The information printed within this publication includes the latest product information at time of print. The most recent
version of this Service Manual is available in electronic format at www.polarisdealers.com.
This Service Manual is designed primarily for use by certified Polaris Master Service Dealer technicians in a properly
equipped shop and should be kept available for reference. All references to left and right side of the vehicle are from
the operator's perspective when seated in a normal riding position.
Some procedures outlined in this manual require a sound knowledge of mechanical theory, tool use, and shop
procedures in order to perform the work safely and correctly. Technicians should read the text and be familiar with the
service procedures before starting any repair. Certain procedures require the use of special tools. Use only the proper
tools as specified. If you have any doubt as to your ability to perform any of the procedures outlined in this Service
Manual, contact an authorized dealer for service.
We value your input and appreciate any assistance you can provide in helping make these publications more useful.
Please provide any feedback you may have regarding this manual. Authorized dealers can submit feedback using 'Ask
Polaris'. Click on 'Ask Polaris', and then click on 'Service Manual/Service Literature Question'.
Consumers, please provide your feedback in writing to: Polaris Industries Inc. ATTN: Service Publications Department,
2100 Hwy 55, Medina, MN 55340.
reprinting or reuse of the depictions and/or procedures contained within, whether whole or in part, is expressly prohibited. Printed in U.S.A.
Page 2
UNDERSTANDING MANUAL SAFETY LABELS AND DIRECTIONS
WARNING
CAUTION
CAUTION
Throughout this manual, important information is brought to your attention by the following symbols:
SAFETY ALERT WARNING indicates a potential hazard that may result in severe injury or death to the operator,
bystander or person(s) inspecting or servicing the vehicle.
SAFETY ALERT CAUTION indicates a potential hazard that may result in minor personal injury or damage to the
vehicle.
CAUTION indicates special precautions that must be taken to avoid vehicle damage or property damage.
NOTE:
NOTE provides key information by clarifying instructions.
IMPORTANT:
IMPORTANT provides key reminders during disassembly, assembly and inspection of components.
TRADEMARKS
POLARIS ACKNOWLEDGES THE FOLLOWING PRODUCTS MENTIONED IN THIS MANUAL:
Loctite, Registered Trademark of the Loctite Corporation
Nyogel, Trademark of Wm. F. Nye Co.
Fluke, Registered Trademark of John Fluke Mfg. Co.
Mity-Vac, Registered Trademark of Neward Enterprises, Inc.
Torx, Re gist er ed Trademark of Textron
Some Polaris factory publications can be do wnloaded from www.polaris.com, purchased from www.purepolaris.com
* = digits that would transfer to 17 digit VIN and are used in digits 4-8 respectively
** = 9th digit will be used on color/featured versions of models (not including the base)
First 3 digits and 9th digit are used in model number only. They are not used with the 17 digit VIN.
MODEL
YEAR
12
13
CHASSISDRIVELINEENGINECATEGORYOPTION
V = RZRA = 2x4 Chain
Displacement in cc
(i.e. 17 = 170cc)
A = ORVA
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER
VIN Number Designation
Example: RF3VA17A6BT012516
Vehicle DescriptorsVehicle Identifiers
World Mfg. ID
Chassis
1234567891011121314151617
RF3VA17A6BT012516
Driveline
Engine Size
Engine Modifier
Category
Check Digit
Model Y ear *
Mfg. Location
Individual Serial No.
* Model Year: A = 2010; B = 2011; C = 2012; D = 2013
Engine Designation Number
S35C-Single Cylinder, Air/Oil Cooled, OHV 4 Stroke, Electric Start
Engine Serial Number Location
Whenever corresponding about an engine, be sure to refer to the engine
model number and serial number. This information can be found on the
sticker applied to the clutch-side engine case.
Unit Serial Number (VIN) and Emissions Decal Locations
A
B
C
GENERAL INFORMATION
The machine model information decal (A) and vehicle identification number (VIN) are important for identification. The
VIN number (B) is stamped on a portion of the front left frame rail close to the left front wheel.
1
The engine emissions decal (C) is attached to the frame support, accessib le through the front right wheel well.
NOTE: When ordering service parts be sure to use the correct parts manual.
NOTE: Polaris factory publications can be found at www.polarisindustries.com or purchased from
www.purepolaris.com.
R12VA17AA
R12VA17AC
R13VA17AA
R13VA17AB
99235839923584
99239809923981
Paint Codes
Painted PartColor DescriptionPolaris Number
Frame / Bumpers / RacksGloss BlackP-067
Plastic - Hood / Dash / Fenders
Indy Red
White
P-293
P-133
Replacement Keys
Replacement keys can be made from the original key. Polaris offers replacement key blanks (0453013) that can be cut
to match the original. Should both keys become lost, ignition switch replacement is required.
Special tools may be required while servicing this vehicle. Some of the tools listed or depicted are mandatory, while other
tools may be substituted with a similar tool, if available. Polaris recommends the use of Polaris Special Tools when
servicing any Polaris product. Dealers may order special tools through Polaris’ official tool supplier, SPX Corporation,
by phone at 1-800-328-6657 or on-line at
MODEL NUMBER: R12VA17AA / R12VA17AC
ENGINE MODEL:S35C
CategoryDimension / Capacity
Length85 in. / 216 cm
Width48 in. / 122 cm
Height55 in. / 139.7 cm
Wheel Base65 in. / 165 cm
Ground Clearance6 in. / 15.2 cm
Dry Weight500 lbs. / 227 kg
Gross Vehicle Weight840 lbs. / 381 kg
Maximum Weight
MODEL NUMBER: R13VA17AA / R13VA17AB
ENGINE MODEL:S35C
CategoryDimension / Capacity
Length85 in. / 216 cm
Width48 in. / 122 cm
Height55 in. / 139.7 cm
Wheel Base65 in. / 165 cm
Ground Clearance6 in. / 15.2 cm
Dry Weight500 lbs. / 227 kg
Gross Vehicle Weight840 lbs. / 381 kg
Maximum Weight
* More often under severe use, such as operated in water or under severe loads.
Page 2.6
Performance Synthetic
(PS-4) Extreme Duty Oil
AGL Plus Synthetic
Gearcase
Lubricant (PN 2873602)
Polaris Premium All
Season Grease (PN
2871423)
Add oil to proper level on
dipstick.
Fill reservoir between
MAX and MIN lines.
Add lube to bottom of fill
plug threads. 24 oz. (710
ml)
Locate grease fittings and
grease with grease gun.
MAINTENANCE
Change after 10 hrs, and
then every 50 hours, 6
months or 100 hours
thereafter; Change more
often in extremely dirty
conditions, or short trip
cold weather operation.
Fill as required. Change
brake fluid every 2 years.
Change annually***
Semi-annually**
2
**Semi-annually or 50 hours of operation (refer to Maintenance Schedule for additional information)
***Annually or 100 hours of operation (refer to Maintenance Schedule for additional information)
Perform the following pre-ride inspection daily, and when
servicing the vehicle at each scheduled maintenance.
• Tires - check condition and pressures
• Fuel tank - fill to proper level
• All brakes - check operation and adjustment
• Throttle - check for free operation and closing
• Running lights/Taillight/Brakelight - also check
operation of all indicator lights and switches
• Ignition switch - check for proper function
• Wheels - check for tightness of wheel nuts and
axle nuts; check to be sure axle nuts are secured
by cotter pins
• Air cleaner element - check for dirt; clean or
replace
• Steering - check for free operation noting any
unusual looseness in any area
• Loose parts - visually inspect vehicle for any
damaged or loose nuts, bolts or fasteners
• Check all front and rear suspension components
for wear or damage.
1. Locate the shift cable in the rear wheel well area.
2. Inspect shift cable, clevis pin, pivot bushing s, and dust
boot. Replace if worn or damaged.
3. If adjustment is required, loosen the lower jam nut and
pull the cable out of the mount to move the upper jam
nut.
Frame, Nuts, Bolts, and Fasteners
Periodically inspect the torque of all fasteners in
accordance with the maintenance schedule. Check that all
cotter pins are in place. Refer to specific fastener torques
listed in each chapter.
Shift Cable Inspection / Adjustment
Shift cable adjustment may be necessary if symptoms
include:
• Ratcheting noise on deceleration
• Inability to engage into a gear
• Excessive gear clash (noise)
• Gear selector moving out of desired range
4. Adjust the shift cables so there is an equal amount of
lever travel when shifting past the Neutral detent into
HIGH (H) and REVERSE (R).
5. Thread the upper jam nuts as required to obtain
proper cable adjustment without binding. There are
adjusters on the cables:
• If adjustment cannot be obtained, the adjusters on
the trans case should be set to center, and the
adjusters on the cables should be used to set the
adjustment
• The adjusters on the trans case can be used again
for subsequent adjustments
NOTE: This procedure may require a few attempts to
obtain the proper adjustment.
2.10
6. Once the proper adjustment is obtained, tighten the
lower jam nut against the mount.
7. Start engine and shift through all gears to ensure the
shift cable is properly adjusted. If transmission still
ratchets after cable adjustment, verify the idle RPM is
set correctly, otherwise the transmission may require
service.
Shift Cable Replacement
Shift cable replacement may be necessary if symptoms
include:
• Inability to engage a gear
• Inability to adjust cables for proper operation
• Gear selector moving out of desired range
1. Locate the shift cables in the rear wheel well area.
2. Loosen the lower and upper jam nuts and remove the
cables.
6. Loosen the lower and upper jam nuts and remo ve the
cables.
2
7. Inspect shift lever assembly. Replace parts as
required if worn or damaged.
8. Raise the vehicle and support it with jack stands in
order to access the underside to remove the cables.
IMPORTANT: It is important for reassembly to
document location of cable ties and routing prior to
removal.
