Niles IRP-2+ installation Manual

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MODEL
IRP2+
IRP2+
IRP2+
INFRARED EXTENDER MAIN SYSTEM UNIT
INSTALLATION & OPERATION GUIDE
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IIRRPP22++
Infrared Extender Main System Unit
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Introduction 1 Features and
Guide 4 Installation
Considerations 5 Installation 8 Testing the
IR Extender System 11
Trouble­Shooting 12
Power Status 22 Specifications 26
Introduction
An infrared (IR) extender system enables you to control your IR remote controlled A/V equipment from a remote location. This enables you to place your A/V components out of sight (behind cabi­net doors, in the rear of a room, or in a different room) and still con­veniently control your equipment.
The model IRP2+ is an IR Main System Unit. It is one of three elements that make up an infrared extender system:
1. IR Sensors receive IR commands from hand-held remote controls and relay the commands to the Main System Unit via a 2-conductor shielded cable. Generally, sensors are placed so that you can easily and naturally point your remote control directly at them. Niles offers an array of easily concealable sensors: wall-mount, ceiling-mount, sur­face-mount and table-top. IR sensors are the “eyes” of the system.
2. The IR Main System Unit provides a connection hub for the IR sensors and the IR flashers and is generally located near the A/V com­ponents. The Main System Unit’s level controls and LED indicators enable you to calibrate and troubleshoot an IR extender system. The Main System Unit is the “heart” of an IR extender system.
3. Infrared Flashers transmit the infrared signals from the IR Main System Unit to your A/V components. Niles manufactures both flood­ing flashers (model IRC-1) and miniature “pin-point” flashers (model IRC-2). Flashers are the “voice” of an IR extender system.
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IR Controllable
A/V Components
Room 1
IR Main System Unit
Remotely
Located
IR Sensors
Room 2
Figure 1 In a typical system, the IRP2+ provides for the connection of up to two remote room sensors (or keypads) and will control a maximum of eight audio/video components via its flasher connections (four IRC-1 flashers or eight IRC-2 flashers).
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Features and Benefits
The IRP2+ offers a number of improvements over other IR Extender Main System Units:
Universal system — compatible with virtually all brands of A/V
equipment and remote controls (the only exceptions are those brands using carrier frequencies higher than 64kHz).
ExclusiveNiles short-circuit protectionprovides foreasy installation.
Accommodates two IR sensors or keypads.
Provides two low-distortion, high-current Mosfet IR Flasher outputs;
one at full power, one with variable power.
Red "Power" L.E.D. enables you to test for proper power supply
operation and shorts between + (positive) and GND (ground) on your sensor connections.
Green "IR" Test L.E.D. enables you to test for proper operation,
interference, and for shorts between + and DATA on your sensor connections.
Built in “Status” generator broadcasts the amplifier “on/off” power
status over existing IR wiring to provide power status display when used with other Niles products like the IntelliPad that feature status display LED’s.
Screw connectors simplify installation.
Printed circuit board design assures high reliability.
Two year parts and labor warranty.
Proudly made in the USA.
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IRP2+ P arts Guide
Power Supply
is a UL listed and approved 12vDC wall adapter.
Red Power Test LED
enables you to test for proper power supply operation and shorts between + and GND on your sensor con­nections.
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Remote Sensor Connections
enable you to connect up to two remotely located IR sen­sors or keypads to the IRP2+.
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Green IR Test LED
enables you to test for proper operation, interference, and for shorts between + and DATA on your sensor connections.
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Power Socket
provides fast and convenient con­nection of the power supply.
Flasher Level Control
enables you to re­duce flasher level to match your A/V com­ponent’s sensitivity.
Status Socket
allows 12vDC wall adapter to provide amplifier on/off signal to “status” generator circuitry. See Power status page 22.
IR Data Output
allows the link­ing of multiple IRP units for systems requir­ing large num­bers of flashers.
Flasher Connections
provide for a maximum of eight flashers (four IRC-1 flashers or eight IRC-2 flashers). When more than one flasher is connected to a single output, it is connected in series.
