INSTALLATION & OPERATION GUIDE
MODELS
•
HD
HD•CTR
HD
HD
HIGH DEFINITION
CTR
•
•
LRS
LRS
www.nilesaudio.com
Niles Audio
Corporation
1 2331 S.W. 130 Street
Miami, Florida 33186
Tel: (305) 238-4373
Fax: (305) 238-0185
Printed in Taiwan
©1999 Niles Audio Corporation. DS00196A
B LENDING H IGH F IDELITY AND A RCHITECTURE
®
®
Congratulations!
Features and Benefits
Introduction
Thank you for choosing a Blueprint Series In-Wall Loudspeaker®from Niles.
With proper installation and operation, you'll enjoy years of trouble-free use.
Niles manufactures the industry's most complete line of custom installation
components and accessories for audio/video systems. For a free full line catalog
write: Niles, Catalog Request, P.O. Box 160818, Miami, Florida 331 16-0818
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION 2
FEA TURES AND BENEFITS 2
INST ALLATION CONSIDERA TIONS 4
SPEAKER PLACEMENT 6
INST ALLATION FUNDAMENTALS 1 0
INSTALLATION OF BRACKETS, FRAMES AND GRILLES IN NEW CONSTRUCTION 14
INSTALLATION OF BRACKETS, FRAMES AND GRILLES IN EXISTING WALLS 16
INSTA LLATIONOFTHE SPEA KER AND GRILLE INNEW OREXISTING CONSTRUCTION 17
OPERA TION 20
SPECIFICA TIONS 2 1
LIMITED WARRANTY 22
©1999 Niles Audio Corporation. All rights reserved. Because Niles strives to continuously improve its products, Niles
reserves the right to change product specifications without notice. Niles, the Niles Logo, Blueprint Series In-Wall
Loudspeakers and Blending High Fidelity and Architecture are registered trademarks of Niles Audio Corporation. Dolby
is a registered trademark of Dolby Laboratories Licensing Corporation. Decora is a registered trademark of Leviton
Manufacturing Co. DS00196A
The HD or
Blueprint Series In-Wall Loudspeakers
offers speakers expressly designed for
superior sonic quality. They employ
advanced technology components
designed to extract the subtle nuances in
recorded music or the thunderous action
in a movie. They are perfect anywhere
that quality of sound is the
consideration.
High Definition
most
group of
important
Features and Benefits
Dolby Digital Ready
The HD•CTR (Center) and HD•LRS
(Left/Right/Surround) are specifically
designed for Home Theater Sound. They
exceed the specifications set forth by
Dolby Laboratories for the accurate reproduction of Dolby Digital Encoded Sources.
Directed Sound Field Geometry™
(DSFG)
Both the HD•CTR and HD•LRS employ
Niles’ Directed Sound Field Geometry
(DSFG). With DSFG, the tweeter is offset
from the center of the dual woofers. The
resulting acoustic interaction between the
woofers and the offset tweeter results in
the flattest frequency and phase response
approximately 15° off-axis from the tweeter. This gives optimum performance to a
seated listener even if the loudspeakers are
mounted above a built-in TV.
Mica Filled Polypropylene Woofers
with Inverted Butyl Rubber Suspension
The unusually stiff and light polypropylene
cone is filled with mica to enhance its rigidity for the fastest, most accurate response.
Additionally, the use of an Inverted Butyl
Rubber Suspension offers substantial benefits including: increased movement without
An HD•CTR or HD•LRS Speaker Kit;
®
CTR•LRS Bracket Kit; and CTR•LRS
Frame/Grille Kit are required to install
one HD•CTR or HD•LRS In-Wall
Loudspeaker in either new or existing
construction.
mechanical limitations; weather resistance;
and improved midrange damping for better
detail and clarity.
ElastoDynamic™ Hybrid Dome
Tweeter
Constructed from a composite matrix of
elastomers and natural fiber substrates, the
ElastoDynamic™ tweeter offers extended
high frequency response without any harsh
ringing or overshoot.
Video Shielding (HD•CTR)
The HD•CTR utilizes special video shielding to enable it to be installed in close
proximity to a video monitor without negative effects on picture quality.
Acoustic Fine Tuning
Both the HD•CTR and HD•LRS feature baffle mounted Acoustic Fine Tuning Controls.
The HD•CTR’s controls enable optimization
of the high frequencies and the Dialog with
3dB of Treble Cut and 3dB of Dialog
Enhancement. The HD•LRS’s controls
enable optimization of both low and high
frequencies with 3dB of Bass and Treble Cut.
2
Features and Benefits
DSFG Defeat (HD•CTR)
Main/Surround Configuration (HD•LRS)
Both the HD•CTR and HD•LRS feature
crossover mounted switches which customize the response of the speaker. In the
HD•CTR, the switch controls whether the
Directed Sound Field Geometry feature is
On or Off. (It is useful to switch it Off when
the speaker is installed at ear level, for example, behind a perforated screen). In the
HD•LRS, the switch sets the speaker’s
response for Main (front) or Surround. The
Surround setting manipulates the response of
the speaker to provide a diffuse sound field.
