Orion Observer 60 ultra Instruction Manual

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Orion®

Observer

#9831 Altazimuth Refracting Telescope

™

60 Ultra

™

Providing Exceptional Consumer Optical Products Since 1975

Customer Support [phone]
E-mail: [e-mail]

Corporate Offices [phone]

P.O. Box 1815, Santa Cruz, CA 95061

IN 079 Rev. A 0898

Dual-ring finder
scope bracket

Finder scope

Finder scope
alignment screws

Objective lens

Dew cap/glare shield

Yoke knob

Focuser drawtube

Eyepiece

Star diagonal

Focus knob

Altitude micro­motion knob

Altitude micro­motion rod

Altitude lock bolt

Altazimuth yoke mount

Azimuth lock knob

Tripod leg attachment bolt

Accessory tray

Accessory tray bracket

Tripod leg

Leg lock bolt

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Figure 1. Observer 60 Ultra Parts Diagram

Congratulations on your purchase of a quality Orion telescope! Your new Observer 60mm Ultra

Altazimuth Refractor is designed primarily for astronomical viewing, but can also be used for terrestrial
observation (with the recommended addition of an image-erecting prism).

If you have never used a telescope before, we would like to welcome you to amateur astronomy. Take
some time to familiarize yourself with the night sky. Learn to recognize the patterns of stars in the major
constellations; a star wheel, or planisphere, available from Orion or your local telescope shop, will
greatly help. With a little practice, a little patience, and a reasonably dark sky away from city lights, you'll
find your telescope to be a never-ending source of wonder, exploration, and relaxation.

These instructions will help you set up and properly use and care for your telescope. Please read them
over thoroughly before getting started.

Table of Contents

1. Terminology ......................................................................................................................... 3

2. Parts List .............................................................................................................................. 4

3. Assembly ............................................................................................................................. 4

4. Aligning the Finder Scope ................................................................................................... 4

5. Using the Telescope ............................................................................................................ 5

6. Astronomical Viewing ........................................................................................................... 6

7. Terrestrial Viewing ................................................................................................................ 7

8. Care and Maintenance .......................................................................................................... 7

9. Specifications ......................................................................................................................... 8

1. Terminology

Altazimuth Mount A simple type of telescope mount that
allows the telescope to be moved in two perpendicular direc­tions: up-and-down (altitude) and sideways (azimuth).

Altitude Micro-Motion (or Slow-Motion) Control A two­piece threaded rod that is anchored to the altazimuth mount
and to the telescope tube. A thumbwheel on the rod can be
turned to slowly lengthen or shorten its length, resulting in
small changes in the pointing altitude of the telescope.

Dew Cap Reduces moisture buildup on objective lens; reduc­es off-axis glare.

Diagonal Diverts the light cone by means of a mirror or prism
to provide a more comfortable viewing angle (usually 90° or
45°). Diagonals are often used with refractor and catadioptric
telescopes, but not with Newtonian reflectors.

Eyepiece The part into which you look. It contains a number
of lenses that together magnify the image formed by the tele­scope and allow your eye to focus on it. Eyepieces of different
focal lengths will produce different magnifications.

Finder Scope Aids in aiming the telescope. It is a small, low­power refracting scope, usually with crosshairs, that rides
piggyback on the main telescope’s optical tube. Its wide field
of view greatly facilitates the location of target objects for
viewing in the main telescope’s eyepiece.

Focal Length For refractors, the distance from the objective
lens to the point at which the light rays converge to the focus
point. The focal length of a refractor is a function of the curva­ture of the objective lens as well as on the type of glass it is
made of. Focal length is usually expressed in millimeters.

Objective Lens The main lens system on the front end of a
refractor. It gathers light and brings it to a focus. The objective
lens of this telescope actually consists of two lens compo­nents (elements).

Optical Tube The main body of the telescope, which houses
the optics.

Rack-and-Pinion Focuser A type of focusing device that
employs a grooved rack gear and a meshing pinion gear to
move the eyepiece-holding drawtube in and out, thereby
allowing adjustment of the image focus.

