Oliver Instrument Model 600 Drill Pointer Grinder

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DIRECTIONS

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This gauge has been produced to determine the relative accuracy of the two cutting
lips of a drill by a very simple means. A dial indicator is used to determine

INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE OF OLIVER DRILL POINT CHECKING GAUGE

v •*

whether or not there is any difference in the height of the two cutting lips.
A high cutting lip also represents a short cutting lip.

A series of hardened and ground vee blocks are supplied for positioning the drill

in a horizontal plane. Vee block M

J" is in a fixed position and the point end of

the drill will always be placed in this area. When straight shank drills are

involved vee block "G" can be pushed forward to provide an adequate surface for

resting the drill.

If vee block "G

u does not interfere with the shank it can also
be used in a forward position with taper shank drills. Vee block "H" is used with
extra length drills.

In order to move the drill in a rotary direction while
checking the two cutting lips it is necessary to have
the tool rest against stop "A" to maintain a fixed for

ward position.



INDICATOR

The indicator can be moved to the outside on arm "E" by
using knurled knob "B"
when checking large drills.
checked the dial indicator should be moved toward center
of the gauge. Knob "B

. This is the procedure to use

If small drills are being

M also locks the dial in place.

Ann "E" can be pivoted to permit checking of various in

cluded point angles. The rotation of this arm is controlled
by knurled knob "CM. If smaller included point angles are
to be checked the arm will be swung toward center. If larger
included point angles are involved the arm will have to be

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moved away from center.

Arm "E" can also be raised and lowered to permit accurate gauging of both large and

small diameter drills.
to loosen knurled knob ”C” and make an adjustment with the knurled support "F"

In order to raise or lower the dial indicator it is necessary

. You
will find it practical to raise the whole indicator checking assembly when working
with large drills. Smaller diameter drills would call for a lowering of the dial
indicator since they rest at a lower level in the vee blocks.

Dial indicator "D" should always be positioned in a manner to permit placing of
the needle point against the cutting lip of the drill at approximately right angles
to obtain best results. The checking should be done toward the outer portion of
the cutting lips.

See sketch.

If you are able to maintain differential readings of less than .003" you are well
within commercial tolerances. If such readings cannot be maintained and you are
using a commercial drill grinder the following difficulties

1.

The drill

involved could be out of index. Reverse the drill in the grinder

might exist:

and see if the same cutting lip comes high. If It does, you can correct the
drill with a drill point thinning machine. If the opposite lip comes high the
drill

chuck or drill holding mechanism would appear to need adjustment.

1

The shank of the drill could be damaged considerably. Any existing burrs

2.
could cause an erroneous reading on the indicator.

Check the drill for straightness on the surface plate. A bend in the drill

3.

would cause the production of a poor point.

OLIVER INSTRUMENT CCMPANY, Adrian, Michigan

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OLIVER

DRILL POINT

CHECKING

GAUGE

y2" TO 3"

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INDEX

Airdraulic Infeed Unit

Belt

.................................................

...............

Bushings for Three Flute Drills

Carriage Repair ...........................

Center Assembly ...........................

Change Gear Assembly

Checking of Drills

...................

.......................

Chisel Point Adjustment . . . .

Chuck Adjustment
Chuck Assembly

Chuck Failure and Repair. . . .

Chuck Wrench

...........................

..............................

..................................

Chucking Large Drills ..............................................

Clearance Adjustment

.................................................

Coolant System. . .....................................................

Cross Section Drawings - Airdraulic Feed Unit .

Body Assembly. . . . .

Body Sub-Assemblies

. .
Carriage Assembly. . .

Chuck Assembly . . . .

Chuck (isometric View)

Dressing of Grinding Wheel. .

Electricals .........

Four Flute Drills ...................

Gear Shifter
Grinding A Drill
Grinding V/heel Mount
Grinding V/heel Specifications

Grinding VJheel Spindle. . . .

...............................

.......................

...............

Included Angle Adjustment . .
Included Angle Chart

...............

Installation Instructions . .

Lubrication ...............................

Motor ..........................................

Oil Pump
Operating Clutch. . .
Operating Instructions

Operating Knob. . . .

Parts List. .....

Quill Bearing Assembly
Quill Drive Assembly.
Repair Instructions .

Setting Gage. ....

.......................

Shear Pin Replacement
Sub-Jaw's

................

... .

Three Flute Drills. .

V/et Grinding
V/heel Guard

.................

.................

15, 28, 29

. 3

35

24

7, 9

26
37

13

18, 19

21

8, 17, 16, 19, 21

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16
13

. 4

29

32
33

34
31

30

7, 25

3,

27

9, 36

26

6

27
22

11

12

3

4, 15

3, 27

24

23

6

26

38
22
24

17

25

17

.7, 9

11, 35

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INSTALLATION

, OPERATION AND REPAIR MANUAL

FOR THE OLIVER "MODEL 600" DRILL POINTER.

This manual is very important and should be read thoroughly by all concerned
before attempting to do any work on the machine.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

When removing the crate from this machine do not take the unit off the skids
until after the drill

pointer has been moved to the department or location

where the machine will be utilized.
We recommend the placement of the drill

of the tool grinding equipment. Many times drill
production area and quite often the machine is operated by several people with
no one having responsibility

for maintaining proper care. If possible, choose
a location that will permit proper illumination of the chuck area. This will
allow the operator to set the drill accurately and to stop the grinding when
the drill

shows a proper cutting edge.

Check the shipment carefully to make certain that you do not misplace any of
the standard accessory items. The machine is shipped with two sets of sub-jaws

(one set is usually mounted in the chuck), a chuck wrench, a V-belt and also a

pointer in the tool room with the rest

pointers are placed in the

grinding wheel and diamond dresser which are already affixed to the machine.

If the machine is of the wet type you will also receive a water pump and tank
assembly. If you have purchased the "airdraulic infeed" type machine you will
also receive a combination air regulator and lubricator and a special grease gun.

After the machine has been placed in the proper position, remove the belt guard.
The large T shaped chuck wrench sent with the unit can be inserted through the

drilled openings in the belt guard to remove the three socket set screws that
hold the guard in position. Next, remove the steel straps and the wooden block

ing that support and hold the hinged motor. Clean all the rust preventative



grease from the finished surfaces of the machine.
Remove the machine from the skid and set it in a level position on the floor.

It is satisfactory to use a standard level for checking purposes.
The majority of the machines shipped from the factory are completely wired and

it is only necessary to supply power to the disconnect switch. IMPORTANT: When
making the connection be certain the motor is running in the right direction.
The correct rotation is clockwise as you face the pulley end of the motor and

is indicated by an arrow on the wheel guard. Running the machine backwards
will cause damage

.

At this point take the V-belt (packed separately) and mount it around the two
upper pulleys and the motor pulley at the bottom. The motor pulley can be

raised to accommodate the belt since the motor Is mounted on a hinged bracket

to provide permanent tension while the eccentric quill revolves

. The belt

guard can now be mounted on the machine once again.

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COOIANT SYSTEM

If you have purchased a wet type machine, additional work will be required to
set up the coolant system. Place the tank, complete with motorized pump and
settling section, at the back right hand side of the machine. Hook up the
large diameter hose with the outlet on the bottom of the pan at the back side

of the machine. Drop the opposite end into the settling area of the tank.

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Take the small diameter rubber hose and fasten one end to the small pipe which
projects from the top of the motorized pump. Connect the opposite end of this
hose with the fitting located on the top of the machine. The motorized pump
power supply should be connected at this time.

We do not manufacture this tank and pump assembly but the builder's name can be
found on the tank lid and on the motor. The proper pump rotation is found on
the motor plate. Centrifugal pumps of this type will usually pump some coolant
even if min backward but it should be run in the direction shown on the motor
to make certain the pump delivers full volume. For service on this pump and/or

tank we suggest you contact the manufacturer.

The water pan on this machine is designed so there will be about l/2" to 3/4
depth of coolant at all times. The reason for this is to keep the larger or
heavier particles in the pan. There are actually two return openings for
drainage from the pan to the water tank

. If it is determined that coolant

accumulation in the pan is not desirable the return hose can be connected to

”

the other opening and this will dirain the pan completely. This will cause all

of the grit to travel with the coolant and the tank will have to be cleaned
quite frequently. The coolant mixture should be about an 80 to 1 ratio.
Coolant that is too thick has a tendency to load the grinding wheel and con

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tributes to possible burning of the drill.

The use of coolant is not always necessary but we strongly suggest using it in
three specific instances, (l) Large diameter drills, (2) drills that require

a great amount of stock removal, and (3) drills made of carbon steel.

High

speed steel drills in the smaller size range can be ground wet or dry since the

amount of heat generated during the grinding operation is minimal.

LUBRICATION

There are three oil level gages on the operating side of the machine. Two of the
gages can be found on the pedestal and the third will be found on the chuck
bearing support. Check the level in the oil gage found at the right, next to

the flute selector lever. If the oil is low or if you cannot see any oil at all
a further supply must be added to bring it up to the proper level. A pipe plug
will be found on top of the machine, shown as B, figure 1, page 2, and this
should be removed and the oil added at this point. We recommend SAE 20 machine

oil (S.S.U. 300 viscosity at 100° F) such as Indoil #31 or equivalent.

The oil may not appear in the other gage in the pedestal until the machine has
been started and circulation
fill

the reservoir.

