Optima Baron, Low Baron, Cobra, Dingo, Dolphin User Manual

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Recumbent Bicycle
User’s Manual
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First published 2002
All Rights reserved, 2002
All images and text
Optima V.O.F.
We would like to extend special thanks to
Tim Biesemans, Mark Scherpenzeel and countless
other Optima customers whose many photos helped to
decorate the pages of this manual.
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Congratulations and thank you, for buying an Optima!
About this manual
Why You Should Read This Manual
This manual was written to help you get the best of performance, comfort, enjoyment and safety from your new Optima.
Whether you bought your Optima for running errands, commuting to work or recreation and exercise, we welcome you to the effortless, comfortable
and fast world of
recumbent bicycling!
Before taking your bike out for a ride, we ask that you read this brochure
fully – we know you’re itching to go!
We would like to express many thanks to our customers who supplied
many of the photos included in this manual.
We hope that this manual will help you to enjoy your bicycle for many
years to come.
Caution! Whenever you see a grey box, be sure to read it carefully. These boxes hold warnings and tips, some crucial to the function or safety of your bicycle.
It is crucial that you fully understand your new recumbent bike; its features, characteristics and operation, so that you get maximum enjoyment combined with maximum safety starting with the rst ride. By reading this manual before you go out on your rst ride, you’ll know how to get the most from your new Optima.
It is also important that your rst ride on a new bicycle is taken in a controlled environment, away from cars, obstacles and other cyclists. This is especially important for individuals who are not yet experienced in recumbent cycling, or for individuals riding a low slung recumbent bicycle for the rst time. Do not overestimate your skills and potential. Riding an unknown bike can lead to dangerous situations.
Optima strongly discourages riding your bicycle before reading the entire manual.
Warning! Bicycling can be a dangerous activity even in
‘optimal’ conditions. Proper maintenance of your recumbent
is your responsibility and it helps reduce the risk of injury
to yourself and others. This manual contains many Tips,
Warnings and Cautions which focus on important aspects
of your bicycle, its components and safe cycling. Many of
the Warnings and Cautions include text advising you of the
dangers which could “Lead to serious injury and damage to
your bicycle”. Whenever any Warning! Or Caution! Boxes appear, keep in mind that the following text is absent but applicable in all
cases:
Failure to follow this guideline could lead to a fall, damage to
your bicycle , serious injury and even to death.
We do not repeat this phrase everywhere because it would
give our manual a negative overtone. We all know how
much standard bicycle manufacturers warn you of the
dangers of cycling right? Keep in mind that this is true for a
recumbent, and that you have a reduced prole compared to
normal cyclists. Basically, be careful to ride with your head,
as well as your helmet, securely ON!
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To the experienced Cyclist.
So you’ve been riding a bike all your life, know all the tips and tricks… you really don’t need to read this manual, right?
WRONG.
Even if you’ve been riding a bike all your life, buying and riding a recumbent for the rst time should be accompanied by an renewal of your cycling habits, knowledge and assumptions. Why? Because bicycles are going through some pretty dramatic changes in the technology which affects function, handing, comfort, performance and safety. A big example – the difference between a standard upright bike and a recumbent! Please read this manual.
A point of attention for parents
It is a sobering fact that many cycling accidents involve children. Make sure that your child always wears an approved bicycle helmet when riding. It is the responsibility
of a parent or guardian to ensure the safety of their child. This means that it is the parent or guardian’s responsibility to ensure that their child can operate the bicycle, that it ts the child properly and that it is well maintained. It is also your job to ensure your child is educated in the laws of the road, common sense and trafc awareness, and wears sufcient protective apparel. We strongly advise you read this manual if it is the manual of your child’s bicycle.
GENERAL
SAFETY APPAREL 1
HELMETS 1 EYEWEAR 1 REFLECTORS 2 LIGHTS 2 MIRRORS 2
SUPPORT AND UPGRADING. 3
RESPONSIBLE CYCLING 4
GENERAL SAFETY MEASURES 4 WET WEATHER AND NIGHT TIME CYCLING 4
YOUR OPTIMA BICYCLE 5
SETTING UP YOUR BICYCLE 6
ASSEMBLING FROM THE BOX 6
1. INSTALLING THE WHEELS. 6
2. INSTALLING LINKAGE FRONT STEERING SYSTEMS 8
3. RIDER FRONT WHEEL ALIGNMENT 9
4. BRAKE ADJUSTMENT & BLEEDING 12
5. MOUNTING MUDGUARDS 13
6. FITTING THE SEAT AND RACK. 14
7. INSTALLING THE PEDALS 15
8. INSTALLING THE PEDAL BOOM 15
9. INSTALLING THE FRONT DERAILLEUR AND CABLES 16
10. TIRES AND CORRECT TIRE PRESSURE. 16
11. HANDLEBARS 16
12. SUSPENSION 17
13. CHAIN LINE AND PULLEYS 18
14. BRAKES. 19
15. MOUNTING THE AERODYNAMIC COWLING (BARON OPTION ONLY) 19
RIDING A RECUMBENT BICYCLE 22
BEFORE YOU RIDE 22 SHORT PRE-RIDE CHECKLIST. 22
THE FIRST RIDE 24
TRAVELLING ON YOUR RECUMBENT 25 COMFORT AND QUALITY ACCESSORIES FOR YOUR RECUMBENT 25
MAINTENANCE 27
RECOMMENDED PERIODIC MAINTENANCE 28
EACH TIME YOU RIDE 28 WEEKLY 28
QUARTERLY CHECKLIST. 28 TOOLS FOR MAINTENANCE 30
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SERVICE TIPS 31
ADJUSTMENT OF THE HUBS. 31 HEADSET AND FRONT FORKS. 31 SPOKE TENSION 31 BOTTOM BRACKET AND CRANK 31 GEARS 31
STORAGE TIPS 32
TROUBLESHOOTING. 32
SUSPENSION WHEELS AND TIRES HUBS CRANKS AND BOTTOM BRACKET BRAKING DERAILLEURS, CHAIN ROLLERS AND REAR CASSETTE MISCELLANEOUS FORKS AND HEADSET PEDALS
OPTIMA BICYCLE MODELS 39 PERMITTED BICYCLE USAGE 40
RESOURCES 41
OPTIMA FACTORY 41 ACCESSORY LIST 41
WARRANTY 42
TERMS AND CONDITIONS OF GUARANTEE. 43 SERVICE RECORDS 45 WARRANTY FORM 51
General
Safety apparel
Many nations around the world, and their internal states, have strict requirements regarding safety devices and their use in cycling. It is your soul responsibility to nd out what these requirements are, in each and every state or nation you cycle and then follow them.
Helmets
‘If you don’t need a head, you don’t need a helmet’.
While not all nations and states require cyclists to wear approved protective headgear, we at Optima strongly advise you to do so. Try to nd a helmet which complies to Snell, ANSI and government safety requirements. Simple amoebic intelligence states that it is best to wear a helmet (passed by these authorities) whilst cycling, whether the law requires it or not.
Many serious and fatal bicycle injuries could have been either reduced or avoided had the cyclist been wearing a properly certied helmet. Your local bike store should have a range of, or at least be able to order, helmets which suit your needs.
Caution! A correct helmet should t properly, and be fastened
securely according to the instructions of its manufacturer. A
good helmet will protect according to Snell, AISI or stringent
government regulations. Failure to wear a good helmet correctly
could lead to serious injuries or even death, which may have
otherwise been avoided.
For more information on helmets, please contact your dealer or a local bike store, they will be happy to supply you with a helmet.
Eyewear
Any cycling involves airborne bugs, dirt and other objects that are just waiting to get at your eyes. Higher speeds can also make ones’ eyes water and impair your vision. For this reason we advise you wear sufcient eye protection, in the form of a quality set of glasses in all conditions. Most sports and bicycle stores sell protective and fashionable eyewear.
Tip! To increase your vision in all weather conditions,
we suggest you buy a good pair of sports glasses, with
interchangeable lenses in at least one dark colored lens and at
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least one amber, clear or yellow lens.
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Reectors
Reectors are important safety features, which are an integral part of your bicycle. Most authorities worldwide require bicycles to be tted with front, rear, wheel and pedal reectors. The requirements of these reectors should be able to be found through your local government. Reectors are designed to use other light sources – car headlights, street lights and the such to increase your visibility to other road users.
Caution! Check your reectors are securely fastened to your bike regularly. Clean your reectors often, as mud and grime picked up
will limit the amount of light that can enter and exit the reector,
reducing its effectiveness. Do not allow baggage or yourself to
conceal or cover a reector.
Do not remove any reector from your bicycle
Lights
If you ride your recumbent during or before dawn and dusk it must be equipped with a lighting system approved by the local government. It is also prudent and advised to install a lighting system if you ride during bad weather conditions as well. Your local bike store or Optima dealer should be able to supply you with a good lighting set and advise you as to the best choices.
Warning! A good lighting system can never be substituted
for by reectors. It is your own responsibility to ensure your
bicycle is equipped with an acceptable lighting system, which
complies to the guidelines set up by your local authority. Failure
to follow this guideline may result in dangerous and fatal trafc
Battery lighting systems have the potential to be much more powerful than generator systems, but they weigh more and have a limited battery life. Their constant illumination is an advantage for the urban evening commuter, who remains visible all the time.
Caution! Be sure to install a WHITE front light and a RED rear
light on your bicycle. Failure to do so may violate local trafc
laws and will denitely compromise your safety.
situations.
Support and upgrading.
Although we strive to build ever higher quality products, your recumbent is not indestructible and at some point something is bound to fail. With the constantly change and development of the array of components available for bicycles, it is inevitable that at some point you will want or have to replace a part or install a new one.
Caution! Replacing, changing and upgrading the componentry
on your recumbent may have an effect on the bicycles warranty.
To avoid any unpleasant surprises, consult your Optima dealer
before making any changes to the original equipment of the
manufacturer. (OEM)
If you do not have your new component installed by a professional and approved Optima mechanic, then make sure to fully read the instructions of the new component and carefully follow the manufacturer’s installation procedure. Also make sure to conrm that the new part is completely compatible with your bicycle and its current (OEM) setup. Just because you have the ‘mechanical touch’ does not mean that you will know everything about a new component, especially if it is a new type of an existing product, or a completely new idea.
A popular upgrade nowadays is the installation of suspended forks. Finding a suitable suspended fork for a 20 inch front wheel can be a tricky process, and we advise you contact your dealer or Optima before making any decisions for their advice. Keep in mind that installing suspension forks will change the geometry of your bicycle and in turn, your recumbent’s riding characteristics.
Another popular upgrade is to install disk brakes. Realize that in installing a disk brake, you are loading the bicycle’s forks differently and you may be reducing their service life. The extra braking power provided by disk brakes also increases the loading on the frame.
