Necchi NC-103D, NC-102D, NC-204D Instruction Manual

Instruction Manual
NC-103D
Important safety instructions
When using an electrical appliance, basic safety should always be followed, including the following:
Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.
DANGER
1. An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in.
WARNING
- To reduce the risk of electric shock:
- To reduce the risk of burns, re, electric shock,
or injury to persons:
1. Read the instruction carefully before you use the machine
2. Keep the instructions at a suitable place close to the machine and hand it over if you give the machine to a third party.
3. Use the machine only in dry locations.
4. Never leave the machine unattended with children or elderly people as they may not be able to estimate the risk.
5. This appliance can be used by children aged from 8 years and above and persons with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities or lack of experience and knowledge if they have been given supervision or instruction concerning use of the appliance in a safe way and understand the hazards involved.
6. Children shall not play with the appliance.
7. Cleaning and user maintenance shall not be made by children without supervision.
8. Always switch off the machine if you carry out preparation for work (change the needle, feed the yarn through the machine, change the footer, etc.).
9. Always unplug the machine if you leave it unattended, to avoid injury by expediently switch on the machine.
10. Always unplug the machine if you carry out maintenance (oiling, cleaning).
11. Don't use the machine if it’s wet or in humid environment.
12. Never pull at the cord, always unplug the machine by gripping the plug.
13. If the LED lamp is damaged or broken, it must be replaced by the
manufacturer or it's service agent or a similarly qualied person, in order to
avoid a hazard.
14. Never place anything on the pedal.
I
15. Never use the machine if the air vents are blocked, keep the air vents of the machine and the foot pedal free from dust, fusel and leftovers.
16. The machine must only be used with designated foot controller, in order to avoid a hazard. If the foot controller is damaged or broken, it must be
replaced by the manufacturer or its service agent or a similarly qualied
person.
17. The sound pressure level at normal operation is smaller than 75dB(A).
18. Do not dispose of electrical appliances as unsorted municipal waste, use separate collection facilities.
19. Contact your local government for information regarding the collection systems available.
20. If electrical appliances are disposed of in landlls or dumps, hazardous substances can leak into the groundwater and get into the food chain, damaging your health and well-being.
21. When replacing old appliances with new ones, the retailer is legally obligated to take back your old appliance for disposal at least for free of charge.
22. The appliance is not to be used by persons (including children) with reduced physical, sensory or mental capabilities, or lack of experience and knowledge, unless they have been given supervision or instruction. (For outside Europe)
23. Children being supervised not to play with the appliance. (For outside Europe)
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
This sewing machine is intended for household use only.
Be sure to use the sewing machine in the temperature range from 5ºC to 40ºC. If the temperature is excessively low, the machine can fail to operate normally.
To carry the sewing machine, hold the carrying handle with your hand, and support the sewing machine with the other hand.
II
Contents
Machine Introduction
Principal parts of the machine ...............................................................................................1
Accessories .............................................................................................................................. 2
Standard ................................................................................................................................................. 2
Optional .................................................................................................................................................. 2
Connecting machine to power source ................................................................................... 3
Polarized plug information ..................................................................................................................... 3
Foot control ........................................................................................................................................... 3
Foot controller with needle up and down feature ................................................................................... 3
Machine Setup
Sewing table .............................................................................................................................5
Free arm ................................................................................................................................................. 5
Two-step presser foot lifter .................................................................................................... 5
Install the extension table ....................................................................................................... 6
Adjust presser foot pressure .................................................................................................. 6
Winding the bobbin ................................................................................................................. 7
Inserting the bobbin ................................................................................................................ 9
Threading the upper thread .................................................................................................. 10
Bringing up the bobbin thread ............................................................................................. 13
Replacing the needle ............................................................................................................. 14
Matching needle/fabric/thread ............................................................................................. 15
Changing the presser foot .................................................................................................... 16
Remove the presser foot ...................................................................................................................... 16
Attach the presser foot ......................................................................................................................... 16
Remove and insert the presser foot holder.......................................................................................... 16
Insert the edge/quilting guide ............................................................................................................... 16
To raise or drop the feed dogs ............................................................................................. 17
Thread tension ....................................................................................................................... 18
Instruction
LCD screen ............................................................................................................................. 20
Operation buttons .................................................................................................................. 21
Selecting stitch ...................................................................................................................... 27
Memory function buttons ..................................................................................................... 28
Memory program.................................................................................................................... 29
Combine stitches.................................................................................................................................. 29
Recalling and sewing the memorized stitches ..................................................................................... 30
Inserting stitches .................................................................................................................................. 30
Editing stitches ..................................................................................................................................... 31
Clearing stitches .................................................................................................................................. 31
Repeat setting ...................................................................................................................................... 32
Stitch Chart
Stitch chart ............................................................................................................................. 34
A-Direct Pattern Group ....................................................................................................................... 34
B-Regular Pattern Groups .................................................................................................................. 34
C-Alphabet Group-Block style ............................................................................................................ 36
