INSTALLATION & OPERATION GUIDE
INSTALLATION & OPERATION GUIDE
CM8SW
SUBWOOFER
B LENDING H IGH F IDELITY
AND A RCHITECTURE
®
®
Congratulations!
Thank you for choosing a Niles ceiling mount loudspeaker. With proper installation and
operation, you'll enjoy years of trouble-free use.
The CM8SW is a ceiling mount subwoofer uniquely designed to provide unobtrusive
low frequency augmentation. The selectable high and low-pass filters make it suitable for
use with a wide variety of satellite speakers.
Niles manufactures the industry's most complete line of custom installation components
and accessories for audio/video systems. For a free full line catalog write: Niles, Catalog
Request, P.O. Box 160818, Miami, Florida 33116-0818
TABLE OF CONTENTS
FEATURES AND BENEFITS 2
HOW MANY SUBWOOFERS? 4
CONNECTIONS 5
IMPEDANCE 7
TREATMENT & PLACEMENT 9
INSTALLATION FUNDAMENTALS 10
INSTALLATION IN NEW CONSTRUCTION 14
INSTALLATION IN EXISTING CONSTRUCTION 15
FINAL INSTALLATION IN NEW OR EXISTING CONSTRUCTION 16
OPERATION 18
SPECIFICATIONS 19
WARRANTY REGISTRATION CARD 21
LIMITED WARRANTY 22
Features and Benefits
Features and Benefits
TCC Speaker Cone
The Niles CM8SW is a high-performance
passive subwoofer that compliments the
entire Niles ceiling mount loudspeaker
line. It’s dual voice-coil injection molded
TCC (talc, carbon and ceramic) woofer
provides outstanding bass response
The illustration below shows how
a typical Niles CM loudspeaker
mounts into a ceiling.
Knockout wire tie allows
the wire to be secured to
the bracket throughout the
new construction process.
It knocks out cleanly when
the speaker is installed.
New construction
wings instantly snap
into the bracket
without screws.
New Construction Bracket serves as
a “hole saver” when drywall has not
been applied. It is not necessary when
retrofitting to existing ceilings.
High-Power Handling
The CM8SW employs an exceptionally
heavy-duty magnet/voice-coil/spider
assembly that is capable of handling high
power amplifiers (up to 150 watts).
Figure 1
Model CM8SW Shown
Dogs swivel 9
clamp the speaker
frame to the drywall.
Frames are molded with
a slight texture to assure
good paint adhesion.
0°, then
Wings are scored for
easy size trimming.
Brackets and wings
attach to the ceiling joists
with nails or screws.
Figure 2 Figure 3
SAT
FULL
The CM8SW ceiling mount subwoofer includes an
easy access, baffle mounted high pass filter to
prevent over-excursion of the satellite’s woofers.
CUT
The CM8SW ceiling mount subwoofer includes
an easy access, baffle mounted low pass frequency selection switch.
Mounting screws tighten
the “Dogs”, clamping the
speaker to the drywall
Rust-proof aluminum Grilles make the
CM8SW series perfect for moist
environments.
SUB
00Hz
1
140Hz
2
Features and Benefits
Infinite Baffle Design
The CM8SW is designed for optimum low
frequency reproduction in traditional ceiling environments and varying air volumes.
It does not require a special enclosure to
provide high performance.
Selectable High-Pass Filter
Installers can also select whether or not to
filter the low frequencies from the satellite
speakers at a fixed frequency of 120Hz.
Like the low-pass filter, this selection is
accessed via baffle mounted controls
(See Figure 2).
Adjustable Low Pass Filter
Installers can select passive crossover for
both woofer and satellite speakers via
baffle-mounted controls that are
accessible even after the subwoofer has
been installed (See Figure 3).
Weather-Resistant Construction
All components of the CM8SW are weather resistant. The aluminum grille and stainless steel mounting screws are rustproof.
This makes the subwoofer ideal for moist
environments which would cause some
brands of speakers to discolor. Protected
outdoor installations are perfectly suited
for the CM8SW.
MicroPerf™Grilles
The CM8SW employs Niles’ exclusive
MicroPerf grille construction. The exceptionally tight hole pattern provides
acoustic transparency at all audio frequencies and enables the woofer element to
remain invisible. MicroPerf grilles can be
painted to blend seamlessly with the
surrounding decor.
No-Strip Speaker Wire Terminals
Dual Niles patented gold-plated no-strip
speaker wire terminal connectors accom-
8 gauge wire.
modates 12-
1
Easy Installation
The CM8SW employs a bracketless
mounting system for existing ceilings.
Simply cut a hole in the mounting surface,
remove the grille from the subwoofer,
connect the wires and place the speaker
in the hole. Then tighten the four mounting “dogs” via the front panel screws. The
dogs first swivel 90°, then clamp the frame
to the drywall as the screws are tightened.
Hole Saving Bracket
Available as an optional accessory, the
CM8 New Construction Bracket can be
installed as a “hole-saver” before the drywall goes up. The drywall contractor cuts
the hole as the drywall is installed, reducing installation time and minimizing the
chances for lost wires.
3
How Many Subwoofers?
