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WARNING: T o reduce the ris k of
injury, the user must read and
understand the operator’s manual
before using this product.
Part No. SP6489 Printed in China
SAVE THIS MANUAL FOR
FUTURE REFERENCE
Page 2
Table of Contents
Section Page
Table of Contents ................................2
Safety Instructions For Wood Turning
Lathe ................................................. 2
Safety Symbols ...................................3
Before Using the Lathe .......................3
When Installing Or Moving the Lathe .4
Before Each Use ................................4
To Reduce the Risk of Injury From
Jams, Slips Or Thrown Pieces
(Kickbacks Or Throwbacks) ..............4
Plan Ahead To Protect Your Eyes,
Hands, Face and Ears .......................5
Inspect Your Workpiece .....................6
Whenever Lathe Is Running ...............6
Before Leaving the Lathe ...................6
Motor Specifications and Electrical
Requirements ..................................7
Power Supply and Motor
Specifications ....................................7
General Electrical Connections ..........7
110-120 Volt, 60 Hz. Tool Information 7
Motor Safety Protection ......................8
Wire Sizes ..........................................9
Check Motor Rotation .........................9
Unpacking and Checking Contents ...9
Tools Needed .....................................9
Unpacking ...........................................9
List of Loose Parts ............................10
Assembly ............................................11
Assembling Steel Legset ..................11
Holes Used for Mounting Boards and
Wood Lathe to Leg Set ....................12
Mounting Left Side Table Top ..........12
Mounting Right Side Table Top ........13
Mounting Headstock .........................14
Mounting the Motor ...........................15
Headstock ,Tailstock, and Tool Rest As-
sembly .............................................17
Mounting Rear Foot ..........................19
Spur and Cup Center Installation .....20
Check Spindle Rotation ....................21
Section Page
Adjusting Tailstock ...........................21
Aligning Centers ...............................21
Getting To Know Your Wood Lathe . 22
On-off Switch ....................................23
Speed Chart .....................................23
Basic Lathe Operations ....................24
Changing Speeds .............................24
Spindle Turning ................................25
Faceplate Turning ............................27
Indexing ............................................29
How To Use Your RIDGID
Wood Lathe ....................................30
Woodworking Chisels and How to Use
Them ............................................... 30
The Six Commonly Used Chisel
Types ..............................................30
Selection Of Chisels .........................30
Theory Of Turning ............................30
Using The Gouge .............................33
Using The Skew ...............................33
Using The Parting Tool ....................34
Using The Scraping Chisels .............34
Hand Positions .................................35
Making Standard Cuts ......................36
How To Handle Spindle Turnings .....40
Duplicate Turnings ...........................41
Long Spindles ..................................42
Faceplate & Chuck Turnings ............42
How To Make Fancy Faceplate Turn-
ings ..................................................43
Sanding, Buffing And Polishing ........46
Wiring Diagram ..................................47
Maintenance .......................................47
Maintenance .....................................47
Lubrication ........................................47
Recommended Accessories ............. 47
Troubleshooting ................................ 48
General ............................................48
Motor ................................................ 49
Repair Parts .......................................51
Safety Instructions For Wood Turning Lathe
The purpose of safety symbols is to
attract your attention to possible
dangers. The safety symbols, and the
explanations with them, deserve your
careful attention and understa nding.
The safety warnings do not by
themselves eliminate any danger.
The instructions or warnings they give
are not substitutes for proper accident
prevention measures.
2
Page 3
Safety Instructions For Wood Turning Lathe (continued)
Safety Symbols
DANGER: indicates an imminently
hazardous situation which, if not
avoided, will result in death or serious
injury.
WARNING: indicates a potentially
hazardous situation which, if not
avoided, could result in death or serious injury.
CAUTION: indicates a potentially
hazardous situation which, if not
avoided, may result in minor or moderate injury. It may also be used to
alert against unsafe practices that
may cause property damage.
NOTE: Advises you of information or
instructions vital to the operation or
maintenance of the equipment.
WARNING: Do not attempt to use the tool until you have read thorough-
ly and understand completely the operator’s manual. Pay close attention to
the safety rules, including Dangers, Warnings, and Cautions. If you use this
tool properly and only for what it is intended, you will enjoy years of safe, reliable service.
Before Using the Lathe
WARNING: Some dust crea ted
by power sanding, sawing, grinding, drilling, and othe r construction
activities contains chemicals
known (to the State of California)
to cause cancer, birth defects or
other reproductive harm. Some
examples of these che micals are:
• Lead from lead-based paints,
• Crystalline silica from bricks and
cement and othe r masonry products, and
• Arsenic and chromium from
chemically-treated lumber.
Your risk from these exposures
varies, depending on how often
you do this type of work. To reduce
your exposure to th ese chemicals:
work in a well ventilated area, and
work with approved safety equipment, such as those dust masks
that are specially designed to filter
out microscopic particles.
WARNING: To reduce the risk
of mistakes that coul d cause serious, permanent injur y, do not plug
the lathe in until the following steps
have been satisfactorily completed.
Know and Understand the Lathe
• Completely assemble and align lathe.
• Learn the use and function of the
ON-OFF switch.
• Review and understand all safety
instructions and operating procedures in this manual.
• Review the maintenance methods
for this lathe.
• Find and read the warning label
found on the lathe (shown below).
3
Page 4
Safety Instructions For Wood Turning Lathe (continued)
When Installing Or Moving the Lathe
Reduce the Risk of Dangerous
Environment.
• Use the lathe in a dry, indoor place
protected from rain.
• Keep work area well lighted.
To reduce the risk of injury from
unexpected lathe movement.
• The lathe and motor must be bolted
down to a stand or workbench for
stability.
• To reduce the risk of injury from
electrical shock, make sure your fingers do not touch the plug’s metal
Before Each Use
Inspect your lathe.
• To reduce the risk of injury from
accidental starting, turn the switch
off, unplug the lathe, and remove
the switch key before changing the
speeds, changing the setup, or
adjusting anything.
• Check for alignment of moving
parts, binding of moving parts,
breakage of parts, unit stability, and
any other conditions that may affect
the way the lathe works.
• If any part is missing, bent or broken
in any way, or any electrical part
does not work properly, turn the
lathe off and unplug the lathe.
• Replace damaged, missing or failed
parts before using the lathe again.
• Keep lathe interior free of wood
chips and dust buildup around
motor and switch box.
prongs when plugging in or unplugging the lathe.
• T urn off and unplug the lathe before
moving it to a new area. To reduce
the risk of back injury, get help when
you need to lift or move the lathe.
• Never Stand On Tool. Serious
injury could occur if the tool tips or
you accidentally hit the cutter head.
Do not store anything above or
near the tool where anyone might
stand on the tool to reach them.
• Keep turning tools sharp. Dull or
nicked tools tend to dig in the wood,
causing the tool or workpiece to be
thrown.
• To reduce the risk of injury from
unsafe accessories, use only recommended accessories.
Use Recommended Accessories.
• To avoid injury from unsafe accessories, use only recommended
accessories.
• Consult the operator’s manual for
recommended accessories.
• Follow the instructions that accompany the accessories.
WARNING: Use only accessories recommended for this lathe.
(Using other accessories may be
dangerous.)
To Reduce the Risk of Injury From Jams, Slips Or Thrown Pieces
(Kickbacks Or Throwbacks)
When turning between centers or on
the faceplate:
- Always rough-out "out of round"
workpieces at slow speed.
4
Page 5
- Running the lathe too fast, so that
it vibrates, could cause the workpiece to be thrown from the
lathe... or the turning tool to be
jerked from your hands.
Always revolve the workpiece by
hand before turning on the motor. If
the workpiece strikes the tool rest, it
could split and be thrown out of the
lathe.
Do not allow the t urni ng to ol to "b ite "
into the workpiece w hich could r esult in
splitting of the workpiece or the workpiece being throw n from t he la the .
- Always position the tool rest
above the centerline of the lathe
for spindle turning.
- Do not apply the turning tool to
the workpiece below the level of
the tool rest.
Do not run the lathe in the wrong
direction. This could cause the turning tool to be thrown from your hands.
The lathe must run in a direction so
that the top of the workpiece turns
toward you.
Before attaching a workpiece to the
faceplate:
- Always "rough it out" to as "true
round" as possible. This will minimize vibration while turning.
- Always fasten the workpiece
securely to the face-plate.
- Failure to perform these set-up
operations could cause the workpiece to be thrown from the lathe.
Avoid awkward hand positions, where
a sudden slip could cause a hand to
move into the workpiece.
Remove all loose knots before installing workpiece between centers or on
the faceplate.
Never leave the lathe work are a with
the power on, before the lathe has
come to a complete stop, or without
removing and storing the switch key.
Never operate the lathe with protective cover on the unused shaft end of
the motor removed.
Hang your turning tools on the wall
toward the tailstock end of the lathe.
Do not lay them on the bench so that
you must reach over the revolving
workpiece to select them.
Keep firm hold and control of the turning tool at all times. Special caution
must be exercised when knots or
voids are exposed to the turning tool.
Plan Ahead To Protect Your Eyes, Hands, Face and Ears
Reduce the Risk of Accidental
Starting.
• Make sure switch is “OFF” before
plugging lathe into a power outlet.
Dress for safety.
• Any power tool can throw foreign
objects into the eyes. This can result
in permanent eye damage. Always
wear safety goggles, not glasses
complying with ANSI Z87.1 (or in
Canada CSA Z94.3-99) shown on
package. Everyday eyeglasses
have only impact resistant lenses.
They are not safety glasses. Safety
goggles are available at many local
retail stores. Glasses or goggles not
in compliance with ANSI or CSA
could seriously hurt you when they
break.
• For dusty operations, wear a dust
mask along with safety goggles.
5
Page 6
Safety Instructions For Wood Turning Lathe (continued)
• Do not wear loose clothing, gloves,
neckties or jewelry (rings, wrist
watches). They can get caught and
draw you into moving parts.
• Wear nonslip footwear.
• Tie back long hair.
• Roll long sleeves above the elbow.
• Noise levels vary widely. To reduce
the risk of possible hearing damage,
wear ear plugs or muffs when using
lathe for hours at a time.
Inspect Your Workpiece
• Think Safety.
• Complete hand sanding of the workpiece before removing it from the
faceplace. Never attempt to rem ove
and then remount a faceplate turning to the faceplace for any reason.
It is not always possible to position
the turning on the faceplace exactly
the way it was originally and an outof-balance condition could result.
• Never attempt to remount a
between-centers turning if the original centers in the turning have been
altered or removed. Be positive the
lathe is set at the lowest speed if
remounting a between-centers turning with non-altered original centers.
• Use extra caution in mounting a
between-centers or spind le turni ng
to the faceplate, or a faceplate turning to between- centers, for subsequent operations. Be positive the
lathe is set at the lowest speed
before turning ON.
• Never mount a workpiece that contains any splits, checks, or loose
knots to a faceplate or between centers.
• Do not perform any operation when
hand holding the workpiece. Do not
mount a reamer, milling cutter, wire
wheel, or a drill bit to the headstock
spindle.
Whenever Lathe Is Running
WARNING: Don't allow familiar-
ity (gained from frequent use of
your lathe) to cause a careless
mistake. Always remember that a
careless fraction of a second is
enough to cause a severe injury.
