SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS ABOUTYOUR O.S. ENGINE
Remember that your engine is not a "toy", but a highly efficient internalcombustion machine whose power is capable of harming you, or others, if it is
misused.
As owner, you, alone, are responsible for the safe operation of your engine, so act
with discretion and care at all times.
If at some future date, your O.S. engine is acquired by another person, we would
respectfully request that these instructions are also passed on to its new owner.
The advice which follows applies basically to ALL MODEL ENGINES and is
grouped under two headings according to the degree of damage or danger
which might arise through misuse or neglect.
WARNINGS
These cover events which
might involve serious (in
extreme circumstances, even
fatal) injury.
NOTES
These cover the many other
possibilities, generally less obvious
sources of danger, but which, under
certain circumstances, may also
cause damage or injury.
2
WARNINGS
Model engine fuel is poisonous. Do not allow it to
come into contact with the
eyes or mouth.Always store
it in a clearly marked container and out of the reach
of children.
Model engine fuel is also
highly flammable. Keep it
away from an open flame,
excessive heat, sources of
sparks, or anything else
which might ignite it. Do not
smoke or allow anyone else
to smoke, near to it.
Never operate your engine in an enclosed space. Model engines, like
automobile engines, exhaust deadly
carbon-monoxide. Run your engine
only in an open area.
Model engines generate
considerable heat. Do not
touch any part of your
engine until it has cooled.
Contact with the muffler
(silencer), cylinder head
or exhaust header pipe, in
particular, may result in a
serious burn.
3
NOTES
This engine is intended for model cars.
Do not attempt to use it for any other
purpose.
Mount the engine in your model
securely, following the manufacturers'
recommendations, using appropriate
screws and locknuts.
Pit an effective silencer (muffler):
Frequent close exposure to a noisy
exhaust (especially in the case of the
more powerful highspeed engines) may
eventually impair your hearing and such
noise is also likely to cause annoyance
to others over a wide area.
The wearing of safety glasses is also
strongly recommended.
Take care that the glowplug clip or
battery leads do not come into contact
with rotating parts. Also check that the
linkage to the throttle arm is secure.
For their safety, keep all onlookers
(especially small children) well back (at
least 20 feet or 6 meters) when
preparing your model for running.
Before starting the engine, always check
the tightness of all the screws and nuts
especially those of joint and movable
parts such as throttle arm. Missing
retightening the loose screws and nuts
often causes the parts breakage that is
capable of harming you.
4
NOTES
To stop the engine, fully retard the
throttle stick and trim lever on the transmitter, or, in an emergency, cut off the
fuel supply by pinching the fuel delivery
line from the tank.
Do not attempt to disassemble the recoil
starter of the 18TZ-TX. If you do so, the
very strong spring inside will be suddenly
ejected. This can be very dangerous.
Do not extend the starter cord more than
40cm (16"). Do not abruptly release the
operating handle. Allow the cord to
rewind smoothly while still holding the
handle.
Pull the operating handle straight out
when starting the engine, so that the cord
does not rub against the vehicle body or
engine. This will help prevent the cord
from being damaged by abrasion or
engine heat.
Warning! Immediately after a glowplugignition engine has been run and is still
warm, conditions sometimes exist
whereby it is just possible for the engine to
abruptly restart if it is rotated over
compression WITHOUT the glowplug
battery being reconnected.
5
ENGINE CONSTRUCTION
With this engine, the piston
will
feel tight at the top of its stroke
(TDC) when the engine is cold.
This is normal. The cylinder bore
has a slight taper. The piston
and cylinder are designed to
achieve a perfect running
clearance when they reach
operating temperature.
Piston
Cylinder Liner
Crankshaft
Slight taper
When the engine is cold. When the engine is hot.
6
NOTES WHEN APPLYING
AN ELECTRIC STARTER
Do not over-prime. This could
cause a hydraulic lock and damage
the engine on application of the
electric starter.
If over-primed, remove glowplug,
close needle-valve and apply
starter to pump out surplus fuel.
Cover the head with a rag to
prevent pumped out fuel coming
into your eyes.
NOTE
As delivered, the engine has the
carburetor lightly fit into its intake.
Secure it changing its angle
according to the car chassis.
7
MAX-18TZ SERIES
This manual handles the following four versions.
MAX- 18TZ-T with 11 L carburetor
MAX-18TZ(S)-T with 11 L carburetor
MAX-18TZ-TX with 11 L carburetor
MAX-18TZ(P)-T with 11 K carburetor
About the engine
The 18TZ series engines have been
developed for 1/10 class stadium trucks,
off-road vehicles and sport cars. All the
engine are supplied with T type P3 plug.
