Do you need to turn things on and off through your telephone or
HAM radio? Do you need to remotely access repeaters, your
cottage thermostat, or your home security lights? This is the kit for
you! The URC1 is a Fully expandable system to control 64
outputs, four variable voltage levels, two variable resistances, and
three real time timers, all through DTMF tones! All of this with full
password protection, comprehensive codes, and expandability!
• Six digit display for long codes
• Fast DTMF decoding time for automatic phone dialers
• Sensitive and accurate audio input for faint tones
• Tone feedback for confirmation of commands
• Full microprocessor control for ease of use
• Included are 15 switched outputs, 4 adjustable voltage outputs
(0-5VDC), 2 digital pots, and 3 real time timers with on and off
times adjustable from 10 ms to 40 hours.
• Two levels of password protection, with a master as well as a
user password.
• Add our matching case and knob set for a finished "pro-look."
• Informative manual answers questions on theory, hook-ups and
uses - enhances resale value, too!
URC1 • 1
RAMSEY TRANSMITTER KITS
• FM100 Professional FM Stereo Transmitter
• FM25 Synthesized Stereo Transmitter
• AM1, AM25 AM Transmitters
• TV6 Television Transmitter
RAMSEY RECEIVER KITS
• FR1 FM Broadcast Receiver
• AR1 Aircraft Band Receiver
• SR2 Shortwave Receiver
• AA7 Active Antenna
• SC1 Shortwave Converter
RAMSEY HOBBY KITS
• SG7 Personal Speed Radar
• SS70A Speech Scrambler
• SP1 Speakerphone
• WCT20 Wizard Cable Tracer
• PH10 Peak hold Meter
• LC1 Inductance-Capacitance Meter
RAMSEY AMATEUR RADIO KITS
• FX146 VHF Transceivers
• HR Series HF All Mode Receivers
• QRP Series HF CW Transmitters
• CW700 Micro Memory CW Keyer
• CPO3 Code Practice Oscillator
• Packet Computer Interfaces
• QRP Power Amplifiers
RAMSEY MINI-KITS
Many other kits are available for hobby, school, Scouts and just plain FUN.
New kits are always under development. Write or call for our free Ramsey
catalog.
COPYRIGHT 1993 by Ramsey Electronics, Inc. 793 Canning Parkway, Victor, New York
14564. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be copied or duplicated without the
written permission of Ramsey Electronics, Inc. Printed in the United States of America.
URC1 • 2
Ramsey Publication No. MURC1
Price $5.00
KIT ASSEMBLY
AND INSTRUCTION MANUAL FOR
URC1 UNIVERSAL
REMOTE CONTROL
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Introduction to the URC1 ........................ 4
How it works ........................................... 5
Tips and Notes ....................................... 6
Parts list ................................................. 7
•Fast DTMF decoding time for fast automatic phone dialers
•Sensitive audio input for faint tones
•Tone feedback for confirmation of commands
•Accurate decoding, rejects dial tones and normal audio
•Small size, runs on 7 to 15 VDC.
•Fully microprocessor controlled for ease of use
•Has many features, and is fully expandable
•Included are 15 switched outputs, 4 adjustable voltage outputs
(0-5VDC), 2 digital pots, and 3 real time timers that on and off times
are adjustable from 10 ms to 40 hours.
•Expandable to 48 more switched outputs, and two more pots.
•Two levels of password protection, with a master as well as a user
password.
•Everything is included to get the unit up and running, all that is
required is a power supply, and some source of DTMF tones.
•Add our matching case and knob set for a finished "pro-look."
INTRODUCTION TO THE RAMSEY URC1:
The Ramsey URC1 is a microprocessor controlled remote control that uses
DTMF for turning voltage levels up and down, pots up and down, timers on
and off, and outputs on and off. It uses the 0-9 digits as well as the * and #
digits of a DTMF encoder, but can also use A-D tones for password
protection. Having two levels of password protection, the master (who owns
or runs the URC) can prevent the user (anyone else) from changing the
states of selected controls, which prevents a user from turning on something
that does not need to be turned on. A six digit display shows the valid codes
that were pressed, and shows errors along the way. The display blanks
during passwords as well as when the unit is finished being accessed to save
on power.
