Now you can send perfect quality code at any speed! This
computerized “smart key,” for novices and pros alike, even lets
you store your own personal messages for a fraction of the cost
of other keyers!
•A state of the art microcontroller lets you send perfect quality code
anytime, at any speed!
•Four memory banks allow you to record your own personal
messages for up to two minutes long. Just press a button and your
call is on the air.
•Optional memory upgrade kit connects easily and allows up to 32
messages to be saved.
•“Non-volatile” memory technology will store your messages for
years using no power. You’ll go silent before your keyer!
•Super sensitive iambic touch paddles have no moving parts. Why
pay big money for expensive paddles, when touch pads offer better
performance?
•An internal speaker and earphone jack make this the ideal keyer for
learning or teaching code. Perfect quality code makes learning
easier.
•Just plug it into your rig and you are on the air.
•Thanks to the Ramsey Electronics learn-as-you-build method, both
new and old hams will learn electronics while they have fun.
CW700 • 1
RAMSEY TRANSMITTER KITS
• FM100 Professional FM Stereo Transmitter
• FM25 Synthesized Stereo FM Transmitter
• MR6 Model Rocket Tracking Transmitter
• TV6 Television Transmitter
RAMSEY RECEIVER KITS
• FR1 FM Broadcast Receiver
• AR1 Aircraft Band Receiver
• SR2 Shortwave Receiver
• SC1 Shortwave Converter
RAMSEY HOBBY KITS
• SG7 Personal Speed Radar
• SS70A Speech Scrambler
• BS1 “Bullshooter” Digital Voice Storage Unit
• AVS10 Automatic Sequential Video Switcher
• WCT20 Cable Wizard Cable Tracer
• LABC1 Lead Acid Battery Charger
• ECG1 Heart Monitor
• LC1 Inductance-Capacitance Meter
RAMSEY AMATEUR RADIO KITS
• DDF1 Doppler Direction Finder
• HR Series HF All Mode Receivers
• QRP Series HF CW Transmitters
• CW700 Micro Memory CW Keyer
• CPO3 Code Practice Oscillator
• QRP Power Amplifiers
RAMSEY MINI-KITS
Many other kits are available for hobby, school, Scouts and just plain FUN. New
kits are always under development. Write or call for our free Ramsey catalog.
14564. All rights reserved. No portion of this publication may be copied or duplicated without the
written permission of Ramsey Electronics, Inc. Printed in the United States of America.
1994 by Ramsey Electronics, Inc. 793 Canning Parkway, Victor, New York
CW700 • 2
Ramsey Publication No. MCW700
Price $5.00
KIT ASSEMBLY
AND INSTRUCTION MANUAL FOR
MICROPROCESSOR
CONTROLLED CW
MEMORY KEYER
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Introduction to the CW700 ............ 4
Circuit description ......................... 6
Parts list ........................................ 8
Schematic diagram ..................... 10
Parts Layout diagram .................. 11
CW700 Assembly instructions .... 12
How to use the CW700 ................ 23
Troubleshooting ........................... 24
Flow chart diagram ...................... 26
Ramsey kit warranty .................... 27
CW700 • 3
RAMSEY ELECTRONICS, INC.
793 Canning Parkway
Victor, New York 14564
Phone (716) 924-4560
Fax (716) 924-4555
INTRODUCTION TO THE CW700
THANK YOU for purchasing the CW700 Micro Memory Keyer. We are very
proud of this kit, like all of our others, and hope that you find it both enjoyable
and educational. We’ve packed a lot of value into it and we know that you
will be pleased with it’s operation.
Have you ever looked in the back of a ham radio magazine, and thought to
yourself, “why do keyers cost so much?” The main cost when you buy a
keyer is the extensive machining that is necessary to make the paddles work
smoothly. That is why you may pay one hundred dollars or more for a good
quality key. We also asked ourselves what features are missing in even the
most expensive keys that that our customers would enjoy? In a short time,
our design department has come up with the solution to all of your CW blues.
Introducing the Micro Memory Keyer.
The micro memory keyer is an inexpensive, yet superior product. Not only
do you get touch sensitive pads, which require no moving parts, and won’t
slow you down, but we’ve even included memory for the most avid
operators. Are you tired of sending CQ over and over for that rare DX?
Program it in seconds and you can send your call out tirelessly. Are you
tired of spending hundreds of dollars on expensive keys when all that you
want to do is get on the air? Or practice your code? The CW700 will teach
you code with it’s built in code oscillator, and get you on the air even quicker
if you are ready to get some contacts. The CW700 can even teach you
electronics, which could help you on your next license exam. All of these
advantages at one low price...why buy anything else?