3. Inspect shift cable arm. Replace if worn or damaged.
4. Remove the shift knob to prepare for seat panel
removal. Refer to Chapter 5.
5. Refer to Chapter 5 for console cover removal in order
to access the shift cable mount on the lever assembly .
9. Install new cables and adjust for proper oper ation and
lever travel without binding.
IMPORTANT: Do not allow cables to hang below
vehicle frame.
10. After installation, lower the vehicle, and then st art the
engine and shift through all gears to ensure the shift
cables are properly adjusted. If transmission still
ratchets after cable adjustment, verify the idle RPM is
set correctly, otherwise the transmission may require
service.
11. Reassemble the console cover, seats and shift knob
as outlined in Chapter 5.
It is recommended that the air filter be inspected as p art of
pre-ride inspection. If riding in extremely dusty conditions,
apply a small amount of grease to the seal under the air
box cap. In extremely dusty conditions, air filter cleaning
will be required more often.
NOTE: Service the filter more frequently if vehicle is
operated in wet conditions, dusty conditions or at
high throttle openings for extended periods.
1. Move or remove the storage bag. Remove the four
(4) access cover fasteners, and then remove the
access cover.
4. Clean the air box and remove any sediments/
contaminants.
5. Apply a small amount of commercially-available
chassis lubricant to the inner lip seal of the new air
filter. Install the filter and tighten the gear clamp.
6. Reinstall the air box cover and secure the spring clips.
7. Reinstall the access cover and storage bag.
2. Release the air box cover spring clips and remove the
cover. Verify the cover seal is not damaged.
3. Loosen the air filter gear clamp and remove the filter.
Discard the filter.
With the choke knob pushed in, verify the choke linkage is
not engaged at the carburetor . Pull the choke knob out and
verify there is 3/16" cable freeplay before the choke
linkage engages.
Free play adjustment is made by loosening the choke
cable bracket at the carburetor and moving the cable
barrel up or down in the bracket.
3. Remove the retaining screws and pull the choke
assembly out at the dash.
2
4. Raise the vehicle and support it with jack stands in
order to access the underside.
IMPORTANT: It is important for reassembly to
document location of cable ties and routing prior to
removal.
5. Pull the cable out from under the dash and the
underside of the vehicle.
IMPORTANT: Do not adjust the cable barrel higher
than flush with the bottom of the choke cable bracket.
After adjusting choke cable, pull choke knob out to full
choke position. Verify knob does not pull out of cable. If
knob pulls out of cable, decrease choke cable free play.
Choke Cable Replacement
The choke cable is replaced as an assembly.
1. With the engine off, place the vehicle in neutral and
apply the parking brake.
2. Remove the cable end from the carburetor.
6. Route the new cable from front-to-back, through the
retainers at the bottom of the frame, following the
routing noted during disassembly. Place cable ties at
the appropriate locations.
IMPORTANT: Do not allow cable to hang below
vehicle frame.
7. Reinstall the choke assembly into the dash. Handtighten fasteners sufficiently, using care not to overtighten.
8. Reinstall the choke cable onto the carburetor.
9. Adjust cable to desired freeplay.
If smooth choke operation is not obtainable, inspect for
kinks, sharp bends in the routing or a linkage obstruction.
2. Adjust idle speed by turning the slide adjustment
screw in (clockwise) to increase or out
(counterclockwise) to decrease RPM. (Refer to
illustration).
Stop turning at this point and note the screw setting.
Pilot Air Screw Base Setting:
2.25 turns out (initial)
Idle Speed
1700 ± 100
NOTE: Always check throttle cable freeplay after
adjusting the idle speed and readjust if necessary.
Pilot Air Screw Adjustment
The pilot air screw is calibrated at the factory to
meet EPA / CARB regulations for air quality
standards. Cleaning of the pilot circuit must be
performed by a certified repair shop to ensure
air quality standards are not exceeded.
1. Start the engine and verify (using a portable
tachometer) the idle speed is set to specification.
Always check throttle cable freepla y after adjusting
idle speed, and adjust if necessary.
Special Tool:
PA-47361
3. Slowly turn mixture screw counterclockwise until idle
speed returns to Idle RPM. Continue turning
counterclockwise until idle RPM begins to drop. Stop
turning at this point and note the screw setting
4. Center the mixture screw between points in S tep 2 and
3.
5. Readjust idle speed if not within specification.
2. Using ‘D’-shaped screwdriver S pecial Tool P A -47361
adjust the pilot air screw setting, turn the screw
clockwise until engine idle RPM begins to decrease.
The fuel valve is located on the passenger side of the
vehicle below the gas cap. Always turn off the fuel when
the vehicle is not in use.
4. Tighten drain screw.
5. Turn fuel valve to “ON” and check for fuel leaks.
6. Start engine and re–check for leaks.
Fuel Pump / Fuel Lines
NOTE: Thoroughly clean the exterior of all fuel
related components before servicing.
The RZR170 fuel pump is located in the right rear wheel
well.
Carburetor Draining
The carburetor float bowl should be drained before
extended periods of storage, or periodically to remove
accumulated moisture or sediment from the bowl.
1. Turn fuel valve to the ‘OFF’ position.
2. Place a container under the bowl drain hose.
3. Loosen drain screw and allow fuel in the float bowl and
fuel line to drain completely.
1. Check the fuel lines for signs of wear, deterioration,
damage or leakage. Replace if necessary.
2. Be sure fuel line is routed properly.
IMPORTANT: Make sure line is not kinked or pinched.
3. Replace fuel lines every two years.
NOTE: For all other information related to the fuel
System, refer to Chapter 4.
If the throttle pedal has excessive play because of cable
stretch or misadjustment, it will cause a delay in throttle
response. In addition, the throttle may not open fully . If the
throttle pedal has no play, the throttle may be hard to
control, and the idle speed may be erratic.
Check the throttle pedal play periodically in accordance
with the Periodic Maintenance Chart and adjust if
necessary.
Throttle Stop Speed Control
Use the following procedure to control how far the throttle
opens.
IMPORTANT: This procedure should be performed
by consumers only when they determine that their
child is capable of handling the additional speed.
2
1. Loosen the jam nut.
2. Turn the screw clockwise to increase speed or
counter-clockwise to reduce speed.
Maintain the oil level within the safe range on the dip stick.
Do not overfill.
To check the oil level:
1. Position the vehicle on a level surface.
2. Remove the dipstick and wipe it dry with a clean cloth.
Engine Oil Change
1. Position the vehicle on a level surface.
2. Clean area around the drain plug.
3. Run engine until warm.
4. Stop the engine.
Hot oil can cause serious burns to skin. Do not
allow hot oil to come in contact with skin.
5. Place a drain pan beneath the engine crankcase.
6. Remove the drain plug and pre-filter screen and a llow
the oil to drain completely.
3. Reinstall the dipstick completely.
4. Remove the dipstick and check the oil level.
NOTE: Rising oil level between checks in cool
weather driving, can indicate moisture collecting in
the oil reservoir. If the oil level is over the full mark,
change the oil.
5. Add the recommended oil as needed.
NOTE: Do not fill over the normal oil operating
range, because it could cause a mist of oil to enter
the air box.
7. Wash the oil pre-filter screen with solvent to remove
any debris. Allow the screen to air dry.
8. Inspect the O-ring on drain plug, replace if needed.
NOTE: The sealing surfaces on the drain plug and
crankcase should be clean and free of burrs, nicks
or scratches.
9. Reassemble the pre-filter screen and spring to the
pre-filter plug.
Page 37
MAINTENANCE
= T
10. Reinstall the drain plug, and torque to specification.
Crankcase Drain Plug:
18 ft-lbs (23 Nm)
11. Remove the dipstick. Add recommended oil making
sure not to overfill.
Recommended Engine Oil:
Performance Synthetic (PS-4)
Extreme Duty Oil
Capacity:
37 oz. (1.1 ltr)
12. Reinstall the dipstick.
13. Start the en gine an d allow it to idle for a sh ort pe riod .
Engine Crankcase Ventilation System
Inspection
The engine is equipped with a crankcase ventilation.
Follow the breather hoses from the airbox to the engine
and inspect the hoses for possible kinks or wear. The
hoses are form-fitted for a proper fit.
2
14. Stop the engine and inspect for leaks.
15. Check the oil level. Add oil as needed to bring the
level to the ‘Safe Range’ on the dipstick.
IMPORTANT: Over-filling engine crankcase will result
in oil entering the air box. Maintain the recommended
oil level.
NOTE: Make sure lines are not kinked or pinched.
Engine/Transmission Mount Locations
Periodically inspect engine/transmission upper and lower
mounts for cracks or damage.
IMPORTANT: Use of a compression tester adaptor
that is too long WILL CAUSE DAMAGE to the cylinder
head. The adaptor length should be no longer than
the length of the spark plug threads (1/2” or 12.07mm) .
Cylinder Compression
Standard: 130 - 160 psi
Cylind er Le akage
Service Limit: 15%
Inspect if leakage exceeds 15%
Intake Valve Clearance Adjustment
1. Remove the valve cover and secondary air pipe
assembly.
2. Verify cam lobes are pointed down.
3. Insert the correct thickness feeler gauge between end
of intake valve stem and adjuster screw.
4. When clearance is correct, hold adjuster screw and
tighten locknut securely.
5. Re-check the valve clearance.
6. Repeat adjustment procedure if necessary until
clearance is correct with locknut secured.
Valve Clearance:
.003” (.07 mm)
Exhaust Valve Clearance Adjustment
1. Remove the valve cover and secondary air pipe
assembly.
2. Verify cam lobes are pointed down.
3. Insert the correct thickness feeler gauge between end
of exhaust valve stem and adjuster screw.
4. Loosen locknut and turn adjuster screw until there is
a slight drag on feeler gauge.
5. When clearance is correct, hold adjuster screw and
tighten locknut securely.