NOTE TO NEWCOMERS: If you are a first time kit builder you may find this
manual easier to understand than you may have expected. Each part in the
kit is checked off as you go, while a detailed description of each part is given.
If you are to follow each step in the manual in order, and practice good
soldering and kit building skills, the kit is next to fail-safe. If a problem does
occur, the manual will lead you through step by step in the troubleshooting
guide until you find the problem and are able to correct it.
URC1 • 4
HOW THE URC1 WORKS:
Take a look at the URC1's schematic diagram as we walk through the circuit.
As you can see there is not much to the universal remote control, most of the
work is internal to the IC's.
The real heart of the circuit is U6 the microcontroller IC. This 20 pin IC can
perform an amazing amount of tasks, quickly as well as reliably. This IC
controls all of the outputs as well as the display, and also processes the
codes decoded from U5, the tone decoder IC.
U5, the tone decoder IC does most of the complicated work in this kit.
Internally this chip has a set of counters that latch different outputs depending
on the tones. The internal counters are referenced to a television colorburst
crystal operating at 3.579 Mhz. This reference frequency is used also as the
clock frequency to pin 10 of U5 the microprocessor.
U1, and U3 are serial shift registers. Data is clocked into them bit by bit from
the microprocessor, and then latched to the outputs by a change in state on
the LDS line. One of the outputs from these chips is used to deliver a tone
output for confirmation of commands.
U4 is a digitally controlled dual potentiometer. A very versatile device, it can
control volumes, levels, tuning on most Ramsey kits, thermostats, and
whatever else a pot can be used in.
U7 is a quad serial digital to analog converter. This provides the 0-5VDC
levels in 256 steps. These levels can be used to control dimmers,
thermostats, motor speed controllers, and anything else you can come up
with.
U2 is the display driver IC, this is also loaded serially with information to what
the displays show. It controls six digits of the display as well as the error code
LEDs.
VR1 and the surrounding parts form a simple voltage regulator to supply a
steady 5 VDC to the ICs in this circuit. By using this scheme, we can have a
wide range of supply voltages, from 7 volts to 15 volts DC.
URC1 • 5
"THE RAMSEY LEARN AS YOU BUILD ASSEMBLY STRATEGY"
Take a look at the parts layout diagram, there is quite a lot to the construction
of the URC1. It's easier than it seems once you get going, and after you have
placed a few of the "landmark" components. Other part's positions are
referenced to them, and construction goes quite smoothly. This will help in
relating from one part to another what specific holes a part may require on
the board, and the part's orientation. In addition, we will discuss the purpose
of most components or groups of components as we go along.
Be sure to read through all the steps, and check the boxes as you go to be
sure you didn't miss any important steps. Most of the problems we find here
at the factory are due to faulty assembly - no matter how experienced the
builder may be - it's especially tough to tell a 30 year experienced Ham that
he goofed! Before you run the circuit, check all diodes and polarized
capacitors for proper orientation.
Tips and Notes:
Use a good soldering technique - let your soldering iron tip gently heat the
traces to which you are soldering, heat both wires and pads simultaneously.
Apply the solder on the iron and the pad when the pad is hot enough to melt
the solder. The finished joint should look like a drop of water on paper,
somewhat soaked in.
Parts are mounted on the top side of the board, which on this kit is the side
marked TOP.
IC sockets - A good practice, but not necessary in digital or low frequency
circuits such as this. This prevents the horror of desoldering a bad or
incorrectly placed IC.
Part orientation - All parts in the kit are mounted at 90 degree angles to each
other, meaning that all parts are either parallel or perpendicular to the board.
