Oliver Instrument Drill Pointer - Directions for Installing and Operating Grinder

Directions

FOR

INSTALLING

AND

OPERATING

2

DIRECTIONS FOR INSTALLING

AND OPERATING THE

OLIVER DRILL POINTER

The Oliver Drillpointer is a machine designed for

1

the purpose of grinding drills and produces a point
having a special form which gives an improved
drilling action.

The point has a uniform clearance clear to the

center with a hollow in front of the cutting part of
the chisel point which gives it a cutting action
instead of rubbing at this point.

Tests on the Oliver Point have shown that it

requires but sixty per cent of the feeding pressure

and seventy-five per cent of the horse power with

the same feed and speed as compared with an ordi

nary ground point having the same clearance.

With the Oliver Point, it is possible to use less
clearance at the cutting edge and still have clearance
at the center and this fact permits increased feeds
and gives the drill greater endurance.

These facts are stated in order that the user may
know what to expect and they are borne out by
experience with over one thousand machines in ser

vice. The superior features of the Oliver Point are

obvious to any trained mechanic who is at all
acquainted with drills and drilling.

However, it is desirable when the machine is in
stalled, to have someone of intelligence and training
make some tests of the drilling possibilities of the

points produced by the Oliver Drillpointer in order

to establish confidence with the operators and break

down any established prejudices which they may
have in favor of hand grinding.

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WHEN THE MACHINE IS RECEIVED

2 It should be uncrated and carefully cleaned and the

parts which are packed in a separate box assembled
as shown in the cut, Fig. 1. The wires can then be

connected and the machine is ready for operation.
Choose a location for the machine near a window so

3

that the light will shine on the face of the chuck if
possible—if not, arrange a drop light or adjustable
fixture so that the chuck face and drill will be well
lighted. This lighting gives the operator an oppor
tunity to examine the drill as it is being ground and
will save much time and drill, since no more metal
should be removed than is necessary to renew the
cutting edge.

OILING INSTRUCTIONS

Remove the hand hole cover near the top of the

3

body and fill the gear chamber with good lubricating
oil until it appears in the large oil cup below. This
will require about 214 qts. if the chamber is empty.
Replenish occasionally to keep oil level about half
way up the oil cup. All inside bearings are oiled

from this supply and bearings are adjusted so that

there will be a very slight leakage from the quill and

spindle bearing to prevent entry of any dirt.

CARE OF MOTOR

Remove cover at base of pedestal.

4

This will
expose oil well in front bearing of motor and a cop
per tube will be found leading to the back bearing.
These oil wells should receive about two ounces of
oil before starting the motor and a small quantity
added about once a month.

In connecting the motor, be sure that it is running
in the right direction- This is anti-clockwise as you
face pulley end of motor and is indicated by an

arrow cast on the pedestal just above the motor pul
ley. Running the machine backward will cause
damage to the mechanism.

BELT INSTALLATION

The belt tightener used on the spindle belt is not

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intended to take up the slack of a loose belt but
merely to keep an even tension on the belt as the

spindle pulley revolves around the quill center. The

belt should have driving tension without the use of

the tightener.

If a

very slack belt is used, it will

drag on the hub of the “V” belt pulley.

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4

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

Start the motor and permit the machine to run,

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remove the hand hole cover and observe if oil in
considerable quantity is running over the gearing.
Feel the bearings at intervals and if there is over
heating, stop the machine and loosen the set screw

Y (Fig. 3) in the driving pulley very slightly, then

loosen the nut at the back end of the spindle and
tap the spindle end with a lead hammer,

The
spindle nut and the pulley set screw should then be
tightened.
in the spindle.

Do not permit any appreciable end play

The same procedure is followed
when the spindle requires tightening except that the
spindle nut is drawn up. The spindles are carefully
run-in at the factory and if properly oiled, they

should run with only a slight warming of the bear-
ings.

Raise the operating lever (E), Fig. 1, and permit

the chuck to revolve, starting and stopping the

chuck until the function of this lever is thoroughly

understood.

