NuTone PP7001, PP6501, PP5501 Installation Guide

INSTALLATION GUIDE

CENTRAL VACUUM POWER UNITS

PUREPOWER SERIES

PP5501, PP6501 & PP7001

AB0039

FOR RESIDENTIAL USE ONLY

BROAN-NUTONE LLC; HARTFORD, WISCONSIN WWW.NUTONE.COM 1-888-336-3948

EGISTER YOUR PRODUCT ONLINE AT : WWW.NUTONE.COM/REGISTER

MODELS SFDB-DQ, SFDB-DR AND SFDB-DS

24010 rev. B

IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE USING THIS APPLIANCE

When using an electrical appliance, basic precautions should always be followed, including the following:

WARNING

To reduce the risk of fire, electric shock or injury:

1. Do not use on wet surfaces or outdoors.

2. Do not vacuum liquids or fine powders (such as drywall dust).

3. Do not use to pick up flammable or combustible liquids such

as gasoline or use in areas where they may be present.

4. Do not pick up anything that is burning or smoking, such as

cigarettes, matches, or hot ashes.

5. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary

when used by or near children.

6. Use only as described in this manual. Use only

manufacturer's recommended attachments.

7. Keep hair, loose clothing, fingers and all parts of body away

from openings and moving parts.

8. Turn off all controls before unplugging.

9. Use extra care when cleaning on stairs.

10. Do not handle plug or appliance with wet hands.

11. Do not use with damaged cord or plug. If appliance is not

working as it should, if it has been dropped, damaged, left outdoors, or dropped into water, return it to a Service Center.

12. Keep your work area well lighted.

13. Connect to a properly grounded outlet only. See grounding

instructions shown on page 10.

14. When performing installation, servicing or cleaning the unit,

it is recommended to wear safety glasses and gloves.

CAUTION

1. Do not put any object into openings. Do not use with any

opening blocked; keep free of dust, lint, hair and anything that may reduce air flow.

2. Ensure air flows freely and exhausts unobstructed from top

or side outlet.

3. Do not use without filter (or filters, according to the model)

in place.

4. Do not use to blow leaves or debris.

5. Do not place any object on top of the unit.

6. Do not install the unit horizontally.

7. Do not use the pail as a wash bucket.

8. Do not use the pail as a stool.

9. Avoid picking up sharp objects.

10. This appliance is for use on a standard 120 VAC, dedicated

20-amp branch circuit.

11. Do not unplug the unit by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp

the plug, not the cord.

12. Store your vacuum cleaner indoors in a clean, dry area, and

away from extreme temperatures.

13. Any servicing other than that recommended in this manual

should be performed by an authorized service facility.

14. We recommend that your unit be inspected by a specialized

technician once a year.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

SYSTEM PLANNING LAYOUT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4-5

THE RANCH STYLE HOUSE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

HE TWO-STORY HOUSE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

THE SPLIT-LEVEL HOUSE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

LOCATING THE POWER UNIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

THE RANCH STYLE HOUSE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

TUBING AND WALL INLET LOCATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

GENERAL INSTALLATION GUIDE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-6

TOOL LISTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5

WORKING WITH PLASTIC TUBING. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5-6

INSTALLATION IN NEW CONSTRUCTION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7-10

WALL INLET ROUGH-IN. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

INSTALLING THE TUBING. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8

WALL INLET INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9

CI399 ELECTRAVALVE™ ELECTRIFIED INLET INSTALLATION (CI399RK ROUGH-IN). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

CI1358 SUPERVALVE™ WALL INLET & ROUGH-IN KIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11

INSTALLATION IN EXISTING CONSTRUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12-18

LOCATING ACCESS KEYS IN EXISTING CONSTRUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

AVOIDING IN-WALL OBSTACLES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12

INSTALLING THE INLET TUBING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12-14

WALL INLET INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14-16

C370 OR 360 SERIES INLETS (CF361 OR CF361F ROUGH-IN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16-17

MODEL 330 SERIES WALL INLET INSTALLATION (CF329 ROUGH-IN) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17-18

FLOOR INLET INSTALLATION IN NEW AND EXISTING CONSTRUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18

CI377W CANSWEEP® UNDER CABINET INSTALLATION. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19-20

CI377W CANSWEEP® BASEBOARD WALL INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

ASSEMBLING THE TUBING SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22-24

POWER UNIT INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25-27

CHANGING INTAKE LINE DIRECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

CONVERTING POWER UNIT FROM CYCLONIC OPERATION TO A BAGGED SYSTEM (DEBRIS BAG INCLUDED) . . . . . . . . . . 25

MOUNTING THE POWER UNIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26

FITTING MAIN LINE TO POWER UNIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

GROUNDING INSTRUCTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

WIRING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

FINAL SYSTEM CHECK. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

WARRANTY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 29

SERVICE PARTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30

SYSTEM PLANNING AND LAYOUT

The NuTone central cleaning system consists of a power unit, PVC tubing and fittings, wall inlets, a flexible hose and various cleaning attachments.

The power unit is designed to be wall-mounted away from the living area of the home and connected to the living area by means of permanently installed in-wall tubing, fittings and inlets.