For most applications a single CM8SW is
appropriate. However, in large rooms, high
performance listening rooms or in home
theaters, an array of two or more CM8SW
will deliver astounding results. Unlike
other subwoofer systems, a Niles
Subwoofer Array is concealed. Consider
the distance between the subwoofer(s) and
the listener, the size of the amplifier and
the desired quality and volume of sound
when deciding how many CM8SWs to
install in your home.
Decibels and Power
65dB Conversation at three feet.
75dB Sewing Machine at three feet.
85dB Vacuum Cleaner at 10 feet.
95dB Subway Train entering a station
3dB The smallest difference of sound
10dB Perceived as twice as much loud-
Any speaker requires twice as much
amplifier power to increase 3dB and ten
times as much power to increase 10dB.
Comparison of 1, 2 or 4 Subwoofers
1 Sub 95dB 101dB
2 Subs 100dB 106dB
VLSA of 4 Subs 103dB 109dB
2 x Watts = 3dB Increase in Volume.
2 x Subs = 3dB Increase in Volume.
2 x Subs = 1/2 the subwoofer excursion for
If you double the distance from the subwoofer to the primary listening position
you decrease the volume by 4 to 6dB.
at 20 feet.
the human ear can easily detect.
ness if it is an increase (half as
much if it is a decrease).
16’ x 18’ x 8’ Room @ 12’
25 Watts 100
the same volume.
Watts
How Many Subwoofers?
Single Stereo Subwoofer
One CM8SW can produce the bass sound
from both the left and the right channels
because of its unique dual voice coil
design. One voice coil powers the left channel and the other powers the right channel.
A stereo crossover divides the signal and filters it according to the position of the
switches on the front panel. A single stereo
subwoofer is compatible with any 4 ohm
stable amplifier. Eight ohm stable amplifiers
may be used with a Niles IM volume control (see Impedance section on Page 7)
Dual Subwoofer Systems
Using two CM8SW subwoofers in a system
raises the maximum attainable volume of
the system by 3dB. Additionally, at lower
volumes, excursion — and therefore distortion levels — are reduced. In a large room,
or a home theater system, the effect on
bass quality is extremely desirable.
Another 2dB increase is possible if the
voice coils of each are CM8SW paralleled.
This requires a multi-channel amplifier or
an amplifier capable of driving the 2 to 2.6
ohm load of the overall system.
VLSA Installations
A Very Large Subwoofer Array (VLSA)
installation lowers the amount of excursion
required to achieve a high sound pressure
level. Lowering excursion dramatically
improves the quality of the sound. VLSA
installations are most appropriate when the
listener appreciates detail and bass extension, but must have a concealed installation. A VLSA of four subwoofers must have
a multichannel amplifier with one channel
assigned to each subwoofer.
4
Connections
Left Right
CM8SW CM8SW
Wire to
Corresponding
Output
E
ither Input okay
Satellite Speaker
Amplier
Satellite Speaker
Left Right
CM8SW
Amplier
Left and Right
No-Strip wire input terminals
Left and Right
No-Strip wire output terminals
Satellite SpeakerSatellite Speaker
Connections
Dual Subwoofer Systems
A four conductor (Left+, Left-, Right+ and
Right-) wire 16 gauge or larger (see side-
Single Stereo Subwoofer
A four conductor (Left+, Left-, Right+ and
Right-) wire 16 gauge or larger (see side-
bar on speaker wire gauge) is run from
the amplifier location to the local volume
(See Figure 5).
control
bar on speaker wire gauge) is run from the
amplifier location to the local volume
control (See Figure 4).
Figure 4
A Single CM8SW Hook-Up
From the local volume control the four
conductor cable is run to the CM8SW and
connected to the Input connectors. A two
conductor wire is connected to each of the
stereo outputs and fed to the left and right
speakers. Now, the volume control will
raise and lower the volume for the subwoofer and the left and right speakers
simultaneously. Additionally, the crossover
is now connected so that the crossover
5
switches can be adjusted.
Figure 5
A Dual CM8SW Hook-Up
From the local volume control a two conductor cable is run to each of the CM8SWs
and connected to either the left or the right
Input connectors.
Each of the satellite speakers must be connected to the correct subwoofer. Typically,
a two conductor wire is connected to one
of the outputs on the left channel subwoofer and fed to the left satellite speaker
and another two conductor wire connects
the right channel subwoofer and satellite.
Now, the volume control will raise and
lower the volume for the subwoofer and
the left and right speakers simultaneously.
WR+
W
R–
L–IN R–IN
CM8SW
L
L
C
C
H
H
Additionally, the crossovers are now connected so that the crossover switches can
be adjusted to your requirements. You must
adjust the crossovers on each speaker with
this hook-up.
Optionally, a jumper of wire may be
connected between the L+ and the R+;
and between the L- and the R-. This connects both voice coils of the CM8SW,
giving you a 2dB increase in output.
Since each subwoofer’s impedance
drops from 8
amplifier is 2
the satellite speaker’s impedance.
Figure 6)
Ω to 4Ω, make sure your
Ω stable to accommodate
(See
.
crossover) by a separate amplifier channel.
