Hydrostatic Transmission Control Adjustment7-2
Hydraulic Lift Valve Adjustment7-4
Power Take Off (PTO) Adjustment7-5
PTO Belt Removal7-5
Rear Wheel Track Adjustment7-5
Undercarriage Locks7-6
Drive Shaft Removal7-6
Three Point Hitch Assembly7-7
Leveling the Deck (Optional Equipment)7-8
Model 931 44-inch Rear Discharge Mowing Deck8-6
Model 806, 846, and Series 800 “H” 46-inch Side Discharge Mowing Deck8-15
Model Series 800 “P” 50-inch Side Discharge Deck8-20
50-inch Side Discharge Deck for 900 Series Garden Tractor8-24
Model 824 Electric Sleeve Hitch8-27
30-inch Hydraulic Tiller Attachment8-31
Hydraulic Tiller Component Replacement8-39
46" Dozer Blade8-51
GLOSSARY
7
8
Glossary
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WORK SAFELY—FOLLOW THESE RULES
This symbol is used to call your attention to instructions concerning
your personal safety. Be sure to observe and follow these instructions.
1. To prevent accidental starting, always pull the
high tension wire(s) off the spark plug(s) before
servicing and/or adjusting the machine.
2. To prevent injury, do not allow children or
bystanders around the machine while it is
being adjusted and/or serviced.
3. Do not wear rings, wrist watches or loose fitting
clothing when working on machinery; they
could catch on moving parts causing serious
injury. Wear sturdy, rough-soled work shoes.
Never adjust and/or service a machine in bare
feet, sandals or sneakers.
4. Always wear safety glasses when using a
hammer, chisel or other tools that may cause
chips to fly.
5. Be sure to reinstall safety devices, guards or
shields after adjusting and/or servicing the
machine.
6. When operating a power washer to clean a
machine before servicing, be careful at all
times to avoid injury. Maintain proper footing
and balance at all times. Never direct the spray
at people or animals, as high pressure spray
can cause serious injury.
7. If a portable heater is used to heat the service
area, the following precautions must be
observed:
a. Do not use portable heaters in presence of
volatile materials such as gasoline or paint,
as fire or explosion may result.
b. To avoid being burned, do not touch the
heater during operation.
c. Portable heaters consume oxygen and
combustion fumes can be hazardous.
Heater should be used only in a well-ventilated area. Keep a window or door partially
open to provide ventilation.
1
d. Keep the heater at least four feet from
combustible materials.
e. Never use gasoline as fuel.
8. Handle gasoline with care—it is highly flammable.
a. Use approved gasoline container.
b. Never remove the fuel tank cap or fill the
fuel tank when the engine is running, is hot
or indoors. Also, do not smoke when working around flammable fuel.
c. Avoid fires—be sure container or funnel
does not touch the battery. Do not overfill
the fuel tank. Wipe up spilled gasoline.
d. Replace fuel tank cap securely.
9. Never use trouble lights or electric powered
tools that have cut and/or damaged cords or
plugs. Be sure all electric tools are properly
grounded.
10. Never run an engine in a confined area such
as a garage or storage building any longer
than is necessary for immediate moving of the
machine out of or into the area. EXHAUST
GASES ARE TOXIC. OPENING DOORS AND
WINDOWS MAY NOT PROVIDE ADEQUATE
VENTILATION.
11. After servicing, be sure all tools, parts or servicing equipment are removed from the
machine.
12. Electrical storage batteries give off highly
inflammable hydrogen gas when charging and
continue to do so for some time after receiving
a steady charge. Do not under any circumstances allow an electric spark or an open
flame near the battery. Always disconnect a
battery cable before working on the electrical
system.
1-1
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13. Hydraulic fluid escaping under pressure can
have enough force to penetrate the skin.
Hydraulic fluid may also infect a minor cut or
opening in the skin. If injured by escaping fluid,
see a doctor at once. Serious infection or reaction can result if medical treatment is not given
immediately.
Do not attempt to repair or tighten hoses that
are under pressure, when the boom is raised
or with the tractor engine running. Cycle all
hydraulic control valves to relieve all pressure
before disconnecting the lines or performing
other work on the hydraulic system. Make sure
all connections are tight and hoses and lines
are in good condition before applying pressure
to the system. To locate a leak under pressure,
use a small piece of cardboard or wood. Never
use hands.
14. When using an acetylene torch, always wear
welding goggles and gloves. Keep a charged
fire extinguisher within reach. Do not weld or
heat areas near fuel tanks or fuel lines and utilize proper shielding around hydraulic lines.
15. Always use safety stands in conjunction with
hydraulic jacks or hoists. Do not rely on the
jack or hoist to carry the load; it could fail.
Always use a safety bar to block hydraulic cylinders.
16. When splitting tractors or disassembling
machines, be sure to use safety stands and
adequate supports to prevent tipping or rollover.
17. Use a safety catch on all hoist hooks. Do not
take a chance, the load could slip off the hook.
18. Use pullers to remove bearings, bushings,
gears, cylinder sleeves, etc. when applicable.
Use hammers, punches and chisels only when
absolutely necessary. Then, be sure to wear
safety glasses.
19. Be careful when using compressed air to dry
parts. Use approved air blow guns, do not
exceed 30 psi, wear safety glasses or goggles
and use proper shielding to protect everyone in
the work area.
20. Petroleum based solvents, often used for
cleaning parts, are flammable. Use care to
avoid fire or explosion when using these solvents.
IMPORTANT: The above is only a partial list of
safe work rules. In addition, always refer to the
Operator’s Manual for the specific machine for
additional safe work rules regarding the
machine operation.
1-2
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GENERAL INFORMATION AND SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
2-1.SAFETY PRECAUTIONS.
NOTE
2-1.1Refer to the Safety Summary on page 1-1, and
observe all WARNINGS and CAUTIONS when
servicing equipment covered in this manual.
2-2.GENERAL.
2-2.1This service manual covers lawn mowers, rid-
ing equipment, snowthrowers, chore performers, rotary tillers and accessories through
model year 1998.