Generally, an installation will require 3 to 4 inlets and 16 to 20 feet of tubing per inlet. It is suggested that a floor plan be used to more accurately determine the quantity of materials needed.

Use the following examples as an aid in planning the installation in either new or existing construction. You should be able to adapt the examples shown to your specific home layout.

THE RANCH STYLE HOUSE

Here the power unit is mounted in the garage. The intake and exhaust tubing, the only exposed tubing in the installation,

EXHAUST

runs up the garage wall and into the attic. The trunk line runs horizontally through the attic from the power unit to the farthest inlet location. Branch lines spread throughout the attic, connecting the trunk line to the inlet tubing. Each inlet tube is threaded vertically through an inside wall. Located in hallways and in large rooms, the inlets are placed to provide maximum access to all

POWER

UNIT

INTAKE

cleaning areas. See figure at right.

AH0003A

THE TWO-STORY HOUSE

A double-trunk line system is commonly used in two-story houses. In the installation shown at right, the power unit is mounted in the basement. The intake tubing runs up the basement wall and connects to the main trunk line, which runs along the unfinished basement ceiling. Two first-floor inlets are connected to the basement trunk line by vertical inlet lines run through interior walls. In the center of the house, a vertical branch line runs from the basement trunk line, through stacked closets, up into the attic. A second trunk line runs across the attic and two branch lines connect to inlet lines which are dropped down through upstairs interior walls. See figure at right.

THE SPLIT-LEVEL HOUSE

AH0005A

TRUNK LINE

VERTICAL

BRANCH

LINE

INTAKE

POWER

UNIT

BRANCH LINE

INLETS

AT TIC

TRUNK

LINE

EXHAUST

BASEMENT

TRUNK LINE

INLET LINE

INLET

LINE

INLE

Like the two-story house, the split level installation commonly calls for a two-level trunk line. Here, the power unit is located in the garage. The intake tubing runs exposed up the garage wall and into the ground level section's attic. Two branch lines connect this part of the trunk line to inlet lines which are dropped inside interior walls. A vertical branch line runs to the upstairs attic, where the trunk line branches into a T-shape. This trunk line connects to two upstairs inlet lines and to one inlet line which drops through an upstairs wall and down into the third-level utility room to service this entire level. See figure at right.

AH0004A

EXHAUST

BRANCH

VERTICAL

BRANCH

LINE

TRUNK

LINE

POWER

UNIT

INTAKE

BRANCH

LINE

INLET

LINES

INLET

LINE

INLET

SYSTEM PLANNING AND LAYOUT (CONT'D)

WARNING

Do not install outdoors. When performing installation, servicing or cleaning the unit, it is recommended to wear safety glasses and gloves.

LOCATING THE POWER UNIT

• Locate the power unit away from the general living area in an accessible location for cleaning and maintenance.

• When planning the installation of PP7001 power unit, remember it is equipped with an inlet to service a garage, basement, utility room, etc., wherever it is located.

• Locate the power unit within 6 feet of a grounded electrical outlet. The power unit requires a 120 VAC power source.

• Do not locate the power unit close to a source of extreme heat (i.e.: water heater) or in an area with a high ambient temperature (i.e.: attic, furnace room).

• If the power unit is located in a closet or a small utility room, make sure the area is well-ventilated (e.g.: with door louvers).

• Exhausting the power unit to the outside is recommended for optimal performance. The exhaust should not be vented into a wall, a ceiling or a concealed space in the house. The exhaust line should be vented outside the home using a Model 393 or CI330 wall caps.

TUBING AND WALL INLET LOCATIONS

 Locate inlets on interior walls, choosing central locations

which allow several rooms to be cleaned from a single inlet using a 30-foot long hose.

 The tubing installation should consist of a main trunk line

running from the farthest wall inlet to the power unit location, with branch lines running to each additional inlet. Keep all tubing lines as straight as possible and use as few fittings as possible.

 Beginning at the area farthest from the power unit, choose

a tentative inlet location. Measure 30 feet from the proposed inlet location to the farthest corner of the rooms to be cleaned by that inlet to determine if inlet location is proper. If working from blueprints (or building plans drawn at 1⁄4" = 1 ft. scale), use a 7½" chain as your guide to determine inlet locations.

 Locate inlets within six feet of an electrical receptacle to

allow use of optional current-carrying hose.

 Be sure inlets will not be blocked by doors or furniture.  Be sure inlets will not interfere with electrical, plumbing or

other mechanical installations.

 Move tentative inlet location if necessary. Use the same

procedure to determine each additional inlet location, always working toward the power unit.

GENERAL INSTALLATION GUIDE

WARNING

When applicable local regulations comprise more restrictive installation and/or certification requirements, the aforementioned requirements prevail on those of this document and the installer agrees to conform to these at his own expenses.

TOOL LISTING

Depending on your installation, you may require the use of these tools. The power tools are recommended to make your installation proceed quickly. Also, plan a mask when cutting ducting (PVC dust) and gloves when using glue.