Connections are straight-forward; two
conductor wires connect each amplifier
channel to each individual subwoofer.
(See Figure 7).
Figure 7
Connections to a VLSA are normally made from
each CM8SW to a multi-channel amplifier like
the Niles SI-1230 twelve channel amplifier.
Each CM8SW has a jumper installed to
parallel the voice coils for maximum effi-
(See Figure 6).
ciency.
The crossover controls on each subwoofer
affect only the subwoofer response. Level
controls on the amplifiers facilitate blending and compensation for placement.
Connections
Figure 6
Connecting the two voice coils in parallel with a
jumper (a piece of speaker wire).
Very Large Subwoofer Array
(VLSA)
Using four or more CM8SW subwoofers
in a system creates a system of unprecedented clarity, with stunning bass impact
and potentially extraordinary maximum
volume capability. Because of the
extremely low impedance of a parallel
VLSA system, multiple channel amplifiers
are normally used to power them.
Because of this, in-wall volume controls
are incompatible with VLSA systems.
In a system of this type, it is recommended
that the satellite speakers be driven full
range (or with an external electronic
Speaker Wire
For most applications, we recommend you
use 16 or 18 gauge wire. For wiring runs
longer than 80 feet we recommend 14
gauge wire. The No-Strip speaker wire terminals can accommodate 12-20 gauge
wire. When you run wire inside walls, spe
cial jacketing (CL-2 or CL-3) is required to
both protect the wire and for fire prevention. In some areas conduit is required. For
a trouble-free installation, low voltage wire
such as speaker wire must be run in accordance with the National Electrical Code
and any applicable provisions of the local
building code. Consult your local Niles
dealer or your building contractor if you are
unsure of code requirements in your area.
-
6
Impedance
Impedance
With One or Two Subwoofers
When one or two CM8SW subwoofers are
connected to the satellite speakers, the
overall system impedance to the amplifier
lowers.
System Impedance in Ohms (Ω)
One or Two Subwoofers
8
Ω Sats 4Ω Sats
1 Sub 4
2 Subs @8Ω each 4Ω 2.6Ω
2 Subs @4Ω each 2.6Ω 2Ω
If the impedance is too low for your amplifier utilize a Niles speaker selector or IM
volume control to match the impedance.
VLSA (Four or More Subwoofers)
A VLSA (Very Large Subwoofer Array)
installation lowers the amount of excursion required to achieve a high sound
pressure level. Lowering excursion dramatically improves the quality of the
sound. VLSA installations are most appropriate when the listener appreciates detail
and bass extension, but must have a con
cealed installation.
Each subwoofer should have its voice coils
connected in parallel for full output, therefore the impedance of each is four ohms.
Because of this low impedance, a multichannel amplifier stable to 4 ohms is the
best way to drive more than two subwoofers. Each CM8SW is connected to its
own channel of a multi-channel amplifier.
Ω 2.6Ω
specification may also be noted on the rear
panel of the amplifier. If your amplifier is
not able to drive a four ohm load it may
only be used to power a CM8SW
satellite/subwoofer system when an impedance magnifying volume control is incorporated into the system
An amplifier stable to four ohms may be
connected without impedance matching
devices. Parallel connections via the “A”
speaker terminals to one or two CM8SW
subwoofers (If the voice coils are not in parallel) and one pair of eight ohm satellite
speakers results in a four ohm load.
The “B” speaker terminals cannot be used
to power a second pair of speakers any-
The low impedance drive capability
more.
of your amplifier is already utilized by the
satellite/subwoofer combination. If you are
connecting other speakers in other rooms
you must install either a speaker selector or
impedance magnifying volume controls.
A few professional/audiophile amplifiers
advertise the capability of driving two
ohm speaker loads. These amplifiers may
be used without impedance matching
devices if the rating is quoted as “RMS” or
“Continuous” power and the amp does
not push too much power.
-
Check Your Amplifier’s Specs
Every amplifier has a minimum impedance
specifications. Check your owner’s manual
to determine whether or not your amplifier
is capable of driving a four ohm load. This
7
Using Speaker Selectors With
Standard Volume Controls
In multi-room systems with standard volume controls any
will maintain a four ohm load if you leave
one set of room outputs unused for every
speaker system with an impedance of less
than four ohms (such as a CM8SW connected to a pair of four ohm satellite
speakers). The protection switch must be
constantly engaged. Niles HDL series
speaker selectors have a rear panel constant protection feature.
The benefit of a speaker selector is that
even with the protection circuit constantly engaged, more power will be delivered
to any single pair of speakers playing by
itself (all other speakers off).
In a multi-room system there is one indispensible control for true convenience—a
local volume control. It allows you to
adjust the volume of the speakers and the
subwoofer without leaving the room.
Niles makes a wide range of high performance indoor and outdoor volume controls
in Standard or Decora
(just like your light switches and dimmers).
All of these volume controls enable full
power to be delivered to each speaker system when turned all the way up.
The combination of a speaker selector and
a standard volume control will deliver
high volume when only one pair of speakers is playing.
Niles speaker selector
(See Figure 8).
