O.S. Engines 18TZ S-T User Manual

MAX-18TZ SERIES
OWNER'S INSTRUCTION MANUAL
It is of vital importance, before attempting to operate your engine, to read the general
'SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS'
section on pages 2-5 of this booklet and to strictly adhere to the advice contained therein.
Also, please study the entire contents of this instruction manual, so as to familiarize yourself with the controls and other features of the engine.
Keep these instructions in a safe place so that
you may readily refer to them whenever
necessary.
It is suggested that any instructions supplied with the vehicle, radio control equipment, etc., are accessible for checking at the same time.
CONTENTS
SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS ABOUT YOUR
ENGINE CONSTRUCTION, NOTES WHEN
APPLYING AN ELECTRIC STARTER................. 6-7
18TZ
SERIES
INSTRUCTION........................................
TOOLS, ACCESSORIES, etc ............................................. 9-10
BASIC ENGINE PARTS, CARBURETOR
CONTROLS (11K), (11L)............................ 11-13
GLOWPLUG, INSTALLATION, NOTES
CONCERNING THE RECOIL STARTER
PRESSURIZED FUEL SYSTEM, STARTING THE ENGINE & RUNNING-IN
('Breaking-in')...................................................17-20
FINAL ADJUSTMENT,
CARBURETOR CLEANLINESS.......................... 21-23
O.S.
ENGINE.........
2-5
8
.................. 14-16
CARE AND MAINTENANCE,
CHECKING THE ENGINE................................. 24-25
TROUBLE SHOOTING.............................. 26-29
ENGINES EXPLODED VIEW &
PARTS LIST .............................................
CARBURETOR EXPLODED VIEW & PARTS
LIST.............
O.S. GENUINE
THREE VIEW DRAWING, MEMO
.......................................................
GUARANTEED TO KEEP YOUR
R/C CAR RUNNING WELL..............................49-52
LIMITED WARRANTY................................. 53-54
1
................................... 38-41
PARTS & ACCESSORIES.............. 42-43
30-37
44-48
SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS ABOUTYOUR O.S. ENGINE
Remember that your engine is not a "toy", but a highly efficient internal­combustion machine whose power is capable of harming you, or others, if it is misused.
As owner, you, alone, are responsible for the safe operation of your engine, so act with discretion and care at all times. If at some future date, your O.S. engine is acquired by another person, we would respectfully request that these instructions are also passed on to its new owner.
The advice which follows applies basically to ALL MODEL ENGINES and is grouped under two headings according to the degree of damage or danger which might arise through misuse or neglect.
WARNINGS
These cover events which might involve serious (in extreme circumstances, even fatal) injury.
NOTES
These cover the many other possibilities, generally less obvious sources of danger, but which, under certain circumstances, may also cause damage or injury.
2
WARNINGS
Model engine fuel is poi­sonous. Do not allow it to come into contact with the eyes or mouth.Always store
it in a clearly marked con­tainer and out of the reach of children.
Model engine fuel is also highly flammable. Keep it away from an open flame, excessive heat, sources of sparks, or anything else which might ignite it. Do not smoke or allow anyone else to smoke, near to it.
Never operate your engine in an en­closed space. Model engines, like automobile engines, exhaust deadly carbon-monoxide. Run your engine only in an open area.
Model engines generate
considerable heat. Do not touch any part of your engine until it has cooled. Contact with the muffler (silencer), cylinder head or exhaust header pipe, in particular, may result in a serious burn.
3
NOTES
This engine is intended for model cars. Do not attempt to use it for any other purpose.
Mount the engine in your model
securely, following the manufacturers'
recommendations, using appropriate
screws and locknuts. Pit an effective silencer (muffler):
Frequent close exposure to a noisy exhaust (especially in the case of the more powerful highspeed engines) may eventually impair your hearing and such noise is also likely to cause annoyance to others over a wide area.
The wearing of safety glasses is also strongly recommended.
Take care that the glowplug clip or battery leads do not come into contact with rotating parts. Also check that the linkage to the throttle arm is secure.
For their safety, keep all onlookers
(especially small children) well back (at least 20 feet or 6 meters) when
preparing your model for running.
Before starting the engine, always check the tightness of all the screws and nuts especially those of joint and movable parts such as throttle arm. Missing retightening the loose screws and nuts often causes the parts breakage that is capable of harming you.
4
NOTES
To stop the engine, fully retard the throttle stick and trim lever on the trans­mitter, or, in an emergency, cut off the fuel supply by pinching the fuel delivery line from the tank.
Do not attempt to disassemble the recoil starter of the 18TZ-TX. If you do so, the very strong spring inside will be suddenly ejected. This can be very dangerous.
Do not extend the starter cord more than 40cm (16"). Do not abruptly release the operating handle. Allow the cord to rewind smoothly while still holding the handle.
Pull the operating handle straight out when starting the engine, so that the cord does not rub against the vehicle body or
engine. This will help prevent the cord from being damaged by abrasion or engine heat.
Warning! Immediately after a glowplug­ignition engine has been run and is still warm, conditions sometimes exist whereby it is just possible for the engine to abruptly restart if it is rotated over compression WITHOUT the glowplug battery being reconnected.
5
ENGINE CONSTRUCTION
With this engine, the piston
will feel tight at the top of its stroke (TDC) when the engine is cold. This is normal. The cylinder bore has a slight taper. The piston and cylinder are designed to achieve a perfect running clearance when they reach operating temperature.
Piston
Cylinder Liner
Crankshaft Slight taper
When the engine is cold. When the engine is hot.