If at any point you are worried about compatability and specic components or have any other questions, contact your dealer and they will be able to help you. Your dealer is there to help you in making decisions and provide you with the help of somebody whose profession it is to know everything there is to know about these bikes and parts. Asking his opinion will allow you to get the best out of your bike, and avoid unpleasant surprises after buying a component.
Generator lighting systems will never run out of power, but require the cyclist to be moving for the lights to function. These systems are generally lighter than battery powered lights, but the more powerful you want them to be, the more rolling resistance the system will produce. Generators can be housed in the standard tire rollers, or in the front hub.
Mirrors
Looking behind you on a recumbent bicycle is trickier than doing so on a standard bike. For this reason Optima strongly recommends that you install at least one rear view mirror, preferably on the left hand side of your bicycle for countries where trafc drives on the right, and the right for countries where you drive on the left.
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Responsible cycling
Recumbent cycling, like all other sports has its thrills and exhilarations, but also its dangers. A cyclist is in control of his or her own vehicle, and his safety is primarily in his or her own hands. Dangerous or unusual situations should be met with cautious behavior and preventative measures from the cyclist him or herself - the rst of which is to slow down. Both Optima and the local government cannot therefore be held accountable for your mistakes or misjudgements.
General safety Measures
Caution! Be sure to follow these guidelines to ensure your own safety.
· Always perform the pre ride checklist on page 18 before every ride
· Wear your helmet whenever you are on your bicycle
· Take care not to let the wheels, chainrings, chain, cables and other bicycle parts injure you
· Recumbent pedals are higher than those of a normal bike, and are in a position that your feet do not fall naturally, as they are on a standard bicycle. For this reason always wear appropriate, fully closed shoes and buy a pair of ‘clipless’ pedals, to keep your feet on the pedals. Do not use pedal straps.
· Know your bike and its controls.
· Control your speed. Speed is dangerous to you and strenuous to your bike.
· Stay rmly on the ground. Jumping a normal bicycle can be dangerous, but at least on a normal bike you can move about to facilitate a safe landing. On recumbent bicycles this is not the case. Do not jump whilst riding your bicycle.
· Wear highly visible clothing. Low swung recumbents, above all, should be ridden wearing bright and visible colors to increase your chances of other road users seeing you.
· Ride as if you were invisible. Keep an eye on what is going on in the trafc around you. The best way to avoid a collision is obviously to see it coming beforehand.
· Never overtake in a corner. Never. Because you are so low, its likley that Vehicle drivers will not to see you and will drive you off the road or into the gutter. (this hurts!)
Your Optima Bicycle
1. Seat
2. Upper adjustable seat xture and upper rack xture
3. Lower rack xture
4. Lower seat xture
5. Handlebars
6. Gear shifting levers (can vary in position)
7. Stem
8. Brake levers
9. Bike computer mount
10. Pedal extension tube & fastening bolts
11.
Front derailleur post
12. Front derailleur mounting sheath
13. Bottom bracket
14. Crankset
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15. Light xture (obscured by chainwheels in photo)
16. Front chainwheels
17. Headset and Headtube
18. Front brake (rim brake)
19. Front (suspension) Forks
20. Hub
21. Wheel rim
22. Tire
24. Location of front disk brake xture on the left side of bike (not on all forks)
25. Valve stem
26. Mudguards
27. Rear suspension pivot point
28. Chain roller
29. Lower adjustable rear shock mount
30. Rear brake (rim brake)
31. Wheel dropouts
32. Rear derailleur
33. Rear cog cassette / Freewheel
34. Reector
35 Optima baggage rack
36. Chain
37. Rear shock absorber
38. Location of light generator xture, left side. ( Not on ‘Baron’, ‘Stinger’ or ‘Cobra’ )
39. Location of rear disk brake xture, on left side of bicycle.
Wet weather and night time cycling
Slow down in the rain and increase the distance between you and your fellow road users. Avoid busy or dangerous roads. Realize you can be partially hidden in the spray following vehicles. If you have lights, we suggest you turn them on in the rain. Ride in a restrained fashion. Brake earlier, and more gently than when it is dry.
We strongly suggest you buy bright, reective cycling clothes for bad weather or night riding. We also suggest you stick to routes you already know when conditions are bad, this way you will have a better idea of what to expect. Keep this in mind when riding in the rain.
Caution! Precipitation signicantly increases your chances
of being involved in an accident. Wet weather reduces the
traction your bicycle has to the ground, it negatively effects
braking performance and it reduces visibility. These things happen to you on your bicycle, and to all other road users.
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Warning! Do not ride a bicycle that shows any sign of
malfunction or damage. Take your recumbent to a bicycle store
and do not ride the bike until the problem is xed.
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For parts found only on linkage steering models, please see gure 9.1. For parts found only on
the ‘Rider’ please see gures 10.1 and 12.1
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Setting up your Bicycle
Now that you have opened the box and unpacked your new bike – How do you get this thing working?! Please follow the instructions and suggestions given in this chapter carefully, to ensure you can start off your recumbent cycling addiction safely and securely.
Assembling from the Box
Your bike will arrive partially or fully assembled, depending on where you live. Now all you need to do is follow the following steps in the order written, and you’ll be riding your recumbent in no time! Some steps will only apply to certain models, in which case this will be clearly stated.
1. Installing the wheels.
For ease in construction and accessibility it is best to start by mounting the wheels. Optima bikes come with either bolt on or quick release wheel fastenings, depending on the model and specications.
The rear wheel is fastened using a quick release lever for standard hubs and bolts for SRAM’s dual drive or 3x7 derailleur/hub gear systems. When removing or replacing any rear wheel, make sure the chain is fed properly around the cogs on the wheel, as seen in gure 6.1.
Quick release fastening allow for fast installation and removal of the wheels. Properly fastened quick release wheels are in no way less safe than bolted wheels.
To install the wheel, simply pull the lever on the wheel outward to the unlocked position (g 6.3). After unlocking the mechanism, feed the wheel into the forks or the frame. Ensure that the wheel is fully inserted in the frame, to prevent the brakes dragging on the rim or disk. If the brakes drag when the wheel is properly inserted, readjust the brakes. Now press the lever to the closed position, as seen in gure
6.2. (The nut on the opposite side to the lever may need to be tightened or loosened to allow for the closure of the lever to clamp the forks properly). To remove the wheel, unlock the wheel by pulling the lever. You may need to unscrew the bolt on the opposite side slightly to get the quick release skewer past safety knobs on the dropouts. If you are not already experienced in the use of quick release skewers, see the manufacturer’s procedures in the enclosed information package for proper use. Otherwise ask the sales representative or a local bicycle store for assistance.
Warning! An improperly fastened quick release lever could lead
to the dislodging of the wheel during braking, leading to serious
injury and damage to your bicycle.
3x7 derailleur and hub gear system Installation and removal.
To install (or remove) the rear 3x7 wheel, rst put the left handlebar shifter to the lowest gear (position on the grip 1). Feed the wheel into the frame ensuring that the cog cassette is on the right hand side of the wheel, the same side as the rear derailleur. Now bolt the wheel to the frame, using a 15 mm metric spanner. Once the wheel has been fastened, feed the shifting linkage chain into the gear shifting roller and slide the shifting roller onto the hub axle stub (g 7.1). You will hear and feel a positive click when it is properly engaged. Now track the link chain around the roller.
The next step is to connect the shifting chains threaded stub with the shifting cable connection unit. This is done easily, by simply feeding the stub into the unit, as seen in images 7.2 and 7.3. Feed the connector unit onto the stub to the point at which most of the slack is gone from the shifting cable and release the block. Now check that the handlebar shifter units can engage all three gears. If the top gear cannot be engaged, you will need to loosen the connector unit and allow a little more slack in the cable.
To move or remove the connection unit from the shifting chain stub you will need to pinch the unit at it’s end, pressing the small square plate of brass in to release the ratchets which prevent the unit from slipping (see g 7.2) To clamp the unit to the stub again, simply release the button
Dual Drive derailleur and hub shifting system wheel installation and removal.
The hub will need to be bolted onto the frame using a 15mm spanner. Once bolted on you can install the gear shifting linkage unit.
Start by putting the thumb lever on the handlebar shifting unit to the leftmost setting, with one dot. When you look at the hub connection unit, the yellow indicator in the small window should be as close to the axle hole as possible, (g.7.5). Next, you will need to press the black shaft sticking out of the top of the connection unit in fully so that it sticks out of the bottom of the unit. This will not be possible if the thumb shifter is not in position 1.
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Once you have done this, feed the unit onto the protruding hub axle stub on the right, derailleur hand side of the bike. Once you cannot push the unit any further, reach your nger underneath the unit and push the shaft back up as seen in gure 7.6. If the shaft will not move, remove and ip over the unit and push the black lever inside the unit down towards the unit’s base (as seen in g 8.1) and try again. It should now work.
Warning! Make sure that the gears work properly before
riding your bicycle. Badly adjusted gears could lead to the chain
skipping or jumping off the cogs resulting in frame and spoke
damage, and potentially dangerous trafc situations.
2. Installing linkage front steering systems 10.4
Setting up the steering linkage (All 2 and 3 wheel linkage steering models)
You will now need to connect the master to slave steering linkage. This may have already been done, depending on where you live. You may however need to disconnect and connect the linkage at some time anyway. To disconnect the linkage, pull the safety pin off the shaft (gs 8.2 and 8.3) and pull it out of the hole at the foot of the socket and shaft (g 10.4). To (re)connect the linkage, make sure the safety pin is removed. Then push the linkage’s socket onto the slave joint ball (seen bare in g 10.5) Once the socket is correctly around the ball joint, you will be able to slide the safety pin back into the socket’s ange (g 10.7). If the pin will not go in, the socket is not properly on the ball joint. This may require some force. If you cannot do it by hand, give the socket moderated a tap with a rubber mallet to connect the joint properly. Once properly on the ball joint, (Fig 8.7) replace the safety pin and clip it fully over the linkage shaft, and it will snap itself closed. For instructions on aligning the steering system, please go to the next page, and read the section entitled ‘Aligning linkage steering systems’.
3. Rider Front wheel alignment and installation
All export models of the ‘Rider’ are delivered without the front wheels fully assembled. Please follow these instructions carefully to ensure you install the wheels properly. Failure to do so may result in hub damage, breaking malfunction and serious resultant injuries.
Assemble the wheel to the frame, in the order depicted in gure 9.1, with the braking slave unit on the front side of the hub as in g 9.2. The brakes will have been aligned befor e shi pp in g so all you ne ed to do is mou n t th e wheel as shown in g 9.2 and fasten the axle bolt tightly. If the wheel bolt is not sufciently tightened, the brakes will drag and the wheel may work itself loose. While screwing the hubs in, gently squeeze the brake levers a few times, to ensure that the hub shells are well centred. If one or both of the brakes drag, you will need to adjust them. This should not be necessary for the rst assembly. To see how to adjust the brakes, see section 4 on page 12, brake
adjustment & bleeding.