2-2.2More detailed instructions can be found in
each of the individual model service manuals.
2-4.NUMBERING SYSTEM.
2-4.1Due to the many different models, types of
LEFT and RIGHT indicate the left and right
side when facing forward in the driver’s seat or
behind the piece of equipment.
equipment and parts, it is very important to
understand the MTD numbering system and
how it is used. The following pages, Figures
and Tables will explain the system and what
each number and digit means.
2
2-3.REFERENCE DATA.
2-3.1Serial Number Location. Serial number plate is
located behind the seat on the rear fender. See
Figure 2-1.
Figure 2-1.
NOTE
IMPORTANT: When ordering replacement
parts, it is necessary to use both the model
number and the date code.
2-4.2Due to the many different colors of rims and
different tire tread designs on riding mowers,
orders for replacement tires and wheel assemblies must specify both color and tire brand.
These can be identified by using the appropriate 900 series number after the part number.
NOTE
If you are entering an order electronically, the
tire identification number can be entered where
the paint code number is entered for a painted
part.
2-5.CUSTOMER NUMBERS.
2-5.1In addition to customers who purchase tractors
and equipment marked with the MTD brand
and name logos, there are customers who
order tractors and equipment marked with their
own brand name and/or logos. Basic units are
the same except for color and decoration.
Refer to the master book for further information.
2-1
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BATTERIES AND CHARGING SYSTEMS
2-6.GENERAL.
2-6.1The main storage or electrical power in our
electric start lawn mowers, riders and tractors
is the battery. With proper setup and maintenance the battery will last for years. However,
in some remote cases even with proper maintenance a battery can lose power. This is
unavoidable and should be handled as per
warranty guidelines.
2-6.2A chemical reaction between the battery’s
electrolyte and plates, or electrodes, will supply electrical energy to an external circuit.
When the battery is being used, or discharging, the positive plate (lead dioxide) and the
negative plate (sponge lead) are both changed
to lead sulphate. At the same time, part of the
electrolyte (diluted sulfuric acid) is changed to
water. This conversion of diluted sulfuric acid
to water reduces the specific gravity of the
electrolyte. By measuring this specific gravity,
a direct measure of how far the discharge process has progressed can be made.
2-7.BATTERIES AND CHARGING RATES.
2-7.1There are basically 5 different batteries used.
In this section we will show the battery number,
the replacement number, cause of replacement, size, cold cranking amps and amp hours
at a given rate.
1. Battery 725-0514A (Figure 2-2) is replaced by
725-1633. These batteries are used on riders
and are the same size with the same cold
cranking amps. The number was changed due
to shipping regulations which would not allow
acid packs to be shipped with batteries. Acid
packs can be obtained by ordering part number 725-1637; how-ever, we suggest dealer
obtain acid locally. Battery caps, part number
725-0691, can also be ordered separately.
2. Battery 725-0453A (Figure 2-3) is shipped with
no acid. Acid can be obtained by ordering part
number 725-1637, but it is suggested acid be
purchased locally. Battery caps can also be
purchased separately by ordering part number
725-0690. Battery 725-0453A was used on
1989 and prior 700 and 800 series tractors.
This battery is currently used in the 900 series
tractor.
3. Battery 725-1105 which was supplied in 1987
is no longer available. Use kit number 7530459 as a replacement. The kit includes a battery, cover and adapting clip. The larger terminal end goes on the negative side of the
battery. The adapting clip also goes on the
negative side. The electric start unit uses a 7
amp fuse system.
4. Battery pack 725-1276 (Figure 2-4) is installed
in electric lawn mowers.
2-2
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2
NOTE
During shipment, the hot wire can vibrate off
the battery and the unit will not start. Take the
battery cover off, hook up the wire and charge
the battery.
5. Battery 725-1430 (Figure 2-5) is replaced by
725- 1635. These batteries are the same size
with the same cold cranking amp. The number
was changed due to shipping regulations
which do not allow acid packs to be shipped
with batteries. Acid packs can be obtained by
ordering part number 725-1637; however, we
suggest dealers obtain acid locally.
NOTE
Batteries 725-1430 only contain a special
chemical sulfate stop that has been added to
reduce sulfate crystal deposits (which eventually prevent the battery from accepting a
charge). Sulfate stop is a white powder chemical that may be visible before the battery is
activated, but dissolved once electrolyte is
added. After charging the battery (with sulfate
stop added), the specific gravity of electrolyte
rises to 1.280 or above. On a 5 ball hydrometer, it is acceptable to see the fifth ball float. If
the battery contains sulfate stop and has not
been in use for a long period of time, extended
recharging time is required.
2-7.2BATTERIES SECTION 1996-1998
#725-0453 E
Battery Type U1-11L
Dry 380 CCA Cold Cranking Amps @ Zero Degrees
Group No. U1L
Voltage 12V
Size Top 5.18 x 7.7
Number of plates 66
Height 6.12 to top of post 7.16
Weight wet 20.6 lbs.
Electrolyte capacity 72 oz.
2-3
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Previously this battery was 240 CCA and it has been
upgraded to 380 CCA which gives added cranking
power in cold weather. It is shipped dry and it is suggested that the acid should be purchased locally. The
acid pack number as shown is #725-1670 but acid is
considered to be hazardous material, therefore when
shipped, charges will be excessive due to special handling.
Battery #725-1704
Note! New Warning symbols
Battery Type U-1
Wet 125 CCA Cold Cranking Amps
All batteries are date coded
Replaced by #725-1707 C DRY 275 CCA Cold
Cranking Amps
Size 5.18 x 7.7
Height 6.12 with Post 7.29
Voltage 12 volts
The #725-1704 is a wet battery meaning that it is
shipped in the rider and it is hooked up with the positive
terminal connected and the negative terminal has a
plastic cover over it to protect from shorting out. The
purpose of this is to assist stores with fast product turnover and in this manner the unit is ready to operate in
the least amount of set-up time.
Battery #725-1707C
DRY 275 CCA Cold Cranking Amps.