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Installation Considerations
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IMPORTANT
Do not place the
IRP2+ on top of or
directly behind a
television set.
Some television
sets produce
intense electro-
magnetic interfer-
ence which may
disable your IR
extender system.
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Placement of the IRP2+
Place the IRP2+ conveniently close to the equipment it will be con­trolling. Generally, the unit is placed in a concealed location because its controls and indicators are only used during installation. Placement possibilities include:
1) Table-top (on the floor or shelf behind the equipment) See Figure 2.
2) Wall-mount (affixed to the back of the equipment cabinet or a nearby wall) See Figure 3 .
Figure 2: Table-Top Placement
1) Clean the bottom of the IRP2+ and the mounting surface with the enclosed alcohol pad.
2) Affix the enclosed self-adhesive rubber feet to the base of the IRP2+.
Figure 3: Wall-Mount Placement
1) Clean both mounting surfaces with the enclosed alcohol pad.
2) Affix the two enclosed strips of self adhesive Velcro® to the back of the IRP2+.
3) Mount the IRP2+ to the wall or cabinet back. Allow the adhesive to set as long as possible before connecting cables.
Self-Adhesive Rubber Feet
Self-Adhesive
®
Velcro
IRP2+
Base
IRP2+
Base
strips
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Wiring
From every IR Sensor location you must “home-run” a cable back to the IRP2+. Home run means that an individual cable is connected between each IR Sensor and the IRP2+. See Figure 4.
Room 1
Remotely Located
IR Sensors
Room 2
IRP2+
Figure 4: Home run the sensor cable from each sensor to the IRP2+.
IMPORTANT – AVOIDING INTERFERENCE
Avoid locating any of the cables, Sensors, Keypads or the Main System Unit near any potential sources of Electro­Magnetic Interference (EMI), such as light dimmers, speed controls for ceiling fans, electrical ballasts, television sets, large motors, heaters or air conditioners.
TECH TIP
Wire size is
expressed by it's
AWG (American
Wire Gauge)
number . The lower
the AWG number,
the larger the wire,
i.e., 20 AWG wire is
physically larger than
22 AWG.
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Figure 5: An IR sensor cable is “daisy-chained” from a sensor to a keypad and then back to the IRP2+.
CAUTION!
Do not use un­shielded cable
between any
remote IR sensor
or keypad and the
IRP2+.
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Keypad Wiring
When you are placing both a keypad and a sensor (or two keypads) in one room you may “daisy-chain” using a single cable. A cable is run between the keypad and the sensor and a single cable is run from either the sensor or the keypad back to the IRP2+. See Figure 5.
Sensor/Keypad Cable
The IRP2+ connects to IR sensors and keypads with 2-conductor shield­ed cable. Recommended cables are “data grade” cables made of two 22 gauge (or larger) conductors surrounded by a foil shield and a bare drain (ground) wire. Data grade cable provides the capability for runs of up to 500 feet to each sensor. Examples are West Penn D291, Belden 8761 or Carol C2516. Any 22 to 16 gauge 2-conductor shield­ed cable available at a hardware store will accommodate 150 foot runs to each sensor.
Flasher Cable
Niles infrared flashers come supplied with a 10 foot 2-conductor 22 gauge cable. Should you need to extend it, use a 16 gauge 2-conduc­tor cable (“zip-cord”). Shielding is not necessary for a flasher. Flasher wires can be extended up to 200 feet.
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Installation
Before you begin, make sure that the sensor/keypad cables, the flash­er cables and the 12vDC power supply cable will all reach the pro­posed location of the IRP2+. Mark the cables with labels describing where the cable originates (rather than which terminal on the IRP2+ it should connect).
For proper installation, follow the steps outlined below in the correct order. If you discover a fault in the course of installation, go on to the Troubleshooting Guide before continuing with the next installation step.
