Corporate Ofce: PerTronix Inc. 440 E. Arrow Highway, San Dimas, California 91773 * Phone 909.599.5955 • FAX 909.599.6424
Installation Instructions
and Warranty Information
Chevrolet & GMC C/K, Yukon/Tahoe/ Denali,
Suburban, Cadillac Escalade, 5.0/5.7
1832S 1996-99 w/o AIR Inj.
1832S-2 1998-2000 w/ AIR Inj.
Read all instructions carefully before attempting installation.
Rev 2 2-28-13 DSL
PerTronix© thanks you for choosing JBA HEADERS, the best fitting, highest quality
header on the market. In order to realize the full potential of our good fit, please read and
understand these instructions completely prior to starting work.
Check to make sure you received the proper parts for your application. The header number will be stamped on the engine flange. If you are unsure you have received the proper
parts call before you start work.
Be sure to work safe! Whenever you work under the vehicle be sure that it is located on
level, solid ground and is supported by adequate safety stands! Remember: Hot asphalt
will not support most jack stands!
Many factors affect the installation of headers, some of which are broken or aftermarket
motor mounts, accidents that impact the configuration of the frame, and/or the installation
of different engines or aftermarket cylinder heads.
Attention Customers breaking in new engines: Due to the extreme heat generated during
the break-in process, the appearance of the ceramic coating may be altered in certain areas.
The protection characteristics and thermal barrier properties of the coating is never compromised. It is recommended that a cast iron manifold or old set of headers be used for this
process.
Notice: The coating of these headers can be marred or scratched during installation. If the
header needs to be returned and is damaged, you will be charged for recoat.
JBA uses sealing beads on all its headers. We have found that when installed correctly, the raised
bead around each port increases the pressure exerted on the gasket directly adjacent to the port
and effectively prevents leaking gaskets. It is normal for the flange to be raised off the cylinder
head the thickness of the sealing bead. It is important when installing the header, to install all
bolts loosely, then tighten evenly to ensure the flat installation of the flange. The torque sequence from one flange to another will vary, but generally every bolt on a header should be first
fit snug, starting from the inside of the flange working out, alternating from top to bottom so that
the bolt connects the flange to the manifold to the point where they barely touch. Second, using
the same inside-out pattern, tighten each bolt until finished. This method will help prevent leakage and will give the user the best possible performance out of their pair of headers.
1. Place vehicle in a location where the floor is solid and flat, with adequate lighting. Do not attempt to work on a hot engine. Heat
causes metal to expand and makes removal of fasteners difficult at best. Disconnect the battery cables from the battery. Raise the front
of the vehicle to obtain adequate access to the bottom exhaust manifold flanges. Use large-base jack stands to support the vehicle. Do
not rely on the jack! Block the tires to prevent the vehicle from rolling off the jack stands.
2. Begin with the driver’s side. (It is the more difficult of the two sides) Spray WD-40 or some type of penetrating oil on all accessible
fasteners and ttings before attempting to remove them. From the bottom side, unbolt the bottom ange nuts (where the manifold connects to the exhaust system). The stock nuts are intentionally deformed to prevent them from pre-maturely loosening. This also makes
removal difficult. Apply as much torque as necessary to remove the nuts. The nuts may not turn and the stud may begin to unthread
from the manifold. This is a problem because the studs have shoulders, which will not pull through the exhaust flange. If the stud
comes loose, reverse your wrench and tighten the stud back into the manifold solidly. Try again to remove the nuts. If the nuts are still
jammed on, apply heat to the nut with an acetylene torch. Try again to remove the nuts. If all else fails cut the nuts off. The Headers
are supplied with new bolts and nuts for reinstallation.