When the machine is started, the oil will be pumped to

begun. It will take about four quarts of oil to

the other chamber and as the oil gage goes down further oil can be added.

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The chuck on the machine has been equipped with a separate oil reservoir. The

sight gage will be found on the chuck bearing support. The oil should be

maintained at this level,

in

A 2

pipe plug, shown as GG, figure 7

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will be found

at the top of the chuck and the same SAE 20 machine oil should be added through

this opening. The oil should be changed periodically by using drain plug "FFn,
figure 7*

The drain plugs for the two body sections are found near the oil level gages.

One is shown as MP", figure 1, page 2. After the machine has been in use for
about six months the oil should be completely drained and a new supply added.
There are a few Alemite grease fittings on the machine and on the chuck. They

should be filled

in figure 1, page 2, and if the machine receives a fair amount of use they

before starting the machine. The fittings are marked as "C"

should receive a shot of grease daily. We recommend the use of Alemite #33

or the equivalent.
There is one oiler found on the machine and it is shown as D in figure 1, page

2. This oiler lubricates the hand wheel bearing on the carriage infeed and

the use of any standard machine oil will be satisfactory.

GRINDING WHEEL

The Oliver Model 600 Drill Pointer uses a 9" x 2" x 5" cup type grinding wheel

with steel back construction. A wheel is supplied with the machine as standard

equipment and usually carries the specification 32A702-J12-VBEP

. Details of

the wheel are shown in figure 2 below. The spindle speed is 2200 RR4.

5

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

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Drills ground on the Oliver Model 600 Drill Grinder are chucked in a two jaw

self-centering chuck which revolves while the drill is being ground. A special
type of point is produced which will require less torque and thrust and conse
quently less horse power for the same speed and feed when compared with the
conventional constant clearance type of point.

On the Oliver Point there is less clearance at the outer edge but greater clear

ance toward the center of the tool.

This produces a much stronger cutting edge

and provides sufficient clearance for the heaviest feeds which you might employ

on your drilling equipment.

Drills can generally be ground with included point angles of 80° to l60°.

Chisel angles from 90° to l40° are obtainable. Variable clearance can also be

generated by use of a simple hand wheel control. With these adjustable features

many different kinds of drill points can be ground.

The Oliver Point actually requires less chisel angle than drills ground in any
other manner. V/e do not depend upon this angle for clearance at the center of
the tool.

Chisel angles as produced by twist drill manufacturers range from
approximately 120° to 135° • The Oliver Point works best with a chisel angle of
about 100° to 120°. The machines are adjusted at the factory to produce a

chisel angle of approximately 110°.

In the following operating instructions we will make reference to descriptive
designations by means of a letter and they will be found on figure 1, page 2.
This will apply to both the wet and dry type machines. If you have purchased

the Model 600 drill pointer complete with airdraulic infeed you will find
additional instructions on pages 15 and l6 and reference will also be made to
figure 4, page l4.

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The drill

chuck and bearing assembly E, figure 1, page 2, can be moved to

permit the grinding of various included point angles. This is accomplished by

means of loosening a simple T-handle located on the back side of the chuck base.

As a starter, we would suggest that you position the chuck to grind an included

angle of

118° which is considered standard. Graduations will be found on the

lower outside edge of the chuck base.

In figure 1 you will note that handle F represents a combination diamond
dressing unit and setting gage. At this time we wish to consider the dressing
of the grinding wheel. In order to eliminate any possible interference, move
the carriage to the left by turning hand wheel G, figure 1, anti-clockwise to
the limit. The dressing of the wheel is accomplished In an area hidden from

the view of the operator.

In order for the operator to be visibly certain that the diamond is gradually
approaching the grinding wheel for dressing purposes, push handle F toward the
back of the machine to Its limit. Then slowly feed carriage toward the grind
ing wheel by rotating hand wheel G in a clockwise direction.

Continue moving

the carriage inward until the setting gage blade is approximately l/8" from

6

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the face of the grinding wheel,

Make certain that knob M is turned clockwise to

its limit and then start the motor which will revolve the grinding wheel.
Position handle F approximately half way back toward the operator and rock it

back and forth while feeding the carriage to the right with hand wheel G.
Contact will shortly be made with the face of the grinding wheel and the dress
ing can be completed. IMPORTANT: When installing a new diamond in the holder,
please make certain it projects only about l/l6

” from the setting gage. This

is shown graphically in the upper left hand corner of figure 11, page 3^-*
At this point, please make certain that lever H is placed in one of the two

neutral positions. The markings will be found on the front of the machine,

You

are now ready to grind a new point on a twist drill of your selection.
There are two sets of chuck sub-jaws "I" supplied with the machine and the

smaller range of drill

sizes will be taken care of by the set that is already

mounted in position in the chuck. This particular set of sub-jaws will take

care of drills from l/2" to 1-5/8" diameter. The other set of sub-jaws will

accommodate drills from 1-5/8'

’ to 3" diameter.

Each sub-jaw is held in place with a socket head cap screw and can easily be

changed with a minimum of effort. The mating sides of the master jaws and
sub-jaws should be wiped clean when changes are made since foreign matter can
cause an off center grind. The sub-jaws are marked R and L as are the master

jaws and it is preferable to match them up to secure greatest accuracy. We
prefer that you start with a two flute drill approximately 1" in diameter for
your initial test grind.



Move setting gage F away from the operator toward the rear of the machine to

its limit. This places the setting gage in correct position to control the
amount of projection of the drill
twist drill

setting gage F

through the back end of the chuck bearing E until it almost touches

.

when it is mounted in the chuck. Place the

The chuck wrench which is supplied with the machine, can then be placed in one

of two locations on the periphery of the chuck which is labled J in figure 1.
Before snugging up the drill be sure the lands of the drill are placed approxi
mately in mid-position in the jaws in accordance with the instruction plate K
mounted

special chucking procedure is employed as far as location of the drill is

on

the front of the machine. V/hen sharpening very large drills a

concerned when locked in the jaws. Please refer to page l6 for detailed infor

mation. Figure 13, page 36, also shows the correct manner of positioning

smaller drills in the sub-jaws. Note that dimensions X and Y are to be
approximately equal. This does not influence the type of point obtained but
does give the most area of contact for gripping purposes.

The center rest assembly L should be moved toward the chuck until the point of
the center makes contact with the center in the shank of the drill.
the sub-jaws fully with the chuck wrench. You will note we have gripped the

Tighten

drill on the only accurate surfaces available, the two ground margins and the

center.

If the center in the shank of the tool is mutilated we would suggest

the use of an auxiliary sleeve to achieve maximum accuracy.

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CAUTION: REMOVE CHUCK WRENCH BEFORE OPERATING THE MACHINE.

If the chuck wrench is inadvertently left in the chuck it will jam against the
base of the unit when the machine is placed in operation. A shear pin in incor

porated in the design of the uni

t to prevent any further damage other than the

breaking of the shear pin itself.
It is necessary to coordinate the revolving of the drill with the oscillation

of the grinding wheel spindle. This is accomplished by rotating the chuck

(after the drill has been clamped in position) to the proper position. The
chuck wrench can be used as a lever to move the chuck. The chuck should be

rotated away from the operator until the cutting lip of the drill is parallel
with the top or end of setting gage F. Remove the chuck wrench from the chuck
if it was used as a lever.

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In order to insure the proper number of turns of the chuck in relation to the
oscillation of the grinding wheel, lever H should be moved until it engages in

the position marked for two flute drills

. If handle H fails to engage readily
in the two flute position, a very small movement of the chuck will take care
of this difficulty. It is now necessary to pull handle F back toward the

operator as far as it will go.

Engage the push button on the electrical control box.

This will automatically
start the rotation of the grinding wheel. It is now necessary for the operator
to rotate operating knob M anti-clockwise which will set the chuck in motion
in correct time with the oscillation of the grinding wheel spindle.

IMPORTANT: If the chuck does not revolve it is probably because the shear pin

has broken for safety purposes

. As previously explained, this usually happens
as a result of leaving the wrench in the chuck during the operating procedure
Instructions are provided on how to replace this shear pin in the "Repair
Section

” of this manual. Please refer to "Chuck Drive Shear Pin" information

found on page 17.

NOTE:
airdraulic infeed, please see instructions on page 15

If you have purchased a Model 600 drill pointer with the automatic

. Disregard the follow

ing paragraph since it will only apply to units having the manual infeed.

The sharpening of the drill is now accomplished by turning hand wheel G clock
wise and feeding the carriage toward the grinding wheel until the drill begins
to spark. This operation is continued until the operator feels that both
cutting lips have been sharpened. For the first few days the drills

should be

fed in rather slowly until you become accustomed to the proper rate of infeed.

.





Now that the drill has been sharpened, move the carriage to the left by
rotating hand wheel G anti-clockwise which takes the drill away from the area

of the grinding wheel. The operator should next turn knob M clockwise which
will stop the motion of the chuck and the oscillation of the grinding wheel
spindle.

Generally speaking, if much more than l/l6" of stock on small drills
of stock on large drills has been ground off the end of the drill

It is not necessary to stop the motor.

or

the chisel

l/8"

8

angle will increase to a dimension that might be objectionable. We then

recommend loosening the drill in the chuck and resetting it forward until it
almost touches setting gage F once again. As previously outlined, make certain
the cutting lip is parallel with the top or end of the setting gage. Then feed
the carriage to the right once again with hand wheel G for a short distance
until the new grind reduces the size of the chisel angle.