• Before actually turning with the
lathe, let it run for a while. If it makes
an unfamiliar noise or vibrates a lot,
stop immediately. Turn the lathe off.
Unplug th e lath e. Do no t rest art un til
finding and correcting the problem.
Keep Children Away.
• Keep all visitors a safe distance
from the lathe.
• Make sure bystanders are clear of
the lathe and workpiece.
Don’t Force Tool.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
• Feed the tool into the workpiece
only fast enough to let the tool cut
without bogging down or binding.
Before freeing jammed material.
• Turn switch “OFF”.
• Wait for all moving parts to stop.
• Unplug the lathe.
Before Leaving the Lathe
• Turn the lathe off.
• W ait for lathe to come to a complete
stop.
• Unplug the lathe.
• Make workshop child-proof. Lock
the shop. Disconnect master
switches. Re move the yell ow sw itch
key. Store it away from children and
others not qualified to use the tool.
6
Page 7
Motor Specifications and Electrical Requirements
Power Supply and Motor Specifications
This Lathe is designed to use a 1725
RPM motor only. Do not use any motor
that runs faster than 1725 RPM.
WARNING: To reduce the risk
of electrical hazards, fire hazards
or damage to the tool, us e proper
circuit protection. Your tool is wired
at the factory for operation using
the voltage shown. Connect tool to
a power line with the appropriate
voltage and a 15-amp branch circuit. Use a 15-amp time dela y type
fuse or circuit breaker. To reduce
the risk of shock or fire, if power
cord is worn or cut, or damaged in
any way, have it replaced immediately.
General Electrical Connections
The A-C motor used on this tool is a
totally enclosed fan co oled (TEFC) , indu ction nonr eversible t ype, having the following specifications:
Rated H.P 1/2
Voltage 110-120
Amperes 8.0
Hertz (Cycles) 60
Phase Single
RPM 1725
Rotation of Shaft Clockwise
DANGER: To reduce the risk of
electrocution:
1. Use only identical replacement
parts when servicing. Servicing
should be performed by a qualified service technician.
2. Do not use in rain o r where floor
is wet.
This tool is intended for indoor
residential use only.
110-120 Volt, 60 Hz. Tool Information
NOTE: The plug supplied on your tool
may not fit into the outlet y ou are plann ing
to use. Your local electrical code may
require slightly different power cord plug
connections. If these differences exist
refer to and make the prop er a dju stm en ts
per your local code before your tool is
plugged in and turned on.
In the event of a malfunction or breakdown, grounding provides a path of least
resistance for electric current to reduce
WARNING: To prevent electric
shock, do not permit fingers to
touch the terminals of plug when
installing or removing the plug to or
from the outlet.
the risk of electric shock. This tool is
equipped with an electric cord having an
equipment grounding conductor and a
grounding plug, as shown. The plug must
be plugged into a matching outlet that is
properly installed and grounded in accordance with all local codes and ordinances.
Do not modify the plug provided. If it will
not fit the outlet, have the proper outlet
installed by a qualified electrician.
7
Page 8
Motor Specifications and Electrical Requirements (continued)
3-Prong Plug
Improper connection of the equipment
grounding conductor can result in a risk of
electric shock. The conductor with insulation having an outer surface that is green
with or without yellow stripes is the equipment grounding conductor. If repair or
replacemen t o f th e el ect ric cord or pl ug is
necessary, do not connect the equipmentgrounding conductor to a live terminal.
If the grounding instructions are not completely understood, or if you are in doubt
as to whether the tool is properly
grounded check with a qualified electrician or service personnel.
Motor Safety Protection
1. Connect this tool to a power source
with the appropriate voltage for your
model and a 15-a mp branch circuit w ith
a 15-amp time delay fuse or circuit
breaker. Using the wrong siz e fu se can
damage the motor.
2. If the motor won’t start, turn the switch
off immediately and unplug the tool.
Check the spindl e t o m ak e s ure it turn s
freely. If the spindle will not turn make
sure the index pin is desen gaged . (See
“Getting to Know Your Wood Lathe” Index Pin.) If the spindle is free, try to
start the motor again. If the motor still
does not start, refer to the "Motor Troubleshooting Chart."
3. Fuses may "blow" or c ircuit breakers
may trip frequently if:
a. Motor Is Overloaded-Overloading
can occur if you feed too rapidly or
WARNING:
The operation of any power tool can result in foreign objects being
thrown into your eyes, whic h ca n res ult in se vere eye damage. Before
beginning tool operation, always wear safety goggles or safety glasses
with side shields and a full face shield when needed. We recommend
Wide Vision Safety Mask for use over eyeglasses or standard safety
glasses with side shi elds. Always wear eye prot ection which is marked
to comply wtih ANSI Z87.1.
Look for this symbol to point out important safety precautions. It
means attention!!! Your safety is involved.
Properly
Grounded
3-Prong Outlet
Grounding
Prong
WARNING: If not properly
grounded, this tool can cause an
electrical shock, particularly when
used in damp locations, in proximity
to plumbing, or out of doors. If an
electrical shock occurs there is the
potential of a secondary hazard,
such as your hands to hit the cutting
tool.
a. make too many start/stops in a short
time.
b. Line voltages should not be more
than 10% above or below the nameplate voltage. For heavy loads, however, the voltage at motor terminals
must equal the voltage specified for
your model.
4. Most motor troubles may be traced to
loose or incorrect connections, overload, low voltage (such as small size
wire in the supply circuit) or to overly
long supply circuit wire. Always check
the connections, the load and the supply circuit whenever mo tor doesn't wor k
well. Check wire sizes and length with
the Wire Size Chart shown.
8
Page 9
Wire Sizes
NOTE: Make sure the proper extension
cord is used and is in good condition.
The use of any extension cord will cause
some loss of power. To keep this to a minimum and to prevent overheating and
motor burn-out, use the table below to
determine the minimum wire size
(A.W.G.) extension cord. Use only 3 wire
extension cords which have 3-prong
grounding type plugs and 3-pole receptacles which accept the tool’s plug.
Extension Cord
Length
0-25 Ft.
26-50 Ft.
Gauge
(A.W.G)
16
14
Check Motor Rotation
Place the motor on your workbench or on
the floor. Standing clear of the motor
shaft, plug the motor cord into a properly
grounded outlet. Notice the rotati on of the
shaft. As you look directly at the motor
shaft it should be turning in the clockwise
direction. If the motor shaft is
turning clockwise, remove the plug from
the power outlet and continue the assembly procedures. If the motor is turning
counterclockwise, remove the plug from
the power outlet and contact 1-866-539-
1710.
Unpacking and Checking Contents
Tools Needed
Medium Screwdriver
Hammer
Phillips Screwdriver
Adjustable Wrench
Unpacking
WARNING: To reduce the risk
of injury from unexpected starting
or electrical shock, do not plug the
power cord into a s ource of po wer.
This cord must remain unplugged
whenever you are working on the
wood lathe.
1. Unpack all the parts o f y ou r w oo d l athe
NOTE: Make certain all items are
accounted for, before discarding any
packing material.
10mm Wrench
13mm Wrench
14mm Wrench
and lay them out in your work area so
they can be recognized easily. Check
all parts with the parts table and be
careful not to lose any parts during
assembly.
Unpacking and Checking Contents (continued)
List of Loose Parts
Item Description Qty.
A Belt Guard Assembly.......................1
B Headstock .......................................1
C Motor Pulley ....................................1
D V-Belt...............................................1
E Motor...............................................1
F Large Tool Rest...............................1
G Tool Rest Holder/Clamp Support
Assembly.........................................1
H Tailstock and Ram...........................1
J Rear Foot ........................................1
K Tube Or Bed....................................1
L Small Tool Rest...............................1
M Bracket Plate...................................1
N Particle Board Table Top.................2
O Plate-Support (Steel).......................1
P Leg..................................................4
Q End Stiffener...................................2
R Side Stiffener...................................2
S Operator’s Manual ..........................1
T 6" Face Plate................................ ...1
U Live Center......................................1
9
Framing
Square
Page 10
V Loose Parts Package
D
E
A
(Containing the following items):
Bolt, Carriage M6 x 1.0-45 ..............9
Bolt, Carriage M6 x 1.0-65 ..............3
Bolt, Carriage M6 x 1.0-16 ..............4
Lockwasher, Ext. 5mm....................4
Item Description Qty.
Lockwasher, 6mm .........................17
Nut, Hex M6 x 1.0..........................17
Nut, Sq. M8 x 1.25...........................1
Nut, Hex Heavy 3/4-16....................1
Screw, Pan Hd. M8 x 1.25-45..........1
Screw, Pan Hd. M5 x 0.8-12............4
Screw, Hex Head M10 x 1.5-30.......1
Washer, 6.5 x 19 x 1.6...................17
Wrench, Hex “L” 4mm.....................1
Screw Soc. Set M8 x 1.25-8............1
Screw, Pan Head M4 x 0.7-6...........5
B
F
G
C
H
Screw, Hex Head M6 x 1.0-12........1
Cord Clamp.....................................2
W Loose Parts Package
(Containing the foll owing items):
Bolt, Carriage M8 x 1.25-16..........24
Nut, Hex M8 x 1.25.......................24
Washer M8 x 16 x 1.6...................24
Lockwasher, 8mm.........................24
Foot Leveling 3/8"...........................4
Nut Hex Jam 3/8-16........................8
X Loose Parts Package
(Containing the foll owing items):
Spur Center.....................................1
Point Center................................... 1
Switch Key ......................................1
Lever, Assembly..............................4
Shoe, Lock......................................2
J
P
K
Q
R
L
M
S
O
N
V
T
U
10
W
X
Page 11
Assembly
lt
Assembling Steel Legset
1. Find the following legset pieces:
4 Legs
2 Side Stiffeners
2 End Stiffeners
2. From the loose parts package find the
following items:
24 Carriage Bolts M8 x 1.25-16
24 Lockwashers M8 External Type
24 Hex Nuts,M8 x 1.25
24 Washer M8 x 16 x 1.6
8 Hex Nuts, 3/8-16
4 Leveling feet
3. Assemble the legset as shown. The
legs must be assem bled o n the ou tside
of stiffeners and the side stiffener on
top of the end stiffeners. Insert the trus s
head screws through the holes in the
legs, then through the holes in the side
or end stiffeners.
4. Install washer and lockwasher. Screw
on the nuts finger tight.
5. Install leveling feet as shown:
Side Stiffener
End
Stiffener
Leg
Lockwasher
M8 External
Washer
M8 x 16 x 1.6
Carriage Bo
M8 x 1.25-16
Hex Nut
M8 x 1.25
Hex Nut 3/8-16
Leveling
Foot
R
M8x16x1.6
Washer
M8 x 1.25 x 16
Carriage Bolt
3/8-16 Hex Nut
Leveling Foot
r
a
e
M8
Lockwasher
M8 x 1.25
Hex Nut
11
t
n
o
r
F
Page 12
Assembly (continued)
6
p
Holes Used for Mounting Boards and Wood Lathe to Leg Set
G
J
G
J
C
C
H
HH
F
G
E
E
H
A - Board/Side Support
B - Board/Side Support
C - Plate Support/Board/End Support
D - Board/End Support
E - Headstock/Plate Support/Board
Mounting Left Side Table Top
1. Find the following:
1 Particle Board Table Top
1 Plate Support (Steel)
2. From the loose parts package find the
following:
4 M6 x 1.0-45 Carriage Bolts
4 M6 x 1.0 Hex Head Nuts
4 6.5 x 19 x 1.6 Flat Washers
4 6mm Lockwashers
3. Position the table top on the l eft side of
the assembled legset as shown
4. Front Side Stiffeners
Face the front of the legset and count
over from the left one slot and one ho le.