®
style face plates
Using Impedance Magnifying
Volume Controls
The simplest way to increase the impedance of a satellite/subwoofer system is to
install a Niles VCS-2D-IM or VCS-2S-IM
impedance magnifying volume control
instead of a standard volume control. This
control has a behind the wall jumper
which is set at the time of installation to
“magnify” the speaker system impedance.
(See Figure 9).
ß
For example: In the two times position, an
IM volume control will enable an eight
ohm stable amplifier to play a 4 ohm
speaker system without overheating. The
available power will decrease, which you
will perceive as a 3dB drop in maximum
undistorted volume.
If the jumper is set to the 4x position, a
6dB drop in volume will be perceived.
If the jumper is set to the 8x position, a
9dB drop in volume will be perceived.
A 10dB drop is perceived as half as loud,
so there are limits to the amount of magnification you can use unless the amplifier is
very powerful (3dB increase every time
you double the power) or you never listen
at high volumes. Consult the Decibels and
Power chart on page 4.
Impedance
8
Treatment & Placement
Treatment & Placement
Typically, sheetrock encloses the subwoofer in most installations. Sheetrock has
a fairly loud resonant “twang” compared
to the rigid non-resonant enclosures of
most floor standing subwoofers. None of
the following modifications are absolutely
necessary, however any one or combination of them will improve the performance
of the subwoofer.
Minimum Enclosure Size
The CM8SW will produce magnificent
results if the ceiling air cavity above the
woofer is a minimum of 1900 cubic inches. If the ceiling joists center measure
5-1/2” deep (2x6) and are spaced 14-1/4”
apart (16” spacing) you would want the
length of the air cavity to be a minimum of
24-1/4”. A larger cavity is fine.
Insulation
Lay a batten of fiberglass insulation (e.g.
R-19 un-batted insulation) on top of the
speaker. If you have more than one subwoofer in the room, place the same amount
of insulation above each subwoofer. If your
enclosure is smaller than the recommended
1900 cubic inches, try packing more insulation into the space above the speaker. This
effectively increases the enclosure size.
ous brands available, e.g. Dynamat™).
Apply the damping material to the bottom
of the floor above the CM8SW and to the
top of the surrounding sheetrock ceiling
beside the subwoofer.
Speaker Placement Techniques
Although the CM8SW has extensive ability
to compensate for unusual placements with
its crossover switches; placement is still the
primary tool for satisfying your particular
listening needs.
Maximizing Output
Corner Placement – Placing your subwoofer
near a corner will increase the volume of
bass sound produced by the subwoofer!
This is called the boundary effect. Generally,
you can expect a 3dB increase in sound
pressure level with corner placement.
Proximity – Place the subwoofer as close
as possible to the primary listening position. Sound dissipates indoors at approximately 4dB to 6dB each time you double
the distance from the subwoofer to the listener. Therefore you can expect a 4dB to
6dB increase in output every time you
halve the distance from the subwoofer to
the listener.
Improving the Stereo Image
Near Satellite
Place the subwoofer(s) as close as possible
to the satellite speakers.
Enclosure Bracing
Insert small pieces of 1x2 or 1x1 scrap
wood as wedges between the ceiling
sheetrock and the floor above if possible.
Do not use too long of a piece as you
could create a bulge in the ceiling surface.
Enclosure Lining
Purchase some subwoofer damping material from a car stereo store (there are vari-
9
Installation Fundamentals
Introduction
If you have doubts about whether you are
capable of installing a ceiling mount speaker, consult a Niles dealer or professional
installer. They have special tools, techniques, and experience to make the impossible possible. The installer can provide you
with an estimate before any work is done.
Running the Speaker Wire in
New Construction
Plan to schedule the speaker wiring after
the electrical wiring is finished. That way
you can avoid wire routes which could
potentially induce hum over the speaker
wire. The basic rules are:
• Never run speaker wire through the
same hole as an electrical cable.
• Never run speaker wire into the same
J-box as electrical cable.
• Avoid running the speaker wire beside
the electrical cable. Keep it at least three
or four feet away from any electrical
power cable.
Side-by-side wiring is unavoidable in particular spots in every house, just move the
speaker wire route away as soon as possible.
If construction forces a side by side run for
more than ten feet, install metal conduit or
shielded speaker wire. Low-voltage wires
such as doorbells, intercoms, telephone,
security, or television cannot cause interference or hum on your speaker wires, so
you can safely run all of them at the same
time, through the same holes, side-by-side.
Before you drill any holes, mount open
backed J-boxes where the volume controls
and stereo equipment will be. If you are
using the optional hole saving brackets
(CM8 Series New Construction Bracket
kit-FG00656) attach the wings and install
(See figure 15 and 16).
them
Safety First!
Wear gloves, safety goggles and head protection when drilling
ruin bits and they can create injury.
Drilling
Use a bit that is large enough for the wires
you plan to run. An auger bit is the preferred bit for rough-in wiring. It will actually pull itself through the wood, so that the
drill motor, not you, does most of the
work. You will be drilling a lot of holes, so
this is important.