D-Alphabet Group-Script style ........................................................................................................... 36
III
Sewing Basics
Straight stitch ......................................................................................................................... 38
Changing the needle position .............................................................................................................. 38
Zigzag stitch ........................................................................................................................... 39
Starting to sew .......................................................................................................................40
Useful skills ............................................................................................................................ 42
Reverse sewing .................................................................................................................................... 42
Sewing curves ...................................................................................................................................... 42
Sewing corners .................................................................................................................................... 43
Sewing stretch fabrics .......................................................................................................................... 43
Sewing thin fabrics ............................................................................................................................... 43
Sewing heavy fabric ............................................................................................................................. 44
Utility Stitches
Stretch stitch .......................................................................................................................... 46
Straight stretch stitch ........................................................................................................................... 46
Zigzag stretch stitch ............................................................................................................................. 46
Sewing stretch fabrics and elastic tape .............................................................................. 47
Overcasting stitch .................................................................................................................. 48
Using the all purpose foot .................................................................................................................... 48
Using the overcasting foot ................................................................................................................... 48
Blind Hem ............................................................................................................................... 49
Buttonhole stitch ................................................................................................................... 50
Making a buttonhole on stretch fabrics ................................................................................................ 52
Bar tack stitch ........................................................................................................................ 53
Darning stitch ......................................................................................................................... 54
Eyelet stitch ............................................................................................................................ 56
Button sewing ........................................................................................................................57
Zipper insertion ...................................................................................................................... 58
Inserting a centered zipper .................................................................................................................. 58
Inserting a side zipper .......................................................................................................................... 59
Satin stitch sewing ................................................................................................................60
Gathering ................................................................................................................................ 61
Gathered fabric .................................................................................................................................... 61
To gather and attach gathered fabric in one step ................................................................................ 61
Smocking ................................................................................................................................ 62
Free motion darning, embroidery and monogramming .................................................... 63
Preparation for embroidering and monogramming .............................................................................. 63
Darning ................................................................................................................................................. 64
Embroidery ........................................................................................................................................... 64
Monogramming .................................................................................................................................... 64
Quilting ................................................................................................................................... 65
Using the edge/quilting guide ............................................................................................................... 65
Joining the pieces of the fabric ............................................................................................................ 65
Patchwork stitching .............................................................................................................................. 66
Applique .................................................................................................................................. 67
Fagoting .................................................................................................................................. 67
Scallop stitch .......................................................................................................................... 68
Scallop edging...................................................................................................................................... 68
IV
Scallop hem ......................................................................................................................................... 68
Cording.................................................................................................................................... 69
Single cording ...................................................................................................................................... 69
Striple cording ...................................................................................................................................... 69
Narrow hemming .................................................................................................................... 70
Twin need le ............................................................................................................................. 71
Maintenance and Trouble shooting
Maintenance ........................................................................................................................... 74
Clean the hook ......................................................................................................................................74
Clean the machine surface ...................................................................................................................74
Warning Function ...................................................................................................................75
Warning beeping sound ....................................................................................................................... 75
Trouble shooting guide ......................................................................................................... 76
V
Machine Introduction
Principal parts of the machine
① ② ③ ④ ⑤ ⑥ ⑦ ⑧ ⑨ ⑩ ⑪ ⑫ ⑬ ⑭ ⑮ ⑯ ⑰ ⑱ ⑲ ⑳ ㉑ ㉒ ㉓ ㉔ ㉕ ㉖ ㉗ ㉘ ㉙ ㉚
Take-up lever
Presser foot pressure dial
Operation buttons
Thread cutter
Sewing table and accessory box
Tension dial
Speed adjustment slide
Bobbin winder spindle
Bobbin winder stopper
LCD screen
Operation buttons
Pattern group switch button
Quick reference plate
Buttonhole lever
Needle threader
Needle plate
Needle clamp screw
Presser foot
Bobbin cover
Horizontal spool pin
Second spool pin hole
Handwheel
Main power switch
Power cord socket
Foot control connector
Bobbin thread guide
Upper thread guide
Handle
Presser foot lifter
Drop feed lever
1
Accessories
Most accessories are stored in the accessory box. The extension table and soft cover can be found aside of the packing styrofoam.