18TZ-TX is equipped with a newly
developed O.S. No. N1 recoil starter.
INSTRUCTIONS
Standard accessories
Glow Plug P3 T-type head (Turbo head)
1 piece
(Hot Type)
Exhaust Seal Ring 1 piece
About Head Gasket
These engines are fitted with two head gaskets
of 0.1mm thick and 0.2mm thick. It is
suggested to adjust the total thickness
according to atmospheric temperature,
humidity and glowplug used.
At early stage of running-in, when a glowplug
tends to burn out early or when high
nitromethane content fuel is used, try to run
the engine as it is or removing a 0.1mm
gasket.
When low nitromethane content fuel is used,
try to run the engine removing a 0.2mm
gasket.
8
TOOLS, ACCESSORIES, etc.
The following items are necessary for operating the
engine.
Items necessary for starting
FUEL
Generally, it is suggested that the user selects a fuel
that is commercially available for model two-stroke
engines and contains 10-30% nitromethane. As a
starting point, we recommend a fuel containing 20%
nitromethane, changing to a fuel containing more
nitro if necessary. When the brand of fuel is
changed, or the nitro content increased, it is
advisable to repeat the running-in procedure
referred to in the RUNNING-IN paragraphs. Please
note that with high-nitro fuels,
although power may be increased
for competition purposes,
glowplug elements do not last as
long and engine life will be
shortened.
REMINDER!
Model engine fuel is poisonous.
not allow it to come into contact with
the eyes or mouth. Always store it in a
clearly marked container and out of
the reach of children.
Model engine fuel is also highly
flammable. Keep it away from open
flame, excessive heat, sources of
sparks, or anything else which might
ignite it. Do not smoke or allow anyone
else to smoke, near to it.
FUEL FILTER
To installed in the fuel line between
fuel tank and carburetor to prevent
dust coming into the carburetor.
GLOWPLUG IGNITER
Commercialy available handy
glowplug heater in which the
glowplug battery and battery
leads are integrated.
9
Do
STARTER BOX
For
starting the engine.
It is not necessary for
the recoil starter version.
TOOLS
HEX WRENCH
Necessary for engine installation.
1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, 3mm
7.2V BATTERIES FOR STARTER BOX
Batteries for starter box.
Select according to the
starter box used. Be sure to
full charge before using.
FUEL PUMP
For filling the fuel tank, a simple,
polyethylene "squeeze" bottle,
with a suitable spout, is required,
SILICONE FUEL LINE
Heatproof silicone tubing of
approx. 5mm o.d. and 2mm i.d.
is required for the connection
between the fuel tank and
engine.
SCREWDRIVER
Necessary for carburetor adjustments.
No.1, No.2, etc
LONG SOCKET WRENCH WITH PLUG GRIP
Recommended for easy removal and
replacement of the angled and recessed
glowplug, the O.S.Long Socket Wrench
incorporates a special grip.
10
BASIC ENGINE PARTS
Heatsink Head
Heatsink Head
Starter Handle
Carburetor
Type 11K
Crankshaft
Mounting Lugs
Crankcase
MAX-18TZ(P)-T
Exhaust
Cover Plate
Carburetor
Type 11L
Crankshaft
11
Drive Hub
Mounting Lugs
Crankcase
Exhaust
Recoil Starter
Assembly No.N1
Rear Adaptor
MAX-18TZ-TX
CARBURETOR CONTROLS (11K)
Needle Valve
Mixture Control Valve
Throttle Stop
Screw
Thermo Insulator
Metering Needle
Four adjustable controls are provided on
this carburetor.
The Needle-Valve:
For adjusting the mixture strength when the
throttle is fully open.
The Mixture Control Valve:
For changing the mixture strength at mid
speed and acceleration. (Do not rotate the
screw more than one turn.)
The Metering Needle:
For adjusting the mixture strength at partthrottle and idling speeds, to obtain steady
idling and smooth acceleration to mid
speeds.
The Throttle Stop Screw:
For setting the minimum idle speed:
NOTE: Readjustment may be necessary,
occasionally to allow for changes in fuel
formula, gear ratio or clutch engagement
point.
12
CARBURETOR CONTROLS (11L)
Needle Valve
Throttle Stop
Screw
Thermo Insulator
Mixture Control Valve
Three adjustable controls are provided on
this carburetor.
The Needle-Valve:
For adjusting the mixture strength when the
throttle is fully open.
The Mixture Control Screw:
For adjusting the mixture strength at partthrottle and idling speeds, to obtain steady
idling and smooth acceleration to mid
speeds.