3. On the topside: Unbolt the spark plug wire looms from the cylinder heads. Do not skip this step. Otherwise the spark plug looms
will hold the head flange out, away from the head, preventing the headers from sealing. Disconnect the spark plug wires by grasping and gently twisting the spark plug wire boots. Do not pull on the wires. Set the wires and looms up out of the way. Brush or blow
away any debris, which may have collected around the manifolds and spark plugs. This will help prevent foreign matter from entering
the combustion chambers when the manifolds are removed. Removal of the spark plugs is not necessary, but it may avoid accidental
spark plug breakage. Disconnect the EGR tube from the manifold. Remove bolts attaching manifold to the head, then remove manifold.
4. Using a small wire brush or other instrument, remove any carbon deposits left on the exhaust flange-mating surface of the head.
Thoroughly clean the surface with solvent or another cleaner. Remove the doughnut-shaped gasket from the lower flange (where the
manifold bolts to the exhaust system). The headers use a steel dome in place of this gasket. Remove any excess carbon deposits from
the lower flange.
5. On the driver’s side use the 3/8” x 1” bolts supplied. Apply a thin coating of sealant to the collector dome where it mates to the
lower flange. Permatex Ultra-Copper High-Temp Sealant is recommended. DO NOT use a sealant that is not designed to be used with
O2 sensors. (Also note that if excessive sealant is applied, clumps may fall into the exhaust system and clog the Catalytic Converter.)
Re-attach the EGR tube to the header. Bolt the header to the head. Torque all 6 fasteners to factory specications (30-35 ft./lbs.)
6. To reinstall the spark plug wire looms, use the supplied 1/2” tubular spacer and 1/4” bolt. The spark plug wire loom will now sit
outward of the header flange rather than against the head.
7. The Passenger Side: Unbolt the manifold from the exhaust system from under the vehicle as on the driver’s side. Disconnect the
spark plug wires from the spark plugs. Unbolt the Spark Plug wire looms and put them up out of the way. The dipstick tube is bolted
to the head via the forward spark plug wire loom bolt. With the bolt removed, the dipstick tube can be removed by gently wiggling the
tube while pulling upward. (The bottom of the tube is pressed into a receptacle in the engine.) Unbolt the manifold from the head and
remove. As with the driver’s side, clean the head flange and lower flange where the header will attach to the exhaust system. Remember to remove the doughnut shaped gasket.
8. As with the driver’s side, apply silicone to the dome flange, and bolt the headers to the head and the exhaust system. Re-install the
dipstick. Reattach the spark plug looms in the same manner as the driver’s side.
9. Using the supplied fasteners, bolt the Header to the bottom flange. The nuts are jam nuts. Therefore they will not spin freely. This is
normal. Torque to 30-35 ft. lbs.
10. Recheck everything!
11. Start the engine and let it warm up. Check for leaks. Shut engine off and let it cool down. Check to make sure all fasteners are
tight.
12. Periodically check and retighten the header bolts.
Parts List:
(1) Driver’s Side Header Assembly (4) 1/4”I.D. x 1/2” long spacer
(1) Passenger’s Side Header Assembly (4) 1/4”x 1 ”bolts
(12) 3/8” x 1” header bolts & lock washers (4) 1/4”-20 x 1-1/4 bolts (For 1832-2 only)
(2) Header gaskets (4) 1/4”Lock washers (For 1832-2 only)
(6) Collector Bolts, Nuts &Washers. (4) 1/4”-20 nuts (For 1832-2 only)
LIMITED ONE YEAR WARRANTY
All JBA HEADERS and exhaust products are guaranteed, to the original purchaser, to be free of defects in materials and workmanship for one year. This warranty
covers the replacement or repair of the product only and does not cover the cost
of removal and installation, customer applied aftermarket coatings or any discolor-
ation or corrosion of nished surfaces.
Damage or product failure resulting from collision, improper installation, off-road
use, road hazards, the use of exhaust insulating wrap or like products or rust occurring after installation, is not covered by the warranty. The warranty extends only
to the original purchaser.
Should a part become defective it should be returned to the original selling retailer
and must be accompanied with the sales receipt. If there is no retailer in your area,
call the factory for a return authorization and return your part prepaid to the factory
for inspection. PerTronix reserves the rights to replace or repair the alleged defective part and return the part freight collect.
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