Place a carriage bolt through the table
top (hole A) and the side stiffener. Fasten in place with a washer, lockwasher
and nut. Finger tighten only.
5. Rear Side Stiffener
Face the rear of the legset and count
over from the right two holes. Place a
carriage bolt through the table top (hole
A) and the side stiffener. Fasten in
place with a washer, lockwasher and
nut. Finger tighten only.
6. Locate the two holes marked C in the
steel plate support. Place bolts;
- through these holes
A
A
B
D
D
K
B
F - Bracket Plate/Plate Support/Board/
Side Support
G - Belt Guard/Plate Support
H - Motor/Plate Support
J - Cord Clamps/Plate Support
K - Rear Foot/Board
- through the two holes marked C on
the table top
- and through the holes marked C in
the End Stiffener. Place a washer,
lockwasher and nut on these bolts.
Finger tighten only.
Particle Board T a ble To
Plate Support (Steel)
Carriage Bolt
M6 x 1.0-45
Flat Washer Nut Hex
.5 x 19 x 1.6 M6 x 1.0
Lockwasher
6mm
12
Page 13
Mounting Right Side Table Top
x
0
1. Find the following:
1 Particle Board Table Top
2. From the loose parts package find the
following:
4 M6 x 1.0-45 Carriage Bolts
4 M6 x 1.0 Hex Head Nuts
4 6.5 x 19 x 1.6 Flat Washers
4 6mm Lockwashers
3. The right side mounts similar to the left
except there is no steel support plate .
4. Place carriage bolts, through the table
top holes B and D as shown. Align the
right side table top with the left side
table top so th at the two halves join en d
to end. Fasten in place with a washer,
lockwasher and nut.
5. Securely tighten all nuts and bolts.
6. Adjust leveling feet as follows:
a. Move legset to desired location.
b. With a 14mm wrench loosen b ottom
nut.
c. Back off top nut by hand.
d. Raise or lower foot by adj usting bot-
tom nut using 14mm wrench.
e. Snug top nut against inside of leg by
hand.
f. Tighten all four bottom nuts using
14mm wrench.
Particle Board Table Top
Carriage Bolt
M6 x 1.0-45
Flat Washer Nut He
6.5 x 19 x 1.6 M6 x 1.
Lockwasher
6mm
Left Side
Table Top
Motor Mounting Plate
C
C
A
A
C
C
C
13
B
D
B
Right Side
Table Top
D
Page 14
Assembly (continued)
t
r
6
Mounting Headstock
1.Find the following:
1 Belt Guard Assembly
1 Headstock Assembly
1 Plate Bracket
2.From the loose parts package find the
following:
2 M6 x 1.0-65 Carriage Bolts
1 M6 x 1.0-45 Carriage Bolt
1 M6 x 1.0-12 Hex Head Screw
4 M6 x 1.0 Hex Nuts
4 6.5 x 19 x 1.6 Flat Washers
4 6mm Lockwashers
4 M5 x 0.8-12 Pan Head Screws
4 5mm Lockwasher
3 M4 x 0.7-6 Screw
1 Hex “L” Wrench 4mm
Belt Guard
Assembly
Bracke
Plate
Headstock
Assembly
Carriage Bolt
M6 x 1.0-65
Carriage Bolt
M6 x 1.0-45
3.Remove the headstock pulley using
the 4mm hex “L” wrench.
4.Find four pan head thread cutting
screws and four lockwashers from
among the loose parts. Attach the b elt
guard to the heads to ck as se mb ly w ith
these screws and lockwashers. The
arrows in this illustration show the
location of the screws.
5.Locate the two holes on the left table
top Labeled E (from page 12). Position the headstock assembly so the
mounting holes line-up with the holes
in the table board. Place a M6 x 1.065 carriage bolt, through these holes.
Fasten in place with a washer, lockwasher and nut.
6.Place the bracket plate next to the
headstock as shown. Attach the
bracket plate to the back of the belt
guard assembly with a M6 x 1.0-12
screw, washer, lockwasher and nut.
Hex Head
Screw
M6 x 1.0-12
Lockwasher
6mm
Pan Head Thread Cutting
Pan Screw
M4 x 0.7-6
Nut Hex
M6 x 1.0
Screw M5 x 0.8 x 12
Hex “L” Wrench 4mm
Flat Washe
6.5 x 19 x 1.
Lockwasher
5mm
14
Page 15
7.Locate Hole F on the left table board.
lt
6
y
Attach the bracket plate to the table
top through Hole F. Use an M6 x 1.045 carriage bolt, washer, lockwasher
and nut. Finger tighten.
8.Locate the three holes Labeled G on
the lower edge of the belt guard pla te.
Place a M4 x 0.7-6 screw through
each of these holes and into the
tapped holes in the plate support.
9.Replace pulley on headstock tightening with 4mm hex “L” wrench.
10.Securely tighten all nuts and bolts.
Mounting the Motor
1. Find the following:
1Motor
1 Motor Pulley
2 Cord Clamps
1V-Belt
2. From the loose parts package find the
following:
2 M4 x 0.7-6 Pan Head Screws
4 M6 x 1.0-16 Carriage Bolts
4 6.5 x 19 x 1.6 Flat Washers
4 6mm Lockwashers
4 M6 x 1.0 Hex Nuts
1 M8 x 1.25-8 Socket Set Screw
1 4mm Hex “L” Wrench
G
G
Carriage Bolt
Motor
V-Belt
Washer
.5 x 19 x 1.6
Socket Set Screw
M8 x 1.25-8
Cord Clamp
Pan Screw
M4 x 0.7-6
Lockwasher
G
M6 x 1.0-12
Hex Head Screw
M6 x 1.0-45
6mm
4mm Hex “L”
Motor Pulle
Carriage Bo
M6 x 1.0-16
Hex Nut
M6 x 1.0
Wrench
15
Page 16
Assembly (continued)
Holes for Mounting
t
3. Locate the four holes Lab ele d H on th e
plate support.
4. Place the motor over these holes with
the motor shaft extending through the
belt guard plate. Secure in place with
carriage bolts, washers, lockwashers
and nuts.
5. Plug motor cord into outlet on back of
switch box. Do Not plug m otor cord in to
power source outlet.
6. Route the motor cord and power cord
along side the headstock as shown.
Secure the motor cord and power cord
with two cord clamps and an M4 x 0.7- 6
pan head screw into the tapped holes
Labeled J in the motor mounting pla te.
7. Place the motor pulley on the motor
shaft so that the small diameter is
approximately 1/16" away from the
motor. Tighten the setscrew with the
4mm Hex “L” wrench securely against
the flat spot on the motor shaft.
8. Place the belt on the pulleys and slide
the motor toward the rea r of workben ch
until all the slack is removed from the
belt. Tighten only two of the motor
mounting bolts at this time.
NOTE: 1/2 inch d efl ect ion of belt under
moderate pressure applied between
the two pulleys is adequate tension.
9. Place a straightedge su ch as a pie ce of
wood, metal or framing square across
the pulleys to see if th ey are i n line w ith
each other. If they are, tighten the other
two motor mounting bolts. If they are
not in line, loosen the two motor bolts
and move the motor sideways until pulleys are in line. Tighten the bolts.
NOTE: Changing speeds is accomplished by repositioning the V-Belt on
the pulleys (see Changing Speeds”
section). There needs to be sufficient
slack in the V-belt to allow for this.
Install Carriage Bolts
from the Bottom Up
Straightedge
Motor
Cord
Motor (H)
Plate Bracke
Cord
Clamps
16
Page 17
Headstock, Tailstock, and Tool
l
Tube Assembly
Headstock Spindle
H
Rest Assembly
1. Find the following:
1Tube
1 Large Tool Rest
1Tailstock
2Lever Assembly
1 Hex Head Screw M10 x 1.5-30
1 Tool Rest Holder/Clamp Support
Assembly
2 Brass Shoe Locks
2. Place the tube assembly on your workbench as shown. Always keep the
squared key section straight down.
3. Slide the tube into the he adsto ck un til it
stops against the squared key section.
Insert hex head screw and tighten
securely.
Tube
Lever
Assembly
Tailstock
Tool Rest Holder
Clamp Support
Assembly
Spindle Pulley
Hex Head
Locking Screw
in Rear of
Headstock
Large Too
Rest
Hex Hd Screw
M10 x 1.5-30
Brass Shoe
Lock
Squared Key Section
Tube
4. Slide the tool rest holder /clam p support
assembly onto the middle of the tube.
Assemble lever assembly as shown.
NOTE: Make sure to insert brass shoe
lock before installing lever assembly.
Squared Key
Section
Clamp Support
eadstock
17
End
Brass Shoe
Lock
Assembly
Lever
Page 18
Assembly (continued)
ly
ly
Tailstock
e
5. Set large tool rest in tool rest holder
and install lever assembly as shown.
Tool Rest
Lever
Assemb
6. Slide tailstock assembly onto the tube
and install tailstock ram spindle lock
lever. Be sure that the stud nut
engages the keyed way of the spindle.
7. On the backside of the tailstock,
assemble the locking devices as
shown.
NOTE: Make sure to insert brass shoe
lock before installing lever assembly.
Tailstock Ram
Spindle
Keyed Way
Headstock End
Assembly
Lever
Assembly
Tailstock
Assemb
Lever
Assembly
Brass Sho
Headstock End
Lock
18
Page 19
Mounting Rear Foot
N
r
K
1. Locate the following:
1 M8 x 1.25-45 Pan Head Screw
1 M8 x 1.25 Square Nut
1 M6 x 1.0-65 Carriage Bolt
1 6.5 x 19 x 1.6 Flat Washer
1 6mm Lockwasher
1 M6 x 1.0 Hex Nut
ut Square
M8 x 1.25
Carriage Bolt
M6 x 1.0-65
Pan Head Screw
M8 x 1.25-45
Lockwashe
Flat Washer
6.5 x 19 x 1. 6
6mm
Nut Hex
M6 x 1.0
2. Install the rear foot onto the tube as
shown and tighten rear foot locking
screw. One corner of the nut will rest in
the trough on the foot, th e op po sit e c orner of the nut will rest against the wall
of the tube . Foot will w edge into place
as screw is tightened. This may take
several attempts.
3. Attach the rear foot on the right side
table board, hole labeled K. Secure in
place with bolt, was her , lockwasher and
nut as shown.
Pan Head Screw
Carriage Bolt
M6 x 1.0-65
Rear Foot
Headstock
End
Tube
Assembly
Square
Nut
Lockwasher
M8 x 1.25-45
Hole
Washer
Hex Nut
19
Page 20
Assembly (continued)
Live Center
l
t
Spur and Cup Center Installation
1. From the loose parts package find the
following:
1 3/4-16 Hex Nut
1 Spur Center
1 Live Center
2. Screw nut onto head stoc k spindl e unti l
finger tight.
