Oliver Instrument Model 600 Drill Pointer - Manual Grinder

■i

i

7

;•

& r \ i (P P

-.■>* |

\

I

'

2SC«*

V i w V

:

S2&

V

DIRECTIONS

for

INSTALLING

:

5

.

:

OPERATING

and

i

S'

I

t

I?

REPAIRING

:

i

r

'

5

;

OLIVER

DRILL

c

MODEL

POINTER

600

.

OLIVER INSTRUMENT COMPANY

ADRIAN, MICHIGAN

U.S.A.

INDEX

Airdraulic Infeed Unit • . • •

Belt
Bushings For Three Flute Drills
Carriage Feed Screw and Nut

Carriage Repair
Center Assembly

Change Gear Assembly ...............

Checking of Drills ...................

Chisel Point Adjustment* • • •

Chuck Adjustment .......

Chuck Assembly • . ...................

Chuck Failure and Repair . . .
Chuck Wrench
Chucking Large Drills

Clearance Adjustment ..............................................

Coolant System . .
Cross Section Drawings - Airdraulic Feed Unit.

Dressing of Grinding Wheel •

Electricals ...............................

Filter
Four Flute Drills . . . c «■ .
Gear Shifter
Gringing A Drill.
Grinding Wheel Mount
Grinding Wheel Specifications
Grinding Wheel Spindle. • - •
Included Angle Adjustment • •
Included Angle Chart • • • •
Installation Instructions • •

Lubrication .... ...............

Motor • .......................................................................

Numerically Controlled Drilling (Special Point)

Oil Pump
Operating Clutch
Operating Instructions

Operating Knob. ...

Parts List
Quill Bearing Assembly
Quill Drive Assembly

Repair Instructions ................................................

Setting Gage

Shear Pin Replacement ............................................

Sub-Jaws

Three Flute Drills ................ ...........................

Wet Grinding ............................................................

Wheel Guard ......................................................................

.............................................

...................

..........................

...................

..................

..........................................

...............................

...................

...............

.......................................................................

.......................................................

....................................................

................................................

...............................................................

.......................................................................

... •

...

..............................................

...

..............................

Body Assembly • • • •
Body Sub-Assemblies .
Carriage Assembly • .
Chuck Assembly • • •
Chuck (isometric View)

.....................

............................................

.....................

...

...

...................

...

15, 28, 29

3

35
24

24

7, 9

26

37
13

18, 19

21

8, 17, 18, 19, 21

8

16

13

4

29
32

33
34

31

30

7, 25

3, 27

5

9, 36

. 26

6

27

4o

22
11
12

3

^ 15

38, 39

4i, la, 1+3

11, 35

3, 27

24
23

26

22
24

17

25

17

7, 9

22

6

4

1

SERIAL

NO.

P

c

FIG. I

INSTALIATION

, OPERATION AND REPAIR MANUAL

FOR THE OLIVER "MODEL 600" DRILL POINTER.

This manual is very important and should be read thoroughly by all concerned
before attempting to do any work on the machine.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

When removing the crate from this machine do not take the unit off the skids
until after the drill pointer has been moved to the department or location
where the machine will be utilized.

We recommend the placement of the drill
of the tool grinding equipment. Many times drill pointers are placed in the
production area and quite often the machine is operated by several people with
no one having responsibility for maintaining proper care. If possible, choose
a location that will permit proper illumination of the chuck area
allow the operator to set the drill accurately and to stop the grinding when
the drill

shows a proper cutting edge.

Check the shipment carefully to make certain that you do not misplace any of
the standard accessory items. The machine is shipped with two sets of sub-jaws

(one set is usually mounted in the chuck), a chuck wrench, a V-belt and also a

pointer in the tool room with the rest

. This will

grinding wheel and diamond dresser which are already affixed to the machine.

If the machine is of the wet type you will also receive a water pump and tank
assembly. If you have purchased the "airdraulic infeed" type machine you will
also receive a combination air regulator and lubricator and a special grease gun.

After the machine has been placed in the proper position, remove the belt guard.
The large T shaped chuck wrench sent with the unit can be inserted through the

drilled openings in the belt guard to remove the three socket set screws that
hold the guard in position. Next, remove the steel straps and the wooden block

ing that support and hold the hinged motor. Clean all the rust preventative


grease from the finished surfaces of the machine.
Remove the machine from the skid and set it in a level position on the floor.

It is satisfactory to use a standard level for checking purposes.

The majority of the machines shipped from the factory are completely wired and

it is only necessary to supply power to the disconnect switch. IMPORTANT: When

making the connection be certain the motor is running in the right direction.

The correct rotation is clockwise as you face the pulley end of the motor and
is indicated by an arrow on the wheel guard. Running the machine backwards
will cause damage.

At this point take the V-belt (packed separately) and mount it around the two
upper pulleys and the motor pulley at the bottom. The motor pulley can be

raised to accommodate the belt since the motor is mounted on a hinged bracket
to provide permanent tension while the eccentric quill revolves. The belt
guard can now be mounted on the machine once again.

3

:

COOIANT SYSTEM
If you have purchased a wet type machine, additional work will be required to

set up the coolant system. Place the tank, complete with motorized pump and

settling section, at the back right hand side of the machine. Hook up the
large diameter hose with the outlet on the bottom of the pan at the back side
of the machine. Drop the opposite end into the settling area of the tank.

Take the small diameter rubber hose and fasten one end to the small pipe which

projects from the top of the motorized pump. Connect the opposite end of this
hose with the fitting located on the top of the machine. The motorized pump
power supply should be connected at this time.

We do not manufacture this tank and pump assembly but the builder's name can be
found on the tank lid and on the motor. The proper pump rotation is found on
the motor plate. Centrifugal pumps of this type will usually pump some coolant
even if run backward but it should be run in the direction shown on the motor
to make certain the pump delivers full volume. For service on this pump and/or

tank we suggest you contact the manufacturer.

The water pan on this machine is designed so there will be about l/2" to 3/^"
depth of coolant at all times. The reason for this is to keep the larger or
heavier particles in the pan. There are actually two return openings for
drainage from the pan to the water tank

. If it is determined that coolant
accumulation in the pan is not desirable the return hose can be connected to
the other opening and this will drain the pan completely. This will cause all
of the grit to travel with the coolant and the tank will have to be cleaned

quite frequently.

The coolant mixture should be about an 80 to 1 ratio.

Coolant that is too thick has a tendency to load the grinding wheel and con



tributes to possible burning of the drill.

The use of coolant is not always necessary but we strongly suggest using it in

three specific instances, (l) Large diameter drills, (2) drills that require
a great amount of stock removal, and (3) drills made of carbon steel. High
speed steel drills in the smaller size range can be ground wet or dry since the

amount of heat generated during the grinding operation is minimal.

LUBRICATION

There are three oil level gages on the operating side of the machine. Two of the
gages can be found on the pedestal and the third will be found on the chuck
bearing support. Check the level in the oil gage found at the right, next to
the flute selector lever.

a further supply must be added to bring it up to the proper level.

If the oil is low or if you cannot see any oil at all

A

pipe plug
will be found on top of the machine, shown as B, figure 1, page 2, and this
should be removed and the oil added at this point. We recommend SAE 20 machine
oil (S.S.U. 300 viscosity at 100° F) such as Indoil #31 or equivalent.

The oil may not appear in the other gage in the pedestal until the machine has
been started and circulation begun. It will take about four quarts of oil to
fill

the reservoir. When the machine is started, the oil will be pumped to

the other chamber and as the oil gage goes down further oil can be added.

4

The chuck on the machine has been equipped with a separate oil reservoir. The

sight gage will be found on the chuck bearing support. The oil should be main
tained at this level.
the top of the chuck and the same SAE 20 machine oil should be added through

A

l/2" pipe plug, shown as GO, figure 7, will be found at

this opening.



There is one oiler found on the machine and it is shown as D in figure 1, page

2. This oiler lubricates the hand wheel bearing on the carriage infeed and the

use of standard machine oil will be satisfactory.

There are a few Alemite grease fittings on the machine and on the chuck. They

should be filled

before starting the machine. The fittings are marked as C in

figure 1, page 2. If the machine receives a fair amount of use they should

receive a shot of grease daily.

We recommend the use of Alemite #33 or the

equivalent.

The machine is equipped with an oil filter.

equipped with a petcock and this should be opened and drained approximately
every two weeks. It will be necessary to open the screw at the top of the
filter to permit air to enter so that the material will flow from the bottom

The bottom of the filter is

of the filter. Allow the filter to drain just long enough to make certain there
is no contaminating material.

IMPORTANT

be completely drained and a new supply added. The cartridge in the filter

should also be replaced at this time. Thereafter, the cartridge should be
replaced approximately every three to six months depending on the use of the

. After the machine has been in use for about 30 days the oil should

machine. The oil should be changed periodically.

The drain plug for the chuck is shown as FF, figure 7*

two body sections are found near the two oil level gages,

The drain plugs for the

One is shown as P,

figure 1, page 2.

GRINDING WHEEL

The Oliver model 600 drill
with steel back construction.

pointer uses a 9" x 2" x 5” cup type grinding wheel

A

wheel is supplied with the machine as standard

equipment and usually carries the specification 32A702-J12-VBEP. Details of the
wheel are shown in figure 2, page 40. The spindle speed is 2200 RPM. The
machine can also be equipped with green grit silicon carbide grinding wheels for
use in sharpening tungsten carbide tipped drills

We would also recommend another procedure when it becomes time to change the

•

grinding wheel. This is an excellent opportunity to check for any end play in

the grinding wheel spindle.

The correct procedure for doing this work is shown

on page 22 under the heading "Grinding Wheel Spindle".