WARNING: Never look directly at the Sun

through your telescope or its finder scope—
even for an instant—without a professionally
made solar filter that completely covers the front
of the instrument, or permanent eye damage
could result. Be sure to also cover
the front of the finder scope with an opaque
material. Young children should use this
telescope only with adult supervision.

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2. Parts List

1 Optical tube assembly, with altitude micro-motion
control rod attached

1 Altitude lock bolt

1 Altazimuth yoke mount

1 6x30 achromatic crosshair finder scope

1 Dual-ring finder scope bracket

1 25mm (32x) Kellner eyepiece (1.25" barrel diameter)

1 9mm (89x) Kellner eyepiece (1.25" barrel diameter)

1 90° prism star diagonal (hybrid .965"/1.25")

1 Accessory tray

1 Accessory tray bracket

3 Tripod legs

3 Tripod leg lock bolts

3. Assembly

Carefully open all of the boxes in the shipping container. Make
sure all the parts listed in Section 1 are present. Save the boxes
and packaging material. In the unlikely event that you need to
return the telescope, you must use the original packaging.

Assembling the telescope should take only about 10-15 minutes.
All bolts should be tightened securely to eliminate flexing and wob­bling, but be careful not to over-tighten or the threads may strip.

During assembly (and anytime, for that matter), DO NOT
touch any of the lenses of the telescope, finder scope, eye­pieces, or the prism of the diagonal, with your fingers. The
optical surfaces have delicate coatings on them that can eas­ily be damaged if touched inappropriately. NEVER remove
any lens assembly from its housing for any reason, or the
product warranty and return policy are voided.

1. Screw a tripod leg lock bolt into the hole in the lower aluminum
cuff on each tripod leg. Extend each leg to the same length
before tightening the bolts. You can readjust the legs to a more
desirable height later, after the scope is completely assem­bled.

2. Remove the tripod leg attachment bolt from the top of
each of the tripod legs. Attach the three tripod legs to the
base of the yoke mount by lining up the holes in the top of
the legs with the holes in the base of the mount, then
insert a tripod leg attachment bolt through. Only loosely
tighten the nuts, for now. The accessory tray attachment
point on each leg should be facing inward.

3. Stand the tripod upright with the yoke mount attached, and
spread the legs apart enough to attach the accessory tray
bracket to the three attachment points on the legs. Use the
nut and bolt that is already inserted in each of the three
attachment points to fasten the accessory tray bracket to
the legs. Make sure the accessory tray bracket is attached
so the cap in the middle of it faces upward.

4. Now, spread the tripod legs apart as far as they will go,
until the accessory tray bracket is at its fully extended
position. Attach the tripod tray by removing the cap in the
center of the accessory tray bracket. Place the accessory
tray on the accessory tray bracket so the hole in the tray
fits on the circular spacer in the center of the bracket.
Secure the tray by replacing the cap to the center of the
accessory tray bracket.

5. Next, tighten the nuts of the tripod leg attachment bolts at
the base of the mount.

6. To install the optical tube in the yoke mount, first remove
the two yoke knobs from the sides of the optical tube. Slide
the altitude micro-motion rod into its receptacle on the
side of the yoke. Then set the optical tube in the yoke, lin­ing up the threaded holes in the sides of the tube with the
mounting holes in the yoke. Thread in the yoke knobs until
the telescope is held securely.

7. Screw in the altitude lock bolt into the receptacle on the
side of the yoke mount.

8. Insert the small end of the star diagonal into the end of the
focuser drawtube, securing it with the thumbscrew on the
focuser drawtube.

9. Then insert an eyepiece into the star diagonal and secure
it in place with the thumbscrew on the diagonal. (Always
loosen the thumbscrews before rotating or removing the
diagonal or an eyepiece.)

10. Attach the finder scope bracket to the optical tube over the
two pre-installed bolts located near the focuser. It doesn’t
matter whether the slanted bracket stem slants forward or
backward; choose whichever orientation you like. Secure
the bracket in place with the two round thumbscrews. Do
not loosen the two small hex nuts at the base of the bolts,
as they keep them from falling into the optical tube.

