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DB15 INSTALLATION AND OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
The Morso DB15 may be used in smoke control areas strictly in accordance with these instructions,
when burning:
THIS APPLIANCE BECOMES
EXTREMELY HOT IN USE.
A fire-guard should be used if children or the infirm are present.
The installer is required to EXACTLY follow these instructions and to completely
comply with all local, national and international standards.
Building rules and regulations are available at www.soliftec.com
UK: Untreated wood logs,
lignite briquettes or authorised
smokeless fuels
(Exempted from s20 of the Clean
Air Act 1993)
RoI: Wood logs, smokeless fuels
or peat briquettes,
but not petroleum coke
(Control of Atmospheric
Pollution Regulations, 1970)
INSTALLING a stove is
a ‘controlled service’, the
law expects that it is either
supervised by a qualified
installer or that the building
inspector is informed. Check
with your local authority.
A certificate of installation
must be issued by building
control or a competent person
scheme.
ASBESTOS Your stove does
not contain asbestos, but take
care to avoid disturbing
asbestos in an old installation.
WEIGHT Your stove is heavy
(187kg) take great care
when moving it and ensure
that the intended fireplace
can support the weightconsider fitting a load
distributing plate.
YOUR FIREPLACE Stoves
become VERY hot, the setting
must be made entirely of
durable non-combustable
materials. take care to
observe the safe distances to
combustibles shown on the
back page.
YOUR CHIMNEY
Specific rules apply where
the flue passes through
timber, thatch or other
vulnerable materials - take
specialist advice. It is not
possible to access the
chimney for cleaning through
the stove, inspection and
sweeping access must be
provided. The chimney must:
• Generate a draught in use
of at least 12Pa (0.05ins wg)
• Be capable of withstanding
the temperatures generated.
• Be absolutely incapable
of leaking fumes into
the dwelling
Several different forms of
chimney may be suitable,
but they will commonly need
to be:
• At least 5m high.
• Terminating at least 1m
above any roof ridge.
• Have an internal crosssection equivalent to not
less than 150mm dia and
not more than 0.14m²
(eg 375 x 375mm)
• Be free from even the slightest
crack or source of leakage.
• Have no bends sharper
than 45º or comply with
BS 15 287.
• Be swept and entirely free
of obstructions
• Be connected only to this
one appliance.
• Be of thick masonry or
otherwise adequately
insulated.
• Conform to local and
national building
regulations.
AIR SUPPLY: The stove
needs a fresh air supply
complying with the
requirements of building
regulations to operate
correctly. Where needed,
it is wise to fit an outside
vent as close to the fire as
possible. Correctly sited
and sized, air will only
move between the vent
and the stove, preventing
unpleasant draughts.
An extractor fan, or another
flue-using appliance, or an
open fireplace or chimney,
in the same building,
may remove this air.
ON THE PURCHASE
OF YOUR MORSØ DB15
PLEASE READ THESE
INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY
C
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TO FIND A QUALIFIED INSTALLER, FUEL SUPPLIER or CHIMNEY SWEEP, CONTACT:
UK:
HETAS Ltd
Orchard Business Centre
Stoke Orchard, Cheltenham
Gloucestershire GL52 7RZ
www.hetas.co.uk
RoI:
Irish Nationwide Fireplace Organisation,
162 Capel Street,
Dublin 1
Tel:01-801-5959
www.fireplace.ie
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DB15 INSTALLATION AND OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
DB15 INSTALLATION AND OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
HOW THE DB15 WORKS
The Morsø DB15 is a ‘downburn’
stove where the waste gases
pass down through the fire bed
and into the ’afterburn’ chamber
(A) reaching temperatures
of 1000ºC at the back where
the smoke is burned away.
This system gives very clean
combustion and extremely
high efficiency on a wide range
of fuels.
LIGHTING If lighting after a
period of non-use, do check
that the flueways and chimney
are completely clear. Place
two or three firelighters close
together, or screwed-up paper
covered with dry kindling, at the
back of the grate and light them.
When they are burning well
gently fill the fire with dry fuel.