Battery Type U-1 Flat Top
Size 5.19 x 7.72
Height 6.12 Including Post 7.30
Voltage 12V
Manifold Vented
Specifications for ’97-’98 will be the same except all will
be flat top style. The knobs will be flush with the top of
the battery.
YUASA - EXIDE makes the DRY, add acid type batteries EAST P E N N makes the WET non-service abletype battery.
WET batteries are anticipated to be used in 50% of our
production for fast moving product customers, all batteries can not be shipped wet because they would
have a shorter shelf life than a dry battery.
For ’97 - ’98 little changes are anticipated. Dependability over all styles will remain the same. Replacement
batteries will continue to be shipped without acid, and
acid must be obtained locally due to acid being a hazardous material, therefore requires special handling
when shipped.
Battery #725-1705C
WET 150 CCA Cold Cranking Amps.
Battery Type U-1
All batteries are date coded
Replaced by #725-1707C DRY 275 CCA Cold
Cranking Amps.
Voltage 12V
The #725-1705C is a wet battery and it is the same as
stated above. If a failure occurs in warranty the #7251707C will be shipped.
Battery #725-1706
WET 270 CCA Cold Cranking Amps.
Battery Type U-1
Negative terminal covered with a plastic cover and
shipped with the positive cable connected.
Replaced by #725-1707C DRY 275 CCA Cold
Cranking Amp.
All batteries are date coded
Battery is non-serviceable
Voltage 12V
The #725-1706 is a wet battery and is shipped in the
tractor and is ready to go by just removing the plastic
cover on the negative terminal and connecting the negative cable to the negative terminal.
New for ’98 season batteries will be similar in size but
top will be flat with nothing sticking up except the posts.
Fill caps will be flush with the top of the battery.
Batteries must be properly maintained if you
want long-life, this remark is repeated over and
over...
1. Check the electrolyte and add only water.
2. Keep clean, excessive acid build up around
the terminals and top of battery will cause a
discharge and drain the battery.
3. Check cables and clamps and battery case for
obvious reasons of leakage as this could
cause damage to the painted surfaces, the
battery compartments and to the pulleys and
transmission.
4. Make sure of the routing of the vent tubes and
that it is not pinched and left to drip on pulleys,
etc.
5. Replace caps firmly, if one or two gets lost,
replace them as soon as possible, often they
can be obtained from old batteries.
2-4
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6. Maintain a fully charged battery with a reading
by hydrometer showing 1.265.
2-7.3Recently, a man well experienced in automo-
biles and lawn and garden equipment was
charging a battery in his automobile in the
garage for a long period of time and decided to
check on how it was progressing. He walked
into a partially dark garage, not thinking, and
leaned over the battery and flipped on this cigarette lighter. Well, you can guess what happened next. The electrolyte gas exploded,
which is hydrogen and oxygen. He was very
lucky to have glasses on as the top of the battery hit him in the face. He quickly remembered
to turn the hose on his face and wash off the
acid which was starting to burn and no damage
was done, but he was left quite shaken and
thankful that things worse didn’t take place.
Think about it. His glasses were broken and
bent tight to his eyes which helped protect his
eyes, which proves it is a good practice to
wear glasses when working with batteries.
2-8. BATTERY STARTING CIRCUITS.
2. Dual circuit—3 amp AC system that runs
the lights and a 3 amp DC circuit to charge
battery
3. Tri-circuit—5 amp two diode system
2
4. Regulated 16 amp system
MTD mainly uses the dual circuit and regulated
systems.
2-9.2Regulated systems are installed on units with
electric clutches. These are Briggs and Stratton engines with a voltage regulator. Some of
the early units had an 8 amp circuit breaker in
the unit. This is a 16 amp unit and needs a 20
amp circuit breaker (part number 725-1382).
2-9.3Dual Circuit (Engine Alternator) (Figure 2-
6).
1. The charging system is an alternator located
under the flywheel. A half wave rectification
(single diode) is unregulated and rated at 3
amps at 3600 RPM.
2-8.1Battery starting circuits consists of the follow-
ing:
1. Battery as a source of energy
2. Starter solenoid switch to transfer high
starting current from battery to starter
(starter relay)
3. Key start switch or other switch to energize
the starter solenoid
4. Starter. A series wound, low resistance,
high current draw direct current motor.
NOTE
Sometimes the circuit breaker kicks out and
will not allow the unit to crank. Check the diode
wires to see if they are crossed. Reverse the
diode wires if crossed.
2-9. BATTERY CHARGING SYSTEM.
2-9.1There are four types of charging systems typi-
cally used on lawn and garden equipment.
1. Single circuit—3 amp system with one
diode
2. The diode changes AC to DC to charge the
battery. A bad diode can either fail to charge
the battery or discharge the battery if the alternator is shorted as well as the diode.
3. The 7 amp AC terminal operates the head
lamps. The voltage rises from 8 volts at 2400
RPM to 12 volts at 3600 RPM. Therefore, the
brightness of the lights changes with engine
speed. In certain situations it is necessary to
make use of the entire AC signal. To accomplish this we use multiple diodes in a bridge
configuration. This produces full wave rectifica-
2-5
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tion (regulator) which is regulated and rated 16
amps at 3600 RPM.
4. The 16 amp DC terminal at 3600 RPM operates the head lamp. The regulated system produces 12 volts DC which goes to the battery.
Engine speed will determine amount of amps
regulated.
2-9.4 Testing the DC Circuit (Figure 2-7).
2-10.BATTERY SHIPPING AND STORAGE.
2-10.1 Check List For Proper Battery Storage.
1. Electrolyte level correct.
1. Disconnect the charger lead from the battery
(small red wire).
2. Connect a 12 volt test lamp between the DC
charge lead and the positive terminal of the
battery.
3. With the engine off, the lamp should not light. If
it does, the diode and possibly the alternator
may have failed.
4. Start the engine. The lamp should light. If it
does not, the alternator (starter) or lead wire
could be bad.
ammeter in series with charging lead. See Figure 2-7. Start engine. Ammeter should indicate
charge. The charge rate is dependent upon the
condition of the battery. If ammeter shows no
charge, test stator and regulator.