The Micro Memory Keyer will be very satisfying to build and use. Our learn
as you build assembly teaches as you build. None of this “throw the parts on
a board and hope it works!” Since this project contains many parts,
mechanical details and order of placement are just as important as good
soldering technique. We believe that you will get the most satisfaction out of
your kit if you are willing to follow our directions carefully.
There are several reasons why following directions are so important for this
kit. Of course, we both want it to “work” the first time. In addition:
•We want the three boards to fit together properly. For example, if you do
not assemble them in the proper order, they may not fit together well. It
is vital that the boards fit together properly to make the proper
connections.
•You want the Micro Memory Keyer to look good when it is finished.
CW700 • 4
There is nothing better than using equipment that you have constructed
yourself, and a nice looking keyer can be a great addition to any station.
•And you want it to be mechanically durable, so it can be used reliably
when and where you want to, for years to come.
Our directions are designed to help you accomplish these goals. Please
follow them carefully!
TAKING A LOOK AT THE CW700 MICRO MEMORY KEYER
Let’s take a good look at the CW700 for a moment. Your new keyer is a fully
functional iambic keyer that is controlled by a small micro computer IC chip
supplied with the kit. You may notice that the PC board is divided into three
parts. These parts are, the main board, the front control board and the
paddles. It must be noted that our directions are VERY important to help you
join these boards together correctly.
The main board is a conventional board that connects most of the
components. The on-board computer, battery, speaker and jacks are all
mounted on this board.
The front board contains all of the necessary holes and connections for the
controls that you will see on the front of the unit. You may note the many
contacts, or pads, that interface it with the main control board.
The portion of the board consisting of the paddles will become touch
sensitive keys in only a few short steps. We will show you how to adjust
their sensitivity to ensure you the most satisfaction and enjoyment.
Our specially designed case has been prepared to make your project look
it’s best. The case will fit in with most any ham station.
We have supplied you with all of the electrical components necessary to
complete the kit. This includes the onboard computer. The only thing that
you must supply is a nine volt battery, and of course some effort in putting it
together!
CW700 • 5
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION
Looking at your circuit, you will see that the circuit can be broken down into
four basic parts.
The first part is the power supply. The power supply circuit converts the nine
volts DC power coming into your circuit into the clean five volts needed to
power the computer circuitry properly. With such a power supply, the
CW700 can take a large range of input voltages and still function perfectly.
Another part of the circuit is the touch sensitive paddles. When you touch
them, the pad senses your finger. The 74HC04 inverter simply sends out a
signal to the microcontroller telling it whether or not the paddles are being
touched. This circuit is what provides the “magic” in the touch paddles. We
would like you to know that throughout this whole process, there is no
danger from any high voltage going through your finger.
The third part is the 68HC705K1 microcontroller chip, the X2402 memory
chip and the surrounding logic. This is the “nerve center” of the circuit. The
microcontroller monitors the switches and paddles and has a program that
interprets your commands. When it determines that a switch was pushed or
that a paddle was touched, it consults it’s program with what to do. In order
to insure that your microcontroller is functioning properly, we test and
program each and every one right here at the factory. This ensures the most
reliable product. Our optional memory kit, the CW700MX replaces the single
memory chip with many, offering you space to save up to thirty-two
messages.
The input/output circuits are the fourth part of the circuit. These circuits are
what interface the microcontroller to the outside world. They include the
buttons, LED, speaker and all of the jacks. These are some of the reasons
why your key is so versatile. In fact, we have even included a jack that sends
out computer pulses. With so many interfaces, you can use the CW700 for
what you want. Many keyers on the market limit you to hooking up to a
specific radio input or using the internal speaker. Your Ramsey keyer can go
as far as your imagination and skill takes you.
CW700 • 6
RAMSEY LEARN-AS-YOU-BUILD KIT ASSEMBLY
There are numerous solder connections on the CW700 printed circuit board.
Therefore, PLEASE take us seriously when we say that good soldering is
essential to the proper operation of your keyer!
•Use a 25-watt soldering pencil with a clean, sharp tip.
•Use only rosin-core solder intended for electronics use.
•Use bright lighting. A magnifying lamp or bench-style magnifier
may be helpful.
•Do your work in stages, taking breaks to check your work. Carefully
brush away wire cuttings so they don't lodge between solder
connections.
We have a two-fold "strategy" for the order of the following kit assembly
steps. First, we install parts in physical relationship to each other, so there's
minimal chance of inserting wires into wrong holes. Second, whenever
possible, we install in an order that fits our "Learn-As-You Build" Kit building
philosophy. This entails describing the circuit that you are building, instead of
just blindly installing components. We hope that this will not only make
assembly of our kits easier, but help you to understand the circuit you’re
constructing.