Fig
9.2, rider
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Measuring up front wheels (‘Rider’ only)
The front wheels should have been properly aligned on the factory oor, but will need periodic adjustment. To adjust the rider’s wheels, begin by making sure that neither of the front wheels has any buckling in it. Buckling will bring error into the necessary measurements and will result in a relatively large error in the setup. Also ensure all steering plates are securely fastened. Once the rims have been made true, point them straight ahead and measure the distance between the leading edge of the inner side of the brake rim on both wheels (L.E., gure 10.1), and the distance between the trailing edge (T.E.) of each inner side of both rims across the bicycle. Take the average of these measurements, subtract 2 mm, and this will be your guideline2. Once you have taken these measurements, cut one length of wood or string (preferably wood) to the length you have just dened. Once you have cut it, nd the half way point on the beam or string and mark this point clearly. Be sure to do this accurately! Now that you have got all of the necessary measurements, you can start the alignment process.
Aligning linkage steering systems.
The rst step is to ensure that the steering master block (A, gure10.1 and 11.2 – present on all linkage steering models) is parallel to the central slave steering block (C, or the front fork) . See gure 12.1 for an example. Do this by using a 50cm (20 inch) ruler, or any object you know to be perfectly straight of similar length. Remove the integrated lower seat xture and chain guide3 to get an unobstructed line between the two steering elements. Now get your ruler and hold it along the side of the master and central slave steering blocks as seen in gure 11.2. For forks, allign the wheel with the master block. If the slave block or fork points to the right when the master block is straight (gure 10.2), you will need to shorten the linkage bar. If the steering block points to the left (gure 10.3, you will need to lengthen the linkage bar. Do this by loosening the locknut (g 11.2, G), then loosening the head socket of the linkage (g 11.2, F) from it’s plate and screwing it in or out to adjust the length of the linkage. Retighten the locknut once you have the linkage at the correct length.
Once the two steering blocks are in line, you will need to adjust the slave to wheel linkage bars (E, g 10.1). This process requires that the handlebar be pointed straight ahead, and remain that way until the process is nished. Failure to do so will result in your wheels not being properly in line. You will now need to use the wooden beam or string length you just cut and prepared. Remove the pedal boom from the frame, as you will need to use the cut in the bottom of the frame where the boom fastening bolts are to align the wheels precisely, using the half way mark you made on your balancing beam or string. Hold the alignment beam or string perfectly
hor izontal with i t’s center p oint a t the groove (see g. 11.1) Using this groove as a guide, align each wheel individually by undoing one end of the steering linkage bar, undoing the safety locknut on the free end and moving the end socket in or out by twisting it on its thread. Align the wheel by replacing the socket in the wheel’s steering plate to check whether the center point lines
up with the frame when in contact with the inner surface of the rim. Once you have aligned both wheels, check that the handlebar is still pointing straight ahead. The alignment beam or string should now just touch both rims, when it’s center point is at the groove in the frame, as seen in g. 11.1.
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3
Part numbers 4 & 28, Figure 5.1 ‘Your optima Bicycle’
Fig 10.3
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4. Brake adjustment & bleeding
All brakes wear with time and temperature variations can sometimes lead to the necessity to adjust the brakes. Most braking systems on Optima bicycles come with a separate manufacturer’s information package containing a complete instruction manual. Please refer to these manuals to set up and adjust your brakes.
‘Rider’ hub brakes
There are three main ways of adjusting the brakes: by the bolts holding the slave piston, by the adjustment on the slave piston and via a small Allen key on the brake lever.
5. Mounting mudguards
A) Hub inner shell B) Hub ange C) Bike / Wheel xture block D) Brake actuation lever E) Hydraulic slave unit F) Slave unit adjustment holes
To make any major adjustments to the brakes on the two front wheels, move the upper xing bolt on the brake slave unit (E, g. 12.1) up or down on the adjustment holes on the braking torque arm (F). If the brakes are only slightly out of adjustment, you can make small adjustments by pulling the rubber boot on the under side of the slave cylinder down off the ridge on the cylinder body. This will reveal a notched surface on the slave piston (K, g 12.1) which can be adjusted with a 8mm spanner. Turn it clockwise whilst looking down the body of the cylinder to the piston to tighten the brakes and counter clockwise to loosen them.
If at any point you remove the Braking torque and steering arm (I, g. 12.1) you will need to replace it as follows. First, mount the hub on the bike/wheel xture block (I, g 9.1) making sure that the inner hub spacer (F, 9.1) and the hub inner shell (E, 9.1 and A, 12.1) are well centered on the bike/wheel xture block. Once you have screwed the hub in reasonably rmly, Tighten the Steering arm base bolt (G, 12.1) slightly, followed by the braking torque bolts (H,
12.1). Once you have snugged both sets of bolts in, securely fasten the steering arm base bolt before the braking torque bolts.
Another method of setting up the ‘Rider’ brake, is to adjust the reach of the brake lever. Please refer to the enclosed Magura info package for information on how to do this.
G) Steering arm base bolt H) Braking torque bolts I) Braking torque and Steering arm. J) Steering linkage fastening point K) 8mm Brake adjustment socket on slave unit L) Brake slave unit cylinder
Fig. 13.1 Fig. 13.2
If you ordered mudguards with your bicycle, they will be fast and easy to install.
Remove the wheels from two wheeled bikes and the rear wheel from the rider to install the mudguards. For the rear wheel, screw the mudguard to the bicycles rear fork at its base, using the rubber spacer and bolt provided. (Fig 13.3), placing the spacer between the mudguard and the frame. Now attach the support rods to the rear swingarm via bolt holes located at the top of the swingarm, right above the wheel dropouts. (These are similar to normal bike
Once you have attached these support rods (13.3, b), you will need to attach them to the
Fig. 13.3
mudguard itself. This is done using the headless clamping bolts (a), nuts (d) and holders (c) supplied. Feed the rod through the eye of the holder, insert the holder into the metal attachment arm of the mudguard and screw the bolt onto it, clamping the rod in place (g 13.1).
Rider mudguards fasten to the braking torque arm and steerin g plate, on the front and rear bolt, as seen in gure 13.4. The installation procedure is the similar to two wheel ed bicycles, however you do not attach the base of the mudguard to the frame and only x it from one side. This construction may look weaker than the double side frame secured method but the rods are strong enough to hold the mudguard in place, as long as it is
installed properly.
rack mount points, but not to be used for racks.) See g 13.2.
Fig. 13.3
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Page 12
Caution! Bleeding hydraulic brakes of air is a potentially
dangerous process if not done correctly. We strongly advise
that you get your brakes bled by an experienced bicycle
mechanic if you are not absolutely certain that you can do it.
Bleeding Hydraulic brakes
For those who can bleed their brakes properly, Optima offers standard and Rider bleeding kits
to its customers a bleeding kit, using the address found on page 30, resources.
4
1
, which come with a complete instruction manual. Please contact optima for
6. Fitting the seat and rack.
Caution! Do tighten the bolts holding the seat onto the seat
frame over 6 NM-1. Failure to follow this guideline will either
immediately crack your seat, or reduce it’s service life. Let the
For low handlebar models, please go to step 10 on page 17 rst. The seat must be installed using the rubber spacers, 3 & 6 mm Allen keys and the 10 mm bolts provided. The seat mountings allow for adjustment of the angle of the seat, of approximately 5 degrees (g
14.2). The seat mounting frames are fastened using a 6mm allen key, and a 5mm allen key on the bolt holding the seat frame and chain router on the lower right hand side. The rack xes to the frame using the upper seat xtures and the bolts half way down the seat support tube. If you own a Orynx or Dolphin, your rack, if you ordered one, will be different from the rack on the bicycle shown in gure 1.1. This rack fastens onto the same points as the standard rack, but it integrates the upper seat frame. (g. 1.1, part numbers 2 and 35) The Stinger rack fastens to the upper adjustable seat mounting, and is connected to the seat itself with 4 bolts instead of two.
7. Installing the Pedals
Now get the Pedals, and slightly grease the thread on them. Feed the pedal thread into the cranks manually, remembering that the left hand pedal has an inverted thread (To tighten, turn counter-clockwise.) The right hand side has a normal thread (turn clockwise to tighten).
8. Installing the pedal Boom
Loosen the screws on the bottom of the frame where the boom enters the frame feed the boom into the frame, ensuring the derailleur post, if present, is on top and the chainwheels are on the right hand side of the boom, in the direction the bike travels. If you own a condor or a rider, keep in mind that for any extension or shortening of the pedal boom, you will need to undo the derailleur cable rst. When you cut the cable to length, take note that doing so will limit the extent to which you can extend the boom in future, without buying a new inner cable.
Start the setup process by setting your seat in the most upright position possible. Now adjust the length of the pedal boom up so that your knee is slightly bent when your heel is on the pedal at it’s full extension. Make sure that you feel comfortable with the setting – some people like their pedals closer than others. If you did not tell us your leg length in the ordering procedure you will now need to adjust the chain length5, as described on page (XX). If you have short legs, you may even need to cut down the pedal boom to allow for the bike to be set up correctly. We advise you do to a local bike store to have this done. If you cannot or wish to do it yourself, use a good jig and a sharp metal saw to cut the pedal boom down.
To get the pedal boom aligned properly in rotation, line the boom up with the seat and handlebars. Once you have the boom properly aligned, tighten the bolts rmly.
Tip: When adjusting the angle of your seat, you will need to
change the extension of the pedal boom slightly. If you lay the
seat back, reduce the extension of the boom. If you bring the
seat upright, lengthen the boom extension slightly.
4
Rider kit comes with an extra syringe and lead for the dual slave system. This special kit is
cheaper than buying two Magura service kits, which you would otherwise have to do.
14
Caution! The pedal boom MUST NOT be extended beyond the poi nt at which the end of the boom is les s t han 10 mm inwards f rom the inner of boom clamping bolt (A, fig
16.2). Failure to follow this guideline will result in increased fatigue and potential failu re o f the fram e of your bicycle.
5
This requires a special tool: a chain breaker or pin pusher. Go to your local bike store if you don’t know how to use one or are not condent in adjusting your chain, as a badly connected chain will break.
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Page 13
9. Installing the Front Derailleur and cables
The cable will have been fed through the boom during the manufacturing process, and you will see the end of the cable (B, Fig 15.2) sticking out of the boom just below the front derailleur post (C). Bend the cable round and feed it into the cable stop (D), on the left hand side of the front derailleur boss (again, in the direction the bike travels). For exact tuning of the front derailleur please see the instruction manual of the manufacturer, included with your bicycle information package. Align the derailleur so that the chain passes parallel to the front derailleur’s cage, by loosening the clamp on the derailleur clamp sheath (E, g 15.2). This will avoid the necessity to readjust the cable. Now that you have set up the extension and derailleur, you may want to cut the front derailleur cable to length. Only do this if you are condent you can do it properly!