6
NOTES WHEN APPLYING AN ELECTRIC STARTER
Do not over-prime. This could cause a hydraulic lock and damage the engine on application of the electric starter.
If over-primed, remove glowplug, close needle-valve and apply starter to pump out surplus fuel. Cover the head with a rag to prevent pumped out fuel coming into your eyes.
NOTE As delivered, the engine has the
carburetor lightly fit into its intake. Secure it changing its angle according to the car chassis.
7
MAX-18TZ SERIES
This manual handles the following four versions. MAX- 18TZ-T with 11 L carburetor MAX-18TZ(S)-T with 11 L carburetor MAX-18TZ-TX with 11 L carburetor MAX-18TZ(P)-T with 11 K carburetor
About the engine
The 18TZ series engines have been developed for 1/10 class stadium trucks, off-road vehicles and sport cars. All the engine are supplied with T type P3 plug. 18TZ-TX is equipped with a newly developed O.S. No. N1 recoil starter.
INSTRUCTIONS
Standard accessories
Glow Plug P3 T-type head (Turbo head) 1 piece
(Hot Type)
Exhaust Seal Ring 1 piece
About Head Gasket
These engines are fitted with two head gaskets of 0.1mm thick and 0.2mm thick. It is suggested to adjust the total thickness according to atmospheric temperature, humidity and glowplug used.
At early stage of running-in, when a glowplug tends to burn out early or when high nitromethane content fuel is used, try to run the engine as it is or removing a 0.1mm gasket.
When low nitromethane content fuel is used, try to run the engine removing a 0.2mm gasket.
8
TOOLS, ACCESSORIES, etc.
The following items are necessary for operating the
engine.
Items necessary for starting
FUEL
Generally, it is suggested that the user selects a fuel that is commercially available for model two-stroke engines and contains 10-30% nitromethane. As a starting point, we recommend a fuel containing 20% nitromethane, changing to a fuel containing more nitro if necessary. When the brand of fuel is changed, or the nitro content increased, it is advisable to repeat the running-in procedure referred to in the RUNNING-IN paragraphs. Please note that with high-nitro fuels, although power may be increased for competition purposes, glowplug elements do not last as long and engine life will be shortened.
REMINDER!
Model engine fuel is poisonous. not allow it to come into contact with the eyes or mouth. Always store it in a clearly marked container and out of the reach of children.
Model engine fuel is also highly flammable. Keep it away from open flame, excessive heat, sources of sparks, or anything else which might ignite it. Do not smoke or allow anyone else to smoke, near to it.
FUEL FILTER
To installed in the fuel line between fuel tank and carburetor to prevent dust coming into the carburetor.
GLOWPLUG IGNITER
Commercialy available handy glowplug heater in which the glowplug battery and battery leads are integrated.
9
Do
STARTER BOX
For
starting the engine.
It is not necessary for
the recoil starter version.
TOOLS
HEX WRENCH
Necessary for engine installation.
1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm
7.2V BATTERIES FOR STARTER BOX
Batteries for starter box. Select according to the starter box used. Be sure to full charge before using.
FUEL PUMP
For filling the fuel tank, a simple, polyethylene "squeeze" bottle, with a suitable spout, is required,
SILICONE FUEL LINE
Heatproof silicone tubing of approx. 5mm o.d. and 2mm i.d. is required for the connection between the fuel tank and engine.
SCREWDRIVER
Necessary for carburetor adjustments. No.1, No.2, etc
LONG SOCKET WRENCH WITH PLUG GRIP
Recommended for easy removal and
replacement of the angled and recessed glowplug, the O.S.Long Socket Wrench incorporates a special grip.
10
BASIC ENGINE PARTS
Heatsink Head
Heatsink Head
Starter Handle
Carburetor
Type 11K
Crankshaft
Mounting Lugs
Crankcase
MAX-18TZ(P)-T
Exhaust
Cover Plate
Carburetor
Type 11L
Crankshaft
11
Drive Hub
Mounting Lugs
Crankcase
Exhaust
Recoil Starter Assembly No.N1
Rear Adaptor
MAX-18TZ-TX
CARBURETOR CONTROLS (11K)
Needle Valve
Mixture Control Valve
Throttle Stop Screw
Thermo Insulator
Metering Needle
Four adjustable controls are provided on
this carburetor.
The Needle-Valve:
For adjusting the mixture strength when the throttle is fully open.
The Mixture Control Valve:
For changing the mixture strength at mid speed and acceleration. (Do not rotate the screw more than one turn.)
The Metering Needle:
For adjusting the mixture strength at part­throttle and idling speeds, to obtain steady idling and smooth acceleration to mid speeds.
The Throttle Stop Screw:
For setting the minimum idle speed:
NOTE: Readjustment may be necessary,
occasionally to allow for changes in fuel formula, gear ratio or clutch engagement point.
12
CARBURETOR CONTROLS (11L)
Needle Valve
Throttle Stop Screw
Thermo Insulator
Mixture Control Valve
Three adjustable controls are provided on this carburetor.
The Needle-Valve:
For adjusting the mixture strength when the throttle is fully open.
The Mixture Control Screw:
For adjusting the mixture strength at part­throttle and idling speeds, to obtain steady idling and smooth acceleration to mid speeds.
The Throttle Stop Screw:
For setting the minimum idling speed:
NOTE: Readjustment may be necessary, occasionally to allow for changes in fuel formula, gear ratio or clutch engagement point.