For each part, our word "Install" always means these steps:
1. Pick the correct part value to start with.
2. Insert it into the correct PC board location.
3. Orient it correctly, follow the PC board drawing and the written
directions for all parts - especially when there's a right way
and a wrong way to solder it in. (Diode bands, electrolytic
capacitor polarity, transistor shapes, dotted or notched ends
of IC's, and so forth.)
4. Solder all connections unless directed otherwise. Use enough
heat and solder flow for clean, shiny, completed connections.
Again, we seriously hope that you enjoy building this kit, and find it
educational too. Ramsey electronics has a complete line of electronics kits
for both hams and electronics fans all over the world. We look forward to
your patronage in the future.
For easier assembly of the CW700, we suggest this listing of tools to have
on hand to borrow or buy.
A. BASIC PC BOARD WIRING
Needle-nose plier
Tweezers
Wire snippers
Thin-diameter rosin core solder intended for electronics use
Illuminated magnifier or very good eyes
B. SOLDERING EQUIPMENT
A 25 watt soldering pencil with a clean sharp tip.
Basic de-soldering tool of some kind
Highly recommended: Set of standard “soldering aid” tools such as
Radio Shack No. 64-2227
C. ADDITIONAL TOOLS
A Dremel Tool, file, nibbler or cutter to clean the edges on your PC
board. This tool is only necessary if your PC board has not been cut for
you already.
CW700 • 9
CW700 PARTS LAYOUT DIAGRAM
CW700 • 10
CONSTRUCTION
Since you may appreciate some “warm-up” soldering practice as well as a
chance to put some “landmarks” on the PC board, we’ll first install some
“hardware” components. This will also help us to get acquainted with the up down, left - right orientation of the circuit board. Remember that the
components will be mounted on the “component” side of the circuit board
and soldered on the “solder” side of the circuit board. Also, save your wire
clippings. You will need them later on in your circuit.
There are three basic considerations in assembling this PC board:
1. Good, basic PC board construction techniques.
2. Avoiding or repairing “solder bridges” on many different IC or LED display
solder joints.
3. A smooth fit of the PC board with the paddles and control board. This is
essential to the success of the project.
We encourage you to follow our suggested order of assembly.
1. First, identify the three basic parts of the PC board, the main board,
front board and paddles. We will separate the three parts of the board
into their parts if this has not already been done for you. This can be
accomplished by setting the slot between the paddles and the main
board on the edge of a table or bench. Continue by pushing down the
section of circuit board that is hanging over the edge. The board should
separate into two pieces. Next, separate the front board from the main
board using the same technique. NOTE: It is important to break off the
paddles before the front board. You may notice that if you break the
front board off first, one paddle may break!
2. Find the large 1/4” stereo jack (J1). This should resemble a small
black box with a round opening at one end. Press the jack firmly into the
PC board so that all connections fit correctly. Using a hot, clean
soldering iron, solder all connections. Be sure to use good soldering
techniques, and only use enough solder to make the connection. Too
much solder may stick to places that you don’t want, and it’s messy, too!
3. Place the two RCA jacks (J4, J5) in their places on the board. These
jacks will have a colored plastic insulator on the inside of the jack, and
should “snap” into place. Solder the jacks into place. Be sure to use
enough heat to “flow” the connections on to the circuit board - this not
only ensures a good electrical connection, it also strengthens the
connector for a trouble-free hookup.
CW700 • 11
4. Place the two miniature earphone jacks (J3, J6) on the board. Mount
them flush with the board and solder all connections. Cut off any excess
leads and check to see if your soldering connections are in good
condition.
Now that you have had a chance to get a little soldering practice, we will start
by constructing the touch sensitive circuit. The components for the circuit
will be mounted on both the front and main boards. Please remember to
mount all resistors flush to the board if there are no special instructions.
5. Install R7, 22M ohm resistor [red-red-blue]. The resistor must be
mounted “standing.” This is to make more space for other components
and to keep your board from getting cluttered. Simply insert one of the
leads of the resistor all of the way into the
board. You can now bend the other lead into
it’s hole. The picture to the right shows how it
should look when it is properly mounted. In this
kit, there will be other resistors that need to be
mounted “standing.” Please refer to the Parts
Layout Diagram or the circuit board for the
mounting style of each resistor.
6. Install R8, 1K ohm resistor [brown-black-
red]. R7 and R8 protect the “dot” circuit from
dangerous static current discharges.
7. Install R11, 1K ohm resistor [brown-black-
red].