Tip: if two people will be using the bike, to install the front
derailleur (inner and outer) cable length according to the
settings of the tallest user!
10. Tires and correct tire pressure
To ensure proper traction and safety, tires must be inated to the correct pressure (60–100% of max, unless otherwise stated). If the pressure is too low, the rolling resistance will be signicantly higher than usual and the tires will wear at a faster rate. If it is too high, the tires will deform and eventually fail. The max tire pressure and often the advised range can be found on the sidewall of the tire, in both p.s.i. and bar. Some tires will also have an arrow indicating their intended rotational direction.
Warning! Make sure your tires are properly infla te d as described above before riding. A tire at low pressure will cause more drag, wear faster, and may lead to handling pro bl ems or even tire folding in emergency maneuvers.
11. Handlebars
If you bike is delivered in a box, some handlebars may not be mounted. For understeer models mount the handlebar and stem before the seat, using a 6mm allen key. Adjust the angle of the handlebar so that it falls into your hands comfortably whilst they are in a straight line with regard to your wrist. Otherwise adjust it to an angle that feels natural to you. A properly adjusted handlebar will reduce fatigue all the way up to your shoulders and neck. For above steering models, you may need to install the stem. (turn page)
Installing a above steering tiller is a simple process. Start by feeding the stems base onto the fork steerer tube, makins sure that the clamp ring is abound the base of the stem (with exeption of the baron stem, see the next paragraph for baron instructions). Once the tiller is slid onto the steerer tube, lean it forwards and insert the top clamping screw into the hole at the top of the stem. Tighten this screw Untill all paly is gone from the bearing races. Then swing the stem back and align it with the front wheel. Now tighten the collar around the stems base to lock the stems angle. Both tillers can be adjusted in angle by screwing the angle adjustment screw in or out. The universal tiller can be adjusted in reach, by loosening the screw in the collar clamp of the top seaction and sliding it in or out.
For the Baron, Slide the stem onto the forks steerer tube, then place the headset cap on top of it. Insert the bearing pressure screw and tighten it untill all play is gone from the bearings. Now allign the stem with the front wheel and tighten the bolt found behind the steerer tube and under the stems arm.
12.Suspension
The suspension will have been fully prepared in the Optima factory. No further work is necessary, however you may want to tune the suspension preload6 to suit your weight and riding style. If you have an air shock absorber, adjustment will require a special high­pressure pump, available from better bicycle stores. If you have a coil spring shock absorber, adjusting the preload is easy. Simply twist the spring and bracket on the stationary body, clockwise to increase the preload and counter clockwise to reduce it. This will cause the bracket to move up or down on its thread, and cause the pre compression factor to increase or decrease, resulting in a softer or harder feel to the suspension (see g 19.1). Further adjustment is possible by moving the lower xture to another of the three anchoring holes on the rear wheel fork (see image to the right). The further from the pivot point the lower xture is, the harder the suspension will be. Correctly set up suspension will sag about 1/5 into its travel when the cyclist sits on the bike. This setting ensures the suspension will function correctly and effectively.
Optima bicycles are equipped with a spring that is best suited to rider’s weights of 60–100kg (130- 220lbs.). If you fall outside of these bounds, you may want to consider visiting a good bicycle store, which should be able to help you nd a new spring that suits your weight.
Tip: If you are carrying lots of baggage (on the rack or frame)
you will need to tighten the spring preload, relocate the lower
xture and maybe even buy another spring to ensure proper
suspension function.
16
6
Preload is the precompression factor of the spring. This denes and how soft or hard the suspension function will be. Increasing it will make for a rougher ride, decreasing it will result in a smoother ride. Ask your dealer for tips on optimal setup for all conditions.
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Page 14
13.Chain length and Pulleys.
Pulleys
Each Optima bicycle is equipped with at least one chain guiding pulley, which will not need much maintenance. These pulleys both guide the chain and prevent the bicycle’s rear suspension from being inuenced by pedalling forces. The fastenings for the pulleys double as anchorage points for the protective chain tubes, which reduce the amount of dust that gets to your chain and protect your clothing.
14.Brakes.
The brakes may need slight adjustment out of the box bus should be working properly.
Optima sets up its bikes so that the right hand brake lever is for the rear brake, and the left
hand lever is for the front.
Be careful in learning to use the brakes on a recumbent – the rear wheel will break out easily
if you use them over zealously. On a recumbent you cannot move around like on a normal
bike, making a recovery more difcult.
It is crucial that the chain is guided over the pulleys correctly, as failure to do so could result in damage to the bicycle frame and seat. Make sure that the larger diameter pulley (70mm / 3 in diameter) guides the chain as it goes from the top of the rear cog cassette, to the top of the front chainwheels of the crank.
The three low swung Optima’s (Baron, Cobra and Stinger) have 1 or two return pulleys to
Fig 18.1 Baron, Cobra and Stinger chainline
Standard chainline
pulleys and through all tubes, put the chain into the smallest front chainwheel and smallest rear cog. The rear derailleur’s chain tensioning arm should now be pointing backwards, as seen in g. 18.3. (the two teethed pulleys are attached to the tensioning arm) If the arm points downwards, lengthen the chain slightly. If it points upwards slightly or the chain is not held tense and hangs, shorten the chain. You will need a special tool for this: a chain pin pusher. Push out the pin of the chain totally, and reconnect the chain using the included bronze coloured superlink. To release the superlink, squeeze the two plates together and slide their pins together.
allow for b etter clearanc e for steering (g 18.1). These sma ller pulleys were only designed to take a minimal load, and incorrectly routing the chain will brake them and their ttings. The rest of the optima range has one pulley for the upper driving side of the chain, and use a long ared tube to guide the chain back to the rear cassette.
Chain length.
With the pedal boom set up at the correct extension and the chain routed past all
Fig 18.2 Chain length setu p
15.Mounting an aerodynamic fairing (Baron
Option)
A correctly installed fairing will reduce
your wind resistance by 10%, giving
you a competitive edge or that extra
bit of range on a ride. Follow these
instructions carefully and you will look
back – but only to see all the people
you’ve passed! A fairing kit can be
or der ed fr om an y offic ial Opti m a
representative and includes a Fairing,
bolts, spacers, a support arch and a
seat attachment plate.
The rst step in installing a fairing is
to put your seat all the way back, or to the position you wish to keep it in once the cowling is
installed. (The fairing will not t properly if the seat is more than half way upright.)
Now nd the included templa te for the cut­ou t fo r th e wh eel an d de rai l leu r on the under side o f the fairing, shaped like g
19.1. Make double and triple sure to align the template properly, with the side marked derailleur side, on the correct side of the fairing! (All you need to look for is ‘inside template side’ When this text is facing YOU, the side facing down is the side described in the text.) Read the last sentence between brackets again, because if you mess up here you can’t go back a step!!!
Tip: It is important that the fairing ts you like a glove: any
openings will effectively turn your fairing into a parachute
giving the opposite effect to what you want! Ask your optima
representative for hints and tips if you are uncertain of
anything.
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Page 15
You will need one of two tools to cut the form out: a Jig saw or a tin cutter. If you don’t have either of these tools we suggest you buy or rent one. If you use a jig saw, you must use a special breglass saw on it, or the polyester of the fairing will spit and crack from the vibrations created by cutting the fairing. This may all cost more, but it will cost less than ordering a new fairing and the results will be much more satisfying in the long run. You will also need a pair of safety glasses, gloves and preferably a long sleeve top and long pants: Polyester shards are sharp and when they get into your skin, they can cause a rash and irritation that could last for about 10 days. Not protecting yourself whilst working is foolish, and the chances are high you will wish you had followed these guidelines after working if you don’t.
Fig 20.1 Jig saw & tin cutter
Be sure to nd one of these: a composite / bre glass saw blade
Once you have aligned the template correctly, trace the shape of the template onto the shell and remove the template. Now get the tin cutter or saw with the breglass cutting blade and cut away. You may need to trim the form slightly to get a good t. Again, make sure you use the special bre glass sawblade if you use a jig saw.
Now mount the rear fairing arch to the holes near the rear dropouts on the frame, making sure to place a spacer between both the bolt and arch, and arch and frame. Check that the bolt on the right hand (derailleur and cogset) side does not scrape against the cassette or interfere with shifting in any way. Also make sure that the arch is well centred over the rear wheel. Remove and bend the arch if it is not properly centred.
Drill one hole in the back of your seat using a 6mm drill bit,
approximately 5cm (2 inches) from the top of the seat, along its centreline. Now that you have your drill handy, proceed to drill a hole in the top of the fairing, approximately 32cm (12.5 in) from the seat side of the top ridge of the shell. Use this hole to attach the fairing to the rear fairing support arch, using the nut, washer, rubber spacer and low prole bolt provided. Place the rubber spacer between the fairing and the top of the wheel arch. (See g 20.2) All connections between the cowling and xture points should use the included rubber spacers, between the inner side of the shell and the xation point. Always place a rubber spacer between objects to be connected to the fairing and the fairing itself.
Fig 20.2
Make sure you put your seat all the way back again, attach the cushion to the seat, and sit down on the bike. If anyone else is round now would be a good time to ask for a little help. Fix the seat attachment plate to the seat using the included rubber spacers and washers. The longer arm of the seat attachment plate should be bolted to the hole you drilled in the seat. Swing the cowling, now attached to its arch, down onto the plate, and start adjusting
the cowlings vertical and horizontal position by moving the seat plate up and down. Set up the height and horizontal position of the fairing so that it ts ush to your shoulders just behind their peak, making sure the t as close as it possibly can be. Make sure the seat cushion is on the seat during this adjustment, otherwise you will be setting the fairing up too low and it will be less comfortable and less effective.
Once you have found a comfortable position, (nd someone to help you here if possible) mark the position that the hole for the bolt is against the underside of the fairing, using a sharp implement or paint marker (g
21.2). You will need to reach you hand back up inside the cowling to do this. Make sure the upper bolt is tightly fastened so that the attachment plate doesn’t move. Now ip the cowling back and use a sharp implement or a paint marker to mark one of the lower bolt hole on the seat plate’s position against the seat. Drill a hole in both the cowling and the position you marked on the seat, and fasten both points using the bolts and rubber spacers provided. Drill the second hole you marked in the base of the seat now and fasten the top plate properly.