5

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

Drills ground on the Oliver Model 600 Drill Grinder are chucked in a two jaw

self-centering chuck which revolves while the drill is being ground. A special
type of point is produced which will require less torque and thrust and conse
quently less horse power for the same speed and feed when compared with the
conventional constant clearance type of point.

On the Oliver Point there is less clearance at the outer edge but greater clear

ance toward the center of the tool.

This produces a much stronger cutting edge

and provides sufficient clearance for the heaviest feeds which you might employ

on your drilling equipment.

Drills can generally be ground with included point angles of 80° to l60°.
Chisel angles from 90° to l4o° are obtainable. Variable clearance can also be
generated by use of a simple hand wheel control. With these adjustable features

many different kinds of drill points can be ground.
The Oliver Point actually requires less chisel angle than drills ground in any

other manner. We do not depend upon this angle for clearance at the center of
the tool. Chisel angles as produced by twist drill manufacturers range from
approximately 120° to 135° • The Oliver Point works best with a chisel angle of

about 100° to 120°. The machines are adjusted at the factory to produce a

chisel angle of approximately 110°.

In the following operating instructions we will make reference to descriptive

designations by means of a letter and they will be found on figure 1, page 2.
This will apply to both the wet and dry type machines. If you have purchased
the Model 600 drill

pointer complete with airdraulic infeed you will find
additional instructions on pages 15 and l6 and reference will also be made to
figure 4, page l4.





The drill

chuck and bearing assembly E, figure 1, page 2, can be moved to

permit the grinding of various included point angles. This is accomplished by
means of loosening a simple T-handle located on the back side of the chuck base.
As a starter, we would suggest that you position the chuck to grind an included
angle of

118° which is considered standard. Graduations will be found on the

lower outside edge of the chuck base.
In figure 1 you will note that handle F represents a combination diamond

dressing unit and setting gage. At this time we wish to consider the dressing
of the grinding wheel. In order to eliminate any possible interference, move

the carriage to the left by turning hand wheel G, figure 1, anti-clockwise to
the limit. The dressing of the wheel is accomplished in an area hidden from
the view of the operator.

In order for the operator to be visibly

certain that the diamond Is gradually
approaching the grinding wheel for dressing purposes, push handle F toward the
back of the machine to Its limit. Then slowly feed carriage toward the grind


ing wheel by rotating hand wheel G in a clockwise direction. Continue moving
the carriage inward until the setting gage blade is approximately l/8" from

6

the face of the grinding wheel,

Make certain that knob M is turned clockwise to

its limit and then start the motor which will revolve the grinding wheel.
Position handle F approximately half way back toward the operator and rock it

back and forth while feeding the carriage to the right with hand wheel G.
Contact will shortly be made with the face of the grinding wheel and the dress
ing can be completed. IMPORTANT: When installing a new diamond in the holder,
please make certain it projects only about l/l6" from the setting gage. This
is shown graphically in the upper left hand corner of figure 11, page 3^*

At this point, please make certain that lever H is placed in one of the two

neutral positions. The markings will be found on the front of the machine,
are now ready to grind a new point on a twist drill

of

your selection.

There are two sets of chuck sub-jaws "I" supplied with the machine and the

You

smaller range of drill sizes will be taken care of by the set that is already

mounted in position in the chuck. This particular set of sub-jaws will take

care of drills

from l/2" to 1-5/8" diameter. The other set of sub-jaws will

accommodate drills from 1-5/8" to 3" diameter.
Each sub-jaw is held in place with a socket head cap screw and can easily be

changed with a minimum of effort. The mating sides of the master jaws and
sub-jaws should be wiped clean when changes are made since foreign matter can
cause an off center grind. The sub-jaws are marked R and L as are the master

jaws and it is preferable to match them up to secure greatest accuracy. We
prefer that you start with a two flute drill approximately 1" in diameter for
your initial

test grind.



Move setting gage F away from the operator toward the rear of the machine to

its limit

amount of projection of the drill when it is mounted in the chuck,

This places the setting gage in correct position to control the

.

Place the
twist drill through the back end of the chuck bearing E until it almost touches
setting gage F

.

The chuck wrench which is supplied with the machine, can then be placed in one

of two locations on the periphery of the chuck which is Tabled J in figure 1.
Before snugging up the drill be sure the lands of the drill are placed approxi

mately in mid-position in the jaws in accordance with the instruction plate K

mounted on the front of the machine. When sharpening very large drills a

special chucking procedure is employed as far as location of the drill is
concerned when locked in the jaws. Please refer to page l6 for detailed infor

mation. Figure 13, page 36, also shows the correct manner of positioning

smaller drills

in

the sub-jaws. Note that dimensions X and Y are to be

approximately equal. This does not influence the type of point obtained but

does give the most area of contact for gripping purposes.

The center rest assembly L should be moved toward the chuck until the point of
the center makes contact with the center in the shank of the drill. Tighten

the sub-jaws fully with the chuck wrench. You will note we have gripped the
drill

on

the only accurate surfaces available, the two ground margins and the

center. If the center in the shank of the tool is mutilated we would suggest

the use of an auxiliary sleeve to achieve maximum accuracy.





7

CAUTION: REMOVE THE CHUCK WRENCH BEFORE OPERATING THE MACHINE.

If the chuck wrench is inadvertently

left in the chuck it will jam against the
base of the unit when the machine is placed in operation. A shear pin is incor
porated in the design of the machine to prevent any further damage other than the

breaking of the shear pin itself
It is necessary to coordinate the revolving of the drill in the chuck with the

oscillation of the grinding wheel spindle.

.

After the drill has been clamped in
the chuck as outlined on the preceding page rotate the chuck away from the oper
ator until the cutting lip is parallel with the top or end of setting gage F
The chuck wrench can be used as a lever to move the chuck. Remove the chuck

.
wrench from the chuck if it was used as a lever.
In order to insure the proper number of turns of the chuck in relation to the

oscillation of the grinding wheel lever H should be moved until it engages in the
position marked for two flute drills.

If handle or lever H fails to engage read
ily in the two flute position a very small movement of the chuck will take care
of the difficulty. Do not attempt to engage lever H while grinding wheel is
oscillating. It is now necessary to pull handle or setting gage F back toward

the operator as far as it will go.

Engage the push button on the electrical control box. This will start the
rotation of the grinding wheel spindle. During this set-up procedure the
operating knob M has been in the clockwise position. Rotate knob M to the
counter clockwise position and the chuck will be set in motion. You will also
note that the grinding wheel spindle is now oscillating.







IMPORTANT: If the chuck does not revolve it is probably because the shear pin

has broken for safety purposes

• As previously explained, this usually happens

as a result of leaving the wrench in the chuck during the operating procedure.

Instructions are provided on how to replace this shear pin in the "Repair Section"

of this manual. Please refer to "Chuck Drive Shear Pin" information found on

page 17.

NOTE: If you have purchased a Model 600 drill
draulic infeed, please see instructions on page 15. Disregard the following

pointer with the automatic air-

paragraph since it will only apply to units having the manual infeed.

The sharpening of the drill
wise and feeding the carriage toward the grinding wheel until the drill begins

is

now accomplished by turning hand wheel G clock



to spark. This operation is continued until the operator feels that both cutting

lips have been sharpened. For the first few days the drills should be fed in

rather slowly until you become accustomed to the proper rate of infeed.

Now that the drill has been sharpened, move the carriage to the left by rotating

hand

wheel G anti-clockwise which takes the drill

ing wheel. The operator should next turn knob M clockwise which will stop the

away from the area of the grind

motion of the chuck and the oscillation of the grinding wheel spindle. It is not
necessary to stop the motor.

Generally speaking, if much more than l/l6" of stock on small drills
of stock on large drills has been ground off the end of the drill

or

the chisel

l/8"



8

angle will increase to a dimension that might be objectionable. We then

recommend loosening the drill in the chuck and resetting it forward until it

almost touches setting gage F once again. As previously outlined, make certain

the cutting lip is parallel with the top or end of the setting gage. Then feed
the carriage to the right once again with hand wheel G for a short distance

until the new grind reduces the size of the chisel angle.

The center rest assembly should be moved to the extreme left in order to give
the operator room enough to reach into the chuck to remove the drill

after the

jaws have been loosened. You will note there are two adjustments on the center

rest assembly for controlling the position of the center.
The center rest assembly will take care of drills

up to a

maximum length of

approximately 28". This is more than enough for any standard length drill.

If you have any special extra length drills

handle contact us and advise us of the total overall length of the drills

involved.

We will be able to quote you on a special set of bars to increase

on

hand that the machine will not

the capacity of the machine as far as length is concerned.

SPECIAL SUB-JAWS

Occasionally we find users of our equipment who have a supply of short length
taper shank drills

the sub-jaws and the drill
with the setting gage in the proper manner. It will thus be necessary to
purchase a special set of cut out jaws. We do not suggest the use of these

cut out sub-jaws for longer length tools since they are lacking in gripping

. Under these conditions the taper shank interferes with

cannot project far enough forward to make contact

area. The cut out sub-jaws are Part No. 6258.

Drills with very small included point angles may require a special set of

sub-jaws. We are thinking of countersinking type tools and in various sizes
the grinding wheel will run into the sub-jaws if the standard sets are used.

Certain types of drills having a very slow spiral or straight flutes cannot

be chucked firmly in the standard sub-jaws. If you will supply us with a

sketch or sample tool we will be glad to quote or submit drawings showing a
suggested design of sub-jaw. In these cases the sub-jaws are usually two

half round sections and are designed for only one size of drill.

