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ONEREMOTE-WAYSTARTERAUTOMATIC/MANUALWITH TRANSMISSION
FULL ALARM SYSTEM
AND
VIRTUAL TACH SYSTEM (AS PRG-1000 COMPATIBLE)
CT-5072
Installation Guide
Notice
The manufacturer will accept no responsibility for any electrical damage resulting from improper installation of the product, be that either damage to the vehicle itself or to the unit. This unit must be installed by a certified technician using all safety devices supplied. Please note that this guide has been written for properly trained technicians: a certain level of skills and knowledge is therefore assumed. Please review the Installation Guide carefully before beginning any work.
Warning
Before installing the unit, if installing on a vehicle with a manual transmission, test that the OEM Door Switch
contacts of the vehicle work well, and that the Parking Brake system operates properly. If installing on a vehicle with an automatic transmission, test that the vehicle does not start when the gearshift lever is in the “Drive”
position. If it starts in gear, install a manual transmission remote starter system instead.
Doc#: 121105 |
Rev: 2.3 |
© 2012 |
CT5072 |
-CP- |
Canada |
Table of Contents
Introduction..................................................................... |
3 |
Included in the Package ................................................ |
3 |
Installation Tools............................................................ |
3 |
Installation Points to Remember .................................. |
3 |
Installation Order............................................................ |
5 |
A basic introduction to the Relay ................................. |
6 |
Clutch Bypass .............................................................. |
9 |
Harness Description..................................................... |
11 |
6-Pin Main Ignition Harness....................................... |
11 |
5-Pin Secondary Harness .......................................... |
12 |
12-Pin Accessories Harness...................................... |
12 |
5-Pin Harness............................................................. |
14 |
Auxiliary Relay.............................................................. |
15 |
Fifth Relay Output ...................................................... |
15 |
Manual or Automatic Transmission ........................... |
16 |
Transmitter Programming Procedure ........................ |
16 |
Entering Programming Mode ...................................... |
17 |
The Programming Assistance Button (a.k.a. PAB).... |
17 |
Entering Programming Options.................................. |
18 |
Programming Options ................................................ |
18 |
Virtual Tach System ..................................................... |
18 |
Optional Time Delay Adjustment in Virtual Tach |
|
System ....................................................................... |
18 |
Tach Learning ............................................................... |
19 |
Tach jumper settings.................................................. |
19 |
Multi-speed Tach Programming Procedure............... |
19 |
Auto Tach Programming Procedure .......................... |
19 |
Siren/Horn Timing Adjustment ................................... |
20 |
Setting the unit into Ready Mode ............................... |
20 |
Arming and disarming of the System ........................ |
21 |
Installation-programmable Features .......................... |
22 |
Ignition-Controlled Door Locks................................... |
22 |
Secure Lock ............................................................... |
22 |
AUX 3 ouput............................................................... |
22 |
AUX 2 ......................................................................... |
23 |
Safe Start ................................................................... |
23 |
Engine Run Time ....................................................... |
23 |
Idle Mode.................................................................... |
23 |
Turbo Mode................................................................ |
24 |
Vehicle Type – Gas Or Diesel.................................... |
24 |
Siren Chirps................................................................ |
24 |
Arming ........................................................................ |
25 |
Ignition monitoring (Siren or Horn mode)................... |
25 |
Shock Sense and Warn-away Sense ........................ |
25 |
Ignition valet:.............................................................. |
25 |
Bypass ....................................................................... |
25 |
Multi-car Operation .................................................... |
26 |
Intrusion Codes via LED light..................................... |
26 |
Diagnostics via parking lights.................................... |
26 |
Diagnostic table for shutdown. .................................. |
26 |
Diagnostic table for start failure................................. |
26 |
Parking lights flash summary table ........................... |
27 |
Resetting the module to default features.................. |
27 |
Closing Up .................................................................... |
28 |
Testing........................................................................... |
28 |
Troubleshooting Poor Transmitting Range .............. |
28 |
Troubleshooting Q & A................................................ |
29 |
P. 2 |
Installation Guide |
Introduction
This guide contains all the information relevant and necessary for the installation of the alarm and remote starter system. Most of the features of this product are explained in the user guide.