13
GLOWPLUG
Since the compatibility of glowplug and fuel may have a marked effect on performance and reliability, it may be worthwhile to choose the R/C type plug found most suitable after tests. Recommended O.S. plugs are P3 and P6. Carefully install plug finger-tight, before final
tightening with the correct size plug wrench.
The role of the glowplug
With a glowplug engine, ignition is initiated by the application of a 1.5-volt power source. When the battery is disconnected, the heat retained within the combustion chamber remains sufficient to keep the plug filament glowing, thereby continuing to keep the engine running. Ignition timing is 'automatic' : under reduced load, allowing higher rpm, the plug becomes hotter and, appropriately, fires the fuel/air charge earlier; conversely, at reduced rpm, the plug become
cooler and ignition is retarded.
Glowplug life
Particularly in the case of very high performance engines, glowplugs must be regarded as expendable items. However, plug life can be extended and engine performance maintained by careful use, i.e.:
Install a plug suitable for the engine. Use fuel containing a moderate percentage of
nitromethane unless more is essential for racing events.
Do not run the engine too lean and do not leave the battery connected while adjusting the needle.
When to replace the glowplug
Apart from when actually burned out, a plug may need to be replaced because it no longer delivers its
best performance, such as when:
Filament surface has roughened and turned white. Filament coil has become distorted. Foreign matter has adhered to filament or plug body has corroded. Engine tends to cut out when idling. Starting qualities deteriorate.
14
INSTALLATION OF THE CARBURETOR
As delivered, the engine has its carburetor lightly fit into the intake boss. Secure it as
follows.
1. Loosen the retainer screw, rotate the carburetor to its correct position and make sure that it is pressed well down into the intake boss, compressing the rubber gasket, before retightening screw.
2. Rotate the retainer screw gently until it stops, then tighten a further 60-90°. Do not overtighten the screw as this will damage the carburetor body.
Rotate the retainer nut
gently until it stops.
Tighten a further 60-90"
ENGINE INSTALLATION
Make sure that the vehicle's engine mounting surfaces are level and in the same plane. Poor installation may cause distortion of the crankcase, bearings, etc., resulting in erratic running and loss of performance. The recommended screws for securing the engine are 3mm or 4-40 steel Allen hexagon socket type. If existing holes in the engine mount do not align perfectly with engine mounting lugs, enlarge them slightly with a needle-file so that screws are in alignment with the mounting holes.
Do not allow bottom of crankcase to touch chassis.
Chassis
Chamfer inside edges of bearers.
15
In case of the18TZ-TX
Avoid forcing the screws. Secure with locknuts. If the bottom of the recoil starter housing would otherwise touch the car chassis, install the en­gine mount spacers (optional extra) between the engine's mounting lugs and the engine mount. With some vehicles, it may be neces­sary to make minor trimming modifications to chassis or body when installing the engine.
NOTE: When spacers are supplied joined in pairs (see sketch) separate them as shown. Either face may be placed downwards.
Mount Spacer
(Optional Extra)
Separate
Engine Mount
NOTES CONCERNING THE RECOIL STARTER
REMINDER! ( 18TZ-TX ONLY)
Do not attempt to disassemble the recoil starter.
If you do so, the very strong spring inside will be suddenly ejected. This can be very dangerous.
Do not extend the starter cord more than 40cm
(16"). Do not abruptly release the operating handle. Allow the cord to rewind smoothly while still holding the handle.
Pull the operating handle straight out when
starting the engine, so that the cord does not rub against the vehicle body or engine.
This will help prevent the cord from being
damaged by abrasion or engine heat.
Try to avoid spilling fuel over the starter unit and
its cord. Some fuels have a detrimental effect on
these parts.
The starter prevents the engine from being ro-
tated in the wrong direction.The unit will be damaged if you attempt to force the flywheel in the opposite direction (i.e. clockwise when viewed from the crankshaft end).
16
PRESSURIZED FUEL SYSTEM
The somewhat violent changes of vehicle attitude that occur in off-road running, combined with the fact that, in buggy type cars, the fuel tank is often located some distance from the carburetor, means that fuel 'head' at the carburettor can vary and upset running.Therefore,it is recommended that a muffler pressurized fuel feed system be used.
Never run your vehicle without installing the air cleaner. Dust and dirt that may otherwise be drawn into the engine will rapidly shorten its life.
Silicone tubing
Fuel Tank
Silencer
Connect suitable length of Silicone tubing between fuel tank and silencer.
Before starting the engine, always check the tightness of all the screws and nuts especially those of joint and
movable parts such as throttle arm. Missing retightening the loose screws and nuts often causes the parts breakage that is capable of harming you.
STARTING THE ENGINE & RUNNING-IN ('Breaking-in)
The following procedure is suitable for these engines when the O.S. T-1040 tuned silencer and a fuel containing up to 30% nitrome­thane are used.
Fill the tank completely with fuel.
Temporarily remove the glowplug to check that it glows bright red when energized.
17
Element glows when energized,
Replace the plug when the element does not glow or is burnt out.
Pliers
In case of the 11 K carburetor
Set the throttle-stop screw so that the minimum throttle opening (idle setting) is approximately
0.3-0.5mm.
Glow Plug Igniter
Turn the needle-valve clockwise slowly until it stops. This is the fully closed position.
Do not force to turn further.
Open the Needle-Valve 2 turns from the fully closed position.
Needle Valve
Close
Open
In case of the 11 L carburetor
Set the throttle-stop screw so that the minimum
throttle opening (idle setting) is approximately
1.0mm.
approx 1mm
Throttle Stop
Note: Throttle opening at idle should be checked before fitting an air cleaner.