vStandard
All purpose foot (already installed)
①
Zipper foot
②
Buttonhole foot
③
Satin stitch foot
④
Button sewing foot
⑤
Blind hem foot
⑥
Overcasting foot
⑦
Hemmer foot
⑧
Gathering foot
⑨
Cording foot
⑩
Quilting foot
⑪
Darning/embroidery foot
⑫
Bobbin (4x) (1x already installed)
⑬
Spool holder (Large)
⑭
Spool holder (Small)
⑮
Spool pin felt
⑯
Second spool pin
⑰
L-screwdriver
⑱
Edge/quilting guide
⑲
Pack of Needle: 3x single needles
⑳
(75/11, 90/14, 100/16)
Seam ripper/brush
㉑
Twin needle (80/12, 2.5mm
㉒
distance) Extension table
㉓
Soft cover
㉔
vOptional
Walking foot
㉕
Note
To purchase optional accessories, please consult your local dealer for further information.
2
Connecting machine to power source
nAttention
Always make sure that the machine is unplugged from power source and the main switch is off ("O"), when the machine is not in use and before inserting or removing parts.
Before connecting the power supply, make
1
2
ONOFF
sure that the voltage shown on the rating plate is conforming with your main power.
Put the machine on a stable table.
1. Connect the machine to a power source as illustrated.
2. Turn the power switch to on ("I").
The sewing lamp will light up when the switch is turned on.
vPolarized plug information
This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade is wider than the other), to reduce the
risk of electrical shock; this plug will t in a
polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does
not t fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not t, contact a qualied electrician
to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.
vFoot control
When the machine is off, insert the foot control plug into its connector on the machine.
Turn on the machine, and then slowly press down the foot control to start sewing. Release the foot control to stop the machine.
vFoot controller with needle up
and down feature
User can quickly press one step on the foot controller to change the needle position go up or down into the fabric.
Note
Consult a qualied electrician if in doubt
as to connect the machine to the power source.
3
Machine Setup
Sewing table
Hold the sewing table horizontally, then pull toward the left to remove it from the machine.
Attach the sewing table, and then push it to the right.
The inside space of the sewing table is used as an accessory box.
vFree arm
Free-arm sewing is convenient for sewing tubular areas such as pant hems and cuffs.
Two-step presser foot lifter
The presser foot lifter is to raise or lower your presser foot.
When sewing multi-layers or thick fabrics, the presser foot can be further raised up manually to allow enough space for your sewing work.
The needle must always be at the highest position.
Note
5
Install the extension table
Pull the sewing table and accessory box off by sliding it to the left.
Follow the arrow, and stretch the foot of the extension table.
Snap (A) of the extension table into (B) of the machine.
Adjust presser foot pressure
The presser foot pressure dial is on the top left of the face plate.
The presser foot pressure of the machine has been pre-set and requires no particular adjustment for general sewing.
Basic presser foot pressure setting: "2".
For sewing with very thin fabric, reduce the pressure by turning the dial counter­clockwise. If kept turning the dial, it could be take out. By that time, just turn the screw clockwise, it could be locked back and readjust the pressure.
For heavy fabric, increase the pressure by turning it clockwise. Once dial could not be moved any further, it has been reached the bottom, please do not turn any more.
6
Winding the bobbin
Please following the number order and see the corresponding illustrations below.
1. Place the thread and spool holder onto the spool pin. For better sewing quality, choose a proper size of the spool holder for the thread and attach it next to the spool.
