Peugeot 205 User Manual

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Peugeot 205

Service and Repair Manual

Models covered

All Peugeot 205 models with petrol engines (inc. GTi, Cabriolet, Automatic & special/limited editions) 954 cc, 1124 cc, 1360 cc, 1580 cc & 1905 cc

Covers mechanical features of Vans Does not cover diesel engine or T16 Turbo models

A K Legg LAE MIMI and John S Mead

A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder.

ISBN 1 85960 189 8

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Printed by J. H. Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford, Nr Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England

Haynes Publishing

Sparkford Nr Yeovil Somerset BA22 7JJ England

Haynes North America, Inc

861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park California 91320 USA

Editions Haynes S.A

147/149, rue Saint Honoré, 75001 PARIS, France

Haynes Publishing Nordiska AB

Fyrisborgsgatan 5, 754 50 Uppsala, Sverige

(932 - 272 - 10Y12)

LIVING WITH YOUR PEUGEOT 205

Introduction Page 0•4 Safety First! Page 0•5

ROADSIDE REPAIRS

Introduction Page 0•6 If your car won’t start Page 0•6 Jump starting Page 0•7 Wheel changing Page 0•8 Identifying leaks Page 0•9 Towing Page 0•9

WEEKLY CHECKS

Introduction Page 0•10 Underbonnet check points Page 0•10 Engine oil level Page 0•11 Coolant level Page 0•11 Brake fluid level Page 0•12 Power steering fluid level Page 0•12 Screen washer fluid level Page 0•13 Battery Page 0•13 Tyre condition and pressure Page 0•14 Wiper blades Page 0•15 Bulbs and fuses Page 0•15 Lubricants and fluids Page 0•16 Tyre pressures Page 0•16

MAINTENANCE

Routine Maintenance and Servicing

Servicing Specifications Page 1•2 Maintenance schedule Page 1•3 Maintenance procedures Page 1•8

Contents

REPAIRS & OVERHAUL

Engine and Associated Systems

XV, XW and XY engines in-car repair procedures Page 2A•1 XU series engine in-car repair procedures Page 2B•1 TU series engine in-car repair procedures Page 2C•1 Engine removal and overhaul procedures Page 2D•1 Cooling, heating and air conditioning systems Page 3•1 Fuel system - carburettor engines Page 4A•1 Fuel system - single-point fuel injection engines Page 4B•1 Fuel system - multi-point fuel injection engines Page 4C•1 Exhaust and emission control and exhaust systems Page 4D•1 Starting and charging systems Page 5A•1 Ignition system Page 5B•1

Transmission

Clutch Page 6•1 Manual transmission Page 7A•1 Automatic transmission Page 7B•1 Driveshafts Page 8•1

Brakes and Suspension

Braking system Page 9•1 Suspension and steering Page 10•1

Body Equipment

Bodywork and fittings Page 11•1 Body electrical system Page 12•1

Wiring Diagrams Page 12•15

REFERENCE

Dimensions and weights Page REF•1 Conversion factors Page REF•2 Buying spare parts Page REF•3 Vehicle identification Page REF•3 General repair procedures Page REF•4 Jacking and vehicle support Page REF•5 Radio/cassette anti-theft system Page REF•5 Tools and working facilities Page REF•6 MOT test checks Page REF•8 Fault finding Page REF•12 Glossary of technical terms Page REF•20

Index Page REF•25

Contents

The Peugeot 205 was introduced in the UK in September 1983 as a five-door Hatchback with a transversely-mounted engine and transmission assembly driving the front wheels. The suspension is of front coil springs and rear transverse torsion bars.

Three engine sizes were originally available, featuring a chain driven overhead camshaft design mounted directly over the transmission. The GTi was introduced in the Spring of 1984 and was fitted with a belt-driven overhead camshaft engine with a side-mounted transmission. The GTI engine is equipped with an electronically controlled fuel injection system.

In October 1984 three-door versions became available, with an X series designation, in addition to the three-door GTI. Van versions were introduced in June 1985, together with the limited edition Lacoste,

based on the GT version. In September 1985 the XT was introduced, being a three-door version of the GT, and at the same time the 954 cc XL three-door was introduced, having a higher specification than the XE. The 1580 cc Automatic was introduced in April 1986 at the same time as the Cabriolet CTI. The XS replaced the XT in July 1986, at which time the limited edition Junior, based on the XE, became available. The 1.9 GTI was introduced in August 1986, and at the same time dim-dip headlights and rear seat belts were fitted as standard. In December 1987 the new TU engines and MA transmissions were fitted to all except fuel injection, diesel and automatic models.

Latest models feature single- and multi-point fuel injection, with full emission control equipment and a sophisticated engine management system.

0•4 Introduction

Peugeot 205 GTi Peugeot 205 van

Your Peugeot 205 Manual

The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage), provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis when random faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads.

The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Then the tasks are described and photographed in a clear step-by-step sequence.

Acknowledgements

Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug, who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug condition. Certain illustrations are the copyright of Peugeot Talbot Motor Company Limited, and are used with their permission. Thanks are also due to Sykes-Pickavant Limited, who provided some of the workshop tools, and to Duckhams Oils who provided lubrication data, also to all those people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual.

We take great pride in the accuracy of information given in this manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design changes during the production run of a particular vehicle of which they do not inform us. No liability can be accepted by the authors or publishers for loss, damage or injury caused by any errors in, or omissions from the information given.

The Peugeot 205 Team

Haynes manuals are produced by dedicated and enthusiastic people working in close co-operation. The team responsible for the creation of this book included:

Authors Andy Legg

John Mead Sub-editors Carole Turk Editor & Page Make-up Steve Churchill Workshop manager Paul Buckland Photo Scans John Martin

Paul Tanswell Cover illustration & Line Art Roger Healing Wiring diagrams Matthew Marke

We hope the book will help you to get the maximum enjoyment from your car. By carrying out routine maintenance as described you will ensure your car’s reliability and preserve its resale value.

Safety first! 0•5

Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude.

General hazards

Scalding

• Don’t remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot.

• Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running.

Burning

• Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use.

Crushing

• When working under or near a raised vehicle, always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps.

Never venture under a car which is only supported by a jack.

• Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground.

Fire

• Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive.

• Don’t let fuel spill onto a hot engine.

• Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools).

• Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don’t work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit.

• Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring.

• Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires.

Electric shock

• Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don’t work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on.

• Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker.

Fume or gas intoxication

• Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut.

• Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners.

Poisonous or irritant substances

• Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don’t syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice.

• Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket.

• Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact.

Asbestos

• Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos.

Special hazards

Hydrofluoric acid

• This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400

C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed,

the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned.

• When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use.

The battery

• Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery.

• The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or jump leads.

Air bags

• Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply.

Diesel injection equipment

• Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes.

Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body

to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results.

Remember...

• Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle.

• Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary.

• Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle.

• Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts.

• Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle – especially the electrical system.

• Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job.

A few tips

DON’T

• Don’t attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability – get assistance.

• Don’t rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts.

• Don’t use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury.

• Don’t leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. Mop up oil and fuel spills at once.

• Don’t allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on.

0•6 Roadside repairs

The following pages are intended to help in dealing with common roadside emergencies and breakdowns. You will find more detailed fault finding information at the back of the manual, and repair information in the main chapters.

If your car won’t start and the starter motor doesn’t turn

M If it’s a model with automatic transmission, make sure the

selector is in ‘P’ or ‘N’.

M Open the bonnet and make sure that the battery terminals

are clean and tight.

M Switch on the headlights and try to start the engine. If the

headlights go very dim when you’re trying to start, the battery is probably flat. Get out of trouble by jump starting (see next page) using a friend’s car.

If your car won’t start even though the starter motor turns as normal

M Is there fuel in the tank? M Is there moisture on electrical components under the

bonnet? Switch off the ignition, then wipe off any obvious dampness with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol product (WD-40 or equivalent) on ignition and fuel system electrical connectors like those shown in the photos. Pay special attention to the ignition coil wiring connector and HT leads. (Note that Diesel engines don’t normally suffer from damp.)

