General Safety ...................................................................................................................................................................................... 3
Installation and Operation ..................................................................................................................................................................... 4
Parts Index ...........................................................................................................................................................................................10
This manual contains important instructions that should be
followed during installation, operation, and maintenance of the
product.
This is the safety alert symbol. When you see this symbol
on your pump or in this manual, look for one of the following
signal words and be alert to the potential for personal injury!
indicates a hazard which, if not avoided, will
result in death or serious injur y.
indicates a hazard which, if not avoided, can
result in death or serious injur y.
indicates a hazard which, if not avoided, can or
may result in minor or moderate injury.
NOTE: addresses practices not related to personal injury.
CALIFORNIA PROPOSITION 65 WARNING
This product and related accessories contain
chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer,
birth defects or other reproductive harm.
Positive displacement pumps must have a
proper size and operable type of pressure regulating valve or
pressure relief valve piped into the discharge line. This is
mandatory to prevent damage to pump and piping or possible
injury to personnel. Do not install any valves or shut-off
devices in the bypass line from pressure regulator to tank or
supply.
All pumps should be installed level. For mobile
applications the maximum angle of intermittent operation
should be no more than 5 degrees in any one direction.
BEFORE OPERATION
Reasonable care and safe meth ods should be practiced. Check
local codes and requirements before installation.
NOTE: This manual contains important information for the
safe use of this product. Read this manual completely before
using this product and refer to it often for con tin ued safe
product use. DO NOT THROW AWAY OR LOSE THIS MAN U AL.
Keep it in a safe place so that you may refer to it often.
26850A004 (03/15/21)
3
INSTALLATION AND OPERATION
BELT DRIVE SEWER CLEANERS
With belt drives, the pulley on both the engine and pump
should be located as closely as possible to the bearing to
reduce bearing and shaft bending loads.
Make sure that all bolts, nuts, set screws and keys are
properly tightened.
On multiple V-belt drives, a complete set of belts should
be installed when making a replacement.
STARTING PUMP
Fill pump crankcase with recommended oil to the level
mark on the oil saber. Oil recommendations are covered in
lubrication section of pump instructions. Replace all drain
plugs in pump and piping.
Inspect tank to be sure that no foreign material is in tank
or suction line. Fill tank at least half full or connect suction
to water supply.
Open valve (if present) in suction line. Avoid prolonged dry
operation which may cause excessive wear on cylinders
and piston packing.
Be sure that an operating pressure gauge is located in the
discharge line. Make sure all valves, including spray gun
or nozzles, are open in the discharge line. Spray gun may
be anchored to discharge back into the tank. Completely
back off pressure adjusting screw on the pressure
regulating valve.
After starting, close discharge valve or spray gun slowly
while watching pressure gauge to make sure relief valve or
unloader is operating properly.
Adjust relief valve or unloader to desired pressure. See
regulator instructions. Cycle nozzles or gun on and off to
be sure that pressure adjustment and regulator operation
is satisfactory. Nozzle capacity should not exceed 90% of
pump capacity for satisfactory regulator operation.
Avoid freezing by draining all water from pump and system
in cold weather.
SUGGESTED MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
Check oil level – Daily. Drain at operating temperature to
prevent contamination from settling.
Drain and change oil – 300 hrs. Inspect frequently for
leakage; replace before 500 hours if any cylinder exceeds
10 drops per minute leakage. Packing may not look badly
worn but will often be shiny and hard and won’t seal well.
Replace piston packing – 500 hrs. Replace if cracks and
heavy wear are present.
Inspect valves and springs – 500 hrs.
Inspect connecting link bearing inserts – 1000 hrs.
Replace at first signs of fatigue or wear to prevent damage
to crankshaft.
Fill gear case with Mobilgear 630 or equivalent 80W90 oil to
6-1/2 qts for 1000-1800 pinion rpm range and 7-1/2 qts for 600999 rpm range. Maintain oil level at mark on oil dipstick.
NOTE: Slow speed operation of reciprocating pumps can be
accomplished by adding additional oil to the crankcase. The
higher level compensates for lack of splash lubrication at slow
speeds. Some slight leakage may occur around crossheads
and dipstick/vent area with additional oil.
After first 30 hours of operation drain oil from gear case
(preferably drain at operating temperature), replace plug
and refill crankcase with new oil. Change oil every 300 hours
thereafter. Check oil level daily and add oil as needed.
ADDITIVES FOR CRANKCASE OIL
Use of molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) is optional as an additive
to the petroleum-based gear case oil in back geared pumps
and speed reducers manufactured by Myers. Do not use this
additive with synthetic oil. It is so effective in reducing wear
and friction that power train life may be doubled between
overhauls.
SERVICE
Disengage clutch, disconnect electrical leads to motor or
remove spark plug leads on engine.
REMOVING PACKING
Move assembly to front end of cylinder (top dead center).