7 Three sets of false jaws, or hardened inserts, are

included with the machine.

For the No. 51 machine, the ranges are as follows:

Large

set. Drills from 3 " to 11/4," inc.
Medium set. Drills from 21/4" to 1 " inc.
Small

set. Drills from 1%" to

Vk"

inc.

For the No. 41 machine, the ranges are as follows:

Large
Medium set. Drills from 1
Small

set. Drills from 1%" to 1 " inc.

" to 1/2" inc.

set. Drills from %" to 1/4" inc.

For the No. 31 machine, the ranges are as follows:

Large

set. Drills from 114" to %" inc.
Medium set. Drills from %" to %" inc.
Small

set. Drills from V2" to T

y' inc.

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TO GRIND A DRILL

With the correct pair of false jaws in the chuck,

8

raise the setting gauge (A), Fig. 1, and insert the

drill through the back of the chuck, with the left

5

hand, until it touches the setting guage. Clamp the
drill by means of the chuck wrench, using care to

have the land of the drill extend across the point of
the Vee of the sub jaws, that is, the land of the drill
should enter the chuck at a point on the jaw as at

(H), Fig. 2. This precaution will insure the drill
being held at four points on the land. If the land of

the drill enters the jaw at (I), Fig. 2, the chuck will

clamp only on two points and the drill will not be

held securely.

Loosen knob (D), Fig. 1, and the chuck can be
rotated in its bearings until the lip of the drill is
parallel to the top of the Setting Gauge.
tighten knob (D), Fig. 1. Adjust center rest (C)

to support rear end of drill, and tighten the thumb
screw. Lower the setting gauge, remove the chuck
wrench and bring the drill up to within about fa"
of the wheel, by means of the hand wheel (F)

. Raise
the operating lever (E) to the limit of its motion.
The drill is then brought into contact with the wheel
by further use of the handwheel (F).

In changing from hand ground points to the Oliver
Point, it may be necessary to grind off more of the
drill than is possible at one setting. If this is neces
sary, back the drill away from the wheel, lower the
operating lever (E) and reset the drill to the setting
gauge as instructed above. The limit of travel of
the carriage permits about Vs" of the drill to be
ground off at one setting and if this is done the drill

should be reset and finish ground to insure the
proper clearance.

The drill revolves before the operator who can
observe the condition of the lip after each pass of
the wheel so that he can determine when the drill is
ground without stopping the machine. When both
lips are clean and sharp, allow the wheel to make

two or three passes over each lip without feeding.

FOR SMALLER DRILLS

9

It is not always necessary to use the back center

as the jaws will hold a small drill firmly. Experience

Then

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6

will soon enable the operator to save time by taking

advantage of this and other short cuts.

Drills that have the tangs twisted off or do not
have a center by which to support the back end, can
be handled by inserting the taper in a standard
sleeve, which does have a center. Drills up to 24"

long can be supported with the equipment supplied.

Longer drills may be ground by providing a suitable

guide or steady rest of the proper height

for

end, attached to the floor in line with the spindle.

TO DRESS THE WHEEL

10

To obtain the proper clearance requires a per

fectly straight and sharp face to the wheel and a

dresser (G), Fig. 1, and (1319), Fig. 3 is provided

for this purpose. This dresser is pivoted on the car

riage. Draw the carriage back by hand wheel (F),
Fig. 1, until the dresser can be raised to a position in
front of the wheel and then advance the carriage

until dresser engages with the face of the wheel.
Move dresser back and forth across w’heel (advanc
ing by means of hand wheel F), until wheel is
straight and sharp.

Do not permit anything but
drills to be ground on the wheel or any grinding to
be done by hand since this grinding is always done
on the corner of the wheel and it will be necessary to
resurface wheel to get

the

proper grind. When used
properly, the corner of the wheel has very little
grinding to do and will keep its shape. Dress the
wheel often enough to keep it cutting freely and
use the special type of dresser furnished with the
machine which does not break down the corner of
the wheel. These precautions will help avoid pos
sible drilling troubles.

