Oliver Instrument Drill Point Thinner - Installing and Operating Grinder

Page 1
Directions
for
Installing and Operating
DRILL POINT THINNER
OLIVER INSTRUMENT CO.
ADRIAN, MICH., U. S. A.
Page 2
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OPERATING
INSTRUCTIONS FOR OLIVER
DRILL POINT THINNING MACHINE
The Oliver Drill Point Thinner is an universal drill point thinning machine in that most all types of thinning can be handled on the same machine. All of the operations are done with one grinding wheel. The wheel is dressed with a self contained diamond dresser and no hand dressing is required for any type of thinning. Many operators think the wheel has to be formed to the shape of the drill flute. This is absolutely not required on this machine since we pivot the grinding wheel head to compensate for the various flute shapes found in twist drills.
The machine consists primarily of a pedestal vertically, a carriage which is adjustable horizontally and which in turn supports
9 a column which is adjustable
the drill holding mechanism.
This mechanism consists of a drill rest and a trunion supporting casting which is used to index a two flute drill exactly 180 degrees,
A movable carriage
is mounted on top of the column to which is attached a totally enclosed ball bearing motor. This motor is mounted on a slotted swivel base so that any reasonable com
bination of angles is easily obtainable. The motor carriage is carried on hardened and ground shafts which ride thru ball bushings.
Oil seals on these shafts keep the shafts clean and make it possible to have the ball bushings in an oil reservoir so that the shafts and bearings are properly lubricated at all times. To avoid excessive wear, fill at frequent intervals.
The
reservoir around the bushing and shaft assembly holds one pint of good machine oil. A small oiler found on the side of the carriage (#3524) is used to replenish this
reservoir.
Be sure to double check the oil supply in this reservoir when setting
up since some may have been lost in transit.
When setting the machine up in your cutter grinding department check the
direction or rotation of the grinding wheel. wise as you face the machine,
This will throw the sparks to the left. A sheet metal
The grinding wheel should run clock-
shield will be found on the end of the carriage to deflect these grinding sparks.
DO NOT HAND DRESS THE GRINDING WHEEL
The edge at the 0. D. of this wheel will round over with use. On larger drills the rounded edge can be larger but never let the radius on the wheel get larger than about l/8 the drill diameter. Use the diamond dresser occasionally to keep the rounded edge on the wheel from getting too large.
The drill holding unit can be swiveled for thinning both right hand and left hand drills still using the same shaped wheel. One other operation that can be handled on the machine is to cut-off broken drills with a rubber cut-off wheel
(no wheel furnished).
We suggest the use of a standard drill of the same size mentioned below when making the first set-up on this machine,
When the functions of this machine are
understood then it will be very simple for the operator to set-up for other sizes.
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The following is the set-up, step-by-step, for a 1-1/2" or
thinned and corrected as shown by the No* 1 drill point sketch in FIG-2* This
1-3/4" drill to be
centers the web and makes the two cutting edges 180 degrees apart all in one operation with very little
change in the hook on the cutting edge.
FIG-1 illustrates the machine setup to thin drill points No. 1 and 2 in FIG-2.
First, mount the grinding wheel on the motor and dress it to a sharp corner. To do this, remove the wheel guard cover and make sure the diamond is up out of the way so that the wheel will not touch it* on the wheel mount. Be sure there are paper felt washers on each side of the wheel. Tighten the Allen screw in the diamond bracket so that the diamond will stay in
Place a 6" x 3/4" x 1-1/4" grinding wheel
position.
Before putting the cover on, adjust the diamond downward until it just begins to touch the back corner of the wheel when moving the diamond holder back and forth past the wheel. Put the cover on and turn the diamond down not over l/lO of a turn.
Push the diamond bracket handle K back and forth slowly, screw the diamond down
another approximate l/lO of a turn, push the dresser handle back and forth again. Continue this until the 0. D. surface of the wheel is fully dressed to an angle. NOTICE; feed diamond down when dresser handle is pulled toward operator.