• Wire Strippers • 1/4" Drill • Level • Flashlight

• Utility Knife • Putty Knife • Drill Bit • Electrical tape

• Knife • Hammer • Screwdriver • Safety Glasses

• 2½" Hole Saw • Keyhole Saw • Wrench • Hacksaw

• 1/2" Drill • Cold Chisel • Tape Measurer

WORKING WITH PLASTIC TUBING

CUTTING THE TUBING

Before you cut a length of tube, accurately measure the length you need. Allow 5/8” of tubing for inserting into fittings and 1½” for placing into flexible tubing. Cut the plastic tubing with a hacksaw, making sure that the cut is exactly square. (You can use a tube cutter if one is available.) Use wire cutters or tin snips to cut flexible tubing. The 8” lengths of flexible tubing supplied with each inlet should not be cut. See figure at right.

AR0016

Use a small knife to remove any burrs from the inside of the tube. You can also use steel wool to remove burrs. The burrs must be removed or they may impede air flow of form clogs by snagging hair and carpet thread. See figure at right.

AR0017

GENERAL INSTALLATION GUIDE (CONT'D)

WORKING WITH PLASTIC TUBING (CONT'D)

CUTTING THE TUBING (CONT'D)

Next, use a file to slightly bevel the outside of the tube so that it will easily slide into the fitting. Use steel wool or a light grained sandpaper to buff the surface of the tube which will be glued. This will clean the tube and assure a good seal. See figure at right.

MAKING A JOINT

Insert the tube into the fitting, aligning the two parts as they will be installed. Mark the tube and the fitting so that you can quickly realign the joint. See figure at right.

Apply cement only to the outside of the tube. Dab the cement generously in an inch-wide band. Insert the tube into the fitting with the alignment marks a quarter turn apart, and then quickly push and turn the fitting to align the marks and spread the cement. Allow one minute for the joint to dry. You may also use electrical tape or duct tape to further seal the joint. See figure at right.

AR0018

AR0019

CEMENTING FLEXIBLE TUBING

Make sure the ends of the flexible tubing are even—trim if necessary. When you join flexible tubing to plastic tubing or to an inlet mounting plate, apply cement to both the inside of the flexible tubing and the outside of the plastic tubing or mounting plate tubing ring. Twist the two pieces as you join them to evenly spread the glue. Allow five minutes for the cement to set in flexible tubing. You may also use electrical tape or duct tape to further seal the joint.

SECURE WIRE TO T UBING

The low-voltage power wiring is run along with the tubing. To insure that the wire is secure and will not hang-up in a wall, use electrical tape to attach the wire to the tubing. Tape the wire approximately every 12-18 inches. See figure at right.

AO0011

AO0010

INSTALLATION IN NEW CONSTRUCTION

WALL INLET ROUGH-IN

Once the locations for the wall inlets have been determined, mount all inlet brackets.

 Choose the appropriate mounting bracket for the inlet being installed. (See chart below.)

ROUGH-IN SERIES

395 396-3 CI3301RK CI3303RK CF329 CF361 CF361F CI399RK 330 X X X 360XX XX

CI358 Rough-in and wall valve sold together

SERIES

WALL VALVE

 To locate a bracket on a wall stud, measure approximately 18" up from finished floor level. (Height may vary according to

individual preference.)

CI399 X

MODELS CF361 & CF361F (FOR USE WITH 360 INLET)

 Refer to figure below. Nail bracket to the side of the stud so

that the front edge of the bracket is flush to the front of the stud. (The bracket may also be nailed to the front edge of the stud. See face mounting illustrated. For face mounting, use locating tabs on bracket for proper alignment.)

MODEL CF361 & CF361F

SIDE

MOUNTING

23/8"

AD0059A

FACE

MOUNTING

/16"

MODELS CF329 (FOR USE WITH 330 INLETS)

 When using Model CF329, glue elbow to

mounting plate. Attach to stud as shown in figure at right.

AD0015

 Refer to figure below. Remove cardboard from plaster guard

frame. Using four (4) provided screws, attach the appropriate flanged fitting and inlet seal to back of inlet.

 Replace cardboard in plaster guard frame

AD0060

INSTALLATION IN NEW CONSTRUCTION (CONT'D)

INSTALLING THE TUBING

Use the following installation guidelines when installing tubing.

B Start tubing installation at farthest inlet and work toward the

power unit.

C Tubing run to the power unit should be as straight as

possible.

D When assembling sections with elbows and tees, make sure

the curve in the fitting is aligned so that the air flows toward the power unit.

E Branch lines should always join the trunk line from above

or from the same level. Never join a branch line from an angle below the trunk line.

I Refer to figure at right. Cut tubing,

keeping cut square.

AR0016

F Refer to figure at right. Run

low voltage wiring (Model 376UL) and secure wiring to tubing as tubing is installed. Model CF380 Pipe Support can be used to support long runs of tubing (position near joists) and to clip wire along tubing. Secure tubing to joists or studs. Leave approximately 6" of wire for connection to each inlet.

G Cut a 2½" diameter hole in sole plate, header or stud

AE0040

directly in line with opening of inlet bracket fitting. See figure below for center line dimensions.

