Pentair RECIPROCATING PUMP Installation Manual

RECIPROCATING PUMP
E SERIES
INSTALLATION AND OPERATION MANUAL
pentair.com
©2014 MY981 (06/23/14)
Part# 26850A004 03/15/21) ©2021 Pentair. All Rights Reserved.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Parts Index ...........................................................................................................................................................................................10
Warranty ............................................................................................................................................................................................. 20
GENERAL SAFETY
This manual contains important instructions that should be followed during installation, operation, and maintenance of the product.
This is the safety alert symbol. When you see this symbol on your pump or in this manual, look for one of the following signal words and be alert to the potential for personal injury!
indicates a hazard which, if not avoided, will
result in death or serious injur y.
indicates a hazard which, if not avoided, can
result in death or serious injur y.
indicates a hazard which, if not avoided, can or
may result in minor or moderate injury.
NOTE: addresses practices not related to personal injury.
CALIFORNIA PROPOSITION 65 WARNING
This product and related accessories contain chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm.
Positive displacement pumps must have a proper size and operable type of pressure regulating valve or pressure relief valve piped into the discharge line. This is mandatory to prevent damage to pump and piping or possible injury to personnel. Do not install any valves or shut-off devices in the bypass line from pressure regulator to tank or supply.
All pumps should be installed level. For mobile applications the maximum angle of intermittent operation should be no more than 5 degrees in any one direction.
BEFORE OPERATION
Reasonable care and safe meth ods should be practiced. Check local codes and requirements before installation.
NOTE: This manual contains important information for the safe use of this product. Read this manual completely before using this product and refer to it often for con tin ued safe product use. DO NOT THROW AWAY OR LOSE THIS MAN U AL. Keep it in a safe place so that you may refer to it often.
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INSTALLATION AND OPERATION
BELT DRIVE SEWER CLEANERS
With belt drives, the pulley on both the engine and pump should be located as closely as possible to the bearing to reduce bearing and shaft bending loads.
Make sure that all bolts, nuts, set screws and keys are properly tightened.
On multiple V-belt drives, a complete set of belts should be installed when making a replacement.
STARTING PUMP
Fill pump crankcase with recommended oil to the level mark on the oil saber. Oil recommendations are covered in lubrication section of pump instructions. Replace all drain plugs in pump and piping.
Inspect tank to be sure that no foreign material is in tank or suction line. Fill tank at least half full or connect suction to water supply.
Open valve (if present) in suction line. Avoid prolonged dry operation which may cause excessive wear on cylinders and piston packing.
Be sure that an operating pressure gauge is located in the discharge line. Make sure all valves, including spray gun or nozzles, are open in the discharge line. Spray gun may be anchored to discharge back into the tank. Completely back off pressure adjusting screw on the pressure regulating valve.
After starting, close discharge valve or spray gun slowly while watching pressure gauge to make sure relief valve or unloader is operating properly.
Adjust relief valve or unloader to desired pressure. See regulator instructions. Cycle nozzles or gun on and off to be sure that pressure adjustment and regulator operation is satisfactory. Nozzle capacity should not exceed 90% of pump capacity for satisfactory regulator operation.
Avoid freezing by draining all water from pump and system in cold weather.
SUGGESTED MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE
Check oil level – Daily. Drain at operating temperature to prevent contamination from settling.
Drain and change oil – 300 hrs. Inspect frequently for leakage; replace before 500 hours if any cylinder exceeds 10 drops per minute leakage. Packing may not look badly worn but will often be shiny and hard and won’t seal well.
Replace piston packing – 500 hrs. Replace if cracks and heavy wear are present.
Inspect valves and springs – 500 hrs.
Inspect connecting link bearing inserts – 1000 hrs. Replace at first signs of fatigue or wear to prevent damage to crankshaft.
Inspect crankshaft tapered roller bearings – 2000 hrs.
LUBRICATION
Fill gear case with Mobilgear 630 or equivalent 80W90 oil to 6-1/2 qts for 1000-1800 pinion rpm range and 7-1/2 qts for 600­999 rpm range. Maintain oil level at mark on oil dipstick.
NOTE: Slow speed operation of reciprocating pumps can be
accomplished by adding additional oil to the crankcase. The higher level compensates for lack of splash lubrication at slow speeds. Some slight leakage may occur around crossheads and dipstick/vent area with additional oil.
After first 30 hours of operation drain oil from gear case (preferably drain at operating temperature), replace plug and refill crankcase with new oil. Change oil every 300 hours thereafter. Check oil level daily and add oil as needed.
ADDITIVES FOR CRANKCASE OIL
Use of molybdenum disulfide (MoS2) is optional as an additive to the petroleum-based gear case oil in back geared pumps and speed reducers manufactured by Myers. Do not use this additive with synthetic oil. It is so effective in reducing wear and friction that power train life may be doubled between overhauls.