Large spool holder
①
1
2
Small spool holder
②
2. Draw the thread from the spool and place the thread in between the upper thread guide.
3. Wind the thread clockwise around the tension discs.
1
2
4. Place the thread end through one of the inner holes as illustrated and place the empty bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle. Then align the notch with bobbin winder spindle spring.
Notch
①
Bobbin winder spindle spring
②
5. Push the bobbin to the right. When the bobbin winder spindle is pushed to the
right, the screen will display the gure.
7
6. Hold the thread tail securely in one hand. Step on the foot control or press the start/ stop button to start winding the bobbin.
7. After the bobbin has wound a few rounds, stop the machine and cut the thread near
the hole of the bobbin. Continue lling
the bobbin until it is full. Once the bobbin is full, it rotates slowly. Release the foot control or press the start/stop button to stop the machine, then push the bobbin winder spindle to the left.
8. Cut the thread and then remove the bobbin.
Note
When the bobbin winder spindle is pushed to the right position, it’s in "bobbin winding" mode and the machine is not allowed to sew and the handwheel will not be able to turn. To start sewing, push the bobbin winder spindle back to the left.
Note
Use a bobbin that has been correctly wound with thread, otherwise the needle may break or the thread tension will be incorrect.
8
Inserting the bobbin
nAttention
Turn the power switch to off ("O").
When inserting or removing the bobbin, the needle and the presser foot must be fully raised.
Open the bobbin cover by pushing the release button to the right.
Release button
①
Insert the bobbin in the bobbin case with the thread running in a counter-clockwise
1
direction (arrow).
Pull the thread through the slit (A).
With a nger hold gently on top of the bobbin,
please follow the arrow markings and draw the thread into the bobbin thread guide from (A) to (B).
Pull the thread at the arrow markings into the stitch plate thread guide from (B) to (C).
To cut off excessive thread, pull it back to the cutter at point (C).
Close the bobbin cover.
9
Threading the upper thread
Please following the number order and see the corresponding illustrations below. It is important to carry out the threading correctly to get a quality sewing. Otherwise several problems will occur.
1. Turn the power switch to on ("I"). Raise the presser foot lifter.
ONOFF
2. Press the needle up/down position button to bring the needle and take-up lever to highest position.
3. Place the thread and spool holder onto the spool pin. For better sewing quality, choose a proper size of the spool holder for the thread and attach it next to to the thread.
Large spool holder
①
1
2
10
Small spool holder
②
4. Draw the thread from the spool and place the thread in between the upper thread guide.
5. Guide the thread ahead and pull the thread through the pre-tension spring as illustrated.
6. Continue to guide the thread into the silver discs to keep the thread in proper tension.
7. Pass the thread under the take-up spring then pull it upwards as arrow marks illustrated.
8. Pull the thread to the top then pass the thread through the slotted eye of the take-up lever. Guide the thread down afterwards.
9. Pass the thread behind the at, horizontal thread guide. Use the needle threader to thread the needle.
11
10. Lower the presser foot lifter.
11. Lower the needle threader lever slowly and draw the thread through the thread guide as illustrated and then to the right.
Lever
Hook pin
12. The needle threader automatically turns to the threading position and the hook pin passes through the needle eye.
Hook pin
Needle
1
2
13. Take the thread in front of the needle.
Hook pin
1
14. Hold the thread loosely and release the lever slowly. The hook turns and passes the thread through the needle eye forming a loop.
Pull the thread through the needle eye.
Note
our machine is threaded and ready for
Y sewing, follow the instructions on "Starting to sew" chapter to start sewing. (Page 40)
12
Bringing up the bobbin thread
When sewing gathering or smocking stitch, bring up the bobbin thread rst as below
instruction.
Hold the upper thread with your left hand. Turn the handwheel towards you (counter­clockwise) to lower the needle down below the needle plate then raise it to bring the bobbin thread up.
Gently pull on the upper thread to bring the bobbin thread up through the needle plate hole. The bobbin thread will come up in a loop.
Pull both threads to the back under the presser foot.
13
Replacing the needle
Change the needle regularly, especially when it shows signs of wear or if it causes problems.
nAttention
Turn the power switch to off ("O") when carrying out below operations!