6. Re-check the valve clearance.
7. Repeat adjustment procedure if necessary until
clearance is correct with locknut secured.
The fill plug is located on the side of the gearcase next to
the shift lever bell crank. The fluid level should be
maintained so it is even with the bottom of the fill plug hole.
Transmission Specifications
Specified Lubricant:
AGL Plus Synthetic Gearcase
Lubricant
(PN 2878068)
Approximate Capacity at Change:
23.7 oz. (700 ml)
FILL / LEVEL CHECK
P
LUG TORQUE
Fill / Level Plug Torque:
30-45 in-lbs (3-5 Nm)
Drain Plug Torque:
18 ft-lbs (24 Nm)
Transmission Oil Level Check:
• Be sure vehicle is positioned on a level surface
when checking or changing fluid.
• Check vent hose to be sure it is routed properly
and unobstructed.
1. Position vehicle on a level surface.
2. Remove the fill plug.
3. Add the recommended fluid through the fill plug hole
until it is even with the bottom of the check plug hole.
4. Reinstall the check/fill plug and torque to 30-45 in-lbs
(3-5 Nm) or tighten by hand sufficiently.
Transmission Oil Change:
1. Remove the level check plug (refer to “Lubricant
Level Check”).
2. Place a drain pan under the main gea rcase drain plug.
3. Remove the drain plug and allow to drain completely.
4. Clean the drain plug.
5. Reinstall the drain plug with a new o-ring and torque
to specification.
Transmission Drain Plug:
18 ft-lbs (24 Nm)
FINAL DRIVE / WHEEL AND TIRE
Wheel, Hub, and Spindle Torque Table
ItemNut TypeSpecification
Aluminum Wheels
Steel Wheels
Hub Retaining Nuts
(Front & Rear)
Lug Nut
(#1)
Flange Nut
(#2)
-40 ft-lbs (54 Nm)
30 ft-lbs (41 Nm)
+1/4 turn
27 ft-lbs (37 Nm)
2
6. Add the recommended fluid through the fill plug hole.
Maintain the fluid level even with the bottom of the fill
plug hole when filling. Do not overfill.
7. Reinstall the fill plug.
8. Check for leaks.
9. Discard the used lubricant properly.
NOTE: Do not lubricate the stud or the lug nut.
Wheel Removal
1. Position the vehicle on a level surface.
2. Place the transmission in gear and stop the engine.
3. Loosen the wheel nuts slightly. If wheel hub removal
is required, remove the cotter pin and loosen the hub
nut slightly .
4. Elevate the appropriate side of the vehicle by placing
a suitable jack and stand under the frame.
5. Remove the wheel nuts and remove the wheel.
6. If hub removal is required, remove the hub nut and
washers.
Wheel Installation
1. Verify the transmission is in gear.
2. Install the wheel hub, washers, and hub nut, if
previously removed.
3. Place the wheel in the correct position on the wheel
hub. Make sure the valve stem is toward the outside
and rotation arrows on the tire p oint toward forward
6. Torque the wheel nuts and/or hub nut to the proper
torque specification listed in the torque table at the
beginning of this section.
7. If hub nut was removed, install a new cotter pin after
the hub nut has been tightened.
Always replace tires when tread depth is worn to 1/8" (3
mm) or less.
Operating a RANGER 170 with worn tires will
increase the possibility of the vehicle skidding
easily with possible loss of control.
Worn tires can cause an accident.
If wheels are improperly installed it could affect
vehicle handling and tire wear. On vehicles with
tapered rear wheel nuts, make sure tapered end
Tire Inspection
• Improper tire inflation may affect vehicle
maneuverability.
• When replacing a tire always use original
equipment size and type.
• The use of non-standard size or type tires may
affect vehicle handling.
Tire Tread Depth
of nut seats properly into taper on wheel.
Always replace tires when the tread depth
measures 1/8", (.3 cm) or less.
Tire Pressure
Maintain proper tire pressure.
Refer to the warning tire pressure decal
applied to the vehicle.
Tire Pressure Inspection (Cold)
FrontRear
3 psi (20.7 kPa)3 psi (20.7 kPa)
Drive Chain Lubrication and Adjustment
Lubricate the drive chain with Polaris chain spray lube or
an approved chain lube at the interval specified in the
Periodic Maintenance Chart. Lubricate more often under
severe use, such as in dirty or wet conditions.
IMPORTANT: Washing the drive chain with a high
pressure washer or solvents can cause premature
wear and chain failure. Do not use a high pressure
washer or gasoline to clean the drive chai n. Operating
the vehicle with improper rear drive chain deflection
can result in severe damage to the transmission and
drive components. Always make sure the chain
adjusted within the stated specifications.
1. Check the amount of chain slack by moving the
vehicle slightly forward to gain slack at the top side of
the chain.
2. Raise the rear of the vehicle and support securely
under the mainframe. Allow the swing arm to hang at
full shock extension without touching the ground. This
establishes the tightest chain position.
3. Pull down on the chain tensioner to move it out of the
way , then measure chain deflection. It shou ld have 1/
4"-1/2" (6-12 mm) deflection.
7. Torque the chain adjuster locknuts. Hold the adjuster
stud securely while tightening the nut to avoid
breaking the stud.
Chain Adjuster Locknuts:
18 ft-lbs (25 Nm)
8. Torque the four rear housing mount bolts.
Rear Housing Mounting Bolts:
43 ft-lbs (60 Nm)
2
4. Loosen the four rear housing mount bolts ( two on each
end of axle).
5. Loosen the chain adjuster locknuts.
6. Turn the chain adjusters evenly to achieve 1/4"-1/2"
(6-12 mm) chain deflection.
Keep battery terminals and connections free of corrosion.
If cleaning is necessary, remove the corrosion with a stiff
wire brush. Wash with a solution of one t ablespoon baking
soda and one cup water . Rinse well with tap water and dry
off with clean shop towels. Coat the terminals with
dielectric grease or petroleum jelly.
Battery electrolyte is poisonous. It contains
sulfuric acid. Serious burns can result from
contact with skin, eyes or clothing. Antidote:
External: Flush with water.
Internal: Drink large quantities of water or milk.
Follow with milk of magnesia, beaten egg, or
vegetable oil. Call physician immediately.
Eyes: Flush with water for 15 minutes and get
prompt medical attention.
Battery Removal
1. Remove or pull the driver’s seat forward to access
the battery.
2. Disconnect the black (negative) battery cable.
3. Disconnect the red (positive) battery cable.
4. Remove the rubber strap and lift the battery out of th e
vehicle.
Batteries produce explosive gases.
Keep sparks, flame, cigarettes, etc. away.
Ventilate when charging or using in an enclosed
space. Always shield eyes when
working near batteries.
KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
NOTE: Batteries must be fully charged before use or
battery life will be reduced by 10-30% of full
potential. Charge battery for 3-5 hours at a current
equivalent to 1/10 of the battery’s rated amp/hour
capacity. Do not use the vehicle’s stator/alternator
to charge a new battery.
To reduce the chance of sparks: Whenever
removing the battery, disconnect the black
(negative) cable first. When reinstalling the
battery, install the black (negative) cable last.
Battery Installation
IMPORTANT: Using a new battery that has not been
fully charged can damage the battery and result in a
shorter life. It can also hinder vehicle performance.
Follow the battery charging procedure before
installing the battery.
1. Ensure the battery is fully charged.
2. Place the battery in the battery holder and secure with
rubber strap.
3. Coat the terminals with dielectric grease or petr oleum
jelly.
4. Connect and tighten the red (positive) cable first.
5. Connect and tighten the black (negative) cable last.
2.28
6. Verify th at cables are properly routed and reinst all the
driver’s seat.
Whenever the vehicle is not used for a period of three
months or more, remove the battery from the vehicle,
ensure that it's fully charged, and store it out of the sun in
a cool, dry place. Check battery voltage each month
during storage and recharge as needed to maintain a full
charge.
NOTE: Battery charge can be maintained by using a
Polaris battery tender charger or by charging about
once a month to make up for normal self-discharge.
Battery tenders can be left connected during the
storage period, and will automatically charge the
battery if the voltage drops below a pre-determined
point.
Battery Charging (Maintenance Free)
The sealed battery is already filled with electrolyte and has
been sealed at the factory. Never pry the sealing strip off
or add any type of fluid to this battery.
The single most important thing about maintaining a
sealed battery is to keep it fully charged. Since the battery
is sealed and the sealing strip cannot be removed, you
must use a voltmeter or multimeter to measure the DC
voltage at the battery terminals.
State of
Charge
25% - 50%
0% - 25%
VoltageAction
11.5 - 12.0
VDC
11.5 VDC or
less
Needs Charge
Needs Charge20 hrs
Charge
Time
At least 13
hrs, verify
state of
charge
Spark Plug Service
1. Clean plug area so no dirt or debris can fall into the
cylinder when the plug is removed.
A hot exhaust system and engine can cause serious
burns. Allow engine to cool or wear protective
gloves when removing the spark plug.
2. Remove the spark plug cap.
2
1. Check the battery voltage with a voltmeter or
multimeter. The battery voltage should read 12.8
VDC or higher.
2. If the voltage is less than 12.8 volts, charge the battery
at 1.2 amps or less until battery voltage is 12.8 VDC
or greater.
NOTE: When using an automatic charger, refer to
the charger manufacturer’s instructions for battery
charging directions. When using a constant current
charger, follow the guidelines in the following table:
State of
Charge
100%
75% 100%
50% - 75%
VoltageAction
12.8 - 13.0
VDC
12.5 - 12.8
VDC
12.0 - 12.5
VDC
None, check
again in 3
months
May need
slight charge,
check again in
3 months
Needs Charge 5 - 11 hrs
Charge
Time
None
Required
3 - 6 hrs
3. Remove spark plug.
4. Inspect electrodes for wear or carbon buildup. Look
for a sharp outer edge on the electrode, with no
rounding or erosion.