BumpBack™Woofer Magnet(s)
Niles engineers have utilized a unique
magnet construction allowing far greater
“throw” or voice coil excursion. This
allows a new level of deep bass performance to be achieved.
X-Matrix™ Reinforced Baffle
The X-Matrix Baffle design uses specially
molded ribs to add rigidity to the baffle
assembly. The end result is better bass and
improved midrange detail.
Absolutely Flush to the Wall
Appearance
The unique mounting system of the HD
loudspeakers powerfully clamps the frame
to the bracket, sandwiching the wall material between them. Because the clamping
action is totally uniform around the frame,
there are no shadows or gaps between the
wall and the frame. Additionally, the Niles
mounting system is carefully optimized to
stiffen the surrounding drywall and prevent it from resonating. You hear only the
music, not the drywall.
Easy Retrofit Installation in your
Existing Home
Designed for ease of installation, the Niles
mounting system makes retrofit installa-
tions simple and fast. A supplied template
assures fast and accurate hole cutting. The
bracket slips behind the drywall and the
screws secure the bracket to the frame,
sandwiching the drywall between them.
The speaker baffle attaches to the frame,
and the grille mounts over the speaker.
Three Stage Installation System for
Remodels or New Construction
You install only the parts you need for a
particular stage of construction. When the
framing and wiring are finished, you
install the
but before the painter begins to paint, you
install the
aluminum
they can be painted to match the surroundings. Only when construction is
completely finished do you put the valuable
to mask or prep the speaker for painting,
and worries about theft during the final
phases of construction are never an issue!
Infrared Sensor Mount
The speaker baffle has a locator designed
for the Niles MS-1 MicroSensor,™ a
miniature infrared sensor. The MS-1
installs discreetly behind the aluminum
grille and therefore minimizes wall clutter in your home. When you want to
control your equipment, you simply
point your remote control at the speaker
from up to 15 feet away.
Low Diffraction, Paintable
Aluminum Grilles
HD speakers come standard with aluminum grilles. The grille has hundreds of
precisely sized perforations, creating an
acoustically transparent grille. The aluminum construction is 100% rustproof.
bracket
frame
speaker
. After the drywall is up,
and provide the rustproof
grilles
to the painter so that
in the wall. You don’t have
Bracket
Acoustic
Fine Tuning Controls
Installation Considerations
Recommended Amplifier Power
For satisfactory performance, we recommend an amplifier with a power rating of
ten to one hundred fifty watts. Curiously,
most speakers are not damaged by large
amplifiers but by small amplifiers. If your
system is playing loudly, a small amplifier
will run out of power very quickly. When
an amplifier runs out of power it creates
damaging “clipping” distortion. A more
powerful amplifier will play at the same
volume without distorting. See the section
on operating the speakers for more information about clipping distortion.
Speaker Wire
Use 2-conductor speaker wire when connecting HD speakers to your receiver or
amplifier. For most applications, we recommend you use 16 or 18 gauge wire.
For wiring runs longer than 80 feet we
recommend 14 gauge wire. The spring
loaded terminals of the HD speakers will
accommodate up to 12 gauge wire
directly. Larger sizes can be accommodated via pin connectors.
When you run wire inside walls, special
jacketing (CL-2 or CL-3) is required to
both protect the wire and for fire prevention. In some areas conduit is required.
For a trouble-free installation, low voltage
wire such as speaker wire must be run in
accordance with the National Electrical
Model HD•LRS Shown
New Construction Wings
Frame
Figure 1
SpeakerBaffle
IR Knockout
Installation Considerations
Grille
3
4
Installation Considerations
Code and any applicable provisions of the
local building code. If you are unsure of
the correct installation techniques, wire
jacket or type of conduit to use, consult a
professional audio/video installer, your
building contractor, or the local building
and inspection department.
Incorporating a Remote Control
If you are planning to use a stereo system
with a hand held IR remote control, consider the advantages of installing a Niles
IR Repeater system. You are able to control all of the functions of your system
from the room with the remote pair of
speakers. Niles makes a number of IR sensors which install in the wall, in the ceiling,
in cabinetry, on tabletops, or even behind
the grille of your Niles HDspeakers.
An IR sensor requires that a 2-conductor
shielded wire (West Penn D291 or equiva-
Wire size is expressed by its AWG (American Wire
Gauge) number. The lower the number, the larger
the wire, i.e. twelve AWG is physically larger than
lent) be home run from each sensor location to the main equipment location. This
wire is normally run beside the speaker
wire at the same time. Typically, the sensor is placed in a location that faces your
listening position. Most remote controls
will have an effective line of sight range of
18 to 30 feet with any Niles sensor placed
in a wall, ceiling, on a cabinet or tabletop.