Remove valve assembly if required to provide clearance.
Remove cap screw with an Allen wrench. Retract piston rod.
Pull packing assembly out or push by rotating crankshaft by
hand.
REMOVING PISTON
After removing the nuts, clamp and cylinder cap, move
piston assembly to front end of cylinder (top dead center).
Remove valve assembly if required, to provide clearance.
Remove cap screw with a 12mm (.472") across flats Allen
wrench or use the removal tool. Use the removal tool to
screw into the piston hub and then pull piston assembly
out, using momentous, backward-forward motion with the
sliding handle bar against the bolted-anchored end.
Also inspect cylinders for linear grooving by running your
thumbnail circumferentially around bore of cylinder. If any
grooving is detected also replace cylinders. New packing
will rapidly cut or wear out in grooved cylinders.
4
26850A004 (03/15/21)
INSTALLATION AND OPERATION
INSTALLING CUP
Assemble cup onto hub. Lubricate the outside of the
assembly with Molykote® or other grease for ease in
insertion – do not use a graphite type grease.
When installing each cup assembly, rotate crankshaft
until piston rod is at forward position. Place O-ring in
position in piston hub using a small amount of grease to
hold in place.
Apply Loctite® RC35 to capscrew prior to piston
installation. Follow instructions on label and make certain
threads in piston rod are clean and free of any grease or
oil.
Assemble capscrew, etc., into piston assembly and push
into cylinder. Torque the capscrew to 50 ft/lbs using a
hexagonal socket attachment 12mm (.472") across flats.
INSTALLING PACKING
Assemble V-rings onto stud. Lubricate the outside of
the assembly with Molykote® or other grease for ease in
insertion – do not use a graphite type grease.
When installing each V-ring assembly, rotate crankshaft
until piston rod is at forward position. Place copper gasket
in position in stud using a small amount of Permatex® to
hold in place.
Apply Loctite® RC35 to cap screw prior to piston
installation. Follow instructions on label and make certain
threads in piston rod are clean and free of any grease or
oil.
Assemble cap screw, etc., into piston assembly and push
into cylinder. Torque the cap screw to 50 ft/lbs using a
hexagonal socket attachment 3/8" across flats.
REMOVING CYLINDERS
1. First remove packing as outlined previously.
2. Rotate crankshaft until piston rod is in rear position.
3. Insert puller through inside of cylinder and pilot over
piston rod. Insert disc into slots on puller.
4. Slip plate over threads on puller. Screw nut on thread on
puller and snug up. Tighten nut until liner breaks loose.
Loosen nut and slip disc out of slots.
5. Remove puller and repeat to remove other cylinders.
CYLINDER INSTALLATION
Reasonable care and judgment should be used when
installing the new cylinder.
Clean out any accumulation of loose rust or corrosion in
cylinder body. Install a new O-ring in groove on tapered
portion of cylinder, lubricate O-ring with oil or grease for
ease in insertion.
Position cylinder carefully by hand to avoid cutting the
O-ring. Drive into position firmly with a wooden block and
mallet. Never use hydraulic press; excessive force can
cause damage and make cylinders very difficult to remove
la ter.
REMOVING SEATS: WING GUIDED VALVES
1. Remove valve caps, and cylinder caps, which provide
access to suction and discharge valves.
2. Remove the stainless steel cage which serves as a valve
guide and spring retainer.
3. Remove cage, spring and valve from the pump fluid end.
4. Suction valve seats are removed as above except two stud
lengths are joined using coupling.
REPLACEMENT OF VALVES
1. Inspect tapered valve seat bore in fluid end for rust and
wipe out excess with a rag.
2. Place a new lower seat in tapered hole.
3. Drive lower seat firmly into place and repeat for upper seat
being sure to also inspect the tapered bore for rust.
IM PO RTA NT: Both the valve seat O.D. and tapered bore I.D.
must be very clean.
4. Reassemble valve, spring and cage, and confirm that
springs are in correct location.
5. When upper and lower valve seats are the same size, the
heavier spring is installed on upper or discharge valve.
6. Be sure that cage is tightened onto valve seat.
7. Inspect seals on valve and cylinder caps. Replace if seals
show signs of wear.
REPLACING PISTON ROD SEALS
The rod seal assembly contains two seals, two oil seals with
lips facing the power end. The oil seal can be replaced without
taking the fluid end off by removing the cylinder and piston to
allow access for oil seal housing.
Unscrew two Allen screws and place into the other two
tapped holes. Gradually screw them in to push oil seal
housing off the retainer.
After assembling new seals in oil seal housing an assemble
thimble should be used on the end of the crosshead rod for
sliding oil seal housing back into the retainer.
Check gasket and replace if damaged.
An assembly thimble should be used on small end of the
piston rod to expand sealing edge as it is pushed on. The
thimble should be machined from high carbon steel and
polished on the ex terior to reduce possibility of seal lip
damage.