POINTING OF FOUR FLUTE DRILLS

The

operation of pointing a four flute core drill

pointing of a two flute drill

with very few exceptions.
will be ground in one continuous motion. Follow the same procedure as
outlined in the instructions for two flute drills,

is

except:

identical

All four flutes

with the

a.) The drill is not pushed quite as far forward to the setting gage and

should be short of the gage by about l/8"

. Experience will show that larger

9

drills will probably produce best results when they are set away from the gage
while smaller drills can be placed almost against the setting gage when making
the initial set-up. We would like to point out that this is not critical but
simply changes the shape of the core drill at the center area

. This is of no

consequence since this area does not do any cutting anyway.

b.) When clamping the four flute drill in the sub-jaws a slightly different
procedure is followed for best results. The width of land is narrower on a

four flute core drill and the back edge of the land should be placed in the

center of the vee in the jaw. Figure l4, page 36, describes this placement

in detail. Note that dimensions X and Y should be approximately equal. This
has nothing to do with the type of point obtained but once again does provide
the greatest gripping area. The tail center assembly L can now be pushed
forward or to the right so that the center can make contact with the center
in the shank of the tool. Tighten the drill in the chuck with the wrench

provided with the machine.

c.) It is now necessary to properly time or position the drill for the sub

sequent grinding operation. Roll the chuck away from the operator so that
the cutting lip is approximately parallel to the top of the setting gage
similar to the instructions covering two flute drills

. In order to roll the

chuck, handle H must be in one of the two neutral positions. The drill

manufacturers utilize different shapes of flutes and this inconsistency may
make it necessary to change the setting. In some cases, instead of having
the cutting lip parallel with the top of the setting gage it will be necessary
to roll the chuck even further away from the operator. This could place the

cutting lip of the drill 15 or 20 degrees below the parallel position in order
to get the best grind.
correct gearing for grinding four flute drills

Move handle H into a vertical position to provide the

.

d.) At this point the operator must move setting gage handle F back to the

front position to its limit.

This will eliminate any interference with the

grinding wheel. The operator can now start the motor which revolves the

grinding wheel. Turn knob M anti-clockwise which will then revolve the drill

chuck and oscillate the grinding wheel spindle. You will note that the chuck
revolves at a slower speed in order to take care of the greater number of
flutes that must be ground during each revolution. The operation now becomes
identical to the grinding of two flute drills.

In the grinding of a four flute drill the center section of the end of the

drill is not touched and consequently leaves a nib. After several sharpenings
it will be necessary to grind off this nib by hand so the projection is never
too great at the center of the drill.

The point of the drill will show an unusual shape primary and secondary at the
periphery of the tool.

clearance is required at the outside edge of the cutting lip in contrast to

This type of grind is accomplished purposely. Less

the inner portion for any given rate of feed per revolution. Therefore, please
do not attempt to regrind the drill

when you see this condition.

10

POINTING OF THREE FLUTE DRILLS

The operation of pointing three flute core drills

is

almost identical to the
pointing of four flute core drills with one basic exception. We employ the use
of a two jaw chuck on our machine which obviously is not the best gripping
method for a three flute drill.

We therefore recommend the use of split bush
ings which can be placed around the outer surface of the drill in the form of
a sleeve. A suggested design for the split bushings is shown in figure 12,



page 35*

At this point the three flute drill,

in the chuck. The chuck is then tightened on the split bushing which firmly
grips the three flute drill

in an

complete with the spilt bushing, is placed

accurate manner. The only other change is
the fact that the gear selector lever H must be placed in a right hand position
where the three flute designation appears in order to provide correct gearing.

INCLUDED POINT ANGLES

One of the most important considerations when sharpening a drill is the in

cluded point angle. This can be varied on the Oliver Model 600 by swiveling
the chuck. This is accomplished by loosening the T-handle found at the lower
back side of the chuck and bearing assembly. Graduations will be found along
the lower outside area of the chuck base to indicate the included angle that



will be obtained during the grinding operation.

118° is considered a standard included point angle for general purpose work.
Your own shop practice will dictate whether or not you wish to have larger or

smaller included point angles for materials such as brass, bronze, stainless

steel, forgings, etc.
that it will vary by a small amount from time to time. This is caused by

several reasons

.

heavy web and variation in setting the drill to the gage will all have a

If you measure the included point angle you will find

Excessive stock removal, different shape of flute, extra

tendency to change the final included point angle.

The Model 600 drill

the range of point angles available to an approximate minimum of 80° and a
maximum of about l60°.

of the cup wheel also imposes a further limitation on the larger sizes of

drills.

Please refer to figure 3> page 12, which gives greater detail

pointer has certain mechanical limitations which confine

This is not true of all sizes. The width of the face

regarding this matter.

You will note that a 2-3/4" diameter drill

angle smaller than 100°. If you will refer to the upper right hand drawing

you will find that we cannot grind an 80° included point angle because this

lengthens the cutting lip and the grinding wheel is not capable of covering

cannot be ground with an included

the entire area • The table at the bottom of figure 3 shows the maxlTmrm drill
size that can be ground with the included point angle that is indicated.

11

CHISEL ANGLES

When a drill

conditions you will develop an angle of about 110° to 115° when measuring
from the cutting lip around to the chisel angle • We have found over the years

is

ground on the Oliver Model 600 Drill Pointer under standard

that such an angle produces the best all around results on the Oliver Point.

Sometimes it is desirable to change the chisel angle and this can be done

quite readily by two different methods. The drill

can be pulled away from the

setting gage or moved past the normal setting gage position in a lengthwise
manner to vary the chisel angle. If the setting is changed in this manner the

clearance that is ground on the cutting lip will not be disturbed.

You can also vary the chisel angle by positioning the cutting lip above or

below the setting gage. This method will also change the clearance and it will

be necessary to vary the clearance setting by turning handwheel N, figure 1,

page 2, to produce more or less clearance. It will take just a little

experimenting to produce the results desired.

Under normal circumstances, if the chisel angle is increased, the hole size

produced by the twist drill will be somewhat larger. If the chisel angle is

reduced the hole size produced will be much closer to the diameter of the drill

being used. Unfortunately, when you drill holes close to size you then pick up

an increased amount of margin wear which means greater damage and shorter life

to the drill.

CLEARANCE ANGLES

As previously mentioned, the Oliver Point does not employ a constant clearance

angle. The clearance is increased as the center of the drill
regardless of the setting made with handwheel N, figure 1, page 2. The

clearance is variable in that a relatively greater or lesser amount can be

is

approached

automatically ground at any particular point by use of this hand wheel.

As the hand wheel is rotated a cam adjustment is made to generate the necessary

clearance for the material to be drilled. A series of numbers can be noted
through a sight glass found at 0, figure 1, page 2, at the top of the machine.
The numbers are graduated from 1 to 8 inclusive

The numbers do not indicate any actual degree of clearance and are simply an

indication of the amount of clearance to be obtained. If a greater amount of

clearance is required the hand wheel must be rotated so that a larger number

appears in the sight glass.

Therefore, minimum clearance can be obtained on

this machine with the #1 setting and maximum clearance will be obtained, with

.

the #8 setting.
We feel certain that the ability to obtain any combination of point angle,

chisel angle and clearance angle will produce the most efficient drill

for your production needs

•

point

13

H

A

P

:

F IG . 4

INSTRUCTIONS FOR OPERATING OLIVER MODEL 600 DRILL
POINTER EQUIPPED WITH AUTOMATIC AIRDRAULIC INFEED

The automatic feed operates by means of air pressure and oil.

To fill

the unit
with oil, apply the special oil gun furnished with the machine to connection Q,
figure k, page l4. Make certain there is no air in the lines or connections.
Use a very heavy oil such as S.A.E. 120 or l40. You will find a small plunger

R, figure b, page l4, just opposite the gun connection. There are two notches
or grooves cut on the shaft of this plunger. Force the oil into the cylinder

until the second groove appears at which time the unit is full.
An air regulator and lubricator are sent with the machine for installation be

tween the air line and the feed unit.

They should be attached to the machine



as shown in figure 4, page l4 or attached to any adjacent wall of the building

that might be nearby. Attach the air line to pipe connection S, figure b
page lb

. Set the regulator for 50 pounds pressure. If the unit will operate

with less pressure it will be to your advantage since the feed will operate

,

much better. The minimum infeed rate should be approximately .010" per minute.
The maximum rate of infeed should be approximately .100" per minute.

The knurled knob T controls a needle valve which regulates the speed or rate
of infeed. The button U is the air reverse valve. The knurled dial V is the
micrometer adjustment for regulating the amount of stock to be removed from
the drill. This unit reads exactly like a micrometer. The Allen socket head
pipe plug W is for bleeding the air out of the oil chamber. Loosen this plug

occasionally (do not take it out) and operate the unit a few times to let the

air work out around the threads of the plug. Air in the oil chamber will

cause the feed to be jumpy and uneven.

To test the operation of the unit, set the air pressure at 50 pounds. Tighten

needle valve T to the limit and then open one full turn. Set dial V for .100"
stock removal and then pull button U all the way out. The chuck will now start
to move toward the grinding wheel. When it has moved .100" it will stop. Now

push button U in to the limit and the chuck will quickly back away from the

grinding wheel.

CAUTION:

feeding cycle again. The quick return of the carriage assembly has drained

Do not immediately attempt to put the "airdraulic" unit through a

the oil chamber and about 30 seconds are required to let this cylinder refill

with oil.

When operating the machine, this 30 second period of waiting would

normally be spent as the time required for changing the drill in the chuck.

If any attempt is made to operate the automatic feed unit back and forth in

a rapid manner it will cause an accumulation of air in the cylinder.

This will

make it necessary to bleed the air off once again.
To grind a drill,

Set dial V at about .030" to .050" to control the amount of stock removal.
Set the needle valve T at position 2 or 3 to control the rate of infeed,
is now necessary to feed the entire carriage toward the grinding wheel in a
manual manner until the drill

set up the drill as previously instructed in this manual.

just makes contact with the grinding wheel.

