Shown with optional stand #1792014S
(ordered separately)
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1.0 IMPORTANT SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS
READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE USING THIS
LATHE.
WARNING – To reduce risk of injury:
1. Read and understand entire owner’s manual
before attempting assembly or operation.
2. Read and understand the warnings posted on
the machine and in this manual.
3. Replace warning labels if they become
obscured or removed.
4. This lathe is designed and intended for use by
properly trained and experienced personnel
only. If you are not familiar with the proper and
safe operation of a lathe, do not use until proper
training and knowledge have been obtained.
5. Do not use this machine for other than its
intended use. If used for other purposes,
Powermatic disclaims any real or implied
warranty and holds itself harmless from any
injury that may result from that use.
6. Always wear protective eye wear when
operating machinery. Eye wear shall be impact
resistant, protective safety glasses with side
shields which comply with ANSI Z87.1
specifications. Use of eye wear which does not
comply with ANSI Z87.1 specifications could
result in severe injury from breakage of eye
protection. (Everyday eyeglasses only have
impact resistant lenses; they are NOT safety
glasses.)
7. Before operating this machine, remove tie,
rings, watches and other jewelry, and roll
sleeves up past the elbows. Do not wear loose
clothing. Confine long hair. Non-slip footwear or
anti-skid floor strips are recommended. Do not
wear gloves.
8. Wear hearing protection (plugs or muffs) if
noise exceeds safe levels.
9. Do not operate this machine while tired or under
the influence of drugs, alcohol or any
medication.
10. Make certain the switch is in the OFF position
before connecting the machine to the power
supply. Turn off all controls before unplugging.
11. Make certain the machine is properly grounded.
Connect to a properly grounded outlet only. See
Grounding Instructions.
12. Make all machine adjustments or maintenance
with the machine unplugged from the power
source.
13. Remove adjusting keys and wrenches. Form a
habit of checking to see that keys and adjusting
wrenches are removed from the machine
before turning it on.
14. Keep safety guards in place at all times when
the machine is in use. If removed for
maintenance purposes, use extreme caution
and replace the guards immediately after
maintenance is complete.
15. Check damaged parts. Before further use of the
machine, a guard or other part that is damaged
should be carefully checked to determine that it
will operate properly and perform its intended
function. Check for alignment of moving parts,
binding of moving parts, breakage of parts,
mounting and any other conditions that may
affect its operation. A guard or other part that is
damaged should be properly repaired or
replaced.
16. Provide for adequate space surrounding work
area and non-glare, overhead lighting.
17. Keep the floor around the machine clean and
free of scrap material, oil and grease.
18. Keep visitors a safe distance from the work
area. Keep children away.
19. Make your workshop child proof with padlocks,
master switches or by removing starter keys.
Disconnect machine from power source when
not in use.
20. Give your work undivided attention. Looking
around, carrying on a conversation and “horseplay” are careless acts that can result in serious
injury.
21. Maintain a balanced stance at all times so that
you do not fall into the spindle or other moving
parts. Do not overreach or use excessive force
to perform any machine operation.
22. Use recommended accessories; improper
accessories may be hazardous.
23. Maintain tools with care. Follow instructions for
lubricating and changing accessories.
24. Turn off machine and disconnect from power
before cleaning. Use a brush or compressed air
to remove chips or debris; do not use bare
hands.
25. Do not stand on the machine. Serious injury
could occur if the machine tips over.
26. Keep turning tools sharp and clean for the best
and safest performance, and position the tools
properly in relation to the workpiece.
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27. Never leave the Lathe running unattended.
Turn the power off and do not leave the
machine until the spindle comes to a complete
stop.
28. Use proper extension cord. Make sure your
extension cord is in good condition. When using
an extension cord, use one heavy enough to
carry the current your product will draw. An
undersized cord will cause a drop in line voltage
resulting in loss of power and overheating. Sect.
7.2, Table 2 shows correct size to use
depending upon cord length and nameplate
ampere rating. If in doubt, use the next heavier
gauge. The smaller the gauge number, the
heavier the cord.
29. Never leave the Lathe running unattended.
Turn the power off and do not leave the
machine until the spindle comes to a complete
stop.
30. Remove loose items and unnecessary work
pieces from the area before starting the
machine.
31. Don’t use in dangerous environment. Don't use
power tools in damp or wet locations, or expose
them to rain. Keep work area well lighted.
32. Check the workpiece carefully for splits, knots
or other obstructions which may cause a safety
risk while turning.
33. Adjust the tool support to the proper height and
position for the work. Rotate the workpiece by
hand to check clearance with the tool support.
34. Select the appropriate speed for the turning job
at hand. Start at low speed and allow the Lathe
to ramp up to operating speed.
35. Never stop a rotating workpiece with your hand.
36. If gluing up a workpiece, always use a highquality glue of the type necessary for that
particular workpiece.
WARNING: This product can expose you to
chemicals including lead and cadmium which
are known to the State of California to cause
cancer and birth defects or other reproductive
harm, and phthalates which are known to the
State of California to cause birth defects or other
reproductive harm. For more information go to
http://www.p65warnings.ca.gov.
WARNING: Drilling, sawing, sanding or
machining wood products generates wood dust
and other substances known to the State of
California to cause cancer. Avoid inhaling dust
generated from wood products or use a dust
mask or other safeguards for personal
protection.
Wood products emit chemicals known to the
State of California to cause birth defects or other
reproductive harm. For more information go to
http://www.p65warnings.ca.gov/wood.
Familiarize yourself with the following safety notices used in this manual:
This means that if precautions are not heeded, it may result in minor injury and/or possible
machine damage.
This means that if precautions are not heeded, it may result in serious, or possibly even fatal,
injury.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
1.1 Switch lockout
It is recommended that a padlock (not provided)
be used with the on/off switch atop the inverter, to
prevent unauthorized use of the machine.
Push switch to OFF, insert padlock through holes
and lock it. Store key in a safe place.
Figure 1-1
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2.0 About this manual
This manual is provided by Powermatic covering the safe operation and maintenance procedures for a Model
PM2014 Lathe. This manual contains instructions on installation, safety precautions, general operating
procedures, maintenance instructions and parts breakdown. This machine has been designed and constructed
to provide consistent, long-term operation if used in accordance with instructions set forth in this manual.
This manual is not intended to be a complete instruction guide for woodturning practices, choice of stock, use of
after-market accessories, etc. Additional knowledge may be obtained from experienced users or trade articles.
Whatever accepted methods are used, always make personal safety a priority.
If there are questions or comments about this product, please contact your local supplier or Powermatic.
Powermatic can also be reached at our web site: www.powermatic.com.
Retain this manual for future reference. If the machine transfers ownership, the manual should accompany it.
Register your product using the mail-in card provided, or register online:
2.0 About this manual .......................................................................................................................................... 4
3.0 Table of Contents ........................................................................................................................................... 5
4.1 Mounting pattern for PM2014 Lathe ........................................................................................................... 8
5.0 Features and Terminology ............................................................................................................................. 9
6.0 Setup and Assembly .................................................................................................................................... 10
8.2 Tool support ............................................................................................................................................. 13
8.9 Sheave and belt alignment ....................................................................................................................... 15
8.10 Sheave/drive belt replacement ............................................................................................................... 15
9.1 Power switch ............................................................................................................................................ 16
10.4 Face plate and bowl turning ................................................................................................................... 20
14.0 Recommended lathe speeds (per diameter of workpiece) ......................................................................... 26
15.0 Replacement parts ..................................................................................................................................... 26
17.0 Warranty and Service ................................................................................................................................. 37
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4.0 Specifications
Table 1
Model number
Stock numbers
Motor and Electricals
Type Totally-enclosed, fan-cooled
Horsepower 1 HP
Motor phase 3 PH
Motor
Input power requirements 1-phase, 120-volt
Drive system Poly V belt, E-type inverter drive, 3-step pulley
Operating switch Remote with magnetic base
VFD input amperage 13A, 1PH
VFD output to motor 3A (3PH)
Power cord and plug SJT 3x14AWG 300V, 7 ft., 5-15P
Remote switch cord AWM 24AWG 300V, 6-1/2 ft.