2. Battery fully charged.
3. The exterior of the battery is clean.
4. Store battery in a cool place.
5. Rotate stock. Always use the oldest battery
first.
2.10.2 Dry Charged Battery Storage.
1. A dry charged battery has a shelf life of about
five years.
2. Keep in a cool, dry place with the humidity as
low as possible with a temperature between
60°F and 90°F. The temperature should be uniform and not subject to frequent changes.
3. Once a dry charged battery is actuated, it must
be maintained the same as any wet battery.
2-10.3 Wet Battery Storage.
1. Wet batteries will slowly discharge while in
storage.
2. Batteries not used in the winter should be
stored in a fully charged condition.
2-6
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3. Batteries in storage discharge slower when
kept cold than when too warm.
4. The best place to store the battery is in the
equipment.
2-11.ACTIVATING BATTERY.
2-11.1 The instructions listed below are packed with
every battery shipped with each unit. Following
these steps will prevent premature battery failure.
WARNING
LAWN AND GARDEN EQUIPMENT BATTERY (DRY AND CHARGED) FILLING AND
INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS. Do not fill
with electrolyte until battery is actually placed
in service. This battery is supplied dry and
charged. Do not fill with electrolyte until battery is to be used.
WARNING
POISON—CAUSES SEVERE BURNS. Contains sulfuric acid. Avoid contact with skin,
eyes or clothing. To prevent accidents, neutralize excess acid with baking soda and rinse
empty container with water. KEEP OUT OF
THE REACH OF CHILDREN.
ANTIDOTE:
EXTERNAL—Flush with water.
INTERNAL—Drink large quantities of water or
milk. Follow with milk of magnesia, beaten
eggs or vegetable oil. Call physician immediately.
EYES—Flush with water for 15 minutes and
get prompt medical attention.
3. Ventilate when charging or using battery in
enclosed space.
4. Make sure venting path of battery is always
open once battery is filled with acid.
NOTE
When the battery is charged, the heat will
expand the electrolyte.
1. Allow the battery to sit 20 to 30 minutes. This
allows the chemical action to take place.
2. The battery must be charged at the maximum
rate until a specific gravity is reached. See
paragraph 2.9.
3. Add electrolyte until it reaches the split ring.
CAUTION
DO NOT ADD ACID. Add only distilled water.
4. After charging, replace vent plugs firmly, wash
off acid spillage with water and dry the battery.
5. If time does not permit charging the battery, or
if charging equipment is not available, the battery should be installed and the unit should be
run continuously for 20 to 30 minutes in order
to sufficiently charge the battery.
2-11.2 Preparation for filling the battery is very impor
tant.
1. Remove vent plugs just before filling with electrolyte.
WARNING
2
WARNING
DANGER—BATTERY CONTAINS SULFURIC ACID MAY CONTAIN EXPLOSIVE
GASES.
1. Keep sparks, flame, cigarettes or any flame
away.
2. Shield eyes, protect skin and clothing when
handling acid or battery containing acid or
working near such batteries.
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Internal gas pressure can cause battery to
explode if sealing tube is left in place.
2. If your battery has a short sealing tube on the
vent elbow and is supplied with a separate
long tube, pull off short one and replace with
long one.
WARNING
Electrolyte is sulfuric acid solution. Avoid spillage and contact with skin, eyes and clothing.
See WARNING on back panel of battery.
2-7
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CAUTION
Do not use water or any other liquid to activate. During cold weather, if electrolyte (acid)
is stored in cold area, warm electrolyte to room
temperature before filling.
3. Fill battery with electrolyte (diluted sulfuric
acid) of a specific gravity of 1.265. Fill to upper
level as indicated on battery. Electrolyte should
be at room temperature before filling.
2-12. BATTERY INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS.
1. Remove old battery. Mark which cable is connected to positive (+) and negative (-) terminals. Positive cable is usually red.
2. Clean cable connectors with wire brush or
sandpaper to remove oxidation.
3. After filling with acid and charging (see instructions), install new battery. Connect cables to
the proper terminals. Positive cable to positive
terminal (+) and negative cable to negative terminal (-). CONNECT NEGATIVE CABLE
LAST.
CAUTION
Connecting in reverse, positive to negative and
negative to positive, can cause serious damage to electrical system.
4. Check vent tube to avoid any crimping or
obstruction to the tube.
5. Securely fasten battery to the unit using its battery holddown arrangement. This will minimize
destructive vibration.
2-13.COMMON CAUSES FOR BATTERY FAIL-
URE.
3. Decomposition of water leaves acid more concentrated. Concentrated acid is harmful to cell
components, particularly at high temperatures
over a prolonged period of time.
4. High internal heat is created, which accelerates the above mentioned corrosion of positive
plate grids and damages separators and negatives. Also, containers may be softened and
distorted.
5. Overcharging alone or in combination with a
previous condition of undercharging may
cause severe buckling and warping of positive
plates with accompanying perforation of separators.
6. May cause damage by corrosion to battery
box, cables and other vital electrical and
engine parts by forcing liquid from the cells if
charge rates are excessive.
2-13.2 Undercharging.
1. A battery operated with insufficient charge over
a long period of time may develop a type of
sulfate in the plates which is dense, hard and
coarsely crystalline and which cannot be
readily electro-chemically converted to normal
active material again. Such lead sulfate, being
less dense than the active material from which
it was formed, will set up strains in the positive
plates so that distortion or bowing of the plates,
called buckling, may result. Buckling will be
produced, especially if the sulfated battery is
subjected to sudden prolonged overcharging,
as might be experienced by an alternator or
generator-regulator system which has gotten
out of adjustment. Severely buckled plates will
pinch the separators at the plate corners or
chafe the center of the separators. This may
result in perforations of the separators and
develop a short circuit in the cell.
2-13.1 Overcharging. Charging a battery greatly in
excess of what is required is harmful in several
ways, as follows:
1. Severely corrodes the positive plate grids with
consequent mechanical weakening and loss of
electrical conduction.