Therefore, if you need detailed information about a feature of the product, we recommend that you refer to the user guide.
Included in the Package
Please review the Installation Guide before beginning the installation, particularly the Wiring Schematic and the Programming Options.
It is very important that you familiarize yourself with the programming and the operation of the system, even if you have already installed a similar system in the past. There are many great features that may be overlooked if the manual is not read; this would prevent you from maximizing the potential of the Module.
Prior to the installation, make sure that all the hardware components required to install the system are in the box.
The following is a list of components included in the kit:
1- Control unit |
1- |
Plug in dual shock sensor |
2- 4 button remote |
1- Siren |
|
1- Antenna and interconnect cable |
1- |
Parts bag |
1- Harness Kit |
1- Wiring diagram |
|
1- Relay and socket relay |
1- User, Installation guide & Wiring diagram |
|
Installation Tools
Here is a list of basic tools and supplies you will need to test and install safely.
•Digital Multi Meter (DMM), Computer safe logic probe, Fused jumper wire, Neon 'trouble' light that is carpet safe, Fender protector, Carpet protector
•Soldering Iron, solder, electrical tape, wire tie straps, split loom, diodes, resistors, relays
•Wire cutters, Wire strippers, Wire crimpers, Needle Nose Pliers
•Sharp knife, Panel poppers, Various Screw drivers
•Socket set, Wrench set, Drill with Drill Bits, Coat hanger (for fishing wires through the fire wall)
Installation Points to Remember
•On vehicles with a manual transmission, always ensure that all door pins are monitored by the remote starter.
•Make sure that the Parking brake and Door switch contacts work properly.
•When working on a vehicle, always leave a window open.
•Never leave the keys in the car. Leave them on a workbench with a window rolled down.
•If possible, remove courtesy light fuse to prevent battery drain.
Installation Guide |
P. 3 |
•The Programming Assistance Button (a.k.a. PAB): The PAB is mounted on the side of the unit. This push button mimics the hood-pin switch in order to avoid having to get out of the vehicle and pressing the hood-pin switch. The PAB will work only when the hood is up.
•Inspect vehicle for any body damage or electrical problems.
•Always solder and tape all connections.
•Keep the transceiver away from other types of antennas (GPS/OnStar®).
•Never install the control unit where it could interfere with normal operation or obstruct service technicians.
•Always use a grommet when running wires into the engine compartment.
•Never run wires through bare or sharp metal.
•Do not disconnect the battery on vehicles equipped with air bags and anti-theft radios.
•Never ground the control unit to the steering column.
•Make sure that all electrical switches and controls operate properly.
•Verify that the vehicle starts and idles properly.
•Make sure that all safety equipment is installed: the valet button (if installed), the hood switch, and the warning label.
Example:
Wiring a clutch bypass and a transponder module to the ground out when running wire: At the junction point, where Ground Out when running “splits” and goes to each device, a diode is inserted on
each of those lines.
Multiple or separate door pin connections:
When joining all door pins together to the door pin input wire of the module, each wire must be isolated
with a diode to prevent feedback.
N.B.: The above examples reflect common situations where diodes are used to isolate. Please note that there are numerous other scenarios where diode isolation is required.
•Always make sure that any external relays or modules added to the Remote Starter module are properly fused and diode isolated.
•When testing the Shock Sensor, never test on glass with an opened hand, and never hit glass hard enough to break it. When testing on metal or plastic, make sure the testing does not result in damage to the vehicle (i.e.: dents, broken glass, damaged trims, etc.).
•Vehicles equipped with daytime running lights may not allow the installer to view certain programming results since the daytime running lights do not turn OFF with the IGN off (Note: The Parking Light output
relay in the module gives two “clicks” per flash, 1 “click” for ON and 1 “click” for OFF). Parking Light flashes referred to in this manual refer to the Parking Light output of the module
INDUSTRY CANADA USER NOTICE:
Operation is subject to the following two conditions: (1) this device may not cause interference, and (2) this device must accept any interference, including interference that may cause undesired operation of the device.