Check the security of all the fuel injection system wiring connectors (where applicable).

Check the security and condition of the battery terminals.

Check that all ignition wiring connectors such as this at the distributor are secure and spray with water dispersant if necessary.

Check that the spark plug HT leads are securely connected by pushing them home

Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with a water dispersant spray like WD40 if you suspect a problem due to damp

Roadside repairs 0•7

When jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions:

4 Before connecting the booster

battery, make sure that the ignition is switched off.

4 Ensure that all electrical equipment

(lights, heater, wipers, etc) is switched off.

4 Make sure that the booster battery is

the same voltage as the discharged one in the vehicle.

4 If the battery is being jump-started

from the battery in another vehicle, the two vehcles MUST NOT TOUCH each other.

4 Make sure that the transmission is in

neutral (or PARK, in the case of automatic transmission).

Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities:

The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by

leaving the lights on.

The charging system is not working

properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty).

The battery itself is at fault

(electrolyte low, or battery worn out).

Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the booster battery.

Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the booster battery

Connect the other end of the black jump lead to a bolt or bracket on the engine block, well away from the battery, on the vehicle to be started.

Make sure that the jump leads will not come into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine.

Start the engine using the booster battery, then with the engine running at idle speed, disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection.

Jump starting

0•8 Roadside repairs

Wheel changing

Some of the details shown here will vary according to model. For instance, the location of the spare wheel and jack is not the same on all cars. However, the basic principles apply to all vehicles.

M When a puncture occurs, stop as soon

as it is safe to do so.

M Park on firm level ground, if possible,

and well out of the way of other traffic.

M Use hazard warning lights if necessary.

M If you have one, use a warning triangle to

alert other drivers of your presence.

M Apply the handbrake and engage first or

reverse gear.

M Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the

one being removed – a couple of large stones will do for this.

M If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of

wood to spread the load under the foot of the jack.

Finally...

M Remove the wheel chocks. Stow the

jack and tools in the appropriate locations in the car.

M Don’t leave the spare wheel cradle

empty and unsecured – it could drop onto the ground while the car is moving.

M Check the tyre pressure on the wheel

just fitted. If it is low, or if you don’t have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the nearest garage and inflate the tyre to the correct pressure. Have the damaged tyre or wheel repaired, or renew it, as soon as possible.

From inside the boot area, use the wheelbrace to lower the spare wheel cradle.

Slide the spare wheel out from the underside of the car.

For safety in the event of the jack slipping, position the spare wheel under the sill, close to the jacking point.

Remove the wheel trim (where fitted) then slacken each wheel bolt by a half turn.

Locate the jack below the reinforced jacking point and on firm ground (don’t jack the car at any other point on the sill).

Turn the jack handle clockwise until the wheel is raised clear of the ground, remove the bolts and lift the wheel clear.

Position the spare wheel and fit the bolts. Tighten moderately with the wheelbrace, then lower the car to the ground.

Tighten the wheel bolts in the sequence shown, fit the wheel trim, and secure the punctured wheel in the spare wheel cradle.

Changing the wheel

Preparation

Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by other traffic. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel – it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand.

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654

7 8

Roadside repairs 0•9

When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home – or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: M Use a proper tow-rope – they are not expensive. The vehicle being towed must display an ‘ON TOW’ sign in its rear window. M Always turn the ignition key to the ‘on’ position when the vehicle is being towed, so that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights will work.

M Only attach the tow-rope to the towing eyes provided. M Before being towed, release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. M Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the vacuum servo unit is only operational with the engine running. M On models with power steering, greaterthan-usual steering effort will also be required. M The driver of the car being towed must keep the tow-rope taut at all times to avoid snatching. M Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off.

M Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance towed to a minimum. Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing down at junctions. M On models with automatic transmission, special precautions apply. If in doubt, do not tow, or transmission damage may result. M Do not tow BH type gearbox models with the front wheels on the ground for long distances, as the engine lubrication system also supplies pressure-fed oil to the gears and differential bearings Unnecessary wear may occur if the car is towed with the engine stopped.

Towing

Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious wetness under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to decide where the leak is coming from, especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies.

Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay.

Identifying leaks

The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what’s leaking. Some

fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak.

Remember that some leaks may only occur while the engine is running.

Sump oil Gearbox oil

Brake fluid Power steering fluid

Oil from filter

Antifreeze

Engine oil may leak from the drain plug... ...or from the base of the oil filter.

Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this.

Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts.

A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid.

Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack.

0•10 Weekly checks

There are some very simple checks which need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense.

These "Weekly checks" require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take to perform could prove to be very well spent, for example;

M Keeping an eye on tyre condition and pressures, will not only help to stop them wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life.

Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of

these.

M If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might know about it is when your brakes don't work properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem.

M If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine damage will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example.

Introduction

TU series

Other engine similar

Engine oil level dipstick

Engine oil filler cap

Coolant expansion tank

Brake fluid reservoir

Screen washer fluid reservoir

Battery

Underbonnet check points

Weekly checks 0•11

Engine oil level

Before you start

4 Make sure that your car is on level ground. 4 Check the oil level before the car is driven,

or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off.

The correct oil

Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used (See “Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures”).

Car Care

l If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place some clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil

(see “Fault Finding”)

l Always maintain the level between the upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3). If the level is too low severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil.

If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will

remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate reading on the dipstick!

The dipstick top is often brightly coloured for easy identification (see “Underbonnet check points” on page 0•10 for exact

location). Withdraw the dipstick.

Using a clean rag or paper towel remove all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go,

then withdraw it again.

Note the oil level on the end of the dipstick, which should be between the

upper ("MAX") mark and lower ("MIN") mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level from the lower mark to the upper mark.

Oil is added through the filler cap. Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a

funnel may help to reduce spillage. Add the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick often. Don’t overfill (see “Car Care” left).

1 2

3 4

Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous.

Car Care

l With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary.

l It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don’t top-up with water alone, as the antifreeze will become too diluted.

Coolant level

The coolant level varies with engine temperature. When cold, the coolant

level should be between the “MAX” and “MIN” marks. When the engine is hot, the level may rise slightly above the “MAX” mark.

Where the expansion tank has a level indicator inside the expansion tank, the

coolant level should be between the upper level indicator step (a) and lower step (b). On all engines, when the coolant is hot, the level may rise above the “MAX” mark or level indicator step.

If topping-up is necessary, turn the expansion tank cap slowly anti-clockwise

and wait until any pressure in the system is released. Once any pressure is released, unscrew it fully and lift it off. Add a mixture of water and antifreeze through the filler neck until the coolant is at the correct level. Refit the cap, turning it clockwise as far as it will go to secure.

2 3

0•12 Weekly checks

Brake fluid level

Warning: l Brake fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it. l Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air, which can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness.

Safety First!

l If the reservoir requires repeated toppingup this is an indication of a fluid leak somewhere in the system, which should be investigated immediately.

l If a leak is suspected, the car should not be driven until the braking system has been checked. Never take any risks where brakes are concerned.

• Make sure that your car is on level ground.

• The fluid level in the

reservoir will drop slightly as the brake pads wear down, but the fluid level must never be allowed to drop below the “MIN” mark.

The “MAX” and “MIN” marks are indicated on the front of the reservoir. The fluid level must be kept between the marks at all times.

If topping-up is necessary, first wipe clean the area around the filler cap to prevent dirt entering the hydraulic system.

Unscrew the reservoir cap and carefully lift it out of position. Inspect the reservoir, if the fluid is dirty the hydraulic system

should be drained and refilled (see Chapter 1).

Carefully add fluid, taking care not to spill it onto the surrounding components. Use

only the specified fluid; mixing different types can cause damage to the system. After topping-up to the correct level, securely refit the cap and wipe off any spilt fluid.

Power steering fluid level

Before you start:

4 Park the vehicle on level ground. 4 Set the steering wheel straight-ahead. 4 The engine should be turned off.

Safety First!

l The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, which should be investigated immediately.

For the check to be accurate, the steering must not be turned once the engine has been stopped.

The reservoir is located in the front lefthand corner of the engine compartment,

next to the battery. Wipe clean the area around the reservoir filler neck and unscrew the filler cap/dipstick from the reservoir.