Recommended circuit size 1 15 A
Sound emission without load 2 75 dB at 20 inches (508mm) from motor
Capacities
Working distance between centers
Maximum distance between spindle face and tailstock quill 23 in. (584 mm), stop bolt removed
Working distance between centers with 13” optional bed
extension mounted
Inboard
turning
Outboard
turning
Headstock and spindle
Spindle speeds (3 belt positions) Variable: 15~900, 30~1800, 60~3600 RPM
Spindle thread size 1-1/4 in. (31.75 mm) x 8 TPI, RH threads
Spindle direction Forward/reverse
Headstock spindle taper #2 Morse
Hole through headstock spindle, diameter 3/8 in. (9.5 mm)
Indexing 24 positions (15° workpiece rotations), positive locking
Faceplate diameter 3 in. (76.2 mm)
Tailstock
Tailstock quill taper #2 Morse
Hole through tailstock quill, diameter 3/8 in. (9.5 mm)
Tailstock quill travel 4-1/4 in. (108 mm)
Tailstock quill thread ACME 5/8 in-11
Tool rest
Tool rest width 8 in. (204 mm)
Tool rest post diameter 1 in. (25.4 mm)
Tool rest locking Bushing
Motor voltage 230 V
Cycle 60 Hz
Motor speed 1720 RPM
Listed FLA (full load amps) 3 A
Swing over bed 14-1/4 in. (362 mm)
Swing over toolrest base 10-3/4 in. (273 mm)
Recommended maximum spindle load
Swing over optional 13in. bed extension in low
position
Swing over toolrest base on optional 13in. bed
extension in low position
Lathe 1792014
Stand (optional accessory) 1792014S
3
PM2014
19-1/4 in. (489mm) stop bolt installed
20-1/4 in. (514.4mm), stop bolt removed
32-1/4 in. (819mm) with stop bolts installed
356 kg (786 lbs.) at 100mm (4 in.) from spindle flange
20-1/4 in. (514 mm)
16-3/4 in. (425 mm)
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Main materials
Headstock body Cast iron
Tailstock body Cast iron
Bed Cast iron
Tool rest Ductile iron, FCD45
Tool rest base Cast iron
Spindle S45S
Tailstock quill S45C
Face plate Cast iron
Dimensions
Overall size
assembled
LxWxH
Distance floor to spindle centerline, lathe on optional stand
Lathe only 52 x 24 x 18 in. (1321 x 610 x 457 mm)
Lathe with optional stand at highest position
Lathe with optional stand at lowest position
52 x 25 x 48.5 in. (1321 x 635 x 1232 mm)
52 x 25 x 38 in. (1321 x 635 x 965 mm)
34~44-1/2 in. (864~1130 mm)
(adjustable using levelers)
Bed gap 1-3/4 in. (45 mm)
Bed width 7 in. (178 mm)
Shipping dimensions
LxWxH
Lathe 870 x 480 x 580 mm (33.25 x 18.9 x 22.83 in.)
Stand (optional)650 x 700 x 350 mm (25.59 x 27.56 x 13.78 in.)
Bed extension (optional)300 x 350 x 200 mm (11.81 x 13.78 x 7.84 in.)
Weights
Lathe
Stand (optional)
13-in. Bed extension
(optional)
1
Subject to local/national electrical codes.
2
The specified values are emission levels and are not necessarily to be seen as safe operating levels. As workplace
Net weight 183 lbs. (83 kg)
Shipping weight 205.7 lbs. (93.5 kg)
Net weight 55 lbs. (25 kg)
Shipping weight 63.8 lbs. (29 kg)
Net weight 29 lbs. (13 kg)
Shipping weight 30.8 lbs. (14 kg)
conditions vary, this information is intended to allow the user to make a better estimation of the hazards and risks
involved only.
3
Recommended loading information; does not encompass all types of outboard activity. CAUTION: If you suspect a
workpiece could result in overweighting of the spindle or instability of the lathe, do NOT attempt to use it.
L = length, W = width, H = height
Items listed as “optional” are purchased separately.
The specifications in this manual were current at time of publication, but because of our policy of continuous
improvement, Powermatic reserves the right to change specifications at any time and without prior notice, without
incurring obligations.
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4.1 Mounting pattern for PM2014 Lathe
If you are not using the accessory Powermatic stand, use this hole pattern in your workbench for securing the
PM2014. Workbench holes will be clearance holes for 5/16” screws.
Holes in lathe base are threaded 5/16”-18, 3/4 in. deep. Only four of the holes need be used when mounting to
a workbench.
Use four 5/16”-18 bolts of appropriate length with washers; insert through workbench and into lathe base.
Figure 4-1: mounting pattern for workbench
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5.0 Features and Terminology
1. Headstock
2. Motor, 1HP
3. Handwheel
4. Indexing pin
5. Motor tension handle
6. Motor tension lock handle
7. Spindle lock
8. Face plate, 3in.
9. Bed
10. Warning label
11. Tool rest base
12. Tool rest, 8in.
13. Tool rest locking handle
14. Tool rest base locking handle
15. Remote switch box
16. Tailstock
17. Tailstock handwheel
18. Hole through tailstock spindle
Figure 5-1: features and terminology
19. Tailstock spindle locking handle
20. Tailstock spindle
21. Tailstock locking handle
22. Stud (x2)
23. Live cone center
24. Spur center
25. Spindle
26. Variable frequency drive (Inverter)
27. Headstock locking handle
28. Bed ways
30. ID/serial no. label
31. Motor label
32. Mounting holes for optional bed extension
33. Pulley cover (with belt change graphic)
34. Toggle switch
35. Tool caddy
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Read and understand the entire
contents of this manual before attempting setup or operation. Failure to comply may cause
serious injury.
NOTE: Figures in this manual may show the lathe
with optional accessories, which are purchased
separately.
6.0 Setup and Assembly
6.1 Unpacking
Open shipping container and check for shipping
damage. Report any damage immediately to your
distributor and shipping agent. Do not discard any
shipping material until the Lathe is assembled and
running properly.
Compare the contents of your container with the
following parts list to make sure all parts are intact.
Missing parts, if any, should be reported to your
distributor. Read the instruction manual thoroughly
for assembly, maintenance and safety instructions.
6.2 Contents of shipping container
See Figure 6-1.
1 Lathe with headstock, tailstock, and tool rest
base (not shown)
1 Knockout rod
1 Face plate 3in.
1 Face plate wrench
1 Toolrest, 8in.
1 Spur center 1in.
1 Cone live center
2 Socket head cap screws, 3/8 x 1-1/4
2 Flat washers, 3/8
1 Tool caddy
1 Owner's manual (not shown)
1 Product registration card (not shown)
Figure 6-1: accessories included
6.3 Tools required for assembly
8mm hex key (“Allen wrench”)
The Lathe must be discon-
nected from power during assembly. Use an
assistant or a hoist to help lift items.