18
Screw
Switch
on the transmitter
and
make
sure
each linkage moves correctly.
Turn the engine with starter box to draw the fuel into the engine.
that
Deliver fuel into the carburetor.
Fuel
Fuel tank side
Now connect glowplug battery lead to heat the plug filament and start the engine,
When the engine starts, first allow it to operate in short runs at the very rich starting settings, with the glowplug battery still connected and the driving wheels clear of the ground. The rich mixture will, under these conditions, provide adequate
lubrication and cooling, indicated by profuse
smoke from the exhaust.
Attention:
It is vitally important to set
the throttle at the correct
position before starting the engine. If the engine is allowed to run with the throttle too far open under "no load" conditions (i.e. with the driving wheels not in contact with the ground) it will rapidly over-heat and may be seriously damaged.
Next, disconnect the glowplug battery and try running the car on the track. If the engine stalls, open the throttle fractionally, but try to keep the engine running as rich as possible: if it stops because of being excessively over­rich, close the Needle-Valve 30° and try again.
19
Run the car on the track until one tank of fuel has been consumed, then close the Needle­Valve 30° and run the car for another full tank of fuel. Repeat this procedure until 5 more tanks of fuel have been consumed, during which time the throttle may be opened for brief bursts of increased power. If the engine stops at medium speeds, close the Mixture Screw 45-90°.
The position of the needle-valve
Needle
Note: If the engine should need to be disassem­bled (e.g. for cleaning or minor parts re­placement), it is advisable to return the nee­dle-valve to the original rich, starting set­ting and check whether further running-in
when starting the engine.
Close the needle-valve approx. 30° after running the vehicle for one full tank of fuel. Repeat this procedure several times.
time is required before the car is raced again. In the event of any major working parts (e.g. piston/cylinder liner assembly) being replaced or the fuel being changed,
especially to high nitro fuel, the complete
running-in should be repeated.
To stop the engine, close the throttle to
idling speed, then shut it off completely with the trim lever on the transmitter. To cut off the fuel supply, pinch the fuel delivery tube to the carburetor.
Warning!
Do not touch rotating parts, engine and silen­cer when stopping the engine as they become very hot, and contact with them may result in a serious burn.
20
Fuel
FINAL ADJUSTMENT
Run the vehicle (with throttle fully open) over the longest available straight course, in order to observe the model's speed. Next return the car to the starting point, close the Needle­Valve 30° and repeat the run, taking note of the improvement in performance. Continue with further runs, gradually reducing the Needle-Valve setting and aiming to achieve the highest straight-line speed. Remember, however, that, if the Needle-Valve is shut down too far, the engine will overheat and, accompanied by visibly diminished exhaust smoke, the model will lose speed. At this point, throttle down immediately, stop the vehicle and reopen the Needle-Valve 30°.
Having established the optimum Needle-
Valve setting, check the Mixture Control Valve setting as follows.
With the engine running, close the throttle
and allow it to idle for about five seconds, then reopen the throttle fully. If, at this point, the engine puffs out an excessive amount
smoke and the vehicle does not accelerate smoothly and rapidly, it is probable that idling mixture is too rich,
In this case, turn the Mixture
case of the 11 L and the Metering Needle
case of the 11 K clockwise 45 degrees. If,
the other hand, the engine tends to speed
momentarily and then cut out abruptly when
the throttle is opened,the idling mixture is too
lean. Correct this by turning the Mixture
Control Valve in case of the 11L and the
Metering Needle in case of the 11K counter-
clockwise 45 degrees.
21
Control Valve in
of
the
in on, up
Carry out adjustments patiently, under actual running conditions, until the engine responds quickly and positively to the throttle control.
Warning! Mixture adjustments (whether via the Mixture Control Valve, or the Needle-Valve) cannot be made accurately under 'no-load' conditions, which, in any case, are not advised, since such operation carries the risk of seriously damaging the engine through over-revving and overheating.
With the optimum mixture control position, light smoke is visible during high speed running,and the engine revolutions increase smoothly during acceleration. Remember that, if the engine is operated with the fuel/air mixture slightly too lean, it will overheat and run unevenly. As with all engines, it is advisable to set both needle-valve and mixture control screw very slightly on the rich side of the best rpm setting, as a safety measure.
If the engine runs too fast with the throttle closed, the throttle stop screw should be turned counter-clockwise to allow the throttle opening to be reduced.
Finally, beyond the nominal break-in period, a slight readjustment toward a leaner needle setting may be required to maintain performance.
CARBURETOR CLEANLINESS
The correct functioning of the carburetor depends on its small fuel orifices remaining clear.
REALIGNMENT OF METERING NEEDLE AND MIXTURE CONTROL VALVE
In the course of making carburetor adjust­ments, it is just possible that the Metering Nee­dle and the Mixture Control Valve may be inad­vertently screwed in or out too far and thereby moved beyond its effective adjustment range.
22
The basic positions can be found by rotating the Metering Needle until its slotted head is flush with the ball link body.
In case of the 11K carburetor
Carburetor Body
Carburetor Body
Ball Link
Rotate the Metering
Needle until its slotted head is flush with the ball link body. This is the standard position.
Metering Needle
Slide Valve
First rotate the Mixture Control Valve until its slotted head is flush with the carburetor body. Then screw the valve in exactly 0.5 turn. This is the standard position.
Mixture Control Valve
In case of the 11 L carburetor
Throttle Lever
Carburetor Body
23
Rotate the Mixture Control Valve until its slotted head is flush with the ball link body. This is the standard position.