However, when you place a Niles MS-1
MicroSensor behind the perforated aluminum grille of a speaker the effective
range is reduced to 9 to 15 feet.
Insulating the Wall Cavity
For best performance from your speakers fill
the wall cavity behind the speaker with
fiberglass insulation (e.g.R-1 9 unbatted insulation). Try to keep the same amount of
insulation for each speaker, particularly in
the same room, for consistent bass response.
TECH TIP
fourteen AWG.
Speaker Placement
Placement of the Front Left and Right
Speakers (HD•LRS)
In a home theater, the intelligibility of dialog and action reproduced by the front
speakers is paramount! The position of the
speakers plays a very important role in
how clear the sound is and how a stereo
image is created. Here are some guidelines to make the process of placement
quick and easy.
Make sure the sound will not be blocked
or reflected off of furniture or other objects.
You should have a direct line of sight with
the front of the speaker. To determine the
best position, measure the “listening” distance between the ideal listening position
(your favorite chair or couch) and the wall
in which you plan to install the speakers.
Try to place the speakers so that they are
equally distant from your listening spot and
at least one half of the listening distance
apart (this maintains a large pleasant stereo
“image”). In home theater applications
where there is a center channel you may
choose to space the left and right main
speakers farther apart for a “bigger than
life” sound with Dolby
and TV shows. However, for combined
music and movie usage stay within the
good placement zone
ple; if you are ten feet back from the wall,
the speakers should be between five and
ten feet apart (See Figure 2).
The front left and right speakers should be
placed on either side of the picture source at
a height that allows their tweeters to be not
more than 24 inches above or below the
tweeter in the center channel speaker (See
Figure 3). Be careful that you do not place
®
encoded movies
for music. For exam-
Speaker
Placement
Zone
Speaker Placement
10’
Speaker
Placement
Zone
10’5’
Figure 2
5
6
Speaker Placement
TV
HD•LRS
HD•LRS
HD•CTR
Not Greater
than 24"
HD•LRS HD•LRS
Perforated Screen
HD•CTR
the HD•LRS too close to a direct view TV
monitor as they may cause picture discoloration (HD•CTR may be substituted for
HD•LRS in such an installation). In general,
try to keep an HD•LRS at least 24 inches
away from the TV. With larger CRT screen
sizes, you should test for picture degradation before installing.
The Boundary Effect
Corners can affect the bass response of the
speaker powerfully! This is called the
boundary effect. You will emphasize particular bass frequencies and cancel out
other bass frequencies when you place
speakers close to the wall/ceiling boundary or a corner wall boundary. This can
make the speaker sound excessively
boomy and inaccurate to some listeners,
while to others it just seems like more bass
sound. A good rule of thumb is if you
always listen to your current pair of speakers with the bass turned up, you’ll enjoy
corner placement. If you keep your tone
controls at neutral, try to keep the speakers at least one or two feet from the
boundaries of the room. The HD•LRS features a front baffle-mounted adjustment
switch labeled “Bass Cut” which enables
you to compensate for the boundry effect
by reducing bass output by 3dB.
Figure 3
For an HD•CTR placed above a
TV, install the speaker with the
tweeter up. For an HD•CTR
placed below a TV, install the
speaker with the tweeter down.
Placement of the Center Channel
Speaker (HD•CTR)
The center channel speaker is the workhorse in a home theater system. It handles
all of the critical dialog and as such it is
vitally important in creating the illusion of
sounds emanating directly from the picture.
The HD•CTR is specially optimized for
this important job. Its dual Magnetically
Shielded woofers enable it to be placed
directly adjacent to a direct view television without affecting picture quality. In a
typical installation, the HD•CTR will be
placed horizontally, directly above the
television or projection screen. Try to
insure that the speaker is not placed too
high relative to the left and right speaker.
(See Figure 3).
For installations where a perforated projection screen will be used, optimum performance can be obtained by placing the
HD•CTR, either horizontally or vertically,
behind the screen at ear level. (See Figure
4). When placed at ear level, the HD•CTR’s
crossover configuration switch should be set
to “DSFG Defeat”. (See the section on
Defeating DSFG on page 1 8 for more details).
Figure 4
Placement of the Rear Channel
Speakers (HD•LRS)
In a home theater, the goal is to reproduce
the experience of a great movie theater in
our homes. The biggest difference between
your home and the theater is the surround
speaker array. In a commercial theater, it is
not uncommon to see twenty or thirty
speakers around the audience. This huge
array of speakers assures that you will feel
completely surrounded by the ambient
soundtrack of the movie. Film makers try to
use the “surround” soundtrack to envelope
you in the environment on screen. They
will place background music, rain sounds,
traffic noise, etc. on the “surround” sound-
Speaker Placement
track. In a home with a single pair of speakers it is easy for the jungle sounds to sound
like they are “in the middle of your head”
just like headphones!
A single pair of HD•LRS Loudspeakers,
properly placed, can create a very convincing simulation of an array of speakers.