Now that you have the fairing xed to the wheel arch and seat, it is time to drill and x it to the bottom of the seat. Do this by aligning the lower arms of the fairing to the underside of the seat and tape the bottom of the fairing to the seat securely making sure that the wheel does not scrape against the back end of the fairing in doing so. Now drill a hole through both the fairing and the seat from the bottom up (g 21.3). Attach the lower sides to the seat using the low prole bolts, rubber spacer and bolts provided. You may now need to trim the fairing to allow wheel clearance (g 21.1).
That’s it – your aerodynamic fairing is installed!
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Page 16
Riding A Recumbent Bicycle
Before you ride
Before you take your beast out on the streets, take a moment on your bike to get used to the new seating position and point of view that your Optima provides. Remember that in such a low position, automobile drivers may not see you! For this reason we urge you to please exercise caution whilst riding in trafc! Do not overtake in corners, this is extremely dangerous. Optima strongly advises you to consider installing a (kiddy bike) ag on your bike if you ride in trafc often, as this will increase your visibility to other road users signicantly.
Once you are used to riding in the recumbent position we advise that you use a ‘clipless’ pedal system. These pedals can take a little while to get used to, but they will allow for much more comfortable riding and result in less leg fatigue, as it takes more effort to keep your feet on the pedals of a recumbent than a normal bicycle!
For your convenience and safety please make sure that the Bicycle ts you properly and that you have followed all instructions for assembly as shown in the chapter ‘Setting up your Bicycle’ before riding.
Short pre-ride checklist.
Brakes
Pull each brake lever to make sure there is no stickiness and that the brakes are properly centered and engage the rims or disk properly, without scufng the tires. Check that they can exert enough pressure to stop the bike. If your brakes are too tight or loose, adjustments should be made. Please refer to the original manufacturers manuals, enclosed in the information package and to the troubleshooting section of this manual.
Quick Release Levers
Please ensure that all wheels are securely and properly fastened before stepping on the bike. Check that the quick release levers are rmly in their closed positions (see gures 6.2 & 6.3). Failure to do so could result in a serious accident and injury.
Tires and wheels
Ensure that your tires are properly inated and that the wheels run true between your forks and frame. Gas station pumps inate tires very rapidly, but the pressure gauges may be inaccurate. We suggest you inate your tires using a hand pump and an appropriate pressure gauge to read the pressure7. Grasp each wheel rmly and try to move it side to side. There should be no noticeable play. If there is excessive play, ensure you have tightened the hubs before riding, as this play may cause braking malfunction.
Seat
Ensure that your seat is securely fastened to the frame before mounting your recumbent bicycle. See section 6, page 14: ‘tting seat and rack’ for more details.
Operating the gear changing systems.
Optima bicycles are supplied with three main types of gear shifting systems, Shimano trigger shifters, SRAM twist shifters and Shimano bar end shifters. Each of these systems has it’s own merits, and the choice for either comes down to nothing more than personal preference. To shift twist shifters, twist the grip. To shift Shimano shifters, pull the trigger with your pointer or push the lever with your thumb. To shift the bar-end levers, bend them forwards and backwards. The right hand gearshift activator operates the rear derailleur; the left hand operates the front derailleur. You must be pedalling to operate derailleur gear shifters.
Pushing Shimano thumblevers will generally push the chain to a larger cog and pulling the trigger will move the chain to a smaller cog. Twisting gripshift grips downwards will generally move the chain into a larger cog, and forwards back to smaller cogs. Pushing barend shifters down shifts to larger cogs, pulling them back up goes to smaller ones. Generally the direction with the most resistance is moving to a larger cog.
Caution! Do not shift derailleurs when you are standing still,
or backpedal whilst shifting. This may damage your shifting
system or lead to a fall.
Hub gears will work whilst pedaling or whilst standing still, but generally weigh more than derailleur systems and are easier to maintain. Derailleur shifters are lighter and more easily serviced, but are more open to the elements than a hub geared system.
If you want to shift into a harder gear at the front (Left) you will have push the derailleur to a larger cog. To go to a faster gear in the rear (right), you will need to shift to a smaller cog. Whilst this is at rst confusing, it will in time become second nature. As far as the position of the chain on the cog goes; the closer the chain is to the centerline of the bike, the easier the bike is to pedal and the slower you go. The further out it gets, the harder it is to pedal and the faster you will go. Regard the front cogs as three speed ranges, with the rear allowing adjustment of this range. Major speed changes will use the front derailleur. Smaller ones will use the rear.
Moving the chain towards the centerline of the bike is called ‘downshifting’ and moving it away from the centerline is called ‘upshifting’
Tip: It is best not to put the chain into both small sprockets.
Riding in this gear combination could damage the rear
derailleur and will lead to irritating ‘chain slap’ noise, as
well as increased chances of the chain falling off the front
chainwheels
7
Please contact your bicycle dealer for an appropriate pressure gauge or pump.
22
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Page 17
The First Ride
Warning! Take it easy when riding your bike for the rst 2
months. Riding a recumbent hard straight away will easily
overload your knees, and there is nothing worse than having a
new bike… and being unable to ride it!
Fig
24.1
Now that you have checked the bicycles basic mechanisms, go out onto a quiet street or alley, away from trafc and take your rst spin on the bike. So… how do you ride one of these things? Just set your eyes on the horizon, and GO! Starting for the rst time on a recumbent can be a hairy experience, but you will be surprised just how fast you get used to riding on your new bike. Riding a recumbent for the rst time is all about commitment. In the words of a well-known shoe manufacturer, Just do it!
The basic skills and feelings are exactly the same as on a traditional bike, just now you feel like you are riding on a couch! We strongly advise that you wear a helmet if helmets are not already compulsory for cyclists in the country where you live.
Put your preferred leg on the upper pedal, bent and ready to push as hard as you can. Just like on a normal bike, the faster you go on a recumbent the easier it is to stay upright. ‘Just testing’ your bike slowly will generally lead to you not even being able to take your other foot off the ground. This may require a little courage – but it is denitely courage that will be rewarded! Relax your arms and body – a tense body makes even a normal bike hard to ride. Now that you have the foot of your preferred leg on the pedal and other holding you upright (g. 24.1, A), you will need to push rmly on that pedal. Don’t look around you and decide where you will fall – that is setting yourself up for failure. Look into the distance, loosen up, (you should be able to steer with your ngertips) put all your weight on the seat, swallow your adrenaline and go! Once you are moving, quickly, yet smoothly, bring your other leg up from the ground (B) and put it on the other pedal ready to deliver the second power stroke(C). It may take a few tries to build up the courage to do this, but soon we will be able to say ‘Congratulations! You are now riding your Optima!’
Travelling on your recumbent
Never thought of yourself as one to go on a bicycle holiday? Or maybe you have always dreamed of a bicycle holiday? Optima bicycles are more than suited to travel on; almost all Optima recumbents can be tted with bicycle pannier racks and special carrying bags to allow for luggage transportation. You cannot however t any old bicycle rack to an Optima, you will need to order the specially made Optima racks. These racks have been designed to carry loads of up to 20 Kg on the Stinger and Baron, and 50Kg on all other models. Remember to keep the weight as low as possible when packing your bike bags, as top-heavy bags will raise the center of gravity and negatively inuence your bikes handling. Single wheeled baggage trailers will have a greater inuence on the handling of your recumbent than a normal bike. Be sure to pack them with the center of gravity as low as possible. Remember that loading your bike will mean having to change suspension settings or even replacing the spring. (See setting up your bicycle: suspension). Please contact the dealer you purchased your Optima from for more details about bags and racks .
Tip: Remember to shift to the lowest gear before you stop,
especially when you’re carrying extra luggage on the bike
Comfort and quality accessories for your recumbent.
24
Optima manufactures a number of accessories for the improvement of cycling comfort which can be ordered at any time from any sales point. These accessories are, amongst others, a headrest, soft handlebar grips, seat covers, a tailbox with luggage compartment for the stinger and an adjustable stem for above steering models. All these accessories are made of high quality durable materials, are easy to install, and add to both the comfort and looks of your recumbent.
The headrest is adjustable in height, with a hygienic breathing cover which can easily be removed for machine washing. This headrest is made with quality stainless steel rails and low prole bolts that
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Page 18
Optima seat covers are made from the same dur able and hygienic machine washable material as the headrest cover, fitting all standard sized optima seats cushions. These covers look great and will make your cushion and clothes last much longer.
Another handy option, exclusively designed for the stinger, is the aerodynamic luggage tail box. This luggage carrying fairing at tac hes simp ly and se cur ely to the
integrated r ac k and upper seat a rc h, giv i n g you a dry and secure space to carry your th i n gs as well as an aerodynamic advantage,
all in one attractive unit. All you need to do to install it is place it on the rack, drill through the rack and tailbox at two points and fasten the
included bolts.
Maintenance
To keep your Optima working optimally you will need to carry out periodic maintenance. This chapter outlines necessary periodic control and maintenance. We strongly advise you order the parts listed in the ‘Accessories’ section of this manual from Optima or one of Optima’s dealers only. This is for your own safety, to ensure you get the right parts.
Keeping your recumbent bicycle properly maintained is very important. Use the following outline as a guide for repair and maintenance intervals. Many of these tasks are easy to do oneself, but we recommend that you let an expert do the more challenging work (Working on hydraulic brakes, truing buckled wheels, etc.). If you have any questions about how best to maintain your bicycle, please feel free to contact your Optima dealer or Optima’s headquarters in the Netherlands. (Address can be found in the last chapter of this book; ‘resources’.)
Certain parts such as the spokes and cables will ‘set in’ after the rst few rides, and related systems may require some adjustment to maintain optimal functionality.
This maintenance schedule is based on normal usage. If you ride your bike more than average or in adverse conditions, you may want to go over your recumbent more often than the manual suggests. (carry out a quarterly check every month, for example) If any part malfunctions or seems to be broken, immediately adjust or repair it yourself, or seek the help of a professional. Do not ride a bicycle that is not functioning properly.
An e xot ic ac ces s ory f rom o pti ma is t he ca rbo n f ibr e sea t , wei ghi n g in at a m ere 675 grams, com pared to around 1350 for a standard medium seat. This seat is stiffer and lighter than normal seats, giving a lighter bike and more efcient cycling, not to mention the beauty and allure of life’s most basic building block, carbon.
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Page 19
This maintenance schedule is based on normal usage. If you ride your bike more than average or in adverse conditions, you may want to go over your recumbent more often than the manual suggests. (carry out a quarterly check every month, for example) If any part malfunctions or seems to be broken, immediately adjust or repair it yourself, or seek the help of a professional. Do not ride a bicycle that is not functioning properly.
Recommended periodic maintenance
Each time you ride:
· Check your brakes work properly.
· Check that your gears work properly.
· Make a quick visual inspection of the bike to check for other faults.
· Check that quick release levers are securely fastened.
Weekly
· Clean off you bicycle and make a quick visual inspection of major parts
· Check tire pressure and general state of the tires
· Check brakes for correct function and adjust them if necessary.