8 Install R14, another 22M ohm resistor [red-red-blue]. This also must
be mounted standing. Resistors R11 and R14 protect the dash sensor
from burning out.
11. Install C5, .01 uF disc capacitor [marked .01, 103 or 10nF]. These
capacitors are also designed to purge noise from the circuit. Less noise
means that the keyer won’t be beeping when you don’t want it to.
12. Install C1, .01uF disc capacitor [marked .01, 103 or 10nF] located
near U1. Disc capacitors, like resistors, do not have polarity. It does not
matter which way it is inserted. C1 bypasses noise to ground. This way,
your touch paddles will “know” that it is you, and not just stray electrons
in the circuit.
CW700 • 12
13. Now that we have installed most of the touch sensitive circuit, we
will install the digital chip that will detect your touch. Identify U1, a 14 pin
chip labeled 74HC04. On the chip, there is a little notch, dot or band on
one end. This is there to help you put the chip in correctly. When
properly inserted, the marking should face towards the back of the
board. You may also note that the outline of the chip with the notch in
the proper direction is also printed on the board. Solder the chip
carefully to the board making sure to get good connections.
14. Identify D1, a 1N4148 glass bead diode. Looking at the diode, you
will notice that there is a black band printed on one end of it. When
bending the diode leads, it is best to bend them at first with a pair or
needle nose pliers. The leads may break off if there is too much strain
on them. After you initially bend them, you may use your finger or pliers
to bend them the rest of the way.
Diodes act like a one way valve; they let the electrons go in one direction,
but not in the other. For this reason, it is very important to install the diode
pointing in the right direction, or polarity. As a rule of thumb for this kit,
please insert all parts according to their outline on the board. For diodes, the
direction of the bands must match.
15. Insert D2, 1N4148 glass bead diode, paying attention to the polarity.
18. Install R2, a 10K ohm resistor [brown-black-orange]. Mount it
standing up.
19. Install R1, a 10K ohm resistor [brown-black-orange]. Mount it
standing up also. (All this standing up must make the resistors tired!)
20. Install C3, a .01uF disc capacitor [marked .01 or 103 or 10nF].
21. Install C2, .01uF disc capacitor [marked .01 or 103 or 10nF].
Congratulations! With the exception of the sensitivity control and the
paddles themselves, you have built the touch sensitive portion of the circuit.
Take a well deserved break. We encourage you to check over your work
now, and try to identify and correct any mistakes that you may have made.
You will also want to clip any extra leads if you haven’t already done so.
Please save the leads. You will need some later! The next part of the circuit
that you will build is the switch circuit. You are going to construct this portion
of the circuit next, because it will provide you with more soldering practice
before you install the computer chip.
CW700 • 13
22. Install D12, a 1N4148 glass bead diode. Don't forget to check the
polarity!
23. Install D6, D11, D7, D9 and D8. all 1N4148 glass bead diodes.
Make sure that the bands are pointing in the right direction. When you
are done, they will all be facing the same way. These diodes help the
computer decide exactly which button is being pushed.
Now, we’ll install almost all of the components on the front board.
24. On the front board, install R4, a 1K ohm resistor [brown-black-red].
25. One at a time, install all five switches flush with the front board. (S1,
S2, S3, S4, S5) Proper mounting is important if you want your kit to look
great.
26. Identify R6, a 100K potentiometer. It will be small, orange, and
marked 104. Mount it in its place in the front panel circuit board and
solder it. This is the sensitivity control for the switches.
27. Identify LED1, the three color LED. When looking at the LED from
the top you will notice that it has a small flat spot near one leg. You will
also notice that on the same side as the flat side, there is a shorter leg.
Identify either of these. The flat side will be facing down when mounted.
Another way to look at it is that the flat spot will face the programing
switch (S5).
28. Insert R22, a 470 ohm resistor [yellow-violet-brown]. This resistor
limits the current to the LED to a safe level.
29. Identify the sixteen pin socket in your kit (not the chip). (SOC2)
Note the marking cut into one end of the socket. When properly
inserted, this marking must face towards the battery side of the board.
This socket has been included so that the chip is protected from
excessive soldering heat, and can be taken out easily. Solder the socket
to the board.
30. In order to get the most desirable speed range out of your keyer,
some careful thought must be given to installing C14 and C19. See the
chart to choose the correct values.
31. Install the capacitor(s) chosen above. C14 is a 200pF disc capacitor
marked 200 or 201. C19 is a 680pF disc capacitor marked 680 or 681.
32. Next, install the eight pin socket (SOC1) into your board where U3 is
to be mounted. There is a marking on one end. Line this up with the
silhouette on the board, just like it were a chip.