MODEL CF361 MOUNTING

2½” DIA. HOLE

SIDE MOUNTING

AD0055A

THROUGH SOLE PLATE

”

/16

MODEL CF329 MOUNTING

2”

FACE MOUNTING

”

THROUGH SOLE PLATE

”

/16

”

/16

FACE MOUNTING

2½” DIA. HOLE

”

/16

J Refer to figure at right. Remove

burrs from both inside and outside of tubing.

AR0017

K Before cementing, pre-assemble section to inlet fitting,

check for proper length.

L Refer to figure at right Apply PVC

cement (Model 379) to outside of tubing. Coat tubing approximately 1" back. Take care to keep cement from inside of tube.

AR0020

M Refer to figure at right. Insert tubing

into fitting with a twisting motion to evenly spread cement. Be sure tubing is firmly seated in fitting.

AO0012

N If fittings have been attached to tubing at the end opposite the

inlet bracket, be sure alignment is proper before cement sets.

H Refer to figure below. Measure length of tubing needed to

connect inlet to trunk line. Allow approximately 3⁄4" of tubing for inserting into fittings.

INCLUDE FITTING RECESS

3/4”

(19 mm)

FITTING

AD0017A

IN MEASUREMENT

TUBING MEASUREMENT

PVC TUBING

(19 mm)

FITTING

3/4”

O Refer to figure at right. Tape wire

to tubing to hold in place and insert through hole in inlet bracket.

AD0018

P Connect each inlet line and branch line into main trunk line.

Complete low voltage wiring as main trunk line is continued back to power unit.

WARNING

When tubing is run through the wall stud, sole plate, headers or else where building materials will be attached, place a nail plate (Model 378) over that area (on both sides if necessary) to prevent nails from piercing tubing.

INSTALLATION IN NEW CONSTRUCTION (CONT'D)

WALL INLET INSTALLATION

MODEL 360 WALL INLET (CF361

B Remove the cardboard plaster guard.

C Refer to figure at right.

For some drywall or panel construction, the plaster frame will extend beyond the finished wall. In this case, remove plaster frame from mounting bracket by removing mounting screws.

NOTE: When using the model CF361 and CF361F inlet

INLET MOUNTING

AND CF361F ROUGH-INS)

AR0045

bracket on walls thinner than 1⁄2", use a 1⁄4" spacer (not furnished) between the wall and the inlet bracket. See figure below. Spacer may be made from plywood, Masonite™, etc. Contact cement may be used to hold spacer in place during assembly. Configuration of spacer may vary depending upon installation.

BRACKET

SPACER

1/4"

WALL LESS THAN

/2" THICK.

MODEL 330 WALL INLET (CF329 ROUGH-IN)

B Refer to figure at right. Connect

2-conductor low-voltage wire to terminal screws on back of wall inlet.

C Align inlet mounting holes with

holes in mounting plate.

D Refer to figure at right. Place

inlet into mounting plate and secure with two provided screws.

INLET

AE0024A

MOUNTING

PLATE

21/4"

AD0057A

D Refer to figure at right.

31/4"

PLASTER

GUARD

HOLE

Connect 2-conductor low voltage wire to terminal screws on back of wall inlet.

AE0040

E Guide excess wire back through the hole in inlet bracket and

flanged fitting.

F Refer to figure at right. Place

inlet into mounting bracket and secure.

INLET

AE0024A

MOUNTING

PLATE

INSTALLATION IN NEW CONSTRUCTION (CONT'D)

CI399 ELECTRAVALVE™ ELECTRIFIED INLET INSTALLATION (CI399RK ROUGH-IN)

B Fasten the mounting plate onto a stud. Locate the lower hole

on the mounting plate marked “Wire Trap” and use a zip tie to secure the wire to the back of the mounting plate at the 10” mark.

C Position the assembled wire plug through the top hole in the

mounting plate. Secure the plug to the mounting plate tab as shown. This will keep it secure and out of harm’s way during drywalling and finishing.

D Run the wire to the adjacent electrical box. If the

wire is to run through a stud, drill a hole directly on the center of the stud and run the wire through. Strip 6 inches of outer sheathing from this end of the wire and place the wire into the electrical box through a strain relief. Ensure the strain relief is tightened against the outer sheathing (do not over tighten). Leave 1/2” of sheathing inside the outlet box. Fold the 6” of black and white wires into the outlet box. Leave the wires to be connected by the electrician when the outlet receptacle is being installed.

E Once drywall and finishing have been completed, pull the

plug off the tab and snap into the opening on the back of the new ElectraValve®. Ensure the plug is securely locked into the position as shown. Attach the low voltage wires to the screw contacts.

Ta b

Wire Trap

1/2” Outer

Sheathing

CAUTION

Power tools such as routers are not recommended for use with the inlet installation, as removal of drywall with these devices may cause damage to the mounting plate and/or inlet plug.

F Insert the valve into the mounting plate and secure the valve

to the mounting plate with the screws provided.

WARNING

All location and installation direct connect electrified wall valves must conform with all local and municipal building codes.