5. Clean with electrical contact cleaner or a glass bead
spark plug cleaner only. CAUTION: A wire brus h or
coated abrasive should not be used.
6. Measure gap with a wire gauge. Refer to
specifications in the following illustration for proper
spark plug type and gap. Adjust gap if necessary by
carefully bending the side electrode.
7. If necessary, replace spark plug with proper type.
CAUTION: Severe engine damage may occur if the
incorrect spark plug is used.
8. Apply anti-seize compound to the spar k plug threads.
9. Install spark plug and torque to specification.
STEERING
Steering Inspection
The steering components should be checked pe riodically
for loose fasteners, worn tie rod ends, ball joints, and
damage. Also check that all cotter pins are in place. If
cotter pins are removed, do not re–use, always use new
cotter pins.
Replace any worn or damaged steering components.
Steering should move freely through the entire range of
travel without binding. Check routing of all cables, hoses,
and wiring to be sure the steering mechanism is not
restricted or limited.
NOTE: Whenever steering components are
replaced, check front end alignment.
Steering Wheel Freeplay
Check the steering wheel for specified freeplay and
operation.
1. Position the vehicle on level ground.
Recommended Spark Plug:
NGK CR6HSA
Spark Plug Torque:
11 ft-lbs (15 Nm)
Engine To Frame Ground
Inspect engine ground cable connection. Be sure it is
clean and tight. The ground cable runs from the engine
starter motor to the ground terminal location under the
driver’s seat.
2. Lightly turn the steering wheel left and right.
3. There should be 0.8”-1.0” (20-25 mm) of freeplay.
4. If there is excessive freeplay or the steering feels
rough, inspect the following components.
• To check for play in the tie rod end, grasp the
steering tie rod and pull in all directions feeling for
movement.
• Elevate front end of machine so front wheels ar e
off the ground. Check for any looseness in front
hub and wheel assembly by grasping the tire firmly
at top and bottom first, and then at front and rear.
Try to move the wheel and hub by pushing inward
and pulling outward.
Toe Alignment Inspection
1. Place machine on a smooth level surface.
2. Set steering wheel in a straight ahead position and
secure the steering wheel in this position.
3. Place a chalk mark on the center line of the front tires
approximately 10” (25.4 cm) from the floor or as close
to the hub/axle center line as possible.
NOTE: It is important that the height of both marks
be equally positioned in order to get an accurate
measurement.
2
• If abnormal movement is detected, inspect th e h ub
and wheel assembly to determine the cause
(possible loose wheel nuts or loose front hub
components).
• Refer to Chapter 5 for front hub service
procedures.
4. Measure the distance between the ma rks and r ecord
the measurement. Call this measurement “A”.
5. Rotate the tires 180 by moving vehicle forward or
backward. Position chalk marks facing rearward,
even with the hub/axle center line.
6. Again measure the distance between the marks and
record. Call this measurement “B”. Subtract
measurement “B” from measurement “A”. The
difference between measurements “A” a nd “B” is the
vehicle toe alignment. The recommended vehicle toe
tolerance is 1/8” to 1/4” (.3 to .6 cm) toe out. This
means the measurement at th e front of the tire (A) is
1/8” to 1/4” (.3 to .6 cm) wider than the me asurement
at the rear (B).
If toe alignment is incorrect, measure the distance
between vehicle center and each wheel. This will tell you
which tie rod needs adjusting.
NOTE: Be sure steering wheel is straight ahead
before determining which tie rod(s) need
adjustment.
During tie rod adjustment, it is very important that
the following precautions be taken when
tightening tie rod end jam nuts.
If the rod end is positioned incorrectly it will not
pivot, and may break.
To adjust toe alignment:
• Hold tie rod end to keep it from rotating.
• Loosen jam nuts at both ends of the tie rod.
• Shorten or lengthen the tie rod until alignment is as
required to achieve the proper toe setting as
specified in Toe Alignment Inspection.
• IMPORTANT: When tightening the tie rod end jam
nuts, the rod ends must be held parallel to prevent
rod end damage and premature wear. Damage
may not be immediately apparent if done
incorrectly.
• After alignment is complete, torque jam nuts to
specification. Keep tie rod parallel to the mounting
surface.
SUSPENSION
Spring Preload Adjustment
The front and rear shock absorber springs are adjustable
by rotating the adjustment cam to change spring tension
preload.
Uneven adjustment may cause poor handling of the
vehicle, which could result in an accident and
serious injury or death. Always adjust all spring
preloads equally.
Suspension Spring Adjustment
1. Position the vehicle on a level surface and stop the
engine.
2. Raise and safely support the front or rear of the
vehicle off the ground to allow the suspension to fully
extend.
NOTE: The tires should not be touching the ground.
3. To adjust the shock spring preload, rotate the
adjustment cam clockwise to increase spring tension
or counter-clockwise to decrease spring tension using
the supplied spanner wrench.
Tie Rod Jam Nut:
12-14 ft-lbs (16-19 Nm)
2.32
Special Tool:
Shock Spanner Wrench
4. Each notch of the adjustment will add 6% - 8% more
preload to the spring over the primary position.
Always check the brake pedal travel and inspect the brake
fluid reservoir level before each operation. If the fluid level
is low, add DOT 4 brake fluid only.
Brake fluid should be changed every two years, anytime
the fluid becomes contaminated, the fluid level is below
the minimum level, or if the type and brand of the fluid in
the reservoir is unknown.
The brake fluid master cylinder reservoir can be a ccessed
through the left front wheel well.
1. Position the vehicle on a level surface with the engine
off.
2. Place the transmission in gear and lock the parking
brake.
3. View the brake fluid level in the reservoir. The level
should be between the MAX and MIN level lines.
4. If the fluid level is lower than the MIN level line, add
brake fluid until it reaches the MAX level line.
5. Install the reservoir cap and apply the brake pedal
forcefully for a few seconds, then check for fluid leaks
around the master cylinder and brake caliper fittings.
Brake Pad / Disc Inspection
1. Check the brake pads for wear, damage, or
looseness.
2. Inspect the brake pad wear surface for excessive
wear.
2
3. Pads should be changed when the friction material is
worn to .040” (1 mm).
4. Check surface condition of the brake discs.
5. Measure the thickness of the front and rear brake
discs.
6. The disc(s) should be replaced if thickness is less than
.170” (4.32 mm).
Brake Hose and Fitting Inspection
Check brake system hoses and fittings for cracks,
deterioration, abrasion, and leaks. Tighten any loose
fittings and replace any worn or damaged parts.
Use the in-line adjuster to adjust the parking brake cable
freeplay.
NOTE: Inspect the brake pads before adjusting
parking brake adjuster.
1. Verify the parking brake lever is down.
2. Inspect the freeplay between the cable end and
caliper bracket by pulling back on the cable.
3. Freeplay should be 1/16"-1/8" (1.5-3mm).
4. T o adjust the cable freeplay , loosen the in-line adjuster
jam nut. Turn the adjuster nut outwards to decrease
cable freeplay. Turn the adjuster inwards to increase
cable freeplay.
5. After setting the correct amount of freeplay , tighten the
in-line adjuster jam nut against adjuster.
NOTE: Inspect the brake pads before adjusting
parking brake adjuster.
1. Place vehicle on a flat, level surface.
2. Shift transmission into Neutral.
3. Carefully lift rear tires off the ground with a stable
platform jack, or set vehicle on stable jack stands.
4. Loosen jam nut (A) on parking brake ad justment bolt.
5. While rotating the rear wheels by hand, tighten the
adjustment bolt (B) until significant brake drag is
detected.
6. Back the adjustment bolt out 1/4 turn.
7. Hold adjustment bolt in place and tighten jam nut
securely against lever arm.
8. Check parking brake lever movement. Verify the rear
wheels rotate freely with the parking brake off (parking
brake lever is in the DOWN position), and that the
vehicle will not move when the parking brake is
applied (lever in the UP position).
9. Verify the park brake lever stays in the UP position
when brake is fully applied.
** For break-in period after engin e top end service, use
Performance Synthetic (PS-4) Extreme Duty oil to ensure
complete piston ring seating to cylinder wall. Change to
above recommendation after 10 hours.
Piston Identification
The piston may or may not have an identification m ark for
piston placement. If the piston has an identification mark,
follow the directions for piston placement below. If the
piston does not have an identification mark, the direction
for placement of the piston does not matter.
Note the directional and identification marks when viewing
the pistons from the top. The letters “IN” must always be
toward the intake side of the engine. T he other numb ers
are used for identification as to diameter, length and
design. Four stroke engine rings are rectangular profile.
Any numbers or letters on the rings (except oil control
rings) must be positioned upward. See text for oil control
ring upper rail installation.
Accessible Components
The following components can be serviced or removed
with the engine installed in the frame:
• Flywheel
• Alternator/Stator
• Starter Motor/Starter Drive
• Oil pump / Chain
• Rocker Arms
• Carburetor
• Transmission Components
• Valves
• Cylinder Head
• Cylinder
• Piston/Rings
• Camshaft
The following components require engine removal for
service:
• Cam Chain and Sprockets
• Crankshaft
• Crankshaft Main Bearings
• Crankcase/Bearings
• Balancer/Bearings
NOTE: Cam chain service requires crankshaft
removal, as the chain is located on the pto side of
the engine.
NOTE: Crankshaft components are not serviceable.
Replace crankshaft as an assembly.