· Adjust malfunctioning gears and lubricate the chain if dry.
Warning! Failure to follow these guidelines could allow
faults or badly adjusted components to go unnoticed, until a
resultant crash!
Quarterly checklist.
Brakes
· Check that the brake pads meet the disk or rim accurately and do not scuff the tires.
· Check your brake blocks for wear.
· Secure break mounting bolts.
Cables
· Check all cables for damage, kinks or wear. Replace as needed.
· Take the cables out of their housings and clean them, also checking for kinks in the wire (replace if there are major kinks, as a cable may snap there if not replaced!
· Readjust gears and brakes to compensate for cable stretch.
Wheels
· Check hubs for excessive play or noise. Disassemble, re-lube and tighten the hub if you encounter any of these.
· Check that your rims are true, and inspect them for ange denting and wear.
· Make sure that all the spokes are tight and equally loaded, check for kinks in the spokes. Replace damaged spokes.
Tires and inner tubes
· Check tire pressure: Low tires will require more effort to keep rolling, and may be dangerous in emergency maneuvers.
· Inspect tire tread and sidewalls for wear, splits and general integrity. Replace the tire immediately if you can see the tire carcass or have any doubts on the state of the tire.
· Replace inner tubes with more than about 5 patches – these will generally leak slowly anyway.
Derailleurs
· Check the sideways travel of the derailleurs, checking that the limiting screws keep the derailleur away form the spokes and frame.
· Clean the rear derailleurs cogs and derailleur arm. Check cog bolts for proper tension.
· If the adjustment barrel on your derailleur and/ or shifters is signicantly screwed out, its time to undo the cable bolt on the derailleur, screw the adjustment barrels in and retighten the cable.
Drivetrain
· Inspect chain to ensure it is in a good state, with no seized links.
· Lubricate chain, clean beforehand if necessary. Don’t forget to clean the cogs if you clean the chain! If you want to remove the chain, remember that all Optima bicycles come with superlinks in the chains that can be taken apart with the hand.
· Inspect chainwheels and rear cassette, for wear and broken teeth. Worn teeth begin to resemble shark ns.
· Check that the chainrings are true, and are properly tightened to the crank.
· Check that the rear cog cassette is securely fastened to the rear wheel. Tightening the cassette requires a special tool.
· Check that the chain protection tubes are securely fastened to their ttings. A loose tube may cause to chain to jump off the cogs unexpectedly or damage the derailleurs.
· Inspect and lube the chain rollers. Inspect the chain track; these are consumable products which wear down, and will need replacement.
Headset
· Check for excess play or a ‘sandy’ feeling. Tighten or re-lubricate as necessary.
· Re-lubricate headset if the grease is dry or dirty.
· Check the lubrication of the Riders wheel xing / steering slave blocks.
Check the alignment of the handlebars
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Page 20
Pedals, Cranks and Bottom bracket.
· Check pedals for cracks and other damage.
· Test the pedals for smoothness, and inspect lubrication. Clean and re-grease if contaminated.
· Make sure that the pedals are securely fastened to the cranks.
· Make sure that the cranks are securely fastened to the bottom bracket axle.
· Ensure the bottom bracket is securely tightened inside the frame.
· Check the bottom bracket for smoothness and for excess play. If you have a cartridge bottom bracket, replace when dysfunctional.
Suspension
· Dismount and clean rear shock absorber. Remove spring and depress shaft of the damper into the shock body. Make sure this goes smoothly, and that there is no oil residue on the Stanchion after its return.
· Clean and inspect suspension pivot points. Lightly grease shock absorber bushings. Make sure not to use excessive lubricant, as this will attract dirt and may even increase the rate of wear at the pivot points.
· Clean suspension fork sliders. Lubricate as advised in manufacturer ’s manual.
· Ensure that the suspension pivot points twist freely, without excessive play. This includes the bushings on the shock absorbers.
Miscellaneous.
· Check tubes and frame for damage or damage to paint.
· Check that all nuts and bolts are fastened securely. Be careful not to over-tighten bolts.
Tools for maintenance
This section will cover which tools are necessary for maintenance of your Optima recumbent bicycle, and will give a list of recommended extra tools. All fastenings on Optima bicycles have standard metric sizes.
Allen Keys
· 2mm
· 2.5mm
· 3mm
· 4mm
· 5mm
· 6mm
· 8mm
· 10mm (Rider wheel bolts)
Spanners/ Wrenches
· 8mm
· 9mm
· 10mm
· 13mm
· 15mm
Reccomended: Chain Cleaner Screwdrivers
Service tips
Adjustment of the hubs.
Both hubs on your bicycle must be correctly adjusted to minimize wear and tear. A hub that is set too tightly or with too much play will wear faster than a correctly adjusted hub. The correct play is approximately 0.3mm (0.012 in) at the rim. To readjust the hubs, remove them from the bicycle. The front hubs can be adjusted from either side, but the rear hub may only be adjusted on the left side (opposite to the cogs and freewheel assembly). Hubs must be lubricated with grease on the bearings, with the area around the seals kept free of grease, as this will attract dust and grit. Do not oil the bearings, as this will slowly erode the grease lubrication.
Headset and front forks.
Due to the considerable stresses this area of your bicycle can undergo, correct adjustment is important. Check that the headset in which the fork rests is free of play. We suggest you let your Optima dealer deal with any excess play. If the headset cannot be adjusted such that no play is present whilst offering no resistance to turning, please contact a local bike store. Check regularly that the headset is fastened securely. For the Rider, ensure that the steel tube and copper bushings on the steering slave blocks are properly greased.
Spoke tension
Spokes are an essential part of your bicycle and badly adjusted spokes will have a
negative inuence on the stability of your bicycle. Tensioning spokes is a specialized task, which requires experience and insight. For this reason we advise you have tensioning done by a professional. A few weeks after purchasing your bicycle we strongly recommend that you have your spokes checked for tension
Warning! A loosely spoked wheel can result in your bike handling badly, in normal and particularly in extreme conditions. Make sure your wheels
are well maintained by a properly qualied bicycle mechanic.
Bottom bracket and crank
The bottom bracket and cranks must be free of play. Check regularly that the chainwheel bolts are securely tightened and that the cranks are securely fastened to the bottom bracket. Any maintenance of the bottom bracket requires special tools and is best left to a professional bicycle mechanic.
Gears
Your gears will need periodic adjustment to keep them working optimally. Cables stretch and cable housings compress slightly after use, so adjustment may be necessary reasonably soon after purchasing the bicycle. If you are uncertain how to adjust the gears, please refer to the documentation of the original manufacturer, included in the information package. If you are still hesitant, please take your bike to a local bicycle store to be tuned up. Many Optima Bicycles require special extra long gear shifting cables. Please contact Optima or your dealer for information.
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Storage tips
If you are not going to be using your recumbent for a while, it is imperative that it is stored properly. Before storing your bike, be sure to clean and lubricate it, as a badly stored bicycle can be difcult to get back to working order. Make sure not to get ANY grease on the disk brakes!! If you do, you will have to clean it with proper disk brake cleaning uid. If any oil has got into or onto the pads, you MUST throw them away and replace them for your own safety.
Store your bike in a dry, temperate, dark place. Hang the bike off the ground, and let the tires down to about half pressure.
Tip: Avoid storing your bicycle near a generator or electric
motor, as these can produce ozone which can damage rubber
and may cause premature ageing of some protective paints on
your bicycle
Troubleshooting.
Problems? Troubles? Check to see whether you can nd the fault and x it, using this section of the manual. If you see an asterix* you know the repair requires a special Optima product, listed on pg 39.
The Following pages hold symptoms and possible causes with some handy tips to make xing problems and general maintenance of your Optima recumbent bicycle much easier. This troubleshooting section is by no means complete; If you wish to learn more about bicycle maintenance we suggest that you contact a local bicycle dealer and ask about bike maintenance books.
Suspension
The susupension does not feel sensitive enough over bumps in the road
The suspension is too soft; the bike bobs around or bottoms out.
The suspension is not as sensitive as it used to be
The syuspension fork legs are covered in oil, or oil is dripping out of them
There is sideward play in the rear swingarm
The suspension is as soft as it will go and it just isnt working!
Wheels and tires
Every time i x a at, the tire does at again!
The tyre looses air slowly
The tires wont sit cor­rectly on the rim
The wheels are hard to remove from and replace in the frame.
The spring prelaod may be set too high,. Change this setting my twisting the prelaod knobs on the forks (not present on all models) or by twisting the spring on the rear shock so that the spring extends on the shaft.
Adjust the preaload so that the bike sags only slightly when you sit on it. Now try riding again, adjusting the spring again as necessarry.
The fork stansions or pivot points may be dirty or require cleaning. If this does not hepl, go to a bike store for assistance.
You have probably just burst a seal in the oil damping system. Take your bicy­cle to a good bike store to have the seal or cartrige replaced.
Check that all bolts on the swingarm are properly tightened. If this is not the source of the problem please contact your dealer or optima for info on how to proceed.
As strange as it sounds, you may beed to increase suspension preload to make the system work properly. If this does not work, visit a good bike store and ask tham; you may need a new spring in your suspension units that better suits your weight.
Check the tube carefully to see if there are any other tiny holes. If the hole is on the inside of the rim, you may have a spoke protuding into the tyre area. If it is on the outside of the wheel, check the inside and outside of the tyre for any embedded objects that could be causing your tyre to puncture. Also check the state of the tyre tread: is ot worn out? this may account for many punctures.
You will need to check the tyre for tiny holes or valve problems. Do this by submersing the inner tube in water and looking for bubbles. If you cant nd any specicic leak, the tyre may be old and pourus, needing replacement. On the trail, pump up the removed tyre and run it under your nose, you will feel any air leaks in between your nose hairs.
Delfate the tyres and wiggle them on the rims to resettle them. When reinating the tyre, stop pumping at 1 bar (15 psi) and spin the tyre to make sure it is well set on the rim.
Have you unscrewed the quick release sufciently? Is the rear derailleur set to the smallest cog? If the problem continues, please take your bicycle to a your local dealer.
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Hubs
There is play inthe hub when you push sideways on the rim.
The hub does'nt roll well and or feels sandy
After a rear hub over­haul the derailleur wont shift right.
The bike wont roll properly (or if a trike, it pulls to one side)
The front chainwheel seems to bend while p[edaling causing it to scrape against the derailleur.
There is creaking sound when you pedal
You removed and replaced the chinrings, and now you can barely shift gears
You bent the chainring in a crash
You broke a tooth off the chainring.
The hub may need tightening or readjustment. Adjusting hubs requires special tools and can best be done by a qualied mechanic.