Mixture Control Valve
CARE AND MAINTENANCE
1.The minute particles of foreign matter, that are present in any fuel may, by accumulating and partially obstructing fuel flow, cause engine performance to become erratic and unreliable. O.S. 'Super-Filters' (large and small) are available, as optional extras, to deal with this problem. One of these filters installed to the pickup tube inside your refueling container, will prevent the entry of foreign material into the fuel tank. It is also recommended that a good in-line filter be installed between the tank and carburetor.
2. Do not forget to clean the filters regularly to remove dirt and lint that accumulate on the filter screens. Also, clean the carburetor itself occasionally.
3. At the end of each operating session, drain out any fuel that may remain in the fuel tank. Afterwards,energize the glow-plug and try to restart the engine, to burn off any fuel that may remain
inside the engine. Repeat this procedure until the engine fails to fire. Do this while the engine is still
warm.
4. Then, inject some after-run oil into the engine, and rotate the engine with an electric starter for 4 to 5 seconds to distribute the oil to all the working parts.
Note:
Do not inject after-run oil into the carburetor as this may cause the 0-rings inside the carburetor to deteriorate. These procedures will reduce the risks of starting difficulties or corrosion after a period of storage.
5. Finally, when cleaning the exterior of the engine, use methanol or kerosene. Do not use gasoline or any solvent that might damage the silicone fuel tubing.
Caution:
The rear crankshaft bearing of this engine uses a
special plastic retainer. If the front housing needs
to be heated to remove or replace the bearing, do
not allow the bearing to exceed 120°C (248°F), otherwise it may be damaged and rendered unserviceable.
24
Installing Dust Caps
When storing the engine, install the cap on the exhaust port, carburetor, etc. to prevent dust from entering the engine.
Dirt and dust may lodge in
marked places.
CHECKING THE ENGINE
Engine will not develop normal performance
after long time running due to wearing of parts.
It is suggested to replace necessary parts when
the following symptoms are detected.
Engine sound changes and easily overheats.
Power has dropped extremely.
Idling is unstable and/or engine tends to stop
at idling.
In most cases, ball bearings, cylinder & piston assembly, connecting rod and/or crankcase have become worn out or abnormal. Check the parts carefully and replace them if necessary.
25
TROUBLE SHOOTING
Engine fails to fire.
Fuel tank is empty. Fuel not reaching the engine.
Glowplug element is burnt out. Glowplug battery discharged
Clogged fuel filter Air cleaner and silencer inside is dirty.
Over priming Fuel tubing is disconnected.
Fuel tubing is kinked, split or has a hole.
Incorrect servo linkage
Reverse rotating direction of starter box.
Recoil starter slips.
Fill the tank with fuel and repeat Priming procedure.
Replace glowplug. Recharge or replace the battery.
Clean or replace fuel filter.
Replace cleaner element and clean inside silencer.
Remove glowplug and pump
excess
fuel.
Connect fuel tubing securely. Check the tubing carefully and replace if necessary.
Re-linkage after setting servo at neutral. Mare sure it rotates counter clockwise seen
from crankshaft side.
Inject cleaner spray
into starter cord crevis
on the body.
26
Engine fires intermittently but does not run.
Insufficient fuel in the tank.
Deteriorated glowplug
Clogged fuel filter
Air cleaner and silencer inside is dirty. Engine overheated
Incorrect clutch release
Too immediately disconnecting plug battery.
Fuel in the tank extremely bubbled
Fill the tank with fuel.
Replace glowplug.
Clean or replace fuel filter.
Replace cleaner element and clean inside silencer.
Wait until engine is cooled.
Adjust the tension of clutch spring.
Do not disconnect plug battery and wait until
r.p.m, become stable. Fit 0 rings to the tank screws to
prevent bubbles.
27
Unstable idle
Unsuitable glowplug
Unsuitable fuel Extremely light flywheel
Silencer is disconnected or has play
Not reaching expected peak r.p.m.
Insufficient warming up or running-in.
Silencer or manifold is not securely connected or disconnected.
Fuel tubing from tank to is split or broken.
Use suggested glowplug in the instructions.
Do not use extremely high nitro or low oil fuel.
Add suitable load.
Install silencer securely.
Set the needle only after warming up. Complete running-in.
Replace seal ring.
Check the connections Replace the tubing.
28
and secure them.
Poor response
Deteriorated glowplug Incorrect carburetor settings Incorrect setting of transmitter Exponential function.
Incorrect linkage
Poor r.p.m, drop
Too much throttle opening at idle.
Incorrect carburetor fitting
Too
much closing of metering needle
Replace glowplug.
Readjust low r.p.m, range with metering needle and mixture control valve.
Check the transmitter setting.
Make sure that throttle servo does not interfere
servo linkage.
Close metering needle to adequate position
to lower idle r.p.m.
Fit carburetor securely. Open the metering needle a little.
29
15
14
13
C.M2.6X7
12
MAX-18TZ(P)-T ENGINE EXPLODED VIEW
3
6
11
F...FIat Head Screw N...Round Head Screw S...Set Screw
C...Cap Screw M...0val Fillister-Head Screw
* Type of screw
10
4
1
C.M3X16
2
5
7
8
9
MAX-18TZ(P)-T ENGINE PARTS LIST
The specifications are subject to alteration for improvement without notice.