1
2
1
Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the needle then loosen the needle clamp screw to remove the needle.
Needle clamp screw
①
When inserting a new needle, keep the at
side of the shaft to the back.
Push the needle into the clamp until it touches the pin and stops. Then secure it by tightening the needle clamp screw.
Flat side of the shaft
①
Pin
②
Needles must be in perfect condition.
1
2
3
Problems can occur with:
Bent needles
①
Blunt needles
②
Damaged points
③
14
Matching needle/fabric/thread
NEEDLE SIZE FABRICS THREAD
65/9 - 75/11
80/12
90/14
100/16
1. In general, ne threads and needles are used for sewing ne fabrics, thicker threads and needles are used for sewing heavy fabrics.
2. Always test thread and needle size on a small piece of fabric which will be used for actual sewing.
3. Use the same thread for needle and bobbin.
4. Use a stabilizer or place a backing for ne or stretchy fabrics, and select the correct presser foot.
5. It is recommended that a 90/14 needle should be used when embroidering on heavyweight fabrics or stabilizing products (for example, denim, puffy foam, etc.). A 75/11 needle may bend or break, which could result in injury.
6. For transparent nylon thread, always use needle 90/14 - 100/16. The same thread is usually used for the bobbin thread and upper threading.
Lightweight fabrics-
thin cottons, voile, serge, silk, muslin, Qiana, interlocks, cotton knits, tricot, jerseys, crepes, woven polyester, shirt & blouse fabrics.
Medium weight fabrics-
cotton, satin, kettleclote, sailcloth, double knits, lightweight woolens.
Medium weight fabrics-
cotton duck, woolen, heavier knits, terrycloth, denims.
Heavyweight fabrics-
canvas, woolens, outdoor tent and quilted fabrics, denims, upholstery material (light to medium).
Note
Light-duty thread in cotton, nylon, polyester or cotton wrapped polyester.
Most threads sold are medium size and suitable for these fabrics and needle sizes.
Use polyester threads on synthetic materials and cotton on natural woven fabrics for best results.
Always use the same thread on top and bottom.
15
Changing the presser foot
1
Turn the power switch to off ("O").
Always use the proper foot for the selected stitch. The wrong foot can cause the needle to break.
vRemove the presser foot
1
Raise the presser foot lifter. Press the back lever to release the presser foot.
①
vAttach the presser foot
Lower the presser foot lifter until the cut-out meets the pin.
nAttention
Lever
The presser foot will attach to the presser foot
1
2
holder automatically.
Cut-out
①
Pin
②
vRemove and insert the presser
1
2
foot holder
Raise the presser foot lifter. Align the presser foot holder with the lower left side of the presser bar. Hold the presser foot holder, then tighten the screw using the enclosed screwdriver.
Presser foot bar
①
Presser foot holder
②
vInsert the edge/quilting guide
Insert the edge/quilting guide in the slot as illustrated. Adjust the needed width according to your sewing applications.
Slot
16
①
Edge/quilting guide
②
2
To raise or drop the feed dogs
3
The drop feed lever can be seen on the base at the back side of the sewing machine.
Sliding the drop feed lever to lower or raise the feed dogs. When lever is in raised position, the feed dog will arise automatically when you are sewing.
Drop feed lever
①
Lowered position
②
Raised position
1
③
2
When you nish the work, (e.g. button
sewing, free motion darning, embroidery and monogramming), please move the drop feed lever to raised position for general sewing purpose.
Note
17
Thread tension
Proper tension setting is important for sewing. There is no single tension setting appropriate for all the stitch functions and fabrics.
Basic thread tension setting: "4".
Normal thread tension for straight stitch
1
3
2
4
sewing.
Upper thread
①
Bobbin thread
②
Surface
③
Wrong side
④
Thread tension is too loose for straight stitch sewing. To increase the tension, press the "+" button.
Thread tension is too tight for straight stitch sewing. To reduce the tension, press the "–" button.
Normal thread tension for zig zag and decorative sewing.
For all decorative sewing you will always obtain a nicer stitch and less fabric puckering.
Correct thread tension is when a small number of the upper thread appears on the bottom side of fabric.
18
Instruction
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