26850A004 (03/15/21)
5
INSTALLATION AND OPERATION
REMOVING CRANKSHAFT AND PINION SHAFT
1. Remove piston assemblies.
2. Remove connecting link caps and move the linkcrosshead assembly as far forward as possible.
3. Secure separation of the crankshaft gear and gear case so
that crankshaft will be held in place against pinion shaft.
4. Remove both crankshaft bearing caps. Hold crankshaft
at ring gear and left-hand link journal to prevent dropping
into bearing bores and remove from gear case by moving
crankshaft to the right until left end can be swung free.
5. To remove pinion shaft, remove bearing cap bolts.
6. Tap the end of the pinion shaft extension to remove the
bearing cup at the opposite end.
7. After removing the pinion shaft, the remaining bearing
cup can be removed by gently tapping against the
peripheral edge of the cup.
REPLACING PINION SHAFT AND SHIMMING BEARINGS
1. After installing the link-crosshead assemblies and moving
them toward the fluid end as far as possible, press bearing
cones onto both ends of the pinion shaft, being sure
bearing seats completely against stop on shaft.
2. Place pinion and bearing cone assembly into the
crankcase, positioning the pinion gear over the crankshaft
gear. Carefully “hand” press bearing cups into both sides
of the crankcase. Tap cups until bearing cups and cone
come together and pinion is in the proper location in the
crankcase.
3. Press shaft seal into bear/seal cap. Be sure the seal lip
in both caps are installed with the lip inward towards the
center of the crankcase.
4. Install right bearing/seal cap with two .003" thick shims
and tighten cap screws.
5. Install left bearing/seal cap with one .015" thick and one
.003" thick shim and tighten screws.
6. Rotate the pinion shaft back and forth and apply about
15 lbs. of axial force to properly seat the tapered roller
bearings.
7. Measure the end play by using a dial indicator. Subtract
recommended end play of .005" to .009" from the actual
end play. This is the amount of shim that must be removed.
8. After excess shim thickness has been removed, replace
left cap and retighten cap screws.
9. Measure end play again and repeat if necessary.
REPLACING CRANKSHAFT AND SHIMMING BEARINGS
1. Press the bearing cups into the caps. Place one cap into
position on the right side with cap screws engaged about
one turn. Install crankshaft, left end first, and push both
bearing caps into place. Extreme care should be exercised
to avoid damage to gear teeth, bearings and link journals.
2. For quiet operation and long life, the crankshaft and
bearings must be installed with .003" to .005" in preload.
To adjust, loosen the four cap screws on the pinion shaft
bearing cap.
3. Place about .045" shim on the right crankshaft bearing
cap, tighten the five cap screws. Install the left cap
without shims, secure with two cap screws at 13 ft/lbs and
rotate the crankshaft. Retorque the cap screws. Repeat
three times to properly seat tapered roller bearings.
4. Measure (adjacent to the cap screws) the shim gap
remaining between the bearing cap and the gear case.
The required shim thickness for this cap is equal to the
average gap measurement plus .022". Insert correct shim
thickness under left bearing cap and tighten cap screws.
5. Install connecting links and caps and torque cap screws to
40 ft/lbs.
6. Check for adequate side clearance of links on crankshaft.
Some shims must be moved from one end to the other
until sideways movement of all links can be seen.
7. Check torque of cap screws on all bearing caps.
RECONDITIONED CRANKSHAFTS
When the crank throws are slightly damaged, they can
sometimes be reconditioned for further use. This can be done
by sandpapering and polishing until all ridges are completely
removed. The final polishing operation should be with very fine
emery cloth. If the surface is badly damaged, the crankshaft
can often be salvaged by “metalizing” the crank throw and then
regrinding and polishing to the original diameter.
SERVICING CONNECTING LINKS
The connecting rod link is furnished with replaceable split
sleeve bearing inserts at the crank throw. Do not attempt to
refit connecting links to the crankshaft bearings by filing or
grinding the mating faces of the link cap where it contacts the
link.
Always be sure that the proper side of the link is placed upward
when attaching it to the crankshaft. The upper side contains
an oil hole at the crosshead end of the link. This oil hole must
be up to allow proper oil feeding to the crosshead pin bushing.
The wrist pin is press-fitted into crosshead and slip-fitted
through the bronze bushing. Use arbor press to force in the
wrist pin. Check to see if link is free to rotate after the wrist
pin is pressed in. Verify that both sides of the wrist pin do not
protrude beyond the crosshead.
The crosshead end of the connecting link is fitted with a
bronze bushing. New replacement links are obtained, these
bushings are reamed to the proper size for immediate
installation. If only the bushing is replaced, it may be necessar y
to ream the new bushing to the proper inside diameter after it
is pressed into the link. When placing the bushing on the link
be sure that the oil holes in the bushing and link are in line after
the bushing is pressed into position.
6
26850A004 (03/15/21)
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