When the engine is cold, the fluid level should be between the “MAX” mark and

the “MIN” mark on the reservoir or filler cap dipstick. Top-up as necessary to maintain the level between the two marks.

When topping-up, use the specified type of fluid and do not overfill the reservoir. When the level is correct, securely refit the cap.

Weekly checks 0•13

Screenwash additives not only keep the winscreen clean during foul weather, they also prevent the washer system freezing in cold weather - which is when you are likely to need it most. Don’t top up using plain water as the screenwash will become too diluted, and will freeze during cold weather. On no account use

coolant antifreeze in the washer system this could discolour or damage paintwork.

The screenwasher fluid is also used to clean the tailgate rear window, and on some models, the headlights

The washer fluid reservoir filler is located at the front left-hand side of the engine compartment (or right-hand side on models with headlight wash). The washer reservoir itself is actually located under the car on some models; release the cap and observe the level in the reservoir by looking down the filler neck.

Screen washer fluid level

When topping-up the reservoir, add a screenwash additive in the quantities recommended on the bottle.

Battery

Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read the precautions given in "Safety first" at the start of this manual.

4 Make sure that the battery tray is in good condition, and that the clamp is tight. Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the battery itself can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas with water. Any metal parts damaged by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-based primer, then painted. 4 Periodically (approximately every three months), check the charge condition of the battery as described in Chapter 5A. 4 If the battery is flat, and you need to jump start your vehicle, see Roadside Repairs.

The battery is located on the left-hand side of the engine compartment. The

exterior of the battery should be inspected periodically for damage such as a cracked case or cover.

Check the tightness of battery clamps (A) to ensure good electrical connections.

You should not be able to move them. Also check each cable (B) for cracks and frayed conductors.

Battery corrosion can be kept to a minimum by applying a layer of petroleum jelly to the clamps and terminals after they are reconnected.

If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is evident, remove the cables from the

battery terminals, clean them with a small wire brush, then refit them. Automotive stores sell a tool for cleaning the battery post . . .

. . . as well as the battery cable clamps

0•14 Weekly checks

Tyre condition and pressure

It is very important that tyres are in good condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all produce more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is completely effective, you may have the expense of replacing all four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that

the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly check the tyres for damage in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in the sidewalls. Periodically remove the wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily damaged by "kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel is very often the only way to overcome severe damage.

New tyres should be balanced when they are fitted, but it may become necessary to rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing. If, however, the vibration is felt through the whole car, the rear wheels could be out of balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage.

Tread Depth - visual check

The original tyres have tread wear safety bands (B), which will appear when the tread depth reaches approximately 1.6 mm. The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A).

Tread Depth - manual check

Alternatively, tread wear can be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge.

Tyre Pressure Check

Check the tyre pressures regularly with the tyres cold. Do not adjust the tyre pressures immediately after the vehicle has been used, or an inaccurate setting will result.

Tyre tread wear patterns

Shoulder Wear

Underinflation (wear on both sides)

Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not to mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures

Incorrect wheel camber (wear on one side)

Repair or renew suspension parts

Hard cornering

Reduce speed!

Centre Wear

Overinflation

Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of the centre part of the tyre tread, coupled with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing.

Check and adjust pressures

If you sometimes have to inflate your car’s tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don’t forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards.

Uneven Wear

Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. Most tyre dealers and garages can check and adjust the wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge.

Incorrect camber or castor

Repair or renew suspension parts

Malfunctioning suspension

Repair or renew suspension parts

Unbalanced wheel

Balance tyres

Incorrect toe setting

Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel.

Weekly checks 0•15

Bulbs and fuses

4 Check all external lights and the horn. Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for details if any of the circuits are found to be inoperative.

4 Visually check all accessible wiring connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for security, and for signs of chafing or damage.

If you need to check your brake lights and indicators unaided, back up to a wall or

garage door and operate the lights. The reflected light should show if they are working properly.

If a single indicator light, stop-light or headlight has failed, it is likely that a bulb

has blown and will need to be replaced. Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If both stoplights have failed, it is possible that the switch has failed (see Chapter 12).

If more than one indicator light or tail light has failed it is likely that either a fuse has

blown or that there is a fault in the circuit (see Chapter 12). The fuses are located behind a panel on the bottom of the driver’s side lower facia panel.

To replace a blown fuse, simply pull it out and fit a new fuse of the correct rating

(see Chapter 12). If the fuse blows again, it is important that you find out why - a complete checking procedure is given in Chapter 12.

Wiper blades

Check the condition of the wiper blades; if they are cracked or show any signs of

deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew them. Wiper blades should be renewed annually.

To remove a windscreen wiper blade, pull the arm fully away from the screen until it

locks. Swivel the blade through 90°, press the locking tab with your fingers and slide the blade out of the arm’s hooked end.

4 Don’t forget to check the tailgate wiper blade as well. To remove the blade, depress the retaining tab and slide the blade out of the hooked end of the arm.

0•16 Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures

Lubricants and fluids

Engine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10W/40, or 15W/40, to API SG/CD

(Duckhams QXR, QS or Hypergrade Plus)

Cooling system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Ethylene glycol-based antifreeze (Duckhams Antifreeze and Summer

Coolant)

Manual transmission:

BH3 transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10W/40 or 15W/40, to API SG/CD

(Duckhams QXR or Hypergrade Plus)

BE1, and BE3 transmissions:

Pre-August 1987 . . . . . . . . . . . Multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 10W/40 or 15W/40, to API SG/CD

(Duckhams QXR or Hypergrade Plus)

August 1987 onward . . . . . . . . Gear oil, viscosity SAE 75W/80 (Duckhams Hypoid PT 75W/80W Gear oil)

MA transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . Gear oil, viscosity SAE 75W/80 (Duckhams Hypoid PT 75W/80W Gear oil)

Automatic transmission . . . . . . . . . Dexron type II automatic transmission fluid (Duckhams Uni-Matic)

Braking system . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Universal brake fluid to DOT 4 (Duckhams Universal Brake and Clutch Fluid)

Power steering . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Dexron type II automatic transmission fluid (Duckhams Uni-Matic)

Tyre pressures

Front Rear

135 SR 13 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bars 2.1 bars

145 SR 13 (Hatchback models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.9 bars 2.1 bars

145 SR 13 (Van models):

Normal use . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.9 bars 2.3 bars

Fully laden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.9 bars 2.6 bars

165/70 SR 13 (manual transmission models) . . . . . . . . 1.7 bars 1.9 bars

165/70 SR 13 (automatic transmission models) . . . . . . 2.0 bars 2.1 bars

185/60 HR 14 (except CTI models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bars 2.0 bars

185/60 HR 14 (CTI models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bars 2.1 bars

185/55 VR 15 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 bars 2.0 bars

Note: Refer to the tyre pressure data sticker for the correct tyre pressures for your particular vehicle. Pressures apply only to original-equipment tyres, and may vary if other makes or type is fitted; check with the tyre manufacturer or supplier for correct pressures if necessary.

Oils perform vital tasks in all engines. The higher the engine’s performance, the greater the demand on lubricants to minimise wear as well as optimise power and economy. Duckhams tailors lubricants to the highest technical standards, meeting and exceeding the demands of all modern engines.

HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS

• Beating friction

Without oil, the surfaces inside your engine which rub together will heat, fuse and quickly cause engine seizure. Oil, and its special additives, forms a molecular barrier between moving parts, to stop wear and minimise heat build-up.

• Cooling hot spots

Oil cools parts that the engine’s water-based coolant cannot reach, bathing the combustion chamber and pistons, where temperatures may exceed 1000°C. The oil assists in

transferring the heat to the engine cooling system. Heat in the oil is also lost by air flow over the sump, and via any auxiliary oil cooler.

• Cleaning the inner engine

Oil washes away combustion by-products (mainly carbon) on pistons and cylinders, transporting them to the oil filter, and holding the smallest particles in suspension until they are flushed out by an oil change. Duckhams oils undergo extensive tests in the laboratory, and on the road.