The Throttle Stop Screw:
For setting the minimum idling speed:
NOTE: Readjustment may be necessary,
occasionally to allow for changes in fuel
formula, gear ratio or clutch engagement
point.
13
GLOWPLUG
Since the compatibility of glowplug and fuel
may have a marked effect on performance and
reliability, it may be worthwhile to choose the
R/C type plug found most suitable after
tests. Recommended O.S. plugs are P3 and P6.
Carefully install plug finger-tight, before final
tightening with the correct size plug wrench.
The role of the glowplug
With a glowplug engine, ignition is initiated by the
application of a 1.5-volt power source. When the
battery is disconnected, the heat retained within the
combustion chamber remains sufficient to keep the
plug filament glowing, thereby continuing to keep the
engine running. Ignition timing is 'automatic' : under
reduced load, allowing higher rpm, the plug becomes
hotter and, appropriately, fires the fuel/air charge
earlier; conversely, at reduced rpm, the plug become
cooler and ignition is retarded.
Glowplug life
Particularly in the case of very high performance
engines, glowplugs must be regarded as expendable
items. However, plug life can be extended and engine
performance maintained by careful use, i.e.:
Install a plug suitable for the engine.
Use fuel containing a moderate percentage of
nitromethane unless more is essential for racing
events.
Do not run the engine too lean and do not leave the
battery connected while adjusting the needle.
When to replace the glowplug
Apart from when actually burned out, a plug may
need to be replaced because it no longer delivers its
best performance, such as when:
Filament surface has roughened and turned white.
Filament coil has become distorted.
Foreign matter has adhered to filament or plug
body has corroded.
Engine tends to cut out when idling.
Starting qualities deteriorate.
14
INSTALLATION OF THE CARBURETOR
As delivered, the engine has its carburetor
lightly fit into the intake boss. Secure it as
follows.
1. Loosen the retainer screw, rotate the
carburetor to its correct position and make
sure that it is pressed well down into the
intake boss, compressing the rubber gasket,
before retightening screw.
2. Rotate the retainer screw gently until it
stops, then tighten a further 60-90°.
Do not overtighten the screw as this will
damage the carburetor body.
Rotate the retainer nut
gently until it stops.
Tighten a further 60-90"
ENGINE INSTALLATION
Make sure that the vehicle's engine mounting
surfaces are level and in the same plane. Poor
installation may cause distortion of the
crankcase, bearings, etc., resulting in erratic
running and loss of performance.
The recommended screws for securing the
engine are 3mm or 4-40 steel Allen hexagon
socket type.
If existing holes in the engine mount do not align
perfectly with engine mounting lugs, enlarge
them slightly with a needle-file so that screws are
in alignment with the mounting holes.
Do not allow bottom
of crankcase to
touch chassis.
Chassis
Chamfer inside edges of bearers.
15
In case of the18TZ-TX
Avoid forcing the screws. Secure with locknuts.
If the bottom of the recoil starter housing would
otherwise touch the car chassis, install the engine mount spacers (optional extra) between
the engine's mounting lugs and the engine
mount. With some vehicles, it may be necessary to make minor trimming modifications to
chassis or body when installing the engine.
NOTE:
When spacers are supplied joined in pairs
(see sketch) separate them as shown.
Either face may be placed downwards.
Mount Spacer
(Optional Extra)
Separate
Engine Mount
NOTES CONCERNING THE RECOIL STARTER
REMINDER! ( 18TZ-TX ONLY)
Do not attempt to disassemble the recoil starter.
•
If you do so, the very strong spring inside will be
suddenly ejected. This can be very dangerous.
Do not extend the starter cord more than 40cm
•
(16"). Do not abruptly release the operating
handle. Allow the cord to rewind smoothly while
still holding the handle.
Pull the operating handle straight out when
•
starting the engine, so that the cord does not
rub against the vehicle body or engine.
This will help prevent the cord from being
•
damaged by abrasion or engine heat.
Try to avoid spilling fuel over the starter unit and
•
its cord. Some fuels have a detrimental effect on
these parts.
The starter prevents the engine from being ro-
•
tated in the wrong direction.The unit will be
damaged if you attempt to force the flywheel in
the opposite direction (i.e. clockwise when
viewed from the crankshaft end).
16
PRESSURIZED FUEL SYSTEM
The somewhat violent changes of vehicle
attitude that occur in off-road running,
combined with the fact that, in buggy type
cars, the fuel tank is often located some
distance from the carburetor, means that
fuel 'head' at the carburettor can vary and
upset running.Therefore,it is recommended
that a muffler pressurized fuel feed system
be used.
Never run your vehicle without installing the
air cleaner. Dust and dirt that may otherwise
be drawn into the engine will rapidly shorten
its life.