If you have recently overhauled the hub you may have over tightened the bear­ing cups. If not then you hub has probabl;y become contaminated with grit and grind and will need to be dissasembled, cleaned and re-greased.
if bearings were replaced, the hubs balance may be slightly off. See the section dreaillleur and greas on how to adjust the rear derailleur.
Your brakes may be dragging and incorrectly set up. Please refer to your brak­ing equipmnt manual.
Check that the cranks are properly secured to the bottom bracket, and that all chainrings are securely fastened to the cranks. If this doesnt help, have your bottom bracket checked by a mechanic. If you still encounter the problem, it may be that you are exerting too much force on the fedaps: youll need to shift to an easier gear and pedal faster - if you dont you will damage boith your bike and your knees.
listen carefully to see whether the sound is coming from your cranks or ped­als. Check that your chainwheels are securely fastened to the frame. Check that the cranks are tightened properly to the bottom bracket, and that the bottom bracket is securely tightened in the frame. If the problem persisits, try removing the cranks (special tool rquired) and greasing the bottom bracket stubs.
You may have installed the chainrings the wrong way round. Check to ensure thatthe shifting ramps and such are on the inside of the cranks. If this si not the cause, readjust your front derailleur.
If the bend is severe, replace the chainring. If not too severe, get an adjust­able spanner and close the jaws on the bent section of the chainring and bend it true. If it brakes, that meant you needed to replace it anyway.
Its always best to replace the cahinring, but as a remporary x le down and smoothen the remaining stub, and the chainring will function as usual.
Braking
One brake pad drags agains the rim
The brakes bind on the rim or dont return snappily after braking.
The brakes work poorly and feel squishy, you need to pull the levers all the way to the handlebars for them to work.
The brake gets jerky or grabs at one point on the wheel
The brakes are too tight, You cant get them close enough to put enough leverage on them.
You hear a concern­ing metalic scraping sound when braking: braking performance may have dropped.
I know what im doing, yet I cant properly bleed the brakes on my rider!
If you have V-brakes, you will need to adjust the spring tension by tightening or loosening the spring adjustment bolts at the base of the brakes. If your bike has Magura Rim Brakes, check whether the pads retract fully into the slave cylinders. If they do not, remove the brake pads and clean out the slave blocks and brake blocks with a toothbrush.\If the problem persisits please take your bike to a qualied mechanic. If your bike has Disks brakes, you may need to adjust the balance of the disk using special disk brake spacers between the brake caliper and frame.
If you have cable brakes, remove the inner cables from the beake housings and check for dirt and kinks. If the cabe is kinked, you will need to replace it with a special tandem cable (standard cables are too short). If the cables are undamaged, replace them with a thin coat of lubricant. If you have hydraulic brakes, check the hydraulic lines for dents and pinch­ing. We stongly advise having a qualied mechanic carry out any work on hydraulic braking systems.
Check your pads and rim or disk for oil buildup. If you nd any oil on the disk, thouroughly clean the disk rotor. Then remove and replace the brake pads with new ones, being sure to dispose of the contaminated pads as these are dangerous. If there is no oil, you may have air in your system. Please take your bicycle to a sufciently qualied bicycle mechanic to bleed your brakes. Inspect rim brake pads for wear and cosistency: old rubber can and will degrade, reducing the rubber's ability to sloy you down.
Check the rim or disk for wear and trueness, or localised contamination. Buckles in rims and diskscan cause braking irregularities. Replace, clean or straighten the part as nececary.
If you have cable brakes, check to see whether the adjustment barrel is fully screwed into the brake lever. If it is, thenv you may need to loosen the brake cable at the brakes. If you have self adjusting disk brakes, remove the wheel and use the yellow disk brake spacer from Magura. If you dont have one, carefullt insert a at head screwdriver between the pads and twist it to force them apart.
Your pads, Rim or Disk, are most likley severely work and the braking surface is making contact with the metal casing of the brake pad. Stop using the brake in question untill you can replace the pad.
Please contact Optima or your dealer for the special Rider bleeding kit.
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Derailleurs, Chain rollers and rear casette.
The shifting is not as crisp as it used to be
When you stop pedalling and coast, the pedals want to continue turning at the chain bunches up
When riding there is a slipping feeling in the chain or a noise, as if the chain is jumping the cogs.
Pedaling feels rough and the bike is hard to propel even thought the tires are pumped up and the brakes do not drag.
The derailleur refuses to shift to the largest or smallest cog.
The chain is always a) black and grimy or b) squeaky
The chain runs rought and nothing iseem to do will x it.
It has become incresingly difcult to change gears over time
The rear derailleur makes a 'grrrrr'sound when in the large cogs in the rear.
The derailleur may be slightly out of adjustment. You can try tweaking the shifting my twisting the handlebar unit adjustment barrels, or that on the rear derailleur. If this adjustment does not help, check that the casette is well fastened to the freewheel body of the hub. If its loose, take your bicycle to your dealer. If not, you may need to make a larger adjustment by loosening the bolt on the derailleur and tighteningen it. Another idea would be to check the derail­leur cables for grime, kinks or wear and replace as nescecary.
The freewheel mechanism of your hub has siezed up. Try spraying a light lubri­cant into it and allowing it to soak in, If this does not help, take your bicycle to the nearest dealer for further help.
Is your derailleur properly adjusted? If it is and the problem occurs in one particular gear, It may be your favorite gear and has become worn. Inspect the chainwheel or cog in question. If the teeth resemble shark ns, it will need top be replaced. If the skipping happens no matter what the gear, you most likley have a frozen link. BAckpedal the gear system andd keep your eye on the chain as it passes over the pulleys of the rear derailleur. the chain will most likey have a stiff link, that once found will need to be grabbed at either side by pliers and forced to bend to loosen it up. If there is no siezed link, visit your dealer.
Your chain has probaly become so dirty or dry that it is effecting the cycling efciency. Clean and relube the chain. next check the rear derailleur pulleys and chain rollers on the bike and lube or replace as nescecary. If the problem continues, try overhauling your hubs.
If the cable is fully tensed (large sprocket) or fully slack (smalles sprocket) The derailleur limitation screw may need to be adjusted. Please refer to the derail­leur information, included i nthe info package. If not, you may need to play with the derailleur adjustment barrels on the handlebars or rear derailleur.
You are probably using a) too heavy a lubricant or b) too light a lubricant for your normal riding conditions. Please visit your dealer or local bike store and ask for thier advice..
Your chain may be worn out or simply up to replacement. If you have just replaced the rear casette or front chainrings, keep in mind that a drivetrain as a whole wears together, and a new set of cogs may well not intermesh with the old chain properly. Ask your dealer or local bike store
You may need to clean your cables, or even replace them. Remove the inner cables, wipe them down and drop a little light grease into the outer cables, then replace the inner cables.
You may need to adjust the derailleur height clearance bolt, found at the rear of the derailleur, behind the frame nearby the attachment bolt. See the manufactur­ers manual.
Derailleurs, chain rollers and casette, contunued
The chain keeps on falling off the small­est sprocket, at either the front or rear.
The chain keeps bunching up at one of the rollers.
Pedals
The pedals squeak or grind during riding
The pedals feel wob­bly or rough
You are having problems getting into or out of click in pedals.
Your pedals are releasclick in ing you unexpectedly.
The pedal wobbles strangely whilst pedalling
I cant get the pedals onto the cranks! I dont know why they wont go on!
Are you riding on rough terrain with both derailleurs on the smallest cogs? Is your chain set up to the correct length? See directions on page 16. If this is not the case, you will need to screw in the lower derailleur travel limitation screw. See the information pack from the derailleur manufacturer.
Is the chainline unobstructed? Maybe the chain retension bracket (present on some pulleys) needs to be spun further around, in the same direction as the chain is travelling.
You will most likley need to dissassemble the pedals and relubricate them.
The pedals may need replacement bearings. See whether the pedals can be adjusted or tightened. Ask your dealer or local bike store for assistance.
Check that the spring tension is not set too high and that the cleats on your shoes are properly aligned with the pedals. Read the manufacturers directions or go to your dealer for help. Badly adjusted pedals can lead to severe knee, hip and back problems.
You may need to tighten the spring tension on the pedals. If this is not it, the cleat on your shoe may be worn out and will need replacing if this si the case. Ask your dealer for advice.
Check that the cranks are properly tightened to the bottom bracket. Check that the pedal is securely and properly fastened to the crank.If this is not the problem, maybe you were recently involved in a crash which may have bent the pedals? If so you may need to replace the pedal (axles). Do this promptly as such occilations can cause bodily damage.
Are you threading the right pedal into the right and left pedal into the left crank? Pedals have opposing threads on the spindles that prevent them from loosening themselves during cycling. Otherwise check the state of the thred on the pedals or crank.
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Forks and Headset
The threaded headset will not stay in adjust­ment
The no thread headset keeps loosening
A clunking noise comes from the headset when i brake or hit an obstacle
Miscellaneous
The seat creaks, wob­bles or moves
The tiller stem swings forward and backward too easily
The chain protection tubes have come loose or have worn out
I own an trike and it doesnt hadle well, is unpredicatbel in cor­ners and rolls badly
Theres a cracking noise coming from the frame
Make sure that there is a notched washer between the top and botom locknuts of the headset. check that this washer cannot turn freely on the forks steerer tube. Remove the stem and check that there is a small space between the top of the fork steerer tube and the bottom of the top nut.
Remove the headset cap and stem. Check the two sections of the upper clamp for stripped threads, and look to see how deep the starnut is in the forks steerer tube. If it is within a centimetre (1/3 of an inch) of the top of the tube, get a screwdriver and a hammer and knock it down around 1.5 cm (1/2 and inch).
You headest may be loose. Loosen the stem and tighten the bolt in the headset cap. If this does not help, knock the starnut deeper as described above. If the play only occurs in a certain range of steering angles, check that the headset is xed properly in the frame
Remove the seat cushion and check that all bolts are tight. Next check that all bolts holding the seat frames to the frame are tightened. Do not overtighten the bolts on the seat as this will over stress it and lead to long term damage.
Try tightening the bolt at the base of the tiller arm. If this makes no difference, The shims on your stem may be worn out. Contact your optima dealer for new shims.
All tubes are fastened to the brackets using zip ties, and are easily reattached. If the tubes have worn out, please contact optima and order new tubes. Have the mesuerments of the old tubes handy to get the right lengths.
Your wheels are most likley out of allignemtn. Refer to pages 10 and 11 of this manual.
Is the seat propely fastened to the frame and its brackets? Check the rear suspension bushing, it may be too tight or need lubrication (grease). Otherwise your headset may be causing the problem.
Optima bicycle models
38
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Page 25
Permitted bicycle usage
The following table denes the use for which each bicycle will be covered under warranty. Failure
to follow these guidelines and a resultant failure will not be covered by the warranty.