Low Voltage Wires

Valve

locking

tabs

AE0050A

C1358 SUPERVALVE™ WALL INLET & ROUGH-IN KIT

AL0008A

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS

FOR HOUSEHOLD USE ONLY. INSTALL ONLY ON A NOMINAL 120 V, 60 Hz, 7 A SUPPLY

PROTECTED BY A MAXIMUM 15 A OVERCURRENT PROTECTIVE DEVICE.

THE PIN CONNECTOR ON THIS TYPE A WALL VALVE IS INTENDED FOR USE ON

A NOMINAL 120 V, 60 Hz, 7 A SUPPLY ONLY. IT IS REQUIRED TO BE WIRED BY A

QUALIFIED ELECTRICIAN AND IS REQUIRED TO CONFIRM

TO LOCAL ELECTRICAL CODES.

WARNING

Do not operate on wet surfaces!

NEW CONSTRUCTION

Install BUILDING WIRE CONDUCTORS (1) through the approved type electrical CONNECTOR (2) (supplied) until they

protrude approximately six inches from connector. Seat connector firmly into the opening atop the WIRING COMPARTMENT (4). Insert and secure LOCKING TAB (3).

C Splice wires from INLET VALVE RECEPTACLE (7) to the protruding building wire conductors with no. 31 TWIST-ON WIRE

CONNECTORS (8) (not supplied). NOTE: WHITE wire to WHITE wire and BLACK wire to BLACK wire.

D Feed LOW VOLTAGE RELAY WIRES (5) through opening in the LVT COVER PLATE (6) and connect to the two contact screws

of INLET VALVE FACE PLATE (9).

E Push Inlet Valve face plate (10) into MOUNTING PLATE (11 ). At the same time, push ELECTRICAL CONDUCTORS (12) and

connectors (8) into WIRING COMPARTMENT (4). Back out the two screws that hold the wiring compartment in place. Slip upper FINISHED WALL CLIP (13) under the screw\heads and tightly fasten both wiring compartment and upper finished wall clip (13) with MOUNTING SCREWS (supplied).

F Install the lower FINISHED WALL CLIP (14) with screws (supplied). G Secure Inlet Valve face plate (10) to mounting plate (11) using the two supplied color matched SCREWS (15).

No. LR 61865 No. 27Z2

FINISHED CONSTRUCTION

After pipe, low voltage relay control wire, electrical building wires and opening in wall has been cut:

B Remove mounting plate NAILING FLANGE (16). Use a hack saw or score with razor knife along dotted line and snap off. C Repeat step B (from NEW CONSTRUCTION). D Install modified mounting plate with short 90° ELL glued in position into wall opening. E Repeat steps C - G (from NEW CONSTRUCTION).

INSTALLATION IN EXISTING CONSTRUCTION

LOCATING ACCESS KEYS IN EXISTING CONSTRUCTION

Unless your home is a ranch-style house where a single trunk line can run directly through the attic or basement, you should first investigate your house to find the key to running your tubing from level to level. Look for an accessible area free from obstructions that will accommodate the 2" tubing.

If you understand how your existing home is constructed, it can be relatively easy to find access routes to run the tubing. Refer again to the illustrations on page 4 as you consider your home construction.

Some of the keys you might find in your home are illustrated here.

STACKED CLOSETS OR LAUNDRY CHUTE

Many homes will have an upstairs closet located directly above a downstairs closet. It is easy to run the tubing from one floor level to another inside these stacked closets. In these installations the tubing is often left exposed inside the closets. See figure below. A laundry chute could also provide access from basement to upper floors. You may also want to consider running exposed tubing through cabinets or cupboards.

Use the following procedures for installation in existing construction. Wall inlets in existing construction may be accessed from below (basement or crawl space) or from above (attic). Instructions apply to either method.

Starting from farthest wall inlet location, install each inlet as described below. Working back toward power unit, connect each inlet line and branch line into main trunk line. See page

24. Complete low voltage wiring as main trunk line is continued back to power unit. Mount power unit and complete wiring. See pages 27-29.

AVOIDING IN-WALL OBSTACLES

The tubing which connects the inlet into the trunk line is threaded through interior partition walls. After you’ve chosen an inlet location, make sure the wall doesn’t contain some hidden obstacle which will prevent you from running tubing to the inlet.

ELECTRICAL WIRING

The insulation in these walls will prevent you from running tubing through them.

EXTERIOR WALLS

Wiring may not obstruct your tubing, but you should always make sure that tubing does not damage the wiring. Electrical outlets and wall switches are signs of wiring.

D0019

COLD-AIR RETURN

A cold-air return often provides a straight run from basement to other levels of the house. See figure below. The ductwork is easily cut for access. Seal around the tube when completing the installation.

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DUCTWORK

Avoid choosing a section of wall that contains ducting. If you see signs of ductwork—such as floor or ceiling registers— move your inlet location to another section of the wall.

PLUMBING

Plumbing may or may not prevent you from running tubing through a wall. If you must choose a plumbing wall for an inlet location, be extremely careful when making a cutout in the wall.