3. To insert point into spur center, place
center between jaws of a vise. Do not
tighten vice. In sert point into cen ter and
with a hammer and nail gently tap
around the base of the point until
secure.
NOTE: A piece of cloth may be wrapped
around the centers to p rote ct them befo re
inserting into a vise.
Place the wood between the centers and
lock the tailstock.
4. Use a clean cloth to remove any oil or
other debris form the taper of each ce nter and the inside bore on both headstock spindle and tails toc k ram.
5. Insert spur center into head stock spindle and live center into tailstock ram.
NOTE: Do not drive or hammer centers
into spindle or ram as removal may be difficult.
6. T o remove s pur center from spin dle,
place a wrench on the “flats” of the spindle and turn hex nut counterclockwise
until center is ejected. Do not use index
pin to hold pulley.
The spur center may also be removed
with a 3/8" dia. wood dowel or brass
rod through the hole in the spindle of
headstock. Hold the center with one
hand tap the dowel or rod with a hammer.
7. To remove live center insert a 3/8" dia.
wood dowel or brass rod through the
hole in the tailstock ram. Hold the center with one hand and tap the dowel or
rod with a hammer.
Hex Nut 3/4-16
20
Tailstock Ram
1/4" Dia.
Wood Dowe
Foo
Page 21
Check Spindle Rotation
Rotation
t
The lathe spindle must rotate counterclockwise when viewed from the spindle end.
NOTE: Make sure the spur center is
removed from the spindle.
1.Plug the lathe power cord into a properly grounded outlet (See page 7)
2.Stand clear of the lathe spindle and
turn the switch On. Notice the rotati on
of the spindle. If it is Not turning
Counterclockwise contact your
Authorized Service Center immediately before using this tool.
Adjusting Tailstock
The tailstock contains a brass screw
which bears against the "key" on the
underside of the bed. This screw prevents
excessive "looseness" (rocking back and
forth) of the tailstock.
1. Loosen the locknut using a 13mm
wrench.
2. Tighten the screw moderately against
the key, then loosen it about 1/4 turn.
Slide the tailstock along the bed. If it does
not stick or bind in any one spot, tighten
the nut. If it binds or sticks, loosen the
screw only enough so that the tailstock
slides smoothly along the bed.
Tailstock
Lock
Brass
Screw
Locknut Key
Aligning Centers
If the centers are not in line as shown,
make the following adjustments.
1. Make sure the tailstock and ram are
locked when checking for alignment.
2. Loosen the screw in the foot... Tap the
screw to loosen the locknut inside.
3. Using a wrench, loosen the hex head
screw on the back of the headstock.
The screw is located about 1-3/4" from
the bottom.
4. Swing the tailstock so that the two
points are in line... securely tighte n the
hex head screw in the headstock and
the screw in the end of the foot.
M10x1.5-30
Hex Head
Screw
Tailstock
Foo
Screw
Headstock
21
Handwheel
Page 22
Getting To Know Your Wood Lathe
k
k
el
t
14 Faceplate
3 Spindle “Flats”
11 Spur
2 Index Pin
Belt Guard
Center
Tool Rest
Base
Spindle
13 Speed
Chart
1 Belt Guard
Knob
Headstock
Bed
6 Tool Rest
Base Lock
10 On-Off
Switch
1. Belt Guard Knob... Locks the hinged
part of the guard during operation.
2. Index Pin... Engages with the spindle
pulley to determine equal spacing for
cuts for fluting or reeding, or for dividing face plate work. Do Not Use For
Removing Faceplates.
3.Spindle “Flats”... Place a wrench on
these “flats” to remove faceplate or
sanding discs.
4. Tool Rest Bracket Lock... Clamps
the tool rest bracket to the bed.
5. Tool Rest Lock... Clamps the tool
rest to the tool rest base.
6. Tool Rest Base Lock... Clamps the
tool rest base to the tool rest bracket.
7. Handwheel... Adjusts the tailstock
ram.
11 Live Center
Tailstock
Ram
7 Handwhe
Tool Rest
8 Tailstoc
Ram Loc
12 Tailstock
Tool Rest
Bracket
5 Tool Re st
Lock
9 Tai lstock
Lock
4 Too l R est
Bracket Lock
8. Tailstock Ram Lock... Clamps the
ram in the tailstock.
9. Tailstock Lock.. . Clamps the tailstock
to the bed.
10. On-off Switch
11.Spur Center and Live Center... are
used for spindle turning and should
always be in alignment.
12. Tailstock...s upports th e workpiece for
spindle turning.
13. Speed Chart... indicates general recommended speeds for various sizes
of workpieces.
14. Faceplate...The workpiece is se cured
to the faceplate and then screwed
onto the spindle. Used to turn bowls,
plates and other objects.
Foo
22
Page 23
On-off Switch
WARNING: To prevent serious
personal injury, do not connect power cord to electrical outlet in your
shop until you are sure that motor rotation is correct (see page 9).
The On-Off Switch has a locking feature.
This Feature Is Intended To Prevent
Unauthorized And Possible Hazardous Use By Children And Others.
1. Insert key into switch .
NOTE: Key is made of yellow plastic.
2. To turn lathe On... Insert finger under
switch lever and pull End of switch out.
3. To turn lathe Off... Push lever in.
Never leave the lathe unattended until it
has come to a complete stop and you
have removed the switch key.
Do not cycle the motor switch on and off
rapidly , as this m ay caus e the fa ceplate or
sanding disc to loosen. In the event this
should ever occur, stand clear of the face
plate or sanding di sc until i t has com e to a
complete stop... retighten it.
4. To lock switch in Off position... Hold
switch In with one hand, Remove key
with other hand.
Yellow
Switch Key
WARNING: To prevent unautho-
rized use, always lock the switch
“OFF". When lathe is not in us e...
remove key and keep it in a safe
place.
WARNING: In the event of a
power failure (all of your lights go
out) turn switch off... lock it and
remove the key. This will prevent
the risk of injury from the lathe
starting up again when th e power
comes back on.
Speed Chart
(Illustration for reference only.) See chart on belt guard assembly.
WARNING: Always use lowest speed when starting a new workpiece,
using faceplate, or turning between centers to avoid possible injury.
23
Page 24
Basic Lathe Operations
WARNING: For your own safety,
turn switch "OFF" and remove plug
from power source outlet before
making any adjustments.
Changing Speeds
The belt is shown positioned on the second steps from the outside end of the pulleys. This causes the lathe to run 2250
R.P.M.
Suppose you wish to run the lathe slower
- say, 1350 R.P.M. You must shift the belt
inward.
1. Make sure the power cord is removed
from the outlet.
2. With the belt guard raised, rotate the
motor pulley Counterclockwise with
your left hand while pu sh ing on th e belt
with your right hand.
3. Continue to rotate the pulley while
pushing on the belt until it "climbs"
down into the third step of the motor
pulley.
4. Now rotate the spindle pulley Clock-
wise with your right hand while pushin g
on the belt with your left ha nd. Th e be lt
will climb up into the third step of the
spindle pulley.
To make the lathe go faster , the be lt mu st
be shifted outward.
1. Rotate the spindle pulley Clockwise
with your right hand. Pull on the belt
while rotating the pulley until it climbs
down into the next smaller step.
2. Now rotate the motor pulley Counter-
clockwise with your left hand while
pulling on the belt with your right hand.
The belt will climb up into the next
larger step.
Rotate
Counterclockwise
Push on
Belt
Spindle Pulley
Motor
Pulley
24
Page 25
Spindle Turning
WARNING: For your own safety,
turn switch "OFF" and remove
switch key before mounting workpiece in lathe.
If you have never done any amount of
wood turning, we suggest that you practice using the various wood turning tools.
Start with a small spindle turning.
Be sure to study the "How To..." section
of this manual. It explains and illustrates
the correct use of the turning stools, the
positioning of the tool rest and other information to help you gain experience.
1. Carefully inspect and select a piece of
wood 2" x 2" x 12" and always use
wood free of checks, splits, cracks or
knots.
2. Draw diagonal lines on each end to
locate the centers.
3. On one end, make a sawcut approximately 1/16" deep on each diagonal
line. This is for the spur center.
4. The other end is for the live center.
Place the point of an awl on the wood
where the diagonal lines cross and
mark the center point.
5. Tap the spur center into the other en d
of the wood. Mak e sure the spurs are in
the saw cuts. Remove the spur center.
6. Make sure the centers and the hole in
the spindle and the tailstock ram are
clean. Insert the spur center into the
headstock and the live center into the
tailstock. Do not drive them in.
7. Place the wood between the centers
and lock the tailstock.
WARNING: Be sure the spur
center and live center are firmly
seated against the workpiece and
that the tailstock is securely locked
in place to preven t serio us pers onal
injury.
Diagonal Lines
on Both Ends
25
Page 26
Basic Lathe Operations (continued)
8. Move the live center into the wood by
turning the hand whe el. Make sure that
the live center and spur center are
"seated" into the wood in the holes
made in steps 4 and 5 on previous
page. Tighten tailstock ram lock.
9. Adjust the tool rest approximately 1/8"
away from the corn ers o f th e w o od and
1/8" above the center line. Note the
angled position of the tool rest base.
WARNING: For your own safety,
after adjusting the tool rest be sure
and lock the tool rest base and the
tool rest.
Look at the speed chart. Notice that a 2"
square turning up to 18" long should run
at 875 R.P.M. for "roughing". Move the Vbelt on the pulleys to the slowest speed
as outlined under "Cha nging Speeds"
section.
WARNING: For your own safety
rotate the wood by hand to make
sure that the corners do not strike
the tool rest or anything else before
turning the lathe "ON". Always be
sure the workpiece is properly
mounted and the lathe is set at the
proper speed (RPM).
Tool Rest
1/8"
1/8"
Wood
26
Page 27
Faceplate Turning
WARNING: For your own safety,
turn switch “OFF” and remove
switch key before mounting workpiece in lathe.
Before installing or using the faceplate or
bowl turning tool rest, read and follow the
safety and operating instructions contained in the operator’s manual furnished
with your wood turning lathe.
1.Do not use wood that i s ch ec ke d, sp lit
or contains a knot because it could
come apart while turning and cause
an injury.
2.If the workpiece is glued together
(laminated) make sure that you follow
recognized gluing procedures in making the joints so that they are sound,
otherwise the workpiece could come
apart and cause an injury.
3.Make sure that the surface of the
workpiece to which the faceplate is
attached, is as flat as the faceplate.
Otherwise the workpiece could
change position while turning and
cause excessive vibration. The workpiece can be trued up (made flat) by
hand planeing or using a belt sander.
4.Before attaching a workpiece to the
faceplate, always cut i t as “true roun d”
as possible, on the band saw, or cut
off the corners. This will minimize
vibration while rough turning.
5.To install faceplate on wood lathe
remove the 3/4"-16 hex nut from the
lathe spindle before mounting faceplate to the lathe spindle. This is necessary in order to provide full thread
engagement of faceplate to spindle.