11. Lastly, install the finder scope in the dual-ring bracket. To do
this, we recommend first removing the two spring-tensioned
alignment screws (the top bolt on each ring) and loosening
the other four so the finder scope can be inserted through
the rings—eyepiece end first—without resistance. The larg­er, objective lens of the finder scope should point in the
same direction as the objective lens of the main telescope.
Now reinsert the two spring-tensioned alignment screws.
Then thread in the other four alignment screws until the
finder scope tube is roughly centered in the rings.

4. Aligning the Finder Scope

Using a low-power finder scope, with its wide field of view,
makes it easy to locate objects for observing through the main
telescope, which has a much narrower field of view. However,
the finder scope and the telescope need to be aligned so they
both point to exactly the same spot in the sky.

1. Alignment is easiest to do in daylight hours. First, loosen the
azimuth and altitude lock knobs and the two yoke knobs so
the telescope can be moved freely. Then insert the lowest­power eyepiece (longest focal length) into the star diagonal.

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2. Point the main telescope at a discrete object such as the
top of a telephone pole or street sign that is at least 200
yards away. Move the telescope so the target object
appears in the very center of the field of view, when you
look into the eyepiece. Now tighten the altitude lock knob
(remember, just “finger tight” so you don’t strip the
threads), and slightly tighten the azimuth and yoke knobs
(so that slight movement is still possible with light pressure
on the telescope tube). Use the altitude micro-motion con­trol knob and slight sideways pressure on the main
telescope tube to re-center the object in the field of view,
if it moved off center when you tightened the lock knobs.

3. Now look through the finder scope. Is the object centered in
the finder scope’s field of view, i.e., on the crosshairs? If not,
hopefully it will be visible somewhere in the field of view, so
that only fine adjustment of the alignment screws will be
needed to center it on the crosshairs. If the object isn’t in the
field of view at all, you’ll have to make coarser adjustments to
the alignment screws to redirect the aim of the finder scope.

4. The two spring-tensioned alignment screws on the finder
scope bracket make alignment of the finder scope very easy.
You don’t need to adjust them, only the other four alignment
screws. By loosening one alignment screw and tightening
another, you change the line of sight of the finder scope.

5. Once the target object is centered on the crosshairs of the
finder scope, look again in the main telescope’s eyepiece
and see if it is still centered there as well. If it isn’t, repeat
the entire process, making sure not to move the main
telescope while adjusting the alignment of the finder
scope.

6. Check the alignment by pointing the main telescope at
another object and centering it in the finder scope. Then
look through the main telescope eyepiece and see if the
object is centered. If it is, your job is done. If it isn’t, make
the necessary adjustments to the finder scope’s alignment
screws until the object is centered in both instruments.

7. Finder scopes often come out of alignment during transport
of the telescope, so check it before each observing session.
One way to minimize any misalignment is to keep the finder
scope bracket tightly fastened to the main telescope.

8. Note that the image seen through the finder scope appears
upside-down. This is normal for astronomical finder scopes.

5. Using Your Telescope

Choosing an Observing Site

When selecting a location for observing, get as far away as pos­sible from direct artificial light such as street lights, porch lights,
and automobile headlights. The glare from these lights will
greatly impair your dark-adapted night vision. Set up on a grass
or dirt surface, not asphalt, because asphalt radiates more heat.
Heat disturbs the surrounding air and degrades the images seen
through the telescope. Avoid viewing over rooftops and chimneys,
as they often have warm air currents rising from them. Similarly,
avoid observing from indoors through an open (or closed) win-

dow, because the temperature difference between the indoor and
outdoor air will cause image blurring and distortion.

It’s best, although perhaps less convenient, to escape the light­polluted city sky in favor of darker country skies. You’ll be amazed at
how many more stars and deep-sky objects are visible in a dark
sky!