To reduce potential radio interference to other users, the antenna type and its gain should be so chosen that the equivalent isotropically radiated power (EIRP) is not more than that required for successful communication.
NOTE: The manufacturer is not responsible for any radio or TV interference caused by unauthorized modifications to this equipment. Such modifications could void the user's authority to operate the equipment.
P. 4 |
Installation Guide |
Installation Order
The following is a suggested order for the Installation procedure. It is intended as a guide for novices, to help make the process of installing a remote starter module easier. Time is wasted by rewiring the module when mistakes are made. Also, the neatness of the installation is lessened every time the module is taken down and the wiring is “corrected”.
•Visit www.Prostart.org to obtain a copy of your vehicle’s tech sheet (wire colors and locations)
•Before you get started, make sure the vehicle starts and idles properly with the Ignition key, and that the electrical system is not compromised in any way.
•After deciding what options are to be added to the basic installation, you can start by looking for the wires that will be needed.
•Remember to be careful when removing the panels that are covering the wires you are searching for.
•Once all of the wires have been found, they should be tested to verify that they are the correct ones needed for the installation.
•When all the wires have been tested and found, they can be stripped to expose the wire (over one inch of insulation should be removed).
•It is always better to strip more than you need. A common way cold solder joints happen is when not enough insulation is stripped off the vehicle's wire, so during the soldering process the insulation from the wire melts and flows into the connection instead of the solder.
•Decide where the module is going to be mounted. It is ALWAYS mounted inside the passenger compartment, and NEVER in the engine bay. Under the driver's side of the dash there is usually enough room for the module to fit. Once the location has been decided, proceed to the next step.
•Mount the antenna and run the cable to the location where the module is going to be mounted. The antenna will get the best range when it is high up in the vehicle, and not obstructed by metal. The most common choice is the center of the windshield at the top, behind the rear view mirror, and at least one inch below the tint strip. Another location should be used if there is another antenna in this location, compass, or other device that may interfere with the range of the start module.
•In the engine compartment, mount the hood pin, in a suitable location. Search along the firewall for an OEM grommet you run the wires through. If you cannot find an OEM grommet to use, you will have to drill a hole. The hole must be big enough for all of your wires to fit through. To be safe drill the hole out a little bigger so the wires will have ample room. We recommend using an aftermarket grommet whenever you drill a hole through the firewall. This will protect the wires from rubbing against the bare metal and possibly shorting out. If you are installing an alarm / starter combo module, mount the siren in the engine compartment at this time.
•The next step is to pre-wire the module. This is done on your work bench, and not in the vehicle. Connect any external modules and relays that may be needed for you install. Tape or tie-strap wires that are going to be routed to the same areas of the vehicle. This will keep things neat when the module is in the vehicle. The fuses on the power wires should be removed during the pre-wire stage. The fuses will not be put back in until the powering stage of the installation.
•Connect all the necessary accessories to the module before mounting it in the vehicle. Use tie-straps to secure it to the vehicle. Make sure the module and harnessing do not interfere with any moving parts, and do not obstruct access to diagnostic ports, or fuse boxes. It should be up in the dash, high enough that it won't get kicked by accident.
•Once the module is secured, route the wires to the previously stripped wires they correspond to (leave the engine compartment wires for last). Tie strap them up as you go, so they do not interfere with anything else.
•When all of the passenger compartment wires are ran to their locations, you can route the engine compartment wires through the firewall.
•With the engine compartment wires out the way, you can begin making the connections in the passenger compartment. Strip about an inch of wire past where the connection is going to be made. This extra bit of wire is wrapped around the exposed OEM wire to secure in place while you are soldering.
•When all of the wires have been connected, solder the connections. When the solder has cooled, the connections are then individually taped up, to isolate them.