Put a small amount of grease on the
spindle, this will make removal of the
faceplate easier.
27
Page 28
Basic Lathe Operations (continued)
6.Use the faceplate (6-inch) for turn ings
8 to 12 inches in diameter and 4
inches thick. Attach to workpiece
using 6 #14 flathea d woo ds cre ws, not
less than 1 inch long.
IMPORTANT: Do not use smaller size
screws or sheet rock screws as they are
too brittle and could break, causing the
workpiece to come loose and possibly
causing injury.
7. Always rotate the workpiece by hand
before turning on the motor to make
sure that it does not strike the tool
rest, or any other part of the lathe.
8. Before turning on the motor, check
the belt. Make sure it is positioned to
run the lathe at the slowest speed.
Refer to your operator’s manual for
instructions on making this adjustment.
9. Stand to left of the workpiece with
access to switch when turning the
motor “on”. If the workpiece is loose
or if there is excessive vibration, turn
the motor off immediately and
determine and correct the cause.
10. Set speed as indicated by speed
chart found on lathe and in operator’s
manual, for roughing or finish turning
as applicable.
11. Complete hand sanding of the workpiece before removing it from the
faceplate. Never attempt to remove
and then remount a faceplate turning
to the faceplate for any reason. It is
not always possible to position the
turning on the faceplate exactly the
way it was originally and an out-ofbalance condition could result.
12. When removing the faceplate from
the spindl e do not engage the index
pin to hold the spindle, because it
could break. Position a wrench on the
“flats” of the spindle. Rotate the faceplate counterclockwise to remove
faceplate.
28
Page 29
Indexing
The spindle pulley contains 36 equally
spaced holes. T he index pin engages with
these holes to keep the spindle from turning while you put a mark on the workpiece.
For example: To locate the position of six
spokes in a wheel:
1. Pull the index pin outward an d turn it so
that the small cross pin slips into the
slot. This will allow the index pin to
engage in one of the holes in th e pulley
and prevent the spindle from turning.
2. Adjust the tool rest approximat ely at the
centerline and make a mark.
3. Pull out the index pin and slowly rotate
the workpiece until the pin slides into
the next hole in the pulley.
4. Do this six times and put the next mark
on the workpiece. The two marks will
be spaced 60° apart. Continue this
operation until six spokes are marked
60° apart.
5. Spindle turnings can be divided in the
same manner.
29
Page 30
How To Use Your RIDGID Wood Lathe
e
l
Woodworking Chisels and How to Use Them
Gouge Skew Parting Tool Spear Point Flat Nose Round Nos
The Six Commonly Used Chisel Types
Selection Of Chisels
Better chisels have handles approximately 10-in. long, to provide plenty of
grip and leverage. Sharp tools are essential for clean, easy work... buy tools that
will take and hold keen edges.
Theory Of Turning
The Two Classes of Chisels
These are: 1) Chisels intended primarily
for cutting, and 2) chisels used only for
scraping. The cutting chisels are the
gouge, skew and parting tool. These are
the most used. They are commonly
Cutting and Scraping
To cut, the chisel is held so that the s ha rp
edge actually digs into the revolving work
to peel off shavings. To scrape, the chisel
is held at a right angle to the work surface, and removes fine particles instead
of shavings. Man y o pe rati ons re qui re that
the cutting chisels be used for scraping;
but scraping chisels are practically never
used for cutting. Scraping dulls a chisel
much faster, especially the razor sharp
cutting chisels. Cutting is faster than
scraping and produces a smoother finish
which requires less sanding. However, it
is far more difficult to master . Scra ping, on
the other hand, is far more precise and
easier to control.
sharpened to a razor edge by honing on
both sides. The scraping chisels are the
flatnose, round nose and spear point.
These are not honed on the flat sides the wire edges produced by grinding are
left on to aid in the scraping process.
Cutting Chisel
Cutting Scraping
* Means Center Line of the
C
workpiece
Scraping Chise
30
Page 31
When You Can Cut, and When You
12 3 4
-
l
.
Must Scrape
There are two different approaches to the
work when turning. One approach is
toward a circumference of the workpiece
(for example, turning down the outer surface of a cylinder or the inn er wa ll of a hollow round box). In this approach, the
surface being turned travels under the
chisel edge like an endless belt. The second approach is toward the diameter of a
workpiece (as when turning the face of a
faceplate turning, or the side of a large
shoulder on a spindle turning). In this
approach the surface b eing turned rot ates
like a disc under the chisel edge. Sometimes the approach will be a combination
of both.
Diameter
Approach
Circumference
Approach
Circumference
Approach
Steady
Thrust
Against
Hands
Handle
Kicked Up
Rest too distant-chisel too
high, point too far from rest.
Either a cutting or scraping action can be
used when the approach is toward a circumference - the shaving is removed like
a peeling from a potato. Scraping, only,
can be used w hen t he ap proach is towa rd
a diameter. The reason is obvious when
you consider that faceplate turning practically alway s requires re moval of wood
across the grain. Wood does not peel
easily across the grain, and attempts to
use cutting methods will likely result in
damage to the work and throwing of the
chisel by the work.
It follows that a cutting action is used for
the general run of spindle turning operations...while the major part of a faceplate
turning is done by the scraping method.
When a combination approach is to be
used, you will have to judg e, by the feel of
Force
Bevel
against
work
Chisel
cutting
properly
5
No support
Chatter
.
Rest too low;
chisel too horizontal.
.
bevel
point
digging
in.
Large
Diameter
for
Kickback
6
too low.
Chisel
too high.
Small
Diameter
Kickback
Rest
scraping. Never try to cut when it
becomes difficult to hold the chisel
against the roughness of the wood grain.
How to Position Tool Rest for Circumference Cutting
When cutting, the object is to pierce the
outer skin of wood to a certain desired
depth, then to hold the chisel steady, with
the bevel edge parallel to the work circumference, so that it will peel off a shaving at this desired depth. The only sure
method of holding the chisel steady is to
rest the bevel again st t he work, as shown
in sketch 1. When the tool rest is at the
proper height (sketch 1), th e chisel can be
held with the bevel pressed against the
work, and the tool rest will act as a fulcrum to support the chisel against the
downward force of the revolving work.
the work, when to stop cutting and start
Rest too
high
chise
too high
on work
7
31
Page 32
How To Use Your RIDGID Wood Lathe (continued)
9
11 12
If the rest is placed too low, so that the
chisel is held with the bevel out from the
work (sketch 2), the cutting edge will continue to dig deeper into t he work. It will dig
in until the "bite" becomes so deep that
your hands have difficulty holding the
chisel - then the improperly supported
chisel will begin to bounce, or chatter,
against the workpiece.
If the rest is placed too low, the chisel
must be held extremely high to position
the bevel against the work (sketch 3).
Then the rest loses most of its value as a
fulcrum, and the down ward force of the
revolving workpiece tends to kick the
chisel back out of your hands.
If the rest is placed too high (sketch 4)
and the chisel is correctly positioned for
How to Position Tool Rest for Circumference Scraping
In scraping operatio ns, the tool rest position is not as critical as it is for cutting
operations. The chisel generally is held
horizontally, though it can be held at an
angle to reach into tight places. Considering that the wire edge of the chisel does
the scraping, sk etc hes 9 a nd 10 s ho w th e
results of too low o r too high a posi tion for
the rest; and sketch 8 shows the chisel
action with the rest correctly positioned .
cutting, it strikes the workpiece near the
top where the directio n of force ex erted by
the workpiece is nearly horizontal - and
kickback will again result.
If the rest is placed too far out from the
work surface (sketch 5) - then, when correctly held, the chisel is agai n too high on
the work. Also, you have less leverage on
your side of the tool rest - and it is even
more difficult to hold the chisel.
With large diameter work (sketc h 6), the
tool rest can be above the workpiece centerline, and somewhat out from the work
surface. With small diameter work (ske tch
7), the rest should be lowered almost to
the centerline, and should not be far from
the work surface. As work grows smaller,
the rest should be repositioned.
Edge
Digging
In
Correct
10
No
Stock
Removed
How to Position Chisel and Rest for Diameter Scraping
When scraping on the diameter, that portion of surface to the right of center is
moving upward (sketch 11). If chisel is
placed in this area, it will simply be carried
up off the rest and out of your hands. All
diameter approach operations must be
done at the left of center.
Three different chisel contact points are
shown in sketch 12. It will be noted that,
when chisel is above the workpiece center, or below it, the work surface sweeps
past the chisel edge at an angle and
tends to carry the chisel in one direction
or the other alon g t he res t. O n ly w he n t he
chisel contacts the work on the centerline
does the work surface pass squarely
under the chisel edge. This, then, is the
position in which it is easiest to hold the
chisel steady. To obtain this position,
place the r est approximately 1/8-inch
(thickness of chisel) below center.
1/8"
Rest
32
Face
Edge
Page 33
Using The Gouge
Cutting Edge
Path of
Three gouges, the 1/4-, 1/2- and 3/4-in.
sizes, are ample for general homeshop
turning; but other sizes from 1/8- to 2-in.
can be purchased.
The chief use of the gouge is for rough
circumference cutting of raw stock down
to a cylinder of working size. It is the best
tool to use for rapid cutting away of large
areas of the workpiece; but when so used
does not produce a smooth surface. With
practice, it can be used for cutting coves
and the shaping of long cuts - is also useful for scraping.
When used for cutting, the gouge is
always held with the conv ex side dow n. It
should be rolled approximately 30° to 45°
in the direction in which it is being
advanced along the rest; and the cutting
edge should be a little in advance of the
handle.
Using The Skew
Two skews, the 1/2- and 1-in. sizes, are
all that are needed for genera l us e. Ot her
sizes are available. This tool is nearly
always used to make finish cuts, to cut
vees and beads, an d to square s houlders.
Properly used, it produces the best finish
that can be obtained with a chisel. It
should be used but little for scraping, as
this quickly dulls it. For finish cutting, the
skew is held with the cutting edge considerably in advance of the handle, bevel
side down. Keep the base of the bevel
against the work. Both the toe and the
heel of the skew can be used for taking
light cuts; but do not penetrate the wood
too deeply without cutting clearances, as
there is danger of burning the tip of the
tool.
Pull
Back
Support
Using Toe
Advanced
Direction
Swing
Tool
No
of cut
No
Edge
does
not
cut
Wrong
Right
cut
Yes
Using Heel
33
Page 34
How To Use Your RIDGID Wood Lathe (continued)
Using The Parting Tool
The parting tool has just one primary purpose: to cut straight into the work piece as
deep as desired, or all the way through to
make a cut-off. It is therefore a very narrow tool - 1/8-in. wide - and is shaped to
cut its own clear ance so tha t the edge wil l
not be burned. When used for scraping,
however , i t should be backe d of f regularl y
to prevent overheating.
Unlike the gouge and skew, the parting
tool is seldom held with the bevel against
the work. As the am ount of stock removed
is small, a support for t he be vel is not necessary.
The tool is simply fed into the work at an
angle (for cutting), or pointed at the workpiece center (for scraping). It can be held
easily in one hand.