Silicone tubing
Fuel Tank
Silencer
Connect suitable length
of Silicone tubing between
fuel tank and silencer.
Before starting the engine, always
check the tightness of all the screws
and nuts especially those of joint and
movable parts such as throttle arm.
Missing retightening the loose
screws and nuts often causes the
parts breakage that is capable of
harming you.
STARTING THE ENGINE &
RUNNING-IN ('Breaking-in)
The following procedure is suitable for these
engines when the O.S. T-1040 tuned silencer
and a fuel containing up to 30% nitromethane are used.
Fill the tank completely with fuel.
Temporarily remove the glowplug to check
that it glows bright red when energized.
17
Element glows when energized,
Replace the plug when the
element does not glow or is
burnt out.
Pliers
In case of the 11 K carburetor
Set the throttle-stop screw so that the minimum
throttle opening (idle setting) is approximately
0.3-0.5mm.
Glow Plug Igniter
Turn the needle-valve clockwise slowly until
it stops. This is the fully closed position.
Do not force to turn further.
Open the Needle-Valve
2 turns from the fully
closed position.
Needle Valve
Close
Open
In case of the 11 L carburetor
Set the throttle-stop screw so that the minimum
throttle opening (idle setting) is approximately
1.0mm.
approx
1mm
Throttle Stop
Note:
Throttle opening at idle should be checked
before fitting an air cleaner.
18
Screw
Switch
on the transmitter
and
make
sure
each linkage moves correctly.
Turn the engine with starter box to draw the
fuel into the engine.
that
Deliver fuel into the carburetor.
Fuel
Fuel tank side
Now connect glowplug battery lead to heat
the plug filament and start the engine,
When the engine starts, first allow it to
operate in short runs at the very rich starting
settings, with the glowplug battery still
connected and the driving wheels clear of
the ground. The rich mixture will, under
these conditions, provide adequate
lubrication and cooling, indicated by profuse
smoke from the exhaust.
Attention:
It is vitally important to set
the throttle at the correct
position before starting the
engine. If the engine is
allowed to run with the throttle too far open
under "no load" conditions (i.e. with the driving
wheels not in contact with the ground) it will
rapidly over-heat and may be seriously
damaged.
Next, disconnect the glowplug battery and try
running the car on the track. If the engine
stalls, open the throttle fractionally, but try to
keep the engine running as rich as possible: if
it stops because of being excessively overrich, close the Needle-Valve 30° and try again.
19
Run the car on the track until one tank of fuel
has been consumed, then close the NeedleValve 30° and run the car for another full tank
of fuel. Repeat this procedure until 5 more
tanks of fuel have been consumed, during
which time the throttle may be opened for brief
bursts of increased power. If the engine stops
at medium speeds, close the Mixture Screw
45-90°.
The position of the needle-valve
Needle
Note:
If the engine should need to be disassembled (e.g. for cleaning or minor parts replacement), it is advisable to return the needle-valve to the original rich, starting setting and check whether further running-in
when starting the engine.
Close the needle-valve approx.
30° after running the vehicle for
one full tank of fuel.
Repeat this procedure several
times.
time is required before the car is raced
again. In the event of any major working
parts (e.g. piston/cylinder liner assembly)
being replaced or the fuel being changed,
especially to high nitro fuel, the complete
running-in should be repeated.
To stop the engine, close the throttle to
idling speed, then shut it off completely with
the trim lever on the transmitter. To cut off
the fuel supply, pinch the fuel delivery tube
to the carburetor.
Warning!
Do not touch rotating
parts, engine and silencer when stopping the
engine as they become
very hot, and contact
with them may result in
a serious burn.
20
Fuel
FINAL ADJUSTMENT
•
Run the vehicle (with throttle fully open) over
the longest available straight course, in order
to observe the model's speed. Next return
the car to the starting point, close the NeedleValve 30° and repeat the run, taking note of
the improvement in performance. Continue
with further runs, gradually reducing the
Needle-Valve setting and aiming to achieve
the highest straight-line speed. Remember,
however, that, if the Needle-Valve is shut
down too far, the engine will overheat and,
accompanied by visibly diminished exhaust
smoke, the model will lose speed. At this
point, throttle down immediately, stop the
vehicle and reopen the Needle-Valve 30°.
•
Having established the optimum Needle-
Valve setting, check the Mixture Control
Valve setting as follows.