SERVICE
Disengage clutch, disconnect electrical leads to motor or remove spark plug leads on engine.
REMOVING PACKING
Move assembly to front end of cylinder (top dead center). Remove valve assembly if required to provide clearance. Remove cap screw with an Allen wrench. Retract piston rod. Pull packing assembly out or push by rotating crankshaft by hand.
REMOVING PISTON
After removing the nuts, clamp and cylinder cap, move piston assembly to front end of cylinder (top dead center).
Remove valve assembly if required, to provide clearance. Remove cap screw with a 12mm (.472") across flats Allen wrench or use the removal tool. Use the removal tool to screw into the piston hub and then pull piston assembly out, using momentous, backward-forward motion with the sliding handle bar against the bolted-anchored end.
Also inspect cylinders for linear grooving by running your thumbnail circumferentially around bore of cylinder. If any grooving is detected also replace cylinders. New packing will rapidly cut or wear out in grooved cylinders.
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INSTALLATION AND OPERATION
INSTALLING CUP
Assemble cup onto hub. Lubricate the outside of the assembly with Molykote® or other grease for ease in insertion – do not use a graphite type grease.
When installing each cup assembly, rotate crankshaft until piston rod is at forward position. Place O-ring in position in piston hub using a small amount of grease to hold in place.
Apply Loctite® RC35 to capscrew prior to piston installation. Follow instructions on label and make certain threads in piston rod are clean and free of any grease or oil.
Assemble capscrew, etc., into piston assembly and push into cylinder. Torque the capscrew to 50 ft/lbs using a hexagonal socket attachment 12mm (.472") across flats.
INSTALLING PACKING
Assemble V-rings onto stud. Lubricate the outside of the assembly with Molykote® or other grease for ease in insertion – do not use a graphite type grease.
When installing each V-ring assembly, rotate crankshaft until piston rod is at forward position. Place copper gasket in position in stud using a small amount of Permatex® to hold in place.
Apply Loctite® RC35 to cap screw prior to piston installation. Follow instructions on label and make certain threads in piston rod are clean and free of any grease or oil.
Assemble cap screw, etc., into piston assembly and push into cylinder. Torque the cap screw to 50 ft/lbs using a hexagonal socket attachment 3/8" across flats.
REMOVING CYLINDERS
1. First remove packing as outlined previously.
2. Rotate crankshaft until piston rod is in rear position.
3. Insert puller through inside of cylinder and pilot over piston rod. Insert disc into slots on puller.
4. Slip plate over threads on puller. Screw nut on thread on puller and snug up. Tighten nut until liner breaks loose. Loosen nut and slip disc out of slots.
5. Remove puller and repeat to remove other cylinders.
CYLINDER INSTALLATION
Reasonable care and judgment should be used when installing the new cylinder.
Clean out any accumulation of loose rust or corrosion in cylinder body. Install a new O-ring in groove on tapered portion of cylinder, lubricate O-ring with oil or grease for ease in insertion.
Position cylinder carefully by hand to avoid cutting the O-ring. Drive into position firmly with a wooden block and mallet. Never use hydraulic press; excessive force can cause damage and make cylinders very difficult to remove la ter.
REMOVING SEATS: WING GUIDED VALVES
1. Remove valve caps, and cylinder caps, which provide access to suction and discharge valves.
2. Remove the stainless steel cage which serves as a valve guide and spring retainer.
3. Remove cage, spring and valve from the pump fluid end.
4. Suction valve seats are removed as above except two stud lengths are joined using coupling.
REPLACEMENT OF VALVES
1. Inspect tapered valve seat bore in fluid end for rust and wipe out excess with a rag.
2. Place a new lower seat in tapered hole.
3. Drive lower seat firmly into place and repeat for upper seat being sure to also inspect the tapered bore for rust.
IM PO RTA NT: Both the valve seat O.D. and tapered bore I.D. must be very clean.
4. Reassemble valve, spring and cage, and confirm that springs are in correct location.
5. When upper and lower valve seats are the same size, the heavier spring is installed on upper or discharge valve.
6. Be sure that cage is tightened onto valve seat.
7. Inspect seals on valve and cylinder caps. Replace if seals show signs of wear.
REPLACING PISTON ROD SEALS
The rod seal assembly contains two seals, two oil seals with lips facing the power end. The oil seal can be replaced without taking the fluid end off by removing the cylinder and piston to allow access for oil seal housing.
Unscrew two Allen screws and place into the other two tapped holes. Gradually screw them in to push oil seal housing off the retainer.
After assembling new seals in oil seal housing an assemble thimble should be used on the end of the crosshead rod for sliding oil seal housing back into the retainer.
Check gasket and replace if damaged.