Piston Pin must be a push (by hand) fit at 68 F
(20
C)
Piston Ring Piston Ring Installed gap
Piston Ring
Connecting Rod
Crankshaft
Oil pump chainInstall new as a part of any oil pump replacement
Cam Shaft Chain
Standard clearance -
piston ring to ring groove
Connecting rod small end ID.5903 - .5916” (15.01 - 15.028 mm)
Connecting rod big end axial clearance Std.0039 - .011" (0.1 - 0.3 mm)
Connecting rod big end radial
The breather / oil separator is located on the upper re ar cab support. This system provides ventilation for the valve cover
and engine crankcase to the air box. A one-way valve (A) allows pulses from the crankcase to travel in one direction
only , thereby vacuuming the crankcase. NOTE: Over-filling of crankcase will result in oil in the air box. Always keep oil
volume at recommended level.
The secondary air system is located on the upper rear cab support and engine. This system introduces air into the
exhaust system for more comple te burning of the exhaust em issions. The air control valve (A) is operated by intake
manifold pulses from the intake manifold, which releases the air to the one-way valve (B) to combine with the pull of the
exhaust gas stream from the cylinder head. Check the air control valve (A), one-way valve (B), filter housing (C) and
related components according to the maintenance schedu le in Chapter 2 for proper operation and emissions compliance.
The cooling shroud directs air generated by the fan arou nd
the cylinder and casing for cooling.
REMOVAL:
1. Remove the carburetor and intake.
2. Remove the exhaust pipe.
3. Remove the screws that attach the fan shroud (A) to
the housing (C).
4. Remove the bolts that attach the fan shroud to the
stator housing.
5. Remove the screws that attach the upper and lower
housings together (C).
6. Remove the bolt that attaches the housing to the
engine case on the PTO side.
7. Separate the upper and lower housings at the snaphooks and lift housings away from the engine.
INSTALLATION:
8. Install the upper and lower housings (C), making sure
the snap-hooks are secure. Install the housing scr ews
and attaching bolt into the engine case. Han d tighte n sufficiently, using care not to over-tighten.
9. Install the fan shroud (A) and attaching screws to
housing (C). Install the fan shroud bolts to the stator
housing. Hand tighten sufficiently, using care not to
over-tighten.
10. Install the exhaust pipe onto the cylinder. Torque to
specification.
Pipe Flange Fasteners:
7-8 ft. lb. (9-11 Nm)
11. Install the carburetor and intake. Torque fasteners to
specification.
6. Disconnect all electrical wires from the engine.
7. Remove the following parts as required:
• Rear Cab Assembly (Refer to Chapter 5)
8. Remove exhaust pipe.
9. Remove the carburetor . Insert a clean shop towel into
the carburetor flange to prevent dirt from entering the
intake.
10. At the starter motor, note the chassis ground cable
location and remove it.
11. Mark the positive (+) cable mounting angle and
remove cable.
12. Remove the transmission shift cables from the
transmission and secure out of the way.
13. Raise the rear of the unit until the wheels are off the
ground. Secure with jackstands under the frame.
14. Remove the drive chain.
Engine Installation Notes
After the engine is installed in the frame, review this
checklist and perform all steps that apply:
General Items
• Install previously removed components using new
gaskets, seals, and fasteners where applicable.
• Perform checks on fluid levels, controls, and all
important areas on the vehicle as outlined in the
daily pre-ride inspection checklist (refer to Chapter
2).
CVT System
• Clean clutch sheaves thoroughly and inspect inlet
and outlet ducts for proper routing and sealing.
• Inspect clutch rollers, shoes and springs before
reassembly.
Transmission
• Inspect transmission operation and adjust linkage
if necessary.
Exhaust
• Replace exhaust gaskets. Seal connections if
desired with high temp sealant.
• After running the engine, verify all bolted exhaust
connections are tight and in good condition.
3
15. Remove the top rear shock bolts and allow the swing
arm to drop. (OPTIONAL - Refer to Chapter 5 to
remove the axle and swing arm as an assembly)
16. Remove all engine mount bolts and / or engine mount
plates.
17. Using the aid of an assistant, lift and remove engine
out the rear of the vehicle.
Engine Mount Torque
• Front Mount
•Rear Mounts
Engine Break In Period
4 Cycle Engine Break-In Period is defined as the first 10
hours of engine operation or 2 full tanks of fuel.
• Use only Performance Synthetic (PS-4) Extreme
Duty Oil, or API certified “SH” oil equivalent.
• Use fuel with a minimum octane of 87 (R+M)/2
method.
• Change break-in oil at 10 hours or 100 miles,
whichever comes first.
Refer to page 3.12 for engine removal / installation notes.
Finding Top Dead Center (TDC)
1. Remove the cooling shroud.
2. Remove the inspection cap from the stator housing.
3. Remove the valve cover and emissions pipe
assembly.
To posit ion the crankshaft at Top Dead Center (TDC) on
the compression stroke:
4. Rotate the engine slowly in the direction of rotation
while watching the intake valve open and start to
close.
5. Continue to rotate slowly while watching the camshaft
sprocket marks and timing mark in the inspection
hole.
6. The engine is at Top Dead Center when the single
(TDC) mark on flywheel is visible within the inspection
hole and the cam sprocket hole is facing upward.
NOTE: The sprocket marks should align with the
gasket surface, the cam lobes must be pointed
downward and the rockers must have valve
clearance at this point.
Cam Chain Tensioner Inspection
1. Remove the two cam chain tensioner flange bolts.
NOTE: The plunger is under spring tension.
Maintain inward pressure on the tensioner body
while removing.
2. Allow the cam chain tensioner plunger to extend
outward to the end of its travel. Inspect tensioner and
plunger (A) for wear or damage.
3. Using a small flat blade screwdriver , turn the tensioner
clockwise to retract the plunger. The plunger should
move smoothly in and out of the tensioner body.
4. Tap lightly on tensioner body with a soft face hammer
to loosen and remove tensioner if required.
5. Replace tensioner assembly if any part is worn or
damaged.
Rocker Assembly
Disassembly and Inspection
NOTE: Orientation of the components is important
for reassembly. Mark components as needed before
disassembly.
1. Remove the valve cover and secondary air injection
pipe as an assembly.
2. Loosen each of the four cylinde r head nu ts evenly 1/
4 turn each time in a cross pattern until loose.
5. Remove each rocker arm shaft using a hex bolt.
NOTE: Place the hex bolt head in a vise and lightly
tap the rocker housing with a non-marring
hammer to pull the rocker arm shafts.
3
6. Measure O.D. of rocker shafts for out-of-round.
Inspect for wear or damage. Replace if excessive
wear is evident. NOTE: Orientation of the rocker
shafts is important for reassembly . Place only the
exhaust rocker shaft into the e xhaust si de of the
cam support.
3. Remove the nuts and tap the rocker assembly with a
plastic hammer to loosen, then remove. Mark or tag
rocker arms to keep them in order for assemb ly.
4. Inspect each rocker arm cam follower surface. If there
is any damage or uneven wear, replace the rocker
arm. NOTE: Always inspect camshaft lobes if
7. Measure I.D. of each rocker arm for out-of-round and
visually inspect the I.D. surface. Replace arm if
excessive wear is evident.
3.15
Page 68
ENGINE
Inspect for Areas of
Tooth Wear or Damage
Compression Release
One-Way Operation
Lobe Height
Bearings
8. Inspect the lash adjusters for wear, pitting, or damage
to threads of the adjuster or locknut. Replace all worn
or damaged parts. NOTE: The end of the lash
adjuster is hardened and cannot be ground or r esurfaced.
Camshaft Removal
NOTE: Cam chain tensioner must be removed
before performing this procedure.
1. Verify the valve cover and cam chain tensioner have
been removed.
2. Remove the 4 cylinder head bolts evenly by loosening
each one 1/4 turn at a time until loose. Tap the rocker
assembly with a non-marring hamme r to loosen and
remove the assembly.
Camshaft Inspection
1. Inspect cam sprocket teeth for wear or damage.
Replace if necessary.
2. Inspect the compression release mechanism. This is
a one-way rotating shoulder that lift s the exhaust valve
slightly during start-up. If the one-way mechanism is
not functioning, replace the cam. Verify the stop
bracket and spring is functioning correctly. Replace if
excessive wear of components is found.
3. Remove the cam chain from the sprocket by tilting the
cam assembly and simultaneously lifting the chain.
4. If not removing the cylinder for other service, secure
the cam chain with a wire to prevent it from falling into
the crankcase.
3. Visually inspect each cam lobe and bearing for wear,
chafing or damage.
5. Measure height of each cam lobe using a micrometer .
Replace cam if worn below minimum height.
Replace camshaft if damaged or if any part is worn
excessively.
ENGINE
Cylinder Head Removal
NOTE: Cam chain and tensioner must be removed. If
no crankshaft service is being performed, secure
cam chain with mechanics wire to avoid chain falling
into the crankcase.
1. Verify the valve cover and tensioner are removed.
2. Remove the two 6mm cylinder/head base screws.
3. Loosen each of the four cylinder head nuts evenly 1/
4 turn each time in a cross pattern until loose.
4. Remove the nuts and tap th e rocker assembly with a
plastic hammer until loose. Remove.
5. After removing the camshaft and securing the cam
chain, tap the cylinder head lightly with a plastic
hammer until loose. CAUTION: Tap only in
reinforced areas or on thick parts of cy linder head
casting to avoid damaging casting.
1. Thoroughly clean cylinder head surface to remove all
traces of gasket material and carbon.
Use care not to damage sealing surface.
If there is damage found on the cylinder head
combustion chamber, it is recommended the
component be replaced.
Cylinder Head Warp Inspection
1. Lay a straight edge across the surface of the head at
several different points and measure warpage by
inserting a feeler gauge between the straight edge
and the cylinder head surface. If warpage exceeds
the service limit, replace the cylinder hea d.
Cylinder Head Disassembly
Wear eye protection or a face shield during
cylinder head disassembly and reassembly.
NOTE: Keep all parts in order with respect to their
location in the cylinder head.
NOTE: Valves have inner and outer springs.