GRINDING 3 AND 4-LIP DRILLS

11

Machines equipped for grinding 3 and 4 lip drills
have a sliding knob (1232), Fig. 3, in the main shaft.
With the knob way in, the machine is set for 2-lip
drills. Pull out about

and the rod stops at a
position located by a spring plunger and is set for
3-lip drills. The next stop is for 4-lip drills. 3 and

the rear

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4-lip drills are set the same as described for 2-lip,
except the cutting edge of lip is dropped about 30
degrees below the top edge of the setting gauge for
3-lip drills and 45 degrees for 4-lip drills. This
varies with different makes of drills, but one or two

trials will determine the proper position.
sharpening 3 and 4-lip drills, remove the heavy cen
ter web on a rough grinder so that the Drillpointer

grinds only the cutting lip. This precaution will save
the grinding wheel, as the corner of the wheel will
wear rapidly in grinding away the heavy center web.
Due to the difficulty of accurately centering a three-
lip drill in a two-jaw chuck, only the smaller 3-lip
drills can be sharpened by holding them directly in

the chuck jaws. The larger drills must have bush
ings bored to the size of the drill and turned to fit
the chuck jaws.

TO GRIND DRILLS OFF CENTER

12

For some purposes, it seems necessary to grind

drills “

off center

” so that it will drill oversize. To
do this, loosen one false jaw and insert a shim of a
thickness equal to the amount of “
and the drill will grind as desired,

off center

” desired

When the

amount is found that gives the best results, make a
permanent shim marked with the job and the drill

can be duplicated accurately at any time.

When

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TO CHANGE THE CLEARANCE ANGLE

13

The machine as adjusted with the drill lip hori
zontal, will give a clearance angle of about seven
degrees. To increase the clearance, loosen knob (D)
and turn top of chuck toward operator. The amount
of clearance for any job can only be determined by
experiment, but when once learned, can always be
duplicated accurately. Usually the harder metals

require less clearance and the softer metals more
clearance.

WATER ATTACHMENT

14

If a Water Attachment is supplied with the ma

chine, it should be used with as nearly full flow as

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practical. This is especially important in grinding
high speed drills, which require a large quantity of
water or none at all. A small stream of water while
grinding is sure to start surface cracks, which will
cause the drill to chip while drilling.
Clean out the water tank occasionally to eliminate
any possibility of clogging. Pipe plugs are located
conveniently at the bottom of the tank for this pur
pose.

BELT DRIVE MACHINE

15

The countershaft of the belt drive machine should
be located directly above the drillpointer. The oper
ating pulley is driven by a

V belt. We can
supply this belt if it cannot be obtained locally. The
spindle driving belt should be of good quality flex
ible leather 1%" wide. Countershaft speed is 550

R. P. M.

GRINDING WHEELS

16

The wheel furnished with the machine is a Norton
Grade L, Grain 3846, which we have found very sat
isfactory. We carry these wheels in stock, which
are true to dimensions and balanced. If the wheels

are obtained from another source, it should be speci
fied that the outside diameter must be within
proper size and the wheel must be balanced.
spindle speed is 2275 R. P. M. In applying a new
wheel to the mount, insert a piece of heavy paper
back of the wheel and tighten all screws evenly and
securely.

TO REMOVE CHUCK

If for any reason, it is necessary to remove the

chuck, first remove the dust ring by loosening clamp
ing screw under the chuck, then remove the two

screws in the bearing cap, unscrew knob (1357),

3, on chuck pinion shaft and lift out the pinion bear
ing (1360) directly underneath. This must be done
before removing the chuck bearing cap, otherwise
the pinion shaft will be sprung, as it is not parallel
with the chuck bearing.

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CARE OF THE MACHINE

18

Remember that this machine is being used under
conditions which require some care. Emery and steel
dust is being sprayed over the machine by the opera

tion of grinding a drill and it should be wiped away

as often as possible. Every part that could be pro

tected has been covered, but if emery is allowed to

accumulate, it will in time, find its way to the wear
ing parts. On the Oliver Drillpointer, two places

require care, the carriage and the drill chuck. The

carriage should be drawn back as

far

as

the stop will

allow and the front end which projects under the

dust seal should be wiped off at least once a day.