With the engine running, close the throttle
and allow it to idle for about five seconds,
then reopen the throttle fully. If, at this point,
the engine puffs out an excessive amount
smoke and the vehicle does not accelerate
smoothly and rapidly, it is probable that
idling mixture is too rich,
In this case, turn the Mixture
case of the 11 L and the Metering Needle
case of the 11 K clockwise 45 degrees. If,
the other hand, the engine tends to speed
momentarily and then cut out abruptly when
the throttle is opened,the idling mixture is too
lean. Correct this by turning the Mixture
Control Valve in case of the 11L and the
Metering Needle in case of the 11K counter-
clockwise 45 degrees.
21
Control Valve in
of
the
in
on,
up
Carry out adjustments patiently, under actual
running conditions, until the engine responds
quickly and positively to the throttle control.
Warning!
Mixture adjustments (whether via the
Mixture Control Valve, or the Needle-Valve)
cannot be made accurately under 'no-load'
conditions, which, in any case, are not
advised, since such operation carries the
risk of seriously damaging the engine
through over-revving and overheating.
With the optimum mixture control position,
light smoke is visible during high speed
running,and the engine revolutions increase
smoothly during acceleration. Remember
that, if the engine is operated with the fuel/air
mixture slightly too lean, it will overheat and
run unevenly. As with all engines, it is
advisable to set both needle-valve and
mixture control screw very slightly on the rich
side of the best rpm setting, as a safety
measure.
If the engine runs too fast with the throttle
closed, the throttle stop screw should be
turned counter-clockwise to allow the throttle
opening to be reduced.
Finally, beyond the nominal break-in period,
a slight readjustment toward a leaner needle
setting may be required to maintain
performance.
CARBURETOR CLEANLINESS
The correct functioning of the carburetor
depends on its small fuel orifices remaining
clear.
REALIGNMENT OF METERING NEEDLE AND
MIXTURE CONTROL VALVE
In the course of making carburetor adjustments, it is just possible that the Metering Needle and the Mixture Control Valve may be inadvertently screwed in or out too far and thereby
moved beyond its effective adjustment range.
22
The basic positions can be found by rotating
the Metering Needle until its slotted head is
flush with the ball link body.
In case of the 11K carburetor
Carburetor Body
Carburetor Body
Ball Link
Rotate the Metering
Needle until its slotted
head is flush with the
ball link body. This is the
standard position.
Metering Needle
Slide Valve
First rotate the Mixture
Control Valve until its slotted
head is flush with the
carburetor body. Then screw
the valve in exactly 0.5 turn.
This is the standard position.
Mixture Control Valve
In case of the 11 L carburetor
Throttle Lever
Carburetor Body
23
Rotate the Mixture
Control Valve until its
slotted head is flush with
the ball link body. This is
the standard position.
Mixture Control Valve
CARE AND MAINTENANCE
1.The minute particles of foreign matter, that are
present in any fuel may, by accumulating and
partially obstructing fuel flow, cause engine
performance to become erratic and unreliable.
O.S. 'Super-Filters' (large and small) are available,
as optional extras, to deal with this problem.
One of these filters installed to the pickup tube
inside your refueling container, will prevent the entry
of foreign material into the fuel tank. It is also
recommended that a good in-line filter be installed
between the tank and carburetor.
2. Do not forget to clean the filters regularly to remove
dirt and lint that accumulate on the filter screens.
Also, clean the carburetor itself occasionally.
3. At the end of each operating session, drain out any
fuel that may remain in the fuel tank.
Afterwards,energize the glow-plug and try to restart
the engine, to burn off any fuel that may remain
inside the engine. Repeat this procedure until the
engine fails to fire. Do this while the engine is still
warm.
4. Then, inject some after-run oil into the engine, and
rotate the engine with an electric starter for 4 to 5
seconds to distribute the oil to all the working
parts.
Note:
Do not inject after-run oil into the carburetor as
this may cause the 0-rings inside the carburetor
to deteriorate. These procedures will reduce the
risks of starting difficulties or corrosion after a
period of storage.
5. Finally, when cleaning the exterior of the engine,
use methanol or kerosene. Do not use gasoline or
any solvent that might damage the silicone fuel
tubing.
Caution:
The rear crankshaft bearing of this engine uses a
special plastic retainer. If the front housing needs
to be heated to remove or replace the bearing, do
not allow the bearing to exceed 120°C (248°F),
otherwise it may be damaged and rendered
unserviceable.
24
Installing Dust Caps
When storing the engine, install the cap on
the exhaust port, carburetor, etc. to prevent
dust from entering the engine.
Dirt and dust may lodge in
marked places.
CHECKING THE ENGINE
Engine will not develop normal performance
after long time running due to wearing of parts.
It is suggested to replace necessary parts when
the following symptoms are detected.
Engine sound changes and easily overheats.
Power has dropped extremely.
Idling is unstable and/or engine tends to stop
at idling.