1. Using a valve spring compressor , compress the valve
springs and remove the split keeper. NOTE: To
prevent loss of tension, do not compress the valve
spring more than necessary.
Cylinder Head Warp Limit: .002” (.05 mm)
Combustion Chamber Inspection
Clean all accumulated carbon deposits from combustion
chamber and valve seat area with a soft wire brush.
Inspect the combustion chamber for cracks and/or
damage from foreign debris.
2. Remove spring retainer and spring.
NOTE: The valve springs should be positioned with
the tightly wound coils against the cylinder head on
progressively wound springs (A).
3. Push valve out, keeping it in order fo r reassembly in
the same guide.
4. Measure free length of the inner and outer springs
with a Vernier caliper, Ill.1. Check spring for
squareness as shown in Ill.2. Replace spring if
measurements are out of specification.
Valve Inspection
1. Remove all carbon from valve with a soft wire wheel.
2. Check valve face for runout, pitting, and burned spots.
To check for bent valve stems, mount valve in a drill
or use “V” blocks and use a dial indicator.
3
3. Check end of valve stem for flaring, pitting, wear or
damage (A).
5. Remove valve seals. NOTE: Replace seals whenever
the cylinder head is disassembled. Hardened,
cracked or worn valve seals will cause excessive oil
consumption and carbon buildup.
4. Inspect split keeper groove for wear or flaring of the
keeper seat area (B). NOTE: The valves cannot be refaced or end ground. V alves must be replaced if worn,
bent, or damaged.
5. Measure diameter of valve stem with a micrometer in
three places and in two different directions (six
measurements total). Replace if excessive wear is
evident.
3.19
Page 72
ENGINE
CAUTION
Too
Wide
Uneven
GoodToo
Narrow
6. Measure valve guide inside diameter at the top middle
and end of the guide using a small hole gauge and a
micrometer. Measure in two directions, front to back
and side to side.
7. Subtract valve stem measurement to obtain stem to
guide clearance. NOTE: Be sure to measure each
guide and valve combination individually.
8. Replace valve and/or guide if clearance is excessive.
NOTE: If valve guides are replaced, valve seats must
be reconditioned. Refer to Valve Seat
Reconditioning for procedure.
Follow the manufacturers instructions provided with the
valve cutting kit (commercially available). Abrasive stone
seat reconditioning equipment can also be used. Keep
valves in order with their respective seat.
NOTE: Valve seat width and point of contact on the
valve face is very important for proper sealing. The
valve must contact the valve seat over the entire
circumference of the seat, and the seat must be the
proper width all the way around. If the seat is
uneven, compression leakage will result. If the seat
is too wide, seat pressure is reduced, causing
carbon accumulation and possible compression
loss. If the seat is too narrow, heat transfer from
valve to seat is reduced and the valve may overheat
and warp, resulting in burned valves.
1. Install pilot into valve guide.
Valve Seat Reconditioning
Valv e Seat Inspection
Inspect valve seat in cylinder head for pitting, burnt spots,
roughness, and uneven surface. If any of the above
conditions exist, the valve seat must be reconditioned. If
the valve seat is cracked the cylinder head must be
replaced.
Cylinder Head Reconditioning
NOTE: Servicing the valve guides and valve seats
requires special tools and a thorough knowledge of
reconditioning techniques.
Wear eye protection when
performing cylinder head service.
2. Apply cutting oil to valve seat and cutter.
3. Place 46 cutter on the pilot and make a light cut.
4. Inspect the cut area of the seat.
• If the contact area is less than 75% of the
circumference of the seat, rotate the pilot 1 80
make another light cut.
• If the cutter now contacts the uncut port ion of the
seat, check the pilot. Look for burrs, nicks, or
runout. If the pilot is bent it must be replaced.
• If the contact area of the cutter is in the same
place, the valve guide is distorted from improper
installation and must be replaced. Be sure the
cylinder head is at the proper temperature and
replace the guide.
• If the contact area of the initial cut is greater than
75%, continue to cut the seat until all pits are
removed and a new seat surface is evident.
NOTE: Remove only the amount of material
necessary to repair the seat surface.
5. T o check the contact area of the seat on the valve face,
apply a thin coating of Prussian Blue™ paste to the
valve seat. If using an interference angle (46
black marker to the entire valve face (A).
)apply
• If the seat is too wide or uneven, use both top and
bottom cutters to narrow the seat.
• If the seat is too narrow, widen using the 45 cutter
and re-check contact point on the valve face and
seat width after each cut.
3
6. Insert valve into guide and tap valve lightly into place
7. Remove valve and check where the Prussian Blue™
a few times.
or black marker indicates seat contact on the valve
face. The valve seat should contact the middle of the
valve face or slightly above, and must be the proper
width (A).
cutter to
• If the indicated seat contact is at the top edge of
the valve face and contacts the margin area(B) it is
too high on the valve fa ce. Use the 30
lower the valve seat.
• If too low use the 60or 75 cutter to raise the
seat. When contact area is centered on the valve
face, measure seat width.
NOTE: When using an interference angle, the seat
contact point on the valve will be very narrow, and is
a normal condition. Look for an even and
continuous contact point on the blac k ma rker, a ll t he
way around the valve face.
8. Clean all filings from the area with hot soapy water,
rinse, and dry with compressed air.
9. Lubricate the valve guides with clean engine oil, and
apply oil or water based lapping compound to the face
of the valve. Lapping is not required with an
interference angle.
10. Insert the valve into its respective guide and lap using
a lapping tool or a section of fuel line connected to the
valve stem.
13. Spray electrical cont act cleaner into oil p assages and
dry using compressed air.
Cylinder Head Assembly
Wear eye protection during assembly.
NOTE: Assemble the valves one at a time to
maintain proper order.
11. Rotate the valve rapidly back and forth until the cut
sounds smooth. Lift the valve slightly off of the seat,
rotate 1/4 turn, and repeat the lapping proce ss. Do this
four to five times until the valve is fully seated, and
repeat process for the other valve.
1. Install new valve seals on valve guides.
2. Apply engine oil to valve guides and seats.
3. Coat valve stem with molybdenum disulfide grease.
4. Install valve carefully with a rotating motion to avoid
damaging valve seal.
5. Dip valve springs and retainer in clean en gine oil and
install springs with closely spaced coils toward the
cylinder head.
6. Place retainer on springs and install valve spring
compressor. Compress spring only enough to allow
split keeper installation and prevent loss of spring
tension. Install split keepers with the gap even on both
sides.
Cylinder Removal
Follow engine disassembly procedures to remove the
valve cover, rocker assembly, camshaft and cylinder
head.
1. Remove cam chain guide at front of cylinder.
2. Tap cylinder lightly with a soft-faced hammer in
reinforced areas only until loose. NOTE: Orientation
of the dowels (arrows) is important for oil flow.
Note their position for reassembly.
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7. Repeat procedure for remaining valve.
8. When all valves are installed, tap lightly with soft faced
hammer on the end of the valves to seat the keepers.
Valve Sealing Test
1. Clean and dry the combustion chamber area.
2. Pour a small amount of cleaning solvent into each port
and check for leakage around each valve. The valve
seats should hold fluid with no leaking.
3. Rock cylinder back and forth while lifting it from the
crankcase, piston and connecting rod. Support piston
with Piston Support Block (PN 2870390).
Cam Chain Follower / Tensioner Guide
Removal
1. Remove bolt securing the tensioner guide to
crankcase (A). NOTE: CVT disassembly is
required to gain access to the tension guide bolt.
Refer to Chapter 7.
2. Remove chain guides and inspect for cracks, wear or
damage. Replace assemblies as required.
2. Push piston pin out of piston. If necessary, heat the
crown of the piston slightly with a propane torch.
CAUTION: Do not apply heat to the piston rings. The
rings may lose radial tension.
3. Remove the compression rings, starting with the top
ring.
Cylinder Inspection
1. Remove all gasket material from the cylinder sealing
surfaces.
2. Inspect the top of the cylinder for warpage using a
straight edge and feeler gauge.
Cylinder Warp:
.002” (.05 mm) MAX
* Using a piston ring pliers: Carefully expand ring and lift
it off the piston. CAUTION: Do not expand the ring more
than the amount necessary to remove it from the piston, or
the ring may break.
* By hand: Placing both thumbs as shown, spread the ring
open and push up on the opposite side. Use care to not
scratch the ring lands.
4. Repeat procedure for second ring.
5. The oil control ring is a three piece design consisting
of a top and bottom steel rail and a center expander
section. Remove the top rail first followed by the
bottom rail and expander.
3. Inspect cylinder for wear, scratches, or damage.
4. Inspect cylinder for taper and out of round with a
telescoping gauge or a dial bore gauge. Measure in
two different directions, front to back and side to side,
on three different levels (1/2” down from top, in the
middle, and
1/2” up from the bottom).
5. Record measurements. If cylinder is tape red or out of
round beyond specification, the cylinder must be
honed, bored or replaced.
Cylinder Taper:
Limit: .002” (.05 mm) Max.
Cylinder Out of Round:
Limit: .002” (.05 mm) Max.
Cylinder Hone Selection / Honing Procedure
A hone which will straighten as well as remove
material from the cylinder is very important.
Using a common spring loaded glaze breaker for
honing is not advised. Polaris recommends
using a rigid hone or arbor honing mach ine .
Cylinders may be wet or dry honed depending upon the
hone manufacturer’s recommendations. Wet honing
removes more material faster and leaves a more distinct
pattern in the bore.
contact cleaner if necessary to clean these areas. Rinse
thoroughly, dry with compressed air, and oil the bore
immediately with Polaris 4 Cycle Lubricant to prevent the
formation of surface rust.
If cylinder wear or damage is excessive, it will be
necessary to replace the cylinder. Hone only enough to
deglaze the outer layer of the cylinder bore.