CW700 • 14
We offer an optional kit, the CW700MX, which simply plugs into the socket.
This upgrade, the CW700MX will store up to 32 messages.
41. Install C9, .01uF disc capacitor [marked .01 or 103 or 10nF].
42. Install C11, 10uF electrolytic capacitor. Electrolytic capacitors are
polarized with a (+) and a (-) lead and must be installed in the correct
orientation. Ordinarily, only the negative side is marked on the capacitor
with a dark band and the (-) sign clearly shown, while PC boards will
usually show the (+) hole location. Use care to ensure proper polarity.
43. Install R20, 1K ohm resistor [brown-black-red]. This resistor must
be mounted “standing up.” (Boy, if those resistors didn’t have such
strong legs, you might open your kit up some day and find them all
laying down on the job.)
44. Install R32, 1K ohm resistor [brown-black-red]. Make sure that this
one stays standing up also.
45. Install C13, another 10uF electrolytic capacitor. Be sure to pay
attention to the polarity.
You have now completed the power supply for the microcontroller chip. You
have also completed the circuit that determines the speed of the code.
Please check for bad solder joints and insure that all of the parts have been
inserted correctly. Give your eyes a rest. When you return, you will be
building a circuit for the memory chip first. Then, you will be building the
circuit that makes the tone that you hear, and it’s volume control.
CW700 • 15
46. Install R29, a 10K resistor [brown-black-orange]. Mount this
resistor standing up too, please. It is located next to U3.
You have now completed the circuit that makes the tone that you hear. Now
let’s move on and make the circuit that amplifies the tone so that you can
hear it. (Don’t forget to save your component leads. You are going to need
them soon!)
54. Install R13, a 10K ohm resistor [brown-black-orange].
55. Install C6, a .1uF disc capacitor [marked .1 or 104].
56. Install Q2, a 2N3904 NPN transistor. Make sure the flat side is
oriented correctly.
57. Install Q1, a 2N3904 NPN transistor. Make sure that the flat side is
oriented correctly. The part will be located near the miniature jacks.
58. Install R9, a 47K ohm resistor [yellow-violet-orange]. You may note
60. Install C18, a .01uF disc capacitor [marked .01 or 103 or .01uF].
61. Install D5, a 1N4002 diode. This diode will be black, and have a
stripe at one end. Just as with other diodes, make sure the stripe
matches up with the board.
You have just finished the part of your keyer that makes it such a great code
oscillator not including the speaker. With this feature, you can not only
practice, but help to teach your friends about the wonderful world of CW!
We’ll just make a few more finishing touches and then move on to the power
supply!
CW700 • 16
62. Using the clippings that you saved from other components, or using
the busswire wire supplied in your kit, collect seven wires between one
half inch and one inch long (JMP1, JMP2, JMP3, JMP4, JMP5, JMP6,
JMP7). Using the parts layout diagram, or the print on your PC board,
install all seven jumpers into the circuit.
63. Install R19, a 10K ohm resistor [brown-black-orange]. Stand it up!
64. Next, install R21, a 1K ohm resistor [brown-black-red], and make
sure that it’s standing.
65. Put in C12, a .01uF disc capacitor [marked .01 or 103 or .01uF].
66. Install Q3, a 221334 PNP transistor, making sure that the flat side is
facing correctly. You may notice that both sides may appear flat. We
refer to the flat side as the side that is flat the whole length of the part.
See the parts layout diagram for proper installation.
You have just installed the circuit that sends a computer signal out when you
send. This gives a skilled kit builder the power he needs to to experiment
with his kit.
67. Install R33, a 10K resistor [brown-black-orange]. Mount it standing
at attention, like a soldier being inspected (or our college intern being
questioned!).
68. Install R24, a standing 1K resistor [brown-black-red].
70. Find Q4, a BS170 field effect transistor (FET) [marked bs170].
These transistors do much the same job as other transistors, but have a
high input impedance. This way, they can amplify small signals without
using a lot of the signal’s power. FETs use the same technology found
in modern computer chips. Solder it in place, paying attention to the
correct positioning of the part.
Aside from a number of large parts, such as the potentiometers on the front
and the speaker and battery, only the power supply is missing from the
circuit. Take a well deserved break. Relax your eyes, clear your mind, even
take a peek at our catalog to get some other great ideas about your next kit
to build! When you come back, we will put the finishing touches on our
circuit.
71. Install C16, a 10uF electrolytic capacitor. Be aware of the polarity,
as you would with any electrolytic capacitor. C16 is located near the
battery holder.