Cooling the Telescope

All optical instruments need time to reach “thermal equilibrium.”
The bigger the instrument and the larger the temperature
change, the more time is needed. Allow at least a half-hour for
your telescope to cool to the temperature outdoors. In very cold
climates (below freezing), it is essential to store the telescope as
cold as possible. If it has to adjust to more than a 40° tempera­ture change, allow at least one hour. Make sure you are not
looking over buildings, pavement, or any other source of heat,
which will radiate away at night, causing “heat wave” distur­bances that will distort the image you see through the telescope.

Aiming the Telescope

To aim the telescope, first loosen both the azimuth and altitude lock
knobs, and slightly loosen one of the yoke knobs. Aim the telescope
at the object you wish to observe by first “eyeballing” along the length
of the telescope tube. Then look through the (aligned) finder scope and
move the telescope tube until the object is visible in the finder scope.
Center it on the finder’s crosshairs. Then tighten the lock knobs. You
should now be able to see the object in the main telescope using a
low-power eyepiece. (Always use the lowest-power eyepiece available
for locating an object, then you can switch up to higher powers if
desired.)

Fine adjustments in the telescope’s vertical position can be
made by rotating the altitude micro-motion knob (make sure
the altitude lock knob is tightened first). Fine adjustments in
the azimuth position can be made by applying slight sideways
pressure to the back end of the telescope (make sure the
azimuth lock knob is slightly loosened).

Note: The altitude micro-motion knob has a limited range
of movement. If you reach the end of the travel range,
loosen the altitude lock bolt and rotate the micro-motion
knob back a few turns, then tighten the lock bolt again.

Focusing the Telescope

Practice focusing the telescope in the daytime before using it
for the first time at night. Start by positioning the focuser draw­tube near the center of its adjustment range. Insert an
eyepiece into the star diagonal and secure with the thumb­screw. Point the telescope at a distant subject and get it in the
field of view. Now, slowly rotate one of the focusing knobs until
the object comes into sharp focus. Go a little bit beyond sharp
focus until the image just starts to blur again, then reverse the
rotation of the knob, just to make sure you hit the exact focus
point. The telescope can only focus on objects at least 50 to
100 feet away. It will not focus without the star diagonal in
place.

As with all refractor telescopes used with a standard 90° star
diagonal, the image you see will be right-side up, but reversed left-

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to-right. (Correct-image diagonals are available, and may be
purchased separately, though the image quality is slightly reduced.)

Do You Wear Eyeglasses?

If you wear eyeglasses, you may be able to keep them on while
you observe, if your eyepieces have enough “eye relief” to allow
you to see the whole field of view. You can try this by looking
through the eyepiece first with your glasses on and then with
them off, and see if the glasses restrict the view to only a portion
of the full field. If they do, you can easily observe with your
glasses off by just refocusing the telescope the needed amount.

Eyepiece Selection

Always start viewing with your lowest-power, widest-field eye­piece. After you’ve located and looked at the object with a
low-power eyepiece, switch to a higher-power eyepiece and see
if the object looks better or worse. Keep in mind that at higher
power, an image will always be fainter and less sharp (this is a
fundamental law of optics). Many viewers use the lowest-power
eyepiece practically all the time! Naturally, higher magnifications
are desirable for viewing some celestial objects, but stay with low
powers when searching for an object and for extended viewing.

To calculate the power, or magnification of a telescope, divide the
focal length of the telescope by the focal length of the eyepiece:

Telescope focal length ÷ Eyepiece focal length = Magnification

For example, if you’re using this telescope, which has a focal
length of 800mm, and a 25mm eyepiece, the power would be

800 ÷ 25 = 32x.

We recommend having a selection of several eyepieces of
different focal lengths, so that you can choose the optimal
magnification, brightness level, and contrast for each object
and for different observing conditions.