3
Piston Inspection
1. Measure piston outside diameter at a point 7 mm up
from the bottom of the piston at a right angle to the
direction of the piston pin.
Honing to Deglaze
A finished cylinder should have a cross-hatch pattern to
ensure piston ring seating and to aid in the retention of the
fuel/oil mixture during initial break in. Hone cylinder
according to hone manufacturer’s instructions, or these
guidelines:
• Use a motor speed of approximately 300-500
RPM, run the hone in and out of the cylinder
rapidly until cutting tension decreases. Remember
to keep the hone drive shaft centered (or cylinde r
centered on arbor) and to bring the stones
approximately 1/2” (1.3 cm) above and below the
bore at the end of each stroke.
• Release the hone at regular intervals and inspect
the bore to determine if it has been sufficiently
deglazed, and to check for correct cross-hatch.
NOTE: Do not allow cylinder to heat up during
honing.
• After honing has been completed, inspect cylinder
for thinning or peeling.
IMPORTANT: Clean the Cylinder After Honing
It is very important that the cylinder be thoro ughly cleaned
after honing to remove all grit material. W ash the cylinder
in a solvent, then in hot, soapy water. Use electrical
2. Subtract this measurement from the maximum
cylinder measurement obtained earlier.
3. Measure piston pin bore. Replace piston if out-ofround
4. Measure piston pin O.D. Replace piston pin if out-ofround.
groove clearance exceeds service limits.
Piston Ring Installed Gap
1. Place each piston ring inside cylinder using piston to
push ring squarely into place as shown.
5. Measure connecting rod small end ID. Replace
crankshaft if out-of-round.
6. Measure piston ring to groove clearance by placing
the ring in the ring land and measuring with a
thickness gauge. Replace piston and rings if ring-to-
Piston Ring Installed Gap:
Top Ring
Std: .0059- .013” (.15-.35 mm)
Limit: .0196” (0.5 mm)
Second Ring
Std: .0059- .013” (.15-.35 mm)
Limit: .196” (0.5 mm)
Oil Ring
Std: .0079-.0314” (0.2- 0.8 mm)
Limit: .059” (1.5 mm)
2. Measure the gap with a feeler gauge at both the top
and bottom of the cylinder.
NOTE: Measure at two points in the cylinder A
difference in end gap indicates cylinder taper. The
cylinder should be measured for excessive taper
and out of round.
3. If the installed gap measurement exceeds the limit,
replace the rings. If using new rings and the
measurement is too small, file the ring ends to achieve
the proper gap.
NOTE: Always check piston ring installed gap after
re-boring a cylinder or when installing new rings. A
re-bored cylinder should always be scrubbed
thoroughly with hot soapy water, rinsed, and dried
completely. Wipe cylinder bore with an oil rag
immediately to remove residue and prevent rust.
BOTTOM-END DISASSEMBLY
Starter Drive Gear Removal and Inspection
1. Remove the fan from the hub.
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2. Remove the fan hub by removing the flywheel nut,
washer and pulling the hub from the crankshaft.
3. Remove stator housing bolts and remove housing.
4. Remove the start drive gear and shaft by pulling the
shaft and tilting the gear slightly.
5. Measure the OD of the starter drive shaf t on both ends
for out-of-round.
6. Measure the ID of the bushing in the stator housing
(A) and in the crankcase (B) in two directions 90
to determine if out-of-round. Calculate the clearance.
Replace components if clearance is excessive.
apart
Flywheel Removal / Inspection
Avoid damage to the flywheel or crankshaft e nd.
Do not strike components or special tools with
hammers or heavy objects.
1. Before removing the flywheel, remove the shaft collar
(A) from the crankshaft. NOTE: Shaft collar
installation is important for proper loading of the
flywheel upon reassembly.
7. Inspect gear teeth on s tarter drive. Replace starter
drive if gear teeth are cracked, worn, or broken.
8. Inspect the stator housing bearing. Replace if worn,
rough or damaged.
2. Install Flywheel Adapter PA-49936 and Puller PA45153 and remove the flywheel.
NOTE: PA-45153 has left-hand threads which
correspond with the left-hand threads on PA-49936.
Use caution to avoid thread damage to flywheel or
tools.
5. Inspect sprocket teeth of both gears for wear or
damage.
6. Inspect woodruff key for wear. Replace if damaged.
7. Replace any worn or damaged parts.
Starter Drive One-way Clutch
Removal and Inspection
1. The cooling shroud, stator housing and flywheel must
be removed prior to accessing the one-way starter
drive.
2. Pull the starter drive assembly fr om the crankshaft.
Inspect the bearing surfaces and drive teeth for signs
of wear or gouging. Replace the one-way clutch as an
assembly if it is not working properly. Assembly should
turn in one direction only.
Balance Shaft Sprocket
Removal and Inspection
1. The cooling shroud, stator housing and flywheel and
starter drive one-way gear must be removed prior to
accessing the balance shaft gear and oil pump gear
2. Using Slotted Nut Socket PA-47344, remove the
balance shaft slotted nut and washer.
NOTE: Slotted nut is right-hand thread.
NOTE: One-way clutch components are not
serviceable. Replace the component as an
assembly.
3. Do not add specialized lubricants or greases to the
bearing or one-way components, as this may cause
undesirable operation.
NOTE: Engine must be removed from the frame to
perform any crankcase or crankshaft removal.
NOTE: The starter, starter drive, flywheel, st ator, oil
pump and transmission can be serviced with the
engine in the frame.
Crankcase Separation and
Cam Chain Removal
NOTE: Stator housing, flywheel and gears are
previously removed for this procedure. Use care
during the removal process to avoid damage to the
cam chain.
NOTE: Cylinder head and cylinder removal must be
performed prior to this procedure.
NOTE: Always replace the pto crankshaft seal after
performing this procedure.
1. Remove two case bolts (circled) from the magneto
side crankcase.
NOTE: Tapping the pto end of the crankshaft with a
soft-face hammer may also separate the cases. Use
care not to damage the crankshaft end or cases.
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3. Watch the gap along the crankcase mating surface
and separate the crankcase evenly.
4. Once the crankshaft bearing is free from the case, the
crankshaft and cam chain can be removed by hand for
replacement.
2. Separate crankcase using a press or by pres sing on
the pto end of the crankshaft using special tool (PA-
46087).
Crankshaft Removal
1. Support the MAG side crankcase on blocks. Press
the crankshaft out using a press or special tool (PA-
46087). Use care not to damage the crankshaft oil
passage on the mag end crankshaft end.
NOTE: Tapping the pto end of the crankshaft with a
soft-face hammer may also separate the cases. Use
care not to damage the crankshaft end or cases.
1. Inspect the crankshaft main bearings and cam chain
sprocket for wear or damage.
NOTE: Due to extremely close tolerances and
minimal wear, the bearings must be inspected
visually, and by feel. Look for signs of discoloration,
scoring or galling. Turn the outer race of each
bearing. The bearings should turn smoothly and
quietly. The inner race of each bearing should fit
tightly in the crankshaft. The outer race should be
firm with minimal side to side movement and no
detectable up and down movement.
2. Replace the crankshaft if the components fail visual
inspection.
3. The connecting rod utilizes a roller bearing. Clearance
is minimal and cannot be measured . Visually ins pe ct
bearing journal for scoring, damage or excessive
wear. Replace crankshaft if it fails visual inspection.
5. Remove cam chain. Inspect chain for wear or
damage. Replace if worn e xcessively or a s part of
any crankshaft repair.
Crankcase / Bearing Inspection
NOTE: Removal and installation of new seals is
recommended anytime the crankcase is
disassembled.
1. Inspect the bearings in the crankcase.
NOTE: Due to extremely close tolerances and
minimal side wear, the bearing must be inspected
visually and by feel. Look for signs of discoloration,
scoring or galling. Turn the inner race of bearing.
The bearing should turn smoothly and quietly. The
outer race should fit tightly in the crankcase. The
inner race should be firm with minimal side to side
movement and no detectable up and down
movement.
2. To remove crankcase bearings, use a blind hole
bearing puller.
4. Check oil passages to make sure they are clear.
3.34
NOTE: Bearings are damaged during the removal
procedure and should not be re-used.
3. Remove all traces of gasket material from the
crankcase mating surfaces. Inspect the surfaces
closely for nicks, burrs or damage.
Crankcase Oil Strainer Inspection
1. Remove drain plug.
2. Remove oil strainer and visually inspect for any
damage or obstructions in screen.
3. Replace oil strainer if it fails visual inspection.
NOTE: To ease crankcase bearing installation, warm
the crankcase until hot to the touch. Placing the
bearings in a freezer prior to installation will assist
the assembly process.
1. Install the bearings so the numbers are visible.
2. Drive or press the new bearings into the crankcase,
using the proper driver.
Pre ss bea rin gs onl y o n ou ter ra ce o f b e ar in g to
prevent bearing damage.
3. Install new seals with the lip facing in.
Press seals only on outer diameter
to prevent damage.
NOTE: Tapping the end of the crankshaft with a softface hammer may also install the crankshaft. Use
care not to damage the crankshaft end.
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2. Install the balance shaft into the mag side of the
crankcase.
Crankcase Reassembly
Crankshaft and Cam Chain Installation
Lubricate all bearings with clean engine oil before
assembly.
1. Support the mag side crankcase cover on blocks high
enough to allow the crankshaft to drop. Install the
crankshaft using a hydraulic tool. Press on the pto
end of the crankshaft. Use care not to damage the
crankshaft end.
3. Install a new gasket onto the pto case half. Applying
a thin amount of crankcase sealer to the gasket will
help hold it in place.
4. Mate the mag side case, balancer and crankshaft to
the PTO side.
loop the cam chain down into the chain room and over
the pto end.
5. Press the mag and pto assembles together using a
press. Verify the balance shaft is seated and both
shafts turn freely once installed.