It

15

After contact is made with the grinding wheel discontinue the manual infeed and
pull button U to the outer limit and the carriage and chuck will automatically
feed inward. Regulate needle valve T so that the drill

can be fed to the

grinding wheel as rapidly as possible without causing any burning of the tool.

After a few days of operation you will be able to judge the proper setting or

rate of infeed for the various sizes of drills involved.

The machine may also be operated manually at any time,
desirable on the smaller sizes of drills

Dial V must be at the "zero

” position when the manual operation is employed.

since the grinding cycle is so short.

This is probably

CHUCKING LARGE DRILIS

The gripping of larger size drills (approximately 2" to 3

secure manner is often difficult because of the variance in the back taper

found on the O.D. of the tool.

Please note the movable finger EE shown on the

isometric drawing of the chuck in figure 7> page 30. Figure 5, shown at the

” diameter) in a

bottom of the page, also shows the proper positioning.

Place the finger so that it assumes a position pointing toward the center area

of the chuck and make certain it is clamped firmly. After you have placed the
drill in the chuck and moved it to the setting gage for length, slowly rotate
the drill until the back side of the land comes in contact with the finger.
Clamp the drill in the chuck in this position. This will eliminate any move

ment of the drill because of grinding pressure.

The finger will not interfere with the grinding of small drills and can be

left in place if desired.

You will find it necessary to move the finger out

of position when grinding large size three flute drills with split bushings.



16.

ROTATE DRILL

UNTIL CONTACT

IS MADE HERE

CHUCKING LARGE: DRILLS

FIG.

5

DRILL MUST

PROJECT TO
SETTING GAGE

SERVICE AND REPAIR OF OLIVER

MODEL 600 DRILL POINTERS.

The remaining portion of this manual consists of instructions, cross section
prints and parts list to assist you in the proper care and maintenance of the
machine. Maintenance possibilities most likely to occur will be the adjustment

of the chuck after a period of time and perhaps the replacement of the shear

pin because the chuck wrench was not removed before commencing the grinding

operation

.

The proper method of handling these situations is outlined as well as several

others.

In the event the following instructions do not solve your difficulty

please contact us and outline the problem so we may assist you in correct



ing the problem. When ordering any repair parts be sure to provide information

concerning the serial number of the machine. The serial number will be found

both on the chuck and also on the top of the carriage in front of the chuck.

REPLACING CHUCK DRIVE SHEAR PIN

In the drive to the chuck there is a shear pin. This is a safety device to
protect the machine parts if something should inadvertently stop the chuck.
Many times the operator will leave the chuck wrench in the chuck while he is

doing other work and this is dangerous in two ways • It could cause personal

injury or break some part of the machine if the unit was accidently started.

If an operator becomes careless and starts the machine with the chuck wrench

in the chuck he will shear a small pin in the drive to the chuck. Follow

instructions below for replacing the shear pin.
Figure 9, page 32, is a cross-section of the body and main drive,

In the
lower light hand corner of this drawing will be found shear pin #6179* To get
to this shear pin, remove the belt guard and then remove the round cap #6177 •

An extra shear pin will be found in a cavity provided in this cap. The drive

shaft #6175

} is a floating shaft and on the end is a collar #6176. This shaft

and collar assembly can be pulled out of the machine and taken to a bench to
replace the shear pin.

entering into a bevel gear, #6171-

Figure 11, page 3k, shows the far end of shaft #6175

This bevel gear has a spline key, #6172.

When assembling this shaft it is necessary to slowly rotate it until the key

lines up with the keyway before the shaft can be pushed back into place.
This gear case is also an oil chamber and a gasket or Permatex must be used
when assembling the cap #6177 back on to the gear case. This is the most

common service required on this machine.

CAUTION

Do not attempt to use larger pins or steel pins when replacing this

:
safety shear pin. If this drive is made too positive then some other part of
the machine may be broken if the chuck will not turn.

17

MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT OF CHUCK

The following are preliminary instructions to the maintenance or service people.
From past experience we have found that many times the service man is called
because the drills are not performing satisfactorily.

The first thought of most

everyone is that the trouble is in the drill grinder and usually they thi

nk it
is in the chuck. We generally find the trouble is elsewhere. There are many
things that will cause a drill to produce oversize holes or to dull quickly.

We will cite a few examples and we suggest you check these possibilities before

attempting to do anything to the chuck.

Drills may be out of index, the web may be off center or a combination of both.
A drill that is bent will cause a poor point. The tools may have the wrong
point angle for the material being drilled. The drills may be ground with an
improper chisel point angle or may even be ground with incorrect clearance.

Figure 15, page 37 shows the method used to check a drill to see if the web is

on center. Place the drill on a surface plate and measure from the surface
plate to the lower end of the chisel point. Then turn the drill l80° to see
if both sides measure the same. Drills with the web out of center have one
flute shallower than the other. The shallow flute should be ground out either

by hand or on the Oliver Drill Point Thinner designed for this purpose until
both flutes measure the same depth at the point of the drill.

Figure 16, page 37 shows a method used to determine if a drill is out of index.
Place the drill on a surface plate and measure one-ha If the drill

diameter
from the surface plate to the lip at the outer end of the cutting edge. Hold
or clamp the drill in this position and measure to see that both lips measure

the same. Any out of index condition can be corrected on the Oliver Drill
Point Thinner. A drill can be checked for straightness by rolling it on a
surface plate.

to how close the hole will come to the size of the drill.

There is also some misunderstanding among users of drills as

Oversize holes may
be caused by spring in the drill press table or spindle, method of holding,
too great a chisel angle, etc.

A Drill Checking Gage complete with dial indicator for accurately comparing the
grind on each cutting lip is produced as a standard product of the Oliver
Instrument Company. We would be pleased to submit details and a quotation at

your request on this particular

checking gage.

Check to see if the drills are ground properly for the material being drilled.

We send a chart with each machine illustrating suggested included angles and

clearance settings. This guide should be hung near the machine so that the
operator can grind the proper points on the various drills. We ask that the
serviceman check these various items before working on the chuck. Many times
the serviceman spends hours working on the chuck and finds nothing wrong only
to discover later that the difficulty was in the grinding of the drill

or in

the geometry of the drill itself.

18

SERVICING THE CHUCK
This chuck will require some attention and care because of the conditions under

which it is operated. The wearing parts of this chuck are hardened steel. There

is a greasing system built in so when grease is forced in it pushes grit out.

The surplus grease and grit appearing on the chuck should be removed. There

should be a little

grease forced into the chuck weekly. When greasing the chuck

make sure the jaws are open to their limit. If grease is forced in when the

chuck jaws are in the closed position it will cause considerable difficulty.

The grease will fill

the cavity in the chuck and it will be almost impossible to
open the jaws because of excessive grease. If, after checking, it is determined
that the trouble is in the chuck, it can be adjusted and centered. This chuck

is a scroll type and is designed so very little

foreign matter can get into the

working parts. Usually it is only necessary to take up the wear in the parts.

The centering can be done without taking the chuck apart. Follow the in



structions closely.

Figure 8, page 31* is a cross section of the chuck and bearing assembly.
Above the cross section is a top view of the various chuck parts.

Figure 7 9

page 30 is an isometric drawing showing the chuck and bearing assembly.
First, we recommend greasing the chuck with the jaws open to their limit.

Run the chuck jaws in and out to the extreme positions several times • This
will work an adequate supply of grease into all the working parts of the chuck

so proper adjustments can be made.

To take up the wear of the chuck end-wise, or in line with the length of the
drill,

screws and care should be taken not to get them too tight, but still

tighten up on screws AA, figure 7 9 page 30. These are self locking

take up
all the wear in the parts. If these are fastened too tight the chuck jaws
will be difficult to move. They should move with tension,
wear

sideways, loosen lock screw BB and then tighten up on screw CC.

To take up the

the movement of the jaws and get this adjustment as tight as possible while

still

being able to move the chuck jaws. Tighten lock screw BB.

To center the chuck, make certain the surfaces where the sub-jaws contact
the chuck jaws are clean. We suggest first using chuck sub-jaws #6225>
figure 8, page 31« Clean the sub-jaws and bolt them in place.

The screws

holding the jaws want to be tightened up firm but not forced too tightly.

Loosen DD screws, figure 7, page 30, one at a time until all eight are
loose. Next, tighten each of the eight screws but only until the first

Check

contact is made. Bo not fasten them firmly. There are four centering screws,

#6227 for centering.

Place a ground arbor approximately 1" in diameter in the chuck and let it
extend out toward the grinding wheel about l-l/2

M or 2". Make sure the arbor
is long enough so the center can be used in the back end. Tighten the arbor
in the chuck while centering the back end. Mount a dial indicator in a

convenient area so the indicator point can touch the arbor in about the same
location as the point of a drill would be. We suggest moving the chuck to the
extreme left side of the carriage when centering. Be sure the chuck bearing

is fastened down tight to the carriage.

19

The usual procedure when checking a cylindrical surface is to immediately find

the high point. IMPORTANT:
the Oliver chuck.

The steps outlined below should be followed very carefully.

This is not the correct method when adjusting

First, take a reading on opposite sides of the arbor in line with the chuck

jaw movements. Disregard all other indicator readings. After the two opposing

readings have been made it is necessary to loosen the arbor in the jaws before

attempting to correct or minimize the differential. Two screws, #6227* figure

7, page 30, are in line with the chuck jaws and by loosening the one screw,

#6227, on the low side and tightening screw #6227 on the high side, the arbor

can be centered in the proper direction.

Be certain to tighten the arbor in
the chuck jaws once again before taking another reading with the dial indicator.
Usually it takes two or three adjustments to get this centered. At the factory
the differential is maintained at less than .002".