To
unswitched
AC outlet
Receiver
IRP2+
MS-1 Sensor
TOOLS
REQUIRED
• 1/8" Standard Slotted
Screwdriver
• Wire Stripper
Figure 6:
IRP2+ Installation
IRP2+ Sensor Connection
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STEP
1. Connect and test the power supply. If it tests OK, unplug the connector from the power socket and pro­ceed.
2. Connect the first Sensor/ Keypad cable to either one of the Sensor inputs.
3. Test for shorts and interfer­ence.
DESCRIPTION
A) Plug the supplied 12vDC power supply into an unswitched 120V AC outlet .
B) Plug the connector into the socket marked “Power” on the IRP2+.
C) If the Power LED does not light, test the unswitched 120 VAC outlet with another appliance. If the outlet tests OK, you have a defective power supply which must be replaced for you to continue.
A) Strip 1/4” of insulation from the wire ends of the cable. B) Attach the exposed wire ends to the appropriate connector.
Be careful to prevent a filament of wire from shorting out two connectors. Red = +12v Bare = GND Black = DATA
A) Reconnect the power supply. If the Power LED lights and the IR Test LED stays off, unplug the connector from the power socket and proceed to Step 4. The following LED con­ditions show a fault:
• If Power LED is Off there is a short between +12v and GND
• If IR Test LED is On or Flickers there is a short between DATA and GND Or Interference is present.
Before you proceed to Step 4 consult the Troubleshooting Section beginning on page 12
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STEP
4. Connect the flashers to the flasher outputs. If you need to extend the wire, use a 2-con­ductor 16 gauge or larger (See
DESCRIPTION
Route the connecting 2-conductor wire to the IR Main System Unit. Connect the ends of the wire to the corre­sponding positive and negative terminals labeled “Flasher” on the IRP2+.
Tech T ip on page 6).
BE SURE TO OBSERVE PROPER POLARITY WHEN
CONNECTING OR EXTENDING THE FLASHER WIRE. IRC-1 the wire lead marked with a gray stripe is
negative (-); the unmarked lead is positive (+). IRC-2 the silver colored wire lead is negative (-); the
copper colored wire lead is positive (+).
5. Connect multiple flashers to a single output by connecting in series.
Use crimp caps, wire nuts or solder to connect the negative of one flasher to the positive of the next flasher as shown to create a series circuit.
IRC-1 Flooding Flasher allows a maximum of TWO in series
–+
IRC-2 MicroFlasher allows a maximum of FOUR in series
+–
6. Test for proper operation with all sensors and remote controls.
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T esting the IR Extender System
Test your IR Extender system by following the three principal guidelines:
1. All components can be operated. Test all of your remote controls for all of your equipment.
2. Operation is consistent. A good test is to repeatedly step from Pause to Play with your VCR, CD, Laser, or Tape player remote con­trol. Operation should be identical to standing in front of the compo­nent with the remote control pointed directly at the sensor window.
3. Maximum Range between the Remote Control and the Niles IR Sensor is similar to the maximum range between the Remote Control and the A/V component’s IR sensor. Typically a remote control with two batteries will have a 15 to 20 foot range and a remote with four batteries will have a 20 to 30 foot range.
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T roubleshooting Guidelines
There are four basic problems which prevent proper operation. In the order of probability the problems are:
Bad Connections or Wiring
If the connections or wiring are wrong, loose, shorted or open the system will not operate properly. The symptoms could include: Power LED flickers or is off, IR Test LED is continuously flickering or on without any remote control use, intermittent operation or no operation.
3
4
and
Steps
13
Steps
15
Steps
26
Steps
Flasher Level is Too High
Many audio/video co mp on e nt ’s sen so rs ar e o ve rl oaded by receiving to o st r o ng of an IR com ma n d f r o m t h e flasher. Symptoms can include: popping and clicking sounds from the speakers when a button is pressed on the remote control, poor IR receiving range, intermittent operation or no operation.