If you place them near a hard reflecting
surface you can make one pair of speakers
sound like several. Create as many reflections as possible by mounting the speaker
up high in the wall so that the ceiling will
act as a powerful reflector. (See Figures
5 and 6). If you mount the speakers as far
away as you can from the listening area,
more reflections will occur. However, all
7
Figure 5
If the primary listening position is towards the back of the room as depicted in figure 5, place the rear
speakers high up on the side wall or in the ceiling as pictured.
8
Speaker Placement
TV
of these placement techniques require that
you work your surround sound amplifier
channels harder. If the surround sound system you are using has a small five or ten
watt amplifier for the rear speakers, stay
within five to eight feet of the listening location. If you are using a 25 to 50 watt amplifier you can mount the speakers 10 to 15 feet
away from the listening location and still
achieve reasonably high volume levels.
Of course, the best way to emulate the
sound of multiple speakers is to use multiple speakers. In large or unusually shaped
rooms this might be the only way to
achieve a good effect. (See Figure 7).
Figure 6
If the primary listening position is towards the center of the room as depicted in figure 6, place the
rear speakers high up on the rear wall or in the ceiling as pictured.
If you like to listen to music surround
modes which emulate concert hall
acoustics, more than two surround speakers
will prove extraordinarily effective. With
Niles HD•LRS loudspeakers it is easy to
add another pair without affecting the
decor of the room. However, you will need
to use a much more powerful amplifier
than that which is built into a typical surround sound receiver or amplifier. Niles
makes a number of Systems Integration
Amplifiers™ with proprietary features that
make them uniquely suited to enhance a
good surround sound system. Consult your
Niles dealer for more information.
Installation
Fundamentals
Running the Speaker Wire in New
Construction
If you have doubts about whether you are
capable of installing a Niles Blueprint
Series In-Wall Loudspeaker, consult a
Niles dealer or professional installer. They
have special tools, techniques, and experience to make the impossible possible. The
installer can provide you with an estimate
before any work is done.
Scheduling and Preparation
Plan to schedule the speaker wiring after
the electrical wiring is finished. That way
you can avoid wire routes which could
potentially induce hum over the speaker
wire. The basic rules are:
• Never run speaker wire through the
same hole as an electrical cable.
• Never run speaker wire into the same
J-box as electrical cable.
• Avoid running the speaker wire beside
the electrical cable. Keep it at least three
or four feet distant from any electrical
power cable.
Figure 8
Figure 7
If you use multiple rear speakers or have
an irregularly shaped listening area as
shown in figure 7, place the speakers high
up on the rear and side walls or in the
ceiling as pictured.
Side-by-side wiring is unavoidable in particular spots in every house, just move the
speaker wire route away as soon as possible. If construction forces a side by side
run for more than ten feet, install metal
conduit or shielded speaker wire. Lowvoltage wires such as doorbells, intercoms, telephone, security, or television
cannot cause interference or hum on your
speaker wires, so you can safely run all of
them at the same time, through the same
holes, side-by-side.
Before you drill any holes, mount the
speaker brackets in the desired speaker
locations and mount p-rings or open
backed J-boxes where the in-wall volume
controls and stereo equipment will be.
Safety First!
Wear gloves, safety goggles and head protection when drilling
bits and they can create injury. Pay particular care when using “hole-hogs” and other
powerful electric drills; the torque of the
drill when suddenly stopped by a nail can
break the wrist of a strong man.
Drilling
Use a bit that is large enough for the wires
you plan to run. An auger bit is the preferred bit for rough-in wiring. It will actually pull itself through the wood, so that
the drill motor, not you, does most of the
work. You will be drilling a lot of holes,
so this is important.
Always drill the holes in the center of the
stud. If you have to notch the stud or drill
the hole closer than one inch from the
edge of the stud, protect the wire with a
nail plate. (See Figure 8).
When drilling holes in ceiling joists drill
in the center of the joists and try to locate
the hole near the end of the joist. DO
NOT drill through a “gluelam” or any
load bearing beam without the direction
of your contractor.
. Avoid nails, they ruin
Installation Fundamentals
9
10
Installation Fundamentals
Try to line the holes up perfectly, because
it makes pulling the wire much easier. A
good technique is to snap a chalk line
across the face of the studs or against the
bottom of the ceiling joists. Then work
backward so that you can always see the
holes you have already drilled. Paying
careful attention to this will save you a lot
of time later on!
Pulling the Cable
Pull the cable in sections (from the stereo
to the volume control, from the volume
control to the speaker). Start with the
longest sections and use left-over wire to
complete the short sections. If you plan to
pull many rooms at the same time
through a central route, walk off the distance to each destination, add a generous
fudge factor for turns and other obstacles,
then cut off each section so that you have
a bundle of wires you can pull at once.
Whenever you run the wire further than
four and one half feet from a hole in a stud
or joist (open attic space, going up walls,
etc.), fasten the wire to the joists or studs
using cable clamps or appropriately sized
wire staples. The wire should not have
large sags in it, nor should it be too tight.