2. Decomposes water of electrolyte into hydrogen and oxygen gas. Gas bubbles tend to
wash active material from the plates and carry
moisture and acid from the cells as a fine mist.
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2. A battery operated in an undercharged condition is not only unable to deliver full power, but
is liable to freeze during severe winter weather.
See paragraph 2-13.7.
3. Lead sulfate formed on the plates during discharge is relatively insoluble as long as the
specific gravity of the electrolyte indicates a
substantially charged condition. If allowed to
drop much below this state the lead sulfate
becomes increasingly soluble and, aided by
temperature fluctuations of the electrolyte, may
migrate over a considerable period of time into
2-8
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the pores of the separators and deposit as a
white crystalline mass. Subsequent charging
may convert these crystalline deposits to
metallic lead which may short the positive and
negative plates through the areas of the separators affected. These small shorts may cause
a condition of low cell voltage when the battery
is charged. For this reason battery cells should
not be allowed to stand idle in a discharged
condition.
2-13.3 Lack of Water. Water is one of the essential
chemicals of a lead-acid storage battery and
under normal conditions of operation is the
only component of the battery which is lost as
a result of charging. It should be replaced as
soon as the liquid level falls to the top of the
separators. If water is not replaced, and the
plates are exposed, the acid will reach a dangerously high concentration that may char and
disintegrate the separators and may permanently sulfate and impair the performance of
the plates. Plates cannot take full part in the
battery action unless they are completely covered by the electrolyte. Sulfuric acid must
never be added to a cell unless it is known that
acid has been spilled out or otherwise loose
from the cell.
2-13.7 Freezing of Electrolyte.
1. The electrolyte of a battery in various states of
charge will start to freeze at temperatures indicated below. The given temperatures indicate
the approximate points at which the first ice
crystals begin to appear in the solution. The
solution does not freeze solid until a lower temperature is reached. Solid freezing of the electrolyte may crack the container and damage
the positive plates.
2. A 3/4 charged automotive battery is in no danger from freezing. Keep batteries at 3/4 charge
or more, especially during winter weather.
3. Battery power decreases while the need for
engine power increases with falling temperatures.
80°F100%
32°F 66%
0°F 46%
4. Sub-zero temperatures reduce the capacity of
a fully charged battery to 30% of its normal
power and at the same time increases cranking load beyond the normal warm weather
load.
2
2-13.4 Loose Holddowns. Holddowns, if not properly
adjusted, may allow the battery to bounce
around in the battery box. This may cause the
bridges on which the elements rest to notch
the bottom of the separators and may cause
the plates to notch the bridge tops, causing a
severe disarrangement of the elements. The
bouncing of the battery may also crack or wear
the container badly and cause acid to leak.
Leaking acid corrodes terminals and cables
and results in high resistance battery connections, thereby weakening the battery’s power
and shortening its life. If holddowns are too
tight, they can distort or crack the container,
allowing loss of acid from the cells. This will
cause loss of battery capacity.
2-13.5 Battery Electrolyte Substitutes. No satisfac-
tory substitute electrolyte has been found for
the simple mixture of sulfuric acid in water. Use
no substitutes.
2-13.6 Excessive Loads. A battery should never be
used to propel the rider by the use of the starting motor with clutch engaged except in a
great emergency. This may produce extremely
high internal battery temperature and damage
the starting motor.
NOTE
The above failures do not constitute a warranty.
2-14.TESTING THE BATTERY.
2-14.1 A visual inspection of battery should be done
by checking for:
1. Broken or leaking cover.
2. Broken case.
3. Damaged post.
4. Other.
2-14.2 Batteries should be handled with care. Never
leave battery standing in a discharged position.
WARNING
Never test a battery by striking a cable across
the output terminals. An internally shorted battery could EXPLODE.
2-14.3 The hydrometer measures the state of charge.
Use of the hydrometer will also pinpoint a
2-9
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shorted cell which, in some instances, cannot
be charged or will not hold a charge. See Figure 2-9.
1. Specific gravity tests must be performed
before adding water to the battery.
2. In the event the electrolyte level is too low to
test with the hydrometer, add water and charge
before testing.
7. The inability to bring the specific gravity of any
one cell up to 1.235 after charging is also an
indication of an unserviceable battery and it
should be condemned.
8. After the recharge, let the battery stand at least
24 hours, and repeat hydrometer test on all
cells. If there is a variation of 50 points or more
between the highest and lowest cell, condemn
the battery.
2-14.4 Batteries 725-1105 and 725-1276 are 12 volt
sealed lead-acid batteries. These batteries can
be checked by using a standard DC voltmeter.
When checking the voltage, the male terminal
of the connector plug of the harness is the negative terminal. See Figure 2-10.
3. A correct specific gravity reading can be measured only when the electrolyte temperature is
80°F. If the electrolyte temperature varies from
this temperature, compensation must be made
in the reading as follows:
a. Add four gravity points (.004) for each 10°
electrolyte temperature is above 80°F.
b. Subtract .004 for each 10° below 80°F.
4. In taking the hydrometer reading, the float
must be floating freely and the eye must be
even with the liquid level to obtain accurate
readings.
5. When all cells are tested, if the specific gravity
between the highest and lowest cell varies 50
points (.050) or more, condemn the battery; it
is no longer serviceable.
6. If there is less than a 50 point variation
between the highest and lowest cell, and the
specific gravity in one or more cells is below
1.235, recharge the battery.
2-14.5 Check battery charge with voltmeter as fol-
lows:
NOTE
Check to be certain the in-line fuse in the wire
harness is OD.
1. Connect the negative lead of the voltmeter into
the male end of the plug on the wire harness.
2. Connect the positive lead of the voltmeter into
the female pin on the plug on the wire harness.
2-10
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3. A fully charged battery will register 13.0 volts
on the voltmeter
4. A battery that needs charging should read
between 11.0 and 13.0 volts.
5. If the reading is below 10.0 volts on the voltmeter, the battery probably will not accept a
charge and should be replaced.
2-15.BATTERY CHARGERS AND CHARGING.
2-15.1 Restore charge.