Useful Limit of Magnification

Every telescope has a useful limit of power of about 45x-60x
per inch of aperture (diameter of objective lens). Claims of
higher power by some telescope manufacturers are a mislead­ing advertising gimmick and should be dismissed. The Observer
60mm Ultra Altazimuth Refractor, with its 60mm-diameter
(2.4") objective lens, is capable of a maximum useful magnifi­cation of about 140x. Any higher and the images will virtually
always appear very faint and fuzzy. As a general rule, if the
image you see is not crisp and steady, reduce the magnifica­tion by switching to a longer-focal-length (lower-power)
eyepiece. A small but well-resolved image will show more detail
and be more rewarding than a dim, fuzzy, over-magnified one.

6. Astronomical Viewing

Let Your Eyes Dark-Adapt

Don’t expect to go from a lighted house into the darkness of
the outdoors at night and immediately see faint nebulas, gal­axies, and star clusters—or even very many stars, for that
matter. Your eyes take about 30 minutes to reach perhaps
80% of their full dark-adapted sensitivity. Many observers
notice improvements after several hours of total darkness. As

your eyes become dark-adapted, more stars will glimmer into
view and you’ll be able to see fainter details in objects you
view in your telescope. Exposing your eyes to very bright
daylight for extended periods of time can adversely affect your
night vision for days. So give yourself at least a little while to
get used to the dark before you begin observing.

To see what you’re doing in the darkness, use a red-filtered
flashlight rather than a white light. Red light does not spoil
your eyes’ dark adaptation like white light does. A flashlight
with a red LED light is ideal, or you can cover the front of a
regular incandescent flashlight with red cellophane or paper.
Beware, too, that nearby porch and street lights and car head­lights will ruin your night vision.

“Seeing” and Transparency

Atmospheric conditions vary significantly from night to night.
“Seeing” refers to the steadiness of the Earth’s atmosphere at
a given time. In conditions of poor seeing, atmospheric turbu­lence causes objects viewed through the telescope to “boil.” If,
when you look up at the sky with just your eyes, the stars are
twinkling noticeably, the seeing is bad and you will be limited
to viewing with low powers (bad seeing affects images at high
powers more severely). Planetary observing may also be poor.
Make sure you are not looking over buildings or any other
source of heat: that will also cause image degradation.

In conditions of good seeing, star twinkling is minimal and
images appear steady in the eyepiece. Seeing is best over­head, worst at the horizon. Also, seeing generally gets better
after midnight, when much of the heat absorbed by the Earth
during the day has radiated off into space.

Especially important for observing faint objects is good “trans­parency”—air free of moisture, smoke, and dust. All tend to
scatter light, which reduces an object’s brightness. Transparency
is judged by the magnitude of the faintest stars you can see with
the unaided eye (6th magnitude or fainter is desirable).

Tracking Celestial Objects

Celestial objects appear to move slowly across the sky
because of the rotation of the Earth on its polar axis. When
you observe an object through the telescope, you’ll see it drift
gradually across the field of view. To keep the object centered
in the field, give the tube a light tug or push in altitude and/or
azimuth as needed (make sure the altitude and azimuth lock
knobs are loosened). Objects will appear to move faster at
higher magnifications, when the field of view is narrower.

How to Find Interesting Celestial Objects

To locate celestial objects with your telescope, you first need to
become reasonably familiar with the night sky. Unless you know
how to recognize the constellation Orion, for instance, you won’t
have much luck locating the Orion Nebula. A simple planisphere,
or star wheel, can be a valuable tool for learning the constella­tions and seeing which ones are visible in the sky on a given
night.

A good star chart or atlas can come in very handy for helping
find objects among the dizzying multitude of stars overhead.
Except for the Moon and the brighter planets, it’s pretty time-

6

consuming and frustrating to hunt for objects randomly,
without knowing where to look. You should have specific tar­gets in mind before you begin looking through the eyepiece.

Start with a basic star atlas, one that shows stars no fainter than
5th or 6th magnitude. In addition to stars, the atlas will show the
positions of a number of interesting deep-sky objects, with dif­ferent symbols representing the different types of objects, such
as galaxies, open star clusters, globular clusters, diffuse nebu­las, and planetary nebulas. So, for example, your atlas might
show that there is a globular cluster sitting just above the lid of
the “Teapot” pattern of stars in Sagittarius. You then know to
point your telescope in that direction to home in on the cluster,
which happens to be 6.9-magnitude Messier 28 (M28).