In most cases, ball bearings, cylinder & piston
assembly, connecting rod and/or crankcase have
become worn out or abnormal. Check the
parts carefully and replace them if necessary.
25
TROUBLE SHOOTING
Engine fails to fire.
Fuel tank is empty.
Fuel not reaching the engine.
Glowplug element is burnt out.
Glowplug battery discharged
Clogged fuel filter
Air cleaner and silencer inside is dirty.
Over priming
Fuel tubing is disconnected.
Fuel tubing is kinked, split or has a hole.
Incorrect servo linkage
Reverse rotating direction of starter box.
Recoil starter slips.
Fill the tank with fuel and repeat
Priming procedure.
Replace glowplug.
Recharge or replace the battery.
Clean or replace fuel filter.
Replace cleaner element and clean inside silencer.
Remove glowplug and pump
excess
fuel.
Connect fuel tubing securely.
Check the tubing carefully and replace if necessary.
Re-linkage after setting servo at neutral.
Mare sure it rotates counter clockwise seen
from crankshaft side.
Inject cleaner spray
into starter cord crevis
on the body.
26
Engine fires intermittently but does not run.
Insufficient fuel in the tank.
Deteriorated glowplug
Clogged fuel filter
Air cleaner and silencer inside is dirty.
Engine overheated
Incorrect clutch release
Too immediately disconnecting plug battery.
Fuel in the tank extremely bubbled
Fill the tank with fuel.
Replace glowplug.
Clean or replace fuel filter.
Replace cleaner element and clean inside silencer.
Wait until engine is cooled.
Adjust the tension of clutch spring.
Do not disconnect plug battery and wait until
r.p.m, become stable.
Fit 0 rings to the tank screws to
prevent bubbles.
27
Unstable idle
Unsuitable glowplug
Unsuitable fuel
Extremely light flywheel
Silencer is disconnected or has play
Not reaching expected peak r.p.m.
Insufficient warming up or running-in.
Silencer or manifold is not securely connected
or disconnected.
Fuel tubing from tank to is split or broken.
Use suggested glowplug in the instructions.
Do not use extremely high nitro or low oil fuel.
Add suitable load.
Install silencer securely.
Set the needle only after warming up.
Complete running-in.
C...Cap Screw M...0val Fillister-Head Screw
F...FIat Head Screw N...Round Head Screw S...Set Screw
11
4
5
6
7
9
9-1
8
40
11L CARBURETOR PARTS LIST
1
21285901
1-1
27881820
1-2
21881950
2
22681310
3
21884110
4
22481506
5
21884200
6
21283210
7
22681419
8
21481420
9
21982630
9-1
27881820
21165010
10
11
22615000
The specifications are subject to alteration for improvement without notice.
Needle Valve Assembly
"0" Ring (2pcs.)
No.14 Universal Nipple Assembly
Throttle Stop Screw
Carburetor Body (w/Thermo Insulator)
Rotor Spring
Carburetor Rotor
Dust Cover
Throttle Lever
Throttle Lever Fixing Nut
Mixture Control Screw
"0" Ring (2pcs.)
Thermo Insulator
Carburetor Rubber Gasket
41
O.S. GENUINE PARTS & ACCESSORIES
O.S. Glow Plug
P6
(71641600)
P7
(71641700)
P8
(71641800)
T-1040 L52
(72103051)
T-1040 L70
(72103071)
T-1040R52
(72103056)
T-1040R70
(72103076)
Exhaust Header Pipes
M1000 (72103170)
Header Pipe Spring
(72106172)
M1010(72103180)
Header Pipe Spring
(72106172)
42
RACING ENGINE PARTS
ForSuper10 Class (72106160)
Header Pipe Spring (72106172)
For Pure-10 Class Short (72106170)
Header Pipe Spring (72106172)
For
Pure10
Class
Header Pipe Spring (72106172)
Super Joint Tube 15
(72103310)
Exhaust Seal Ring (2pcs.)
(21427200)
Long
(72106180)
O.S. GENUINE PARTS & ACCESSORIES
Super Air Cleaner 202
(72412000)
•
202 Cleaner Body
(72412100)
• 202 Filter Element (4pcs.)
(72412200)
SUPER AIR CLEANER 203
(72413000)
203 Filter Element (4pcs.)
(72413200)
RACING ENGINE PARTS
Engine Mount Spacer
(72404000)
Cap Screw Set
M2.6x7 (10pcs.)
(79871020)
Dust Cap Set
3mm (5pcs.) (73300305)
8mm (3pcs.) (73300812)
16mm (3pcs.) (73301612)
18mm (3pcs.) (73301812)
Long Socket Wrench
With Plug Grip
(71521000)
The specifications are subject to alteration for improvement without notice.