1. An electric current is sent through the cell in
the reverse direction to that in which the current flows when the battery is delivering current. The charging rate must be slightly higher
than the voltage. A single battery cell produces
approximately 2 volts. A 12 volt battery will
consist of six 2 volt cells. To charge a 12 volt
battery requires (.5 volts x 6 cells = 3 volts) (12
volts + 3 volts = 15 volts). When a battery is
discharged, its internal resistance is low. In this
low resistance condition, the battery will draw a
greater charging current. As the battery
becomes charged, the internal resistance
increases and the current draw will diminish.
brought too near them. A room or compartment
in which charging batteries are confined should
be ventilated. Do not bring flame or sparks
near vent openings.
WARNING
In all automotive battery cells small quantities
of hydrogen gas are given off at the negative
plates when the cells are not being charged. It
must therefore be assumed that explosive mixtures of hydrogen gas are present within the
cells at all times. A torch, match flame, lighted
cigarette or sparks from metal tools accidentally contacting the terminals could cause ignition of the gases.
WARNING
To avoid sparks, do not disturb connections
between batteries while charging: first throw
switch “off” at the charger. The possibility of
ignition of hydrogen gas by static electricity
when working on or near batteries is minimized by grounding ones self and the vehicle
to remove any static charge.
2
2. Batteries should only be tested with a hydrometer for specific gravity, or a test device that
applies a current draw to the battery while testing. A voltmeter does not give an accurate indication of battery condition, as even a partially
discharged battery will indicate correct voltage
when not under load. The normal specific gravity of a charged battery should be between
1.285 and 1.300 approximately. A discharged
battery cell has a specific gravity of 1.150
approximately.
2-15.2 Recharging is necessary when you find lights
get dim, and/or when battery is not used for
longer than one month. Charge the 12 volt battery with a 12 volt 1 amp automotive charger.
Recommended charging for 6 volt or a 12 volt
battery should not exceed 1 amp. Charge until
battery gases freely and specific gravity of
electrolyte rises to 1.265 or above.
WARNING
When charging, care must be taken to ventilate the fumes from the battery as they are
highly EXPLOSIVE. The gases issuing from a
charging battery are a mixture of hydrogen and
oxygen gases and will explode with great violence and spraying of acid if a spark or flame is
WARNING
The improper use of a booster battery to start a
rider, when the normal battery is inadequate,
presents a definite explosion hazard. To minimize this hazard the following procedures are
suggested.
CAUTION
Exceeding the recommended charging rate
can cause warping of the plates and will affect
the life of the battery.
1. When possible, use equipment with a switch in
the line connecting the booster battery to the
installed battery. Check to see that both batteries have the same voltage type: e.g., 6 volt or
12 volt.
2. If only jumper cables are available and the
booster battery is in a car, set the hand brakes,
turn off accessory switches and ignition keys
and place the gearshift or gear selector in the
neutral or park position for both vehicles. Now
proceed in exact sequence.
3. Always rock the connector clips to insure
secure grip contact.
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a. Connect one end of first cable to the termi-
nal of the discharged battery which is connected to the starter switch or solenoid
(not grounded). Note if this is the positive
or negative battery terminal.
b. Connect the other end of the first cable to
the terminal post of the booster battery
having the same marking; that is, positive
to positive or negative to negative. Most
have a negative grounded electrical system.
c. Connect the first end of the second jumper
cable to the other terminal of the booster
battery. With the other end make final connection and this is to be the rider frame of
the mower with the discharged battery as
far away as possible from the battery.
2-15.3 Charging the Battery.
1. Connect the charger to the lawn mower harness.
2. Plug the charger into a 110 volt AC wall outlet.
3. Check the charger after 15 minutes. The
charger should be warm to the touch (approximately 100°F).
WARNING
Charger could be HOT and cause burns.
c. There is no voltage present at the wall
socket.
d. The charger should be checked once more
by touch within an hour. Use caution when
touching the charger.
6. Normally, if the unit starts the first time, it is
unlikely that the wire harness is defective.
However, if the wire harness is suspect after
using the above procedures, it should be
replaced.
2-15.4 Plug-in Trickle Chargers. Different trickle
chargers are used for different batteries. The
following is a list of chargers and the rate at
which the batteries are to be charged.
Plug-In Trickle Chargers
725-0727300 ma. use on 725-1105 and 725-1276
battery
725-05071/2 amp charger, used on 725-0415
725-0579Alligator clips for 725-0507 charger to be
used when charger does not plug into the
wire harness
725-0156Old red Schauer charger. Not available.
Use 753-0220. This kit consists of:
1 725-0507 charger
1 725-0579
4. If the charger is hot, it is drawing too much current and should be disconnected immediately.
One of the following conditions exist:
a. The battery is defective.
b. The polarity of the battery connectors is
reversed.
c. There is a short in the wire harness.
5. If the charger is cold to the touch, one of the
following conditions exist:
a. The battery is not connected to the wire
harness.
b. The charger is bad. Check the output volt-
age.
It should be above 9 volts DC with the male
terminal of the charger being positive.
Charging Rates
725-0130automotive type with tapered terminals 15
amp maximum
725-0453
725-06614-5 amp maximum
725-0117
725-0726300 ma. elec. start self-propelled
725-1104lawn mowers
725-1276
725-0514motorcycle type 3 amp maximum
2-15.5 New Information Concerning Battery
Charging. It is important that new batteries are
charged according to the owner’s guide or
2-12
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Technical Handbooks Volume I, II and III. We
have found that rider and tractor batteries do
not have memories, and the capability of
recharging a low or dead battery is feasible. A
3 to 10 amp taper charger should be used;
charging time varies between 12 to 40 hours.
This charging procedure should be followed
prior to checking the specific gravity or condemning any rider or tractor battery.
Table 2-1.Specific Gravity Freezing Points
Specific Gravity Freezing Point
1.265 -75°F
1.225 -35°F
1.200 -17°F
1.150 5°F
1.100 18°F
1.050 27°F
2-16MAINTENANCE AND SERVICE.