Next, position the motor on the carriage. First, loosen the two motor clamp bolts. the tee slot.
Move it so that the motor base is about 1-1/2" from the right hand end of
Position the motor on an angle about l/2 its full adjustment. See
FIGS. 1, 3 and 4 (if swiveled to full swing or adjustment this would be too much for
this size drill). Now tighten motor clamp bolts.
By setting the motor on an angle, the wheel is drawn thru the drill at an angle which produces the same results as if a wide or formed wheel were used. See sketch D,
FIG-8. The larger the drill the greater the angle that is needed on the motor. See sketch B and C, FIG-8. Sketch B shows the grinding wheel angled only a small amount for smaller drills. larger drills.
Sketch C shows the grinding wheel angled a greater amount for
Sketch A shows the grinding wheel as dressed but without angular
adjustment.
The exact angle for different sizes of drills cannot be graduated on the swivel
because the different types of thinning and the different sizes of wheels require
different angles for the same size drills. However, if a full throat or flute thinning
is required, the motor must be turned until the elliptic of the wheel fits the flute
of the drill.
See sketch D, FIG-8. For the first drill we suggest you do not try the
full flute thinning.
To set the drill, position the square bar almost level or horizontal and set the
swivel J at about 35°. Use the proper sleeves (a) to fit the taper shank on the drill and mount in bracket B. This unit rests in yoke C as shown in FIG-1. Next adjust
yoke C on the square bar until the end of the drill comes near the end of the vee
blockD. Roll the drill until the flute is up as shown in FIG-4 and lock in position
with the knurled screw in bracket B. Loosen nut E and press down on the drill so that
the vee block D will line up with the drill and then tighten nut E. Now, readjust the square bar so that the drill sets nearly level or horizontal. The tang or shank end
never wants to be high, really it should be a little low.
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Raise the motor with hand wheel F so that the wheel will pass over the drill*
Move the motor carriage back and forth with handle G to determine if the grinding
wheel passes over the end of the drill,
of the drill directly under the wheel,
wheel can be brought down into the drill flute.
Adjust the hand wheel H to bring the flute
Then, by adjusting hand wheels F and H the
You will notice the wheel nearly
fits the flute as it passes back and forth thru the end of the drill.
The angle on the wheel should be nearly parallel with the cutting edge of the drill. If it is not, an adjustment can be made by loosening the knurled screw in bracket B and turning the drill until the cutting edge at the 0. D. of the drill is
a little the knurled screw holding the drill in place.
into the drill until the wheel touches the drill in the bottom of the flute,
farther away from the wheel than the center cutting edge is. Then tighten
Continue to lower the grinding wheel
The first touch should be a little spot at the point of the drill just off center toward the operator.
edge or in behind the cutting edge,
See FIG-6. Never start touching or grinding the drill on the cutting
We advise the operator to use his left hand to
hold the drill down in the vee while passing the wheel thru the end of the drill.
Continue to grind by lowering the wheel about .005** or .010" at a time. (Watch graduated dial on hand wheel F) Make 2, 3 or 4 passes thru the drill each time the grinding wheel is lowered.
Grind away about l/4 the thickness of the web. At this
point if the drill should look like drill point No. 2 in FIG-2 and you prefer to
‘ have it like No. 1 in FIG-2 roll the drill slightly and bring the cutting edge
closer to the grinding wheel. Make a few passes to clean up the grind. The amount of roll can be controlled to bring the grind just to the outer edge.
Now
, at this point follow instructions closely,
Set the dial at hand wheel F at ZERO. Turn the hand wheel one turn to the right, pick the drill and drill holder B up out of yoke C and turn it over l/2 turn.
into the vee D and that the pins in bracket B are properly located into yoke C.
Make sure the drill is well seated down
Thin
out this second side of the drill until the graduated dial again indicates zero. By this method both sides of the drill will be thinned in perfect relationship to each
other, the other.
The grind may sometimes indicate that more was ground out of one side than
This is an indication that the drill was not accurate and the thinning
has corrected the geometry at the point.