Engine oil types

Mineral oils are the “traditional” oils, generally suited to older engines and cars not used in harsh conditions. Duckhams Hypergrade Plus and Hypergrade are well suited for use in most popular family cars. Diesel oils such as Duckhams Diesel are specially formulated for Diesel engines, including turbocharged models and 4x4s. Synthetic oils are the state-of-the-art in lubricants, offering ultimate protection, but at a fairly high price. One such is Duckhams QS, for use in ultra-high performance engines. Semi-synthetic oils offer high performance engine protection, but at less cost than full synthetic oils. Duckhams QXR is an ideal choice for hot hatches and hard-driven cars.

For help with technical queries on lubricants, call Duckhams Oils on 0181 290 8207

Choosing your engine oil

Note: It is antisocial and illegal to dump oil down the drain. To find the location of your local oil recycling bank, call this number free.

Chapter 1

Routine maintenance and servicing

Air cleaner filter element renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

Air conditioning system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

Automatic transmission fluid level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

Automatic transmission fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

Bodywork, paint and exterior trim check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

Brake fluid renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Clutch pedal stroke adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

Coolant renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

Driveshaft bellows check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24

Engine oil and filter renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Exhaust system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17

Emissions control systems check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

Front brake pad check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Fuel filter renewal - fuel injection models . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Handbrake check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15

Headlight beam alignment check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19

Idle speed and mixture check and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Ignition system check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Intensive maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

Lock and hinge check and lubrication . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

Manual transmission oil level check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

Manual transmission oil renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Rear brake pad condition check - models with rear disc brakes . . . 14

Rear brake shoe check - models with rear drum brakes . . . . . . . . . 13

Road test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

Seat belt check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

Spark plug renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Steering and suspension check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Throttle and choke cable lubrication and adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

Timing belt renewal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Underbody and fuel/brake line check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16

Underbonnet check for fluid leaks and hose condition . . . . . . . . . . . 6

1•1

Contents

Easy, suitable for

novice with little experience

Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with some experience

Fairly difficult,

suitable for competent DIY mechanic

Difficult, suitable for experienced DIY mechanic

Very difficult,

suitable for expert DIY or professional

Degrees of difficulty

1•2 Servicing Specifications

Lubricants and fluids . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refer to end of “Weekly checks”

Capacities

Engine oil

XV and XW series engines (including filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4.5 litres

XY and XU series engines (including filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.0 litres

TU series engines (including filter) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3.5 litres

Cooling system

XV8, XW7, TU9 and TU3 series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.8 litres

XY7 and XY8 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.0 litres

XU engines (except automatic transmission models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.6 litres

XU engines (automatic transmission models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.7 litres

TU1 series engine (except Van models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7.0 litres

TU1 series engine (Van models) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5.8 litres

Manual transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 litres

Automatic transmission

From dry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6.2 litres

Drain and refill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.4 litres

Fuel tank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 litres

Engine

Oil filter:

XV, XW and XY series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion C204

XU and TU series engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion F104

Cooling system

Antifreeze mixture:

Protection down to - 15ºC (5ºF) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27% antifreeze

Protection down to - 35ºC (- 31ºF) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50% antifreeze

Note: Refer to Chapter 3 for further details.

Fuel system

Air cleaner filter element:

Pre-1988 carburettor engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W138

1988 onward carburettor engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion U401

Fuel injection engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion W175

Fuel filter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion L205

Idle speed and mixture CO content . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Refer to Chapter 4A, 4B and 4C Specifications

Ignition system

Spark plugs:

XV8, XW7 and XY7 engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RS9YCC or S281YC*

XY8 and XU5J engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion S7YCC or S279YC*

XU51C engines (up to 1988) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion S9YCC or S281YC*

XU51C engines (from 1988) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC9YCC or C9YCX*

XU5JA engines (up to 1988) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion S7YCC or S279YC*

XU5JA (from 1988), XU5JA/K, XU9JA, XU9JA/K, XU9JA/Z and

XU9JA/L engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC or C7YCX*

TU9 series, TU1 series, TU3 and TU3A engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC9YCC or C9YCX*

TU3S engines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Champion RC7YCC or C7YCX*

*Peugeot recommendation

Spark plug electrode gap** . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.7 to 0.8 mm

**The spark plug electrode gap quoted is that recommended by Champion for their specified plugs listed above. If spark plugs of any other type are to be fitted, refer to their manufacturer’s recommendations.

Brakes

Front brake pad minimum lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm

Rear brake shoe minimum lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1.0 mm

Rear brake pad minimum lining thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2.0 mm

Tyre pressures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . See “Weekly checks”

Torque wrench settings Nm lbf ft

Spark plugs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 13

Manual transmission drain/filler plugs

BE1 and BE3 transmissions:

Main gearbox drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 7

Final drive drain plug . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 22

MA transmission . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 19

Maintenance schedule 1•3

Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly

Refer to “Weekly checks”.

Every 36 000 miles (58 000 km) or 3 years - whichever comes sooner

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

Renew the timing belt (Section 31).

Note: Although the normal interval for timing belt renewal is 72 000 miles (120 000 km), It is strongly recommended that the timing belt renewal interval is halved to 36 000 miles (60 000 km) on vehicles which are subjected to intensive use, ie. mainly short journeys or a lot of stop-start driving. The actual belt renewal interval is therefore very much up to the individual owner, but bear in mind that severe engine damage will result if the belt breaks.

Every 6000 miles (9000 km) or 6 months - whichever comes sooner

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

mm Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3)*. mm

Check the condition of the front brake pads, and renew if necessary (Section 4).

Check the automatic transmission fluid level and top-up if necessary (Section 5).

Note: Renewal of the engine oil filter at this service interval is only necessary on models fitted with the XU9J1/L engine and automatic transmission. On all other models, oil filter renewal is recommended at every second oil change (ie 12 000 miles/12 months).

Every 48 000 miles (80 000 km) or 4 years - whichever comes sooner

Renew the fuel filter - fuel injection models (Section 32).

Every 12 000 miles (18 000 km) or 12 months - whichever comes sooner

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

Check all underbonnet components and hoses for fluid leaks (Section 6).

Renew the spark plugs (Section 7).

Check, adjust and lubricate the throttle and choke cables (Section 8).

Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt, and renew if necessary (Section 9).

Check the clutch pedal stroke adjustment (Section 10).

Check the condition of the seat belts (Section 11).

Lubricate the locks and hinges (Section 12).

Check the condition of the rear brake shoes and renew if necessary - rear drum brake models (Section 13).

Check the condition of the rear brake pads and renew if necessary - rear disc brake models (Section 14).

Check the operation of the handbrake (Section 15).

Inspect the underbody and the brake hydraulic pipes and hoses (Section 16).

Check the condition of the fuel lines (Section 16).

Check the condition and security of the exhaust system (Section 17).

Check the condition of the exterior trim and paintwork (Section 18).

Check the headlight beam alignment (Section 19).

Check the operation of the air conditioning system (Section 20).

Every 72 000 miles (120 000 km)

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

Renew the timing belt (Section 31).

Note: This is the interval recommended by Peugeot, but we recommend that the belt is changed more frequently, at 36 000 miles (60 000 km) - see above

Every 24 000 miles (36 000 km) or 2 years - whichever comes sooner

In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following:

Check the manual transmission oil level, and top-up if necessary (Section 21).

Renew the manual transmission oil (pre-1988 BE1 transmissions only) (Section 22).

Renew the automatic transmission fluid (Section 23).

Check the condition of the driveshaft bellows (Section 24).

Check the steering and suspension components for condition and security (Section 25).

Renew the air cleaner filter element (Section 26).

Check the ignition system (Section 27).

Check the idle speed and mixture adjustment (Section 28).

Check the condition of the emissions control system hoses and components (Section 29).

Carry out a road test (Section 30).

Every 2 years (regardless of mileage)

Renew the coolant (Section 33).

Renew the brake fluid (Section 34).