2-16.1 Proper maintenance and service could extend
the life of a battery. The following procedures
should be taken:
3. Clean the battery and cable contact surface to
a bright metal finish whenever they are
removed. Coat the contact surfaces with mineral grease or petroleum jelly before the terminals are reconnected.
2
4. Inspect battery box and adjust holddowns.
Urge replacement if unserviceable.
5. Check electrolyte level once a month. If found
below middle of UPPER and LOWER LEVEL,
add clean drinking water to restore level.
WARNING
NEVER use ACID to refill a battery.
6. Make hydrometer or voltage test.
7. Keep exhaust tube free of kinks and obstructions.
8. Store battery with a full charge. A discharged
battery will freeze.
1. Clean battery top with a stiff brush, being careful not to scatter corrosion products. Wipe off
with a cloth wetted with ammonia or baking
soda in water. Fully wipe with a cloth with clean
water.
2. Inspect cables—urge replacement if unserviceable. Inspect the terminals posts to see
that they are not deformed or broken.
NOTE
All batteries discharge during storage.
Recharge battery every two months and before
returning to service.
9. Carefully inspect and recharge the battery at
the beginning and end of each mowing season.
2-13
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SAFETY INTERLOCK SYSTEMS
3-1. GENERAL.
3-1.1There are two basic electric wiring systems
used: one for battery start models and one for
recoil start models. All safety systems used are
based on the same principle.
3-1.2Most riders and tractors produced in 1982
were equipped with a reverse safety switch.
This safety system required the cutting deck to
be disengaged before the unit can be shifted
into reverse gear. These systems will be used
on all current production units.
3-1.3The lift and disengagement lever is used to
raise and lower the cutting deck which determines the cutting height. Pulling it all the way
back and locking it disengages the blades. The
lift and disengagement lever MUST be in the
disengaged position when starting the engine,
when shifting into reverse or if the operator
leaves the seat.
3
3-1.4All lawn and garden tractors produced after
July, 1987 were requested by ANSI (American
National Standards Institute) to have an operator present as an added safety feature. If the
operator leaves the seat with the blades or
PTO engaged, the engine will shut off. This
seat switch is a safety device, designed for
your protection. See Figure 3-1.
WARNING
NEVER attempt to bypass this operation.
3-1.5In mid 1986, safety switches were added to
most lawn and garden tractors, internally
mounted in the seat.
3-1.6On 1988 production, the location and type of
safety switch was changed on most front
engine lawn tractors. It was mounted on the
seat bracket under the seat and it will shut off
the engine with the deck engaged, with less
than 40 lbs. of weight on the safety seat.
3-1.7The 1990 riders and tractors have incorporated
a new seat safety switch. The operator must
engage the parking brake before leaving seat
or unit will stall out. This new switch will also be
present on riders and tractors with electric
PTO’s.
Figure 3-1.
3-1.8For further information regarding this section,
refer to the Technical Service Video “Safety
Interlock Systems.”
WARNING
At no time should the safety interlock system
be bypassed for consumer’s operation or convenience.
NOTE
The safety interlock system for 1991 has some
changes that may or may not retrofit prior production units.
3-2600 Series Rider Only.
1. The PTO safety switch mounting bracket was
changed for added support to 14 gauge steel.
This will retrofit 1990 production units. See Figure 3-2.
3-1
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Figure 3-2. Mounting Bracket.
2. The standard battery used in the 600 series is
725-0514 (125 cold cranking amps). This battery can now be replaced by part number 7251430 (275 cold cranking amps) by removing
the battery spring retainer to allow clearance
for the larger battery. This will not retrofit prior
production units. See Figure 3-3.
Figure 3-3. Battery With Spring Retainer.
3. Attach the steering wheel and indicator light
panel as follows:
a. Place the indicator wires through the steer-
ing bellows and place the bellows over the
steering shaft.
b. Place the five wires through the slotted
hole located towards the center of the
steering wheel hub. With the front wheels
positioned straight forward, place the
steering wheel over the steering shaft.
Secure with the cupped washer and lock
nut provided in the screwpack. See Figure
3-4.
Figure 3-4. Steering Wheel.
NOTE
The indicator wires should be positioned at the
bottom of the steering wheel (6 o’clock position).
4. Place the indicator wires through the cable tie
located on the bottom side of the steering
wheel insert. Connect the wires to the corresponding wires in the steering wheel insert.
Tighten the cable tie on the insert to securely
hold the wires in position.
5. Snap the steering wheel insert over the four
spokes making sure the indicator lights are
positioned towards the bottom.
6. Tighten the special cable tie in such a manner
so the cable tie can slide up and down the wire
harness which goes through the dash panel.
(Slide the cable tie up until it rests against the
hole on the inside of the dash panel.)
7. Turn the steering wheel fully in both directions.
Pull the wires down from the dash and slide
the cable tie down an additional 1/4 inch and
tighten the cable tie securely. While doing this
procedure the cable tie will automatically position itself on the harness to prevent damage to
the wires during normal operation.
3-2
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CAUTION
Do not cut off excess cable tie. The excess end
will help keep the harness from being drawn up
into the steering wheel and causing serious
damage to the wires.
3-2.1All Riders and Tractors.
1. The clutch safety switch has a retainer bracket
for added support. This will retrofit 1990 production units. See Figure 3-5.
Figure 3-5. Retainer Bracket.
chances of a short. This also will retrofit prior
production unit
3-2.2600, 700 and 800 Series Only. The circuit
breaker is being replaced by a standard automotive type fuse. Nonregulated electrical systems will use a 7-1/2 amp fuse. On regulated
electrical systems, a 20 amp fuse will be used.
This will not retrofit prior production units. See
Figure 3-7.
Figure 3-7. Fuse Holder.
NOTE
3
NOTE
If the clutch safety switch (part number 7253169A) is ordered, it will NOT come with the
retainer bracket or screws. To retrofit to a pre
1991 production unit, it is necessary to order
the retaining bracket (part number 179162)
and two screws (part number 710-0351).