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Step
Optical or Electromagnetic Interference
Sunlight, reflections, neon signs and other sources of infrared light or televi­sion sets, light dimming controls and other sources of electromagnetic fields can induce noise and interference into your IR extender system. Symptoms can include: flashback LED’s continuously flickering or on without any remote control use, poor range, intermittent operation or no operation.
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Steps
test your power supply connections.
14
23
thru
,
18
thru
27
and
tests your cable for shorts and opens.
provides detailed instructions on setting the proper flasher level.
through
25
thru
test your Sensor connections.
test your Flasher connections.
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troubleshoot interference problems.
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Optical Feedback Loop
If you have an IR sensor in the same room as a flasher, and you have some low-level noise or interference, an optical feedback loop can occur which will interfere with proper operation. Symptoms can include: poor range, intermittent operation or no operation.
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Steps
feedback loops.
Start from Step One
In your installation you may be faced with a combination of the four problems or symptoms that are universal to all of the problems. Rather than trying to guess which problem you have, use a process of elimination. The Troubleshooting section is designed to eliminate the most common problems first. If you start from Step 1 and methodical­ly check everything you will find the problem in much less time than the troubleshooter who makes assumptions.
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provide instructions for eliminating optical
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T roubleshooting Guide
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1
Test Remote Control
Verify that the remote control works by operat­ing the equipment directly. If the remote does not operate your system directly, replace the batteries of the remote control. Replace the remote control if necessary
2
Flasher Positioning
Flashers operate line-of-sight; be sure they are unobstructed and aimed at the front panel sensor windows of your components.
3
12v DC Power Supply
Test that the red IRP2+ power LED is on when the wall adapter is plugged into an unswitched AC outlet.
• Power LED On: Go to Step 13
• Power LED Off: Go to Step 4
4
Disconnect Sensors
If the power LED does not light, disconnect all sensors and retest the power supply.
• Power LED On: Go to Step 6
• Power LED Off: Go to Step 5
.
5
Replace Power Supply
Either your power supply or your IRP2+ is defec­tive. If you have another 12v DC power supply, first check that it has the same polarity (+ on the tip, GND on the sleeve). Plug the new power supply in and observe the Power LED.
• Power LED On: Retest System per page 11
• Power LED Off: Return IRP2+ to your local
Niles dealer for testing
6
Test Sensor Input 1
Reconnect one of the sensor cables. Re-test; plug the power supply back in and observe the Power LED.
• Power LED On: Go to Step 7
• Power LED Off: Go to Step 8
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Test Sensor Input 2
A) If you DO NOT have a second sensor/keypad, Go to Step 12.
B) If you DO have another sensor/keypad, con­nect it to the second sensor input and re-test.
• Power LED On: Go to Step 12
• Power LED Off: Go to Step 8
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8
Short between +12v (positive) and GND (ground).
Examine the connectors for a hair-like filament of wire between any of the contacts at the IRP2+ and at the sensor or keypad.Then retest.
• Power LED On: Go to Step 12
• Power LED Off: Go to Step 9
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Test the Cable for Shorts
Disconnect the cable at both ends (at the sen­sor and at the IRP2+) and test it for shorts. Use an ohm meter or electrical continuity checker. You should read an open (Infinite Ohms) between Red and Bare, Red and Black or Bare and Black.
• Short in Cable: Replace cable
• Cable tests OK: Go to Step 10
10
Replace the IRP2+
If you have another IRP2+, replace the one in the system and retest, if not go to Step 11.
11
Replace the Sensor or Keypad
If you have another Sensor or Keypad, exchange it and retest the system, otherwise return the IRP2+ and the sensor/keypad(s) to your local Niles dealer for testing.
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12
System suddenly seems to beOK again.
The connections were poor and by touching and inspecting them you have changed their condition. Jiggle and tug on the wires and recheck the connections. If they all seem secure, retest the entire system per the guidelines on page 1 1.
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IR LED without any IR input.
Observe the green IR Test LED on the IRP2+ with the power supply plugged in and all sen­sors and flashers connected.
• IR Test LED is Onor is Flickering: Go to Step 32
• IR Test LED is Off: Go to Step 14
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IR LED with IR input.