Installation Guide |
P. 5 |
•Return to the engine bay and route the tach and hood pin wire to their corresponding connections.
•Solder the engine compartment wire once the connections are made. When the solder has cooled, the connections are then individually taped up, to isolate them.
•Use your DMM to verify that your ground location is good before grounding the module.
•The last step before programming is to power up the module. Replace the power fuses on the power wire fuse holders. The module will click twice to confirm the power-up.
A basic introduction to the Relay
What is a relay?
A relay is a switching device that responds to a small current or voltage change by activating switches or other devices in an electric circuit such as an electromagnetic switch, remote controlled switch, a switching device.
Why are relays used?
Relays can have several purposes in remote car starter installations. They are mainly used for isolation, inversion, interruption, strengthening current, and for powering multiple wires from one source safely.
How does a relay work?
The basic relay consists of a coil and a set of contacts. The most common relay mechanism is the electromagnetic mechanism. When voltage is applied to the coil, current passes through the wire and creates a magnetic field. This magnetic field pulls the contacts together and holds them until the current flow in the coil has stopped.
Relays come in all varieties and types, but for the applications that concern us, we will concentrate on the single pole double throw (SPDT) 12 volts relay.
Naming Convention
Usually the relay’s manufacturer will include an electrical diagram on the relay displaying the role of each terminal and how they interact with each other.
These terminal numbers are standard, and can be used with any SPDT relay.
85 & 86: The coil. These inputs energize the coil when one is +12 volts, and the other is negative. They are usually non-polarized, so it does not matter which one is positive (+) or negative (-).
87: Normally Open (N/O). When the coil is energized, 87 is connected to 30. 87A: Normally Closed (N/C). When the coil is at rest, 87A is connected to 30.
30: Common. When the relay is at rest, 30 is connected to 87A, when the coil is energized, it is then moved and makes contact with 87. (Note: in a SPDT relay, 30 can never be connected to 87 and 87A at the same time, 30 is connected to either 87 or 87A)
What happens?
When there is no voltage across the coil (terminals 85 and 86), the relay's movable contact arm (connected to terminal 30) is held, by spring tension, against terminal 87A (normally closed circuit).
When 12 volts is applied to the coil (terminals 85 and 86), the arm (connected to terminal 30) is pulled by the electromagnet (coil) so that it physically connects to terminal 87 (normally open circuit).
When 12 volts is applied to the coil (terminals 85 and 86), the arm (connected to terminal 30) is pulled by the electromagnet (coil) so that it physically connects to terminal 87 (normally open circuit).
Remember, there is no polarity on a relay’s coil. This means that you may apply positive from the battery to either terminal 85 or 86, and then ground the other terminal to activate the relay. In other words, you may use either a positive or negative trigger to energize the relay.
Keep in mind, when the relay is energized, if the positive or the ground connection on the coil is broken, the arm switches the connection between 30 back from 87 to 87a.
P. 6 |
Installation Guide |
Quenching Diodes
It was said earlier that a relay energizes itself by applying positive from the battery to either 85 or 86 and grounding the other terminal. This is not absolutely true, some relays are “polarized” if they have a quenching/ suppression diode (A diode installed between the coil terminals 85 and 86, could be internal or external).
To activate the coil on this type of relay, make sure that the +12 volts trigger is on the same terminal of the relay as the anode (+ or non striped side) side of the quenching/suppression diode, and that the negative trigger is on the same terminal of the relay as the cathode (- or striped side) of the quenching/ suppression diode.
When a relay’s coil is energized, a magnetic field is created and energy is stored in the coil. When power is removed from the coil, the magnetic field collapses. This causes a reverse voltage to be generated and can sometimes reach 200 volts. A quenching diode absorbs this reverse voltage spike.
A closer look at a relay
Now that you know what the main inscriptions are on the relay, take a look on the side, and you will see another inscription: 12 VDC, 40/ 30 A.
12 VDC: This indicates the coil voltage rating. For an automotive relay, it's usually 12 volts DC. 40/ 30 A: This indicates the current carrying capability of the contacts 30, 87, & 87A.