Part installation - when parts are installed, the part is placed flat to the board,
and the leads are bent on the backside of the board to prevent the part from
falling out before soldering. The part is then soldered securely to the board,
and the remaining lead length is clipped off. Some parts may have body paint
on their leads, preventing the solder from making a firm bond. In this case,
lightly scrape the paint away to allow the solder to make contact with the
wire.
URC1 • 6
RAMSEY URC1 PARTS LIST:
SEMICONDUCTORS
1 7805 5 volt power regulator (VR1)
1 145436 (or MC145436) 14 pin dip DTMF decoder IC (U5)
1 68HC705J2 20 pin dip pre-programmed microcontroller
(white sticker marked URC-1) (U6)
1 MAX7219 24 pin dip 8 digit display driver (U2)
1 MAX500 quad serial digital to analog converter (U7)
2 74HC595 serial latched shift registers (U1,U3)
1 DS1267 - 10 dual 10K digitally controlled potentiometer (U4)
6 seven segment LED displays (DSP1,2,3,4,5,6)
2 Red LEDs (D2,6)
2 1N4002 black epoxy diodes (D9, D10)
1 2N3904 NPN type transistor (Q2)
1 221-334-211 PNP or equivalent transistor (Q1)
CAPACITORS
5 .01uF disk ceramic capacitors (marked .01 or 103 or 10 nF)
(C2,5,7,10,11)
1 .1uF disk ceramic capacitor (marked .1 or 104) (C8)
1 470pF disk ceramic capacitor (marked 470 or 471) (C9)
1 100uF to 220uF electrolytic capacitor (C15)
3 10uF electrolytic capacitors (C4,6,13)
1 47uF electrolytic capacitor (C14)
1 3.579 Mhz crystal (Marked 3.579 or 3.579264) (X1)
1 1/8" PC mounted minijack (J1)
1 Power jack (J2)
1 Set hardware for regulator (1 screw and 1 nut)
1 34 pin right angle connector (CON1)
1 13 pin right angle connector (CON2)
1 3.9VDC lithium backup battery (B1)
1 Main PC board
1 Display PC board
1 20 Pin IC socket
1 4 inches of #24 bus wire
URC1 • 7
CONSTRUCTION OF THE URC1:
The first thing we will do with this kit is check all of our parts and pieces to
make sure we have them all. Use the parts list and your layout diagram to do
this. If there are any differences, make sure the schematic agrees with what
you have, and also be aware of the tolerances parts have in a kit. Non-critical
parts can vary quite a bit with almost no effect on kit operation. For example
you may get 1uF capacitors in place of 10uF capacitors, or a 3.579 crystal in
place of a 3.579545 crystal. No harm done as these will make no difference in
kit operation. Note there are two boards in this kit, as we will start with the
larger main board in our assembly. You may have to break apart the two
boards depending on how they are shipped.
1. Orient the circuit board as shown in the parts layout diagram.
2. Install J1, the PC mounted 1/8" minijack. This is where you hook up the
audio with the DTMF tones.
3. Install C14, a 47uF electrolytic capacitor. Electrolytic capacitors are
polarized and must be installed correctly. They are usually marked with a
black stripe and a ( - ) indicating their negative lead, while PC boards will
usually indicate the ( + ) hole.
At this point you may wish to make the decision of whether or not to use IC
sockets to mount your ICs. Though they will add to the cost of your kit, they will
prevent the horror of soldering in ICs the wrong direction, or the inability to
easily replace a bad IC yourself. If you are a confident good kit builder, you
wont have to worry about this.
4. Install U7, the 4 channel digital to analog converter (MAX 500, 16 dip).
Pay extra close attention to the orientation of this device and make sure it
is installed in the same direction as in the parts layout diagram. Notice the
part has a tab or dimple representing pin 1. Also note that most if not all of
these components are static sensitive so if you want to be cautious,
ground your body with a clip lead to a ground such as an oscilloscope
chassis. Make sure and practice good soldering skills, and keep an eye
out for solder bridges or cold joints as you go.