The chuck should also receive daily attention and
be kept clear of emery. The wearing parts of this
chuck are hardened steel and there is a greasing sys

tem built in which helps materially in keeping emery
from the working surfaces.

On the opposite sides of the chuck are plugs (J),

Fig. 2, which may be removed and the grease gun

(furnished) screwed in place and cup grease forced
into all the working parts, the surplus working out
between the rubbing surfaces. If this is attended to
once a day and only the surplus grease removed
from the inside of the chuck, it will prevent emery
working into the wearing surfaces.
Should the chuck after continued service show any
inaccuracy, it may be corrected by placing an arbor

in the hardened sub-jaws of the chuck and indicating
to find the direction and amount of the error. If this
error shows only sidewise, it will be high opposite

the screw and on this side will be noticed two holes

(NN), Fig. 2, in the face of the chuck and two holes
(K), Fig. 2, in the periphery of the chuck which are

in line. The holes (K) in the periphery contain set
screws which contact the side liners and the holes in
the face are for locking screws. Loosen the locking
screws (NN) sligthly and then force in the set

(K) in the periphery until the chuck jaws are again

central, then tighten the locking screws in the face

screws

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12

of the chuck. If the jaws are out of center in line
with the screw, you will find that there is a thrust
screw (L) at either end of the tightening screw, also
a small lock screw (M) contacting it from the face of
the chuck. Loosen the lock screws and with a screw
driver, move the adjusting screw toward the center
until the arbor indicates true. This operation brings
the jaws accurately central, the lock screws are

again tightened and the chuck is ready for use. The

operation requires but a few minutes and the chuck

can be kept as accurate as the work requires.

SOME POINTS TO REMEMBER

19

The Oliver Point requires less chisel point angle

than drills ground in any other manner. We do not

depend upon this angle for our center clearance.

Drills ordinarily ground have 130° chisel point
angle. The Oliver Point has 115° to 120° and much
better clearance at the center. Most drills as ordi

narily ground, have 12° to 15° clearance angle. The
Oliver Point has 6° to 8° clearance angle at the edge,
producing a much stronger cutting edge, and suffi
cient clearance for the heaviest feeds possible for the

drill to take.

The hollow at the center makes the drill stronger

because it allows the chisel point to cut its way into

the metal. Due to this increased clearance at the

center, the drill should not be brought forcibly
against the metal as it will bury its point deeply
and may chip near the center. A drill never splits
with the Oliver Point.

20

There are many discussions as to whether a drill

will stand the speeds and feeds recommended by the

makers. They will, if given an opportunity, which
means a properly ground point, a point with the
correct shape accurately ground on a machine.

It is sometimes the case that a drill which seems
to be accurately ground, does not give a hole within
a reasonable limit of the size of the drill and in case
this happens, test the drill for centrality of web and
for index of the lips.

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13

r/G.

The web can be measured by means of a drill

gauge placed on the drill at

right angles to the posi

tion where it is used to measure the length of the lip.

(See Fig. 4). One of these drill gauges should be a
part of the equipment of every operator; they will
settle many arguments. Drills with the web “
center

” have one flute shallower than the other. The

out of

shallow groove should be ground out either by hand
or on the Oliver Point Thinner (designed for this
purpose), until both grooves measure the same depth

at the point of the drill.

A drill can be tested for index of the flutes by

chucking the drill and revolving the chuck 180°, by

power, then compare the position of the cutting edge
with the setting gauge. Drills with the lips “
index

” can be made to drill closely to size by first

14

out of

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grinding in the regular way, then before taking the

drill from the chuck, loosen the jaws and revolve

the drill one-half revolution, setting the second lip in

exactly the same relation to the setting gauge as the
first lip. Now advance the drill to the wheel until a

slight cut is taken from one lip—do not continue

until both lips are ground or the operation must be

repeated. This slight cut will remove the high point

from the long lip and the drill will give a hole close

to size.