Try to protect the wire from being stepped
on in attics or other unfinished crawl
spaces. There are guard strips, raceways
and conduits which can be used to protect
the cable. Consult the local building code
for special requirements in your area.
Concealing Speaker Wire
in Existing Walls
This is actually a fairly simple task if you
restrict your choice of speaker locations
and wire routes to the interior walls or
ceilings of your home. Interior walls in
almost all North American residences are
hollow, so that it is easy to flush mount
speakers into them and route new speaker
cable around the house. What you see
when you look at the painted wall board,
plaster, or paneling is only the skin of the
wall. Behind the skin is the skeleton; twoby-four wood or metal “studs” running
vertically from the floor to the ceiling in
walls and two-by-six or larger “joists” running horizontally in the ceilings and
floors. In between the studs and the joists
is the space for the wiring and plumbing
of your home.
Exterior walls are different. They must
insulate the house from the heat and cold
outside, so they are stuffed with insulation.
The national building code requires that
the hollow wall space in exterior walls be
broken by a horizontal stud placed
between the vertical studs. This “fire
blocking” makes it very difficult to retrofit
long lengths of wire. In some areas of the
country the exterior walls are constructed
of solid masonry, and have no hollow
space for speakers or wires.
Start by examining all the possible routes
you might take to run the speaker wire
from the speaker to the stereo. Use a stud
sensor or other device to locate the internal structure of the wall. You want to
avoid all studs or joists. A typical route
would be: from the speaker location up
the inside of the wall to a new hole drilled
into the top “plate” (horizontal two-byfour at the top of the inside of the wall),
into the attic crawl space, and down
another plate to the wall behind the stereo
system itself (See Figure 9). The other
very common route is through the bottom
plate of the wall into an unfinished basement or crawl space.
Speaker
Location
Stereo
Figure 9
Identify where all of your electrical,
phone, and TV wiring is likely to be and
plan to route around it all. You can accidentally induce 60 Hz hum on your
speakers if you run your speaker wire right
beside electrical wire for more than a few
feet. Try to keep speaker wire running parallel to power cables at least 3 feet away.
To find exactly where an electrical cable is
routed, try inspecting the inside of the wall
by turning off the breaker for a particular
power outlet or switch, removing the
Unobstructed space
for speaker wiring
Location
Figure 10
cover plate and switch or
receptacle, and shining a
penlight into the wall. If you
have access to an attic or
basement space you can
quickly see which part of the
wall space the wire is free of
obstructions (See Figure 10).
When you don’t have access
above or below the wall, try
to estimate the existing wire
and pipe locations from the
positions of electrical outlets
and plumbed fixtures on both
sides of the wall. Take a look
at the outside of your house
too, sometimes conduit, vents
or drain pipe will be visible
that give useful information.
Choose the route with the
fewest potential obstacles.
If your house is built on a slab or you are
wiring between two finished floors, look
for baseboards which could be removed
and replaced with the wire behind them.
Doorjambs can be removed and often
have enough space for speaker wire all
the way around the door (See Figure 11).
Sometimes, an under-the-carpet run is
possible (there are special flat speaker
wires made for under-the-rug wire runs).
As a last resort, heating and air conditioning vents can be used as wire raceways for
Installation Fundamentals
11
12
Installation Fundamentals
plenum rated wire (check your local
building codes, some municipalities
require conduit).
In traditional wood stud/ drywall construction you can cut the hole for the speaker
and utilize the large hole to auger holes
across, up or down the wall for as far as
your drill bit will take you. If you have
matching paint and take reasonable care in
patching you can cut a hatch in the drywall at each stud, run your wire, and patch
and touch-up thewall (See Figure12).
When you are dealing with the unknown
because of the structure of your home, or
with difficult to patch wall materials like
plaster, lath and plaster, faux finishes,
wallpaper etc., be patient. A careful study
of the potential problems before you start
the job will pay off.
Figure 12
Figure 11
Installation of
Brackets, Frames
and Grilles in New
Construction
Stage One: Before Drywall is Hung
Insulating the Wall Cavity.
If feasible, fill the wall cavity with insulation at this point.
Attach the wings to the bracket by snapping them into the sides of the bracket.
The wings can be shortened by breaking
them along the scored lines if their length
will interfere with a corner or eaves. You
can mount the bracket horizontally or vertically (See Figure 1 3).
Screw one side of the assembled bracket
with wings to the stud using one of the
supplied screws. Level the bracket. Screw
the other side of the bracket to the stud.
Two screws on each side makes for a very
secure installation. Attach the wire to the
bracket at the indicated wire tie points
(See Figure 14).
Stage Two: Before Paint
Screw the frame to the installed bracket
using the supplied screws. Do not overtighten the screws. This will distort the
frame and the grilles will not fit (this is not
permanent, just loosen the screws and the
grille will pop in) (See Figure 15).