5. Install C6, a 10uF electrolytic capacitor. Make sure and check polarity
before soldering!
6. Install R4, a 47K resistor (yellow-violet-orange).
7. Install the 20 pin IC socket where U6 is to go, the microcontroller IC
with the sticker marked URC1. Gently insert the U6 into the socket noting
where pin 1 is. Pay close attention to the orientation of the tab on this part.
Pay close attention again to the orientation of this part. This part as you
will notice controls the position of the wiper on a 10K pot, and has very
good linearity.
9. Install U3, one of the 74HC595 serial shift registers. Each of these ICs
control eight on/off outputs, and can be cascaded for up to 64 outputs on
this kit. Check orientation.
10. Install U1, the other 74HC595 serial shift register. Again check the
orientation of this device.
11. Install C2, a .01uF ceramic capacitor (marked .01, 10nF or 103).
Notice that this type of capacitor has no polarity markings, and is not
critical in installation.
12. Install C13, a 10uF electrolytic capacitor. Pay close attention to it's
polarity unlike the ceramic capacitor.
13. Install C15, the larger 100uF to 220uF electrolytic capacitor. Check
it's polarity before soldering. Electrolytic capacitors, if installed incorrectly
have been known to operate poorly, get warm, and possibly even
explode, so take caution when using these capacitors!
14. Install D9, one of the 1N4002 diodes. These diodes are used to
"steer" the supply voltage to the microcontroller. During normal operation,
these diodes "steer" the voltage away from trying to recharge B1, and
during power down, they "steer" the battery towards the microcontroller,
and away from the other parts to save on power. Notice the white band on
the diode, this is the cathode end. Make sure it's in the same orientation
as the parts layout diagram shows.
15. Install D10, the other 1N4002 diode. Pay close orientation to the
orientation of the cathode (banded) end of the diode. These two diodes
that you just installed cause the microcontroller to go into power down
mode, thus preserving the memory so passwords and output options are
not lost.
16. Install Q1, a PNP type transistor marked 221-334-211. Note where
the lettering is, this is not the flat side, the side without the lettering is!
(You can tell since the larger flat side does not have the lettering.)
17. Install B1, the 3.9V lithium battery. Note the case of this battery is
positive, not ground and it fits in easily only one way.
18. Install R2, a 10K ohm resistor (brown-black-orange).
19. Install C8, a .1uF ceramic capacitor (marked .1 or 104). This causes
the microcontroller to reset properly on power up.
URC1 • 9
20. Install C9, a 470pF ceramic capacitor (marked 470 or 471).
w
21. Install VR1, the 7805 regulator into the the three holes provided in the
board. The metallic portion of the regulator should face towards the tabbed
side of the board. Gently bend the regulator over until the hole in the tab
lines up with the hole in the PC board. Install the provided screw and nut
through the hole as shown, and tighten the nut until the regulator is snug to
the board. Then solder the three leads securely to the board.
22. Install C7, a .01uF ceramic capacitor (marked .01, 103 or 10nF).
23. Install X1, the 3.579Mhz crystal (silver can). Note that there are three
holes provided for this crystal since there are a couple of sizes of the metal
cans available. Note how it is placed in relation to the silk screen on the
board. Mount X1 as flush to the board as possible.
24. Install R3 a 1M ohm resistor (brown-black-green).
7805
Shin y si de
Topside
Nut
Scre
PC Board
25. Install U5, the 145436 tone decoder IC (14 pin dip marked
MC145436). Make sure and double check it’s orientation before soldering.
Also check for soldering mistakes before continuing.
26. Install C4, a 10uF electrolytic capacitor. Check polarity!
27. Install C5, a .01uF ceramic capacitor (marked .01, 103, or 10nF).
28. Install C10, a .01uF ceramic capacitor (marked .01, 103, or 10nF).
29. Install C11, a .01uF ceramic capacitor (marked .01, 103, or 10nF).
30. Install R1, a 10K resistor (brown-black-orange).