An assembly thimble should be used on small end of the piston rod to expand sealing edge as it is pushed on. The thimble should be machined from high carbon steel and polished on the ex terior to reduce possibility of seal lip damage.
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INSTALLATION AND OPERATION
REMOVING CRANKSHAFT AND PINION SHAFT
1. Remove piston assemblies.
2. Remove connecting link caps and move the link­crosshead assembly as far forward as possible.
3. Secure separation of the crankshaft gear and gear case so that crankshaft will be held in place against pinion shaft.
4. Remove both crankshaft bearing caps. Hold crankshaft at ring gear and left-hand link journal to prevent dropping into bearing bores and remove from gear case by moving crankshaft to the right until left end can be swung free.
5. To remove pinion shaft, remove bearing cap bolts.
6. Tap the end of the pinion shaft extension to remove the bearing cup at the opposite end.
7. After removing the pinion shaft, the remaining bearing cup can be removed by gently tapping against the peripheral edge of the cup.
REPLACING PINION SHAFT AND SHIMMING BEARINGS
1. After installing the link-crosshead assemblies and moving them toward the fluid end as far as possible, press bearing cones onto both ends of the pinion shaft, being sure bearing seats completely against stop on shaft.
2. Place pinion and bearing cone assembly into the crankcase, positioning the pinion gear over the crankshaft gear. Carefully “hand” press bearing cups into both sides of the crankcase. Tap cups until bearing cups and cone come together and pinion is in the proper location in the crankcase.
3. Press shaft seal into bear/seal cap. Be sure the seal lip in both caps are installed with the lip inward towards the center of the crankcase.
4. Install right bearing/seal cap with two .003" thick shims and tighten cap screws.
5. Install left bearing/seal cap with one .015" thick and one .003" thick shim and tighten screws.
6. Rotate the pinion shaft back and forth and apply about 15 lbs. of axial force to properly seat the tapered roller bearings.
7. Measure the end play by using a dial indicator. Subtract recommended end play of .005" to .009" from the actual end play. This is the amount of shim that must be removed.
8. After excess shim thickness has been removed, replace left cap and retighten cap screws.
9. Measure end play again and repeat if necessary.
REPLACING CRANKSHAFT AND SHIMMING BEARINGS
1. Press the bearing cups into the caps. Place one cap into position on the right side with cap screws engaged about one turn. Install crankshaft, left end first, and push both bearing caps into place. Extreme care should be exercised to avoid damage to gear teeth, bearings and link journals.
2. For quiet operation and long life, the crankshaft and bearings must be installed with .003" to .005" in preload. To adjust, loosen the four cap screws on the pinion shaft bearing cap.
3. Place about .045" shim on the right crankshaft bearing cap, tighten the five cap screws. Install the left cap without shims, secure with two cap screws at 13 ft/lbs and rotate the crankshaft. Retorque the cap screws. Repeat three times to properly seat tapered roller bearings.
4. Measure (adjacent to the cap screws) the shim gap remaining between the bearing cap and the gear case. The required shim thickness for this cap is equal to the average gap measurement plus .022". Insert correct shim thickness under left bearing cap and tighten cap screws.
5. Install connecting links and caps and torque cap screws to 40 ft/lbs.
6. Check for adequate side clearance of links on crankshaft. Some shims must be moved from one end to the other until sideways movement of all links can be seen.
7. Check torque of cap screws on all bearing caps.
RECONDITIONED CRANKSHAFTS
When the crank throws are slightly damaged, they can sometimes be reconditioned for further use. This can be done by sandpapering and polishing until all ridges are completely removed. The final polishing operation should be with very fine emery cloth. If the surface is badly damaged, the crankshaft can often be salvaged by “metalizing” the crank throw and then regrinding and polishing to the original diameter.
SERVICING CONNECTING LINKS
The connecting rod link is furnished with replaceable split sleeve bearing inserts at the crank throw. Do not attempt to refit connecting links to the crankshaft bearings by filing or grinding the mating faces of the link cap where it contacts the link.
Always be sure that the proper side of the link is placed upward when attaching it to the crankshaft. The upper side contains an oil hole at the crosshead end of the link. This oil hole must be up to allow proper oil feeding to the crosshead pin bushing.
The wrist pin is press-fitted into crosshead and slip-fitted through the bronze bushing. Use arbor press to force in the wrist pin. Check to see if link is free to rotate after the wrist pin is pressed in. Verify that both sides of the wrist pin do not protrude beyond the crosshead.
The crosshead end of the connecting link is fitted with a bronze bushing. New replacement links are obtained, these bushings are reamed to the proper size for immediate installation. If only the bushing is replaced, it may be necessar y to ream the new bushing to the proper inside diameter after it is pressed into the link. When placing the bushing on the link be sure that the oil holes in the bushing and link are in line after the bushing is pressed into position.
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26850A004 (03/15/21)
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