The center rest assembly should be moved to the extreme left in order to give

the operator room enough to reach into the chuck to remove the drill after the
jaws have been loosened. You will note there are two adjustments on the center

rest assembly for controlling the position of the center.
The center rest assembly will take care of drills

up to a

maximum length of

approximately 28". This is more than enough for any standard length drill.

If you have any special extra length drills
handle contact us and advise us of the total overall length of the drills
involved.

We will be able to quote you on a special set of bars to increase

on

hand that the machine will not

the capacity of the machine as far as length is concerned.

SPECIAL SUB-JAWS

Occasionally we find users of our equipment who have a supply of short length
taper shank drills
the sub-jaws and the drill
with the setting gage in the proper manner. It will thus be necessary to
purchase a special set of cut out jaws. We do not suggest the use of these

cut out sub-jaws for longer length tools since they are lacking in gripping

area

.

. Under these conditions the taper shank interferes with

cannot project far enough forward to make contact

Drills with very small included point angles may require a special set of

sub-jaws. We are thinking of countersinking type tools and in various sizes
the grinding wheel will run into the sub-jaws if the standard sets are used.

Certain types of drills having a very slow spiral or straight flutes cannot
be chucked firmly in the standard sub-jaws. If you will supply us with a

sketch or sample tool we will be glad to quote or submit drawings showing a
suggested design of sub-jaw. In these cases the sub-jaws are usually two

half round sections and are designed for only one size of drill.

POINTING OF FOUR FLUTE DRILLS

The operation of pointing a four flute core drill is identical with the
pointing of a two flute drill with very few exceptions

. All four flutes

will be ground in one continuous motion. Follow the same procedure as

outlined in the instructions for two flute drills,

except:

a.) The drill is not pushed quite as far forward to the setting gage and

should be short of the gage by about l/8"

. Experience will show that larger

9

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drills will probably produce best results when they are set away from the gage
while smaller drills can be placed almost against the setting gage when making
the initial set-up. We would like to point out that this is not critical but
simply changes the shape of the core drill at the center area

. This is of no

consequence since this area does not do any cutting anyway.

b.) When clamping the four flute drill in the sub-jaws a slightly different
procedure is followed for best results. The width of land is narrower on a
four flute core drill and the back edge of the land should be placed in the
center of the vee in the jaw. Figure l4, page 36, describes this placement

in detail.

Note that dimensions X and Y should be approximately equal. This
has nothing to do with the type of point obtained but once again does provide
the greatest gripping area. The tail center assembly L can now be pushed
forward or to the right so that the center can make contact with the center
in the shank of the tool. Tighten the drill in the chuck with the wrench
provided with the machine.

c.) It is now necessary to properly time or position the drill
sequent

grinding operation. Roll the chuck away from the operator so that
the cutting lip is approximately parallel to the top of the setting gage
similar to the instructions

covering two flute drills

. In order to roll the

chuck, handle H must be in one of the two neutral positions. The drill

manufacturers utilize different shapes of flutes and this inconsistency may

make it necessary to change the setting. In some cases, instead of having

for the sub

the cutting lip parallel with the top of the setting gage it will be necessary
to roll the chuck even further away from the operator. This could place the
cutting lip of the drill 15 or 20 degrees below the parallel position in order

to get the best grind. Move handle H into a vertical position to provide the

correct gearing for grinding four flute drills.

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front position to its limit.

This will eliminate any interference with the

grinding wheel. The operator can now start the motor which revolves the

grinding wheel. Turn knob M anti-clockwise which will then revolve the drill

d.) At this point the operator must move setting gage handle F back to the

chuck and oscillate the grinding wheel spindle.

You will note that the chuck
revolves at a slower speed in order to take care of the greater number of
flutes that must be ground during each revolution. The operation now becomes

identical to the grinding of two flute drills.

In the grinding of a four flute drill the center section of the end of the

drill

is

not touched and consequently leaves a nib. After several sharpenings
it will be necessary to grind off this nib by hand so the projection is never
too great at the center of the drill.

The point of the drill will show an unusual shape primary and secondary at the
periphery of the tool.

This type of grind is accomplished purposely. Less

clearance is required at the outside edge of the cutting lip in contrast to
the inner portion for any given rate of feed per revolution. Therefore, please
do not attempt to regrind the drill when you see this condition.

10

POINTING OF THREE FLUTE DRILLS

The operation of pointing three flute core drills is almost identical to the

pointing of four flute core drills

with one basic exception. We employ the use

of a two jaw chuck on our machine which obviously is not the best gripping

method for a three flute drill.

We therefore recommend the use of split bush
ings which can be placed around the outer surface of the drill in the form of
a sleeve. A suggested design for the split bushings is shown in figure 12,



page 35.

At this point the three flute drill, complete with the split bushing, is placed

in the chuck. The chuck is then tightened on the split bushing which firmly
grips the three flute drill in an accurate manner. The only other change is
the fact that the gear selector lever H must be placed in a right hand position
where the three flute designation appears in order to provide correct gearing.

INCLUDED POINT ANGLES

One of the most important considerations when sharpening a drill

cluded point angle

. This can be varied on the Oliver Model 600 by swiveling
the chuck. This is accomplished by loosening the T-handle found at the lower
back side of the chuck and bearing assembly. Graduations will be found along
the lower outside area of the chuck base to indicate the included angle that

is

the in



will be obtained during the grinding operation.

118° is considered a standard included point angle for general purpose work.

Your own shop practice will dictate whether or not you wish to have larger or

smaller included point angles for materials such as brass, bronze, stainless
steel, forgings, etc. If you measure the included point angle you will find

that it will vary by a small amount from time to time. This is caused by

several reasons.

Excessive stock removal, different shape of flute, extra
heavy web and variation in setting the drill to the gage will all have a
tendency to change the final included point angle.

The Model 600 drill

the range of point angles available to an approximate minimum of 80° and a
maximum of about l60°.

of the cup wheel also imposes a further limitation on the larger sizes of
drills.

Please refer to figure 3* page 12, which gives greater detail

pointer has certain mechanical limitations which confine

This is not true of all sizes.

The width of the face

regarding this matter.

You will note that a 2-3/4" diameter drill
angle smaller than 100°. If you will refer to the upper right hand drawing

you will find that we cannot grind an 80° included point angle because this
lengthens the cutting lip and the grinding wheel is not capable of covering
the entire area

. The table at the bottom of figure 3 shows the maximum drill

cannot be ground with an included

size that can be ground with the included point angle that is indicated.

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CHISEL ANGLES

When a drill is ground on the Oliver Model 600 Drill Pointer under standard

conditions you will develop an included angle of about 110° when measuring
from the cutting lip around to the chisel angle. We have found over the years
that such an angle produces the best all around results on the Oliver Point.

Sometimes it is desirable to change the chisel angle and this can be done

quite readily by two different methods • The drill

can be pulled away from the

setting gage or moved past the normal setting gage position in a lengthwise
manner to vary the chisel angle. If the setting Is changed in this manner the

clearance that Is ground on the cutting lip will not be disturbed.
You can also vary the chisel angle by positioning the cutting lip above or

below the setting gage. This method will also change the clearance and it will
be necessary to vary the clearance setting by turning handwheel N, figure 1,
page 2, to produce more or less clearance. It will take just a little

experimenting to produce the results desired.
Under normal circumstances, if the chisel angle is increased, the hole size

produced by the twist drill will be somewhat larger. If the chisel angle is

reduced the hole size produced will be much closer to the diameter of the drill

being used. Unfortunately, when you drill holes close to size you then pick up

an increased amount of margin wear which means greater damage and shorter life

to the drill.

CLEARANCE ANGLES

As previously mentioned, the Oliver Point does not employ a constant clearance

angle. The clearance is increased as the center of the drill is approached

regardless of the setting made with handwheel N, figure 1, page 2. The

clearance is variable in that a relatively greater or lesser amount can be

automatically ground at any particular point by use of this hand wheel.

As the hand wheel is rotated a cam adjustment is made to generate the necessary

clearance for the material to be drilled. A series of numbers can be noted
through a sight glass found at 0, figure 1, page 2, at the top of the machine.
The numbers are graduated from 1 to 8 inclusive

The numbers do not indicate any actual degree of clearance and are simply an

indication of the amount of clearance to be obtained. If a greater amount of

clearance is required the hand wheel must be rotated so that a larger number
appears in the sight glass.
this machine with the #

Therefore, minimum clearance can be obtained on

1 setting and maximum clearance will be obtained with

.

the #8 setting.
We feel certain that the ability to obtain any combination of point angle,

chisel angle and clearance angle will produce the most efficient drill

for your production needs

.

point

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INSTRUCTIONS FOR OPERATING OLIVER MODEL 600 DRILL
POINTER EQUIPPED WITH AUTOMATIC AIRDRAUUC INFEED

The automatic feed operates by means of air pressure and oil.