Next, there are two screws, #6227* for adjusting the chuck sideways, or at
right angles to the previous adjustment. Use the same procedure as before
and always remember - only read the indicator when in a position in line with
the direction of adjustment. Never tighten these screws, #6227> down too much.
If these screws are completely drawn down they will tighten the shell of the
chuck against the O.D. of the chuck scroll (#6201). This will cause the chuck

to operate with difficulty or may even lock the scroll so it cannot be turned.
When the chuck is centered, tighten all of the DD screws. We suggest at this
point you loosen each #6227 screw and tighten it just enough so it will not
drop or work out. Actually these screws are not needed once the chuck is

centered

It is usually advisable to check both sets of sub-jaws

.

. Remove the #6225

sub-jaws, figure 8, page 31> and put in the #6226 sub-jaws. Make sure there

is no grit or dirt under the sub-jaw before it is bolted in place. Put a 2"

or 2-1/4" arbor in the chuck and follow the same procedure as described before.

If the sub-jaws have not been reground, the two arbors should check very close

to the same reading on the indicator.
may need regrinding and we recommend the two sub-jaws be sent back to the
factory for this operation. If you attempt to grind these sub-jaws in your

However, if the sub-jaws are worn they

own plant we must warn you that both sides of both jaws must be ground straight

and true. The thickness from end to end must be exactly the same within .0002"
and the thickness on both sides on both jaws must be the same within .0005".
These sub-jaws are case hardened and if too much stock is ground off, or if
the pieces are heated too much in grinding, the sub-jaws will be soft and will
not stay accurate very long.

Usually this will correct any inaccuracy in the chuck. The whole operation
of centering the chuck requires but a few minutes and the chuck can be kept

as accurate as the work requires.

20

TO DISASSEMBLE THE CHUCK
The chuck can he disassembled very easily.

There is no danger provided no force
is exerted on any of the parts during disassembly. When reassembling the chuck
it will have to be adjusted to get it back on center. When dismantling the

chuck see Figure 7> P&ge 30 and Figure 8, Page 31 and proceed as follows:

1. Loosen all AA screws (Fig. 7)

2. Loosen screws BB and CC (Fig. 7)

3. Remove all four #6227 bolts

4. Remove all 8 DD bolts (Fig. 7)

The whole chuck assembly should come off easily.
on the sides of the chuck with a soft hammer will loosen it so it can be
pulled off the scroll gear #6201, Figure 8. Examine the teeth on the scroll
gear at this time. If the teeth are worn or damaged the scroll should be
rotated 180 degrees to provide added life. Most of the parts are hardened

Do not use force

. Light taps

and ground or have hardened and ground wear plates • As the chuck has been used
these parts have worn in to fit their contacting or mating parts. Therefore,
we recommend marking these parts in some manner while taking them apart so
they can be put back in the same relation as in the original assembly.

When reassembling this chuck, pack grease in and around all moving parts. After

reassembly, open the jaws up wide and pump grease in to fill
the chuck is well filled

with grease no water or dirt can get into the working

all cavities,

If

parts of the chuck.
TO REMOVE CHUCK AND BEARING ASSEMBLY

- FROM MACHINE

If it becomes necessary to return the chuck and bearing assembly to the factory

for service or repair, it can be taken off and returned as one unit,

only a few minutes to take it off.

Drain all the oil out of the chuck bearing
by removing the drain plug near the T-slot on the operating side. See FF
Figure 7> Page 30. Move carriage to the extreme outer limit. Remove the

It takes

,

grinding wheel cover plate #6241. Next, remove the grinding wheel and grinding
wheel mount as a single unit by taking off nut #6048. Caution: Do not remove

spindle #6042. Next, remove wheel guard #6240. The guard is held in place

with three bolts at the bottom.
There is a spring #6252 holding the chuck base in place,

a tendency to lift

the guard,

assembly with the hand wheel,

Move the carriage #6150 away from the main body

Loosen the T-handle which locks the chuck in

place and then swing the chuck head away from the body of the machine so that

This spring will have

it is parallel with the carriage.
Swing the chuck toward the operator until the T-bolt comes out of the T-slot

and

remove the T-slot bolt.

The unit can then be lifted up off the machine

There is an oil seal at the trunion where the chuck bearing pivots • (See

.

Figure 8, Page 31.) Be careful not to damage this seal. When returning this

21

unit make sure the centering bracket and center bracket bars are included also
along with all chuck sub-jaws. The center bars can be taken out of the chuck
bearing for shipping convenience.

GRINDING WHEEL SPINDLE

Figure 9, -page 32, shows the grinding wheel spindle assembly,

wheel spindle, #6042, is l/V eccentric in the quill, #6022.

The grinding

The spindle runs

on taper roller bearings and these bearings need taking up occasionally.
Loose bearings will cause a flat just back of the cutting edge on the drill.

In order to work on the spindle it is first necessary to remove the belt guard

and belt.

When removing the belt please note the downward pressure caused by

the weight of the motor which is mounted on a hinged bracket. The motor should

be lowered carefully in order to prevent damage. To eliminate the end play in

the wheel spindle loosen the rear spindle nut, #6050, (loosen locking screw

on nut) and tighten the front spindle nut #6o48. Take up the rear nut #6050
until you can feel a slight drag when turning the spindle and lock nut in place.
The taper roller bearings should run with no looseness or end play.

This machine is designed and constructed on the unit principle as can be seen
from the cross section prints. For instance, H in figure 1, page 2, is the
gear shift assembly seen in figure 10, page 33* M in figure 1, page 2, is the
operating wedge assembly seen in figure 10, page 33* N is the cam adjuster
assembly seen in figure 10, page 33> etc.

Figure 9> page 32, is a cross section of the main body assembly. This is made
up of three main castings. The lower part is the larger casting #6010. The

lower half of the quill bearing, #6020, is doweled and bolted to the quill
bearing base. The quill bearing assembly, consisting of the lower half, #6020,
and the upper half #6019> carries the grinding wheel spindle #6042, the quill
#6022, the clutch #6028, the gears #6025 and #6031, the cam adjuster assembly
and cam #6035* The whole quill bearing assembly can be taken off the main body

casting in one unit if it needs to be sent back to the factory for repair or
rebuilding

.
WHEEL
On machines bearing serial number G6053 or earlier the following procedure

should be noted. Refer to figure 11, page 3^-> and locate spring #6252 which

exerts pressure against the gear housing hold down plug #6251. The cotter key

GUARD INSTALLATION

shown at the top of the plug #6251 is not found on the earlier machines

mentioned above. (See guard removal instructions on page 21 under chapter

covering "To Remove Chuck and Bearing Assembly From Machine."

When reassembling the wheel guard to the machine it will be necessary to provide

some means of holding plug #6251 and spring #6252 in the wheel guard cavity
until you are able to slide it over the gear housing end plate. The plug can
then be released and the guard should be positioned so the bolt holes will line

up for fastening purposes

.

22

REMOVING QUILL BEARING ASSEMBLY

Remove the grinding wheel and the wheel guard #6240, figure 11, page 34. See
"Wheel Guard Installation". Remove "body cap #6018, and belt guard #6255* figure
9, page 32.

#6019.

The four smaller bolts hold the upper and lower halves of the quill

There are 8 deep counter bore bolt holes in the quill bearing cap

bearing together. The other four bolts hold the quill bearing assembly on the

body casting.

NOTE: From figure 9 7 page 32 there are two oil lines attached
to this assembly. When taking this assembly off, disconnect these oil lines
after the unit is lifted high enough to get a wrench into the opening.

OPERATING CLUTCH
The operating clutch is on the quill assembly shown in figure 9> page 32, and

consists of parts #6028, clutch bolt; #6032, clutch bolt lock; #6027> spring
and #6026 spring retainer.
become worn after long service and will need replacing.

The clutch bolt #6028 and clutch lock #6032

If the machine will

not start when operating the knob M, or if the machine thumps and makes the

chuck move a little

at

the same time, then it is an indication these parts

need replacing.
To replace these parts first remove the grinding wheel and the wheel guard

#6240. The cap, #6018, figure 97 page 32, should then be removed. It Is now

necessary to remove the quill bearing assembly and the following procedure

should be employed.

1

/

Remove the wheel mount #6047, the quill end plate #6045, the bearing end plate
#6040 and all eight (8) springs #6053* Perform the same work at the opposite

end of the assembly by removing the adjusting nut #6050, the pulley #6049, the

quill end plate #6045 and the bearing end plate #6o4l. It will not be necessary
to take the spindle #6042 out of the quill unless you want to check the taper
roller bearings. Take out all 8 fillister

head bolts in the deep counterbored

holes in the quill bearing cap #6019. This releases everything so the bearing

cap and quill can be taken off and placed on a bench,
held in place by part #6029 (this is a flanged hub),
have to come off the quill in order to remove clutch bolt #6028.

The idler gear #6031 is

Parts #6029 and #6031

The #6032
lock is riveted to the idler gear #6031. All other parts that can be inspected
should be checked before reassembly.

There is no timing of gears in this machine.
its adjuster #6067 be assembled back into proper place or the cam will not be

It is important that cam #6035 and

in proper relation to the grinding motion to produce the correct clearance.
Center the gear teeth on cam #6035> figure 97 page 32, 'with the gear teeth

on the cam adjuster #6067, figure 10, page 33*

If it is difficult to do this

with the cam adjuster assembly in the quill bearing cap, we suggest removing

the cam adjuster and put it in after the bearing cap is in place and bolted down.
To remove the cam adjuster first tuna the hand wheel #6071 in a counter clock

wise direction to the limit. Then remove hand wheel #6071* figure 10, page 33*
This will expose the screws which hold the assembly consisting of the cam



adjuster and component parts in position. The assembly can now be pulled out.