WALL STUDS

Make sure your location is between wall studs. Locate studs by tapping walls, looking for electrical outlet (usually fastened to studs), or noticing finishing nails in the floor molding.

INSTALLING THE INLET TUBING

When your planning is complete, you will have to determine where all the inlets and the power unit will be located. You have also mapped out the location of your trunk line and found the access you need to run vertical tubing from one level of your house to another level. You should have acquainted yourself with the methods of joining plastic tubing and acquired the tools you’ll need to install your NuTone Central Vacuum System. Now, you can begin installation.

The first step to install the inlet tubing which connects the wall inlets to the branch lines. As explained before, the inlet lines run inside interior walls. You will find access to these walls through your attic or basement. Briefly, you want to find the exact location in the wall, drill an access hole through the wall plate or header, and insert the tubing into the wall cavity.

This part of your installation requires close observation and careful measurements. Take your time and make sure you accurately line up your access holes with the locations you’ve chosen for your wall inlets.

INSTALLATION IN EXISTING CONSTRUCTION (CONT'D)

INSTALLING THE INLET TUBING (CONT'D)

LOCATING ATTIC ACCESS HOLES

Drill the access holes directly above the inlet location. To accurately locate the access hole, you must find the space between wall studs where the inlet is to be located. Observe the area around the inlet location. Look for references you might be able to find in the attic: electrical wiring, ductwork, doorways, etc. Measure and note the distance from these references to the inlet location.

Enter the attic and find the inlet wall. Have a helper downstairs knock on the top of the wall right above the inlet location; locate the general area by following the sound. Most likely, you will have to clear away insulation. Ask your helper to continue knocking until you locate the area between wall studs directly above the inlet location.

Next, measure the thickness of the wall. Mark the exact center of the wall where you will drill the access hole. Remember that the access hole must be placed exactly in the center of the wall.

LOCATING BASEMENT ACCESS HOLES

To locate access holes in the basement, remove the toe molding or baseboard at the base of the inlet wall. Carefully loosen the molding or baseboard by inserting the blade of a putty knife behind it. Force another putty knife between the first knife and the baseboard or wall. Gently hammer a cold chisel between the two knife blades, prying the loosened molding away from the baseboard or the baseboard away from the wall.

Directly below the inlet location, drill a 1/16” reference hole through the floor into the basement. (If you’re drilling through carpet, use an awl to slightly open the weave. This will keep the carpet from wrapping itself around the drill bit.) Insert a piece of scrap wire or a clothes hanger into the reference hole so you can easily find the hole in the basement.

Drywall

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Drywall

Wall Plate

Once you’ve found the location in the partition wall, you must center the access hole in the middle of the wall. Measure half the thickness of the wall and mark the center of the wall where you will drill the access hole. If you cannot see the plate, you can determine this measurement from upstairs. At the nearest doorway, measure the thickness of the wall, including the baseboard.

In the basement measure a distance equal to half the thickness of the wall, using the reference hole as a starting point.

DRILLING THE ACCESS HOLES

Once you are certain that you’ve located the center of the wall directly above the inlet location, use a 2½” hole saw to cut the access hole through the wall plate or header and into the wall cavity. (A 1/2” drill is recommended.) Remove the drill from the hole

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carefully.

Now, use a flashlight to inspect the wall cavity through the access hole. Make sure no hidden obstacles will interfere with the tube installation. (If this inspection reveals an obstacle, find a new inlet location.) Repeat this procedure in your attic or basement until your access holes are drilled.

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ASSEMBLING THE INLET TUBING

Once you’ve drilled the access holes, you assemble the inlet tubing and insert it into the wall cavity. Refer to “Working With Plastic Tubing” on pages 5-6 before you begin to assemble the inlet lines.

Select a section of plastic tubing and an 8” section of the flexible inlet tubing. Apply cement to the outside of the plastic tubing and to the inside of the flexible tubing. Join the two pieces together and allow 5 minutes for them to dry.

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INSTALLATION IN EXISTING CONSTRUCTION (CONT'D)

INSTALLING THE INLET TUBING (CONT'D)

ASSEMBLING THE INLET TUBING (CONT'D)

Cut a piece of low voltage wire which is long enough for the complete inlet line, allowing 6” for connections to the inlet wall plate. Secure the wire to the tubing with electrical tape.

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Tuck the 6” wire lead inside the flexible tubing so that it will not snag inside the wall.

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If space permits, you can assemble the entire inlet line by joining two sections of tubing with a stop coupling before dropping the assembly into the access hole. (Remember to only glue the outside of the tubing when joining two pieces of PVC tubing.) Oftentimes, tight attic spaces require you to begin your drop and then join the second section of tubing. Of course, the order of assembly, and the length of tubing required depend on your attic space and your wall height.

Whatever the case, insert the completed inlet line into the access hole and thread it down inside the wall. The inlet line should be long enough so that it extends above the joists in the attic; at this height, it can be easily connected to the branch and truck lines. When cutting the inlet tubing to length, remember that your inlet will be placed at 18” above the floor.