CW700 • 17
72. Install VR1, a 7805 voltage regulator. The 7805 steps down the
voltage on the board so that it is usable by the components. It also
allows for the wide input voltage range of the CW700. The writing on the
part should face the back of the board, metal tab towards front.
73. Install C17, a 470 to 1000uF electrolytic capacitor. The capacitor
should be the largest capacitor in the kit. Solder it to the board, making
sure that the polarity is correct.
Now that you have completed the power supply, we will hook up the last
remaining parts.
74. Insert SP1, the speaker into place on the board. Polarity markings
are found on the underside of the speaker. Solder the connections.
75. If they have not been cut already, with a punch, drill or other
method, cut out the two holes where the potentiometers go on the front
panel. There should be enough room to hold the potentiometers easily,
but prevent them from moving excessively.
76. Here is one of the tricky parts of the kit. We have included two
figures on the next page to help you. Take R10, a 10 K potentiometer,
and remove the nut on the shaft. The shaft will fit through the holes in
the front panel. Push the potentiometer into the hole on the right side
(volume, near R6) of the front panel, from the back. This will be your
volume control knob. Without bending or breaking the tab on the edge
of the potentiometer, it should fit easily into it’s own hole on the board.
When the tab is in the hole, the potentiometer is mounted correctly.
Screw the nut back over the shaft. This will hold the potentiometer firmly
in place.
77. Using excess clippings from components, collect eight wires about
an inch long each. Run one wire through each of the five connections
on the potentiometer. Each wire should also be put through the holes in
the board nearest them. Carefully solder each wire to both the board
and the potentiometer. You will notice that the wires actually enter the
board from the bottom. This is perfectly normal. Make sure that they
are not touching each other. See the diagram.
78. Mount R25, the other 10K potentiometer in the hole on the left.
Follow the technique in steps 77 and 78 for proper mounting, connecting
wires to only the three center connections.
CW700 • 18
In order to save you money, we buy our parts in bulk. This is why R25 and
R10 are identical. For the speed control, there is no use for the switch
feature. Therefore, you have two choices. One is to simply disable the switch
feature. The other is to keep the feature so that you can experiment and use
it for a feature that you design.
79. In order to disable the switch feature, you
must first find the small post that is pushed up
when the switch is turned off. This is
accomplished by operating the switch. The small
CUT
HERE
non-metal object in the middle pushes up on the
post when you turn the switch off. Using a small
pair of cutters, cut the post away. The knob should
turn freely when operated through its whole range of motion.
80. Install B1, the battery connector. The red (or positive) lead should be
mounted towards the outside of the board, while the negative (or black
lead) should be mounted towards the inside of the board.
81. Before we connect the boards together, we have just three things left
to install. Find the battery holder for B1, a 9 volt battery. Also find a wire
clipping that is approximately one inch long. Taking the wire clipping,
insert it in the two holes on each side of the mount, and solder the wires to
the PC board. The wire clipping should hold the battery holder in more
securely. Now solder the wire to the battery holder where they touch,
making sure that the battery holder is very straight.
We will install U2, the 68HC705K1 microcontroller, and its X2402 memory
chip. A microcontroller is basically a whole computer in one chip. The chip
contains a microprocessor, the “brain” of real computers today, and also has
memory and other features. Of course it doesn't have enough speed and
memory to actually be put into a computer today, but it is enough to make
your Micro Memory Keyer send as fast as you want.
82. Install U2, the 68HC705K1 chip into it’s socket. Start by making sure
all of the pins are straight. Place the chip evenly on top of the socket,
making sure that the notch is pointing towards the battery holder. Next,
press evenly on the chip until it is completely in the socket.
CW700 • 19
Solder
Front PC board
POTENTIOMETER MOUNTING DIAGRAM
Magnified
view
Main PC
board
Solder
f ille t
betw een PC
boards
PADDL E MO UN TING DIA GRA M
Solder
Solder fillet between PC
boards
83. Install U3, the X2402 memory chip. Mount it the same way as you
did U2, except that the notch must point towards the front of the board.
Now that you have all of the components installed, you should check your
project and take another break. In a few minutes, you will tackle the hardest
part of the job: putting the boards together. Since it is so critical, you should
approach it with an open mind. We sincerely hope that you are both
enjoying yourself and educating yourself.
We will now assemble the boards and the paddles themselves.
84. If they have not been done for you, using clippers, nibblers, a
Dremel tool or another method, cut out the edges of the paddles being
extremely careful not the cut any of the wires on the board. In order to
safely smooth out rough cuts, and work close to the wires, we suggest
using a fine file. When you are done, place the paddles against each
other with the silver traces on the outside. They should fit together as if
they were one piece. Do not use glue, because it may push them apart
so far that they will not fit in the project. File the edges again so that they
are even.