40: Indicates that the normally closed circuit (30 and 87a) can safely handle a maximum of 40 amps of current. 30: Indicates that the normally open circuit (30 and 87) can safely handle a maximum of 30 amps of current.
Examples: The following examples demonstrate some of the most common uses for relays: isolation, inversion, interruption, strengthening current, and for powering multiple wires from one source safely.
Powering multiple wires from one source safely
Example: Powering a second ignition
Problem: You need to power multiple ignition wires to remote start the vehicle, but your module only has one ignition output available.
Solution: You will need to add a second ignition relay to power the second-ignition wire. (Jumping ignition 1
to ignition 2 is never recommended Always use a relay. The vehicle circuits are isolated for a reason; the wiring of the remote star module should reflect this.)
The Relay Connections
85:Connects in parallel to the ignition 1 output from the remote start module. This becomes the positive side of the coil.
86:Connects to the Ground Out When Running wire from the remote start module. This becomes the
negative side of the coil.
87: Connected to a fused +12 volts source, that is capable of supplying power for the vehicle's second ignition wire. This becomes the source of power for the 2nd ignition wire.
87A: NO CONNECTION. This terminal is not used in this application.
30: Connects to the vehicle's second ignition wire. This becomes the output of the 2nd ignition relay. Comments: The relay is only energized when the vehicle is running by remote start. When started with the key, the relay is not energized and the integrity of the stock system has been preserved.
Isolation:
Example: Isolating a parking light output
Problem: Some vehicle circuits need to be isolated from feedback. In some cases, when a vehicle is remote started, feed back occurs on a circuit, and powers another device or switch, that was not intended to be powered during the remote starts.
The following example will be a positive (+) park light circuit that feeds back and activates the windshield wipers
during remote starts.
Solution: When power is applied to the OEM parking light wire it back feeds through the park light switch, and activates the wipers. Where the connection was made from the start module’s park light output, and the vehicle's park light circuit, the OEM park light wire is cut to isolate the park light switch and the actual parking lights. A relay is added to the park light circuit so that power from the remote start module is only sent to the parking lights and not the parking light switch.
Installation Guide |
P. 7 |
The Relay Connections
85:Connects to the +12 volt park light output from the remote start module. This becomes the positive side of the coil.
86:Connects to a negative source (where the remote start module is grounded). This becomes the negative
side of the coil.
87: Connects to the +12 volt park light output from the remote start module. This becomes the power supply for the vehicle's park lights.
The OEM park light wire is cut. The side that is still connected to the switch becomes the “switch side”. The side that is still connected to the parking lights becomes “parking lights side”.
87A: Connects to the “switch side” of the cut OEM park light wire. 30: Connects to the “park light side” of the cut OEM park light wire.
Comments: When the relay is at rest, the OEM park light wire is connected (through 87A & 30) and allowed to operate normally. When the remote start module powers the park lights, the OEM park light wire is opened, and power from the remote start module is sent only to the actual parking lights ( from 87 through 30).
Inversion:
Example: Activating a positive trunk release switch
Problem: The vehicle's power trunk release switch is activated by a positive (+) pulse, and the remote start module's trunk output is negative (-).
Solution: A relay is used to invert the negative signal from the start module to a positive signal before it is sent to the OEM switch.
The Relay Connections
85:Connects to the start module's trunk release output wire. This becomes the negative side of the coil.
86:Connects to a fused +12 volts source. This becomes the positive side of the coil.
87:Connects to a fused +12 volts source. This becomes the supply for the positive trunk release.
87A: No connection. This terminal is not used in this application. 30: Connects to the OEM trunk wire in the vehicle.
Comments: At rest, the trunk switch is allowed to operate normally. When the trunk button is pressed, the negative trunk output from the remote start module triggers the relay. When the relay is activated, +12 volts from 87 is sent through 30, and the OEM trunk switch is activated, by the positive pulse.