1. Remove any screws or straps that hold the
Lathe parts to the pallet, and remove protective
wrapping. Set all boxes containing accessories
to the side.
2. The Lathe should be located in a dry area, on a
sturdy bench or the Powermatic accessory
stand (#1792014S), and with sufficient lighting.
Leave plenty of space around the machine for
operations and routine maintenance work.
(If the accessory stand was purchased, refer to
the assembly instructions that accompany it.)
3. Exposed metal areas of the Lathe, such as bed
ways and spindles, have been factory coated
with a protectant. This should be removed with
a soft cloth and a cleaner-degreaser. Clean the
bed areas under headstock, tailstock and tool
support base. Do not use an abrasive pad, and
do not allow solvents to contact painted or
plastic areas.
4. Apply a light coat of SAE10 oil to the exposed
metal areas to impede rust.
6.4 Tool caddy
The tool caddy may be mounted to the lathe bed
with the provided screws and washers. See Figure
5-1. It may also be mounted to the optional
extension bed.
6.5 #6294755 Bed extension
(OPTIONAL)
If you did not purchase the optional 13-inch bed
extension, proceed to sect. 6.6.
To mount bed extension to Lathe:
1. Slide tailstock away from edge of bed, and
unscrew stud (A, Figure 6-2).
2. Have an assistant hold bed extension flush to
end of Lathe bed, and insert four 3/8 x 1-3/4
socket head cap screws with lock washers and
flat washers (provided with extension bed)
through holes in bed extension into threaded
holes on Lathe (8mm hex wrench). Make
screws snug but do not fully tighten. See Figure
6-2.
3. Adjust extension bed to lathe bed, aligning top
surface and inside ways as closely as possible.
Make screws snug but do not fully tighten yet.
4. Slide tailstock over joint where beds meet, so
that clamping nut is centered over joint, as
shown in Figure 6-2. Firmly tighten tailstock
clamping handle; this will align the beds.
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IMPORTANT: Top surface of bed extension
must be flush with surface of lathe bed, and
inside ways must be aligned, to allow smooth
movement of tailstock across joint.
5. Tighten screws securely.
6. Unlock tailstock and slide it back and forth to
test smoothness of joint. Make any additional
adjustments as needed.
7. Install stud at end of bed extension.
Figure 6-2: optional 13” bed extension
Lower position:
If lathe is mounted to the optional Powermatic stand,
the bed extension may be mounted in lower
position. See Figure 6-17. Three screws will be used
instead of four.
Lower position is used for bowl turning when
headstock is at outboard end of lathe bed, as shown
in Figure 6-17. An optional toolrest post extension
(B, Figure 6-17) is included with the extension bed,
and can be used to elevate toolrest when using
extension bed in lower position.
Figure 6-3
6.6 Headstock utility holes
Figure 6-4: utility holes
7.0 Electrical connections
Electrical connections must be
made by a qualified electrician in compliance
with all relevant codes. This machine must be
properly grounded to help prevent electrical
shock and possible fatal injury.
The Lathe will operate on single phase, 120 volt
power supply. The Variable Frequency Drive, or
“inverter,” converts the incoming power to the
necessary input for the 3-phase motor.
It is recommended that the lathe be connected to a
15 amp circuit with circuit breaker or time delay fuse.
Local codes take precedence over recommendations.
7.1 GROUNDING INSTRUCTIONS
This machine must be grounded. In the event of a
malfunction or breakdown, grounding provides a
path of least resistance for electric current to reduce
the risk of electric shock. This tool is equipped with
an electric cord having an equipment-grounding
conductor and a grounding plug. The plug must be
plugged into a matching outlet that is properly
installed and grounded in accordance with all local
codes and ordinances.
Do not modify the plug provided - if it will not fit the
outlet, have the proper outlet installed by a qualified
electrician.
Improper connection of the equipment-grounding
conductor can result in a risk of electric shock. The
conductor with insulation having an outer surface
that is green with or without yellow stripes is the
equipment-grounding conductor. If repair or
replacement of the electric cord or plug is
necessary, do not connect the equipment-grounding
conductor to a live terminal.
Two M12-1.5P threaded holes are provided atop the
headstock, protected by rubber bungs. These holes
can be used to attach accessories (not provided),
such as lighting, guarding or dust collection. Use a
flat blade screwdriver to unscrew the bungs. Note:
The holes should remain covered if not being used,
to prevent debris from entering the headstock.
Check with a qualified
electrician or service personnel if the grounding
instructions are not completely understood, or if
in doubt as to whether the tool is properly
grounded. Failure to comply may cause serious
or fatal injury.
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Use only 3-wire extension cords that have 3-prong
grounding plugs and 3-pole receptacles that accept
the tool's plug.
Repair or replace damaged or worn cord
immediately.
This tool is for use on a nominal 120-V circuit, and
has a grounded plug that looks like the plug
illustrated in sketch A in Figure 7-1. A temporary
adaptor that looks like the adaptor illustrated in
sketches B and C may be used to connect this plug
to a 2-pole receptacle as shown in sketch B if a
properly grounded outlet is not available.
The temporary adaptor should be used only until a
properly grounded outlet (sketch A) can be installed
by a qualified electrician. The green colored rigid
ear, lug, or the like extending from the adaptor must
be connected to a permanent ground such as a
properly grounded outlet box cover. Whenever the
adaptor is used, it must be held in place by a metal
screw.
In Canada, the use of a temporary adaptor is not
permitted by the Canadian Electrical Code, C22.1.
Figure 7-1: plug configuration
7.2 Extension cords
The use of extension cords is discouraged; try to
position machines near the power source. If an
extension cord is necessary, make sure it is in good
condition. When using an extension cord, be sure to
use one heavy enough to carry the current your
product will draw. An undersized cord will cause a
drop in line voltage resulting in loss of power and
overheating. Table 2 shows correct size to use
depending on cord length and nameplate ampere
rating. If in doubt, use the next heavier gauge. The
smaller the gauge number, the heavier the cord
8.0 Adjustments
8.1 Headstock/tailstock movements
To slide headstock or tailstock, loosen locking
handle (A, Figure 8-1) until head/tailstock can slide
freely. When head/tailstock is positioned, swing
locking handle until it tightens securely.
To remove headstock, tailstock or tool support base
from bed, unscrew and remove stud at either end
(B, Figure 8-1). NOTE: After re-mounting these
items on the Lathe, always insert stud.
Figure 8-1: headstock, tailstock, tool support
Inboard turning:
For most spindle turning operations, the headstock
will be positioned at left end of bed, and only the
tailstock moved to accommodate the workpiece.
Loosen locking handle (C, Figure 8-1) to advance or
retract tailstock quill by rotating handwheel (D).
Retighten handle (C) before operating lathe. Lock tailstock in position before operating.
Outboard turning:
For outboard turning, remove tailstock and tool rest
assembly from bed, and slide headstock to opposite
end of bed, as shown in Figure 8-2. Lock headstock in position before operating.
Amp Rating Volts Total length of cord in feet
More
Than
Not
More
Than
0 6 18 16 16 14
6 10 18 16 14 12
10 12 16 16 14 12
12 16 14 12
120 25 50 100 150
AWG
Not
Recommended
Extension Cord Recommendations
Table 2
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Figure 8-2: outboard turning position
Page 13
8.2 Tool support
An 8-inch toolrest is provided with your Lathe. It
allows adjustment for height, position on the bed,
and angle to the work.