Painting the Aluminum Grilles
The grille is important to the sound of the
HD loudspeakers. Do not fill the holes of
the grille with paint.
Installation of Brackets, Frames and Grilles in New Construction
13
Figure 13
14
Installation of Brackets, Frames and Grilles in New Construction
Figure 14
Figure 15
The grille is constructed of aluminum with
a perfectly even powder coat overall. This
powder coat is an ideal primer.
Remove the grilles before painting. If you are
using spray paint, use two thin coats without
any primer. If you are using a compressor and
a spray gun, use the finest, most diffuse
setting. Practice first on some paper if you
have no experience painting with spray paint.
If you are using an applicator or brush, and
a can of paint, thin the paint first. You do
not want to have to poke hundreds of
holes in your beautifully painted grilles.
Installation of
Brackets, Frames
and Grilles in
Existing Walls
IMPORTANT: Before you cut into any
wall, review the sections on running
wire and speaker placement.
1. Drill a 1/8” pilot hole just barely
through the wallboard or dry wall (1/2” to
5/8” deep in most homes) about an inch
below the center of your proposed speaker location (an inch to the side if you are
mounting the speaker horizontally). BE
VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DRILL
THROUGH EXISTING WIRES, PIPES, OR
STRUCTURE. IF YOU FEEL ANY EXTRA
RESISTANCE AS YOU ARE DRILLING,
STOP. Cut a piece of coat hanger equal to
the width of the bracket. Bend the wire in
half creating a right angle. Poke the “Lshaped” wire into the pilot hole and turn it
Figure 17
Figure 16
Installation of Brackets, Frames and Grilles in Existing Walls
in a complete circle. If it turns freely,
repeat the procedure from a hole about an
inch above the center of your proposed
speaker location (See Figure 16).
If the wires movement is obstructed by a
pipe or cable, fill the hole(s) with spackle
or other patching compound and try
another location.
2. When determining the final location of
the cutout keep in mind that the frame
and bracket will extend beyond the
cutout. Make sure that you do not place
the edge of the cutout directly next to a
stud. Locate the studs using a stud sensor
or hand-knocking. Once you have determined the correct position for the cutout,
hold the supplied template up to the wall
surface. Level the template in either the
horizontal or the vertical position and
mark the wall with a pencil.
Drill the four corners with a
1/4” drill bit.
3. If you are cutting a painted
or wall papered drywall use
a sheetrock or keyhole saw.
Cut the hole with the saw at
a 45 degree angle. That way,
15
16
Installation of Brackets, Frames and Grilles in Existing Walls
the drywall section can be replaced cleanly if there is an unseen obstruction behind
the wall. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO
SAW THROUGH EXISTING WIRES, PIPES,
OR STRUCTURE. IF YOU FEEL ANY
EXTRA RESISTANCE AS YOU ARE CUTTING, STOP.
4. If you are cutting into lath and plaster
walls, use masking tape to outline your
penciled marks, drill the four corners with
a 1/4” bit and use a razor to score the
plaster down to the lath beneath. Then use
a chisel to remove all of the plaster within
the taped outline. Finally, insert a metal
cutting blade into a sabre saw and very
slowly and carefully saw the lath. Sawing
the lath can easily vibrate plaster off the
wall. If you have the patience, use a pair
of tin snips to slowly nip away at the lath
instead. There is no risk with this method,
it is just time consuming.
5. Fill the wall cavity with insulation at
this point. Remember to use equal
amounts of insulation for each speaker.
6. Slip the mounting bracket through the
hole and pull it toward you so that its front
edge slides into the hole and stops in place.
7. Attach the frame to the bracket by
screwing the frame to the bracket using
the supplied screws. Do not overtighten
the screws, this will distort the frame and
the grilles will not fit (this is not permanent, just loosen the screws and the grille
will pop in). The screws should pull the
frame and bracket together (sandwiching
the drywall) so that the frame is absolutely
flush with the wall surface. There should
be no gaps between the wall and the
frame (See Figure 17).
Installation of the
Speaker and Grille
in New or Existing
Construction
Speaker Orientation for Directed
Sound Field Geometry
The Directed Sound Field Geometry
(DSFG) provides optimum off axis phase
and frequency response due to the
acoustic interaction between the woofers
and the tweeter. The flattest response will
be obtained approximately 15 degrees off
axis in the direction opposite the tweeter.
Therefore, the orientation of the speaker is
important for optimum performance. For
an HD•CTR placed above a TV, install
the speaker with the tweeter up. For an
HD•CTR placed below a TV, install the
speaker with the tweeter down. For
HD•LRS’s placed in the front, install the
speakers with the tweeters facing out.
Setting the Acoustic Fine Tuning and
Configuring the Crossover
Both the HD•CTR and HD•LRS models
feature front-mounted Acoustic Fine
Tuning controls and crossover mounted
configuration switches.