Have someone watch the green IR LED on the IRP2+ while you aim a remote control at a remote sensor and press a button.
• IR Test LED Flashes: Go to Step 15
• IR Test LED Off: Go to Step 23
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Flasher Connections
Verify the polarity of the flasher connections. Flashers must be connected according to Steps 4 and 5 on page 10. Examine the con-
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nectors for a hair-like filament of wire between any of the contacts. Retest the system accord­ing to the guidelines on page 11.
• Good Operation: Congratulations!
• Poor Operation: Go to Step 16
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Flasher Output Too High
Som e audio/video c o m ponent’s sensors are overloaded by too strong a command fr om the flasher. Connect the flasher(s) to the variable output of the IRP2+ and use a 1/8” slotted screwdriver to reduce the output level to minimum (counter-clockwise). Retest the system according to the guidelines on page 11.
• Poor Operation: Move the flasher so that it is farther away from the sensor window or off to the side of the sensor window. Retest the system.
• Poor Operation: Start raising the level (a quarter turn clockwise each time) and retest­ing until level is back to full.
• Poor Operation Continues: Go to Step 17
17
Test Flashers.
A) If you have only ONE FLASHER, reconnect it to the other flasher output. Retest the system according to the guidelines on page 11.
• Good Operation: Congratulations!
• Poor Operation: Go to Step 19
B) If you have MORE THAN ONE FLASHER, dis­connect all of them and reconnect one flasher at a time. Test for improved operation. Continue testing until you have identified the defective flasher. Test all of your flashers.
•All flashers appear defective:Go toStep18
• One flasher doesn’t work: Return the defec-
tive flasher to your dealer
• All flashers now work: Congratulations!
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Test Flasher Outputs
Reconnect one flasher to the second flasher out­put of the IRP2+. Test for improved operation. Repeat Step 16 (adjust flasher level and posi­tion). Test for improved operation.
• Good Operation: Congratulations!
• Poor Operation: Repeat this step with anoth-
er flasher. Retest.
• Poor Operation Continues: Go to Step 19
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Sensors in the Same Room as a Flasher?
• If you have sensors in the same room as a
flasher: Go to Step 20
• If all sensors are in remote locations with-
out flashers : Go to Step 21
• If you have keypads only: Go to Step 21
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Optical Feedback Loop
If there is an IR sensor and an IR flasher located within the same room an "optical IR feedback loop" can occur. Replace the IRC-1 Flooding Flasher with an IRC-2 MicroFlasher on the front panel sensor window of each component. Place the enclosed IR blocking cover over each of the IRC-2 flashers. Retest the system.
• Good Operation: Congratulations!
• Poor Operation: Go to Step 16 (adjust Flasher
Level and Position) Retest system.
Still Poor Operation: Go to Step 21
21
Replace IRP2+ and Flasher(s)
Reconnect the system with a new IRP2+ and new flasher(s).
• Poor Operation Continues: Go to Step 22
22
Interference that Does Not Light the IR Test LED
Some very rare examples of interference (both optical and electro-magnetic) do not light up the IR test LED but do prevent proper opera­tion. Go to steps 36 and 37. Examine your installation carefully for a source of low-level optical or electromagnetic interference.
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Disconnect All Sensors and Keypads and Test One Sensor Input
Disconnect all Sensors and Keypads. Reconnect one of the sensor cables and retest the system (Have someone watch the green IR LED on the IRP2+ while you aim a remote con­trol at a remote sensor and press a button).
• IR Test LED Flashes: Go to Step 24
• IR Test LED Off: Go to Step 25
24
Test Second Sensor Input
A) If you DO NOT have a second sensor/ Keypad, Go to Step 25.
B) If you DO have another sensor/keypad, connect it to the second sensor input. Retest the system (Have someone watch the green IR LED on the IRP2+ while you aim a remote con­trol at a remote sensor and press a button).
• IR Test LEDFlashes: Go to Step 12
• IR Test LED Off: Go to Step 25
25
Bad Connections at the IRP2+ and/or at the Sensor/Keypad.