To fill

the unit
with oil, apply the special oil gun furnished with the machine to connection Q,
figure 4, page l4. Make certain there Is no air in the lines or connections.
Use a very heavy oil such as S.A.E. 120 or l4o. You will find a small plungei
R, figure 4, page 14, just opposite the gun connection. There are two notches
or grooves cut on the shaft of this plunger. Force the oil into the cylinder

until the second groove appears at which time the unit is full.
An air regulator and lubricator are sent with the machine for installation be

tween the air line and the feed unit. They should be attached to the machine

as shown in figure 4, page l4 or attached to any adjacent wall of the building

that might be nearby. Attach the air line to pipe connection S, figure 4,
page 14. Set the regulator for 40 pounds pressure. If the unit will operate
with less pressure it will be to your advantage since the feed will operate
much better.

The knurled knob T controls a needle valve which regulates the speed or rate
of infeed.

The button U is the air reverse valve. The knurled dial V is the
micrometer adjustment for regulating the amount of stock to be removed from
the drill. This unit reads exactly like a micrometer. The Allen socket head
pipe plug W is for bleeding the air out of the oil chamber. Loosen this plug
occasionally (do not take it out) and operate the unit a few times to let the
air work out around the threads of the plug. Air in the oil chamber will

cause the feed to be jumpy and uneven.



To test the operation of the unit, set the air pressure at 40 pounds,
needle valve T to the limit and then open one full turn,

Set dial V for .100"

Tighten

stock removal and then pull button U all the way out. The chuck will now start
to move toward the grinding wheel. When it has moved .100" it will stop. Now
push button U in to the limit and the chuck will quickly back away from the
grinding wheel.

CAUTION:
feeding cycle again. The quick return of the carriage assembly has drained

Do not immediately attempt to put the "airdraulic" unit through a

the oil chamber and about 30 seconds are required to let this cylinder refill
with oil.

When operating the machine, this 30 second period of waiting would

normally be spent as the time required for changing the drill in the chuck.

If any attempt is made to operate the automatic feed unit back and forth in

a rapid manner it will cause an accumulation of air in the cylinder. This will
make it necessary to bleed the air off once again.

To grind a drill,

Set dial V at about .030" to .050" to control the amount of stock removal.

Set the needle valve T at position 2 or 3 to control the rate of infeed,

is now necessary to feed the entire carriage toward the grinding wheel in a

set up the drill as previously instructed in this manual.

It

manual manner until the drill just makes contact with the grinding wheel.

15

After contact is made with the grinding wheel discontinue the manual infeed and

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pull button U to the outer limit and the carriage and chuck will automatically
feed inward. Regulate needle valve T so that the drill

can be fed to the

grinding wheel as rapidly as possible without causing any burning of the tool.

After a few days of operation you will be able to judge the proper setting or

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rate of infeed for the various sizes of drills involved.

The machine may also be operated manually at any time,
desirable on the smaller sizes of drills since the grinding cycle is so short.

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Dial V must be at the "zero

” position when the manual operation is employed.

This is probably

CHUCKING IARGE DRILLS

.

The gripping of larger size drills

secure manner is often difficult

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found on the O.D. of the tool.
isometric drawing of the chuck in figure 7> page 30. Figure 5> shown at the

bottom of the page, also shows the proper positioning.
Place the finger so that it assumes a position pointing toward the center area

of the chuck and make certain it is clamped firmly.
drill in the chuck and moved it to the setting gage for length, slowly rotate
the drill until the back side of the land comes in contact with the finger.

Clamp the drill in the chuck in this position. This will eliminate any move

ment of the drill

because of grinding pressure.

The finger will not interfere with the grinding of small drills and can be
left in place if desired. You will find it necessary to move the finger out

f

of position when grinding large size three flute drills with split bushings.

(approximately 2" to 3" diameter) in a

because of the variance in the back taper

Please note the movable finger EE shown on the

After you have placed the



16.

ROTATE DRILL
UNTIL CONTACT
IS MADE HERE

CHUCKING LARGE DRILLS

FIG.

5

DRILL MUST

P

ROJ EC T TO

SETTING GAGE

SERVICE AND REPAIR OF OLIVER

MODEL 600 DRILL POINTERS.

The remaining portion of this manual consists of instructions, cross section
prints and parts list to assist you in the proper care and maintenance of the
machine. Maintenance possibilities most likely to occur will be the adjustment

of the chuck after a period of time and perhaps the replacement of the shear
pin because the chuck wrench was not removed before commencing the grinding
operation

.

The proper method of handling these situations is outlined as weld as several
others. In the event the following instructions do not solve your difficulty
please contact us and outline the problem so we may assist you in correct



ing the problem. When ordering any repair parts be sure to provide information

concerning the serial number of the machine. The serial number will be found

both on the chuck and also on the top of the carriage in front of the chuck.

REPLACING CHUCK DRIVE SHEAR PIN

In the drive to the chuck there is a shear pin. This is a safety device to
protect the machine parts if something should inadvertently stop the chuck.

Many times the operator will leave the chuck wrench in the chuck while he is

doing other work and this is dangerous in two ways

. It could cause personal
injury or break some part of the machine if the unit was accidently started.
If an operator becomes careless and starts the machine with the chuck wrench
in the chuck he will shear a small pin in the drive to the chuck. Follow
instructions below for replacing the shear pin.

Figure 9, page 32, is a cross-section of the body and main drive.

lower right hand corner of this drawing will be found shear pin #6179*

In the

—

To get
to this shear pin, remove the belt guard and then remove the round cap #6177 •
An extra shear pin will be found in a cavity provided in this cap.

shaft #6175 > is a floating shaft and on the end is a collar #6176.

The drive

This shaft
and collar assembly can be pulled out of the machine and taken to a bench to
replace the shear pin. Figure 11, page 3k, shows the far end of shaft #6175
entering into a bevel gear, #6171. This bevel gear has a spline key, #6172.
When assembling this shaft it is necessary to slowly rotate it until the key

lines up with the keyway before the shaft can be pushed back into place.
This gear case is also an oil chamber and a gasket or Permatex must be used
when assembling the cap #6177 back on to the gear case. This is the most

common service required on this machine.

CAUTION

safety shear pin.

Do not attempt to use larger pins or steel pins when replacing this

:

If this drive is made too positive then some other part of

the machine may be broken if the chuck will not turn.

17

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MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT OF CHUCK

The following are preliminary instructions to the maintenance or service people.
From past experience we have found that many times the service man is called
because the drills are not performing satisfactorily. The first thought of most

everyone is that the trouble is in the drill grinder and usually they think it
is in the chuck. We generally find the trouble is elsewhere. There are many
things that will cause a drill to produce oversize holes or to dull quickly.

i

We will cite a few examples and we suggest you check these possibilities

before

attempting to do anything to the chuck.

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Drills may be out of index, the web may be off center or a combination of both.

A drill that is bent will cause a poor point.

The tools may have the wrong
point angle for the material being drilled. The drills may be ground with an
improper chisel point angle or may even be ground with incorrect clearance.

Figure 15, page 37 shows the method used to check a drill to see if the web if
on center. Place the drill on a surface plate and measure from the surface

plate to the lower end of the chisel point.

Then turn the drill

l80° to see

if both sides measure the same. Drills with the web out of center have one
flute shallower than the other. The shallow flute should be ground out either
by hand or on the Oliver Drill Point Thinner designed for this purpose until
both flutes measure the same depth at the point of the drill.

Figure l6, page 37 shows a method used to determine if a drill is out of index.
Place the drill on a surface plate and measure one-half the drill diameter
from the surface plate to the Up at the outer end of the cutting edge. Hold

or clamp the drill in this position and measure to see that both lips measure
the same. Any out of index condition can be corrected on the Oliver Drill
Point Thinner. A drill

can be checked for straightness by rolling it on a

surface plate. There is also some misunderstanding among users of drills as

to how close the hole will come to the size of the drill. Oversize holes may
be caused by spring in the drill press table or spindle, method of holding,
too great a chisel angle, etc.

A Drill Checking Gage complete with dial indicator for accurately comparing the

grind on each cutting lip is produced as a standard product of the Oliver
Instrument Company. We would be pleased to submit details and a quotation at

your request on this particular checking gage.
Check to see if the drills are ground properly for the material being drilled.

We send a chart with each machine illustrating suggested included angles and

clearance settings. This guide should be hung near the machine so that the

operator can grind the proper points on the various drills.

We ask that the

serviceman check these various items before working on the chuck. Many times
the serviceman spends hours working on the chuck and finds nothing wrong only
to discover later that the difficulty was in the grinding of the drill

the geometry of the drill

itself.

or in

18

SERVICING THE CHUCK
This chuck will require some attention and care because of the conditions under

which it is operated. The wearing parts of this chuck are hardened steel. There
is a greasing system built in so when grease is forced in it pushes grit out.
The surplus grease and grit appearing on the chuck should be removed. There

should be a little

m

ake sur

chuck jaws ar

e the jaws_ are open to their, limit. If grease is fo

e in t

The grease wilT~filI the cavity in the chuck and it will be almo

open the .jaws becau

grease forced into the chuck weekly. When greasing the chuck

rced in when the

he closed -position itwjVL

se of ex

cessive grease. If, after checking, it is determined

cause ^consi

derab

le__d

^t_i^o

ifficulty

ssibie to

.

that the trouble is in the chuck, it can be adjusted and centered. This chuck

is a scroll type and is designed so very little

foreign matter can get into the
working parts • Usually it is only necessary to take up the wear in the parts •
The centering can be done without taking the chuck apart. Follow the in



structions closely.