2. The seat safety switch insulator nut plates
have been redesigned to reduce the chances
of a direct short. This will retrofit 1990 production units. See Figure 3-6.
Although this will not retrofit our prior production units, there are, however, two separate
fuses: the 7.5 amp fuse for a standard dual circuit alternating system and the 20 amp fuse for
a regulated system.
3-3.ELECTRIC START SYSTEM.
3-3.1Before the engine will crank, the key must be
turned on and both of the safety switches must
be activated. One is activated when the clutch
is depressed and one is activated when the
blade is disengaged. When this happens the
circuit will be complete between the battery
and the coil primary of the solenoid. This will
close the solenoid which will allow the starter
motor to crank the engine. The safety switches
are wired in series on the electric start models.
See Figure 3-8.
3-3.2Testing the Interlock System on the Electric
Start System.
1. Starting instructions:
Figure 3-6. Safety Switch Insulator Nut Plates.
NOTE
This boss plate goes all the way through the
two spring switches and will reduce the
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a. Disengaged the blade or PTO.
b. Depress the clutch pedal.
c. Set the throttle (and choke if separate).
3-3
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d. Turn the ignition key to the START posi-
tion.
NOTE
If the engine does not crank, use the following
procedure to check out the system. If the
engine cranks but does not start, the problem
is not with the interlock system. engaging of
the blade and the depressing of the clutch
depresses the black plunger a minimum of 1/8
inch.
3. Check the fuse or circuit breaker between the
positive terminal of the battery and the ignition
switch. If the fuse or circuit breaker is blown
the engine will not crank.
4. Check the following terminal to see that the
wires are in place.
a. The positive terminal of the battery. A large
and a small wire should be fastened
securely to this terminal. On some units
both wires are cast into one clamp.
b. The negative terminal on the battery and
the ground to the frame.
c. The ignition switch terminal.
d. The clutch safety switch.
e. The blade safety switch.
f.The solenoid terminals. A small wire is fas-
tened to the coil primary and the two larger
wires are fastened to each side.
5. Check the condition of your battery. Even if the
battery is dead you should be able to hear the
solenoid click. This would verify that the starting system is operating at least to the solenoid.
The specific gravity of the battery should be
1.265.
6. A continuity tester can be used to check the
continuity between each component of the
interlock system. Follow the instructions
packed with the continuity tester which can be
purchased at electrical shops.
Figure 3-8. Typical Electric Start System.
3-4
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WARNING
To test the interlock system further, you will be
bypassing the safety switches. Make sure that
the clutch is disengaged and the blade
engagement lever is in the disengaged position. If the clutch cannot be locked in the disengaged position, place the gear shift lever in the
neutral (N) position. When using a jumper wire
in the following tests the engine may crank
over.
NOTE
Disconnect the spark plug lead and ground it
against the engine block.
7. Use a jumper wire between the following
points:
a. The positive terminal on the battery to the
terminal on the solenoid (coil primary). If
the engine cranks, then test within this circuit to find the exact area of the problem.
See steps b and c below.
b. The positive terminal of the battery and the
S terminal on the ignition switch. If the
engine cranks, the problem is between the
battery and the ignition switch.
c. The S terminal on the ignition switch to the
coil primary terminal on the solenoid. If the
engine cranks, the problem is between the
ignition switch and the solenoid.
NOTE
Transmission lever must not be touching the
reverse spring switch and the key must be in
the ON position.
1. Disconnect the yellow wire going to the magneto on the engine.
2. Disconnect the wire attached to the spring
switch.
3. Attach one lead of a continuity tester to the
spring switch and the other lead to ground. If
there is continuity, the fiber washers could be
damaged and should be replaced.
3-3.4Testing the Solenoid on Electric Start Riders
and Tractors.
NOTE
Through examination of returned warranty
parts, we have found instances of solenoids
being replaced unnecessarily on electric start
riders.
1. The following are real solenoid problems and
require replacement of the solenoid:
a. Solenoid is stuck—Unit will start with igni-
tion key in OFF position.
b. Coil wire (inside solenoid) is bad—Sole-
noid will not function.
3
d. Jump between the two large terminals on
the solenoid.
NOTE
Only use a wire as heavy as the wire from the
solenoid to the starter with an alligator clip. If
you have current up to the coil primary terminal
of the solenoid and the starter will not crank,
however, you can crank the starter using the
jumper wire, the problem is with the solenoid.
Check the base of the solenoid to see that it
has a good ground to the frame of the unit. If it
still fails to operate, replace it.
3-3.3Testing the Safety Reverse Switch on the Elec-
tric Start Systems. If the engine can be started,
but stalls when the blade is engaged, use the
following procedure to determine if the problem
is in the reverse safety switch:
c. Bad washer (inside solenoid)—Solenoid
clicks but starter motor does not turn.
2. Other problems which can appear to be a
defective solenoid:
a. Faulty ground.
b. Defective safety switch.
c. Discharged battery.
d. Defective starter motor.
e. Blown circuit breaker.
f.Defective ignition switch.
g. Defective wire harness.
1. Coil Check:
3-5
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a. Disconnect the spark plug wire from the
spark plug.
b. Disconnect the coil wire from the solenoid.
c. Using a DVOM (in the OHMS setting)
attach the red lead to the coil connection
and the black lead to system ground.
d. The resistance reading should be about 5
ohms.
*Meter readings greater than 10 ohms or less
than 3 ohms indicates solenoid failure.
e. Remove meter leads and reconnect coil
wire.
2. Contact Check:
a. Disconnect the spark plug wire from the
spark plug.
b. Disconnect the wire AT THE STARTER
which runs to the solenoid.
c. Using a DVOM (in the OHMS setting),
attached the red lead to a contact bolt and
the black lead to the other contact bolt.
The meter should read “OPEN” circuit, or
infinity.
*A “closed” circuit indicates solenoid failure.
d. Energize the solenoid using the start
switch. WARNING: DO NOT HOLD “ON”
FOR MORE THAN 5 SECONDS AT A
TIME.
e. The meter should read “CLOSED” circuit,
or less than 10 ohms. Continued on page
3-15.
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