Always drill the holes in the center of the
stud. If you have to notch the stud or drill
the hole closer than one inch from the edge
of the stud, protect the wire with a nail
(See Figure 10).
plate
. Avoid nails, they
Installation Fundamentals
Figure 10
When drilling holes in ceiling joists drill in
the center of the joists and try to locate the
hole near the end of the joist.
drill through a “gluelam” or any load bearing beam without the direction of your
contractor.
Try to line the holes up perfectly, because it
makes pulling the wire much easier.
A good technique is to snap a chalk line
across the face of the studs or against the
DO NOT
10
Installation Fundamentals
bottom of the ceiling joists. Then work
backward so that you can always see the
holes you have already drilled. Paying careful attention to this will save you a lot of
time later on!
Pulling the Cable
Pull the cable in sections (from the stereo to
the volume control, from the volume control to the speaker). Start with the longest
sections and use left over wire to complete
the short sections. If you plan to pull many
rooms at the same time through a central
route, walk off the distance to each destination, add a generous fudge factor for turns
and other obstacles, then cut off each section so that you have a bundle of wires you
can pull at once.
Whenever you run the wire further than
four and one half feet from a hole in a stud
or joist (open attic space, going up walls,
etc.), fasten the wire to the joists or studs
using cable clamps or appropriately sized
wire staples. The wire should not have
large sags in it, nor should it be too tight.
Try to protect the wire from being stepped
on in attics or other unfinished crawl
spaces. There are guard strips, raceways
and conduits which can be used to protect
the cable. Consult the local building code
for special requirements in your area.
Concealing Speaker Wire in
Existing Walls
This is actually a fairly simple task if you
restrict your choice of speaker locations
and wire routes to the ceilings or interior
walls of your home. Interior walls in almost
all North American residences are hollow,
so it is easy to flush mount speakers into
them and route new speaker cable around
the house. What you see when you look at
the painted wall board, plaster, or paneling
is only the skin of the wall. Behind the skin
is the skeleton; two-by-four wood or metal
“studs” running vertically from the floor to
the ceiling in walls and two-by-six or larger
“joists” running horizontally in the ceilings
and floors. In between the studs and the
joists is the space for the wiring and plumbing of your home.
Exterior walls are different. They must insulate the house from the heat and cold outside, so they are stuffed with insulation. The
national building code requires that the hollow wall space in exterior walls be broken
by a horizontal stud placed between the
vertical studs. This “fire blocking” makes it
very difficult to retrofit long lengths of wire.
In some areas of the country the exterior
walls are constructed of solid masonry, and
have no hollow space for speaker wires.
Start by examining all the possible routes
you might take to run the speaker wire
from the speaker to the volume control
and back to the stereo. Use a stud sensor
or other device to locate the internal structure of the ceiling/wall. You want to avoid
as many studs or joists as possible. A typical speaker wire route would be: from the
speaker location in the ceiling, across the
attic, then down through a top plate (the
horizontal 2x4 or 2x6 laid across the vertical studs) to the volume control location,
back up to the attic, across the attic, and
finally down another wall plate to a j-box
in the wall behind the stereo system itself
(See Figure 11).
Identify where all of your electrical, phone,
and TV wiring is likely to be and plan to
route around it all. You can accidentally
induce 60Hz hum on your speakers if you
run your speaker wire right beside electrical wire for more than a few feet. Try to
run speaker wire parallel to power cables
at least 3 feet away. To find exactly where
an electrical cable is routed, try inspecting
the inside of the wall by turning off the
breaker for a particular power outlet or
switch, removing the cover plate and
11
switch or receptacle, and shining
a penlight into the wall. If you
have access to an attic or basement space you can quickly see
which part of the wall space is
free of obstructions
12)
.
(See Figure
When you don’t have access
above or below the wall, try to
estimate the existing wire and
pipe locations from the positions
of electrical outlets and plumbed
fixtures on both sides of the wall.
Take a look at the outside of your
house too, sometimes conduit,
vents or drain pipe will be visible
giving useful information.
Choose the route with the fewest
potential obstacles.
If your house is built on a slab or
Figure 11
you are wiring between two finished floors, look for baseboards which
could be removed and replaced with the
wire behind them. Doorjambs can be
removed and often have enough space for
speaker wire all the way around the door
(See Figure 13).
Sometimes, an under-the-carpet run is pos-
peaker
S
Location
Volume
Control
Location
Stereo
Location
sible (there are special flat speaker wires
made for under-the-rug wire runs). As a last
resort, heating and air conditioning vents
can be used as wire raceways for plenum
rated wire (check your local building codes,
some municipalities require conduit).
Installation Fundamentals
Unobstructed
space for
speaker wiring
Figure 12
2
1
Installation Fundamentals
In traditional wood ceiling joist/drywall
Figure 13
construction you should first cut the hole
for the speaker and utilize the large hole to
auger holes across the ceiling (through the
ceiling joists) for as far as your drill bit will
take you. Sometimes, you will need to use
the “notching” technique to reach areas
your drill bit won’t reach or to turn corners
(e.g. to go down the wall when there is not
an accessible attic). Don’t make an irregular hole in the drywall. If you carefully cut a
rectangular hatch in the drywall you will
make your patch at the same time you cut
your hole. Notch the bottom of the joists
and run the wire through the notches.