43
18TZ(P)-T THREE VIEW DRAWING
SPECIFICATIONS
Displacement
Bore
Stroke
Practical R.P.M.
Power output
Weight
3.0cc(0.183cu.in.)
16.0mm (0.629 in.)
15.0mm (0.590 in.)
3,000-34,000 r.p.m.
1.8 ps/29,000 r.p.m.
225.8g (7.96oz.)
Dimensions (mm)
44
18TZ-T THREE VIEW DRAWING
Displacement
Bore
Stroke
Practical R.P.M.
Power output
Weight
3.0 cc (0.183cu.in.)
16.0mm (0.629 in.)
15.0mm (0.590 in.)
3,000-34,000 r.p.m.
1.8 ps / 29,000 r.p.m.
224.8g (7.930Z.)
Dimensions (mm)
45
18TZ(S)-T THREE VIEW DRAWING
Displacement
Bore
Stroke
Practical R.P.M.
Power output
Weight
3.0 cc (0.183 cu.in.)
16.0mm (0.629 in.)
15.0mm (0.590 in.)
3,000-34,000 r.p.m.
1.8 ps/29,000 r.p.m.
222.4g (7.84oz.)
Dimensions (mm)
46
18TZ-TX THREE VIEW DRAWING
SPECIFICATIONS
Displacement
Bore
Stroke
Practical R.P.M.
Power output
Weight
3.0cc (0.183cu.in.)
16.0mm (0.629 in.)
15.0mm (0.590 in.)
3,000-34,000 r.p.m.
1.8 ps/29,000 r.p.m.
263.7g (9.30oz.)
Dimensions (mm)
47
MEMO
48
GUARANTEED TO
KEEP YOUR R/C CAR
RUNNING WELL
KEEP IT CLEAN
Dirt is the most common way to ruin your engine. If it gets inside,
the dirt will act just like sandpaper and ruin the close fit that the
parts need for your engine to operate correctly.
• Use an air filter to keep as much dirt outside as possible.
A two or three stage filter with an oiled foam element is the
best way to go.
• Dirt on the outside of the engine acts just like a blanket of
insulation and prevents proper cooling. Keep your engine
clean.
•Use a fuel filter. Dirt getting into the fuel will clog the fuel
passages in the carburetor and also get those abrasive
particles inside. Keep your engine clean.
•Dirt will damage your engine very quickly and repairs for
are
not covered by the engine manufacturer's warranty.
dirt
KEEP IT RICH
The high-speed needle valve is used to adjust the mixture of fuel
and air needed to get the optimum performance from your engine.
If it's adjusted too lean, your engine will get less fuel than it should.
•You must remember that the engine gets its lubrication from
the oil that's in the fuel. If you run it too lean, the engine will
not get enough oil to keep the internal parts lubricated, even
thought it sounds better.
•Parts will start to run hot and then seize. The result Is a
typical problem as a broken connecting rod that seized to
the crankshaft, and then broke as the crankshaft tried to
continue to turn.
• Keep the engine running on the rich side of the highest
RPM setting to ensure proper lubrication.
KEEP IT ON THE GROUND
You should run your engine at high speeds only when you are
driving the car.
• Do not put the car on the box or stand with the wheels off
the ground and then run the engine. You'll quickly overspeed
your engine and ruin it. Generally, the connecting rod will
break from the over-rewing.
• Do not remove the engine from the car and try to run it with
just the flyweel. That does the same as described above. The
engine must be run with the load of the car when driving.
49
KEEP IT COOL
If you run your engine good and hot, you'll have a nice chunk of
useless aluminum in a short time.
•Running the engine hot causes the oil in the fuel to break
down and quit working. The repairs won't be cheap.
Your engine is equipped with a special heat-sink cylinder head to
make sure it gets enough cooling..
•Keep the head clean so that the dirt doesn't act like an
insulating blanket.
•Make sure that any airflow passes through the fins of the
cylinder and head.
• Make as many cutouts in the car's body as necessary, and
don't skimp on the size.
KEEP IT LUBED
Make sure you're using a fuel from a reputable, name-brand
manufacturer.
•Your fuel should have at least the amount of oil
recommended by the engine manufacturer, If you can't find
a particular recommendation on oil content, then use a fuel
with 20%-22% oil content.
•If you're trying to run a fuel with more than 20%
Nitromethane, you should add some oil to your fuel, such as
KlotzTechniplate™or Baker "AA" Castor Oil™.
KEEP IT PROPERLY
LUBED DURING
STORAGE
If you let your engine sit with nothing done to it after you last ran it,
the internal parts will start to corrode... especially the steel
crankshaft and ball bearings. They'll rust. If the fuel has castor oil
in it, it will begin to dry out and become gummy.