23

When replacing, turn the cam until the first tooth on the cam adjuster mates

with the first tooth of the gear segment found on the cam. CAUTION: The as
sembler should make sure that none of the flexible oil lines touch any moving

part.

If one of these lines gets a hole in it there will not be any oil de



livered to that part of the machine and trouble will surely develop.

OIL PUMP



The cross section of the oil pump can be seen in figure 10, page 33. To get to
the oil pump remove belt guard #6255 at the back of machine. Pump is attached

to the small rectangular plate below and to the left of the drive pulley #6115-
The pump assembly can be taken off the machine in one unit by removing the four
screws in the plate #6l
lubrication instructions

The three flexible oil lines can be disconnected from the pump. Do not pull
the lines out any farther than necessary when disconnecting. It is advisable
to reconnect these lines in the same order they were disconnected. The pump

24. Drain the oil out of the machine first. Refer to

on

page 4 concerning the use of the three drain plugs.

is actually 3 pumps in one. Each pump is exactly alike and each pump works

independently with no interconnecting lines.
all three pumps at the same time. This pump is the simple spring actuated
plunger with the two ball check valves

. There is very little that can go

wrong with this style pump since it only operates at about 200 strokes per

minute. The strokes are only about l/8

M long and consequently the pump actually

will never wear out. If some foreign matter should get into the oil it might

Eccentric cam #6108 actuates

cause the check valves to stick or leak.

QUILL DRIVE ASSEMBLY
The cross section of the quill drive assembly can be seen in figure 10, page 33

and partly in figure 9, page 32. This unit can be taken off or out of the
machine by removing the screws in part #6100 which can be found under the belt
guard #6255• This is a simple shaft, bearings and gear assembly which should
require very little

service except for the oil seal or the small drive pinion
and shaft #6112, figure 9> page 32. When reassembling any of these plates be
sure to seal them with paper gaskets or Permatex.

CARRIAGE FEED SCREW AND NUT

To change carriage feed screw #6156 (Fig. ll) remove pipe plugs on top of
carriage at base of chuck bearing. Feed screw nut #6
four bolts.
pipe plug holes. Remove the four bolts.

By moving carriage back and forth the bolt heads can be seen through

Next, remove the four bolts from #6155

l46 is held in place with

carriage end plate. The assembly can now be pulled out of the machine. Reverse

the procedure for assembling the machine. When replacing the pipe plugs make

sure they are tight so that water will not seep into the oil reservoir.

CHUCK CARRIAGE

Should it ever be necessary to remove chuck carriage #6150, figure 11, page 34,

follow these instructions very carefully to avoid any difficulty.

The chuck
drive comes up through the slide and carriage so these parts have to be taken out
or off the machine. The following procedure and sequence should be maintained.

24

1. Remove wheel guard plate #6241 and disconnect coolant connection.

2. Remove grinding wheel.

3. Remove wheel guard, see instructions on page 22 and also under "Chuck and
Bearing Assembly" on page 21.
Remove chuck assembly, see instructions on page 21.

4.

5* Remove belt guard.

Remove shear pin round cover plate #6177

6.

y figure 9, page 32 and pull shaft

#6175 out of machine.

7. The chuck drive bevel gear bracket #6165 can now be taken out of the machine

by removing the 6 fillister
must be moved nearly all the way in toward the body of the machine. It may

head screws in the top rim. The carriage #6150

be necessary to move the carriage back and forth a little to find the proper

location that will permit the assembly to lift easily out of the machine.
Disconnect the flexible oil line before pulling the unit out too far.
Move the carriage away from the body of the machine as far as it will go.

8.

9. Remove carriage end plate #6159* Remove neoprene apron.

Figure 11, page 34, shows a stop #6l48 on the screw #6156 which will prevent

removing the carriage with the feed screw. Remove the adjusting collar #6158;
remove hand wheel #6157 and take out hand wheel woodruff key and carriage can
be pulled off the machine. CAUTION - When reassembling this part of the machine

care should be taken to make all joints water tight and oil tight. Plate #6159>
figure 11, page 34, must have a paper gasket or Permatex to seal the end of the

carriage

.

The neoprene apron should have Permatex applied all the way around. Be careful
when replacing the retaining strips that there are no wrinkles or folds in the
neoprene. If water gets in at the top of this neoprene apron it will follow in
and

get on the carriage ways. Make certain there is a good water-tight paper
gasket used when putting the bevel gear bracket #6165 back into the carriage
#6150. Also, be sure to connect the oil line.
gasket will let water and dirt down into the oil.

Loose screws or a poor fitting

Make the usual adjustment
on the carriage gib #6151 so the carriage #6150 will not be loose on the slide
#6l45, figure 11, page 34.

WHEEL DRESSER AND SETTING GAGE
The upper left hand corner of figure 11, page 34, shows the plan view cross

section of this unit.
than l/8".

We set it out about l/l6" at the factory. About once a week

(depending on how much the machine is used)

NOTICE

: The diamond point should never project more

, the diamond should be rotated
to bring a new cutting point next to the grinding wheel. Turning the diamond
regularly will increase the life, will dress the wheel better and enable the

grinding wheel to cut easier.

If the gage blade #6247 should become bent or should wear away it will change
the chisel edge on the drill.

We recommend that a new blade be put on if any

such damage occurs • Wheel dresser shafts show wear rapidly and we have tried
to seal this shaft and make it easy to lubricate. We recommend this shaft be
greased twice a week.

25

CHUCK ANGLE ADJUSTMENT LOCK

At the top of figure 11, page 34 is a cross section of the lock for the chuck,

Bart #6153 is the tee slot bolt.

Part #6152 is the nut and eccentric bearing.
Part #6154 is the eccentric locking shaft. These parts are in the grit and
dirt and if the chuck is moved quite frequently these parts will wear and will
need replacing occasionally.

GEAR SHIFTER

This machine will grind 2, 3 and 4 flute drills.

To grind the different numbers

of flutes it is necessary to change the ratio of the number of oscillations of

the quill to one revolution of the drill.

This is done with the gear shifter H,

figure 1, page 2. The gear shifter sub-assembly is also shown in figure 10,
page 33• This is a simple unit in design and can be taken off the machine by
removing the fillister

head screws in part #6130. The shifting yoke #6136 is

moved with the gear rack #6135 and the gear pinion #6133*

Removing plate #6130 exposes the lower gearing, oil pump and oil lines.

This is
a good inspection point for these parts. When putting the plate back on the
machine use a paper gasket or Permatex and make sure the yoke #6136 straddles
the gear #6094, figure 9, page 32. We do not recommend shifting the gears

while the machine is running because sometimes the gears clash quite hard.

When the machine is stopped and the gears do not drop into mesh at the first

or second try, simply roll the chuck slightly to line up the gear teeth.

OPERATING KNOB

The operating knob or wedge M, figure 1, page 2 actuates a single revolution

clutch on the quill or main shaft of the machine for starting and stopping

purposes

. The operating knob and affiliated parts are shown in detail as the
operating wedge sub-assembly in figure 10, page 33* The unit can easily be
taken out for service.

Part #6055> figure 10, page 33 is the wedge that pulls the clutch bolt #6028,
figure 9, page 32, out of engagement with the drive gear #6031 when stopping

the machine. To remove this unit from the machine, first remove the aluminum
knob #6060, figure 10, page 33> by loosening the set screw in the hub. Remove
the bolts In the rim of the bearing #6058 and the unit will come off. Wedge

#6055 is a hardened tool steel part complete with hardened cross pins. These

pins do not want to be tight in the holes. After the unit is assembled and put

In the machine the pins will stay in place.

Part #6055 receives hard usage and

will need replacing in time.

CHANGE GEAR ASSEMBLY
On the back side of the body of the machine is a large cast iron side plate

9-1/2

” x 14-1/2”. This plate carries the change gears #6082, 6083, 6084, 6092,

26

6093 and 6094, figure 9> page 33* This plate or change gear carrier is part
#6080 but does not appear on the cross section prints in this manual. We
usually mount the electrical disconnect switches to this plate.

To remove this

unit it may be necessary to remove some electrical boxes first.

The chuck drive shaft #6175 passes through this unit so the shaft has to be taken

out of the machine before the plate will come off.

Remove belt guard #6255*
remove the small round shear pin cover #6177 and pull the #6175 drive shaft out.
By removing the bolts in the rim of the plate the unit will come off the machine.

The ends of the gear teeth are beveled to allow the gears to mesh easily.

Again we say - do not attempt to shift the gearing while the machine is running.

The grinding wheel can be running, but do not have the clutch engaged so that
the quill is running when shifting gears.

MOTOR

The motor should be taken out for cleaning and lubrication once a year. The
motor bracket is designed so the motor can be pulled out of the pedestal by

loosening one set screw. On the opposite side of the machine from the operator
there will be found on the pedestal one 1" hole and one 3/8" tapped hole.

The 1

screw for locking the motor bracket. Loosen this set screw, remove the belt
guard, take the belt off and pull the motor out of the pedestal. The motor

bracket shaft will support the motor and it can be checked and lubricated

” hole is for oiling the motor bracket.

The 3/8" tapped hole is a set

while still attached to the bracket.
This machine is driven with a vee belt and the motor bracket is hinged so the

weight of the motor applies tension to the belt.

With the larger, more power
ful, instant starting type motor the pulley may have a tendency to climb the
belt and this action will make a vibration or noise for a split second. It



does no harm and as the machine wears in the noise will disappear.

GRINDING WHEEL MOUNT

The wheel mount has a series of holes drilled

for bolting on the wheel. In
time, these tapped holes may become worn and a new mount will be needed. Also,
this mount should be taken off and cleaned occasionally. Grit and dirt collects
inside the wheel guard and dirt may pack in around the mount to the extent it
may stall the machine. This is more apt to happen to the dry machines than the
wet ones

At this time the seals should be checked and replaced with new ones if the

•

seals are badly worn. When putting the wheel mount back on, be sure to tighten
the spindle nut #6048 securely. The adjustment for the tapered roller bearings
is made at the other end of the spindle.