You can see a great number and variety of astronomical
objects with your Observer 60mm Ultra, including:

The Moon

With its rocky, cratered surface, the Moon is one of the easiest
and most interesting targets to view with your telescope. The
best time to observe our one and only natural satellite is during
a partial phase, that is, when the Moon is NOT full. During
partial phases, shadows on the surface reveal more detail,
especially right along the border between the dark and light
portions of the disk (called the “terminator”). A full Moon is too
bright and devoid of surface shadows to yield a pleasing view.

The Planets

The planets don’t stay put like the stars, so you’ll have to refer
to charts published monthly in Astronomy, Sky & Telescope,
or other astronomy magazines to locate them. Venus, Mars,
Jupiter, and Saturn are the brightest objects in the sky after
the Sun and the Moon. Not all four of these planets are nor­mally visible at any one time.

JUPITER The largest planet, Jupiter, is a great subject to
observe. You can see the disk of the giant planet and watch the
ever-changing positions of its four largest moons, Io, Callisto,
Europa, and Ganymede. If atmospheric conditions are good,
you may be able to resolve thin cloud bands on the planet’s disk.

SATURN The ringed planet is a breathtaking sight when it is
well positioned. The tilt angle of the rings varies over a period
of many years; sometimes they are seen edge-on, while at
other times they are broadside and look like giant “ears” on
each side of Saturn’s disk. A steady atmosphere (good see­ing) is necessary for a good view. You may probably see a tiny,
bright “star” close by; that’s Saturn’s brightest moon, Titan.

VENUS At its brightest, Venus is the most luminous object in
the sky, excluding the Sun and the Moon. It is so bright that
sometimes it is visible to the naked eye during full daylight!
Ironically, Venus appears as a thin crescent, not a full disk,
when at its peak brightness. Because it is so close to the Sun,
it never wanders too far from the morning or evening horizon.
No surface markings can be seen on Venus, which is always
shrouded in dense clouds.

MARS You probably won’t be able to see any surface detail
on the Red Planet, but you will notice its ruddy color.

Stars

Stars will appear like twinkling points of light in the telescope. Even
powerful telescopes cannot magnify stars to appear as more than
points of light! You can, however, enjoy the different colors of the
stars and locate many pretty double and multiple stars. The
famous “Double-Double” in the constellation Lyra and the gor­geous two-color double star Albireo in Cygnus are favorites.
Defocusing the image of a star slightly can help bring out its color.

Deep-Sky Objects

Under dark skies, you can observe a wealth of fascinating deep­sky objects, including gaseous nebulas, open and globular star
clusters, and some of the brighter galaxies. Most deep-sky
objects are very faint, so it is important that you find an observing
site well away from light pollution. Take plenty of time to let your
eyes adjust to the darkness. Don’t expect these subjects to
appear like the photographs you see in books and magazines;
most will look like dim gray smudges. (Our eyes are not sensitive
enough to see color in such faint objects.) But as you become
more experienced and your observing skills get sharper, you will
be able to ferret out more and more subtle details.

Remember that the higher the magnification you use, the dim­mer the image will appear. So stick with low power when
observing deep-sky objects because they’re already very faint.

Consult a star atlas or observing guide for information on find­ing and identifying deep-sky objects. Some good sources to
start with are the Edmund Mag 6 Star Atlas, Turn Left at
Orion, and The Universe From Your Backyard.

7. Terrestrial Viewing

Your Observer 60mm Ultra may also be used for long-dis­tance viewing over land. For this application we recommend
substitution of an Orion 45° Correct-Image Diagonal (hybrid,
#8792) for the 90° star diagonal that comes standard with the
telescope. The correct-image diagonal will yield an upright,
non-reversed image and also provides a more comfortable
viewing angle, since the telescope will be aimed more hori­zontally for terrestrial subjects.

