Welcome to the instruction manual for the Oceanic Saunas Vision Range. This guide is meant to be used
alongside a “Part List” which has specic information for the cabin you have been supplied.
Please take time to familiorize youself with both the steps in the manual and the specic layout of benches
and panels for the cabin your are building before making a start on assembly.
We recommend that this cabin is installed by a compentent carpenter to achieve the most professional
nished product.
The cabin has been designed so no xtures can be easily seen, the use of a F16 or F18 brad nailer is advised
for all trim and there is some ller and sand paper supplied for nishing up the holes.
Once the cabin has been completed you may want to apply a nish, we advise to use a satin water based
varnish (do not apply inside the cabin only on the external faces).
The cabin is self supporting and does not need to be xed to the ground so it is possible to assemble and
slide (with 2 or more people with care) if this is something you require to assemble into a specic area.
2. Tools
• 3 or 4mm pilot drill with countersink or separate counter sink.
• 12mm drill bit.
• Bit extension, PZ2 and PH2 screw driver bits.
• Cordless Screw Driver / Drill
• Spirit level, set square, tape measure, pencil,
• Hand saw or preferrably mitre saw.
• Brad nailer F16 or F18.
• Wood Chisel
• Filler knife or piece of plastic (e.g window packer or similar)
• Safety glasses, dust mask, safety gloves for glass, site specic PPE.
3. Safety
You must wear safety gloves and glasses at all times when handling the glass panels and door.
Please refer to the bather safety rules card supplied before turning the sauna on.
4. Wiring (please refer to heater manual for more detail)
• This sauna should be hard wired to an all pole isolator with RCD protection.
• Note any wires entering the cabin must be 150oC rated silicone. This wire is usually red in colour.
• Heater - The heater wire will either be a 3 or 5 core cable depending if you have built in controls
or separate remote controls. This wire can be hidden using trunking we supply see section 12 in
the instructions for more help.
• If you have remote controls they will rstly have a main brain which should be hidden from view,
then secondly a keypad which goes on a wall outside of the sauna and thirdly a temperature
sensor which will need to be mounted on one of the internal wall panels usually 300mm down
from the ceiling but check with the heater manual.
• Finally you will have the lighting wires, either spot lights in the ceiling or back rest LED strips.
The lighting may be powered o the remote controls if this function is available, alternatively
you can power them o a switched fuse spur.
i. Locate the base drawing on page 2 of the parts list for reference to dimensions.
ii. Use the 4 at brackets supplied to join each corner of the base together.
iii. Mark the holes and pilot with 3 or 4mm drill, use 4 x 15mm screws in each corner.
6. Back Corner Joint
i. The image to the right is showing the back panel in grey which is 665mm on all models.
ii. Countersink drill 4 holes evenly down the panel.
iii. Fix from the back panel into the end of the side panel using 80mm screws.
iv. The panels simply just sit onto the base, don’t x down.
i. The glass panels are xed together using at brackets in the channel as shown below.
ii. Mark all holes with pencil and use 3mm pilot drill for all holes.
iii. Position the brackets evenly but make sure they are staggered from inside and out so the screws
don’t clash. (For example inside face go 50mm down and 700mm down then externally 100mm
and 600)
iv. Fix 4 brackets on the inside and 4 on the outside join. Use 2 x 15mm screws for each bracket.
10. Door Frame
i. The door frame doesn’t have a channel on the external face so only t the brackets to the
internal join.
ii. The door must be installed opening outwards. You can hinge the door from the left or right
along xing 2 screws down into each wall
panel. All joins should be ush.
iii. Continue to add the remaining wall panels.
Sauna & Steam
12. Heater Wire & Wooden Trunking
i. In some cabin layouts you may just bring the wire through one of the solid wooden panels
behind where the heater will be located. But for some of the larger models the heater is
positioned in between glass panels.
ii. We supply enough wooden trunking to go around two sides of the cabin so you will always have
enough no matter where the cable comes into the cabin from.
iii. Route the cable rst and make sure there is enough spare at the heater end for the electrician.
iv. Then measure and cut the trunking along the one or two edges that you require, if you mitre the
trunking the cable will run around the corner perfectly without any other holes or notches being
i. Refer to your parts list for the bench layouts.
ii. For a high bench you will need to x the bench rail at 781mm from the oor and for low bench
481mm.
iii. For one tier of benches x one 640mm rail as shown to the right either at 481 or 781mm from
the oor
iv. For two tiers of benches the second rail 665 will be xed as shown.
v. Dowel plugs have been suppied to ll the holes, these are to be xed in using the ller and cut
o using a wood chisel, sanded at then lled and sanded again if required.
vi. This image shows how
the bench rails are
supported by the 50mm
double round trim and
corner mould with the
concave front. We don’t
recommend that you add
these until the cornice and
skirt is on rst. We think
this gives the best asthetic
look.
iv. Overlap Mould (x over every joint between glass and wooden panels as shown)
Measure cut and x the pieces on using 25 or 35mm brads. (Optionally ll holes, then sand down when
ller is dry)
16. Bench Assembly
Important Safety Information.
The benches may have to support the body weight of several bathers. It is important that they are
correctly assembled; the holes for all screws must be predrilled to prevent the timber splitting. To
tighten the screws use a hand held screwdriver or an electrically operated one with a torque setting
that allows the screw to be fully tightened but not to spin as spinning reduces the holding power of
the screw.
Note the use of a good quality PVA adhesive (not supplied) will improve the durability of the
benches.
Maximum loadings;
Up to 1200 mm no centre support 2 x 12.5 stone people
Up to 1800 mm with 1 extra support 3 x 12.5 stones people
Before commencing the construction of the benches nd the specication sheet for the sauna you
are building. This will give detail of the correct quantities and positions of timbers and xings.
i. Located the drawing in the parts list for the back rest(s).
ii. We recommend xing the back rests together from behind so there are no xings seen. You
can alternatively pin the slats onto the uprights using brad nails and ll / sand.
iii. Use 2 x 30mm screws for the top chambered slat, then use 2 x 40mm screws for the two lower
slats.
iv. Use pieces of corner mould as 19mm spacers.
v. The back rests are to be positioned 75mm from an adjacent wall. Mark with a pencil at 121mm
from the adjacent wall and 375mm up from the bench. (As there is a gap behind the bench
we recommend using a piece of wood and marking 375mm on it, then using this to mark your
xing points)
vi. For the remaining xing positioned measure between the keyways (dimension A)
vii. We recommend a height of around 250mm o the bench so 375mm for the screws will give
you this.
viii. Pilot with 3mm drill and x 30mm screrws where needed.
Check male / female connection
to power supply before installing
17.1. Back Rest LEDs
i. Find the length(s) of overlap mould with the routered channel for the LED strip to mount into.
ii. If necessary cut the piece of timber to the required length so that it can be mounted beneath
the two outermost vertical timbers on the back rest as shown above.
iii. The LED strip has male connector on one end and female connector on the other.
IMPORTANT make sure the correct end is at the correct location to be connected to the power
supply.
iv. If there are two back rests you will be supplied with 2 separate rolls of LED which can be
connected via an extension cable (also supplied). See diagram on page 19 for more details
v. Unravell the LEDs and marry the strip up along the channel, make sure you have the input end
where you will want to bring the holes through the wall.
vi. When you are happy with the length of the LED cut the strip across the incidated lines on the
stip cleanly through the copper tracks.
vii. Remove the self adhesive tape and x the LED into the wooden track.
viii. Fix the assembled LED unit to the underside of the backrest timbers using the nail gun or use a