Figure 8, page 31* is a cross section of the chuck and bearing assembly.
Above the cross section is a top view of the various chuck parts. Figure ^

,

page 30 is an isometric drawing showing the chuck and bearing assembly.

First, we recommend greasing the chuck with the jaws open to their limit.

Run the chuck jaws in and out to the extreme positions several times. This
will work an adequate supply of grease into all the working parts of the chuck
so proper adjustments can be made.

To take up the wear of the chuck end-wise, or in line with the length of the
drill,

screws and care should be taken not to get them too tight, but still

all the wear in the parts.

tighten up on screws AA, figure 7, page 30. These are self locking

If these are fastened too tight the chuck jaws

take up

will be difficult to move. They should move with tension. To take up the
wear sideways, loosen lock screw BB and then tighten up on screw CC.

Check

the movement of the jaws and get this adjustment as tight as possible while

still

being able to move the chuck jaws. Tighten lock screw BB.

To center the chuck, make certain the surfaces where the sub-jaws contact
the chuck jaws are clean. We suggest first using chuck sub-jaws #6225,
figure 8, page 31* Clean the sub-jaws and bolt them in place. The screws
holding the jaws want to be tightened up firm but not forced too tightly.

Loosen DD screws, figure 7, page 30, one at a time until all eight are
loose. Next, tighten each of the eight screws but only until the first
contact is made. Do not fasten them firmly. There are four centering screws,

#6227 for centering.

Place a ground arbor approximately 1" in diameter in the chuck and let it
extend out toward the grinding wheel about 1-1/2" or 2" • Make sure the arbor
is long enough so the center can be used in the back end. Tighten the arbor
in the chuck while centering the back end. Mount a dial indicator in a

convenient area so the indicator point can touch the arbor in about the same
location as the point of a drill

would be. We suggest moving the chuck to the
extreme left side of the carriage when centering. Be sure the chuck bearing
is fastened down tight to the carriage.

19

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The usual procedure when checking a cylindrical surface is to immediately find
the high point.

IMPORTANT:

This is not the correct method when adjusting

the Oliver chuck. The steps outlined below should be followed very carefully.

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First, take a reading on opposite sides of the arbor in line with the chuck

jaw movements. Disregard all other indicator readings. After the two opposing

readings have been made it is necessary to loosen the arbor in the jaws before
attempting to correct or minimize the differential. Two screws, #6227* figure
7, page 30, are in line with the chuck jaws and by loosening the one screw,

#6227, on the low side and tightening screw #6227 on the high side, the arbor

can be centered in the proper direction.

Be certain to tighten the arbor in
the chuck jaws once again before taking another reading with the dial indicator.
Usually it takes two or three adjustments to get this centered. At the factory

the differential is maintained at less than .002".

Next, there are two screws, #6227, Tor adjusting the chuck sideways, or at
right angles to the previous adjustment. Use the same procedure as before
and always remember - only read the Indicator when in a position in line with
the direction of adjustment. Never tighten these screws, #6227* down too much.
If these screws are completely drawn down they will tighten the shell of the
chuck against the O.D. of the chuck scroll (#6201). This will cause the chuck

to operate with difficulty or may even lock the scroll so it cannot be turned.
When the chuck is centered, tighten all of the DD screws. We suggest at this
point you loosen each #6227 screw and tighten it just enough so it will not
drop or work out. Actually these screws are not needed once the chuck is
centered

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It is usually advisable to check both sets of sub-jaws. Remove the #6225
sub-jaws, figure 8, page 31> and put in the #6226 sub-jaws. Make sure there

is no grit or dirt under the sub-jaw before it is bolted in place.

.

Put a 2"
or 2-1/4" arbor in the chuck and follow the same procedure as described before.
If the sub-jaws have not been reground, the two arbors should check very close

to the same reading on the indicator. However, if the sub-jaws are worn they
may need regrinding and we recommend the two sub-jaws be sent back to the
factory for this operation. If you attempt to grind these sub-jaws in your
own plant we must warn you that both sides of both jaws must be ground straight

and true. The thickness from end to end must be exactly the same within .0002"
and the thickness on both sides on both jaws must be the same within .0005".
These sub-jaws are case hardened and if too much stock is ground off, or if
the pieces are heated too much in grinding, the sub-jaws will be soft and will
not stay accurate very long.

Usually this will correct any inaccuracy in the chuck,

The whole operation

of centering the chuck requires but a few minutes and the chuck can be kept

as accurate as the work requires.

20

TO DISASSEMBLE THE CHUCK

Should it be necessary to take the chuck apart to wash and clean it all out,
it can be done very easily.

There is no danger of injuring parts, or getting

anything out of line, PROVIDED no force is exerted on any of the parts in

disassembly. When the chuck is reassembled it will have to be adjusted to
get it back on center.
figure 8, page 31> and proceed as follows

To disassemble the chuck see figure 7, page 30, and

:

1. Loosen all AA screws (Fig. 7)

2. Loosen screws BB and CC (Fig. 7)

3. Remove all four #6227 bolts

4. Remove all 8 DD bolts (Fig. 7)

The whole chuck assembly should come off easily.

drivers for driving purposes

•) Light taps on the sides of the chuck with a

(Do not use chisels or screw

soft hammer will loosen it so it can be pulled off the scroll gear #6201, figure
8, page 31.

ground wear plates
their contacting or mating parts.
in some manner while taking them apart so they can be put back in the same

Most of these parts are hardened and ground or have hardened and

As the chuck has been used these parts have worn in to fit

•
Therefore, we recommend marking these parts

relation as in the original assembly.

When reassembling this chuck, pack grease in and around all moving parts.
After reassembly, open the jaws up wide and pump grease in to fill

If the chuck is well filled with grease no water or dirt can get into the

working parts of the chuck

.

all cavities.

TO REMOVE CHUCK AND BEARING ASSEMBLY FROM MACHINE

.

If it becomes necessary to return the chuck and bearing assembly to the factory

for service or repair, it can be taken off and returned as one unit. It takes

only a few minutes to take it off

by removing the drain plug near the T-slot on the operating side

figure 7, page 30. Move carriage to the extreme outer limit. Remove the,

. Drain all the oil out of the chuck bearing

• See FF

,

grinding wheel cover plate #6241, the grinding wheel and the wheel guard #6240,
figure 11, page 34. The guard is held in place with three bolts at the bottom.

There is a spring #6252 holding the chuck base in place.
a tendency to lift

the guard. Move the carriage #6150 away from the main body
assembly with the hand wheel. Loosen the T-handle which locks the chuck in
place and then swing the chuck head away from the body of the machine so that
it is parallel with the carriage

. The wheel guard should now lift off the
machine. The wheel mount #6047, figure V, page 32, may cause a little inter
ference but by tilting the guard the trouble should be eliminated. (See

This spring will have



"Wheel Guard Instructions, page 22.)

Swing the chuck toward the operator until the T-bolt comes out of the T-slot
and remove the T-slot bolt. The unit can then be lifted up off the machine.
There is an oil seal at the trunion where the chuck bearing pivots. (See
figure 8, page 31.) Be careful not to damage this seal. When returning this

21

unit make sure the centering bracket and center bracket bars are included also
along with all chuck sub-jaws. The center bars can be taken out of the chuck
bearing for shipping convenience.

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GRINDING WHEEL SPINDIE

Figure 9> page 32, shows the grinding wheel spindle assembly. The grinding
wheel spindle, #6042, is l/4" eccentric in the quill, #6022. The spindle runs
on taper roller bearings and these bearings need taking up occasionally.

Loose bearings will cause a flat just back of the cutting edge on the drill.

In order to work on the spindle it is first necessary to remove the belt guard
and belt. When removing the belt please note the downward pressure caused by
the weight of the motor which is mounted on a hinged bracket. The motor should
be lowered carefully in order to prevent damage. To eliminate the end play in

the wheel spindle loosen the rear spindle nut, #6050, (loosen locking screw

on nut) and tighten the front spindle nut #6048. Take up the rear nut #6050
until you can feel a slight drag when turning the spindle and lock nut in place.
The taper roller bearings should run with no looseness or end play.

This machine is designed and constructed on the unit principle as can be seen
from the cross section prints. For instance, H in figure 1, page 2, is the
gear shift assembly seen in figure 10, page 33* M in figure 1, page 2, is the
operating wedge assembly seen in figure 10, page 33* N is the cam adjuster

assembly seen in figure 10, page 33, etc.

Figure 9> page 32, is a cross section of the main body assembly. This is made

up of three main castings. The lower part is the larger casting #6010. The

lower half of the quill bearing, #6020, is doweled and bolted to the quill
bearing base. The quill bearing assembly, consisting of the lower half, #6020,
and the upper half #6019, carries the grinding wheel spindle #6042, the quill

#6022, the clutch #6028, the gears #6025 and #6031, the cam adjuster assembly
and cam #6035* The whole quill bearing assembly can be taken off the main body

casting in one unit if it needs to be sent back to the factory for repair or

rebuilding

.

WHEEL GUARD INSTALIATI0N

On machines bearing serial number G6053 or earlier the following procedure

should be noted. Refer to figure 11, page

and locate spring #6252 which
exerts pressure against the gear housing hold down plug #6251. The cotter key
shown at the top of the plug #6251 is not found on the earlier machines

mentioned above. (See guard removal instructions on page 21 under chapter

covertng "To Remove Chuck and Bearing Assembly From Machine."