Protect the wire with nail plates. Once
you’ve run your wire replace the hatch you
cut using standard drywall “joint tape” and
“joint compound” to hold the patch in
place, let dry, sand the surface and touchup the wall with paint
(See Figure14).
The doorjamb has been removed and the speaker wire concealed between the wall and the jamb.
Nail plates are installed to protect the wire and
the door jamb is replaced.
13
Ceiling
Nail plate
Joist
Stud Plate
Nail plate
Wall
Figure 14 Diagram of ceiling speaker cut-out with ceiling joists notched for wire run.
Installation in New
Construction
Stage One: Before Drywall is Hung
Insulating the Wall Cavity.
If feasible, fill the wall cavity with insulation
at this point
Mounting The CM8 Series
New Construction Bracket
The hole saving bracket enables a faster
and cleaner final installation of the speaker.
It forces the drywall installer to cut out the
speaker hole for you and provides wire ties
for the speaker wire, reducing the risks of
accidental loss or movement of the wire. In
addition, it enables you to align your speakers with other ceiling fixtures with great
accuracy since you can really see exactly
where the speaker will be.
To install the bracket, first attach the
QuickSnap
bracket by snapping them into the sides of
the bracket. The wings can be shortened by
.
™
new construction wings to the
breaking them along the scored lines if their
length will interfere with a corner or eaves.
The wings and brackets have centering lines
to simplify the placement of the speaker.
Screw one side of the assembled bracket
with wings to the joist using one of the
supplied screws. Level the bracket. Screw
the other side of the bracket/wing assembly to the joist. Two screws on each side
makes for a very secure installation.
Secure the wire to the bracket using the
bracket’s wire tie
drywall installers will cut the drywall to
the exact size of the bracket.
(See Figure 15). The
Concealing Speaker Wire for
a Future Installation
Attach the speaker wire in a loop between
the ceiling joists and carefully mark the
exact location of the wire on a set of plans
Ask the general contractor to inform the
drywall installers that the speaker wire
loops are concealed for future installation.
(See Figure 16).
Installation in New Construction
Figure 15
The optional hole saving brackets are installed
and the speaker wire is attached to the bracket.
Figure 16
A loop of wire is attached to the joists marking
the location of the speaker.
14
Installation In Existing Construction
Installationin
Existing Construction
IMPORTANT: Before you cut into any
wall, review the sections on running
wire and speaker placement.
1. When determining the location of the
speaker cutout keep in mind that the
mounting dogs will extend 3/4” beyond
the cutout. Make sure that you do not
place the edge of the cutout directly next
to a ceiling joist. Locate the joists using a
stud sensor or hand-knocking.
2. Once you have determined a possible
position for the cutout, drill a 1/8” pilot
hole barely through the wallboard or
dry wall (1/2” to 5/8” deep in most
homes) in the center of your proposed
speaker location. BE VERY CAREFUL
NOT TO DRILL THROUGH EXISTING
WIRES, PIPES, OR STRUCTURE. IF
YOU FEEL ANY EXTRA RESISTANCE
AS YOU ARE DRILLING, STOP.
3. Cut a foot long piece of coat hanger.
Bend the wire (creating a right angle)
leaving 5-1/2” at one end (this allows
for the extra width of the mounting
dogs). Poke the “L-shaped” wire into
the pilot hole and turn it in a complete
circle and move it into the ceiling cavity to make sure you have approximately
3-3/4” of depth. If the coat hanger
movement is obstructed by anything, fill
the hole(s) with spackle and try another
location.
4. If the coat hanger moves freely in a
complete circle, hold the supplied template up to the ceiling surface. Outline
the circular cutout on the ceiling surface with a pencil. Drill a starting point
with a 1/4” drill bit.
(See Figure 17) .
Figure 17
Feeling for obstructions
behind the ceiling surface.
5. If you are cutting into
sheetrock or keyhole saw. Cut the hole
with the saw at a 45° angle. That way,
the drywall section can be replaced
cleanly if there is an undetected obstruction behind the ceiling surface. BE VERY
CAREFUL NOT TO SAW THROUGH
EXISTING WIRES, PIPES, OR STRUCTURE. IF YOU FEEL ANY EXTRA RESISTANCE AS YOU ARE CUTTING, STOP.
6. If you are cutting into a
use masking tape to outline your penciled circle and use a razor to score the
plaster down to the lath beneath. Then
use a chisel to remove all of the plaster
within the taped outline. To actually cut
the lath, two methods are used professionally; sawing with a metal cutting
blade on a sabre saw is the quickest
and the
sabre saw can easily vibrate plaster off
the ceiling in a completely distant location creating more patch work. If you
have the patience, use a pair of tin snips
to slowly nip away at the lath instead.
There is no risk with this method, it is
just time consuming.
riskiest. Sawing a lath with a
drywall use a
plaster ceiling,
15
Final Installation in New
or Existing Construction
1. If it is possible to lay a batt of insulation
into the ceiling cavity, do so. Remember
to use equal amounts of insulation for
each speaker.
2. Separate the speaker wire so that at least
two inches of each conductor are free.
3. Open the no-strip terminal by applying
pressure to the red and black levers until
an audible “click” is heard.