Loosen locking handle (E, Figure 8-1) to slide
support base forward or back, and angle it to the
bed. Tighten locking handle securely before
operating Lathe.
Loosen small handle (F, Figure 8-1). Make sure
clamp bushings (inset, Figure 8-1) are spread apart
sufficiently to accept tool support post.
Adjust height of tool support and angle it to the work.
Tighten handle (F) before operating Lathe.
NOTE: Locking handle (F) and clamp bushings can
be removed from hole and inserted from opposite
side for convenience.
8.3 Cam tightness
If headstock, tailstock or tool rest base does not
properly tighten down against bed when locking
handle is tightened, adjust as follows. Figure 8-3
uses tailstock as example.
1. Unscrew and remove stud, and slide tailstock
off end of bed.
2. Turn tailstock on its side, and tighten lock nut
with a wrench. See Figure 8-3.
3. Mount tailstock on bed and test the adjustment.
When adjustments are complete, re-insert stud
at end of bed.
8.4 Locking handles
Locking handles, such as C and F, Figure 8-1, can
be rotated to more convenient position. Lift up on
handle, rotate it on pin, then release it, making sure
it seats on pin.
a spindle blank with a router, while the spindle blank
is secured between lathe centers. Numbers 1
through 24 are inscribed on top sheave (K, Figure
8-4) for reference. When lathe is powered, however,
the LED display can be used for rapid locating of
index positions, as follows.
1. Connect lathe to power source.
2. Push index button (G, Figure 8-4). The LED
display will change from RPM setting to index
setting.
3. Use handwheel (H) to rotate workpiece to
desired position.
4. Push in index pin (J, Figure 8-4) and rotate
workpiece slightly until pin engages hole. Then
screw index pin (J) further into headstock to
lock spindle.
5. Cut first flute in workpiece.
6. Push index button (G) to set engaged index
position at zero.
7. Unscrew index pin (J) to release spindle, then
rotate workpiece until next desired hole shows
on readout.
8. Engage index pin, and rout second flute.
Continue the process.
Example: If 6 evenly-spaced flutes are needed
around full workpiece circumference, use
positions 0, 8, 16, 24, 32, and 40.
IMPORTANT: When finished indexing, unscrew
and release index pin before turning on spindle.
The LED display will revert to RPM setting when
lathe spindle is turned on.
Figure 8-3: cam adjustment
8.5 Indexer
The indexer has 24 evenly spaced holes concentric
to the spindle, and is used to create evenly spaced
features in a workpiece, while keeping the lathe
spindle locked; for example, when cutting flutes on
Figure 8-4: indexer
8.6 Centers: installing/removing
8.6.1 Headstock spur center
1. To install the spur center, the spur center
should first be mounted to your workpiece; see
sect. 10.3 for details). Clean tapered end of
center and inside of headstock spindle, then
push center into spindle.
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2. To remove the spur center, first remove
workpiece from Lathe. Insert knockout rod
(Figure 8-5) through hole in handwheel and
firmly tap tapered end of spur center.
IMPORTANT: Hold the center by either placing
thumb and forefinger on outside diameter of
spur center, or wrapping the center with a rag.
The center can be damaged if allowed to fall.
Figure 8-5: removing center from headstock
8.6.2 Tailstock live center
1. Clean the tapered end of center and the inside
of tailstock spindle.
2. Install the provided live center by pushing it into
tailstock spindle. It should resist any attempt to
pull it out by hand.
3. To remove the center from the tailstock, loosen
locking handle (C, Figure 8-6) and retract quill
by rotating handwheel counterclockwise until
center dislodges on its own. Hold the center
with one hand to prevent it from falling out of
spindle, which can damage it.
A drill chuck with #2 Morse taper (not provided) can
be mounted to the tailstock for end-drilling with a bit.
The hole through the tailstock can be used for deep
hole drilling, such as for a lamp spindle. A hollow
center (not provided) is mounted and an auger (not
provided) is passed through the tailstock into the
workpiece.
8.7 Face plate: installing/removing
1. Disconnect Lathe from power source.
2. Mount faceplate to your bowl blank.
3. Pull up spindle lock tab (Figure 8-7) and rotate
handwheel until lock engages spindle. Continue
holding tab in raised position.
4. Install faceplate onto threads of headstock
spindle and rotate clockwise hand-tight. When
the Lathe is turned on (forward rotation), the
rotational force will snug the faceplate even
farther onto the threads.
If at any time you will be
reversing spindle rotation, make sure the
two set screws in the faceplate are tight.
(One of these is shown in Figure 8-7.) Failure
to do this may cause faceplate to loosen
from headstock spindle.
5. Release tab to disengage lock. Note: Rotate
spindle slightly to ensure lock has disengaged.
6. To remove faceplate, back off the two set
screws (Figure 8-7) with 3mm hex wrench. Pull
up spindle lock tab and turn faceplate
counterclockwise with faceplate wrench, as
shown.
Failure to back off set
screws before attempting removal of
faceplate may result in damage to spindle
threads.
Figure 8-6: installing center in tailstock
Figure 8-7: installing/removing faceplate
8.8 Speed change
1. Disconnect Lathe from power source.
2. Pull open access door on headstock.
3. Loosen pivot lock handle (L, Figure 8-9) and lift
tension handle (M, Figure 8-9) to raise motor.
Tighten pivot lock handle (L, Figure 8-9) to hold
14
motor in raised position.
4. There should be sufficient slack in belt to
reposition it to the other steps on the sheaves.
The label on the access door shows the
required belt position. A similar graphic is
shown in Figure 8-8.
Page 15
5. Loosen pivot lock handle (L, Figure 8-9) and
lower motor to tension belt. Be sure that Vgrooves of belt seat properly in corresponding
grooves of sheave. Do not overtension; a very
light pressure on the tension handle (M) is
adequate to prevent belt slippage.
6. Tighten pivot lock handle (L).
Figure 8-8
8.9 Sheave and belt alignment
1. The motor and spindle sheaves are aligned by
the manufacturer, but if any service is
performed that affects their alignment it is very
important that they be realigned. To realign
them, loosen two set screws on spindle sheave
(one is shown at N, Figure 8-9) with a hex key,
and nudge spindle sheave into proper position.
Retighten both set screws.
2. When sheaves and belt are properly aligned,
there should be no unusual pulsing sounds or
noise coming from the belt.
8.10 Sheave/drive belt replacement
IMPORTANT: Replacing spindle sheave or belt can
be a challenging procedure. If you do not feel
confident performing this action, take the headstock
to an authorized Powermatic service center.
1. Disconnect lathe from power source.
2. Loosen lock handle (L, Figure 8-9) and lift
handle (M) to raise motor.
3. Tighten lock handle (L) to hold motor in raised
position. Slip belt off lower pulley.
4. Loosen two set screws on handwheel (P, Figure
8-9) with a 3mm hex wrench, and unscrew
handwheel off spindle (NOTE: Left-hand
threads; rotate clockwise to loosen).
5. Tap left end of spindle with a rubber mallet, or a
steel face hammer against a block of wood, to
push it to the right, just enough to remove
sheave or belt. (Never use a steel face hammer
directly against spindle.) Prevent the top
sheave from being forced into the
sensor/encoder assembly; if necessary loosen
sheave set screws and slide it to the left.
6. If replacing sheave, loosen two set screws (N,
Figure 8-9), and slide sheave off spindle. Install
new sheave, loosely securing the two set
screws at first. Make sure the sheave is
oriented properly.
