Ramsey Electronics STC1 Instruction Manual

Ramsey Electronics Model No. STC1
Now you can give your home stereo transmitter all of the features found in a professional radio station! Control and prevent overmodulation, interference from high frequency signals such as TVs and older CD players, and “sweeten” the mix with Bass, Presence, and Brilliance. A perfect companion for the FM10A and the FM25 or any other FM radio transmitter!
Gives your station that professional sound with real “Punch!”
Ideal companion for FM10A and FM25
Requires any DC voltage from 9 to 12VDC
Uses line levels from CD players, tape decks, mixers etc.
Bass, Presence, and Brilliance controls
Dynamic range limiter to prevent overmodulation.
15kHz 8th order butterworth low pass filters on each output to
prevent high frequency interference with the stereo carrier.
Clear, concise assembly instructions lead you to a finished product
that works FIRST time!
Add our case and knob set for a finished ‘Pro’ look. Cases match all
Ramsey products.
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RAMSEY TRANSMITTER KITS
FM10A, FM25B FM Stereo Transmitters
TV6 Television Transmitter
FM100B Super Pro FM Stereo Transmitter
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FR1 FM Broadcast Receiver
AR1 Aircraft Band Receiver
SR2 Short-wave Receiver
AA7 Active Antenna
SC1 Short-wave Converter
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SP1 Speakerphone
MD3 Microwave Motion Detector
PH14,15,16 Peak hold Meters, great for VU meters!
LC1 Inductance-Capacitance Meter
TFM3 Tri-Field Meter
ECG1 Heart Monitor
LABC1 Lead Acid Battery Charger
RAMSEY AMATEUR RADIO KITS
DDF1 Doppler Direction Finder
HR Series HF All Mode Receivers
QRP Series HF CW Transmitters
VLF1 Low Bander Low Frequency SWL Converter
CPO3 Code Practice Oscillator
QRP Power Amplifiers
RAMSEY MINI-KITS Many other kits are available for hobby, school, Scouts and just plain FUN. New kits are always under development. Write or call for our free Ramsey catalog.
STC1 STEREO TRANSMITTER COMPANION INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Ramsey Electronics publication No. MSTC1 Revision 1.3
First printing: Jan. 1996 MRW
COPYRIGHT 1996 by Ramsey Electronics, Inc. 590 Fishers Station Drive, Victor, New York
14564. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be copied or duplicated without the written permission of Ramsey Electronics, Inc. Printed in the United States of America.
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STC1 STEREO TRANSMITTER
COMPANION
Ramsey Publication No. STC1
Price $5.00
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Introduction .................................... 4
How Does It Work? ........................ 5
Learn As You Build ........................ 7
Parts List ........................................ 8
Construction ................................. 10
Schematic Diagram...................... 14
Setup And Testing........................ 21
Using The STC1........................... 22
Parts Layout Diagram .................. 24
Parts Value Diagram.................... 25
Troubleshooting ........................... 26
KIT ASSEMBLY
AND INSTRUCTION MANUAL FOR
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INTRODUCTION TO THE STEREO TRANSMITTER COMPANION
Knowing how troublesome different audio sources can be when trying to transmit them over the air, we have come up with a product that will eliminate many of the problems. This kit allows the FM10A and the FM25 stereo transmitters to have the same quality audio and transmission that the professional radio stations have. The STC1 has many of the same features the professional sound processors have, and will be sure to please your listening audience when used with your home brew transmitter.
If you have experienced a steady whine while trying to transmit a television signal or audio from an older CD player, this kit will help to reduce the problem. The cause of this problem is the horizontal sweep frequency in a television, or the 44kHz sampling frequency of the CD player mixing with the 38kHz stereo carrier. What you are hearing is the sum and the difference frequencies that are the result of the mixing process. The same occurs with high frequency audio such as cymbals and when someone says the letter ‘s’.
To help control this problem, this kit incorporates a 16kHz 8th order Butterworth low-pass filter. This helps to eliminate interference with high frequencies, such as cheap CD players and other high frequency interference. Some of you may ask what 8th order means? Well, put simply it means a steep cutoff curve above 16kHz. The more orders in a filter, the greater the slope of the cutoff curve. Butterworth is the name given to the description of the curve’s shape. A Butterworth curve means there are no dips or peaks in the audio response before the cutoff point’s frequency. This means there is no “coloration” added to the audio being processed in the circuit.