When reassembling the wheel guard to the machine it will be necessary to provide

some means of holding plug #6251 and spring #6252 in the wheel guard cavity
until you are able to slide it over the gear housing end plate. The plug can
then be released and the guard should be positioned so the bolt holes will line

up for fastening purposes

.

22

REMOVING QUILL BEARING ASSEMBLY
Remove the grinding wheel and the wheel guard #6250, figure 11, page 34. See

"Wheel Guard Installation". Remove "body cap #6018, and belt guard #6255> figure

9, page 32. There are 8 deep counter bore bolt holes in the quill bearing cap
#6019* The four smaller bolts hold the upper and lower halves of the quill
bearing together. The other four bolts hold the quill bearing assembly on the

body casting. NOTE: From figure 9y page 32 there are two oil lines attached
to this assembly. When taking this assembly off, disconnect these oil lines
after the unit is lifted high enough to get a wrench into the opening.

OPERATING CLUTCH
The operating clutch is on the quill assembly shown in figure 9, page 32, and

consists of parts #6028, clutch bolt; #6032, clutch bolt lock; #6027, spring

and #6026 spring retainer.
become worn after long service and will need replacing.

The clutch bolt #6028 and clutch lock #6032

If the machine will

not start when operating the knob M, or if the machine thumps and makes the

chuck move a little at the same time, then it is an indication these parts

need replacing.
To replace these parts first remove the grinding wheel and the wheel guard

#6240. The cap, #6018, figure 9> page 32, should then be removed. It is now

necessary to remove the quill bearing assembly and the following procedure

should be employed.

Remove the wheel mount #60*4-7

#60*4-0 and all eight (8) springs #6053* Perform the same work at the opposite

end of the assembly by removing the adjusting nut #6050, the pulley #60*4-9, the

> the quill end plate #60*4-5, the bearing end plate

quill end plate #60*4-5 and the bearing end plate #60*4-1. It will not be necessary

to take the spindle #6042 out of the quill unless you want to check the taper

roller bearings. Take out all 8 fillister head bolts in the deep counterbored

holes in the quill bearing cap #6019. This releases everything so the bearing

cap and quill can be taken off and placed on a bench. The idler gear #6031 is
held in place by part #6029 (this is a flanged hub). Parts #6029 and #6031
have to come off the quill in order to remove clutch bolt #6028. The #6032

lock is riveted to the idler gear #6031. All other parts that can be inspected

should be checked before reassembly.
There is no timing of gears in this machine. It is important that cam #6035 and

its adjuster #6067 be assembled back into proper place or the cam will not be

in proper relation to the grinding motion to produce the correct clearance.

Center the gear teeth on cam #6035> figure 9> page 32, with the gear teeth

on the cam adjuster #6067, figure 10, page 33- If it is difficult

to do

with the cam adjuster assembly in the quill bearing cap, we suggest removing

this

the cam adjuster and put it in after the bearing cap is in place and bolted down.
To

remove the cam adjuster first turn the hand wheel #6071 in a counter clock
wise direction to the limit. Then remove hand wheel #6071, figure 10, page 33*
This will expose the screws which hold the assembly consisting of the cam



adjuster and component parts in position. The assembly can now be pulled out.

23

[

I

:

i

:

When replacing, turn the cam until the first tooth on the cam adjuster mates
with the first tooth of the gear segment found on the cam.

CAUTION: The assembler should make sure that none of the flexible oil lines

touch any moving part. If one of these lines gets a hole in it there will not

!

be any oil delivered to that part of the machine and trouble will surely develop.

OIL PUMP

The cross section of the oil pump can be seen in figure 10, page 33* To get to

the oil pump remove belt guard #6255 at the back of machine. Pump is attached
to the small rectangular plate below and to the left of the drive pulley #6115 •
The pump assembly can be taken off the machine in one unit by removing the four
screws in the plate #6124. Drain the oil out of the machine first.

Refer to

lubrication instructions on page 4 concerning the use of the three drain plugs

The three flexible oil lines can be disconnected from the pump. Do not pull
the lines out any farther than necessary when disconnecting. It is advisable
to reconnect these lines in the same order they were disconnected. The pump

.

is actually 3 pumps in one. Each pump is exactly alike and each pump works

independently with no interconnecting lines. Eccentric cam #6108 actuates
all three pumps at the same time. This pump is the simple spring actuated
plunger with the two ball check valves.

There is very little

that can go

wrong with this style pump since it only operates at about 200 strokes a

minute. The strokes are only about l/8" long and consequently the pump
actually will never wear out. If some foreign matter should get into the oil
it might cause the check valves to stick or leak.

QUILL DRIVE ASSEMBLY

The cross section of the quill drive assembly can be seen in figure 10, page 33

and partly in figure 9y page 32. This unit can be taken off or out of the
machine by removing the screws in part #6100 which will be found under the belt
guard #6255* This is a simple shaft, bearings and gear assembly which should
require very little service except for the oil seal or the small drive pinion

and shaft #6112, figure 9, page 32. When reassembling any of these plates be
sure to seal them with paper gaskets or Permatex.

CHUCK CARRIAGE

Should it ever become necessary to remove the chuck carriage #6150, figure 11,

page 34, follow these instructions very carefully to avoid any difficulty.

chuck drive comes up through the slide and carriage so these parts have to be

taken out or off the machine. The following procedure and sequence should be

maintained.

24

The

1. Remove wheel guard plate #6241 and disconnect coolant connection,

2. Remove grinding wheel.
3# Remove wheel guard, see instructions on page 22 and also under "Chuck and

Bearing Assembly" on page 21.
Remove chuck assembly, see instructions on page 21.

4.

5. Remove belt guard.

6. Remove shear pin round cover plate #6177* figure 9* page 32 and pull shaft
#6175 out of machine.

7. The chuck drive bevel gear bracket #6165 can now be taken out of the machine

by removing the 6 fillister

head screws in the top rim. The carriage #6150
must be moved nearly all the way in toward the body of the machine. It may
be necessary to move the carriage back and forth a little
location that will permit the assembly to lift

easily out of the machine.

to

find the proper

Disconnect the flexible oil line before pulling the unit out too far.

8. Move the carriage away from the body of the machine as far as it will go.

9. Remove carriage end plate #6159- Remove neoprene apron.

!

P

l

.

I

Figure 11, page 34, shows a stop #6l48 on the screw #6156 which will prevent

removing the carriage with the feed screw. Remove the adjusting collar #6158;
remove hand wheel #6157 and take out hand wheel woodruff key and carriage can
be pulled off the machine. CAUTION - When reassembling this part of the machine

care should be taken to make all joints water tight and oil tight. Plate #6159*

figure 11, page 34, must have a paper gasket or Permatex to seal the end of the

carriage

.

The neoprene apron should have Permatex applied all the way around. Be careful
when replacing the retaining strips that there are no wrinkles or folds in the
neoprene. If water gets in at the top of this neoprene apron it will follow in
and get on the carriage ways. Make certain there is a good water-tight paper
gasket used when putting the bevel gear bracket #6165 back into the carriage

#6150. Also, be sure to connect the oil line.

gasket will let water and dirt down into the oil.

Loose screws or a poor fitting

Make the usual adjustment
on the carriage gib #6151 so the carriage #6150 will not be loose on the slide
#6l45* figure 11, page 34.

WHEEL DRESSER AND SETTING GAGE

The upper left hand corner of figure 11, page 34, shows the plan view cross

section of this unit.
than l/8".

We set it out about l/l6" at the factory. About once a week

NOTICE

: The diamond point should never project more

(depending on how much the machine is used), the diamond should be rotated
to bring a new cutting point next to the grinding wheel. Turning the diamond
regularly will increase the life, will dress the wheel better and enable the
grinding wheel to cut easier.

If the gage blade #6247 should become bent or should wear away it will change
the chisel edge on the drill.

We recommend that a new blade be put on if any
such damage occurs. Wheel dresser shafts show wear rapidly and we have tried
to seal this shaft and make it easy to lubricate. We recommend this shaft be
greased twice a week.

25

CHUCK ANGLE ADJUSTMENT LOCK

At the top of figure 11, page 3^- is a cross section of the lock for the chuck.

Part #6153 is the tee slot holt. Part #6152 is the nut and eccentric bearing.

Part #6154 is the eccentric locking shaft. These parts are in the grit and
dirt and if the chuck is moved quite frequently these parts will wear and will
need replacing occasionally.

GEAR SHIFTER

This machine will grind 2, 3 and ^ flute drills. To grind the different numbers
of flutes it is necessary to change the ratio of the number of oscillations of
the quill to one revolution of the drill. This is done with the gear shifter H,

figure 1, page 2. The gear shifter sub-assembly is also shown in figure 10,
page 33* This is a simple unit in design and can be taken off the machine by
removing the fillister head screws in part #6130. The shifting yoke #6136 is

moved with the gear rack #6135 and the gear pinion #6133*
Removing plate #6130 exposes the lower gearing, oil pump and oil lines.

a good inspection point for these parts. When putting the plate back on the
machine use a paper gasket or Permatex and make sure the yoke #6136 straddles
the gear #6094, figure 9/ page 32. We do not recommend shifting the gears

This is

while the machine is running because sometimes the gears clash quite hard.