For terrestrial viewing, it’s best to stick with low powers of 50x
or less. At higher power the image loses sharpness and clar­ity because of unsteady air. That’s because when the scope
is pointed near the horizon it’s peering through the thickest
and most turbulent part of the Earth’s atmosphere.

And remember to aim well clear of the Sun, unless the front
of the telescope is fitted with a professionally made solar filter
and the finder scope is covered with foil or some other com­pletely opaque material.

8. Care and Maintenance

If you give your telescope reasonable care, it will last a lifetime.
Store it in a clean, dry, dust-free place, safe from rapid changes
in temperature and humidity. Do not store the telescope out­doors, although storage in a garage or shed is OK. Small
components like eyepieces and other accessories should be

7

kept in a protective box or storage case. Keep the objective lens
cap on when the front of the telescope when it is not in use.

Your Observer 60mm Ultra requires very little mechanical
maintenance. The optical tube is aluminum and has a smooth
painted finish that is fairly scratch-resistant. If a scratch does
appear on the tube, it will not harm the telescope. If you wish,
you may apply some auto touch-up paint to the scratch.
Smudges on the tube can be wiped off with a soft cloth and a
household cleaner such as Windex or Formula 409.

Cleaning the Optics

A small amount of dust or a few specks on the glass objective
(main) lens will not affect the performance of the telescope. If
dust builds up, however, simply blow it off with a blower bulb,
or lightly brush it off with a soft camel-hair brush. Avoid touch­ing optical surfaces with your fingers, as skin oil may etch
optical coatings.

To remove fingerprints or smudges from a lens, use photo­graphic-type lens cleaning fluid and lint-free optical lens
cleaning tissue. Don’t use household cleaners or eyeglass­type cleaning cloth or wipes, as they often contain undesirable
additives like silicone, which don’t work well on precision
optics. Place a few drops of fluid on the tissue (not directly on
the lens), wipe gently, then remove the fluid with a dry tissue
or two. Do not “polish” or rub hard when cleaning the lens, as

this will scratch it. The tissue may leave fibers on the lens, but
this is not a problem; they can be blown off with a blower bulb.

Never disassemble the telescope or eyepieces to clean opti­cal surfaces!

If you follow these simple instructions, your Orion Observer
60mm Ultra Altazimuth Refractor will provide you with years
of enjoyable exploration.

9. Specifications

Objective lens: 60mm-diameter (2.4") achromat, magnesium
fluoride-coated

Focal length: 800mm

Focal ratio: f/13.3

Magnification: 32x with 25mm eyepiece, 89x with 9mm eye­piece

Finder scope: 6x magnification, 30mm aperture, achromat

Diagonal: 90° star diagonal, prism type, hybrid .965"/1.25"

Eyepiece type: Kellner (three-element), fully coated, 1.25"
barrel diameter

Mount type: Altazimuth

One-Year Limited Warranty

This Orion Observer 60mm Ultra Altazimuth Refractor is warranted against defects in materials or
workmanship for a period of one year from the date of purchase. This warranty is for the benefit of
the original retail purchaser only. During this warranty period Orion Telescopes & Binoculars will
repair or replace, at Orion’s option, any warranted instrument that proves to be defective, provided
it is returned postage paid to: Orion Warranty Repair, 89 Hangar Way, Watsonville, CA 95076. If the
product is not registered, proof of purchase (such as a copy of the original invoice) is required.

This warranty does not apply if, in Orion’s judgment, the instrument has been abused, mishandled,
or modified, nor does it apply to normal wear and tear. This warranty gives you specific legal rights,
and you may also have other rights, which vary from state to state. For further warranty service
information, contact: Customer Service Department, Orion Telescopes & Binoculars, P. O. Box 1815,
Santa Cruz, CA 95061; [phone].

Orion Telescopes & Binoculars

Post Office Box 1815, Santa Cruz, CA 95061

Customer Support Help Line [phone] • Day or Evening