85. Holding the paddles against each other, pass the thin ends of the
paddles through the front board. With the paddles sticking through the
front board, press them into the slot on the main board firmly from the
component side of the board. You should now be able to solder the
paddles to the main board. It is important to keep the paddles straight,
and make good solder connections. For this reason, we suggest having
a helper hold the boards, or using a vise to hold everything in place.
NOTE: If the paddles don’t fit into the board all of the way, you may have
to enlarge the hole on the main board slightly, being careful not to
damage any connections.
86. Now place the front board into the main board. The ends should fit
CW700 • 20
into place, and the front board will be at a 90 degree angle with the main
board. Make a solder connection between the paddles and the front
board where they pass through. Now, all three boards should be properly
positioned.
87. With great care, turn over the boards. You will see a series of pads
along the main board and the front board. Using solder and enough heat,
carefully solder each connection. Please refer to diagram. These joints
not only strengthen your kit, but also connect the wires on the front board
with the components on the main board. Make sure that the solder flows
onto the pads of both boards and does not bridge over onto other
connections. Otherwise your board may not operate properly.
CONGRATULATIONS!
You have just completed your CW700 Micro Memory Keyer! Take a break
now, and give your eyes a rest. When you return, be sure to check over your
work on the entire circuit board. Energizing the circuit board with solder
“bridges” or misplaced components can damage your kit. Follow the setup
and testing steps below to ensure that the kit is working properly.
SETUP AND TESTING
1. Snap a fresh 9V DC battery into the circuit.
2. Turn on the unit by turning the volume knob (R10) clockwise until it
clicks. The LED should turn green.
3. Touch both paddles simultaneously and hold. You should hear an
alternating series of dots and dashes. Adjust the volume and speed
control (R25) until the unit is set for a comfortable speed. Release the
paddles.
HOW TO USE YOU NEW CW700 KEYER
Now that you have your new key operating, take a few moments with us to
learn how to use it’s great features. If you find that you are having problems,
consult the “troubleshooting hints” portion of this book.
If you are using the unit for the first time, or desire the tone or sensitivity to be
adjusted, complete the following steps.
To set the tone, you will have to open up your case if you have one.
Using a phillips head screwdriver, gently turn R15 (tone adjust) while
CW700 • 21
pressing the paddles. When you have the desired tone, replace the
cover.
To set the sensitivity, press the paddles. Turn R6 with a phillips head
screwdriver. Intermittently press the paddles and adjust the sensitivity
until you are comfortable with “feel” of the setting.
That’s all you need to know to send code. Easy? Well, so is using our great
memory feature.
PROGRAMMING THE MEMORY
With the unit on, press S5, the “program” key. The LED will turn from its
normal green to yellow. This indicates that it is ready to be programmed.
Press the button for the corresponding memory bank [S1, S2, S3, S4].
LED will turn green.
Send your message. The LED should turn red the first time that you press
it. When the LED begins to flash, you have used up approximately 75% of
your memory. Please note that the memory may not necessarily last two
minutes per message. The length depends on the contents of the
message, and the speed with which it is sent.
Press the program button.
To play back the contents at any time later, press the desired memory
button.
TROUBLESHOOTING HINTS
Problem: Your CW700 keyer does not work:
All solder connections - this is the most frequent cause of failure. Check
these connections under a bright light and use a magnifying lens. Touch
up any connections that are less than perfect.
Correct orientation of all diodes, chips, electrolytic capacitors and
transistors.
Correct resistor and capacitor placement, “Is that a 10K where a 1K
should be?”
The battery. You must check for correct orientation and the proper
voltage. If the battery doesn't work, chances are, your project doesn't
either! (How long has the battery been in the kitchen drawer?)
When checking voltages on the lines going to or coming from the ICs, you
CW700 • 22
must be aware that there can only be two “states” on a wire: a logic one
and zero. Therefore, you should measure a voltage between zero and .5
volts, or between 2.5 and 5 volts. Any reading between .5 and 2.5
indicates a possible problem and all associated components should be
checked.
The problem may be in your power supply. Make sure that you inspect it
extra thoroughly
Some voltage measurements are noted on the schematic diagram.
Problem: The LED lights and switches seem to work, but nothing happens
when I touch the paddles.
Check the touch sensitive circuit. Be sure to check the polarities and
solder connections on the diodes and U1.
Check the microcontroller circuit.
Press program and a message number, followed by the paddles. If the
light turns red, it may be the audio circuit. Check the tone generator and
amplifier that drives the speaker.
Problem: When I press the buttons, the unit malfunctions and either stops
working or completes the wrong function.