HD•CTR
Acoustic Fine Tuning
The front-mounted switches on the
HD•CTR enable the speaker to be optimized regardless of positioning or room
acoustics by providing 3dB of Treble Cut
and 3dB of Dialog Enhancement. Start by
listening to the speaker in the normal
mode (switch is in the “out” position). If
the sound seems to have too much treble,
depress the switch labeled Treble Cut to
reduce the amount of high frequencies.
If you desire to make the dialog in a movie
more pronounced, depress the switch
labeled Dialog Enhance.
Defeating DSFG
The crossover on the back of the HD•CTR
enables you to defeat the Directed Sound
Field Geometry (DSFG) feature. This is
useful when the speaker is mounted at
ear level directly in front of the
primary listening position as
would be the case when the
speaker is mounted behind
a perforated projection
TV screen.
HD•LRS
Acoustic Fine Tuning
The front-mounted switches on
the HD•CTR also enable the speaker to be optimized regardless of positioning
or room acoustics. They provide 3dB of
Treble and Bass Cut respectively. Start by
listening to the speaker in the normal
mode (switch is in the out position). If the
sound seems to have too much treble,
depress the switch labeled Treble Cut to
reduce the amount of high frequencies. If
the sound has too much low frequency
output (because it is placed near a corner
perhaps) depress the switch labeled Bass
Cut to reduce the bass by 3dB.
Main/Surround Configuration
The crossover on the back of the HD•LRS
enables you to configure the speaker for
best performance as either a front “main”
speaker or rear “surround” speaker. When
the HD•LRS is used as a surround speaker,
set the switch to the “Surround” position to
provide a diffuse sound field which provides a more convincing illusion of sound
all around the listener. When configured as
a surround speaker, the orientation of the
tweeter is no longer critical.
Figure 18
Installing a Niles MS-1 MicroSensor™
There is a 1/2" round molded "IR Sensor
Knockout" on the face of the speaker baffle. To prevent damage to the crossover
network you must remove the knockout
from the rear of the speaker. Do not
attempt to remove the knockout with the
speaker face up. Lay the speaker face
down on a clean carpet or rug. Put the
tip of a screwdriver into the cen-
ter of the round "knockout"
and sharply tap the screw-
driver handle as necessary.
Install the MS-1 using its
mounting hex nut and
washer so that it is tightly
secured to the speaker.
Connect all wires and con-
tinue your installation.
Installing the Speaker
If the grille is already installed, remove it
by using a bent paper clip or the tip of a
corkscrew and pulling it away from the
frame (See Figure 18).
1. Separate the speaker wire so that at least
two inches of each conductor are free.
2. Strip one half inch of insulation from the
end of each conductor of the speaker wire.
3. If you have gold pin connectors which
you wish to use, affix them to the stripped
wire ends now.
4. Connect one stripped wire end (or connector) to the black and one to the red terminal. Pay attention to the markings on the
wire. Each speaker must be connected to
the amplifier in the same way.
5. Place the speaker baffle in the frame and
secure it with the supplied #8x1/2” screws.
If you find that the baffle does not smoothly
fit the frame, slightly loosen the mounting
screws that hold the frame to the bracket.
6. Carefully fit the grille into its recess so
that it is barely in place. Starting with one
Installation of the Speaker and Grille for New or Existing Construction
17
18
Installation of the Speaker and Grille for New or Existing Construction
corner, go around the speaker, pushing the
grille in a little bit each time. You should
be gentle, the aluminum grille can be easily bent out of shape. The speaker will have
an absolutely flush appearance when it is
fully in place.
Speaker Phase
Speaker wire has two conductors. One
conductor is attached to the negative (-)
terminals and one conductor is attached to
the positive (+) terminals of both your
speaker and your amplifier. Usually, the
wire is marked for your convenience.
There are different ways wires are marked:
a stripe on one wire, a ribbed area of one
conductor you can only feel, different colors of metal wire on each conductor, or
there might be a fabric strand or string
wound into one of the conductors. Of
course, there are some wires which appear
completely identical. Be careful, or you
might make a mistake.
If you make a mistake, one speaker will be
playing “out-of-phase” with the other
speaker. An out-of-phase pair of speakers
work against each other and the sound of
the two speakers playing together will be
lacking in bass and be “phasey” sounding.
If you suspect the sound is not right and
you cannot see any markings on the wire,
try this simple test:
1. Stand half way between the two speakers.
2. Play some music with the amplifier or
radio set to Mono.
3. Listen to the richness of the bass and the
loudness of the sound.
4. Turn off the amplifier and reverse the
connections on one amplifier channel only.
5. Repeat the listening test with the same
setting of the volume control. When the
sound has a richer bass and is slightly
louder the speakers are working together
or “in-phase”.
Operation
Listening at Higher Volumes
It requires more power to achieve a reasonable volume of sound in a large room
than it does in a small room. It is possible (even if you are not a teenager) to
turn the volume so high that the amplifier
runs out of power
ping” distortion.