The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you, not the dealer, will be carrying out the work. These are the average maintenance intervals recommended for vehicles driven daily under normal conditions. Obviously some variation of these intervals may be expected depending

on territory of use, and conditions encountered. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform some of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance because it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle.

If the vehicle is driven in dusty areas, used to tow a trailer, driven frequently at slow speeds (idling in traffic) or on short journeys, more frequent maintenance intervals are recommended.

1•4 Maintenance - component location

Underbonnet view of a 1360 cc GT model (XY8 series engine)

1 Right-hand front engine mounting 2 Jack 3 Drivebelt 4 Oil filter 5 Bottom hose 6 Water pump 7 Throttle cable 8 Fuel pump 9 Brake master cylinder 10 Brake fluid reservoir filler cap 11 Vehicle identification plate 12 Choke cable

13 Heater hose 14 Oil filler cap/crankcase ventilation filter 15 Windscreen wiper arm 16 Hydraulic brake lines 17 Cooling fan motor resistor 18 Front suspension shock absorber top

mounting nut 19 Ignition coil cover 20 Distributor 21 Bottom hose 22 Clutch release fork

23 Clutch housing 24 Washer reservoir 25 Battery 26 Ignition timing aperture 27 Diagnostic socket 28 Radiator filler cap 29 Air cleaner 30 Bonnet lock 31 Oil pressure switch 32 Alternator 33 Cooling system expansion

bottle

Maintenance - component location 1•5

Underbonnet view of a 1360 cc XS model (TU series engine)

1 Brake fluid reservoir filler cap 2 Brake master cylinder 3 Brake vacuum servo unit 4 Servo vacuum hose 5 Cooling system bleed screw 6 Air cleaner cover 7 Fuel pump 8 Cooling system expansion bottle

9 Fuel filter 10 Washer fluid reservoir 11 Battery 12 Air temperature control unit 13 Auxiliary fusebox 14 Radiator filler cap 15 Ignition coil

16 Bonnet lock 17 Engine oil filler cap 18 Exhaust manifold hot air shroud 19 Alternator 20 Engine oil level dipstick 21 Inlet manifold 22 Right-hand engine mounting

1•6 Maintenance - component location

Front underside view of a 1360 cc GT model

1 Bottom hose 2 Reverse lamp switch 3 Engine/transmission oil drain plug 4 Radiator 5 Gear linkage 6 Clutch housing and transfer gear

assembly

7 Washer reservoir 8 Disc caliper 9 Lower suspension arm 10 Anti-roll bar 11 Track rod 12 Guide bar

13 Exhaust front pipe 14 Fuel feed and return pipes 15 Hydraulic brake lines 16 Subframe 17 Driveshaft 18 Front towing eye

Maintenance - component location 1•7

Rear underside view of a 1360 cc GT model

1 Exhaust front pipe 2 Handbrake cables 3 Heatshield 4 Rear suspension cross-tube 5 Brake hydraulic flexible hose

6 Rear shock absorber 7 Trailing arm 8 Side-member 9 Exhaust rubber mounting 10 Exhaust rear silencer

11 Spare wheel 12 Rear towing eye 13 Torsion bars 14 Fuel tank

1 Introduction

This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance.

This Chapter contains a master maintenance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each task in the schedule. Visual checks, adjustments, component renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components.

Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a comprehensive plan, so maintaining some items but not others at the specified service intervals will not produce the same results.

As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can and should - be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the close proximity of two otherwise-unrelated components to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust should be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components.

The first step of this maintenance programme is to prepare yourself before the

actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather together all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist or a dealer service department.

2 Intensive maintenance

1 If, from the time the vehicle is new, the

routine maintenance schedule is followed closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as suggested throughout this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised. 2 It is possible that there will be some times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, which has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is purchased. In such cases, additional work may need to be carried out, outside of the regular maintenance intervals. 3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression test (refer to Chapter 2A, B or C) will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal components. Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a compression test indicates serious internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the performance of the

engine, and may prove a waste of time and money, unless extensive overhaul work (Chapter 2D) is carried out first. 4 The following series of operations are those often required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine:

Primary operations

a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (See

“Weekly checks”).

b) Check all the engine-related fluids (See

“Weekly checks”).

c) Check the condition of the auxiliary

drivebelt (Section 9).

d) Inspect the distributor cap, rotor arm and

HT leads (Section 27). e) Renew the spark plugs (Section 7). f) Check the condition of the air cleaner

filter element and renew if necessary

(Section 26). g) Renew the fuel filter - fuel injection

models (Section 32). h) Check the condition of all hoses, and

check for fluid leaks (Section 6).

5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following operations:

Secondary operations

All the items listed under “Primary operations”, plus the following:

a) Check the charging system (Chapter 5A). b) Check the ignition system (Chapter 5B). c) Check the fuel system (Chapter 4A, B and

C). d) Renew the distributor cap and rotor arm

(Section 27). e) Renew the ignition HT leads (Section 27).

3 Engine oil and filter renewal

Note: A suitable square-section wrench may be required to undo the sump drain plug on some models. These wrenches can be obtained from most motor factors or your Peugeot dealer.

1 Frequent oil changes are the best preventive maintenance the home mechanic can give the engine, because ageing oil becomes diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear. 2 Make sure that you have all the necessary tools before you begin this procedure. You should also have plenty of rags or newspapers handy, for mopping up any spills. The oil should preferably be changed when the engine is still fully warmed-up to normal operating temperature, just after a run; warm oil and sludge will flow out more easily. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine when working under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of scalding, and to protect yourself

from possible skin irritants and other harmful contaminants in used engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. Access to the underside of the vehicle is greatly improved if the vehicle can be lifted on a hoist, driven onto ramps, or supported by axle stands. (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Whichever method is chosen, make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain point is at the lowest point.

3 Position the draining container under the drain plug, and unscrew the plug. On some models, a square-section wrench may be needed to slacken the plug (see illustration). If possible, try to keep the plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns (see Haynes Hint).

1•8 Maintenance procedures

3.3 Slackening the sump drain plug with a square section wrench

Every 6000 miles or 6 months

Keep the drain plug pressed into the sump while unscrewing it by hand the last couple of turns. As the plug releases, move it away sharply so that the stream of oil issuing from the sump runs into the container, not up your sleeve!

4 Allow the oil to drain into the container, and check the condition of the plug’s sealing washer; renew it if worn or damaged. 5 Allow some time for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle; when the oil has completely drained, wipe clean the drain plug and its threads in the sump and refit the plug, tightening it securely. 6 If the filter is also to be renewed, move the container into position under the oil filter, which is located on the front side of the cylinder block. On XV, XW and XY series engines, place some rag around the filter otherwise the oil that runs out as the filter is unscrewed will make a mess all over the front of the engine. 7 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way (see illustration). Empty the oil in the old filter into the container. 8 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and sludge from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring hasn’t stuck to the engine. If it has, carefully remove it. 9 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine. Tighten the filter firmly by hand only - do not use any tools. 10 Remove the old oil and all tools from under the car, then lower the car to the ground (if applicable). 11 Remove the dipstick, then unscrew the oil filler cap from the rocker/cylinder head cover or oil filler/breather neck (as applicable). Fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil (see “Lubricants and fluids, and capacities”). An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage. Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the lower mark on the dipstick. Adding approximately 1.5 litres will bring the level up to the upper mark on the dipstick. Refit the filler cap.

12 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the sump drain plug. Note that there may be a delay of a few seconds before the oil pressure warning light goes out when the engine is first started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter (if fitted) before the pressure builds up. 13 Switch off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter completely full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. 14 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with reference to “General repair procedures” in the preliminary Sections of this manual.

4 Front brake pad check

1 Jack up the front of the vehicle, and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). 2 For better access to the brake calipers, remove the roadwheels.

3 If any of the pads friction material is worn to the specified thickness or less, all four pads must be renewed as a set. 4 For a comprehensive check, the brake pads should be removed and cleaned. The operation of the caliper can then also be checked, and the condition of the brake disc itself can be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 9 for further information.