4. Insert one unstripped wire fully into the
black and one into the red terminal. Pay
attention to the markings on the wire.
Each speaker must be connected to the
amplifier in the same way. If unsure,
see section “Speaker Phase” located on
the following page. Squeeze the red
and black levers until they click signify
ing that they have locked into the wire.
5. Insert the no strip terminal into the
corresponding socket on the rear of the
speaker. Push it down until it locks in
place. The terminal will only fit in the
socket in one direction. If the terminal
does not properly seat, reverse the terminal
6. Connect the wire which runs to the
satellite speakers to the left and right
output terminals. Pay attention to the
markings on the wire.
7. There are four clamps or mounting
“dogs” which hold each speaker in
place. The dogs are tightened via four
front-baffle screws. To install the speaker,
first rotate the dogs inward. Insert the
speaker into the cutout and tighten the
dogs by turning the screws clockwise.
DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THESE
SCREWS. Over-tightening the clamps
may make the grille difficult to install.
8)
1
e
Figur
e
(Se
.
Figure 18
Tightening the
mounting “dogs”
NOTE: The screws will be easier to turn if
you “prime” them first. Before installing each
speaker, turn the screws in and then turn
them back out to their original positions.
Setting the High Pass Filter
8.
When the “SAT” filter is in the CUT
position, all of the bass energy will be
produced via the CM8SW. When the
switch is in the FULL position, both the
satellite speakers and the CM8SW will
reproduce the bass signal. Typically,
-
satellites with woofers that are 5-3/8” or
smaller will sound best with the filter
on. Listen to a loud and well recorded
bass passage to evaluate.
Setting the Subwoofer Low Pass Filter
9.
With the “SUB” switch in the 100Hz
position, the CM8SW will only reproduce bass below one hundred cycles.
When the switch is in the 140Hz position, the CM8SW will reproduce bass
below 140 cycles. Depending on the
size of the room, the type of satellite
speaker and the subwoofer position,
you will prefer one setting to the other.
Listen to a loud and well recorded bass
passage to evaluate.
10.Install the grille into the speaker. The
grilles should fit snugly. If you have difficulty fitting them in, try loosening the
mounting dog screws slightly (excessive
tightening can distort the shape of the
frame holding the grille in place).
Final Installation In New Or Existing Construction
.
16
Final Installation In New Or Existing Construction
Painting the Speakers
All models may be painted. The plastic will
readily accept most paints.
The speakers must be masked prior to
painting them. The inside circular portion
of the hole template can be used as a
paint mask. Remove the outside portion of
the template by gently pulling along the
perforation. Affix the mask to the front of
the speaker by friction-fitting the mask into
the bezel.
The grilles should be painted before they
are installed. For all models, the best
results will be obtained by using a spray
gun or airless sprayer, thinning the paint
(prevents clogging of grille holes), and by
applying several light coats instead of one
heavy one.
Speaker/Subwoofer Phase
Speaker wire has two conductors. One
conductor is attached to the negative (–)
terminals and one conductor is attached to
the positive (+) terminals of both your
speaker and your amplifier. Usually, the
wire is marked for your convenience.
There are different ways wires are marked:
a stripe on one wire, a ribbed area of one
conductor you can only feel, different colors of metal wire on each conductor, or
there might be a fabric strand or string
wound into one of the conductors. Of
course, there are some wires which appear
completely identical. Be careful, or you
might make a mistake.
If you make a mistake, there are three pos
sibilities:
Subwoofer Input Phase Reversal
.
1
The Left Input of the Subwoofer is out of
Phase with the Right Input. If this is the
case, you will hear almost no output out
of the subwoofer when playing a loud
bass passage. Try reversing one of the
subwoofer inputs. If the sound gets a
great deal louder, that was the problem.
If bass sound was reduced return the
connections to their original state.
Subwoofer /Satellite Relative Phasing
2.
An acoustically out-of-phase sat/sub
combination works against each other
and the sound of the overall system will
be lacking in bass. This might be
because of the
rather than an error in wiring. Try reversing the phase of both the left and the
right outputs of the subwoofer. Make
sure you evaluate (listen) from the primary listening position.
Satellite Left-Right Phase Reversal
3.
If the right satellite is reversed in phase
from the connections on the left satellite,
you will hear reduced bass and a
“phasey” diffused vocal image. If you
suspect the sound is not right and you
cannot see any markings on the wire, try
this simple test:
a. Stand half way between the two satellite
speakers.
b. Play some vocal music with the amplifier
or radio set to Mono.
c. Listen to the apparent placement of the
vocals.
d. Turn off the amplifier and reverse one of
the connections on the subwoofer.
e. Repeat the listening test with the same
setting of the volume control. When
the sound has a richer bass, is slightly
louder and the vocal image is
“focused” the satellites are working
together or “in-phase”.
position of the subwoofer
17
Operation
Congratulations
A concealed CM8SW subwoofer installation
frees you to use your tone controls, play the system loudly and enjoy deep extended bass, even
if your satellite speakers are small. When used
with satellite speakers that have substantial bass
of their own, the CM8SW tightens the deep
tones and augments the bass musically.