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AO0017

For a basement installation, assemble the tubing to the inlet flexible tubing in the same way and insert it into the access hole. A basement inlet line is necessarily shorter because it must only reach 18” from the floor to the inlet. Most of the time, basement inlet lines are more easily installed by two people after the inlet hole has been cut in the interior wall. See “Wall Inlet Installation.”

Complete all your inlet lines, and then proceed to your inlet installations.

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WALL INLET INSTALLATION

The wall inlet design allows you to work outside the wall— where assembly is easy and all the parts you need are accessible. First, you make a cutout into the wall and locate the flexible tubing attached to the inlet line which you previously threaded into the wall. Then, you attach the flexible tubing to the inlet mounting plate, assemble the other inlet parts, and make the wiring connections. You place the inlet assembly into the wall cutout, sandwiching the wall between the inner and outer parts, and secure the inlet tightly to the wall with two screws.

Assemble and install the wall inlet as shown in the illustrations and as explained in the next few pages. Be careful and patient as you make your first cutout and install your first inlet by following the procedure step by step—the other inlets will be easy to install in very little time.

MAKING THE WALL INLET CUTOUT

The wall inlet should be located 18” on-center from the floor and directly in line with the attic or basement inlet tubing hole you have already drilled in the wall plate or header. the wall inlet cutout must be exactly 3 7⁄8” high by 2 7⁄8” wide. It is crucial that you make an accurate cutout, and we have supplied a template to help you.

INSTALLATION IN EXISTING CONSTRUCTION (CONT'D)

WALL INLET INSTALLATION (CONT'D)

MAKING THE WALL INLET CUTOUT (CONT'D)

Place the template against the wall so that it is 18” on-center from the floor. Use a level along the top edge of the template to make sure it is square to the wall. Mark your wall for the cutout by tracing around the inside of the template. Then use your pencil to mark the screw hole locations through punched holes at the top and bottom of the template. Remove the template from the wall.

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3/8”

Use an awl or icepick to punch pilot holes where you marked the two hole locations. Now, drill two 3⁄8” diameter holes, using the pilot holes as the centers. Locate and drill these holes exactly as marked with the template.

Also drill four pilot holes in the four corners of the marked area. Make sure these holes are located inside the marked line. Then, using a utility knife, score along the inside of the marked line. For plaster walls, score the plaster deeply, being careful to stay inside the marked line.

Next, use a keyhole saw or a sabersaw to make the cutout. Again, be extremely careful to cut along the inside of the marked line.

CAUTION

When cutting into plaster walls, make sure the plaster is firm and secure around the cutout area.

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DIA. HOLES

Pilot holes must b

inside marked line

Cut along inside of marked line

ATTACHING THE INLET MOUNTING PLATE

Reach through the inlet hole and locate the inlet tubing. Raise it up inside the wall until you locate the inlet tubing. If the inlet is connected from the basement, have a helper insert the inlet tubing into the access hole until you can see the flexible tubing. Then, pull the flexible tubing through the inlet hole and remove the low voltage wiring from inside the tube. If the end of the flexible tubing is not even, trim it so that it is exactly even.

Now, remove the nail flange (used for new construction) from the inlet mounting plate. Use pliers to bend this flange along the scored lines until you can break it off.

Apply cement to both the inside of the flexible tubing and to the outside of the mounting plate’s tube ring. Insert the mounting plate’s tube ring in the flexible tubing and twisting the pieces as you join them to spread the cement, and align the mounting plate in a vertical position.

Hold the assembly in place for a few minutes as the cement sets; allow 5 minutes for the cement to completely dry.

Now, strip the ends of the two low voltage wires, and then connect the wires to the screw terminals on the back of the inlet cover. Make sure the wires are tightly secured under the terminal screws.

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Nail Flang

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INSTALLATION IN EXISTING CONSTRUCTION (CONT'D)

WALL INLET INSTALLATION (CONT'D)

ATTACHING THE INLET MOUNTING PLATE (CONT'D)

When the wiring is complete, assemble the inlet cover to the tube guard and mounting plate. Insert the top screw through the entire inlet assembly until the screw engages the mounting plate.

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COMPLETING INLET ASSEMBLY

Once you have attached the mounting plate to the flexible tubing, pull the low voltage wire through the top wiring hole in the mounting plate.

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Insert the bottom screw into the inlet cover and through the other parts. Give the screw a few turns until it firmly engages in the mounting plate. Now, level and slightly lower the assembly. Make sure the wall is sandwiched between the inner and outer parts—you’ll be able to feel if mounting plate is firmly centered on the inside of the

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wall.

Hold the inlet in place and gradually tighten down each screw a little bit at a time. (If you completely tighten down one screw at a time, the mounting plate may pull away from the wall at the loose end and slip back into the cutout.)

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Complete all your wall inlet installations in this manner. If your cutouts are accurate, each wall inlet will install more quickly and easily.

INSTALLING THE INLET

When you place the inlet into the wall cutout, the mounting plate and tube guard slip inside the wall; the inlet cover remains on the outside.

Holding the inlet assembly between your thumbs and fingers, angle the bottom of the mounting plate into the cutout. Push the assembly downward until you have clearance at the top of the cutout.