5 Automatic transmission fluid

level check

1 Take the vehicle on a short journey, to warm the transmission up to normal operating temperature, then park the vehicle on level ground. The fluid level is checked using the dipstick located at the front of the engine compartment, directly in front of the engine (see illustration). The dipstick top is brightlycoloured for easy identification. 2 With the engine idling and the selector lever in the “P” (Park) position, withdraw the dipstick from the tube, and wipe all the fluid from its end with a clean rag or paper towel. Insert the clean dipstick back into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it once more. Note the fluid level on the end of the dipstick; it should be between the upper and lower marks (see illustration). 3 If topping-up is necessary, add the required quantity of the specified fluid to the transmission via the dipstick tube. Use a funnel with a finemesh gauze, to avoid spillage, and to ensure that no foreign matter enters the transmission.

Note: Never overfill the transmission so that the fluid level is above the upper mark.

4 After topping-up, take the vehicle on a short run to distribute the fresh fluid, then recheck the level again, topping-up if necessary. 5 Always maintain the level between the two dipstick marks. If the level is allowed to fall below the lower mark, fluid starvation may result, which could lead to severe transmission damage. 6 Frequent need for topping-up indicates that there is a leak, which should be found and corrected before it becomes serious.

Every 6000 miles or 6 months 1•9

5.2 Automatic fluid dipstick lower (a) and upper (b) fluid level markings

For a quick check, the thickness of the friction material on each brake pad can be measured through

the aperture in the caliper body

3.7 Using an oil filter removal tool to slacken the filter 5.1 Withdrawing the automatic transmission fluid dipstick

6 Underbonnet check for fluid

leaks and hose condition

Warning: Renewal of any air conditioning hoses (where fitted) must be left to a dealer

service department or air conditioning specialist who has the equipment to depressurise the system safely. Never remove air conditioning components or hoses until the system has been depressurised.

General

1 High temperatures in the engine compartment can cause the deterioration of the rubber and plastic hoses used for engine, accessory and emission systems operation. Periodic inspection should be made for cracks, loose clamps, material hardening and leaks. 2 Carefully check the large top and bottom radiator hoses, along with the other smallerdiameter cooling system hoses and metal pipes; do not forget the heater hoses/pipes which run from the engine to the bulkhead. Inspect each hose along its entire length, replacing any that are cracked, swollen or shows signs of deterioration. Cracks may become more apparent if the hose is squeezed (see Haynes Hint). 3 Make sure that all hose connections are tight. If the spring clamps that are used to secure some of the hoses appear to be slackening, they should be renewed to prevent the possibility of leaks. 4 Some other hoses are secured to their fittings with screw type clips. Where screw type clips are used, check to be sure they haven’t slackened, allowing the hose to leak. If clamps or screw type clips aren’t used, make sure the hose has not expanded and/or hardened where it slips over the fitting, allowing it to leak. 5 Check all fluid reservoirs, filler caps, drain plugs and fittings etc, looking for any signs of leakage of oil, transmission and/or brake hydraulic fluid, coolant and power steering fluid. If the vehicle is regularly parked in the same place, close inspection of the ground underneath will soon show any leaks; ignore the puddle of water which will be left if the air conditioning system is in use. As soon as a leak is detected, its source must be traced and rectified. Where oil has been leaking for some time, it is usually necessary to use a steam cleaner, pressure washer or similar, to clean away the accumulated dirt, so that the exact source of the leak can be identified.

Vacuum hoses

6 It’s quite common for vacuum hoses, especially those in the emissions system, to be numbered or colour-coded, or to be identified by coloured stripes moulded into them. Various systems require hoses with different wall thicknesses, collapse resistance

and temperature resistance. When renewing hoses, be sure the new ones are made of the same material. 7 Often the only effective way to check a hose is to remove it completely from the vehicle. If more than one hose is removed, be sure to label the hoses and fittings to ensure correct installation. 8 When checking vacuum hoses, be sure to include any plastic T-fittings in the check. Inspect the fittings for cracks, and check the hose where it fits over the fitting for distortion, which could cause leakage. 9 A small piece of vacuum hose can be used as a stethoscope to detect vacuum leaks. Hold one end of the hose to your ear, and probe around vacuum hoses and fittings, listening for the “hissing” sound characteristic of a vacuum leak.

Warning: When probing with the vacuum hose stethoscope, be very careful not to come into

contact with moving engine components such as the auxiliary drivebelt, radiator electric cooling fan, etc.

Fuel hoses

Warning: Before carrying out the

following operation, refer to the

precautions given in “Safety

first!” at the beginning of this manual, and follow them implicitly. Petrol is a highly dangerous and volatile liquid, and the precautions necessary when handling it cannot be overstressed.

10 Check all fuel hoses for deterioration and chafing. Check especially for cracks in areas where the hose bends, and also just before fittings, such as where a hose attaches to the carburettor or fuel rail. 11 High-quality fuel line, usually identified by the word “Fluoroelastomer” printed on the hose, should be used for fuel line renewal. Never, under any circumstances, use unreinforced vacuum line, clear plastic tubing or water hose for fuel lines. 12 Spring-type clamps are commonly used on fuel lines. These clamps often lose their tension over a period of time, and can be “sprung” during removal. Replace all spring-

type clamps with screw clips whenever a hose is replaced.

Metal lines

13 Sections of metal piping are often used for fuel line between the fuel filter and the engine. Check carefully to be sure the piping has not been bent or crimped, and that cracks have not started in the line. 14 If a section of metal fuel line must be renewed, only seamless steel piping should be used, since copper and aluminium piping don’t have the strength necessary to withstand normal engine vibration. 15 Check the metal brake lines where they enter the master cylinder and ABS hydraulic unit for cracks in the lines or loose fittings. Any sign of brake fluid leakage calls for an immediate and thorough inspection of the brake system.

7 Spark plug renewal

1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is vital for the correct running and efficiency of the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the engine (a suitable type is specified at the beginning of this Chapter). If this type is used and the engine is in good condition, the spark plugs should not need attention between scheduled replacement intervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary, and should not be attempted unless specialised equipment is available, as damage can easily be caused to the firing ends. 2 If the marks on the original-equipment spark plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark the leads “1” to “4”, to correspond to the cylinder the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is at the transmission end of the engine). Pull the leads from the plugs by gripping the end fitting, not the lead, otherwise the lead connection may be fractured. 3 It is advisable to remove the dirt from the spark plug recesses using a clean brush, vacuum cleaner or compressed air before removing the plugs, to prevent dirt dropping into the cylinders. 4 Unscrew the plugs using a spark plug spanner, suitable box spanner or a deep socket and extension bar (see illustration).

1•10 Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

7.4 Tools required for spark plug removal, gap adjustment and refitting

A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as white or rust-coloured deposits on the area adjoining the leak

Keep the socket aligned with the spark plug if it is forcibly moved to one side, the ceramic insulator may be broken off. As each plug is removed, examine it as follows. 5 Examination of the spark plugs will give a good indication of the condition of the engine. If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug transfers heat away from the electrode slowly, a cold plug transfers heat away quickly). 6 If the tip and insulator nose are covered with hard black-looking deposits, then this is indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that the engine is fairly worn, as well as the mixture being too rich. 7 If the insulator nose is covered with light tan to greyish-brown deposits, then the mixture is correct and it is likely that the engine is in good condition. 8 The spark plug electrode gap is of considerable importance as, if it is too large or too small, the size of the spark and its efficiency will be seriously impaired. The gap should be set to the value given in the Specifications at the beginning of this Chapter. 9 To set the gap, measure it with a feeler blade, and then bend open, or closed, the outer plug electrode until the correct gap is achieved (see illustration). The centre electrode should never be bent, as this may crack the insulator and cause plug failure, if nothing worse. If using feeler blades, the gap is correct when the appropriate-size blade is a firm sliding fit. 10 Special spark plug electrode gap adjusting tools are available from most motor accessory shops, or from some spark plug manufacturers (see illustration). 11 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that the threaded connector sleeves are tight, and that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are clean (see Haynes Hint). 12 Remove the rubber hose (if used), and tighten the plug to the specified torque using the spark plug socket and a torque wrench. Refit the remaining spark plugs in the same manner. 13 Connect the HT leads in their correct order, and refit any components removed for access.