Rough
N N N N N N N Y N N N N N N
Stunt Riding
Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y Y
Daily Urban
20Kg 20Kg N 50Kg 50Kg 50Kg 50Kg N N 50Kg 50Kg 50Kg 50Kg 20Kg
Bicycle Model
Roads Commuting
Lynx Orca
Rider
Children’s Bicycle / toy Baron Low Baron Cobra Condor Dingo Dolphin Dragon Gimmic Hopper
Orynx
Stinger
Warranty permitted uses
Bike Holidays
Y Y Y N N N N N N N
Y
N N N Y
Y Y Y Y Y Y Y N N Y
Y Y Y
N N N Y Y Y Y N N Y Y Y Y N
Off road Riding
N N
N Y Y Y Y N N Y Y Y Y N
Road Racing
Downhill Racing Light Recreation N N N
N
Y N N N N N N Y N N N
N
N N
N N N N N
N
N N
N
N N N
N
Y
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
N
Touring
Baggage Rack (capacity) Y
Y Y Y Y Y N Y Y Y Y Y Y
Resources
Optima Factory
Optima Cycles Industriestraat 3a 1976 CS IJmuiden The Netherlands
Accessory list
To ensure your safety and maintain the quality of the parts on your bike, if you wish to upgrade or replace worn parts we suggest that you order these parts only from Optima, your Optima dealer or our representative. Certain parts on your bicycle are only available from Optima, whereas other parts can be bought at most bike stores.
· Mudguards
· Baggage Racks (Optima bikes can only be equipped with Optima baggage racks. Failure to use Optima racks will result in suspension malfunction and worse.)
· Bike luggage bags (See page 24, ‘Travelling with your recumbent’)
· Lighting systems (generator powered)
· Seats: S, M, L.
· Seat cushions (please include seat size in ordering information)
· Seat covers (please include seat size in ordering information)
· Chain tubes (Include bike model and your leg length in order)
· Extra long gear and braking cables (all above steering models need tandem cables for the rear brake and derailleur)
· Recumbent Chain (standard chains are much too short)
· Wheels: 16, 20 and 26 inch
· Quality tires: 16, 20 and 26 inch sizes. (Quality small tires, generator suitable tires of all sizes)
· Stems and Stem pivot shims
· Suspension pivots: bearings and bushings.
· Hydraulic and normal brake pads.
· Shock absorbers
· Suspension forks (for 20 and 26 inch wheel sizes)
· Rider brake bleeding kit
· 50 and 70mm chain rollers
· Low handlebar linkage system steering linkages, bushings and block
· Forks, linkage steering parts
tel: +31 (0)255 514 213 fax: +31 (0)255 email: info@optima-cycles.nl
40
Warning: Carrying out maintenance on your bike makes you
responsible for any work done! Make sure you know what you're
doing or seek the help of a qualied mechanic.
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Warranty
Terms and Conditions of Guarantee.
This section applies exclusively to French residents:
Optima states that this is a complete unique handcrafted frame built in the European community and complying to the EU safety regulations concerning handcrafted bicycles, customised to the individual users desires.
Optima’s craftsmanship can be displayed upon demand at its factory premises. None of Optima’s bicycles are tested as series bikes. However optima assures the user that this bicycle meets all safety requirements set for its frame and parts for strength and durability.
Fixation for lighting is available on all models: the customer is exclusively responsible for the installation and maintenance, or absence of a lighting system which is approved of by the local government or trafc safety authority.
The recumbent bicycle shall be referred to as ‘bicycle’ The manufacturer shall be referred to as ‘Optima’ The Bicycle owner shall be referred to as ‘end user’ Sales and maintenance representatives shall be referred to as ‘representative’
The Following guarantee is valid for Bicycles from Optima cycles, and only for bicycles bought from ofcial dealers or from Optima itself. No second hand bicycles shall be covered by this warranty. This warranty shall only cover materials, products and workmanship of the original manufacturer, Optima Cycles V.O.F. This warranty only applies in countries where Optima has an ofcial dealer or the country in which the customer bought the bicycle directly from Optima.
1)a) Optima guarantees that if any faults or damage occur to the frame as a result of material
or fabrication faults during the unlimited warranty period of 5 years for steel and 3 years for aluminium, that the bicycle shall be replaced or repaired, at the sole disgression of Optima or Optima’s representative. b) This guarantee will not cover the results normal wear and usage, including fatigue. c) After 5 years for steel frames and 3 years for aluminium frames, a limited warranty shall apply. d) In the event of replacement when the model or model version which is under scrutiny is no longer in production, Optima will, at its sole disgression, replace the frame with the most similar product available. e) replacement of parts or upgrading of componentry which the bicycle was not designed to accommodate may void the warranty.
2) a) The Bicycle should be constructed to the factory export stage by an identied mechanic
or representative. If this is not the case, parts of the warranty can become nullied. b) If it can be shown that an insufciently qualied person carried out signicant repairs on the bicycle, and faults occur as a result thereof, Optima is freed of any liability and obligation to rectify the damage.
3) a) Optima cannot be held responsible for any damage incurred during the transport and
delivery of the bicycle. b) Optima will under no circumstance be held responsible for delays in delivery of the bicycle.
4) a) the obligations of Optima are limited to reparation or replacement of the bicycle or parts
thereof which are defective. b) Under no circumstance will Optima be held responsible for damages or injury incurred to the rider or to any third party, or indirect costs as a consequence of malfunction of the bicycle. c) Decisions regarding the replacement or reparation of a bicycle or any part thereof, are exclusively left to Optima or Optima’s representative. d) Warranty reparation man-hour costs will be billed to the bicycle owner.
5) a) Never use a bicycle that shows signs of malfunction. b) In case the bicycle shows any
signs of serious malfunction or damage, the end user must contact Optima or the representative from whom the end user bought the bicycle. cd) Under no circumstance, shall this warranty cover damage or injury which occurs as a result of incorrect installation, improper treatment and use, intentional iniction of damage or unauthorized modications to the bicycle by or on behalf of the end
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user, with the exception of modications which have been approved by Optima. d) Under no circumstance will resultant problems from unattended malfunctioning of the bicycle be compensated by Optima. e) In case of increased damage as a result of using a damaged bicycle or end user negligence, which is deemed sufciently serious by Optima or Optima’s representative, Optima will be released of any obligations.
6) a) The warranty begins on the day of transfer of ownership of the bicycle to the end user. b) A completely lled in warranty card must be sent to Optima within one week of purchase of the bicycle. If this is not done, parts of the warranty may be annulled. c) This warranty will not be recognized and deemed invalid or if it can be proven that any fraud has been committed in the form of any modications to any part of this warranty.
Service at delivery
Your delarer will have assembeled you bicycle out of the box, assuring that all bicycle systems work correctly. The bicycle will be adjusted to t you properly and you will be given instruction in the use of all the bicycles systems.
8) a) It is of great importance to follow the maintenance recommendations as described in the user manual. b) Damage as a result of not following regular maintenance guidelines as described in the manual shall not be covered by this warranty. c) Keeping of records of maintenance at your dealer is of upmost importance. Make sure the dealer records work done in the service record boxes in pages 44 to 47.
9) a) In case of unforeseen complications in reparations to the bicycle, the cost quote shall be revised. b) Any concerns as to inconvenience or the costs of any reparation must immediately be voiced to Optima or Optima’s representative, and must be resolved before repairs can continue. c) If the end user does not communicate dissatisfaction in good time, Optima will repair the bicycle to the satisfaction of its requirements. d) Optima will not be held responsible for costs or events that transpire as a result of repairs or reparation duration. e) When necessary, Optima or a representative will contact the end user to negotiate.
10) If sufcient reparations such that make the bicycle roadworthy again in accordance with Optima’s specication for correct function, as deemed by Optima or Optima’s representative, cannot be carried out in situ, the extra transport costs shall be billed to the end user. Article 3 applies to this transport.
11) This guarantee is only valid for the original owner of the bicycle, whose name is clearly visible on both the product registration form and top of this warranty, whose name is in the customer records of Optima. If the original papers cannot be produced and/ or there is cause for suspicion, all costs for parts and work hours in reparation will be billed to the end user.
12) a) Complaints regarding the behavior or decisions of Optima or Optima’s representative must be submitted by letter. The complaint and circumstance must be fully described in the letter of dispute. b) Within one week of receiving your complaint Optima will contact you to conrm the reception of your complaint.
13) A bicycle may not be covered by warranty if it can be shown that it has been used in a manner other than intended by Optima. Refer to the table in the section ‘Bicycle use
categories’ an overview of the permitted uses of each bike model.
Dealers Stamp:
Comments and exchanged parts:
Service 2
This service is to be carried out no longer than 3 months or 500 km (300 mi) from the time of purchase, to ensure all parts are working properly and make adjustmets adjust for setting in of cables and spokes. This is an important service, not to be missed.
Dealers Stamp:
Comments and exchanged parts:
44
45
Page 28
Service 3
Service 5
Service 3
This service is to be carried out no longer than 6 months or 3000 km (2000 mi) from the time of purchase.
Dealers Stamp:
Comments and exchanged parts:
Service 4
This service is to be carried out no longer than 12 months or 6000 km (4000 mi) from the time of purchase.
This service is to be carried out no longer than 1.5 years or 9000km (5500 mi) from the time of purchase.
Dealers Stamp:
Comments and exchanged parts:
Service 6
This service is to be carried out no longer than 2 years or 12’000 km (7500 mi) from the time of purchase.
Dealers Stamp:
Comments and exchanged parts:
46
Dealers Stamp:
Comments and exchanged parts:
47
Page 29
Service 7
This service is to be carried out no longer than2.5 years or 15’000km (9000mi) from the time of purchase.
This is your own copy of the warranty data. Please ll this page in fully.
Model name:
Dealers Stamp:
Comments and exchanged parts:
Service 8
This service is to be carried out no longer than 3 years or 18’000km (11000mi) from the time of purchase. This is the last registered service in this book. Please continnue having you bicycle checked at 6 month, 3000 km (2000mi) intervals to ensure your bicycle is kept in an optimal state.
Dealers Stamp:
Comments and exchanged parts:
Frame Number
Date of purchase (dd-mm-yyyy)
Purchased from:
Dealer modications at purchase
48
49
Page 30
Warranty Form
Please ll in this form completely.
This section comprises one (1) single side printed sheet, printed as a part of the ofcial Owners Manual.
Please cut this page out and send it to Optima Cycles to activate your guarantee. See reverse side for address.
WARRANTY FORM
Send this warranty form to:
Model name:
Frame Number:
Date of purchase (dd-mm-yyyy) , , 20
Purchased from:
Name of bicycle owner:
Street name and house number:
City/Town:
Post code: Province/ state:
Country:
Telephone:
50
Warranties department,
Optima Cycles V.O.F
Industriestraat 3a
1976 CS IJmuiden
The Netherlands
51
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