To prevent overmodulation in your transmitter, this kit incorporates a soft limiter. This limiter prevents the audio from going over a certain set level. Since the audio is limited, so will be your modulation. There are indicator LEDs included so that when the limiter is activated, you will know. When an audio signal is limited, it introduces distortion into the audio causing the sound to become rather distorted. The idea is to run your audio just under the limiting level so that the LEDs blink very rarely. It also is a good way to keep all of your audio levels close to the same for sound volume consistency.
To add a little more functionality to the STC1, and make it difficult for the engineer to stuff all the parts on a small, single-sided board with a very few jumpers, a set of tone controls were added in. This allows you to compensate for a lack or surplus of bass, treble or midrange before the sound is transmitted. Some people don’t like a nice flat response in their sound, they like the bass turned up to give a nice full sound to their listeners. Needless to say these tone controls allow you to custom tailor your sound to your own tastes.
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HOW DOES IT WORK?
To help you understand where we are in the circuit you will want to look at the circuit diagram in the center of the manual. We will work from the input of the left channel to the output of the left channel. We don’t need to look at the right channel since it is identical to the left half.
The audio signal coming into J1 is a line level signal at about 1 volt peak-to­peak, which is a 0dB line level signal (standard). The audio level is cut in half by resistors R63 and R28. This is necessary due to the lower voltages supplied in the circuit. This keeps the signal level well inside the operating range of the opamps later in the circuit to prevent distortion.
The signal then enters into U1:A and surrounding capacitors and resistors. This is an active low pass filter to prevent any signals from outside the audio range from entering into our circuit. This keeps high frequency signals from interfering with our special filters later in the circuit.
The low pass filter output is then fed into what appears to be three feedback loops in an opamp circuit. Each branch is a different type of filter. One for low pass, one for midrange, and one for high pass. Yes, you have it, it’s the tone controls for the left channel of the circuit. This arrangement allows us to boost or cut frequencies from +/-12dB in three bands.
The output of our tone controls are then fed to the limiter circuit. This is where a little magic comes into play when you see the two diodes in the feedback path of the opamp. As you may know, diodes only conduct in one direction, but what you may not know is that it takes about .5 to .7 volts to begin to conduct in the forward direction. This is called the forward voltage drop of the diode. This .7 volt drop is used as our limiting voltage reference.
During signal levels under .5 volts peak-to-peak on the output pin 1 of U2:A , U2:A acts like a simple inverting amplifier with its gain controlled by R23, R18, and the feedback resistor of R15. For example if we had R23 set at 7.8K ohms, the gain of the circuit would be -1 in these signal conditions. The change comes with signal levels over .5 volts. The diodes D1 and D2 begin to conduct on ei­ther positive or negative going signals since they are connected in opposite directions. This allows R51 to come into the gain equation. When the diodes are on the gain lowers dramatically. In this case the gain goes to less than -.1. Now the gain is 1/10 of what it used to be, and it prevents the output of this stage from going much over .7 volts peak-to-peak.
The output of this limiter stage is then fed to two different stages, one of which is the clip detector. This clip detector is set to detect any signal over .6 volts peak-to-peak at the output of the limiter, which is where significant sound dis­tortion begins. D6, C4, R55, and R58 make up a simple peak hold circuit by rectifying the AC audio output of the limiter into a DC level related to volume.
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When this voltage on pin 5 of U2:B goes higher than 5 volts of the supply on pin 6 of U2:B, the output of U2:B goes high, thus lighting the LED clip indicator.
The other part of the signal goes to U3, a switched capacitor lowpass 8th order Butterworth filter. These filters are really neat since they don’t need any high accuracy frequency dependent parts, and don’t require pancakes. All that is needed is a good steady TTL clock signal to set the cutoff frequency. Internally these chips have a divide by 100 cutoff in relation to the clock frequency, so to get a cutoff frequency of 15KHz, we needed a clock frequency of 1.5MHz. Since 555 timers don’t like to run at this speed, a stable source was needed that was better than a CMOS oscillator. Well, a little overkill never hurt anyone, so now there is a crystal oscillator running at 6MHz, and divided by 4 by U6:A and U6:B to give us 1.5MHz. Now we have a cutoff frequency right at 15kHz with very little drifting in frequency.
There is also an internal opamp inside of U3, which allows us to filter the clock frequency out of the audio signal before going out to J2 and then on to your transmitter. R14,16,17, C9, and C16 are the parts included for this filter (Notice similar part values around U1:A)
Well, that about sums it all up. Now we will get on to the fun stuff, and make ourselves a really great kit that we understand!