7. Push spindle back into place. Make sure the
sensor collar is positioned over the sensor for
the digital readout to function.
8. Check for any spindle play or “runout” at this
point. If it exists, see sect. 13.0.
9. Reinstall handwheel and tighten set screws (P,
Figure 8-9).
10. Align new sheave (see sect. 8.9) then tighten
two set screws (N, Figure 8-9) securely on
sheave.
11. Loosen lock handle (L) and allow motor to
lower. Do not over-tension; a very light pressure
on tension handle (M) is adequate to prevent
belt slippage.
12. Tighten lock handle (L).
Figure 8-9: sheave/belt alignment
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9.0 Operating controls
9.1 Power switch
The toggle switch atop the inverter turns on/off
power to the lathe. The holes in the flanges allow
insertion of a padlock (not included) for additional
safety. See sect. 1.1.
9.2 Remote switch box
See Figure 9-1.
The switch box has a magnetic base, and may be
conveniently placed anywhere on the lathe body.
(A) LED Readout: Displays spindle speed when
lathe is operating. Displays indexing position when
lathe is stopped and index button (E) has been
pushed.
(B) Spindle start/stop: Push green button to
activate spindle; red to stop.
(C) Spindle direction: Can be activated while
spindle is turning – spindle will automatically slow to
a stop before reversing direction.
9.3 Variable frequency drive (inverter)
The PM2014 Lathe uses the latest technology in
A.C. inverter drives to provide infinitely variable
spindle speeds within the specified ranges. The
inverter controls the speed of the motor by varying
the frequency of the voltage supplied to the motor.
The inverter provides an acceleration ramp that
eliminates the shock of normal starting.
Also, a braking feature eliminates long coasting
periods after the Lathe is turned off.
The A.C. Inverter does not require any programming
– it is pre-programmed by the manufacturer. Use
only the controls on the switch box to operate
lathe.
If an inverter error occurs, the LED on the switch box
will show “Err”. Contact Powermatic technical
service at 1-800-274-6846.
A lightning strike or power
surge may cause the inverter to fail. When lathe
is not in use, disconnect power plug, or have a
3-pole disconnect installed on the power side.
When turning with a face plate,
make sure both set screws on the face plate are
tight (see Figure 8-7) before reversing spindle.
Failure to comply may cause face plate to spin
loose from spindle.
(D) Speed control dial: Always start Lathe at
lowest speed, with dial rotated all the way counterclockwise.
(E) Index button: Push to set index reference to
zero. See sect. 8.5.
Figure 9-1: operating controls
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10.0 Operation
The information which follows is general in nature
and not intended to be a complete course in wood
turning. Much knowledge can be gained by
discussions with experienced woodturners or by
consulting books, trade articles, and internet
forums. Above all, simple trial and error will aid in
developing proficiency in the craft.
10.1 Inspection
Before operating the lathe, check that everything is
in proper working order:
1. Level your machine; If using the optional stand,
adjust the leveling feet.
2. Check bearings; there should be no endplay or
spindle runout.
3. Check belt; it should be snug but not overly
tight.
4. Bed ways; keep clean, use steel wool to remove
any rust spots, and apply paste wax to prevent
buildup of rust and finishes.
5. Tool support; use a mill file to remove nicks and
dings.
6. Spindle tapers; should be clean and free of dust
and chips for proper seating of tapers.
7. Tailstock; clean and lubricate quill and locking
device.
8. Lighting; proper lighting is essential to eliminate
shadows and reduce eye strain.
10.2 Turning tools
If possible, select only fine quality, high-speed steel
turning tools. High-speed steel tools hold an edge
and last longer than ordinary carbon steel. As one
becomes proficient in turning, a variety of specialty
tools for specific applications may be acquired. The
following tools provide the basics for most
woodturning projects (see Figure 10-1):
Skews – 1-1/2" and 1" or 1-1/4", used to make
finishing cuts and details.
Large Roughing Gouge – 1" to 1-1/4", used to
eliminate waste wood.
Spindle Gouges – 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", used to turn
beads, coves and other details.
Deep Fluted Bowl Gouge – 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2",
used for turning bowls & plates.
Square Scraper (Bedan) – 3/8” or 1/2", used to
create square shoulders.
Large Round Nose (Domed) Scraper – 1-1/2",
used to reduce ridges on interior of bowls, round
edges of bowls, etc.
Parting Tool - 1/8", used for scraping, making a cutoff, or to set diameters for sizing.
Figure 10-1: Basic Turning Tools
For safety and best performance, keep tools sharp.
If a tool stops cutting or requires excessive pressure
to make a cut, it needs to be sharpened. A number
of brand name sharpening jigs and fixtures are
available; however, a woodturner should learn to
sharpen tools freehand.
For best results, use a slow speed grinder (1800
rpm) fitted with a 60-grit aluminum oxide wheel (for
shaping) and a 100-grit alum. oxide wheel (for final
sharpening and touchup). The grinder should be
located near your lathe and at a comfortable height.
A diamond dresser will keep the wheels true and
eliminate glazing.
Never allow the tool to rest in one place on the
wheel; keep it moving and use a light touch.
Carbon steel tools can overheat easily and should
be cooled frequently. If the edge turns blue, it has
lost its temper and should be ground past the blue
area. High-speed steel tools are not as likely to
overheat, but can be damaged if allowed to get red
hot. High-speed steel tools should not be quenched
for cooling. Honing with a diamond lap or slipstone
will save trips to the grinder and keep the edge
fresh.
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10.3 Spindle turning
Spindle turning takes place between the centers of
the lathe. It requires a spur or drive center in the
headstock and a live or dead center in the tailstock.
A cup center rather than a cone center in the
tailstock will often reduce the risk of splitting the
stock.
Figure 10-2 shows the basic profile shapes in
spindle turning.
Figure 10-2
10.3.1 Stock selection
Stock for spindles should be straight grained and
free of checks, cracks, knots and other defects. It
should be cut 1/8" to 1/4" larger than the finished
diameter and may require additional length so the
ends can be removed later. Larger stock should
have the corners removed to produce an octagon
making the piece easier to rough down to a cylinder.
1. With a combination square, or plastic center
finder for round stock, locate and mark center
on each end of the workpiece. Accuracy is not
critical on full rounds but extremely important on
stock where square sections are to remain. Put
a dimple in the stock with an awl or nail, or use
a spring-loaded automatic center punch.
2. Extremely hard woods may require kerfs cut
into the ends of the stock (Figure 10-3) using a
band saw, so the wood will accept the spur
center and the live center.
that you do not split the workpiece. Never use
a steel face hammer and never drive the
workpiece onto the spur center while it is
mounted in the Lathe spindle.
4. Make sure the headstock is locked to the Lathe
bed.
5. Clean the tapered end of the spur center and
the inside of the headstock spindle.
6. Insert the tapered end of the spur center (with
the attached workpiece) into the headstock
spindle.
7. Support the workpiece while bringing the
tailstock into position about 1” away from the
end of the workpiece. Lock the tailstock to the
bed.
Figure 10-4
8. Advance the tailstock spindle with the
handwheel in order to seat the live center into
the workpiece. Use enough pressure to secure
the workpiece between the centers so that it
won’t fly off, but do not use excessive pressure.