When the machine is stopped and the gears do not drop into mesh at the first

or second try, simply roll the chuck slightly to line up the gear teeth.

OPERATING KNOB

.

The operating knob or wedge M, figure 1, page 2 actuates a single revolution

clutch on the quill or main shaft of the machine for starting and stopping
purposes. The operating knob and affiliated parts are shown in detail as the
operating wedge sub-assembly in figure 10, page 33* The unit can easily be
taken out flbr service.

Part #6055/ figure 10, page 33 is the wedge that pulls the clutch bolt #6028,
figure 9, page 32, out of engagement with the drive gear #6031 when stopping
the machine. To remove this unit from the machine, first remove the aluminum

knob #6060, figure 10, page 33/ by loosening the set screw in the hub. Remove
the bolts in the rim of the bearing #6058 and the unit will come off. Wedge
#6055 is a hardened tool steel part complete with hardened cross pins. These

pins do not want to be tight in the holes. After the unit is assembled and put
in the machine the pins will stay in place. Part #6055 receives hard usage and
will need replacing in time.

CHANGE GEAR ASSEMBLY

On

the back side of the body of the machine is a large cast iron side plate

9-1/2" x 14-1/2". This plate carries the change gears #6082, 6083, 6084, 6092,

26

6093 and 6094, figure 9, page 33. This plate or change gear carrier is part
#6080 but does not appear on the cross section prints in this manual. We
usually mount the electrical disconnect switches to this plate. To remove this
unit it may be necessary to remove some electrical boxes first.

The chuck drive shaft #6175 passes through this unit so the shaft has to be taken

out of the machine before the plate will come off. Remove belt guard #6255*
remove the small round shear pin cover #6177 and pull the #6175 drive shaft out.
By removing the bolts in the rim of the plate the unit will come off the machine.

The ends of the gear teeth are beveled to allow the gears to mesh easily.
Again we say - do not attempt to shift the gearing while the machine is running.
The grinding wheel can be running, but do not have the clutch engaged so that

the quill is running when shifting gears.

MOTOR

The motor should be taken out for cleaning and lubrication once a year. The

motor bracket is designed so the motor can be pulled out of the pedestal by

loosening one set screw. On the opposite side of the machine from the operator

there will be found on the pedestal one 1" hole and one 3/8" tapped hole.

The 1" hole is for oiling the motor bracket. The 3/8" tapped hole is a set

screw for locking the motor bracket. Loosen this set screw, remove the belt
guard, take the belt off and pull the motor out of the pedestal. The motor
bracket shaft will support the motor and it can be checked and lubricated
while still attached to the bracket.

:

i

*
:

i

\

:

i

This machine is driven with a vee belt and the motor bracket is hinged so the
weight of the motor applies tension to the belt. With the larger, more power
ful, instant starting type motor the pulley may have a tendency to climb the
belt and this action will make a vibration or noise for a split second. It



does no harm and as the machine wears in the noise will disappear.

GRINDING WHEEL MOUNT

The wheel mount has a series of holes drilled for bolting on the wheel. In

time, these tapped holes may become worn and a new mount will be needed. Also,

this mount should be taken off and cleaned occasionally. Grit and dirt collects

inside the wheel guard and dirt may pack in around the mount to the extent it
may stall the machine. This is more apt to happen to the dry machines than the

wet ones
At this time the seals should be checked and replaced with new ones if the

.

seals are badly worn. When putting the wheel mount back on, be sure to tighten
the spindle nut #6048 securely. The adjustment for the tapered roller bearings
is made at the other end of the spindle.

27

r

■

AIRDRAULIC FEED UNIT

This unit employs very little movement and consequently is subject to very
little

wear. We doubt very much if it will ever be necessary to replace parts
for this reason. The unit is very simply constructed and should be virtually
trouble free. A cross section of the airdraulic feed is shown in figure 6,
page 29, for your convenience. In the event of any difficulty please check out

as follows:

1. Always make certain there is an adequate supply of oil in the reservoir.
The reservoir can be seen at the top of section A-A in figure 6, page 29#
There is a special oil gun supplied with the machine and it should be filled
with a very heavy oil such as S.A.E. 120 or l40. Attach the gun to fitting
645-2 and force oil into the chamber until the second notch appears on the
small shaft #6315. If the unit gets low on oil and the first notch in shaft

#6315 gets back to the end plate #6302 the unit will not function properly.

This is caused by an accumulation of air.

Refill the unit with oil and bleed

out the air once again as directed and the difficulty should be corrected.

2. If the unit does happen to have an unwanted supply of air it can be bled
off by loosening pipe plug #6340, figure 6, page 29 and the filler fitting

645-2. Do not remove these plugs but simply loosen them enough to let the air
escape around the threads. Run the airdraulic unit a few times until the air
has been worked out. You will know that the air has been removed when you
start to get a trace of oil around the plugs in the area where the air had

been escaping previously.

3. The check valve is made up of parts 6309, 6310, 63U as shown in figure

6.

It is possible that this unit could become plugged or that a particle of

dirt might hold the valve open. If this were to happen the unit would not
work. To get to this valve for checking purposes it would be necessary to
remove parts 6332, 6334, 6329, thrust bearing FT-3, 6312, 6306 and the end
plate 6303

•

Part 6309 is actually threaded into the cylinder casting 63OO. It will there
fore be necessary to remove part 6309 with a screw driver. When replacing
end plate 6303 on the machine be very careful not to damage the "O" rings

found in this unit.

4.

It is also possible that the feed adjusting needle 6324 can become plugged
and thus stop the feed. It is usually possible to clear out this passage by
opening up the adjusting needle valve 6324 to the very limit and then operate
the unit a few times. After following this procedure return the valve to the
original setting to see if the difficulty has been corrected. If this fails

to correct the trouble the whole unit should then be removed.

This is done by placing a wrench on part #6325 and treating it like a bolt.

The whole assembly will part from the cylinder casting so that the valve can
be blown clean with an air hose. NOTE: Whenever you have opened this unit
for repair work be certain to bleed the air out of the assembly once again
as described above.

28



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CHUCK ASSEMBLY

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BODY ASSEMBLY

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FIG. 9

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6070

6071

6 060

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6 139

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6 102

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6106

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6 101

6 103

6125

843

6138

6 126

6 12 3

6 12 2

6 120

£

6 12 1

6 I 19

QUILL D

OIL PUMP SUB ASSEMBLIES

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600 DRILL POINTER

BODY SUB ASSEMBLIES

FIG. 10

f r

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diamond

r 6 2 47

r

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6248

6240

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600 DRILL

CARRIAGE ASSEMBLY

6148

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—

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FIG.II

6016

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6172

6173

POINTER

6145

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6165

616 7-

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2" TO

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8

DRILLS

2

T'DRILLS

4-

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IN

GRINDING

FOR

FLUTE CORE

FIG.

THREE

DRILLS

12

USE

r

CHUCKING

LESS

THAN

A 2 FLUTE

2" DIAMETER

FIG.

T

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13

i

DRILL

CHUCKING

A4FLUTE

F I G. 14

DRILL

'

600 DRILL POINTER PARTS LIST

IMPORTANT:
6000

6001
6002
6003

60C*
6010

Motor Bracket
Motor Bracket Shaft
Motor Bracket Shaft Collar
Motor Pulley
Transmission Case

6015 Pan

Furnish the machine serial number when ordering repair parts

Pedestal

6OI6-A Pan Cover Plate
6018
6019

6020
6021
6022

6023
6025

6026

6027
6028

6029

6030
6031

6032
6035

6036
6037

6038

6039

6o40
6o4l
6042
6043

6o44
6045
6046
6047

6048
6049

6050

6051
6052

6053

6055
6056

6057
6058

6059

6060

Quill Cap Cover
Quill Cap
Quill Base
Quill Cap Gasket (2)

Quill

Quill Tubes (Oil) (2)
Quill Clutch Gear
Clutch Bolt Retainer
Clutch Bolt Spring

Clutch Bolt
Quill Idler Gear Retainer
Cam Follower
Quill Idler Gear
Clutch Lock

Cam
Cam Thrust Plug
Cam Thrust Sleeve

Cam Thrust Spring
End Ring (2)
Quill Packing Gland
Quill Packing Gland
Spindle

Spacer (2)
Quill End Dust Seal (2)
Quill End Plates (2)
Wheel Mount Dust Seal

Wheel Mount (WET)

Spindle Nut
Spindle Pulley
Spindle Adjusting Nut

Quill End Plate Gasket (2)
Quill Packing Gland Gasket (2)
Packing Springs (12)
Operating Wedge Bolt

Operating Lever Spring
Operating Knob Shaft
Clutch Wedge Bracket
Clutch Bracket End Plate
Operating Knob

6061
6065

6066

6067

6068
6069
6070

6071
6072

6073
6079

6080
6081
6082

6083

6084
6O85
6086

6090

6091

6092
6093

6094
6100
6101

6102

6103

(front)
(rear)

6104

6105

6106

6107

6108

6109

6110
6lll

6112
6113
6u4

6115

61

16

6119
6120
6121
6122
6123

6124
6125

Wheel Mount (DRY)
Cam Adjuster Bearing (rear)