17
MAX-18TZ-T ENGINE EXPLODED VIEW
15
C.M2.6X7
16
14
3
6
13
F...FIat Head Screw N...Round Head Screw S...Set Screw
C...Cap Screw M...0val Fillister-Head Screw
Type of screw
12
4
1
C.M3X16
2
5
7
8
11
10
9
Gasket Set
Screw Set
Glow Plug P3
Inner Head
Piston Pin
Cylinder & Piston Assembly
21914110
21913010
21816000
234
Piston Pin Retainer (2pcs.)
21817000
5
Outer Head
21914010
1
MAX-18TZ-T ENGINE PARTS LIST
Connecting Rod
Carburetor Complete (Type 11L)
Carburetor Retainer Assembly
21915000
21884010
25381701
678
Propeller Nut
Drive Hub
Crankshaft Ball Bearing (Front)
23731000
20810007
21458000
9
111213
10
Crankshaft
Crankcase
Crankshaft Ball Bearing (Rear)
21912020
21931000
21911010
151617
14
21824000
Cover Plate
71641300
23763000
21917000
Exhaust Seal Ring
21427200
The specifications are subject to alteration for improvement without notice.
16
MAX-18TZ(S)-T ENGINE EXPLODED VIEW
C.M2.6x7
14
15
13
3
6
4
1
C.M3X16
2
5
7
12
11
8
F...FIat Head Screw N...Round Head Screw S...Set Screw
C...Cap Screw M...0val Fillister-Head Screw
* Type of screw
10
9
Piston Pin
Piston Pin Retainer (2pcs.)
Inner Head
Cylinder & Piston Assembly
Outer Head
21817000
21816000
21913010
21914110
21914010
1
4
5
3
2
MAX-18TZ(S)-T ENGINE PARTS LIST
Propeller Nut
Carburetor Complete (Type 11L)
Carburetor Retainer Assembly
Connecting Rod
20810007
25381701
21884010
21915000
9
678
Crankshaft Ball Bearing (Front)
23731000 10
Crankshaft Ball Bearing (Rear)
Crankshaft
Crankcase
21912030
21931000
21911010
13
12
11
Gasket Set
21824000 14
Screw Set
Glow Plug P3
Cover Plate
71641300
23763000
21917000
16
15
Exhaust Seal Ring
21427200
The specifications are subject to alteration for improvement without notice.
19
MAX-18TZ-TX ENGINE EXPLODED VIEW
15
M.+M2.6X7
18-1
18
18-2
14
3
6
4
1
C.M3X16
2
5
7
M.+M2.6X7
13
8
17
C...Cap Screw M...0val Fillister-Head Screw
F...FIat Head Screw N...Round Head Screw S...Set Screw
* Type of screw
16
12
11
10
9
No.N1 Recoil Starter Body
No.N1 One-way Clutch
Rear Adaptor
Inner Head
Piston Pin
Piston Pin Retainer (2pcs.)
Cylinder & Piston Assembly
21913010
21816000
21817000
Connecting Rod
21915000
Outer Head
21914110
21914010
1
23456
MAX-18TZ-TX ENGINE PARTS LIST
Propeller Nut
Carburetor Retainer Assembly
Carburetor Complete (Type 11 L)
25381701
20810007
21884010
8
9
7
Drive Hub
Crankshaft Ball Bearing (Front)
Crankcase
23731000
21458000
21911010
101112
Crankshaft Ball Bearing (Rear)
Crankshaft
21931000
21912040
13
141516
Gasket Set
Starting Shaft
21824000
21922000
21901800
17
No.N1 Recoil Starter Assembly
73008100
73008000 18
18-1
Screw Set
Glow Plug P3
71641300
73008200
21923000 19
18-2
Exhaust Seal Ring
21427200
The specifications are subject to alteration for improvement without notice.
UK CARBURETOR EXPLODED VIEW
2-1
2
2-2
1-1
1-2
1
9
* Type of screw
C...Cap Screw M...0val Fillister-Head Screw F... Flat Head Screw N...Round Head Screw S...Set Screw
3
3-1
4
5
6
6-1
7
10
S.M3x3
8
38
UK CARBURETOR PARTS LIST
1
21982600
1-1
27881820 22781800
1-2
21285901
2
2-1
27881820
2-2
21881950
21982620
3
22781800
3-1
21982100
4 5
21982200 21982540
6
22781800
6-1
7
21982520
8
23818430
9
21982900
10
22615000
The specifications are subject to alteration for improvement without notice.
Mixture Control Valve Assembly
"0" Rinq(L) (2pcs.) "0" Rinq(S) (2pcs.)
Needle Valve Assembly
"0" Ring (2pcs.)
No.14 Universal Nipple Assembly
Throttle Stop Screw
"0" Ring(S) (2pcs.) Carburetor Body (w/Thermo Insulator) Slide Valve Metering Needle Assembly
"0" Rinq(S) (2pcs.) Dust Cover Ball Link No.5
Thermo Insulator
Carburetor Rubber Gasket
39
11L CARBURETOR EXPLODED VIEW
1-1
1
1-2
3
2
10
* Type of screw
C...Cap Screw M...0val Fillister-Head Screw F...FIat Head Screw N...Round Head Screw S...Set Screw
11
4
5
6
7
9
9-1
8
40
11L CARBURETOR PARTS LIST
1
21285901
1-1
27881820
1-2
21881950
2
22681310
3
21884110
4
22481506
5
21884200
6
21283210
7
22681419
8
21481420
9
21982630
9-1
27881820 21165010
10 11
22615000
The specifications are subject to alteration for improvement without notice.