8 Throttle and choke cable

lubrication and adjustment

1 The throttle cable is connected to a spring-loaded reel which pivots on the face of the cylinder head. On certain models, the reel then operates the throttle lever on the carburettor through a plastic balljointed control rod. 2 Sparingly apply a few drops of light oil to the throttle spindles, linkage pivot points and to the cable itself. Similarly lubricate the exposed ends of the choke cable (where fitted). 3 Check that there is a small amount of slackness in the cable so that the throttle linkage closes fully with the accelerator pedal released. Also check that full throttle can be obtained with the accelerator pedal fully depressed. 4 If there is any doubt about the cable adjustment, refer to the relevant Parts of Chapter 4 for the full adjustment procedure.

9 Auxiliary drivebelt check and

renewal

1 Depending on specification, either one or two auxiliary drivebelts are fitted. Where two belts are fitted, it will obviously be necessary to remove the outer belt in order to renew the inner belt.

Checking the auxiliary drivebelt condition

2 Apply the handbrake, then jack up the front of the car and support it on axle stands. Remove the right-hand front roadwheel. 3 From underneath the front of the car, prise out the retaining clips, and remove the plastic cover from the wing valance where necessary, to gain access to the crankshaft sprocket/pulley bolt. 4 Using a suitable socket and extension bar fitted to the crankshaft sprocket/pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft so that the entire length of the drivebelt(s) can be examined. Examine the drivebelt(s) for cracks, splitting, fraying or

damage. Check also for signs of glazing (shiny patches) and for separation of the belt plies. Renew the belt if worn or damaged. 5 If the condition of the belt is satisfactory, check the drivebelt tension as described below.

Auxiliary drivebelt - removal, refitting and tensioning

Removal

6 If not already done, proceed as described

in paragraphs 2 and 3.

7 Disconnect the battery negative lead. 8 Slacken both the alternator upper and lower

mounting nuts/bolts (as applicable). 9 Push the alternator toward the engine until the belt is slack then slip the drivebelt from the pulleys. Where an adjuster bolt is fitted, back off the adjuster to relieve the tension in the drivebelt, then slip off the belt (see

illustration).

Refitting

10 If the belt is being renewed, ensure that

the correct type is used. Fit the belt around the pulleys, and take up the slack in the belt

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•11

7.9 Measuring the spark plug gap with a feeler blade

7.10 Measuring the spark plug gap with a wire gauge

9.9 Slackening the alternator adjuster bolt to release the auxiliary drivebelt

It is very often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without crossthreading them. To avoid this possibility, fit a short length of 5/16 inch internal diameter rubber hose over the end of the spark plug. The flexible hose acts as a universal joint to help align the plug with the plug hole. Should the plug begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage to the aluminium cylinder head

by moving the alternator by hand, or tightening the adjuster bolt. 11 Tension the drivebelt as described in the following paragraphs.

Tensioning

12 If not already done, proceed as described

in paragraphs 2 and 3. 13 Correct tensioning of the drivebelt will ensure that it has a long life. A belt which is too slack will slip and perhaps squeal. Beware, however, of overtightening, as this can cause wear in the alternator bearings. 14 The belt should be tensioned so that, under firm thumb pressure, there is approximately 5.0 mm of free movement at the mid-point between the pulleys on the longest belt run. 15 To adjust, with the upper mounting nut/bolt just holding the alternator firm, and the lower mounting nut/bolt loosened, lever the alternator away from the engine, or turn the adjuster bolt until the correct tension is achieved. Rotate the crankshaft a couple of times, recheck the tension, then securely tighten both the alternator mounting nuts/bolts. Where applicable, also tighten the bolt securing the adjuster strap to its mounting bracket.

16 Reconnect the battery negative lead. 17 Refit the plastic cover to the wing valance.

Refit the roadwheel, and lower the vehicle to the ground.

10 Clutch pedal stroke

adjustment

1 The clutch pedal stroke adjustment is checked by measuring the clutch pedal travel. Before doing this, settle the cable by depressing and releasing it a few times. 2 Ensure that there are no obstructions beneath the clutch pedal then measure the distance from the centre of the clutch pedal pad to the base of the steering wheel with the pedal in the at-rest position. Depress the clutch pedal fully to the floor, and measure the distance from the centre of the clutch pedal pad to the base of the steering wheel (see

illustration).

3 Subtract the first measurement from the

second to obtain the clutch pedal travel. If this is not with the range given in the Specifications at the start of this Chapter, adjust the clutch as follows. 4 On models fitted with the BH3 transmission, loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster on the transmission intermediate lever pushrod as necessary. On all other models, slacken the locknut and turn the adjuster nut on the end of the cable. 5 Check the pedal stroke again and make further adjustments as necessary. When all is correct, tighten the relevant locknut.

11 Seat belt check

Check the seat belts for satisfactory operation and condition. Inspect the webbing for fraying and cuts. Check that they retract smoothly and without binding into their reels.

Check the seat belt mountings, ensuring that all the bolts are securely tightened.

12 Lock and hinge check and

lubrication

1 Check that the doors, bonnet and tailgate close securely. Check that the bonnet safety catch operates correctly. Check the operation of the door check straps. 2 Lubricate the hinges, door check straps, the striker plates and the bonnet catch sparingly with a little oil or grease. 3 If any of the doors, bonnet or tailgate/boot lid do not close effectively or appear not to be flush with the surrounding panels, carry out the relevant adjustment procedures contained in Chapter 11.

13 Rear brake shoe check -

models with rear drum brakes

Remove the rear brake drums, and check the brake shoes for signs of wear or contamination. At the same time, also inspect the wheel cylinders for signs of leakage, and the brake drum for signs of wear. Refer to the relevant Sections of Chapter 9 for further information.

14 Rear brake pad condition

check - models with rear disc

brakes

1 Chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”). Remove the rear roadwheels. 2 For a quick check, the thickness of friction material remaining on each brake pad can be

measured through the top of the caliper body. If any pad’s friction material is worn to the specified thickness or less, all four pads must be renewed as a set. 3 For a comprehensive check, the brake pads should be removed and cleaned. This will permit the operation of the caliper to be checked, and the condition of the brake disc itself to be fully examined on both sides. Refer to Chapter 9 for further information.

15 Handbrake check and

adjustment

Refer to Chapter 9.

16 Underbody and fuel/brake

line check

1 With the vehicle raised and supported on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”), or over an inspection pit, thoroughly inspect the underbody and wheel arches for signs of damage and corrosion. In particular, examine the bottom of the side sills, and any concealed areas where mud can collect. Where corrosion and rust is evident, press and tap firmly on the panel with a screwdriver, and check for any serious corrosion which would necessitate repairs. If the panel is not seriously corroded, clean away the rust, and apply a new coating of underseal. Refer to Chapter 11 for more details of body repairs. 2 At the same time, inspect the treated lower body panels for stone damage and general condition. 3 Inspect all of the fuel and brake lines on the underbody for damage, rust, corrosion and leakage. Also make sure that they are correctly supported in their clips. Where applicable, check the PVC coating on the lines for damage. 4 Inspect the flexible brake hoses in the vicinity of the calipers, where they are subjected to most movement. Bend them between the fingers (but do not actually bend them double, or the casing may be damaged) and check that this does not reveal previously-hidden cracks, cuts or splits.

17 Exhaust system check

1 With the engine cold (at least three hours after the vehicle has been driven), check the complete exhaust system, from its starting point at the engine to the end of the tailpipe. Ideally, this should be done on a hoist, where unrestricted access is available; if a hoist is not available, raise and support the vehicle on axle stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”).

1•12 Every 12 000 miles or 12 months

10.2 To check the clutch pedal stroke, measure the clutch pedal travel as

described in the text

2 Check the pipes and connections for

evidence of leaks, severe corrosion, or damage. Make sure that all brackets and rubber mountings are in good condition, and tight; if any of the mountings are to be renewed, ensure that the replacements are of the correct type. Leakage at any of the joints or in other parts of the system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity of the leak. 3 At the same time, inspect the underside of the body for holes, corrosion, open seams, etc. which may allow exhaust gases to enter the passenger compartment. Seal all body openings with silicone or body putty. 4 Rattles and other noises can often be traced to the exhaust system, especially the rubber mountings. Try to move the system, silencer(s) and catalytic converter. If any components can touch the body or suspension parts, secure the exhaust system with new mountings.