Cam Adjusting Screw
Cam Adjusting Screw Nut
Nut and Rack Guide
Cam Adjuster Bearing (front)
Cam Adjuster Dust Seal
Cam Adjuster Hand Wheel
Cam Adjuster Plug
Cam Position Pointer
Change Gear End Plate
Change Gear Plate
Idler Gear Shaft
2 Lip Idler Gear

3 Lip Idler Gear

h Lip Idler Gear

2 lap Idler Gear Key-
Idler Shaft Washer (3)
Change Gear Shaft
Change Gear Shaft Key
2 Lip Change Gear

3 Lip Change Gear

k Lip Change Gear

Back Plate
Quill Drive Bracket
Oil Pump Roller Bracket
Oil Pump Roller Shaft
Oil Pump Roller
Drive Idler Shaft
Quill Drive Gear
Quill Drive Pinion
Oil Pump Cam
Quill Drive Bracket End Plate
Drive Idler Shaft Washer
Drive Pinion Cartridge
Drive Pinion
Drive Pinion Spacer
Oil Seal Retainer
Drive Pulley
Pulley Bushing
Oil Pump Roller Spring (4)
Oil Pump Cylinder
Oil Pump Check (3)
Oil Pump Check Retainer (3)
Oil Pump Pistons (3)
Oil Pump Cover Plate
Oil Pump Shaft

38

6126
6130
6131

6132
6133

6134
6135

6136
6137

6138

6139
6l45
6l46
6l48

6149
6150

6151
6152

6153

6154
6155

6156
6157

6158
6159

6l6l
6162
6165
6l66

6167
6168
6169
6170
6171
6172

6173
6175

6176
6177

6178
6179

6l80

6181
6182
6183
6184

6185
6186
6188
6190
6191

Oil Pump Piston Block

Gear Shifter Plate
Gear Shifter Bracket
Gear Shifter Shaft
Gear Shifter Gear

Gear Shifter Slide
Gear Shifter Rack
Gear Shifter Yoke
Gear Shifter Lock
Gear Shifter Spring (2)
Gear Shifter Handle
Carriage Slide
Feed Screw Nut
Feed Screw Stop

Gib Grease Bushing
Carriage
Carriage Gib
Tee Slot Bolt Nut
Tee Slot Bolt

Clamp Handle
Carriage End Plate
Carriage Feed Screw
Hand Wheel
Hand Wheel Adjusting Nut

Carriage End Plate (rear)
Carriage Dust Seal
Carriage Dust Seal Retainer

Miter Gear Bearing

Miter Gear Shaft
Miter Gear
Miter Gear

(2)
(Lower)

Miter Gear Bearing Gasket

Bevel Gear Bearing
Bevel Gear
Bevel Gear Key

Bearing Retainer
Chuck Drive Shaft
Shear

Shear Pin Cap
Shear

Pin Drive Collar

Pin Cap Gasket
Shear Pin (2)
Chuck Bearing Base
Chuck Pinion Shaft
Chuck Drive Pinion
Bearing Spacer
End Plate

Bearing Cartridge
Chuck Bearing Graduation
Bearing Cartridge Gasket
Chuck Bearing

Center Rest Shaft (2)

6192
6193

6194
6195

6196
6197

6200
6201
6202
6205

6206

6207

6208A
6209A

6210A

6211A

6212A
6213A
6215

6216
6217

6219
6220

6221
6222

6223

6224

6225
6226

6227

6228
6229

6230

6231
6232

6233
6234

6235

6236
6237

6238
6239

6240
6241
6242

6243
6245

6246
6247
6248

6249

Center Rest Bracket
Center Rest

Center Bracket Clamp Screw
Center Rest Locking Plug
Center Rest Screw

Center Rest Screw Pin (2)
Chuck Body

Scroll and Bevel Gear
Scroll Retaining Plate
Chuck Nose
Chuck Cheek

Chuck Cheek

"A" Plate (2)
"B" Plate
"C" Plate
"D" Plate

(Stationary)
(Movable

(2)

4)

"E" Plate (2)
"F" Plate (2)
Chuck Jaw (2)
Chuck Jaw Plug (2)
Chuck Jaw Guide Pin (2)

Scroll Pinion (2)
Pinion Retainer (2)

Sub Jaw & Belt Guard Wrench

Chuck Wrench
Chuck Wrench Handle
Sub jaw & Belt Gd

Chuck Jaws (2)
Chuck Jaws (2)

Chuck Centering Screw (4)
Chuck "0" Ring Retainer
Chuck Body Shim
Chuck Body Gear

Oil Seal Retainer Ring
Chuck Body Back Plate
Chuck Idler Gear
Chuck Idler Gear Bushing
Chuck Idler Gear Shaft
Chuck Dust Seal
Chuck Dust Seal Retainer
Chuck Dust Seal (rear)
Wheel Guard Plug
Wheel Guard
Wheel

Guard Plate
Wheel Guard Plate Plug
Wheel Guard Plate (DRY)

Setting Gage Shaft
Setting Gage Ann
Drill Setting Gage

Setting Gage Stop Pin
Setting Gage Lever Hub

)

.Wrench Handle (2)

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6250
6251

6252
6255

6260
6261
6262

843

4171

4193

5154

5175
9531

Setting Gage Lever

Housing Hold-down

Gear

Gear Housing
Belt Guard

Hold-down Spring

R.H.Splash Guard (WET;
L.H.Splash Guard (WET)

Rear

Splash Guard (WET)

Washer

Belt Guard Stud

Nozzle

"0" Scale

Hose Ends (WET)
Pipe Nipple

PARTS LIST FOR AUTOMATIC INFEED:

6300
6301

6302
6303

6304

6305
6306

6307
6308

6309
6310

6311
6312

6313

6314

6315

6316

6317
6318

6319

6320
6321

6322
6323

6324
6325

6326
6327

6328

6329
6330

6331

6332

6333
633^

6335

Carriage Feed Cylinder

Carriage & Cylinder End Plate
Hydraulic Surge Bowl

Cylinder End Plate
Carriage Feed Screw
Oil Piston
Cylinder Stop Collar

Air Piston Retainer

Set Screw
Quick Return Valve Spring Retnr
Quick Return Valve Seat

Valve Spring

Feed Dial
Feed Scale

Oil Expansion Piston
Piston Rod
Oil Expansion Spring
Surge Bowl End Plate
Plunger Rod
Plunger Rod Knot
Plunger Rod Collar (2)

Air Valve Sleeve

Packing Spacer
Air Valve End Plate (2)
Feed Control Valve
Feed Control Valve Nut
Feed Control Valve Knob

Feed Control Valve Seat
Feed Control Valve Spring

Hand Wheel Spacer

Feed Cylinder Bushing
Feed Dial Brake (2)

Feed Screw Nut

Pan

Hand Wheel
Lubro Unit Support

4o

PURCHASED PARTS: STANDARD MACHINES
1 set LL327010-LL327049 Timken bearing

1

set 11225710-1^2257^9 Timken bearin

2 2631-2689 (set) Timken bearings
2 6008 SKF bearings
1 5203 bearings
6 5204 bearings
2 5205 bearings
2 6203 bearings

2 6207 SKF bearings
2 FT-3 Thrust bearings
1 9X2X5" Steel back straight gr. wheel
1

208 Gits Oil Cup

2

B-4904 Bijur Windows

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1 B-5093 Bijur Windows
1 B-5U7 Bijur Windows

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3 #63 x 288 Garlock oil seals

1 #63 x 424 Garlock oil seal

2 #63 x 906 Garlock oil seals

1

#63 x 2032 Garlock oil seal
1 #76 x 753^+ Garlock oil seal
6 4"ID x 4-5/8"OD #14-31 Center Racking
2 RS487 Spirolox Rings
1

7/16 ID x 5/8 OD "0" Rings
2

9/l6 ID x 3/4 OD "0" Rings
1

3/4" ID x 1" OD "0" Rings

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.2 13/16 ID x 1-1/16 OD "0" Rings

2 1-1/2 ID x 1-3/4 OD "0" Rings

1

4" ID x

4-1/4" OD "0" Rings

1 8-1/4 ID x 8-1/2 OD "0" Rings

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1 B68 Belt, "V"
1 Each if

00 & #4 Rockwell Steel Handles

1 6550 Alemite Grease Gun & Fittings

3 3/l6 x 32" Rayon Hose Assemblies

1 7/l6 x 1-3/4" Diamond
1 H2 Graymill Coolant System (WET)

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PURCHASED PARTS - AUTOMATIC INFEED:
2

FT-3 Thrust Bearings

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^ 3/32 x 2-1/2" Piston Rings
1 CB28358 Piston with l/2" Hole
2 D-1795-1 Cup Racking
1 A-1978 Bellows Filler Assembly
1 BCU250A Bellows Lubro Unit

1 FG101 & FG101A Bellows Oil Gun & Adapt.
1 3/l6 x 32" Rayon Hose Assembly
1 1/8 ID x 1/4 OD "0" Ring
1 3/8 ID x 9/16 OD "0" Ring

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2 3/4 ID x 1" OD "0" Rings
^ 1-1/8 ID x 1-3/8 OD "0" Rings
2 1-3/8 x 1-5/8 OD "0" Rings
2 1-3/4 ID x 2" OD "0" Rings
2 2" ID x 2-1/4 OD "0" Rings

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Lithographed in U.S.A. by

EDWARDS

BROTHERS, INC.

Ann Arbor, Michigan

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TOOL BIT GRINDERS

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