Verify that all connections are good both at the IRP2+ Sensor Inputs and at the remote sensor/keypad. Check that the jacket of each conductor has been properly stripped and
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inserted into the connector. Examine the con­nectors for a hair-like filament of wire between any of the contacts. Repair as necessary. Retest the system (have someone watch the green IR LED on the IRP2+ while you aim a remote con­trol at a remote sensor and press a button).
• IR Test LED Flashes: Congratulations!
• IR Test LED Off: Go to Step 26
26
Test Cable for Shorts
Disconnect the cable at both ends (at the sensor and at the IRP2+) and test it for shorts. Use an ohm meter or electrical continuity checker. You should read an open (Infinite Ohms) between Red and Bare, Red and Black or Bare and Black. If you find a short, replace or repair the cable as necessary. Retest the system (Have someone watch the green IR LED on the IRP2+ while you aim a remote control at a remote sensor and press a button).
• IR Test LED Flashes: Congratulations!
• IR Test LED Off: Go to Step 27
27
Test Cable for Opens
At one end of the cable, twist the exposed copper ends of the Red (+) and the bare (GND) conductors together. At the other end of the cable, use an Ohm meter or continuity checker to check for a break in the cable. You
should read a short (zero ohms) between the exposed copper ends of the Red (+) and the bare (GND) conductors. Repeat this test with the Red (+) and the Black (DATA) conductors. If you find an open, replace or repair the cable as necessary. Retest the system (have someone watch the green IR LED on the IRP2+ while you aim a remote control at a remote sensor and press a button).
• IR Test LED Flashes: Congratulations!
• IR Test LED Off: Go to Step 28
28
Connect Sensor to Other Input of the IRP2+
Disconnect the sensor and reconnect it to the other sensor port on the IRP2+. Retest the sys­tem (Have someone watch the green IR LED on the IRP2+ while you aim a remote control at a remote sensor and press a button).
• IR Test LED Flashes: Congratulations!
• IR Test LED Off: Go to Step 29
29
Replace the IRP2+ and/or the Sensor/Keypad
If you have another IRP2+, sensor or keypad, change it and retest the system, otherwise return the IRP2+ and the sensor/keypads to your local Niles dealer for testing.
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30
Disconnect All Sensors and Keypads
Observe the IR Test LED.
• IR Test LED is ONor Flickering: Go to Step 33
• IR Test LED is OFF: Go to Step 35
31
Move the IRP2+ to avoid Electromagnetic Interference
It is possible that the IRP2+ is receiving electro­magnetic interference from a nearby television or other appliance. Move the IRP2+ to another location and reconnect the power supply. Observe the IR Test LED.
• IR Test LED is ONor Flickering: Go to Step 34
• IR Test LED is OFF: Y ou have EMI in your origi-
nal location. Relocate the IRP2+ according to the guidelines on Page 5.
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Replace the IRP2+
If you have another IRP2+, exchange it and retest the system, otherwise, return the IRP2+ to your local Niles dealer for testing.
33
Test First Sensor Input
Connect one sensor/keypad to the first Sensor Input. Observe the IR Test LED.
• IR Test LED Off: Go to Step 36
• IR Test LEDis On or Flickering: Go to Step 37
34
Test Second Sensor Input
A) If you DO NOT have a second sensor/key­pad, Go to Step 12.
B) If you DO have another sensor/keypad, con­nect it to the second sensor input. Observe the IR Test LED.
• IR Test LEDis On or Flickering: Go to Step 37
• IR Test LED Off: Go to Step 12
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Test for Shorts
A) Verify that all connections at the IRP2+ are correct. Look for a hair-like filament of wire between the two contacts.
B) Verify that the sensor/keypad connections are correct. Look for a hair-like filament of wire between the two contacts.
C) Disconnect the sensor/keypad cable at both ends and test the cable itself for shorts. Use an ohm meter or electrical continuity checker. You should read an open (Infinite Ohms) between Red and Bare, Red and Black or Bare and Black. After testing all connections and cable, observe the IR test LED.