NOTE: Tapping the mag end of the crankshaft with a
soft-face hammer may also install the crankshaft in
the PTO side. Use care not to damage the crankshaft
end.
6. Loop the cam chain through the chain room and
secure with mechanic’s wire.
7. Install the two mag side flange bolts and torque to
specification.
Chain Guide/Tensioner Installation
1. Install the chain guide and tighten the mou nting bolt
to specified torque.
NOTE: Apply clean engine oil to all ring surfaces
and ring lands. Always check piston ring installed
gap before rings are installed on piston. If the piston
has been in service, clean any accumulated carbon
from the ring grooves and oil control ring holes.
1. Oil Control Ring: Place the oil control ring expander
in oil ring groove with the end gap facing forward. The
expander has no up or down marking and can be
installed either way. The ends should butt squarely
together and must not overlap.
2. Install the oil ring top rail with the end gap at least 30
from the end of the expander.
3. Install the bottom rail with the gap at least 30 from the
end of the expander on the side opposite the top rail
gap.
Piston Installation
Do not re-use circlips. Circlips become
deformed during the removal process. Do not
compress the new clip more than necessary to
prevent loss of radial tension. Severe engine
damage may result if circlips are re-used or
deformed during installation.
3
1. Install a new circlip on one side of the piston with the
end gap facing up or down.
2. Apply clean engine oil all components before
assembly. Generously lubricate the connecting rod
(both ends) and crankshaft main bearing area.
3. Install the wrist pin and piston onto the connecting ro d.
IMPORTANT: Install the piston on the connecting
rod with the ’IN” casting mark facing the intake
side of engine. The piston pin should be a push fit
into the piston.
4. Second Ring: Install the second ring with the mark
facing up (if applicable). Position the end gap toward
the rear (intake) side of the piston.
5. T op Ring: Install the top ring with the chamfered edge
facing up (if applicable).
6. Check to make sure the rings rotate freely in the
groove when compressed by hand. Verify that the
ring gaps are 120 degrees apart from each other
before installation.
4. Install the other circlip with the gap facing up or down.
(See note with Step 3 above). Push the piston pin in
both directions to make sure the clips are properly
seated in the groove.
5. Place the dowel pins in the PTO side of the crankcase
and install a new cylinder base gasket.
6. Lubricate the piston and rings with assembly lube and
install a ring compressor on the piston assembly.
Verify that the ring gaps are 120 degrees apart
from each other before installation.
Cylinder Installation
NOTE: Clean the gasket surfaces on the crankcase
and cylinder. Remove all traces of old gasket
material and apply a new base gasket
4. Push the rings into the cylinder taper using a nonmetallic, blunt-edge tool while pushing the cylinder
down. This will help push the piston past the ring taper
into the cylinder.
5. Remove the support block once the piston rings are
inside the cylinder . Seat the cylinder firmly on the base
gasket.
6. Install the cam chain guide and dowel pins into the
cylinder. Verify the bottom end of the guide is se ated
properly in the crankcase.
1. Verify the cylinder base dowel pin(s) and a new base
gasket are installed. Position the Piston Support
Block (PN 2870390) (A) beneath the piston skirt to
support the piston during cylinder installation.
NOTE: Route cam chain through the cylinder chain
room and secure it, holding it up while rotating the
engine to avoid damage to the chain, drive sprocket
teeth or tensioner blade.
2. Apply clean engine oil liberally to the bore and taper ed
area of the cylinder. Place the cylinder on to the studs.
3. Loop the cam chain through the cylinder chain room
and secure with mechanic’s wire. Seat the cylinder
fully on the piston and support block.
NOTE: Verify the gasket surfaces on the cylinder
head and cylinder are clean. Remove all traces of old
gasket material.
1. Install the dowel pin(s) and a new cylinder head
gasket over the cylinder studs.
2. Pull the cam chain through the cylinder head chain
room and secure with mechanic’s wire.
3. Place the cylinder head onto the cylinder.
4. Install the two 6 mm base bolts, but do not tighten at this time.
5. Install the cam according to the “Cam Shaft Timing”
procedure. Ver ify the cam chain is in place around the
crankshaft gear.
NOTE: Verify camshaft timing is accurate before
installing the rocker and tensioner assemblies.
Camshaft Timing
Serious engine damage will result if the
camshaft is not properly timed to the crankshaft.
IMPORTANT CAMSHAFT TIMING NOTE: In order to
time the camshaft to the crankshaft, the piston must be
precisely located at Top Dead Center (TDC). This can be
accomplished using one of two methods.
1. Install the cam chain over the crankshaft.
When the stator housing is removed, use Method 1. This
method uses the camshaft gear marks and the crankshaft
keyway to establish TDC (see Method 1 illustration). It is
important to note that this method can only be used when
the stator housing is removed and the crankshaf t keyway
is in view. The camshaft sprocket alignment marks are
parallel to the gasket surface, and camshaft lobes are
pointing down. Cam chain plate links are not used to time
the camshaft.
When the stator housing is installed, use Method 2. This
method establishes Top Dead Center (TDC) by aligning
the single mark on the flywheel in the timing inspection
hole (see Method 2 illustration). The camshaft sprocket
alignment marks are parallel to the gasket surface, and
camshaft lobes are pointing down. Cam chain plate links
are not used to time the camshaft.
Stator ho using is removed. NOTE: Use this method only
when the stator is removed and cam shaft drive sprocket
is in view.
3
1. Rotate the crankshaft until the keyway on the
crankshaft is pointed ’UP” (keyway facing upward)
and the piston is at TDC.
2. Align the cam chain onto the teeth of the crankshaft
sprocket. Use a wire to pull the chain up through the
cylinder and cylinder head and to hold it in place.
Secure and maintain tension so that the chain does
not fall off the crankshaft sprocket.
3. Apply engine assembly lubricant to the camshaft main
journals and cam lobes. Lubricate automatic
compression release mechanism with clean engine
oil.
4. Orientate the camshaft for installation with the lobes facing downward.
5. Disconnect the wire securing the cam chain and loop
the cam chain over the camshaft sprocket while
verifying the cam is inserted with the alignment marks
parallel to the gasket surface.
6. Verify all cam timing mar ks to verify proper cam timing,
and install the rocker arm assembly (see Method 1
illustration). Torque the cylinder stud nuts to
specification.
NOTE: Do not rotate engine until rocker assembly
and tensioner are installed.
7. Install the tensioner . T orque fasteners to specification.
8. After tensioner installation, rotate engine at least two
revolutions and re-check marks/timing.
Stator housing is installed. NOTE: Use this method only
when the stator is installed and cam shaft drive sprocket
is in view.
1. Rotate the crankshaft until the single (TDC) timing
mark (T op Dead Center) on the flywheel is view in the
center of the timing inspection window. Be sure to use
the single TDC mark when installing the cam. Do not
use any advance marks (if evident).
2. Align the cam chain onto the teeth of the cam chain
drive sprocket. Use a wire to pull the chain up through
the cylinder and cylinder head and to hold it in place.
Secure the chain.
the chain does not fall off the crankshaft sprocket.
Secure and maintain tension so that
3. Apply engine assembly lubricant to the camshaft main
journals and cam lobes. Lubricate automatic
compression release mechanism with clean engine
oil.
4. Orientate the camshaft for installation with the lobes facing downward.
5. Disconnect the wire securing the cam chain and loop
the cam chain over the sprocket while verifying the
cam is inserted with the alignment marks parallel to
the gasket surface.
6. Check all cam timing marks to verify proper cam
timing, and install the rocker arm assembly. Torque
the cylinder stud nuts to specification.
NOTE: Do not rotate engine until tensioner and
rocker assembly is installed.
7. Install the tensioner . T orque fasteners to specification.
8. After tensioner installation, rotate engine at least two
revolutions and re-check marks/timing.
1. Apply engine assembly lube to all components and
assemble the arms, shafts and decompression
components into the rocker assembly.
IMPORTANT: Install rocker shafts in their correct
positions. The exhaust side shaft is shorter and is
held in place by the cylinder stud. The intake side
shaft has a ‘half-moon’ section that aligns with the
cylinder stud to hold it in place.
2. Apply engine lube to the shafts and cam follower
surfaces.
Rocker Assembly Installation
3. Install cylinder head nuts and torque to specification.
3
Cylinder Head Nut:
18 ft-lbs (25 Nm)
4. Torque the cylinder base screws to specification.
5. Adjust valves according to the “VALVE CLEARANCE
ADJUSTMENT” procedures.
1. Apply engine lube to all components and assembly
arms, shafts and decompression components of the
rocker assembly.
2. Verify the cam is still in the TDC position before
installing the rocker assembly onto the cylinder studs.
6. Install valve cover and secondary air assembly with
new gaskets. Torque bolts to specification.
1. Apply St arter Drive Grease (PN 28714 60) to the drive
bushings in the cases.
2. Slide the starter drive gear into position on the oneway gear and install the shaft.
Starter Drive Grease:
(PN 2871460)
Stator Installation
NOTE: The stator, flywheel, and starter drive
components can be serviced with the engine in the
frame.
1. Install the stator and pulse coil. Route the wires
appropriately to avoid contact with any moving parts.
Torque bolts to specification.
3
3. Install stator housing and torque bolt s to specification.
Flywheel Installation
Install flywheel key, flywheel and the flywheel spacer.
Proceed to “Stator Housing Installation” if the stator
assembly is already installed.
IMPORTANT: Flywheel spacer installation is critical
for proper clamp-load when applying torque to the
flywheel nut. Verify spacer is installed before
assembly of the stator housing to the crankcase.
Stator Bolt:
7-8 ft-lbs(9-11 Nm)
Pulse Coil Bolt:
4-5 ft-lbs(5-7 Nm)
2. Apply a small amount of Crankcase Sealant (PN
2871557) to the stator wire grommet and install into
the housing cavity.