27

AIRDRAULIC FEED UNIT

This unit employs very little movement and consequently is subject to very
little wear. We doubt very much if it will ever be necessary to replace parts

for this reason. The unit is very simply constructed and should be virtually
trouble free. A cross section of the airdraulic feed is shown in figure 6,
page 29, for your convenience. In the event of any difficulty please check out

as follows:

1. Always make certain there is an adequate supply of oil in the reservoir.
The reservoir can be seen at the top of section A-A in figure 6, page 29*
There is a special oil gun supplied with the machine and it should be filled
with a very heavy oil such as SJV.E. 120 or l40. Attach the gun to fitting
645-2 and force oil into the chamber until the second notch appears on the
small shaft #6315 • If the unit gets low on oil and the first notch in shaft

#6315 gets back to the end plate #6302 the unit will not function properly.
This is caused by an accumulation of air.

Refill the unit with oil and bleed

out the air once again as directed and the difficulty should be corrected.

2. If the unit does happen to have an unwanted supply of air it can be bled
off by loosening pipe plug #6340, figure 6, page 29 and the filler

fitting
645-2. Do not remove these plugs but simply loosen them enough to let the air
escape around the threads. Run the airdraulic unit a few times until the air

has been worked out. You will know that the air has been removed when you

start to get a trace of oil around the plugs in the area where the air had

been escaping previously.

3. The check valve is made up of parts 6309, 63IO, 63U as shown in figure

6. It is possible that this unit could become plugged or that a particle of

dirt might hold the valve open. If this were to happen the unit would not
work. To get to this valve for checking purposes it would be necessary to
remove parts 6332, 6334, 6329, thrust bearing FT-3, 6312, 6306 and the end
plate 6303*

Part 6309 is actually threaded into the cylinder casting 6300. It will there

fore be necessary to remove part 6309 with a screw driver.

end plate 6303 on the machine be very careful not to damage the "0" rings

found in this unit

4.

It is also possible that the feed adjusting needle 6324 can become plugged

.

When replacing

and thus stop the feed. It is usually possible to clear out this passage by
opening up the adjusting needle valve 6324 to the very limit and then operate

the unit a few times. After following this procedure return the valve to the
original setting to see If the difficulty has been corrected. If this fails
to correct the trouble the whole unit should then be removed.

This is done by placing a wrench on part #6325 and treating it like a bolt.
The whole assembly will part from the cylinder casting so that the valve can
be blown clean with an air hose. NOTE: Whenever you have opened this unit

for repair work be certain to bleed the air out of the assembly once again
as described above.

28



4

Z

FIG- 7

»

i

6046

6047-

6040

6038

y

'fxaf

OIL SEAL

2

Bi

6043

6 048-

A® ^

. .. ■•;-••: >

• v/A

p_l2689 TIMKEN CONE

6034

|2 6 3 I TIMKEN CUP

6 026

6 0 2 7

x—60396037

6053

%%m«W

7

/ 6020

/

6018

6087

6074

6068

5

603 I —

»

6036

5'

Wm

V

60 42

AT

Bl JUR B5 l 77

6073

ima

<J

6 019

« n Vnf. n i

6030

q -S

6039

6 2 55

60 4 I
6 0 44

A

Y

V'7

6045

I2X2-L

O

il jcal

V-6049

mm

6 043

;o:

w

2

I

J

a

6 050

,I±X 1.984

OIL SF A L

6 114

6 116

6

0'2 2

V/////////////A

6 113

5 086

A

\

^ \\\

6 112

5205 BRG •

6 2 07 BRG.

l

7

A

►^S

6 09 0

6 092

7/7/////////

6 010

600 DRILL

BODY ASSEMBLY

FIG. 9

6 09 4

POINTER

6 175

7

1

HE-O

6 083

6 II I

6 I 76

/

A

A

<A-

H

S3

71

/,

6 10 0

/

z

^

S®

"j i

EXTRA SHEAR PIN

6

17

Z

Z

\

z

N

<

m

'j

B 6 8 \

VEE-B ELT

6203 BRG.

617 9

shear

7

6 086

''*5204

BRG.

6 115

PIN

® D

*

G

j

&

DIAMOND

6 2 47

r

a"

6153

<v//7777777/7}

X

J*X l"o'RING

•

i xii

V

6150

6157

ring

vx//)

GT3-THRUST BRG-

"5

1

1

%

£

*

2ZZ2ZZZZZM

PLAN VIEW OF SETTING GAGE

z

/
/

/

/

/

V///

*W

'A

:

///A

6154

600 DRILL

CARRIAGE

SERIAL NUMBER STAMPED ON THIS SURFACE

\

FIG.II

POINTER

ASSEMBLY

616

6 2 40

f

7-

/

/
/

/
/

Ys

2

&

3

*

:

'“6252

6251

6159

1

616 0

IM

6175

/

6014

X

\

su.

■ 6 170

A

kzi

B

A = DRILL

B = 2^-

FOR

3" FOR l" TO I T

3^" FOR

4"

FOR

BUSHING

IN

GRINDING

DIAMETER

2

TO l" DRILLS

1^' TO 2" DRILLS

2" TO

FOR

THREE

DRILLS

2^

DRILLS

USE

FLUTE CORE

FIG.

DRILLS

12

*

!VJ

/ ?

CHUCKING

LESS

THAN

A 2 FLUTE

2"

F I G. 13

T

>-

i

DRILL

DIAMETER

CHUCKING

A4FLUTE

F I G. 14

DRILL

OPERATING DESTRUCTIONS FOR DEVELOPING GENERATED "DOUBLE GRIND" ON

OI2TVER MODEL 600 DRILL GRINDER FOR NUMERIC A LLY CONTROLLED DRII.LTNG OPERATIONS

.

This particular drill point has an unusual geometry consisting of a double grind
which actually produces a pointed surface on the chisel angle. See illustration

(fig. 17) on page 38. The production of this unique point on your model 600
drill grinder requires a second operation but the benefits are many where numer
ically controlled drilling

This type of point has eliminated center drilling in many instances where all
other factors are favorable. In addition, center hole distance is maintained

is

being considered.

on a more accurate basis because of the reduced tendency for the drill to walk.
The projection at the middle of the chisel angle tends to center the drill.
The step by step procedure to grind this point is as follows.

Secure drill in chuck in usual manner.

1.

2.

The positioning of the drill to the setting gage will be slightly

Roll the drill

away from the operator for an additional 10 degrees or so

different.

past the usual position which is parallel with the top of the setting gage.

Dial the clearance setting to #1 or #2 position.

3.

4.

Sharpen the drill In the usual manner.
Crank

5.

grinding wheel. Be sure to leave the drill

the hand wheel so that the chuck and carriage move away from the

clamped in the chuck.



6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

Place gear selector lever in "neutral".

Roll chuck toward the operator for a distance of about 1-1/2" to 2" at the

outside diameter of the chuck.

Dial the clearance setting to #5 or

lever

•

position,

Now turn the hand wheel and feed the chuck and carriage assembly toward the
grinding wheel once again in order to add the "double grind". NOTE: You

Re-engage gear selector

will only remove a small amount of metal and it will be done very quickly.

Add this second grind with a good deal of caution until you become accustomed

to removing the correct amount of stock.

The new grinding mark will appear

on the back side of the drill point. The forward feed of the chuck and drill
to the grinding wheel should only be maintained until the grind marks bisect
the center of the chisel angle.

Retract carriage and chuck and remove drill.
Dial clearance setting indicator back to the #1 or #2 position for next

drill.

39

600 DRILL POINTER PARTS LIST

IMPORTANT:
6000

6001
6002

6003
6004

6010
6013

6014
6015

6016A
6018

6019

6020

6021
6022
6025
6026

6027

6028

6029

6030

6031

6032
6034

6035

6036
6037

6038

6039

6040

6o4l

6042
6043

6o44
6045

6046

6047

6048
6049

6050

6051

6052
6053

6054
6055

6056
6057

6058

6059

Pedestal
Motor Bracket
Motor Bracket Shaft
Motor Bracket Shaft Collar

Motor Pulley

Transmission Case

Hose End

Clean Out Pan

Pan

Pan Cover Plate
Quill Cap Cover
Quill Cap
Quill Base
Quill Cap Gasket (2)
Quill

Quill Clutch Gear

Clutch Bolt Retainer

Clutch Bolt Spring

Clutch Bolt
Quill Idler Gear Retainer

Cam Follower

Quill Idler Gear

Clutch Lock
Quill End Dust Seal Front

Cam
Cam Thrust Plug
Cam Thrust Sleeve
Cam Thrust Spring
End Ring (2)
Quill Packing Gland
Quill Packing Gland

Spindle

Spacer (2)
Quill End Dust Seal Rear
Quill End Plate Rear
Quill End Plate Front
Wheel Mount

Spindle Nut

Spindle Pulley

Spindle Adjusting Nut
Quill End Plate Gasket (2)
Front Quill Gasket

lacking Springs (12)

Rear Quill Gasket

Operating Wedge Bolt

Operating Lever Spring
Operating Knob Shaft
Clutch Wedge Bracket

Clutch Bracket End Plate

Furnish the machine serial number when ordering repair parts

6060 Operating Knob
6065 Cam Adjuster Bearing (rear)
6066 Cam Adjusting Screw

6067 Cam Adjusting Screw Nut

6068 Nut and Rack Guide
6069 Cam Adjuster Bearing (front)
6070 Cam Adjuster Dust Seal

6071 Cam Adjuster Hand Wheel
6072 Cam Adjuster Plug
6073 Cam Position Pointer

6074 Cam Adjuster Plate
6079 Change Gear End Pilate
6080 Change Gear Plate
6081 Idler Gear Shaft
6082 2 Lip Idler Gear
6083