9. Tighten the spindle locking handle.
Figure 10-3
3. Drive the spur center about 1/4” into the
workpiece, using a wood mallet or dead blow
hammer as shown in Figure 10-4. Be careful
The tailstock ram is
capable of exerting excessive pressure
against the workpiece and the headstock.
Apply only sufficient force with the tailstock
to hold the workpiece securely in place.
Excessive pressure can overheat center
bearings and damage both workpiece and
Lathe.
10. Move tool support into position. It should be
parallel to the workpiece, just below the
centerline and approximately 1/8" to 1/4" from
the corners of the workpiece to be turned, as in
Figure 10-5. Tighten support base to Lathe bed.
11. Rotate workpiece by hand to check for proper
clearance.
12. Start lathe at lowest speed and bring it up to the
appropriate RPM for the size of workpiece
used. Consult digital readout on the headstock.
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Figure 10-5
10.3.2 Cutting techniques
Roughing out
1. Begin with a large roughing gouge. Place the
tool on the tool support with the heel of the tool
on the surface to be cut.
2. Slowly and gently raise tool handle until cutting
edge comes into contact with the workpiece.
3. Beginning about 2” from the tailstock end of the
workpiece, roll the flute (hollowed-out portion)
of the tool in the direction of the cut. See Figure
10-6. Make long sweeping cuts in a continuous
motion to rough the piece down to a cylinder.
Beads
1. Make a parting cut for what is to be a bead to
the desired depth. Place the parting tool on the
tool support and move tool forward to make the
full bevel of the tool come into contact with the
workpiece. Gently raise handle to make cut to
the appropriate depth.
2. Repeat for other side of the bead.
3. Using a small skew or spindle gouge, start in
the center between the two cuts and cut down
each side to form the bead. Roll the tool in
direction of cut.
Coves
1. Use a spindle gouge. With the flute of the tool
at 90 degrees to the workpiece, touch the point
of the tool to the workpiece and roll in towards
the bottom of the cove. See Figure 10-7. Stop
at the bottom; attempting to go up the
opposite side may cause the tool to catch.
2. Move the tool over the desired width of the
cove.
3. With the flute facing the opposite direction,
repeat step 1 for other side of cove. Stop at
bottom of cut.
Figure 10-6: roughing out
4. Keep as much of the bevel of the tool as
possible in contact with the workpiece to ensure
control and avoid catches. NOTE: Always cut
down-hill, or from large diameter to small
diameter. Always work toward the end of a
work-piece, never start cutting at the end.
5. Once the workpiece is roughed down to a
cylinder, smooth it with a large skew. Keep the
skew handle perpendicular to the spindle and
use only the center third of the cutting edge for
a long smoothing cut (touching one of the points
of the skew to the spinning workpiece may
cause a catch and ruin the workpiece).
6. Add details to the workpiece with skew, parting
tool, scraper or spindle gouge.
Figure 10-7: coves
"V" Cuts
1. Use the long point of the skew. (NOTE: Do not
press the long point of the skew directly into the
workpiece to create the "V"; this will result in a
burned or burnished "V" with fibers being rolled
up at both sides.)
2. Lightly mark the center of the "V" with the tip of
the skew.
3. Move the point of the skew to the right half of
the desired width of your cut.
4. With the bevel parallel to the right side of the
cut, raise the handle and push the tool in to the
desired depth, as shown in Figure 10-8.
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Figure 10-8: V-cuts
5. Repeat from the left side. The two cuts should
meet at the bottom and leave a clean "V" cut.
6. Additional cuts may be taken to add to either the
depth or width of the cut.
Parting Off
1. Use parting tool.
2. Adjust lathe speed to lower RPM for parting
through a workpiece.
3. Place tool on tool support and raise the handle
until it starts to cut and continue to cut toward
the center of the workpiece.
4. Loosely hold on to the piece in one hand as it
separates from the waste wood.
10.3.3 Sanding and Finishing
Leaving clean cuts will reduce the amount of
sanding required. Move the tool support out of the
way, adjust the lathe to a low speed, and begin with
fine sandpaper (120 grit or finer). Coarser
sandpaper will leave deep scratches that are difficult
to remove, and dull crisp details on the spindle.
Progress through each grit without skipping grits (for
example, do not jump from 120 grit to 220 grit). Fold
the sandpaper into a pad; do not wrap sandpaper
around your fingers or the workpiece. To apply a
finish, the workpiece can be left on the lathe.
Turn off the lathe and use a brush or paper towel to
apply the finish. Remove excess finish before
restarting lathe. Allow to dry and sand again with
320 or 400 grit sandpaper. Apply second coat of
finish and buff.
10.4 Face plate and bowl turning
Face plate turning is normally done on the inboard
side of the headstock over the bed. Larger
workpieces must be turned on the outboard side
(remove tailstock and tool support base, and move
headstock to opposite end of bed).
10.4.1 Mounting stock
Use of a face plate is the most common method for
holding a block of wood for turning bowls and plates:
1. Select stock at least 1/8" to 1/4" larger than
each dimension on the finished workpiece.
2. Always select the largest diameter face plate
that can be used for the workpiece to be turned.
3. True one surface of the workpiece for mounting
against the face plate.
4. Using the face plate as a template, mark the
location of the mounting holes on the
workpiece, and drill pilot holes of the
appropriate size. Face plates are drilled for No.
12 screws. (Phillips and square drive screws
will hold up better than slotted screws. Sheet
metal screws are case hardened with deeper
and sharper threads than wood screws.)
If the mounting screws on the face plate interfere
with the workpiece, a glue or waste block can be
used:
5. Make a block the same diameter as the face
plate, Figure 10-9. Both waste block and
workpiece should have flat surfaces for gluing.
6. Glue the block to the workpiece. Avoid using
brown paper or newspaper between the waste
block and workpiece. It may work fine if you are
using scrapers, but a slight catch with a bowl
gouge can separate the two.
NOTE: When using a waste block, be careful with
the adhesive you select. Dry workpieces can be
bonded with ordinary white or yellow glue but must
be clamped to ensure a good bond. Green
workpieces require cyanoacrylate type glue.
Figure 10-9: faceplate mounting
10.4.2 Faceplate or chuck?
While faceplates are the simplest, most reliable
method of holding a block of wood for turning,
chucks can also be used. As there are dozens of
chucks to choose from, the woodturner should first
consider all the different types of turning that will be
done, and read reports or discuss with other turners
who own chucks before making a decision.
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A chuck is not a requirement, but is handy when
working on more than one piece at a time. Rather
than removing screws, you simply open the chuck
and change workpieces.
The most popular ones are four jaw scroll chucks
with a variety of jaws to accommodate different size
tenons. Most also come with a screw chuck as well.
10.4.3 Wood selection
Firewood is the cheapest, most widely available
stock to use while learning to turn bowls. Simply
waste wood for a while practicing turning
techniques. Develop skill with each tool before
attempting to make a finished piece. It is best to start
with dry wood, without worrying about drying or
distortion. Once turning becomes comfortable, try
green wood which cuts very easily. As the turner
gains experience, he or she will find extraordinary
grain and figure in the form of burls, crotches and
bark inclusions.
10.4.4 Checks and cracks
Green wood will check and crack. For best results,
leave logs in as long a length as you can handle. As
the material starts to dry, surface cracks will develop
on the ends of the log. Cut off two to three inches
and you should find good, sound wood. Also cut the
log in half along the pith to avoid having it in the
finished piece. Most checks radiate from the pith.
As you turn bowls from green wood, make sure you
maintain a consistent wall thickness throughout the
piece. Leaving a piece thick in some areas and thin
in others will cause the wood to dry unevenly and
promote checks and cracks.