• Rust inside an engine will erode tight clearances and score
polished surfaces.
• Gummy fuel residue blocks oil holes in connecting rods and
crankshafts.
50
GUARANTEED TO
KEEP YOUR R/C CAR
RUNNING WELL
(CONTINUED)
Here's how to prevent rust;
• At the end of the day's running, pull the fuel line from the engine.
• Drain the tank, and then start the engine.
• Let it run until it's absolutely dry of fuel.
•Add several drops of an after-run oil. There are several after-run
oils on the hobby market. You can also make your own from a 5050 mixture of "Marvel Mystery Oil"™ and automatic transmission
fluid.
•After adding the after-run oil, turn the engine over several times
to make sure it's worked into all of the engine's internals. Add
more if you are not sure that you put in enough.
(Continued)
KEEP GOOD POWER
Nitro, or Nitromethane, is the main power ingredient in model fuels.
Raising the nitro content will make the fuel "hotter"— that is, allow
the engine to develop more power. More is better, right? Not really.
•Unless your engine is designed and ported for high-nitro
fuels, you won't see much gain in performance above 20%25%.
•While some people are running nitro levels as high as 50%,
they have modified their engines to handle it. They've also
carefully blended their fuel to make sure they have enough
oil.
•The best performance enhancer is a good driver. A driver
who can keep the car on the track will usually beat a less
experienced driver with a hotter set up.
KEEP IT SMOOTH
When you tighten the pilot shaft onto your flywheel, it can be hard
to keep the engine from turning over. It may be tempting to stick
something into the exhaust port to keep the piston from moving,
but do not do this! You'll also put a nice "ding" in the piston and in
the cylinder liner. You've just ruined your nice, new engine. A new
ABC piston/cylinder assembly (the most commonly-used kind in
R/C car engines) will put a nice hole in your pocketbook.
51
(CONTINUED)
This kind of damage is not covered under the warrenty.
• If the flywheel can't be tightened onto the engine without it trying
to turn over, grip the drive washer in a pair of large adjustable
pliers, like Channel Locks™, with the drive washer protected
under several layers cloth. You could also try a strap wrench.
•If you feel more adventurous, you can remove the rear cover of
the engine and insert a piece of wooden dowel stock or plastic
rod to keep the crankshaft from turning. Don't put anything into
the engine that will hit the piston.
KEEP AWAY FROM
SILICONE SEAL AND
THREAD STICKERS
Silicone sealers usually have a smell like vinegar when they're
curing. Vinegar is mostly acetic acid and that causes corrosion.
•The inside of an engine has two kinds of metal in it...
aluminum for most of the parts and steel for the crankshaft
and bearings.
•Two different kinds of metal will start to corrode if they have
some kind of electrolyte between them and a tiny bit of acid
will do the job.
• Aluminum corrosion can cause the entire inside of the
engine to turn a dark grey or nearly black color. Corroded
steel is rust. See above about rust.
KEEP IT DRY
While it sounds obvious, keeping water out of your engine isnt as
easy as it sounds. Sure, you can dry it out when you've run
through some mud or puddles, but how about condensation?
•Changes in temperature can cause moisture in the air to
condense inside the engine. This can happen in the winter
and summer, so keep your model inside the house, not in the
garage.
•Keeping it inside the house also gives you good reason to
keep it clean just try to explain oil spots on the carpet when
your engine is dripping oil from a just-finished running
session.
52
Copylight 1999--3032045
LIMITED WARRANTY
Your engine is guaranteed to be free of defects in parts and workmanship for a period of 2 years
from the date of purchase when returned for service accompanied by Your proof of purchase.
Crash damage and problems caused by neglect or abuse will not be covered under warranty.
Damagecaused by customer disassembly, tampering, use of substandard fuel, use of incorrect
accessories (glow plug, prop, etc.) ,or any use of the engine for which it is not specifically intended
will automatically void the warranty of the engine.
Should your engine require warranty or non-warranty service please return it via UPS
or
insured Parcel Post to our national servicing facility:
Hobby Services
P.O.Box4021
1610 Interstate Dr.
Champaign IL 61821
Ph. 217-398-0007
Along with Your engine and proof of purchase date please enclose a complete written explanation
detailing the problems. State your name and address clearly.
For repairs not covered under warranty, you must specify whether you wish the charges
be billed C.O.D. or if you wish to be notified of the charges so you can send a check.
to
6-15 3-Chome Imagawa Higashisumiyoshi-ku
Osaka 546-0003, Japan TEL. (06) 6702-0225