Using The Scraping Chisels
A 1/2-in. wide spear point chi se l, a 1/2- in.
wide round nose chisel, and a 1 -in. wide
flatnose chisel complete the list of tools
ordinarily used by home craftsmen. Each
of these scr aping chise ls can be purchased in various other sizes for specia l
purposes. All are very useful for diameter
scraping operations and for circumference scraping when cutting methods can not be employed. The spear point is use d
for fine scraping and delicate operations,
such as the forming of beads, parallel
grooves and shallow vees. Edges and
bowl contours can be rounded with the
round nose chis el. Any fla t surface ca n be
scraped with the flatnose chisel.
Cutting Scraping
Spear
Point
Round
Nose
Flat
Nose
34
Page 35
Hand Positions
Roughing Off
g
WARNING: Keep firm hold and
control of the turning tool at all
times. Avoid awkward hand positions where a sudden slip could
cause a hand to move into the workpiece.
In handling all of the chisels the handle
hand takes a natural position, being
nearer or farther from the end depending
upon the amount of leverage required.
The position of th e t ool re st hand is a matter of individual liking; but there are two
generally accepted positions, each best
for certain types of operations.
Roughing-off and other heavy work
requires a firm grip and solid positioning
of the chisel against the rest. This is best
obtained by the tool-rest hand position
illustrated. The wrist is dropped down so
that the heel of the hand below the little
finger acts as a sliding guide against the
rest. The handle hand controls chisel
position.
Finish cutting requires more control, with
less force - and is better done with the
palm of the tool-rest hand turned up. The
wrist is still held down, and the si de of the
index finger acts as a guide along the
rest. In this position, control of the chisel
is shared by both hands, th e fingers of the
tool-rest hand being free to assist in positioning the tool.
The first and second posit ions are equal ly
good for scraping or cutting operations.
Finish Cuttin
35
Page 36
How to Use Your RIDGID Wood Lathe (continued)
s
Checking
Making Standard Cuts
The Roughing-off Cut
Reducing a square or odd-shaped workpiece down to a cylinder of approximate
size for finish turning is called “Roughingoff”. Faceplate turning and large diameter
spindles should first be partly reduced by
sawing but small spindles are easily turned
down entirely with the large (3/4-in.) gouge.
Start the first cut abo ut 2-in . from ta ilstock
end - then run it toward the tailstock and
off the end of the workpiece. Next, start
another cut 2-in. nearer the headstock and run it, also, toward tailstock, to merge
with first cut. Continue in this manne r until
2- to 4-in. from the headstock end, then
reverse the direction of tool travel and
work one or two cuts in succession
toward the headstock, and off this end of
the workpiece. NOTE: Never start a cut
directly at the end -if the chisel catches
the end, it will damage the workpiece.
Never take long cuts wh ile corner s remain
on the work, as this tends to tear long sl ivers from the corners.
The first series of cuts should not be too
deep. It is better to partially reduce the
work to a cylinder all a long its length ; then
start a second series of cuts to complete
reducing it to a cylinder. Once a cylinder
Rough-cutting To Size
The roughing-off cut can be made to
accurately size the cylinder to a given
diameter.
Making Sizing Cuts
Sizing cuts are useful to establish approximate finish-size diameters at various
points along a workpiece. The work can
then be turned down to the diameters
indicated - and be ready for finishing.
Diameters for sizing cuts should be
planned to be about 1/8-in. greater than
the desired finish diameters.
A sizing cut is made with the parting tool.
Cut “in” with the parting tool. Turn the
has been formed, step lathe up to t he next
faster speed. Further reductions in size
can now be carried out by cutting as
deeply as desired at any spot along the
work. At this stage, long cuts, from the
center off either end, can also be taken.
Roughing-off generally is continued until
the cylinder is approximately 1/8-in larger
than the desired finish size. Roundness
can be tested by laying the gouge on top
of the work - it will not ride up and down
when cylinder is perfectly round.
First Cuts
Another method is to make a number of
sizing cuts at intervals along the work,
then use the gouge to reduce the whole
cylinder down to the diam eter indica ted by
these cuts.
lathe off and allow to come to a complete
stop. Check the depth of cut with a caliper. Repeat as necessary..
Sizing Cut
Diameter
Testing Roundnes
36
Page 37
Smoothing A Cylinder
W
The final 1/8-in. can be removed in two
ways. Either use the 1 -in. skew, working
from center toward both ends and taking
lighter and lighter cuts until finished.
Cutting A Shoulder
A shoulder can be the side of a square
portion left in the workpiece, the side of a
turned section, or the end of the workpiece. Most shoulders are perpendicular
to work axis; but a shoul der can be at any
angle desired.
First, mark position of the shoulder wi th a
pencil held to the revolving workpiece.
Then make a sizing cut with the parting
tool, placing this cut ab out 1/16-in. outsid e
the shoulder positio n, and cutting to within
about l/8-in. of the depth desired for the
area outside of the shoulde r . If sh oulder is
shallow, the toe of the skew can be used
to make the sizing cut; but do not go in
deeper than l/8-in. with the skew unless
wider and wider vees are cut to provide
clearance for this tool.
Use the gouge to remove an y waste stock
outside of shoulder-and smooth this section, up to within l/8-in.of the shoulder, in
usual manner. Finishing of the shoulder,
unless it is more than 1 -in. high, is best
done with the 1/2-in. skew. First, toe of
skew is used to remove thin shavings
from the side of the shoul der - dow n to fin ish size. Hold ske w so that bo ttom edge of
bevel next to shoulder will be very nearly
parallel to side of shoulder, but with cutting edge turned away at the top so that
only the extreme toe will do the cutting. If
cutting edge is flat against shoulder, the
chisel will run. Start with handle low, and
raise handle to advance to e into the work .
Cut down to finished diameter of outside
area; then clean out the corner by
advancing heel of the skew into it along
the surface of the outside area. Tilt the
cutting edge, with handle raised up, so
that only the extreme heel does this cutting.
If shoulder is at end of work, the process
is called squaring the end. In this case,
reduce outer portion to a diameter about
1/4-in. larger than tool center diameter,
then later saw off the waste stock.
Parting
Tool
Pencil
Mark
Pencil
Mark
rong Right
Bevel
Skew
37
Page 38
How to Use Your RIDGID Wood Lathe (continued)
t
k
Cutting Vees
Vee g rooves c an be cu t with e ither the toe
or heel of the skew. When the toe is used,
the cutting actio n is exactly t he same as in
trimming a shoulder - except that the
skew is tilted to cut at the required bevel.
Light cuts should be taken on first one
side then the other, gradually enlarging
the vee to the required depth and width.
When the heel is used, the skew is
rotated down into the work, usin g the res t
as a pivot. Otherwise, cutting position and
sequence of cuts is the same. As when
using the toe, it is important that cutting
Cutting Beads
This requires consi de rabl e pra cti ce , Firs t,
make pencil lines to locate the tops (highest points) of two or more adjoining
beads. Then make a vee groove at the
exact center between two lines - and
down to the desired depth of the separation between the beads. Be careful not to
make the groove too wide or you will
remove portions of the desired beads.
The sides of the two adjoining beads are
now cut with the heel of the skew - preferably 1/2-in. size, unless beads are quite
large. Place skew at right angles with the
work axis, flat against surface and well up
near the top. The extreme hee l sho ul d be
just inside the pencil line that marks the
top of the bead. Now draw skew straight
back while raising handle slowly - until
edge of the heel at the pe ncil l ine s tarts to
cut.As edge begins to c ut, roll skew in the
direction of the vee - so th at the ex act po rtion of the edge which started cutting will
travel in a 90° arc down to bottom of the
vee. Upon reach ing bott om of t he vee, the
skew should be on edge. Reverse the
movements to cut side of the adjacent
bead.
be done only by extreme end of cutting
edge.
If deep vees are planned, it is quicker to
start them by making a sizing cut at the
center of each vee. Vees can also be
scraped with the spear point chisel or a
three-sided file.
It is important that only the extreme heel
should do the cutting. This mea ns that th e
bottom edge of the bevel next to the vee
must at all times be tangent to the arc of
the bead being formed.
Easier beads can be shaped with the
spear point chisel. Use pencil marks and
sizing cuts as before. Push the chisel
straight into each cut and rot ate it horizontally to round off the adjacent edges. It
must be moved slightly in the direction of
rotation at the same time, to keep the
point from digging into the adjacent bead.
Start
Second
Position
Finish
Swing
Tool
Cutting
Beads
Bevel
Tangen
To Wor
38
Page 39
Cutting Coves (Concaves)
This is the most difficult single cut to master - but one of the most im portant in g ood
wood turning. First, use pencil marks to
indicate the edges. Then, rough it out - to
within about 1/8-in. of the desired finish
surface - by scraping with the gouge or
round nose chisel . If th e cove is to be ve ry
wide, sizing cuts can be made to plot the
roughing out. Once it is roughed out, the
cove can be finished in two cuts - one
from each side to the bottom center.
At the start of either cut, gouge is held
with handle high and the two sides of
blade held between the thumb and forefinger of tool-rest hand, just behind the
bevel.Position the fi ng ers ready to roll the
blade into cove. Hold blade so that bevel
is at a 90° angle to the work axis, with
point touching the pencil line and pointed
into work axis.
From this start, depress point slightly to
start cut, then continue to move point
down in an arc toward the bottom center
of cove-at the same time ro lling c hisel uni formly so that, at the end of the cut, it will
be flat at bottom of the cove. The object is
to keep the extreme point of gouge doing
the cutting from start to finish. Reverse
movements to cut the opposite side.
Coves also can be scraped to finish,
using the round nose chis el or a ra ttail fi le
- but these methods do not generally produce perfectly curved coves.
Pencil Marks
1
234
Cutting Coves
Making Long Convex Cuts
First turn work down to approximate size,
using sizing cuts (as required) to determine various diameters. Finish cut can
then be made with either skew or gouge.
If the skew is used, the principles of the
operation are the same as those
employed in cutting a bead - except that
curve is longer and may be irregular. Use
the extreme heel throughout - start at
longer end of curve (if curve is irregular)
and progress toward steeper end. If
gouge is used, make cut in the same
direction. Start with the handle well back
of point-swinging han dle in the direction of
tool travel to overtake the point, if necessary, when the steep part of the curve is
reached. Object is to keep extreme point
during the cutting throughout - with bevel
as tangent to curve as possible.
Chisel Inclined
in Direction of Cut
39
Page 40
How to Use Your RIDGID Wood Lathe (continued)
Making Long Taper Cuts
Long taper cuts are made like long convex cuts, with the skew or gouge. However, the angle between the cutting edge
and handle is kept constant during the
entire cut. The handle is not swung
around. Always cut downhill. Do not cut
too deeply at the center of the taper.
How To Handle Spindle Turnings
Plotting The Shape
Once the basic cuts have been mastered,
you are ready to turn out finished work.
The first step is to prepare a plan for the
proposed turning. This can be laid out on
a suitable sheet of paper - and should be
to full size. Next, pre pare the turnin g stock
by squaring it up to the size of the largest
square or round section in your plan. The
stock can be cut to the exa ct leng th of the
proposed turning; but, in most cases, it is
best to leave the stock a little long at one
or both ends to allow for trimming.