Listening at Higher Volumes
It requires more power to achieve a reasonable
volume of sound in a large room than it does in
a small room. It is possible (even if you are not a
teenager) to turn the volume so high that the
amplifier
ping” distortion. If you are using an extremely
powerful amplifier it may be possible to hear
clicking or buzzing sounds from the subwoofer
as it tries to reproduce too loud a sound. If you
hear these sounds turn the volume down.
More typically you will hear clipping distortion
through your satellite speakers. Clipping distortion makes treble sound very harsh and unmusical. When you hear harsh sounding treble from
any good speaker, turn the volume down
immediately! Those harsh sounds are masking
some much more powerful ultra-high-frequency
sound spikes which will quickly damage any
fine loudspeaker. You are much less likely to
damage a speaker with a large amplifier
because it will be very loud indeed before it
produces any clipping distortion.
runs out of power. This creates “clip-
Operation
Cleaning
You can clean the speaker with a dampened
soft cloth or paper towel. If the speaker is
mounted high up on the ceiling, use a broom to
gently brush it off.
18
Specifications
Specifications
CM8SW
Driver Complement
8” dual voice-coil injection molded TCC (Talc, carbon and ceramic-filled) woofer with
butyl rubber surround
Design Principle
Infinite baffle for large and varying air volumes
Recommended Amplifier Power
10 to 150 watts per channel
Impedance
8 ohm
Frequency Response
35 – 140Hz, +/- 3dB
Sensitivity
90 dB for 2.83 volts of pink noise, measured at 1 meter on axis
Overall Exterior Frame Dimensions
10-5/8" diameter
Depth Behind Wall
4" (based on 1/2" drywall)
Wall Cut-Out Dimensions
9-1/2" diameter
Connections
Dual patented two-piece, no-strip speaker wire terminal, accommodates.12-18 gauge
19
WARRANTY REGISTRATION CARD
Model Purchased____________________________________________________________________________________
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PLEASE FILL OUT THE
WARRANTY REGISTRATION
CARD ON THE REVERSE SIDE,
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Miami, Florida 33116-0818
DETACH HERE
®
Limited Warranty
Niles Audio Corporation ("NILES") warrants its loudspeaker products to the original purchaser
to be free of manufacturing defects in material and workmanship for a period of five years
from date of purchase.
This Warranty is subject to the following additional conditions and limitations. The Warranty
is void and inapplicable if NILES deems that the product has been used or handled other than
in accordance with the instructions provided by the manufacturer, including but not limited to
damage caused by accident, mishandling, improper installation, abuse, negligence, or normal
wear and tear, or any defect caused by repair to the product by anyone other than NILES or an
authorized NILES dealer.
To obtain warranty service, take the unit to the nearest authorized NILES dealer, who will test
the product and if necessary, forward it to NILES for service. If there are no authorized NILES
dealers in your area, you must write to NILES and include your name, address, model and
serial number of your unit, along with a brief description of the problem. A factory Return
Authorization Number will be sent to you. DO NOT RETURN ANY UNIT WITHOUT FIRST
RECEIVING WRITTEN AUTHORIZATION AND SHIPPING INSTRUCTIONS FROM NILES.
If the above conditions are met, the purchaser's sole remedy shall be to return the product to
NILES, in which case NILES will repair or replace, at its sole option, the defective product
without charge for parts or labor. NILES will return a unit repaired or replaced under warranty
by shipping same by its usual shipping method from the factory (only) at its expense within the
United States of America. THERE ARE NO OTHER WARRANTIES, INCLUDING WITHOUT
LIMITATION, EITHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OR FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, WITH RESPECT TO THE PRODUCT.
REPAIR OR REPLACEMENT AS PROVIDED UNDER THIS WARRANTY IS THE EXCLUSIVE
REMEDY OF THE CONSUMER/PURCHASER. NILES SHALL NOT BE RESPONSIBLE FOR
ANY INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES EXCEPT TO THE EXTENT PROVIDED
(OR PROHIBITED) BY APPLICABLE LAW.
Limited Warranty
Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages,
so the above limitation may not apply to you. This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and
you may also have other rights which vary from state to state.
For the name of your nearest authorized NILES dealer contact:
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P.O. BOX 160818, Miami, Florida 33116-0818.
Please fill in your product information and retain for your records.
CM8SW
Model____________________________________________________________________________________
Serial No._________________________________________________________________________________
Purchase Date_____________________________________________________________________________
22
www.nilesaudio.com
Niles Audio
Corporation
. 130 Street
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3
23
1
Miami, Florida 33186
Tel: (305) 238-4373
185
Fax: (305) 238-
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© 2004 Niles Audio Corporation. All Rights Reserved. Niles, the Niles logo, and Blending
High Fidelity and Architecture are registered trademarks of Niles Audio Corporation.
MicroPerf is a trademark of Niles Audio Corporation. All other trademarks are the property
of their respective owners. Because we constantly strive to improve our products, Niles
reserves the right to change product specifications without notice. The technical and
other information contained herein is not intended to set forth all technical and other
specifications of Niles products. Additional information can be obtained on-line. Printed in
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