Check to make sure that that D6 through D12 are installed properly.
Check to see that U2 and U3 are installed correctly.
Using a methodical troubleshooting technique, most problems can be solved
using common sense. A volt-ohm meter and a clear head are all that are
usually needed to correct any problem. Please understand that it is nearly
impossible to “troubleshoot” by phone. Any specific questions should be
documented and sent to us by mail.
NEW AND IMPROVED
If you are delighted by our microprocessor controlled keyer, we proudly
introduce our memory add on kit. The CW700MX allows you to store up to 32
messages. In just a few short steps, you can have eight times the memory!
CW700 • 23
CW700 • 24
CW700 FLOW CHART DIAGRAM
CW700 • 25
The Ramsey Kit Warranty
Please read carefully BEFORE calling or writing in about your kit. Most problems can be
solved without contacting the factory.
Notice that this is not a "fine print" warranty. We want you to understand your rights and ours too! All Ramsey
kits will work if assembled properly. The very fact that your kit includes this new manual is your assurance that
a team of knowledgeable people have field-tested several "copies" of this kit straight from the Ramsey
Inventory. If you need help, please read through your manual carefully, all information required to properly
build and test your kit is contained within the pages!
1. DEFECTIVE PARTS: It's always easy to blame a part for a problem in your kit, Before you conclude that a
part may be bad, thoroughly check your work. Today's semiconductors and passive components have
reached incredibly high reliability levels, and it’s sad to say that our human construction skills have not! But on
rare occasions a sour component can slip through. All our kit parts carry the Ramsey Electronics Warranty
that they are free from defects for a full ninety (90) days from the date of purchase. Defective parts will be
replaced promptly at our expense. If you suspect any part to be defective, please mail it to our factory for
testing and replacement. Please send only the defective part(s), not the entire kit. The part(s) MUST be
returned to us in suitable condition for testing. Please be aware that testing can usually determine if the part
was truly defective or damaged by assembly or usage. Don't be afraid of telling us that you 'blew-it', we're all
human and in most cases, replacement parts are very reasonably priced.
2. MISSING PARTS: Before assuming a part value is incorrect, check the parts listing carefully to see if it is a
critical value such as a specific coil or IC, or whether a RANGE of values is suitable (such as "100 to 500 uF").
Often times, common sense will solve a mysterious missing part problem. If you're missing five 10K ohm
resistors and received five extra 1K resistors, you can pretty much be assured that the '1K ohm' resistors are
actually the 'missing' 10 K parts ("Hum-m-m, I guess the 'red' band really does look orange!") Ramsey
Electronics project kits are packed with pride in the USA. If you believe we packed an incorrect part or omitted
a part clearly indicated in your assembly manual as supplied with the basic kit by Ramsey, please write or call
us with information on the part you need and proof of kit purchase
3. FACTORY REPAIR OF ASSEMBLED KITS:
To qualify for Ramsey Electronics factory repair, kits MUST:
1. NOT be assembled with acid core solder or flux.
2. NOT be modified in any manner.
3. BE returned in fully-assembled form, not partially assembled.
4. BE accompanied by the proper repair fee. No repair will be undertaken until we have received the
MINIMUM repair fee (1/2 hour labor) of $18.00, or authorization to charge it to your credit card
account.
5. INCLUDE a description of the problem and legible return address. DO NOT send a separate letter; include
all correspondence with the unit. Please do not include your own hardware such as non-Ramsey
cabinets, knobs, cables, external battery packs and the like. Ramsey Electronics, Inc., reserves the
right to refuse repair on ANY item in which we find excessive problems or damage due to
construction methods. To assist customers in such situations, Ramsey Electronics, Inc., reserves
the right to solve their needs on a case-by-case basis.
The repair is $36.00 per hour, regardless of the cost of the kit. Please understand that our technicians are not
volunteers and that set-up, testing, diagnosis, repair and repacking and paperwork can take nearly an hour of
paid employee time on even a simple kit. Of course, if we find that a part was defective in manufacture, there
will be no charge to repair your kit (But please realize that our technicians know the difference between a
defective part and parts burned out or damaged through improper use or assembly).
4. REFUNDS: You are given ten (10) days to examine our products. If you are not satisfied, you may return
your unassembled kit with all the parts and instructions and proof of purchase to the factory for a full refund.
The return package should be packed securely. Insurance is recommended. Please do not cause needless
delays, read all information carefully.
CW700 • 26
CW700 MICRO MEMORY KEYER
Quick Reference Page Guide
Introduction to the CW700 ............. 4
Circuit description .......................... 6
Parts list ......................................... 8