Mount the stock in the lathe, and rough it
off to a maximum size cylinder. Now
project your plan onto the turning by
marking the various critical dimensions
along the length of the spindle in pencil.
These dimensions c an be lai d out with an
ordinary ruler - or by using a template.
Make the pencil marks about 1/2-in. long they will then be visible when the work is
revolved under power, and can be quickly
traced around the spindle by touching
each line with the pencil.
After marking, use the parting tool to
make sizing cuts at all of the important
shoulders. When learning, you will find it
best to make many sizing cuts to accurately plot the various diameters; but
experienced workers can do with a few
such cuts at the i mportant shou lders. Plan
each sizing cut so that it is in waste stock;
and make each deep enough so that
there will be just enough wood left under
the cut for the finish ing pro cess. O nce th e
sizing cuts have been run in, rough-out
the excess wood with a gouge - then proceed with the finishing process by making
the various types of cuts required.
1-5/8
2-1/4
1-1/4
2
1-1/3
2-3/4 2-1/4 3-5/8
NOTE: All Measurements In Inches
1-9/16
2-3/16
14-1/4
Sizing Cuts
40
1-5/8
1-7/8
1-3/8
1-11/16
1
1-1/2
Tenon
Page 41
Duplicate Turnings
U
Identical turnings require great accuracy
when plotting the work and doing the various cuts. Many methods have been
devised to aid in perfecting the work.
Use of Patterns
Professional workers generally use a pattern, or layout board. This is a thin piece
of wood or cardboard on which is drawn a
full- size half section of the turning. The
contour of the finished surface is drawn
first; then the diameters at various critical
points are drawn to scale as vertical lines
intersecting the contour line. By placing
the pattern against the roughed-off cylinder, you can quickly mark the various
points of the critical diameters. To make
each sizing cut, use outside calipers and
set these by actually measuring the length
of the vertical line on the pattern which
represents the diameter desired. Then
make the sizing cut, down to the proper
diameter by using the calipers to determine when the cut is finished. After making the sizing cuts, hang the pattern
behind the lathe where it will serve as a
guide for completion of the workpiece.
Using a Template and a Diameter
Board
When many identical turnings are to be
produced, it is a convenience to have a
prepared template. This can be made of
thin wood or cardboard - and is cut on a
band saw or scroll saw to have the exact
contour of the finished turning. The number one finished turning can also be used
as a template. Attach the template to a
board; then mount the board behind the
lathe, on hinges, so that the tem pl ate can
be moved down to touch the workpiece
and allow you to closely observe progress
of your work.
If a great many turnings are being produced, a diameter board will save the
time used for resetting calipers. This is
simply a thin board along the edge of
which a number of sem ic irc ul ar c uts have
been prepared to represen t all th e variou s
sing a Template Using a
Diameter Board
caliper settings required for measuring
the sizing cuts. Each semicircular cut is
held against the workpiece instead of
using the calipers.
41
Page 42
How to Use Your RIDGID Wood Lathe (continued)
Spear
Long Spindles
A long turning ca n be worked in short sec tions, with joints arranged to be at shoulders where they will not be noticed.
Long thin work that is likely to whip while
turning should be su pported at one or t wo
places by a backstick. This is easy to
make. A simple one consists of a short
length of wood mounted vertically in an
extra tool rest, and notched so that it can
be used to support the spindle from
behind.
Faceplate & Chuck Turnings
Planning The Work
Make a layout first, to provide a visual pattern to follow while working the turning.
Patterns can be laid out in the same manner as spindle patterns - or te mp lat es can
be made which can be held against the
work for visual comparison. Circles to
locate the various critical points (at which
the contours of the faceplate take distinct
form) can be quickly scribed on the rotating work by using the dividers.
Planning Various Cuts
The circumference of a faceplate turning
is roughed-off and finished in the same
manner that a spindle is worked. Practically all of the balance of the operations,
however, are done by using scraping
methods. A few of the standard contours
which must often be turned are illustrated
in the accompanying sketch - which also
shows the proper chisels for shaping
these contours. Any roug hing-out to depth
that must be done is generally accomplished with the gouge held in the scraping position.
Skew
Round
Nose
Planning
Various Cuts
Round Nose
Checking Profile
with Cardboard
Template
Square
Nose
Chisel
42
Spear-Point
Chisel
Measuring
Depth
Page 43
Deep Recesses
The first step is to remove as much wood
as possible by boring into the center with
the largest wood bit av ailable. This can be
accomplished as illus trate d. Be caref ul to
measure in advance the depth to which
drill can be allowed to go.
Now remove the bulk of the waste (to
rough-out the desired re cess) by scra ping
with the roundnose chisel or the gouge.
Remove up to within 1/8-in. of finished
size in this manner. Finish off the inside
circumference by scraping with the spearpoint chisel or skew. Smooth the bottom
of the recess by scraping it flat with the
flatnose chisel.
Proper support must be provided at all
times for the scraping chisels. Several
tool rest positions are shown in the
accompanying illus trati ons . Alway s
endeavor to position the part of the rest
that supports the tool as close to the
working surface as possible.
How To Make Fancy Faceplate Turnings
Preparing A Plug Chuck
A plug chuck is an auxiliary wood chuck
mounted onto a fa cep la te. The chuck can
be any size in diameter - should be abo ut
2-1/2- in. thick for sta bility - and shou ld be
provided w ith a 3/4- or 7/8-in. ho le in the
center for receiving a tenon turned at the
end of the workpiece. Once made, such
chucks are permanent useful fixtur es for
turning balls, goblets, etc. In use, the
wood stock for turning is turned between
centers to produce a tenon at one end
which will be a driv in g fit in the hole of the
chuck. When mounted in the chuck, the
workpiece is substantially supported for
any faceplate type of turning.
43
Page 44
How To Use Your RIDGID Wood Lathe (continued)
Turning Cylinders
Stock for cylinders sh ould be mounted on
the screw center or a small fa ceplate. The
tailstock can be bro ught up to support the
work while the circumference is being
turned and finished. Afterwards, the tailstock is backed off and the outer end of
the cylinder is recessed, using methods
already described for making deep
recesses.
After making a recess at least 1/2 of the
way through the workpiece, and finishing
this on the inside, remove the workpiece
from the lathe. Now mount a short length
of softwood stock on the screw c enter and
Rechucking
Rechucking is the general term used to
describe any additional work mounting
that is necessary to complete a turning
project. The method of working cylin ders,
and the use of a plug chuck as already
described, are typical examples. Another
good example is th e rechucking of a bow l .
The work is first mounted on a wood
backing block secured to the large faceplate, and is turned in the usual manner
all except the back side (which is against
the mounting block). It is then removed
from the mounting block. An auxiliary
chuck of softwood is now made in the
same manner that the cylinder chuck is
turn this down to form a dowel tha t will be
a tight press (not driving) fit inside the
recessed end of the cylinder. Mount the
cylinder on this wooden chuck, and
recess the unworked end deep en ough to
form a perfect hole through the entire cylinder.
made. This chuck must have a turned
recess properly sized to accommodate
the rim of the bowl in a tight press fit.
When the bowl is mounted in this chuck,
the bottom can be cleane d of f an d slig htly
recessed to complete the desired contours.
44
Page 45
Turning A Ring
123 4
Lid
One method of turning a ri ng requires a
spindle chuck. The work stock is first
mounted to a backing block held by the
large faceplate, a nd is turned to shape on
the outer s ide. The ins ide diameter of the
ring is also shap ed , all the way through to
the backing block. The work is then
removed from the backing block. A spindle chuck is now prep ared so that it will b e
a tight pres s fit inside the ring, and the
ring is reversed and mounted on this
chuck. Thus mounted, the remain ing contours can be turned to shape.
Another method of turning a ring makes
use of a recessed chuck. The work stock
is mounted on a screw center and one
half of the ring is formed; but the ring is
not cut away from its center. The stock is
then removed, and a recessed chuck mounted on the large faceplate - is prepared to receive the ring in a tight press
fit. After being chucked, the remaining
face of the ring can be turned to the
proper contour, thus cutting away the cen ter portion. In work of this type take constant measurement s - o r b ette r s til l, us e a
template - to guard against over or under
cutting.
Turned Boxes
Turned boxes involve deep recessing
together with a special system of working
the lid and body of the box together as
one unit. The inside of the lid is turned
first. Next, t he insi de of t he body is tu rned.
A careful check must be made when turning the lip of the body portion so that the
lid will be a tight press fit. The lid is then
pressed onto the body and the outer circumference and face of the lid, together
with the outer circum ference of the body,
are turned all at one time. This insures
accurate matching of the two piece s. After
the work is complete, the tigh t fit of the lid
can be relieved by sanding the lip of the
body.
Lids
Backing Block
Face Plate
45
Body
Page 46
How to Use Your RIDGID Wood Lathe (continued)
r
Sanding, Buffing And Polishing
Using The Lathe To Sand Turnings
Turnings can be sanded with the lathe
running. A large sheet of sandpaper is
useful for smoothing cylinders. All other
sanding operations are done with a narrow strip of abrasive paper. The application of the sandpaper strip is shown in the
illustrations. Care must be exercised in
order to prevent dubbing the corners of
beads, shoulders, etc.
WARNING: Remove tool rest
when sanding to prevent serious
personal injury.
Sandpape
Coves
Wood
Fibers
Sandpaper
46
Page 47
Wiring Diagram
White White
Motor
Outlet
Switch
Green
Black
Maintenance
Maintenance
WARNING: For your own safety,
turn switch "OFF" and remove plug
from power source outlet before
maintaining or lubricating your
lathe.
Apply a coat of automobile-type wax to
the lathe bed to help the tool rest and tailstock move freely.
Have power cord replaced if it becomes
worn or frayed.
Insulated
Cap Flag
Terminal
Black
Green
Power
Cord
Lubrication
Periodically lubricate the ram in
the tailstock with No. 20 or No. 30
engine oil.
Motor Maintenance And Lubrication
1. The bearings, in both en d shiel ds of the
motor, have been lubricated at the factory with correct lubricant. No other part
of the motor requires lubrication.
2. If disassembly of the motor is necessary, it should be returned to your nearest RIDGID Service Center retail store
in order to prevent voiding the guarantee.
NOTE: The speed of this motor cannot
be regulated or changed.
Recommended Accessories
Item Description
Replacement Safety Keys...........AC1000
Drill Chuck...................................AC2020
Work Arbor...................................AC8010
4" Faceplate.................................AC8040
Bowl Turning Tool Rest................AC8070
Her-U-Lift (required purchase of
AC9951 - Wood Lathe Extensions
for use on the WL1200)...............AC9950
47
Page 48
Troubleshooting
General
WARNING: For your own safety, turn switch "OFF" and remove plug from
power source outlet before trouble shooting.
Trouble Probable Cause Remedy
Motor will not run 1. Defective On-Off
switch.
Defective switch co r d.
Defective switch box
receptacle.
2. Motor protector open,
(only if your motor is
equipped with an
overload protector).
3. Burned out motor.
4. Index pin engaged.
Lathe slows down
when turning
Tailstock rocks back
and forth excessively.
Bed loose in headstock
1. V-bel t is too loose 1. Adjust belt tension. See “Assembly”
1. Brass adjusting screw
is too loose.