Push the top of the mounting plate into the cutout and lift the assembly upward until the top screw seats in the predrilled hole. At this point, the wall should be sandwiched between the mounting plate and the frame plate.

INLET

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MOUNTING

PLATE

360 SERIES INLETS (CF361 OR CF361F ROUGH-IN)

NOTE: If 330 wall inlet is being used refer to Model 330 Series

Wall Inlet on next page.

B If area is clear, cut an inlet opening in the wall approximately

18" above the floor. Make sure wall opening and 2½" tube hole line up (see figure below).

31/16 "

29/16 "

21/2"

18"

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INSTALLATION IN EXISTING CONSTRUCTION (CONT'D)

360 SERIES INLETS (CF361 OR CF361F ROUGH-IN) (CONT'D)

NOTE: If the wall for mounting the Model 360 inlet is less than

1⁄2", a spacer must be used. See figure below as a guide.

INLET MOUNTING

BRACKET

SPACER

1/4"

WALL LESS THAN

/2" THICK.

F Attach the low voltage wires

to terminal screws on back of wall inlet (see figure at right). If using 361 Rough-in with CI370 Series Inlets, refer to instructions on page 7, step D, shown in its figure.

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21/4"

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C Cut a length of tubing that will extend from inlet opening to a

31/4"

PLASTER

GUARD

HOLE

point below floor level (or above ceiling level in attic installation). Tape low voltage wire to tube and insert tube through predrilled hole to a level opposite the wall opening.

FLANGED

FITTING

D Apply cement to tube and

install flanged wall fitting. Make sure fitting is well seated and sealed (see

LOW

VOLTAGE

WIRING

figure at right).

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E Remove plaster frame from mounting bracket. Pull low

voltage wire through hole in bracket and insert bracket into cutout. Secure bracket to flanged fitting with 4 screws provided. Be sure seal is secure between flange fitting and mounting bracket (see figure below).

G Insert wall inlet into bracket

and secure with the two screws provided (see figure at right).

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MODEL 330 SERIES WALL INLET INSTALLATION (CF329 ROUGH-IN)

1/4"

(6 mm)

/8"

B Make cutout according to

dimensions in figure at right.

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C Refer to figure at right. Break

off nail plate at scored line.

(98 mm)

1/4"

(6 mm)

/4"

(70 mm)

3/8

" (10 mm) DIA.

3/8

" (10 mm) DIA.

/8"

(35 mm)

Nail Flang

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MOUNTING

D Refer to figure at right. Glue

elbow to mounting plate,

PLATE

ELBOW

place assembly into cutout, and attach elbow to tubing inside the wall.

MOUNTING

HOLE (2)

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INSTALLATION IN EXISTING CONSTRUCTION (CONT'D)

MODEL 330 SERIES

INLET

EXTENSION

MOUNTING

BRACKET

CUT TO

LENGTH

EXTENSION

SLEEVE

FLOOR

INLET

/16"

WALL INLET

WALL INLET INSTALLATION (CF329 ROUGH-IN) (

E Make sure mounting holes are exactly at top and bottom. F Connect 2-conductor low voltage wire to terminal screws on

back of wall inlet.

G Refer to figure at right.

Align inlet mounting holes with mounting plate holes, place inlet into mounting plate, and secure with provided screws.

NOTE: If CF382S shorter radius elbow is used, it may be

necessary to use the short mounting screw to avoid interference with elbow.

CONT'D)

INLET

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MOUNTING

PLATE

FLOOR INLET INSTALLATION IN NEW & EXISTING CONSTRUCTION

MODEL 360 SERIES INLETS (361 ROUGH-IN)

B Refer to both figures below. After floor inlet location has been

selected, cut a 3 ¹⁄16" x 2 9⁄16" square hole in floor. Center line of inlet must be located at least 2½" from wall to allow cover to be opened when hose is inserted.

TOP VIEW

/16"

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SIDE VIEW

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C Determine direction of tubing and attach appropriate flanged

MOLDING

21/2" MIN. APPROX.

fitting to mounting bracket with four (4) screws supplied. Be sure mounting bracket flange does not interfere with tubing and seal is securely in place.

WALL

MOUNTING BRACKET

FLANGE

D Refer to figure

at right. Position bracket with

FLOOR

SUB-FLOOR

frame and flanged fitting assembly into cutout from below and secure to sub-floor.

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E Refer to figure at

right. Large end of Model 399 extension sleeve should be cut to length to allow proper seating of inlet against floor or carpet.

F Refer to figure at

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FITTING

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right. Pull low-voltage 2-conductor wire through mounting bracket and attach to terminal screws on back of floor inlet. Cement extension sleeve to Model 360 inlet. Insert extension

TUBING

sleeve through vinyl gasket in

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mounting bracket and firmly seat into flanged fitting.

G For convenience of operation, floor inlet should be installed

to open back toward wall.

H Refer to figure of step D. Secure floor inlet in place with two

screws.

31/16"

FRAME

SEAL

FLANGED

FITTING

MOUNTING

BRACKET

FLANGE

EXTENSION SLEEVE

BRACKETFLANGED FITTING

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