18 Bodywork, paint and exterior

trim check

1 The best time to carry out this check is after the car has been washed so that any surface blemish or scratch will be clearly evident and not hidden by a film of dirt. 2 Starting at one front corner check the paintwork all around the car, looking for minor scratches or more serious dents. Check all the trim and make sure that it is securely attached over its entire length. 3 Check the security of all door locks, door mirrors, badges, bumpers, radiator grille and wheel trim. Anything found loose, or in need of further attention should be done with reference to the relevant Chapters of this manual. 4 Rectify any problems noticed with the paintwork or body panels as described in Chapter 11.

19 Headlight beam alignment

check

Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam is only possible using optical beam-setting setting equipment, and this work should therefore be carried out by a Peugeot dealer or service station with the necessary facilities.

Basic adjustments can be carried out in an emergency, and further details are given in Chapter 12.

20 Air conditioning system

check

Warning: The air conditioning system is under high pressure. Do not loosen any fittings or

remove any components until after the system has been discharged. Air conditioning refrigerant must be properly discharged into an approved type of container, at a dealer service department or an automotive air conditioning repair facility capable of handling the refrigerant safely. Always wear eye protection when disconnecting air conditioning system fittings.

1 The following maintenance checks should be performed on a regular basis, to ensure that the system continues to operate at peak efficiency:

a) Check the auxiliary drivebelt. If it’s worn

or deteriorated, renew it.

b) Check the system hoses. Look for cracks,

bubbles, hard spots and deterioration. Inspect the hoses and all fittings for oil bubbles and seepage. If there’s any evidence of wear, damage or leaks, renew the hose(s).

c) Inspect the condenser fins for leaves,

insects and other debris. Use a “fin

comb” or compressed air to clean the condenser.

Warning: Wear eye protection when using compressed air!

d) Check that the drain tube from the front

of the evaporator is clear - note that it is normal to have clear fluid (water) dripping from this while the system is in operation, to the extent that quite a large puddle can be left under the vehicle when it is parked.

2 It’s a good idea to operate the system for about 30 minutes at least once a month, particularly during the winter. Long term non-use can cause hardening, and subsequent failure, of the seals. 3 Because of the complexity of the air conditioning system and the special equipment necessary to service it, in-depth repairs are not included in this manual, apart from those procedures covered in Chapter 3. 4 The most common cause of poor cooling is simply a low system refrigerant charge. If a noticeable drop in cool air output occurs, the following quick check will help you determine if the refrigerant level is low. 5 Warm the engine up to normal operating temperature. 6 Place the air conditioning temperature selector at the coldest setting, and put the blower at the highest setting. Open the doors

- to make sure the air conditioning system doesn’t cycle off as soon as it cools the passenger compartment. 7 With the compressor engaged - the clutch will make an audible click, and the centre of the clutch will rotate - feel the inlet and outlet pipes at the compressor. One side should be cold, and one hot. If there’s no perceptible difference between the two pipes, there’s something wrong with the compressor or the system. It might be a low charge - it might be something else. Take the vehicle to a dealer service department or an automotive air conditioning specialist.

21 Manual transmission oil level

check

Note: The following procedure is only applicable to models produced after approximately October 1986. There is no provision on the transmission for fluid level checking on earlier transmissions (see Chapter 7A). Suitable square-section wrench may be required to undo the transmission filler/level plug on some models. These wrenches can be obtained from most motor factors or your Peugeot dealer.

1 Park the car on a level surface. The oil level must be checked before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off. If the oil is checked immediately after driving the car, some of the oil will remain distributed around the transmission components, resulting in an inaccurate level reading. 2 Prise out the retaining clips and remove the access cover from the left-hand wheelarch liner. 3 Wipe clean the area around the filler/level plug, which is situated on the left-hand end of the transmission (see illustration). Unscrew the plug and clean it; discard the sealing washer.

Every 12 000 miles or 12 months 1•13

21.3 Using a square section wrench to

unscrew the transmission filler/level plug

(MA transmission shown)

Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

4 The oil level should reach the lower edge of

the filler/level hole. A certain amount of oil will have gathered behind the filler/level plug, and will trickle out when it is removed; this does not necessarily indicate that the level is correct. To ensure that a true level is established, wait until the initial trickle has stopped, then add oil as necessary until a trickle of new oil can be seen emerging (see illustration). The level will be correct when the flow ceases; use only good-quality oil of the specified type (refer to “Lubricants, fluids and capacities”). 5 Filling the transmission with oil is an extremely awkward operation; above all, allow plenty of time for the oil level to settle properly before checking it. If a large amount is added to the transmission, and a large amount flows out on checking the level, refit the filler/level plug and take the vehicle on a short journey so that the new oil is distributed fully around the transmission components, then recheck the level when it has settled again. 6 If the transmission has been overfilled so that oil flows out as soon as the filler/level plug is removed, check that the car is completely level (front-to-rear and side-toside), and allow the surplus to drain off into a suitable container. 7 When the level is correct, fit a new sealing washer to the filler/level plug. Refit the plug, tightening it to the specified torque wrench setting. Wash off any spilt oil then refit the access cover securing it in position with the retaining clips.

22 Manual transmission oil

renewal

This service requirement is only applicable to pre-1988 BE1 transmissions. Refer to the procedures contained in Chapter 7A.

23 Automatic transmission fluid

renewal

1 Take the vehicle on a short run, to warm the transmission up to normal operating temperature. 2 Park the car on level ground, then switch off the ignition and apply the handbrake firmly. For improved access, jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands. Note that, when refilling and checking the fluid level, the car must be lowered to the ground, and level, to ensure accuracy. 3 Remove the dipstick, then position a suitable container under the transmission. The transmission has two drain plugs: one on the sump, and another on the bottom of the differential housing (see illustration).

Warning: If the fluid is hot, take precautions against scalding.

4 Unscrew both drain plugs, and allow the fluid to drain completely into the container. Clean the drain plugs, being especially careful to wipe any metallic particles off the magnetic insert. Discard the original sealing washers;

these should be renewed whenever they are disturbed. 5 When the fluid has finished draining, clean the drain plug threads and those of the transmission casing. Fit a new sealing washer to each drain plug, and refit the plugs to the transmission, tightening each securely. If the car was raised for the draining operation, now lower it to the ground. Make sure that the car is level (front-to-rear and side-to-side). 6 Refilling the transmission is an awkward operation, adding the specified type of fluid to the transmission a little at a time via the dipstick tube. Use a funnel with a fine-mesh gauze, to avoid spillage, and to ensure that no foreign matter enters the transmission. Allow plenty of time for the fluid level to settle properly. 7 Once the level is up to the “MAX” mark on the dipstick, refit the dipstick. Start the engine, and allow it to idle for a few minutes. Switch the engine off, then recheck the level, topping-up if necessary. Take the car on a short run to fully distribute the new fluid around the transmission, then recheck the fluid level as described in Section 5.

24 Driveshaft bellows check

With the vehicle raised and securely supported on stands (see “Jacking and vehicle support”), turn the steering onto full lock, then slowly rotate the roadwheel. Inspect the condition of the outer constant velocity (CV) joint rubber bellows, squeezing the bellows to open out the folds (see illustration). Check for signs of cracking, splits or deterioration of the rubber, which may allow the grease to escape, and lead to water and grit entry into the joint. Also check the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the inner CV joints. If any damage or deterioration is found, the bellows should be renewed as described in Chapter 8.

At the same time, check the general condition of the CV joints themselves by first holding the driveshaft and attempting to rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding

1•14 Every 24 000 miles or 2 years

21.4 Topping-up the transmission oil level

23.3 Automatic transmission fluid drain plugs (arrowed). Transmission is refilled via the dipstick tube (1)

24.1 Check the condition of the driveshaft bellows (arrowed)

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