Interruption:
Example: Creating a starter disable relay to prevent unauthorized starting of the vehicle.
Problem: The OEM starter circuit needs to be disabled only when theft is attempted.
Solution: A relay is used to interrupt the OEM starter wire. There is an output on the remote start module especially for this purpose (starter disable output).
The Relay Connections
85:Connects to the starter disable output wire from the remote start module. This becomes the negative trigger for the coil.
86:Connects to the vehicle's ignition wire. This becomes the positive trigger for the coil.
87:No connection. This terminal is not used in this application.
The vehicle's OEM start wire is cut. The side of the wire that is still connected to the ignition switch becomes the “key side” of the starter wire. The side of the wire that is still connected to the starter motor becomes the “starter side” of the of the starter wire.
87A: Connects to the “key side” of the cut OEM starter wire. 30: Connects to the “starter side” of the cut OEM start wire.
P. 8 |
Installation Guide |
Comments: At rest the relay is not active, and +12 volts on the starter wire passes through the relay (through 87A & 30) normally. The starter disable output wire on the remote start module is activated when the LOCK button is pressed on the remote control.
When a theft attempt happens, and the thief powers the ignition circuit (to hot-wire the vehicle), and the starter disable was armed (by the LOCK button on the remote), the starter disable relay activates. The OEM start wire is now open, (does not make connection) because 30 is no longer connected to 87A, and the vehicle is unable to start.
Strengthening Current: Example: Strengthening an output
Problem: A vehicle has a negative (-) trigger trunk release wire. The module has a negative trunk release output wire. The remote start module is unable to supply the necessary current to activate the vehicle's trunk
release wire.
Solution: A relay is used to provide the necessary negative current to active the vehicle's trunk release wire.
The Relay Connections
85:Connects to the start module's trunk release wire output. This becomes the negative trigger for the coil.
86:Connects to a fused +12 volt source.
87:Connects to a negative source (where the remote start module is grounded). This becomes the supply for
activating the vehicle's trunk release wire.
87A: No connection. This terminal is not used in this application.
30: Connects to the vehicle's trunk release wire.
Comments: At rest the relay is not active and the vehicle's trunk release switch is allowed to operate normally. When the trunk release button is pressed, the start module's trunk release output activates the relay. The ground signal is sent from 87 through 30 to the vehicle's trunk release wire activating the switch and opening the trunk.
Clutch Bypass
In order to remote start a manual transmission vehicle, the clutch switch must be bypassed. Clutch safety switch circuits can take many forms. Listed below are the most common ones. When testing to determine the type of clutch circuit, it is recommended to use a computer safe logic probe. Some vehicles may also have a separate or combined switch on the clutch pedal for cruise control. Usually a cruise control switch reacts the moment you touch the pedal, where as a clutch switch reacts only when the pedal is near the floor. Once the circuit type has been determined, you must recreate what happens electrically at the switch, with the remote start module, to bypass the clutch during remote starts. Relays are often used to accomplish this. Always use
the Ground Out When Running (G.O.) as the negative trigger on your clutch bypass relays, as it is only active during remote starts. NEVER permanently bypass a clutch switch. Do not attempt this if you are unfamiliar
with the use of relays, and diode isolation.
Before any Hot Wiring attempts:
Test and record the way each wire tests in the following positions:
With out the pedal pressed:
•Test the wires with the Ignition OFF
•Test the wires with the Ignition ON
•Test the wires with the Key in the start position
With the pedal pressed:
•Test the wires with the Ignition OFF
•Test the wires with the Ignition ON
•Test the wires with the Key in the start position
With this information for every wire at the switch, determining what type of clutch switching system you have will
be easy.
Direct Feed:
The simplest type of system to test and bypass is the “Direct Feed” system. This circuit simply interrupts the +12v signal starter wire from the ignition switch to the starter solenoid. There are 2 wires in this circuit, the “key side” wire which goes from the clutch pedal to the Ignition switch, and the “solenoid side” which goes from the
Installation Guide |
P. 9 |
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