If, at this point, the web of the drill is still too thick, more can be taken
out of the flute making sure the same amount is taken out of each side by using the
graduated dial at hand wheel F.
The above set up produces the type of thinning most commonly used,
other types of thinning are to be done on the machine we recommend that the operator
Even though
thin his first drill as described above so that he becomes familiar with the operation and principles of the machine.
We found that after an operator has made a few setups and thinned different types of points he soon becomes familiar with the machine and can set it up quickly and accurately. There are no setting gages for the lip of the drill.
The machine
is universal and can do all types of thinning and handle all sizes of drills, 5/16 to 3 inch diameters. This wide range makes it impossible to use any type of setting gage. An operator will soon become accustomed to the use of the machine and will
adopt certain types of thinning which can be easily reproduced.
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A small vee block is supplied with the machine to be used when thinning
small drills.
This block is placed in position on top of vee block D, FIG-1.
TO GRIND A CHIP-BREAKER
To grind a chip-breaker, see FIG-7 and drill point #3 drill in FIG-2. Set
swivel J at 59° (If the drill has a standard 118 degree included point angle). The idea is to get the drill cutting edge parallel with the motor carriage movement. Different included drill point angles require different angle settings. Lift the
square bar up about 20 or 30 degrees as shown in FIG-7. Set the motor nearly square
on the carriage and somewhere near the center. The grinding wheel will then form a
shape similar to sketch A, FIG-8.
Put the drill on the machine as described before and then adjust hand wheel F and H to grind a small chip-breaker the full length of the cutting edge. The drill can be thinned at this same time by grinding a little center. If more or less hook is required on the cutting edge raise or lower the
more out near the point or angle setting of the square bar. THINNING FOR BRASS DRILLING
For brass drilling
see drill point #4 in FIG-2.
Make the setup the same as
for chip-breakers EXCEPT set the square bar down at an angle of 20 or 30 degrees. TO SPLIT POINT ON DEEP HOLE DRILLS
For deep hole drills set the swivel J at zero. Drop the square bar clear down as far as it will go. Set the motor square and a little to the left of the center of the carriage. See FIG-5. The drill is then set in the holder and vee as before. However, with this type of thinning, the chisel angle of the drill must be vertical.
It is very important that the chisel point be set straight up and down as close as can be done visually. so that the back side of the v/heel is in line with the center of the drill. recommend using a 6" x l/4
Position the drill under the grinding wheel with hand wheel H
” x 1-1/4
” hole grinding wheel for this operation as it
We
is not necessary to grind to the 0. D. of the drill. A narrow notch near the center of the drill is all that is necessary.
Lower the grinding wheel at each stroke through the end of the drill until the wheel has reached approximately the center of the chisel point of the dril-1 and then set the dial at ”0” on hand wheel ”F” grind the other side to the same dial reading. This should come very close to the other grind. If it does not meet the previous grind, grind one-half the distance
. Raise the v/heel, turn the drill over and
left and then turn the drill over and grind out the opposite side. THINNING #6 DRILL IN FIG. 2
The drill No. 6 illustrated in FIG-2 is thinned out ahead of the chisel point. By this method of thinning the cutting edge of the drill is not ground at all.
Extreme care must be taken when thinning drills in this manner as this point cannot
be used on all types of materials. This thinning is recommended for lighter or
softer materials.
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C^tional accessory equipment is available for this machine at extra cost# We can supply special trunions to permit the proper indexing and grinding of both three and four flute drills# Extra long drill holder slides (#3586) can be furnished
for supporting long length drills (give maximum length of drill when ordering). Various capacity Jacobs Chucks complete with adaptors can be supplied for use with straight shank tools. A three jaw lathe type chuck complete with adaptor can be furnished for use with very large straight shank tools.
OLIVER INSTRUMENT COMPANY
ADRIAN, MICHIGAN
U.S.A.
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Page 8
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Page 12
Page 13
PARTS LIST
OLIVER POINT THINNER
Quan.