NOTE TO NEWCOMERS: If you are a first time kit builder you may find this manual easier to understand than you may have expected. Each part in the kit is checked off as you go, while a detailed description of each part is given. If you follow each step in the manual in order, and practice good soldering and kit building skills, the kit is next to fail-safe. If a problem does occur, the manual will lead you through step by step in the troubleshooting guide until you find the problem and are able to correct it.
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RAMSEY “LEARN-AS-YOU-BUILD” ASSEMBLY STRATEGY
Be sure to read through all of the steps, and check the boxes as you go to be sure you didn't miss any important steps. Although you may be in a hurry to see results, before you switch on the power check all wiring and capacitors for proper orientation. Also check the board for any possible solder shorts, and/or cold solder joints. All of these mistakes could have detrimental effects on your kit - not to mention your ego!
Kit building tips:
Use a good soldering technique - let your soldering iron tip gently heat the traces to which you are soldering, heating both wires and pads simultaneously. Apply the solder on the iron and the pad when the pad is hot enough to melt the solder. The finished joint should look like a drop of water on paper, somewhat soaked in.
Mount all electrical parts on the top side of the board provided. This is the side that has little or no traces on it. When parts are installed, the part is placed flat to the board, and the leads are bent on the backside of the board to prevent the part from falling out before soldering (1). The part is then soldered securely to the board (2-4), and the remaining lead length is then clipped off (5). Notice how the solder joint looks on close up, clean and smooth with no holes or sharp points (6).
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RAMSEY STC1 PARTS LIST
Semiconductors
2 LF347 Quad Op-Amps (U1,2) 1 74HC74 Dual type ‘D’ flip-flops (U6) 2 MAX291 8th order Butterworth Switched Capacitor Filters (U3,5) 6 1N4148 small signal diodes (small glass body with black stripe)
(D1,2,3,4,6,8)
1 4.9 to 5.1 volt zener diode (small black or grey body with stripe on one
end) (D5)
2 7805 three terminal regulators (marked 78L05) (VR1,2) 1 2N3904 NPN transistor (Q1) 2 LEDs (D7,9)
Resistors
1 100 ohm resistor (brown-black-brown) (R47) 5 270 ohm resistors (red-violet-brown) (R40,56,57,60,61) 8 1K ohm resistors (brown-black-red) (R19,43,44,46,48,50,51,54) 4 1.8K ohm resistors (brown-gray-red) (R11,12,36,37) 2 2.2K ohm resistors (red-red-red) (R18,27) 4 3.3K ohm resistors (orange-orange-red) (R8,9,31,32) 6 4.7K ohm resistors (yellow-violet-red) (R28,35,38,39,63,64) 12 10K ohm resistors (brown-black-orange) (R4,5,7,15,24,25,26,30,41,
42,52,53)
8 15K ohm resistors (brown-green-orange) (R1,2,14,17,20,21,29,34) 6 47K ohm resistors (yellow-violet-orange) (R3,16,22,33,55,59) 1 100K ohm resistor (brown-black-yellow) (R45) 2 4.7M ohm resistors (yellow-violet-green) (R58,62)
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Capacitors
5 100pF ceramic capacitors (marked 100, or 101) (C1,9,18,27,45) 1 470pF ceramic capacitor (marked 470 or 471) (C46) 4 .001uF ceramic capacitors (marked .001, 102, or 1n) (C6,16,25,32) 4 .0047uF or .005uF ceramic capacitors (marked .0047, 472, .005, or 502)
(C7,10,29,34)
2 .01uF ceramic capacitors (marked .01, 103, or 10n) (C38,42) 1 .1uF ceramic capacitor (no reference designator) 2 .022uF or .02uF ceramic capacitors (marked .022, 223, .02 or 203)
(C8,C31)
2 .047uF or .05uF ceramic capacitors (marked .047, 473, .05 or 503)
(C2,20)
1 .1uF ceramic capacitors (marked .1, 104, or 100n) (C44) 15 10uF electrolytic capacitors (marked 10uF) (C3,4,5,11,12,13,21,23,
26,28,35,37,40,41,43)
2 100uF electrolytic capacitors (marked 100uF) (C36,39)
Miscellaneous
1 DPDT power switch (S1) 1 Power jack (J5) 4 RCA jacks (J1,2,3,4) 2 100K trimmer pots (orange tops marked 104) (R23,49) 2 100K dual ganged potentiometers (R6,10) 1 500K dual ganged potentiometers (R13) 1 6.00MHz crystal (marked 6.000) (X1) 1 12” piece of hookup wire.
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