3

6084 4 Lip Idler Gear
6085 2 Lip Idler Gear Key

lip Idler Gear

6086 Idler Shaft Washer (3)
6087 2 lip Idler Gear Spacer
6090 Change Gear Shaft
6091 Change Gear Shaft Key

6092 2 lip Change Gear
6093

3

lip Change Gear
6094 4 lip Change Gear
6100 Ba ck Plate
6101 Quill Drive Bracket
6102 Oil Pump Roller Bracket
6103 Oil Pump Roller Shaft
6104 Oil Pump Roller
6105 Drive Idler Shaft

6106 Quill Drive Gear
6107 Quill Drive Pinion
6108 Oil Pump Cam
6109 Quill Drive Bracket End Plate
6110 Drive Idler Shaft Washer
6111 Drive Pinion Cartridge
6112 Drive Pinion

6113 Drive Pinion Spacer
6114 Oil Seal Retainer
6115 Drive Pulley
6116 Pulley Bushing
6U9 Oil Pump Roller Spring (3)
6120 Oil Pump Cylinder
6121 Oil Pump Check (3)
6122 Oil Pump Check Retainer (3)
6123 Oil Pump Pistons (3)
6124 Oil Pump Cover Plate
6125 Oil Pump Shaft

4l

6126

Oil Pump Piston Block
6127 Oil Pump Roller Bracket Spring
6130 Gear Shifter Plate
6131 Gear Shifter Bracket

6132 Gear Shifter Shaft
6133 Gear Shifter Gear
6134 Gear Shifter Slide
6135 Gear Shifter Rack

6136 Gear Shifter Yoke
6137 Gear Shifter lock
6138 Gear Shifter Spring (2)
6139 Gear Shifter Handle
6145 Carriage Slide
6146 Feed Screw Nut
6148 Feed Screw Stop

6149 Gib Grease Bushing
6150 Carriage

6151 Carriage Gib
6152 Tee Slot Bolt Nut
6153 Tee Slot Bolt
6154 Clamp Handle
6155 Carriage End Plate

I

6156 Carriage Feed Screw

6157 Hand Wheel
6158 Hand Wheel Adjusting Nut
6159 Carriage End Plate (rear)

6161 Carriage Bust Seal
6162 Carriage Dust Seal Retainer
6164 Carriage Rear Dust Seal Retainer

6165 Miter Gear Bearing
61

66 Miter Gear Shaft

6167 Miter Gear (2)

6168 Miter Gear (lower)
6169 Miter Gear Bearing Gasket
6170 Bevel Gear Bearing

6171 Bevel Gear

6172

Bevel Gear Key-

6173 Bearing Retainer
6175 Chuck Drive Shaft
6176

6177

6178
6179

Shear
Shear

Shear
Shear

Pin Drive Collar
Pin Cap

Pin Cap Gasket

Pin (2)
6180 Chuck Bearing Base
6181 Chuck Pinion Shaft
6182 Chuck Drive Pinion

6183 Bearing Spacer

6184 End Plate
6185 Bearing Cartridge

6186 Chuck Bearing Graduation
6187 "0" Scale

6188 Bearing Cartridge Gasket
6190 Chuck Bearing

6191 Center Rest Shaft (2)
6192 Center Rest Bracket
6193 Center Rest

6194 Center Bracket Clamp Screw
6195 Center Rest Locking Plug
6196 Center Rest Screw
6197 Center Rest Screw Pin (2)
6200 Chuck Body-
6201 Scroll and Bevel Gear
6202 Scroll Retaining Plate
6205 Chuck Nose
6206 Chuck Cheek
6207 Chuck Cheek

(stationary)
(movable

)

6208A "A" Plate (2)
6211A "D" Plate
6212A "E" Plate

(4)

(2)

6213A "F" Plate (2)

6215 Chuck Jaw (2)
6216 Chuck Jaw Plug (2)
6217 Chuck Jaw Guide Pin (2)
6219 Scroll Pinion (2)
6220 Pinion Retainer (2)
6221 Suh Jaw and Belt Guard Wrench
6222

6223
6224
6225
6226

6227
6228

6229
6230

6231
6232

6233
6234

6235
6236

6237
6238

6239
6240

6241

6245

6246

6247

6248

6249

6250
6251

6252

6255

6256

Chuck Wrench
Chuck Wrench Handle
Subjaw & Belt Gd. Wrench Hdl. (2)

Chuck Jaws (2)
Chuck Jaws (2)
Chuck Centering Screw (4)
Chuck "0" Ring Retainer
Chuck Body Shim
Chuck Body Gear
Oil Seal Retainer Ring
Chuck Body Back Plate
Chuck Idler Gear
Chuck Idler Gear Bushing
Chuck Idler Gear Shaft
Chuck Dust Seal
Chuck Dust Seal Retainer

Chuck Dust Seal (rear)
Wheel Guard Plug
Wheel Guard
Wheel Guard Plate

Setting Gage Shaft

Setting Gage Arm

Drill Setting Gage

Setting Gage Stop Pin

Setting Gage Lever Hub

Setting Gage Lever

Gear Housing Hold-down

Gear Housing Hold-down Spring
Belt Guard
Drill Stop

42

6257 Drill Stop Clamp Screw
6260 R.H. Splash Guard (wet)

6261 L.H. Splash Guard (wet)

6262

Rear

Splash Guard (wet)
6845 Springs (8)
843

Washer

9531 Pipe Nipple
PARTS LIST FOR AUTOMATIC INFEED:

2 6008 SKF Bearings
2 6203 Bearings

2 6207 SKF Bearings
2 GT-3 Thrust Bearings
1

B-4904

2

B-5093

Bijur Windows
Bijur Windows

1 B-5117 Bijur Windows

3 ir6

3 x 287 Garlock Oil Seals
1 #63 x 424 Garlock Oil Seal
2 #63 x 904 Garlock Oil Seals

6300
6301
6302

6303
6304

6305
6306

6307
6308

6309
6310

6311
6312

6313

6314

6315

6316

6317

6318

6319

6320
6321
6322

6323

6324

6325

6326

6327

6328

6329

6330

6331
6333
6334

Carriage Feed Cylinder
Carriage & Cylinder End Plate
Hydraulic Surge Bowl
Cylinder End Plate
Carriage Feed Screw

Oil Piston
Cylinder Stop Collar

Air Piston Retainer

Set Screw
Quick Return Valve Spring Retnr.
Quick Return Valve Seat
Valve Spring

Feed Dial

Feed Scale

Oil Expansion Piston
Piston Rod
Oil Expansion Spring
Surge Bowl End Plate
Plunger Rod
Plunger Rod Knob
Plunger Rod Collar (2)
Air Valve Sleeve

Pheking Spacer

Air Valve End Plate (2)
Feed Control Valve
Feed Control Valve Nut
Feed Control Valve Knob
Feed Control Valve Seat
Feed Control Valve Spring

Hand Wheel Spacer
Feed Cylinder Bushing
Feed Dial Brake (2)

Ran

Hand Wheel

1 #63 x 2032 Garlock Oil Seal
1 4825 JM Clipper Seal
64" IB x 4-5/8

” OB #431 Center Racking
1 RS487 Spirolox Ring
1 RS575 Spirolox Ring
1 7/l6" ID x 5/8" OD "0" Rings
2 9/l6" ID x 3A" OD "O" Rings

1 3/4" ID x 1" OD "0" Rings
2 13/16
1 1-1/8" ID x 1-3/8" OD "0

” ID x 1-1/6" OD ”

0" Rings

” Rings
2 1-1/2" ID x 1-3/4" OD "0" Rings
1 4" ID x 4-1/4" OD ”

0" Rings
1 8-1/4" ID x 8-1/2" OD "0" Rings
1 B68 "V" Belt
1 3/l6" x 32" Hose Assembly
1 3/l6" x 12" Hose Assembly
1 7/l6" x 1-3/4" Diamond
1 H2 Graymill Coolant System (wet)
1 569020 Bendix Skinner Vent

1 809 Filter Tube Cartridge
1 B4-1/4-ED Full low Filter

PURCHASED PARTS: AUTOMATIC INFEED
4 3/32" x 2-1/2" Piston Rings

1 CB28358 Piston with l/2" Hole
2 D-1795-1 Cup Packing

1 A-I978 Bellows Filler Assembly
1 BCU250A Bellows Lubro Unit
1 FG101 & FG101A Bellows Oil Gun & Adapt,
1 3/l6" x 15" Hose Assembly
1 1/8" ID x 1/4" OD "0" Ring

1 3/8" ID x 9/l6" OD "0" Ring
2 3/4" ID x 1" OD "0" Rings

4 1-1/8" ID x 1-3/8" OD "0" Rings

PURCHASED PARTS: STANDARD MACHINES

2 1-3/8" ID x 1-5/8" OD "0" Rings
2 1-3A” m x 2" or> "O" Rings

1 set LL327010-LL327049 Timken Bearings 2 2" ID x 2-l/4" OD "0" Rings

1 set LL225710-LL225749 Timken Bearings 1 63 x 424 Garlock Oil Seal
2 2631-2689 (set) Timken Bearings
1 5203 Bearings

6 5204 Bearings

2 5205 Bearings

I

43

. -

■

5

!

OLIVER

of

ADRIAN

PRODUCTS

DRILL POINTERS

TOOL and CUTTER GRINDERS

FACE MILL GRINDERS

DRILL-POINT THINNERS

TOOL BIT GRINDERS

DIE MAKING MACHINES

DRILL CHECKING GAGES

I

'' .-'.'I

■

:

'

\