1
1 1 1 1 1
1 1 1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
2
1
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
2
1 1
1 1 1 1 1 1 1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
No* 3500A 3501A 3502C 3503 3504B 3505A 3506 3507 3508
A
3509 3510A 3511A 3512A 3513A 3514A
3515 3516A 3517A
3518A 3519A 3520A 3521A 3522A 3523B 3524C 3525A 3526A 3527
C 3528C 3531C 3532C 3533A 3534B 3535A 3536
3537A 3538
A
3539 3540 3541 3542 3543 3545 3547
3572 3573 3574
3575
3576 3577
Part
Pedestal Column Bearing Column
Column Key
Oil Tube
Column Top Column Bearing Felt
Column Bearing Felt Retainer Plate
Elevating Shaft Bearing Elevating Screw Miter Gear Elevating Screw
Elevating Hand Wheel Shaft
Elevating Hand Shaft Collar
Elevating Screw Thrust Washer
Elevating Shaft Hand Wheel Bearing
Elevating Shaft Bushing Wheel Dresser Arm Wheel Dresser Shaft Diamond Holder Diamond Holder Knob
Cut Off Wheel Spacer Wheel Mount Wheel Clamp
Carriage Slide Plate
Carriage
Motor Bracket Swivel Stud
Motor & Wheel Guard Base
Wheel Guard
Wheel Guard Plate
Carriage End Plate R.R.
Carriage Reciprocating Lever
Reciprocating Lever Shoulder Bolt
Lever Fulcrum Link
Fulcrum Link Shoulder Bolt
Hand Lever Carriage End Plate L.H. Carriage Washer Pivot Clamp Bolt
Pivot Pivot Holder Pivot Holder Index Collar
Pivot Holder Clamp Screw Wheel Dresser Shaft Collar Grinding Spark Guard
#34 Jacobs Chuck Adaptor
Feed Screw Nut
Carriage Feed Screw
Carriage Feed Screw Collar
Carriage Dust Wiper
Carriage Dust Seal Wiper Retainer
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Parts List - Oliver Point Thinner
2 1
1 1 1 1 1 1 1
1 1 1 1
1 1 1
1
1
1
1
1
1 spec
1 spec 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
1 1 1 1 2 sets
4
1 1
2
3579A 3580A 3581A 3582A 3583A 3534A 3585A 3586A
3587 3588A 3589A 3590A 3591A 3592A 3593A 3594A 3595A 3596A 3597A
3598A 3599A 3600A 3601A 3602 3603 415 418 438
643 644 689 6930 6227
Work Carriage Shim
Carriage Slide Mounting Plate Carriage Slide Work Carriage Cap Work Carriage Work Carriage End Plate
#20 Jacobs Chuck Adaptor
Drill Holder Slide
Table Clamp Bolt Washer
Yoke
Sleeve Holder
”V” Block Pivot
"V" Block Clamp Bolt
Drill Holder Sleeve
Yoke Clamp Screw
”V” Block (for small drills)
#1 to #5 Morse Taper Sleeve
#2 to #5 Morse Taper Sleeve #3 to #5 Morse Taper Sleeve #4 to #5 Morse Taper Sleeve Sleeve Holder 3 lip drills Sleeve Holder 4 lip drills Center Rest Arm Cap
Lathe Chuck Adaptor Hand Wheel
Elevating Hand Wheel Dial Feed Screw Dial Set Screw Swivel Bracket Holder Swivel Stud Nut Plug Pulley Washer Hand Wheel
Lock Screw
5/8
” Thrust Bearing
#2 Rockwood Pressed Steel Handle
Davies Ball Knob (#50C)
3/4 Shaft & Bushing Assemblies (Thomson)
1 shaft - 2 bushings 1-1/4
” CD x 3/4
” ID Oil Seals x 3/8
”
l/2 HP, 3600 RPM Totally Enclosed BB Motor
6
” x 3/4
” x 1-1/4
” 38A60 J5VBE Straight
Grinding Wheel
Misc. Screws, etc.
1/2 x 1-3/4 T Slot Bolts
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