Needle Valve Assembly
"0" Ring (2pcs.) No.14 Universal Nipple Assembly
Throttle Stop Screw
Carburetor Body (w/Thermo Insulator)
Rotor Spring
Carburetor Rotor
Dust Cover Throttle Lever Throttle Lever Fixing Nut
Mixture Control Screw
"0" Ring (2pcs.) Thermo Insulator Carburetor Rubber Gasket
41
O.S. GENUINE PARTS & ACCESSORIES
O.S. Glow Plug
P6
(71641600)
P7
(71641700)
P8
(71641800)
T-1040 L52
(72103051)
T-1040 L70
(72103071)
T-1040R52
(72103056)
T-1040R70
(72103076)
Exhaust Header Pipes
M1000 (72103170)
Header Pipe Spring
(72106172)
M1010(72103180)
Header Pipe Spring
(72106172)
42
RACING ENGINE PARTS
ForSuper10 Class (72106160)
Header Pipe Spring (72106172)
For Pure-10 Class Short (72106170)
Header Pipe Spring (72106172)
For
Pure10
Class
Header Pipe Spring (72106172)
Super Joint Tube 15
(72103310)
Exhaust Seal Ring (2pcs.) (21427200)
Long
(72106180)
O.S. GENUINE PARTS & ACCESSORIES
Super Air Cleaner 202
(72412000)
202 Cleaner Body
(72412100)
• 202 Filter Element (4pcs.)
(72412200)
SUPER AIR CLEANER 203
(72413000)
203 Filter Element (4pcs.)
(72413200)
RACING ENGINE PARTS
Engine Mount Spacer
(72404000)
Cap Screw Set
M2.6x7 (10pcs.)
(79871020)
Dust Cap Set
3mm (5pcs.) (73300305)
8mm (3pcs.) (73300812)
16mm (3pcs.) (73301612) 18mm (3pcs.) (73301812)
Long Socket Wrench
With Plug Grip
(71521000)
The specifications are subject to alteration for improvement without notice.
43
18TZ(P)-T THREE VIEW DRAWING
SPECIFICATIONS
Displacement Bore Stroke Practical R.P.M. Power output
Weight
3.0cc(0.183cu.in.)
16.0mm (0.629 in.)
15.0mm (0.590 in.) 3,000-34,000 r.p.m.
1.8 ps/29,000 r.p.m.
225.8g (7.96oz.)
Dimensions (mm)
44
18TZ-T THREE VIEW DRAWING
Displacement Bore Stroke Practical R.P.M. Power output
Weight
3.0 cc (0.183cu.in.)
16.0mm (0.629 in.)
15.0mm (0.590 in.) 3,000-34,000 r.p.m.
1.8 ps / 29,000 r.p.m.
224.8g (7.930Z.)
Dimensions (mm)
45
18TZ(S)-T THREE VIEW DRAWING
Displacement Bore Stroke Practical R.P.M. Power output Weight
3.0 cc (0.183 cu.in.)
16.0mm (0.629 in.)
15.0mm (0.590 in.) 3,000-34,000 r.p.m.
1.8 ps/29,000 r.p.m.
222.4g (7.84oz.)
Dimensions (mm)
46
18TZ-TX THREE VIEW DRAWING
SPECIFICATIONS
Displacement Bore Stroke Practical R.P.M. Power output
Weight
3.0cc (0.183cu.in.)
16.0mm (0.629 in.)
15.0mm (0.590 in.) 3,000-34,000 r.p.m.
1.8 ps/29,000 r.p.m.
263.7g (9.30oz.)
Dimensions (mm)
47
MEMO
48
GUARANTEED TO
KEEP YOUR R/C CAR
RUNNING WELL
KEEP IT CLEAN
Dirt is the most common way to ruin your engine. If it gets inside, the dirt will act just like sandpaper and ruin the close fit that the parts need for your engine to operate correctly.
• Use an air filter to keep as much dirt outside as possible. A two or three stage filter with an oiled foam element is the best way to go.
• Dirt on the outside of the engine acts just like a blanket of insulation and prevents proper cooling. Keep your engine clean.
•Use a fuel filter. Dirt getting into the fuel will clog the fuel passages in the carburetor and also get those abrasive particles inside. Keep your engine clean.
•Dirt will damage your engine very quickly and repairs for
are
not covered by the engine manufacturer's warranty.
dirt
KEEP IT RICH
The high-speed needle valve is used to adjust the mixture of fuel and air needed to get the optimum performance from your engine. If it's adjusted too lean, your engine will get less fuel than it should.
•You must remember that the engine gets its lubrication from the oil that's in the fuel. If you run it too lean, the engine will not get enough oil to keep the internal parts lubricated, even thought it sounds better.
•Parts will start to run hot and then seize. The result Is a typical problem as a broken connecting rod that seized to the crankshaft, and then broke as the crankshaft tried to continue to turn.
• Keep the engine running on the rich side of the highest RPM setting to ensure proper lubrication.
KEEP IT ON THE GROUND
You should run your engine at high speeds only when you are driving the car.
• Do not put the car on the box or stand with the wheels off the ground and then run the engine. You'll quickly overspeed
your engine and ruin it. Generally, the connecting rod will break from the over-rewing.
• Do not remove the engine from the car and try to run it with just the flyweel. That does the same as described above. The engine must be run with the load of the car when driving.
49
KEEP IT COOL
If you run your engine good and hot, you'll have a nice chunk of useless aluminum in a short time.
•Running the engine hot causes the oil in the fuel to break down and quit working. The repairs won't be cheap.
Your engine is equipped with a special heat-sink cylinder head to make sure it gets enough cooling..