10.4.5 Distortion
Distortion is a problem associated with turning
green wood. It will vary from one type of wood to the
next. Typically, fruitwoods tend to distort more than
others. It also varies with the time of year the tree
was cut and how the logs are stored.
10.4.7 Bowl Turning Techniques
To Shape Outside of Bowl:
1. Odd shaped burls, crotches and other irregular
shaped blanks require special preparation
before mounting in a chuck or onto a faceplate.
Remove the bark, if there is any, from what
appears to be the center of the top of the
workpiece.
2. Drive spur center into the top of the workpiece
with a mallet or dead blow hammer.
3. Slip the spur center into the headstock taper
and bring the tailstock with a live or ball bearing
center into position. Lock the tailstock to the bed
and advance the tailstock spindle in order to
seat the cup center into the workpiece. Tighten
the ram locking handle.
4. Turn workpiece by hand to ensure proper
clearance.
5. Start lathe at lowest speed and bring it up to the
maximum safe speed for the size of work to be
turned (see sect. 14.0). If the machine starts to
vibrate, lower the speed until vibration stops.
6. Rough out the outside of the bowl with the 1/2"
deep fluted bowl gouge, holding the handle of
the tool firmly against your hip. For best control,
use your whole body to move the gouge
through the workpiece.
7. As the bowl takes shape, work on the bottom
(tailstock end) to accomodate attaching a face
plate.
8. Turn a short tenon (about 1/8" long) the size of
the hole in the faceplate. See Figure 10-10. This
will allow centering the workpiece when the
faceplate is attached.
10.4.6 Tools for bowl turning
The deep fluted bowl gouge is the most essential
and versatile tool for most bowl and plate turning.
The bowl gouge is heavier and easier to control than
other types of gouges. It also allows removal of
wood much faster and with less vibration than other
gouges. Most average sized bowl work can be
accomplished with a 3/8" or 1/2" bowl gouge. A 1/4"
bowl gouge is best suited for smaller bowls and light
finishing cuts. Larger 3/4" and 1" bowl gouges are
only used for extremely large pieces.
Large domed scrapers can also be used to help
clean up the interior surfaces of bowls. A light touch
with the scraper slightly tilted will eliminate some of
the ridges occasionally left by an inexperienced
bowl gouge.
Figure 10-10
(NOTE: If you plan to use a chuck, turn a tenon
of the appropriate length and diameter to fit your
chuck.)
9. Stop the lathe, remove workpiece and attach
face plate or chuck (see sect. 10.4.1, Mounting Stock).
The surfaces of faceplate
and workpiece should mount flush to each
other.
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10. Finish turning the outside of bowl with 1/2" or
3/8" bowl gouge. Leave additional material at
base of bowl for support while turning interior.
This will be removed later.
To Shape Interior of Bowl:
1. Stop the lathe and move tailstock away. (You
may want to remove the center from the
tailstock to avoid bumping it with your elbow.)
2. Adjust tool support in front of the bowl just below
centerline, at a right angle to the lathe ways.
3. Rotate workpiece by hand to check clearance.
4. Face off top of bowl by making a light shearing
cut across the top of workpiece, from rim to
center.
5. Place 1/2" bowl gouge on tool support at center
of the workpiece with the flute facing top of
bowl. The tool handle should be level and
pointed toward the four o'clock position, as
shown in Figure 10-11.
Figure 10-11
6. Use the left hand to control cutting edge of
gouge, while right hand swings tool handle
around toward your body (Figure 10-11). The
flute should start out facing top of workpiece,
and rotate upward as it moves deeper into the
bowl to maintain a clean even curve. As the tool
goes deeper into the bowl, progressively work
out toward the rim. It may be necessary to turn
the tool support into the piece as you get deeper
into the bowl.
(NOTE: Try to make one, very light continuous
movement from the rim to the bottom of the
bowl to ensure a clean, sweeping curve through
the piece. Should there be a few small ridges
left, a light cut with a large domed scraper can
even out the surface.)
7. Develop wall thickness at the rim and maintain
it as you work deeper into the bowl (Once the
piece is thin toward the bottom, you cannot
make it thinner at the rim). When the interior is
finished, move the tool support to exterior to redefine bottom of bowl. (General rule of thumb:
the base should be approximately 1/3 the
overall diameter of the bowl).
8. Work the tight area around faceplate or chuck
with 1/4" bowl gouge.
9. Begin the separation with a parting tool, but do
not cut all the way through yet.
10.4.8 Sanding and finishing
1. Remove the tool support and adjust lathe speed
to approximately 500 RPM. High speed can
build friction while sanding and cause heat
check in some woods.
2. Begin with fine sandpaper (120 grit) and
progress through each grit, using only light
pressure. Coarser sandpaper tends to leave
deep scratches that are hard to eliminate. Use
power-sanding techniques to avoid concentric
sanding marks around your finished piece.
Avoid rounding over the rim and foot with
sandpaper; try to keep details crisp. Finish
sanding with 220 grit.
3. Remove sanding dust with tack rags or
compressed air and, with lathe turned off, apply
first coat of finish. Let stand for several minutes,
wipe off excess. Allow to dry before sanding
again with 320 or 400 grit sandpaper.
4. Turn lathe back on and continue the separation
cut almost all the way through the base. Stop at
about 3" and use a small fine tooth saw to
separate the bowl from the waste.
5. Apply second finish coat and allow to dry before
buffing.
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11.0 User-maintenance
Before doing maintenance on
the Lathe, disconnect it from the electrical
supply by pulling out the plug or switching off
the main switch. Failure to comply may cause
serious injury.
Maintenance on the PM2014 Lathe should be
performed at periodic intervals to ensure that the
machine is in proper working order, that all fasteners
are tight, and all necessary adjustments have been
made. Frequency of inspection will of course
depend upon how often the machine is used.
Some specific areas of attention:
Remove foreign matter from bed, faceplate and
spindle nose with a cleaner-degreaser.
Wipe a light coat of SAE10 oil on the lathe bed so
that headstock, tailstock and tool support base will
slide easily. Clean any rust spots that may develop
on the bed with a commercial rust remover.
Extend the tailstock quill and wipe on a light coat of
SAE10 oil with a soft rag. Avoid getting oil inside the
quill where the center is inserted.
Use compressed air or a vacuum in the headstock
interior, in order to keep sawdust and chips from
accumulating on belts and sheaves. CAUTION:
Wear safety glasses when using compressed
air.
Also blow off debris that accumulates on the
inverter. Do NOT disassemble inverter to clean.
Frequently clean out the tapers on both headstock
and tailstock. Commercially available taper cleaners
may be acquired from tool stores.
Check belt for wear or hard spots and replace as
required. Verify alignment of belt sheaves.
Check tightness of headstock, tailstock, and tool
rest when locked to bed. Make adjustments as
needed.
11.1 Additional servicing
Any other servicing should be performed by an
authorized service representative.
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12.0 Optional Accessories
Below are some of the accessory items available to enhance the functionality of your PM2014 lathe. These items
are purchased separately; contact your Powermatic dealer for more information.
6294755 – 13-inch bed extension with tool post riser
6294732 – Heavy duty outboard turning stand
6294700 – Tool rest extension
JWL1442-205 – 12-inch tool rest
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13.0 Troubleshooting PM2014 Lathe
Trouble Probable Cause Remedy
Motor fails to develop
full power.
Motor or spindle stalls
or will not start.