• IR Test LED is Onor Flickering: Go to Step 38
• IR Test LED is Off: Congratulations
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36
Test for Optical Interference
Reconnect the problematic sensor/keypad to the IRP2+. Cover up the Sensor with a piece of cardboard (your hand will actually create elec­tromagnetic interference under some condi­tions). Observe the IR test LED.
• IR Test LED On or Flickering: Go to 3 7
• IR Test LED Off: Go to 3 6
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Optical Interference
Identify the source of the interference. The most common sources of optical interference are listed in the order of their probability:
A) Sunlight. Reflections from windows, mirrors, swimming pools, shiny floors or objects.
B) Fluorescent light fixtures. C) Neon signs. D) A malfunctioning IR Remote Control. E) A malfunctioning Infrared Motion Detector
on your Security system. Either re-orient the sensor or move the source
of interference. Niles infrared sensors have built-in filters to attenuate the effect of visible light. If you add additional filtration you will reduce the effectiveness of the system with remote controls as well as the interference.
If you are using the MS-1 or the MS-2 minia­ture sensors consider exchanging them for IRR-4D, TIR-1 or the CMS-3 ceiling sensor. These three sensors have AGC circuits which serve as automatic filters.
If you choose to attempt to filter an MS-1 or MS-2, try a temporary material (e.g. a single thickness of facial tissue) and test whether fil­tration will solve the interference and still give acceptable range.
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Electromagnetic Interference (EMI)
Identify the source of the interference. The most common sources of electromagnetic interference are listed in the order of their probability:
A) Televisions (particularly large direct view sets).
B) Wall-mounted light dimmers or variable speed controls for ceiling fans. These controls emit more interference when turned down halfway. They emit little or no interference when turned up all the way (brightest posi­tion).
C) Fluorescent lights (the electronic ballast sometimes emits EMI)
D) Large appliances (air-conditioners, pumps, motors, compressors etc.)
E) AC line noise (noise brought into the system
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via the wall outlet connected to the IRP2+) Identify the EMI source by turning potential sources on and off (or fully up and fully down) and watching for any change in the IR Test LED on your IRP2+. Once you have identified the source of interference:
1) Move the sensor or the sensor cable away from the EMI source or move the source of the EMI away from the sensor or the cable.
2) Shield the sensor with a metal J-Box.
3) Connect the Sensor’s GND terminal to true earth ground (if this isn’t feasible use the IRP2+ GND terminal).
4) Place a ferrite ring around the cable creating the interference. Ferrite rings can be purchased from an electronic supply store.
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IMPORTANT
For the
IntelliPad’s status
feedback feature to work, the pre-
amp/receiver con-
trolling your sys-
tem should have a
switched AC out-
let, a switched outlet is a 120v
AC outlet that
switches off,
when the preamp/
rec-eiver is off
and switches on
when it is on via
remote control.
Power Status — Introduction
By adding an IntelliPadto your IRP2+ Infrared Extender System you will add a remarkable level of convenience to your system. The IntelliPad is the world’s first programmable, wall-mounted keypad system that provides a unique L.E.D. power status display and the convenience of true one-touch remote control of complex audio/video systems.
The IntelliPad’s status feedback feature eliminates the guesswork com­mon with standard IR control systems. The power L.E.D. on the IntelliPad indicates the On/Off condition of the system’s preamp/receiver.
Built-in intelligence tracks the On/Off condition of the preamp/receiv­er so the IntelliPad knows when it’s appropriate to issue the power command, even when the user doesn’t. The system maintains perfect synchronization between the amplifier and the user.
By combining an optional Niles 12vDC power supply with your IRP2+ you can send a status signal to an IntelliPad without running any addi­tional wiring. Built into the IRP2+ is a Niles Status Signal Generator. When the IRP2+ sees 12vDC at the status jack it broadcasts a Status signal over your existing IR sensor wires. Any IntelliPad connected to one of your sensor wires will display power status.