•Keep the head clean so that the dirt doesn't act like an insulating blanket.
•Make sure that any airflow passes through the fins of the cylinder and head.
• Make as many cutouts in the car's body as necessary, and don't skimp on the size.
KEEP IT LUBED
Make sure you're using a fuel from a reputable, name-brand manufacturer.
•Your fuel should have at least the amount of oil
recommended by the engine manufacturer, If you can't find a particular recommendation on oil content, then use a fuel with 20%-22% oil content.
•If you're trying to run a fuel with more than 20% Nitromethane, you should add some oil to your fuel, such as KlotzTechniplate™or Baker "AA" Castor Oil™.
KEEP IT PROPERLY LUBED DURING STORAGE
If you let your engine sit with nothing done to it after you last ran it, the internal parts will start to corrode... especially the steel crankshaft and ball bearings. They'll rust. If the fuel has castor oil in it, it will begin to dry out and become gummy.
• Rust inside an engine will erode tight clearances and score polished surfaces.
• Gummy fuel residue blocks oil holes in connecting rods and crankshafts.
50
GUARANTEED TO
KEEP YOUR R/C CAR
RUNNING WELL
(CONTINUED)
Here's how to prevent rust;
• At the end of the day's running, pull the fuel line from the engine.
• Drain the tank, and then start the engine.
• Let it run until it's absolutely dry of fuel.
•Add several drops of an after-run oil. There are several after-run oils on the hobby market. You can also make your own from a 50­50 mixture of "Marvel Mystery Oil"™ and automatic transmission fluid.
•After adding the after-run oil, turn the engine over several times
to make sure it's worked into all of the engine's internals. Add more if you are not sure that you put in enough.
(Continued)
KEEP GOOD POWER
Nitro, or Nitromethane, is the main power ingredient in model fuels. Raising the nitro content will make the fuel "hotter"— that is, allow
the engine to develop more power. More is better, right? Not really.
•Unless your engine is designed and ported for high-nitro fuels, you won't see much gain in performance above 20%­25%.
•While some people are running nitro levels as high as 50%, they have modified their engines to handle it. They've also carefully blended their fuel to make sure they have enough oil.
•The best performance enhancer is a good driver. A driver who can keep the car on the track will usually beat a less experienced driver with a hotter set up.
KEEP IT SMOOTH
When you tighten the pilot shaft onto your flywheel, it can be hard to keep the engine from turning over. It may be tempting to stick something into the exhaust port to keep the piston from moving, but do not do this! You'll also put a nice "ding" in the piston and in the cylinder liner. You've just ruined your nice, new engine. A new ABC piston/cylinder assembly (the most commonly-used kind in R/C car engines) will put a nice hole in your pocketbook.
51
(CONTINUED)
This kind of damage is not covered under the warrenty.
• If the flywheel can't be tightened onto the engine without it trying to turn over, grip the drive washer in a pair of large adjustable pliers, like Channel Locks™, with the drive washer protected under several layers cloth. You could also try a strap wrench.
•If you feel more adventurous, you can remove the rear cover of the engine and insert a piece of wooden dowel stock or plastic rod to keep the crankshaft from turning. Don't put anything into the engine that will hit the piston.
KEEP AWAY FROM SILICONE SEAL AND
THREAD STICKERS
Silicone sealers usually have a smell like vinegar when they're curing. Vinegar is mostly acetic acid and that causes corrosion.
•The inside of an engine has two kinds of metal in it... aluminum for most of the parts and steel for the crankshaft and bearings.
•Two different kinds of metal will start to corrode if they have
some kind of electrolyte between them and a tiny bit of acid will do the job.
• Aluminum corrosion can cause the entire inside of the engine to turn a dark grey or nearly black color. Corroded steel is rust. See above about rust.
KEEP IT DRY
While it sounds obvious, keeping water out of your engine isnt as easy as it sounds. Sure, you can dry it out when you've run through some mud or puddles, but how about condensation?
•Changes in temperature can cause moisture in the air to
condense inside the engine. This can happen in the winter and summer, so keep your model inside the house, not in the garage.
•Keeping it inside the house also gives you good reason to
keep it clean just try to explain oil spots on the carpet when your engine is dripping oil from a just-finished running session.
52
Copylight 1999--3032045
LIMITED WARRANTY
Your engine is guaranteed to be free of defects in parts and workmanship for a period of 2 years
from the date of purchase when returned for service accompanied by Your proof of purchase. Crash damage and problems caused by neglect or abuse will not be covered under warranty. Damagecaused by customer disassembly, tampering, use of substandard fuel, use of incorrect accessories (glow plug, prop, etc.) ,or any use of the engine for which it is not specifically intended
will automatically void the warranty of the engine. Should your engine require warranty or non-warranty service please return it via UPS
or
insured Parcel Post to our national servicing facility:
Hobby Services P.O.Box4021
1610 Interstate Dr. Champaign IL 61821 Ph. 217-398-0007
Along with Your engine and proof of purchase date please enclose a complete written explanation
detailing the problems. State your name and address clearly. For repairs not covered under warranty, you must specify whether you wish the charges be billed C.O.D. or if you wish to be notified of the charges so you can send a check.
to
6-15 3-Chome Imagawa Higashisumiyoshi-ku Osaka 546-0003, Japan TEL. (06) 6702-0225
URL: http://www.os-engmes.co.jp
© Copyright 2004 by O.S.Engines Mfg. Co., Ltd. All rights reserved. Printed in Japan. 60091550 090400
FAX. (06) 6704-2722
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