1. Hex head locking
screw not tight.
1. Replace defective parts before
using lathe again.
2. Reset protector when motor has
cooled.
3. Consult an Authorized Service
Center. Any attempt to repair this
motor may create a HAZARD
unless repair is done by a quali fie d
service technician.
4. Disengage index pin (see “Getting
to Know Your Wood Lathe”) section.
Section.
1. Adjust screw. See “Assembly” sec-
tion.
1. Tighten hex head locking screw.
See “Assembly” section.
48
Page 49
Motor
Trouble Probable Cause Remedy
Excessive noise 1. Motor 1. Have motor checked by qualified
service technician. Repair service
is available at an Authorized
RIDGID Service Center.
Motor fails to dev elo p
full power. NOTE:
LOW VOLTAGE:
(Power output of
motor decreases rapidly with decrease in
voltage at motor terminals. For example,
a reduction of 10% in
voltage causes a
reduction of 19% in
maximum power output of which the
motor is capable and
a reduction of 20% in
voltage causes a
reduction of 36% in
maximum power output.)
Motor starts slowly or
fails to come up to
full speed.
Motor overheats 1. Motor overloaded. 1. Take shallower cuts.
1. Circuit overloaded
with light, appliances
and other motors.
2. Undersize wires or
circuit too long.
3. General overloading
of power company
facilities.
1. Low voltage will not
trip relay.
2. Windings burned out
or open.
1. Do not use other appliances or
motors on same circuit when using
the lathe.
2. Increase wire sizes, or reduce
length of wiring. See “motor Specifications and Electrical Requirements” section.
3. Request a voltage ch eck from the
power company.
1. Request voltage check from the
power company.
2. Have motor repaired or replaced.
49
Page 50
Troubleshooting (continued)
Motor (continued)
Trouble Probable Cause Remedy
Starting switch in
motor will not operate.
Motor stalls
(resulting in blown
fuses or tripped circuit
breakers).
Frequent opening of
fuses or circuit breakers.
1. Burned switch contacts (due to
extended hold-in periods caused by low
line voltage, etc.)
2. Shorted capacitor
3. Loose or broken connections.
1. Starting switch not
operating.
2. Voltage too low to
permit motor to reach
operating speed.
3. Fuses or circuit breakers do not have sufficient capacity.
1. Motor overloaded.
2. Fuses or circuit breakers do not have sufficient capacity.
3. Starting switch not
operating (motor does
not reach speed).
1. Have switch replaced and request
a voltage check from the power
company.
2. Have capacitor tested and replace
if defective.
3. Have wiring checked and repaired.
1. Have switch replaced.
2. Request voltage check from the
power company.
3. Install proper size fuses or circuit
breakers.
1. Take shallower cuts.
2. Install proper size fuses or circuit
breakers.
3. Have switch replaced.
50
Page 51
Repair Parts
RIDGID 12" Wood Lathe
Model No. WL1200LS1
Figure 1
NOTE: Any attempt to repair this motor may create a hazard unless repair is done by
qualified service technician.
Repair service is available at an Authorized Service Center.
1
2
Always order by Part Number -- Not by Key Number
Key
No.
1
2
Part No. Description
828929
830177
Motor
Cord, Motor
51
Page 52
Repair Parts
RIDGID 12" Wood Turning Lathe Model WL1200LS1
Figure 2
5
68
13
56
15
43
45
15
16
42
14
17
17
64
41
56
39
16
25
23
16
24
22
65
21
26
18
20
19
15
27
17
16
17
16
15
64
28
6
7
8
37
59
60
50
54
9
10
12
11
44
11
62
10
61
55
63
22
38
66
4
3
2
1
57
58
67
40
38
44
36
55
69
70
50
48
49
52
51
53
47
46
30
36
52
35
29
34
33
32
31
Page 53
Repair Parts
RIDGID 12" Wood-Turning Lathe Model No. WL1200LS1
Always order by Part Number -- Not by Key Number
Figure 2
Key
Part No. Description
No.
1
826550
2
826564
3
813249-54
4
826563
5
826562
6
826584
7
826582
8
816989
9
826553
10
826552
11
826551
12
820377-2
13
826560
14
828268
15
826591
16
826592
17
817449-1
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
826587
826577
820258-4
828180
820326-7
826559
AC8020
826574
826575
826576
826571
808644
816743-4
813317-7
826570
826601
826607
63418
816743-4
820236-6
* Screw, Pan Hd.
* Nut, Hex M8 x 1.25
* Belt, V 1/2 x 37
* Screw, Pan Cr
* Screw, Pan Hd
Headstock
Plunger
Pin, Roll 2.5-12
Spring
Housing, Plunger
Center, Point
Center, Spur
Nut, Hex 3/4-16
Spindle
Bearing, Ball
Ring, Retaining
Bolt, Carriage
M6 x 1.0-65
Wheel, Hand
Housing, Tailstock
Stud, Nut
Lever
Nut, Lock M6 x 1.0
M8 x 1.25-45
Foot, Rear
Nut, Sq. M8 x 1.25
Screw, Sl Set
M8 x 1.25-31.75
Spindle, Tailstock
Center, Live
Rest, 12" Tool
Holder, Tool Rest
Clamp, Support
Tube Asm
M4 x 0.7-8
Wrench, Hex L M4
Rest, 6" Tool
Knob, Guard
Cord w/Plug
Clamp, Cord
M4 x 0.7 x 8
Nut Hex M6 x 1.0
Key
Part No. Description
No.
38
826586
39
826606
40
813314-8
41
824026-4
42
829787
43
826122
44
817450-7
45
826396
46
60341
47
826599
48
See Fig. 1
49
826556
50
830245
51
SP6489
52
SP6489S
53
SP6489F
54
826572
55
818826-6
56
813163-6
57
820249-6
58
820377-1
59
820238-7
60
830245
61
826554
62
821750
63
826605
64
826590
65
826593
66
830244
67
826569
68
818826-4
69
828217
70
AC8060
* Standard Hardware Item - May Be Purchased Locally
* Screw, Pan Hd Ty T
M5 x 0.8-12
Box, Junction
* Lockwasher, Ext M5
* Nut, Hex M4 x 0.7
Switch, Locking
Key Switch
* Screw, Pan Hd Ty T
M4 x .7-8
Bezel, Switch
Outlet
Guard Asm.
Motor
Pulley, 4 Step
* Screw, Soc Se t
M8 x 1.25-8
Operator’s Manual
Operator’s Manual Spanish
Operator’s Manual French
Pulley, 4 Step
* Lockwasher M6
* Lockwasher Int M4
* Screw, Hex Hd
M6 x 1.0-12
Bolt, Cup Hd Sq Neck
M6 x 1.0-45
* Washer, M6
* Screw, Soc Se t
M8 x 1.25-8
Collar
* Screw, Hex Head
M10 x 1.5-30
Plate, Guard
Shoe, Lock
Stud, Nut
Relief, Strain
Bracket, Pl ate
* Lockwasher, M4
* Nut, Acorn M4
Faceplate, 6 In.
53
Page 54
Repair Parts
0
1
4
RIDGID 12" Wood-Turning Lathe
Model No. WL1200LS1
Figure 2
12
3
4
9
8
7
13
1
2
1
3
11
1
5
13
4
1
12
11
6
14
5
15
10
15
4
54
Page 55
Repair Parts
Always order by Part Number -- Not by Key Number
RIDGID 12" Wood-Turning Lathe
Model No. WL1200LS1
Figure 3
Key
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
* Standard hardware item - may be purchased locally.
Part No. Description
No
820377-1
826579
826619
826890
826581
826580
817449-1
818826-6
820238-7
821103
821063-2
818826-7
820236-7
803835-1
805483
Bolt, Rd. Hd. Sq. Neck M6 x 1.0-45
Plate, Support
Board, Wood Lathe
Leg
Support, End
Support, Side
* Nut, Hex M6 x 1.0
* Lockwasher, M6
* Washer, M6
Bolt, Rd. Hd. Sq. Neck M8 x 1.25-16
* Washer, M8 x 16 x 1.6
* Lockwasher, M8
* Nut, Hex M8
Foot, Leveling
* Nut, Hex Jam 3/8-16
55
Page 56
This product is manufactur ed under licen se from Ridgid, Inc.
by One World Technologies, Inc. All warranty communications should be directed to One World Technologies, Inc. at
(toll-free) 1-866-539-1710.
90-DAY SATISFACTION GUARANTEE POLICY
During the first 90 days af ter the date of pur chase, if you are
dissatisfied with the performance of this RIDG ID tool for any
reason you may return the tool to the dealer from which it was
purchased for a full refund or exchange. To receive a replacement tool you must present pro of of purchase and return all
original equipm ent packaged with the origina l product. The
replacement tool will be covered by the limited warranty for
the balance of the three year warranty period.
WHAT IS COVERED UNDER THE LIMITED THREE YEAR
WARRANTY
This warranty covers all defects in workmansh ip or materials
in this RIDGID to ol for t he three year perio d from th e date of
purchase. This warranty is specific to this tool. Warranties for
other RIDGID products may vary.
HOW TO OBTAIN SERVICE
To obtain service for this RIDGID tool, you must return it,
freight prepaid, to an au thorized RIDGID service center for
hand held and st ationary power tools. You may obtain the
location of the authoriz ed service center nea rest you by calling (toll-free) 1-866 -539- 1710 or by log ging on to the RIDGI D
website at www.ridgidwoodworking.com. When requesting
warranty service, you must present the proof of purchase
documentation, which includes a date of purchase. The
authorized service center will repair any faulty workman ship,
and either repair or replace any defective part, at our option at
no charge to you.
WHAT IS NOT COVERED
This warranty applie s only to the original purchase r at retail
and may not be transferred. This warranty only covers defects
arising under normal u sage and does not cover any malfu nction, failure or defect resulting from misuse, abuse, neglect,
alteration, modifi cation or repair b y other than an authorized
RIDGID service cent er for hand held and stationary power
tools. One World Technologies, Inc. makes no warranties,
representations or promises a s to the q uality or performance
of its power tools other than those specifically stated in th is
warranty.
ADDITIONAL LIMITATIONS
To the extent permitted by applicable law, all implied warranties, including warranties of MERCHANTABILITY or FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, are disclaimed. Any
implied warranties, including warranties of merchantability or
fitness for a part icular purpose, that cannot be disclaim ed
under state law are limited to three years from the date of purchase. One World Technologies, Inc. is not res ponsible for
direct, indirect, inciden tal or consequential damages. Some
states do not allow limitations on how long an implied warranty lasts and/or do not allow the e xclusion or limitation of
incidental or consequential damages, so the above limitations
may not apply to you . This warranty give s you specific lega l
rights, and you may also ha ve other rights which vary from
state to state.
Stock No. WL1200LS Model No. WL1200LS1
Serial No. ___________ Model and serial num-
bers may be found under belt guard. You should
record serial number in a safe place for future use.
QUESTIONS OR COMMENTS?
CALL 1-866-539-1710
www.ridgidwoodworking.com
OWT Industries, Inc.
Hwy. 8
Pickens, SC 29671
Part No. SP6489 Form No. SP6489 Printed in China 5/03
Please have your Model Number and Serial
Number on hand when calling.
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