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The IntelliPad
®
Source Select Keys A single press of one of these keys will:
1. T urn on the Preamp/Receiver if it was off.
2. Change the input of your pre­amp/receiver to the selected source.
3. Changes the function of the Source Control Keys so that they operate the selected source.
4. Display which source is selected by backlighting the corresponding Sour
ce Label.
5. T urn on the local speakers (un-mute the speaker relay)
Status LED When the preamp/receiver is on, the status LED is lit. The color of the LED displays whether the local speakers are on or muted.
GREEN - Local Speakers and the Preamp/Receiver are on
RED - Local speakers are off, but the system is on.
OFF - System is off.
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Source Control Keys A touch to any of the source control keys will operate the selected source only.
Mute Key A touch to this key controls the IntelliPad’s built in speaker mute feature. You can mute the local speakers anytime, by pressing the Mute Key. To turn the local speakers back on (or unmute) you may press either the Mute key or one of the six Source Select keys.
olume Key
V This key raises and lowers the volume of your main system amplifier.
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CONVERTING
A LOW
VOL TAGE
CONTROL
OUTPUT TO
V
DC
12
Many compo-
nents, particularly
surround proces-
sors and digital
preamplifiers,
provide a low
voltage whenever
the component is
“on” rather than in “standby”. For the IRP2+ to cor-
rectly broadcast
power status you
must install an
optional Niles
OTI-512 Opto-
Isolated trigger
interface. The
OTI-512 will con-
vert 3-30 volts AC
or DC to 12vDC.
Power Status — Installation Considerations
Proper Power Supply
You must connect a Niles 12vDC wall adapter (Niles FG00665) into the switched AC power outlet of the preamp/receiver in your system. Any 12vDC power supply with a minimum of 100mA current capaci­ty can be substituted.
Extending the Cable
If you must extend the cable from the wall adapter to the IRP2+’s sta­tus input jack be sure to maintain correct polarity. The tip of the plug should be positive (+) and the sleeve negative (-). Any 16 gauge 2­conductor cable can be used to extend the power status cable up to 200 feet.
Checking the Power Supply
It is possible to check the status power supply itself and any connec­tions that were made to extend the cable by inserting the status plug into the Power jack on the IRP2+. If the Power LED lights the status power supply and connections are OK. If the Power LED does not light check all connections and replace the power supply if necessary. For more details on incorporating the IntelliPad please refer to the IntelliPad’s users manual.
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Stereo Receiver
IR Flasher
DC Power
Supply
Rear Panel of
Intellipad™
plugged
into
Switched
Outlet
Figure 7:
IntelliPad Basic Configuration utilizing Status Feedback and
Speaker Relay Features.
Loudspeaker Loudspeaker
IRP2+
DC Power
Supply
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Specificat ions
IR System
Compatible with virtually all brands of remotes using carrier frequen­cies between 18 and 100kHz. As of this publication date, the only known components using carrier frequencies outside this range are Bang & Olufsen components and 1996 model year Pioneer receivers using the ISC remote control (e.g. VSX-D704S).
iring Requirements
W
Individual home-runs of 2 conductor shielded cable from each sensor/keypad, West Penn D291 or equivalent
Unit Dimensions
4” wide x 1 3/4” high x 2 7/8” deep
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Power Requir
ements
12vDC500 mA power supply (included).
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Niles Audio
Corporation
www.nilesaudio.com
12331 S.W. 130 Street Miami, Florida, 33186
Tel: (305) 238-4373
Fax: (305) 238-0185
© 1999 Niles Audio Corporation. All rights reserved. Because Niles constantly strives to improve the quality of its products, Niles reserves the right to change product specifications without notice. Niles, the Niles logo and IntelliPad are registered trademarks of Niles Audio Corporation. Velcro is a registered trademark of Velcro (USA), Inc. Decora Home Controls is a registered trademark of Leviton Manufacturing Company. Printed in USA 1/99 DS00156A
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