A V O I D S C R A T C H I N G T H E H I G H G R A D E F I N I S H
To clean the surface use a soft lint free cloth such as a duster – do not use
tissue paper or kitchen towel as these are mildly abrasive – the surface finish
takes approx 2 weeks to reach full hardness.
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Introduction (read carefully)
Congratulations on choosing your Origin Live turntable. You now have one of the finest sounding turntables available – not only
will it provide an extraordinary level of performance but also reliability and low maintenance.
It is critical that these instructions are read fully to achieve optimum performance from your turntable. There are aspects of
the deck that run contrary to what you may expect, so before altering anything it is important to fully read the manual or
degradation will result.
The Resolution turntable is simple to set up. If you have a problem please refer to the instructions. If your problem persists you
should speak to your dealer or refer to Origin Live technical support at web site address - ‘www.originlive.com’ under “general
information” then ‘technical support’ from the drop down list.
The instructions are written for people with no previous experience of turntables. Some sections may therefore appear lengthy,
as they need to cater for all potential questions. When reading the instructions refer to the various diagrams for part names and
clarity. The body text in grey is of secondary importance and can be read later if you can’t wait to get your deck up and running.
The deck can take approximately 15 minutes to set up depending on your expertise. The dc regulator electronics may initially
encounter speed drift when first started (if they have not been run in). You may need at least 4 hours to run in before the speed
can finally be set with accuracy.
We wish you an enjoyable time with your Resolution turntable.
Parts list
Plinth & gloves
Turntable bag
o Belt
o 1 cable clip and attachment screw - (may be on plinth)
o Oil bottle
o 3mm Allen key & 2.5 mm Allen key
o Spring seat, 1 rubber washer, serrated washer & spring
o 3 cork discs for levelling if necessary
Platter
Sub-platter
Sub-chassis
DC100 motor in Motor pod
Control box
Transformer for 230 volt or 110 volt mains supply
Arm (optional), alignment gauge, but no arm instruction sheets as included in deck instructions
P A P E R W O R K
Turntable instructions & strobe card
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Turntable set up
When you unpack the deck, check that you have all items listed in the parts list.
S E T T I N G U P T H E P L I N T H
The spring bolt assembly is fitted as shown in the diagram below (without the serrated washer, spring seat and spring). Fit the serrated washer,
spring seat and spring over the bolt as shown below – the bottom threaded spring adjuster (not needed on latest models of Resolution)
should be rotated anti-clockwise until it moves upward sufficiently to clear and no longer touch the plinth – this important as it reduces
vibration transmitted to the spring.
PHOTO 1
Note bottom height spring adjuster is not required with newer top spring adjusters - performance is not affected with either
version.
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I N S T A L L S U B - C H A S S I S & M O T O R P O D
Photo showing sub-chassis & part names
PHOTO 2
N O T E S :
You may think some bolts on the sub-chassis assembly are loose - they are deliberately set like this at factory - do not adjust them
or performance can be dramaticaly degraded.
Before fitting the sub-chassis examine the top spring adjuster to get an idea of how it works and the extent of it’s adjustment. Remove the
top spring adjuster by unscrewing it completely. You must not allow this to happen once the sub-chassis is set up or the sub-chassis will drop.
Removing the adjuster shows how much thread you have to play with. Refit the top spring adjuster by threading it back into the connector
ring.
T R O U B L E SH O O T I N G N O T E S O N T HE S U B - C H A S SI S ( O P T I ON A L R E A D I N G)
1. The sub-chassis is attached to the “spring plate” by one “pivot bolt” – the two plates should be free to swivel and are loosely
restrained by an “anti-rotate bolt” – this locating bolt should be left alone. The pivot bolt is tightened at factory and should not be
adjusted or performance will degrade significantly.
2. If the correct tension on the pivot bolt is lost for any reason, then the correct tension is such that the spring plate can rotate
minutely but freely in relation to the sub-chassis plate but has minimal “rocking” motion in the vertical plane.
3. The “anti rotate” bolt is tight on the spring plate but has minimal contact with the sub-chassis.
4. If for any reason, tension is lost on any of the other bolts, they should be just “nipped” tight by 1/8 of a turn from the point
where you can just turn the bolt & nut freely in it’s hole – any tighter than this and performance is degraded.