Excessive vibration. Workpiece warped, out of round, has
Lathe runs at one
speed only.
Tools tend to grab or
dig in.
Headstock moves
when applying
pressure with
Tailstock.
Tailstock moves when
applying pressure.
LED display does not
work.
Spindle has slight
wobble (runout)
Power supply line overloaded. Correct overload condition.
Electronic AC inverter is not
programmed properly, or is defective, or
there is loose wiring.
Dull tools. Keep tools sharp.
Tool support set too low. Reposition tool support height.
Tool support set too far from workpiece. Reposition tool support closer to
Improper tool being used. Use correct tool for operation.
Headstock not locked to bed. Tighten headstock locking handle.
Excessive pressure being applied by
tailstock (more than 500 lbs. of force).
Locking handle not tightened. Tighten locking handle.
Cam lock nut needs adjusting. Turn tailstock over and tighten cam lock
Lathe bed and tailstock mating surfaces
are greasy or oily.
Digital sensor out of position or
damaged.
Bearings are worn or damaged. Replace bearings.
Spindle is damaged. Replace spindle.
Table 2
Increase supply wire size.
800-274-6846.
Adjust or replace belt as needed.
fan.
Correct problem by planing or sawing
workpiece, or discard entirely and use
new workpiece.
levelers if using stand.
Contact Powermatic Technical Service
to help identify problem; 800-274-6846
workpiece.
Slide headstock to left end, then apply
pressure to workpiece with tailstock.
Apply only sufficient force with tailstock
to hold workpiece securely in place.
nut.
Remove tailstock and clean surfaces
with a cleaner/degreaser. Re-apply light
coat of oil to bed surface.
Open belt access door and inspect
sensor. Reposition or replace.
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14.0 Recommended lathe speeds (per diameter of workpiece)
Diameter of Work Roughing RPM General Cutting RPM Finishing RPM
Under 2” 1520 3000 3000
2” to 4” 760 1600 2290
4” to 6” 510 1080 1500
6” to 8” 380 810 1125
8” to 10” 300 650 900
10” to 12” 255 540 750
12” to 14” 220 460 640
14” to 16” 190 400 560
Table 3
15.0 Replacement parts
Replacement parts are listed on the following pages. To order parts or reach our service department, call 1-800274-6848 Monday through Friday, 8:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. CST. Having the Model Number and Serial Number of
your machine available when you call will allow us to serve you quickly and accurately.
Non-proprietary parts, such as fasteners, can be found at local hardware stores, or may be ordered from
Powermatic.
Some parts are shown for reference only, and may not be available individually.
1 ................ JML-3 ........................ Spur Center ............................................................. ...................................... 1
.................. JML-3A ...................... Center Point for Spur Center ................................... ...................................... 1
23 .............. PM2014-123 .............. Motor ....................................................................... ...................................... 1
.................. PM2014-MF .............. Motor Fan (not shown)............................................. ...................................... 1
.................. PM2014-MFC ............ Motor Fan Cover (not shown) .................................. ...................................... 1
74 .............. JWL1642-169 ............ Breaking Res istor .................................................... ...................................... 1
78 .............. PM2014-177 .............. Knock Out Rod ........................................................ ...................................... 1
13 .............. JWL1442-210A ......... Tool Support Rod .................................................... ...................................... 1
14 .............. PM2014-214 .............. Live Center Kit (includes #15 thru 17) ..................... ...................................... 1
15 .............. .................................. Cap .......................................................................... ...................................... 1
21 .............. JWL1440-220 ............ Lead Scre w .............................................................. ...................................... 1
95-4 ........... 6295915 .................... Control Pot Assembly .............................................. ...................................... 1
95-5 ........... 3520C-1415 .............. Control Switch ......................................................... ...................................... 1
Powermatic® warrants every product it sells against manufacturers’ defects. If one of our tools needs service or
repair, please contact Technical Service by calling 1-800-274-6846, 8AM to 5PM CST, Monday through Friday.
Warranty Period
The general warranty lasts for the time period specified in the literature included with your product or on the official
Powermatic branded website.
Powermatic products carry a limited warranty which varies in duration based upon the product. (See chart
below)
Accessories carry a limited warranty of one year from the date of receipt.
Consumable items are defined as expendable parts or accessories expected to become inoperable within a
reasonable amount of use and are covered by a 90 day limited warranty against manufacturer’s defects.
Who is Covered
This warranty covers only the initial purchaser of the product from the date of delivery.
What is Covered
This warranty covers any defects in workmanship or materials subject to the limitations stated below. This warranty
does not cover failures due directly or indirectly to misuse, abuse, negligence or accidents, normal wear-and-tear,
improper repair, alterations or lack of maintenance. Powermatic woodworking machinery is designed to be used with
Wood. Use of these machines in the processing of metal, plastics, or other materials may void the warranty. The
exceptions are acrylics and other natural items that are made specifically for wood turning.
Warranty Limitations
Woodworking products with a Five Year Warranty that are used for commercial or industrial purposes default to a
Two Year Warranty. Please contact Technical Service at 1-800-274-6846 for further clarification.
How to Get Technical Support
Please contact Technical Service by calling 1-800-274-6846. Please note that you will be asked to provide proof
of initial purchase when calling. If a product requires further inspection, the Technical Service representative will
explain and assist with any additional action needed. Powermatic has Authorized Service Centers located throughout
the United States. For the name of an Authorized Service Center in your area call 1-800-274-6846 or use the Service
Center Locator on the Powermatic website.
More Information
Powermatic is constantly adding new products. For complete, up-to-date product information, check with your local
distributor or visit the Powermatic website.
How State Law Applies
This warranty gives you specific legal rights, subject to applicable state law.
Limitations on This Warranty
POWERMATIC LIMITS ALL IMPLIED WARRANTIES TO THE PERIOD OF THE LIMITED WARRANTY FOR EACH
PRODUCT. EXCEPT AS STATED HEREIN, ANY IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS
FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE ARE EXCLUDED. SOME STATES DO NOT ALLOW LIMITATIONS ON HOW
LONG AN IMPLIED WARRANTY LASTS, SO THE ABOVE LIMITATION MAY NOT APPLY TO YOU.
POWERMATIC SHALL IN NO EVENT BE LIABLE FOR DEATH, INJURIES TO PERSONS OR PROPERTY, OR
FOR INCIDENTAL, CONTINGENT, SPECIAL, OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES ARISING FROM THE USE OF
OUR PRODUCTS. SOME STATES DO NOT ALLOW THE EXCLUSION OR LIMITATION OF INCIDENTAL OR
CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, SO THE ABOVE LIMITATION OR EXCLUSION MAY NOT APPLY TO YOU.
Powermatic sells through distributors only. The specifications listed in Powermatic printed materials and on the official
Powermatic website are given as general information and are not binding. Powermatic reserves the right to effect at
any time, without prior notice, those alterations to parts, fittings, and accessory equipment which they may deem
necessary for any reason whatsoever.
Product Listing with Warranty Period
90 Days – Parts; Consumable items
1 Year – Motors, Machine Accessories
2 Year – Woodworking Machinery used for industrial or commercial purposes
5 Year – Woodworking Machinery
NOTE: Powermatic is a division of JPW Industries, Inc. References in this document to Powermatic also apply to
JPW Industries, Inc., or any of its successors in interest to the Powermatic brand.
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427 New Sanford Road
LaVergne, Tennessee 37086
Phone: 800-274-6848
www.powermatic.com
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