Clipping distortion makes treble sound
very harsh and unmusical. When you hear
harsh sounding treble from any good
speaker, turn the volume down immediately! Those harsh sounds are masking
some much more powerful ultra-high-frequency sound spikes which will quickly
damage any fine loudspeaker. You are
much less likely to damage a speaker with
a large amplifier because it will be very
loud indeed before it produces any clipping distortion.
Cleaning
You can clean the speaker with a dampened soft cloth or paper towel. If the
speaker is mounted high up on a wall or
ceiling, use a broom to gently brush it off.
. This creates “clip-
Operation
19
20
Specifications
Specifications
Model HD•CTR
Model HD•LRS
Limited Warranty
Limited Warranty
Niles Audio Corporation ("NILES") warrants its loudspeaker products to the original purchaser
to be free of manufacturing defects in material and workmanship for a period of two years
from date of purchase.
Driver Compliment
(2) 5-1/4” Magnetically Shielded Mica Filled
Polypropylene Woofers
1” ElastoDynamic
with Fluid cooling
Design Principle
Infinite baffle for large and varying air
volumes. Directed Sound Field Geometry
for optimum phase and frequency response
Recommended Amplifier Power
Ten to One Hundred Fifty Watts per
Channel
Nominal Impedance
8 Ohms
Frequency Response
45 Hz to 21,000 Hz, plus or minus 3 dB
(on axis)
Sensitivity
90 decibels for 2.83 volts of Pink Noise,
measured at 1 meter on axis
Overall Exterior Frame Dimensions
8-1/4” x 14-1/2”
Depth Behind Wall
3-1/8” (Assumes 1/2” drywall)
Wall Cut-Out Dimensions
7-1/8” x 13-1/4”
Wiring Requirements
We recommend 16 to 18 gauge for up to
80 feet, 14 gauge for up to two hundred
feet. Connectors accommodate 12 to 22
gauge wire.
™
Hybrid Dome Tweeter
Driver Compliment
(2) 5-1/4” Mica Filled Polypropylene
Woofers
1” ElastoDynamic
with Fluid cooling
Design Principle
Infinite baffle for large and varying air
™
volumes. Directed Sound Field Geometry
for optimum phase and frequency response
Recommended Amplifier Power
Ten to One Hundred Fifty Watts per
Channel
Nominal Impedance
8 Ohms
Frequency Response
45 Hz to 21,000 Hz, plus or minus 3 dB
(on axis)
Sensitivity
90 decibels for 2.83 volts of Pink Noise,
measured at 1 meter on axis
Overall Exterior Frame Dimensions
8-1/4” x 14-1/2”
Depth Behind Wall
2-5/8” (Assumes 1/2” drywall)
Wall Cut-Out Dimensions
7-1/8” x 13-1/4”
Wiring Requirements
We recommend 16 to 18 gauge for up to
80 feet, 14 gauge for up to two hundred
feet. Connectors accommodate 12 to 22
gauge wire.
™
Hybrid Dome Tweeter
This Warranty is subject to the following additional conditions and limitations. The Warranty
is void and inapplicable if NILES deems that the product has been used or handled other than
in accordance with the instructions provided by the manufacturer, including but not limited to
damage caused by accident, mishandling, improper installation, abuse, negligence, or normal
wear and tear, or any defect caused by repair to the product by anyone other than NILES or an
authorized NILES dealer.
To obtain warranty service, take the unit to the nearest authorized NILES dealer, who will test
™
the product and if necessary, forward it to NILES for service. If there are no authorized NILES
dealers in your area, you must write to NILES and include your name, address, model and
serial number of your unit, along with a brief description of the problem. A factory Return
Authorization Number will be sent to you. DO NOT RETURN ANY UNIT WITHOUT FIRST
RECEIVING WRITTEN AUTHORIZATION AND SHIPPING INSTRUCTIONS FROM NILES.
If the above conditions are met, the purchaser's sole remedy shall be to return the product to
NILES, in which case NILES will repair or replace, at its sole option, the defective product
without charge for parts or labor. NILES will return a unit repaired or replaced under warranty
by shipping same by its usual shipping method from the factory (only) at its expense within the
United States of America. THERE ARE NO OTHER WARRANTIES, INCLUDING WITHOUT
LIMITATION, EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, WITH RESPECT TO THE PRODUCT.
REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT AS PROVIDED UNDER THIS WARRANTY IS THE EXCLUSIVE
REMEDY OF THE CONSUMER/PURCHASER. NILES SHALL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR
ANY INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES EXCEPT TO THE EXTENT PROVIDED
(OR PROHIBITED) BY APPLICABLE LAW.
Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages,
so the above limitation may not apply to you. This warranty gives you specific legal rights,
and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state.
For the name of your nearest authorized NILES dealer contact:
NILES AUDIO CORPORATION
P.O. BOX 160818, Miami, Florida 33116-0818.
Please fill in your product information and retain for your records.
Model___________________________________________________________________ _________________
21
Serial No._________________________________________________________________________________
Purchase Date_____________________________________________________________________________
22
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