PHOTO 3
Place the motor pod in position at the rear of the plinth – You will need to lift the plinth over the pod to get it in position. Arrange the
plinth in it’s final resting place to get the motor pod position correct. The motor pod should be located approx in the centre of the circular
cut out of the plinth.
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PHOTO 4
Place the sub-chassis on the plinth over the spring as shown in the photo above. The small plastic locating pins on the underside of
the two black plastic pods locate in the small holes on the plinth as labelled in Photo 3. DO NOT TIGHTEN THE BOLTS IN THE
PLASTIC PODS - they are set to be loose deliberately - if they are tightened sound degradation will result.
When placing the sub-chassis on the plinth, the spring must be located centrally in the top spring adjuster. If the spring is not located
properly it will not be possible to level the turntable correctly.
F I T T H E T O N E A R M
Insert your tonearm into the metal sleeve located in the circular arm mounting plate (armboard). You can set the arm to the correct height
using the setscrew located in the arm board as shown in the photo below. This setscrew clamps the sleeve onto the arm board.
It doesn’t matter whether you slide the metal sleeve up and down in the arm board to get the right height or slide the threaded arm base in
the sleeve. Both methods work fine. Note that you should NOT clamp the sleeve hard when there is no arm fitted inside. If you do this,
then permanent deformation can result – the slightest of “nips” is all that is necessary before the arm is fitted. Do not fit the large arm base
nut, or any of the washers. To obtain accurate VTA setting you can mark the sleeve with pencil lines to keep track of trial positions.
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F I T T H E A R M C A B L E C L I P
Fasten the arm cable to the underside of the plinth near the rear foot using the P-clip and screw provided. Leave a slight droop in the cable
between the arm and the cable clip so that it isn’t “tight”. The cable clip is important for best performance as it “earths” vibration in the arm.
If your arm has an earth lead then it should be connected to the earth of your pre-amplifier or amplifier. The earth lead is best separated
slightly from the arm signal leads so do not wind it around them for best performance. Avoid pulling the external arm wires as they are not
indestructible and can become detached if excessive force is used to manipulate them.
F I T T H E S U B - P L A T T E R & P L A T T E R
With the bottle supplied, run approx 5 drops of oil into the top of the bearing house.
Wipe the sub-platter spindle surface to ensure that it is absolutely clean and very gently insert the sub-platter into the bearing
house (If the oil does not overflow when the spindle touches the bottom then try 2 drops at a time till you just achieve overflow
- wipe away excess oil) and then place the platter on top.
NOTE:
The bearing needs a few minutes to “run in” and should run silent when truly vertical and full of oil - if it doesn’t do so, there has
probably been contamination with dust and you will need to clean it out with a lint free paper towel or similar wrapped around a
thin rod. If you do this, be sure to also wipe the oil off the spindle as this also may contain microscopic contamination that is not
visible.
Fit the belt over the motor pulley and sub-platter.
Set the belt tension by positioning the motor pod relative to the turntable. You will find that the sub-chassis can rotate very slightly on the
plinth – rotate it so that the bearing moves towards the motor pod. The centre of the motor pulley should be approx 122mm to 125 mm
to the centre of the bearing house but this can vary depending on belt length variations.
N O T E :
It is common for people to set the belt tension too tight, which can slightly degrade performance. The optimum setting is where there is
enough tension to turn the platter without audible wow and flutter but no more. This may take some experimentation.
It also aids performance to clean the belt and all the running surfaces with mentholated or surgical spirit.
Finally ensure that the motor pod is not touching the plinth.
F I T & L E V E L T H E P L A T T E R
Top and bottom spring adjusters are provided on some sub-chassis for versatility but the new top spring adjuster shown in photo 2 does not
need a bottom spring adjuster and so it is ommited.
Try to initially level the sub-chassis by rotating the top spring adjuster. The plastic pods play no part in the levelling process. Note: both top
and bottom spring height adjusters work by rotating them – you can use these, either in combination or one at a time to achieve level. It
doesn’t matter which you use, providing the spring support bolt does not “bottom” inside the top spring adjuster. Remember not to let the
bottom spring adjuster touch the plinth.Check that the platter is level – if it is not, then level it by levelling the table or surface that the deck
stands on. If this is not possible then use a combination of the spring height adjuster and small cork disc(s) placed under one of the feet of
the deck. This may not seem the most elegant solution but threaded feet adjusters sacrifice sound quality significantly.
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