21

There is also some misunderstanding among
users of drills as to how close the hole will come to
the size of the drill.

Information that we have been able to obtain
indicates that drilled holes are usually about .005"
per inch diameter larger than the drill, and this
refers to drills carefully and accurately ground by
any method.

Oversize holes may also result from
causes entirely apart from grinding, such as bent
drills, springy condition of the driller table or

spindle, method of holding work, etc.

22

Do not place too much confidence in freak points.

It was proven many years ago, that a point angle of

118° was correct, and twist drills are designed to be

ground with that angle. It will be found most

efficient for the general run of work in cast iron and

steel. High speed drills may be ground dry without
injuring them in any way. If it is understood that
these drills are heated to about 1050 F. (which is

dull red), in the tempering operation, it is evident

that a temperature less than this cannot injure them.
It is also true that they become a deep blue when

used at their proper feeds and speeds. Consequently
a slight color, brought about by grinding, will not do
any harm.

(See previous instructions regarding

grinding these drills with water).

To obtain the best results from High Speed drills

requires a knowledge of the proper feeds and speeds.

(This information can be obtained from the manu

facturer of your drills).

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15

Various lubricants or coolants are used in drilling
and their choice depends upon individual experience.
There is one rule, however, which should be fol

lowed, and that is, use plenty, especially with High
Speed Drills.

New drills have a web thickness of about % the
diameter and this increases toward the shank. It is
advisable for some purposes to reduce the thick

ness to about one-tenth of the diameter. The thinned
point reduces the thrust and if not carried too far
back, does not materially weaken the drill.

23

Care should be exercised in thinning a drill to
keep the web central and its thickness should not be
reduced below one-tenth the diameter. The thin
ning should not run up the drill web more than 21/2
times the width of the web. Thus a 1" drill with

web thinned 1/10", should have the full thickness of
the web *4" back from the point. (The Oliver Point
Thinner is very efficient on this class of work)

. If, at
any time, a drill ground on the Oliver Drillpointer
makes an oversize hole or the point does not look

right, do not assume that the machine is out of time
or needs adjustment, and do not take the machine
down or attempt to make adjustments without first
communicating with the Manufacturer as to the trou
ble. Oversize holes may be the result of the drills
being “

out of center

” or “

out of index.

”

When the drill point looks wrong and does not

have the usual good clearance, first be sure that the
face of the grinding wheel is “
SHARP

” and check the diameter of the grinding

STRAIGHT AND

wheel which should be nine inches plus or minus 3V'.

If, at any time, it should be necessary to take the

machine down, proceed as follows:

First, drain oil from machine.
Next, remove the carriage and chuck from the

slide.

Next, remove spindle No. 1491 and quill cap No.

1202 and quill No. 1290.

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16

Next remove the front plate casting No. 1304 from

the body. If 2-lip machine, remove gear No. 1477.
If 2-3-4 lip machine remove gears No. 1474, No.

1488 and No. 1477, also remove key.

Next remove back plate No. 1268 which will ex
pose all of the mechanism.

(Be sure operating

lever is down.)

To assemble the machine, reverse the process,
replacing No. 1268 and No. 1304 with the gears in
mesh.

Next with the driving belt on pulley No. 1279,
start the motor and raise the operating lever which
will cause the gears to turn over and stop the
mechanism by dropping the operating lever, remove

hand hole cover from body and raise gear No. 1291
until it comes against stop pin; this will leave the
entire mechanism in the “
replace the quill No. 1290 in its bearing—
front end of the quill, you will find the word “

setting

” position. Now,

on the

TOP
and when the gears are meshed, this should be the
highest point on the quill; there is also a hole on
the end of the quill which is used for locating the

eccentric arbor and this hole should come at the
center line of the quill as indicated by the top edge
of the quill bearing.

The quill cap and remainder of the parts can now

be added and the machine will be accurately in

time.

OLIVER INSTRUMENT CO.

Adrian, Michigan, U. S. A.

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”