Downburn stoves ignite very
quickly, but they begin to burn
at the back, so the full flame
may not be apparent for a
few minutes.
STOKING Don’t fill to the
point where fuel touches roof
of the stove.
CONTROL Correctly installed
(see page 10) this stove will
control itself for minimum
fuel consumption. The manual
control on the top of the
door overrides the automatic
control. It can be helpfully
used when first lighting or
refuelling, but keep it shut,
or nearly so, in normal use.
The Thermostat Dial on
the lower right of the stove
controls a device which senses
the temperature of water in
the boiler and automatically
allows air in to make the fire
burn more or less fiercely,
so that water always leaves
the boiler at about 50ºC on the
lowest setting to about 90ºC
at the highest. Once you have
found the most appropriate
setting for your house usually about midway -
it shouldn’t be necessary to
adjust it again. To adjust
the house temperature, adjust
the radiator thermostats
(if fitted) or your central room
thermostat. These controls
will then automatically limit
or allow the flow of water
through the boiler, which will
adjust itself accordingly. Your
fire will die down or flare up
and the central heating pump
go on or off as needed in
response to the temperature
of rooms and water. When you
adjust the central controls,
wait an hour or two for the
adjustment to ‘stabilise’ controls are deliberately made
to react slowly to prevent rapid
on-off-on-off cycling.
EMPTYING ASHES If you’re
using mineral fuels like anthracite
or manufactured smokeless
fuels - then empty the ash
regularly, if it builds up it will
severely damage the grates.
If you mainly use wood, then
do the opposite, let the ash and
charcoal build up. To empty
the ash agitate the firebed
by using the tool to operate
the riddling mechanism on
the right-hand side. Use the
ashpan tool to remove the
ashpan. Remember to let ash
cool before disposing in plastic
sacks or dustbins. There is
no need to empty every last
speck, but ash from mineral
fuels (coal etc) should never
be allowed to build up so that
it comes into contact with the
underside of the grate
EXTENDED BURNING Allow
the fire to burn down to a low,
hot firebed. Empty the ash,
fully fill with hard fuel such
as anthracite and your stove
can burn for up to twelve
hours without attention.
KEEPING THE WINDOW CLEAN
Reduce the risk of staining by
using only very dry fuel. Severe
stains can be removed when
cold with Morsø glass cleaner.
DO NOT use proprietary solventbased stove window cleaners.
The window is not glass but a
transparent ceramic, when
using some solid fuels it may
develop tiny hairline surface
cracks, these are harmless,
and a known characteristic of
some mineral fuels.
OPENING THE DOOR
This stove is designed to be
operated only with the door
closed. Open the door very slowly
to minimise fume emission and
prevent hot fuel falling out.
SUMMER SHUT DOWN
Before a long period of non-use,
empty fuel and ash and leave
all the air controls open and the
door slightly ajar to allow ventilation
to reduce condensation.
GUARD AGAINST CONDENSATION!
Solid fuels contain water which can condense on cool boiler faces to cause
rapid corrosion and failure. Always fit a device such as a low-level thermostat to
minimise cool water circulating through the boiler. ALLOW FOR OVERHEATING!
This boiler has automatic control, but there must be some way of dissipating
surplus heat - fit a high-level thermostat to override controls and run the central
heating if there is risk of boiling. Follow the rules given in this instruction booklet.
An old-fashioned ‘heat leak’ radiator will not suffice.
LIVING WITH YOUR STOVE Every fuel, chimney and condition of use is different.
Only experience will show which are the best settings for you.
FITTING Fit the flue collar to the top of the stove and seal to the chimney using a short length
of uninsulated pipe. Two possible ways of doing this are shown below.
Whichever method is used it is imperative that the route for gases from the stove to
the chimney terminal is completely air-tight; even the tiniest gap or crack can spoil the
updraught. Seal all joins with fireproof cement and/or heatproof rope.
HEATING SYSTEM DESIGN This appliance is for use with an open-vented water heating circuit
at a maximum pressure of 2 Bar, equivalent to a static head of 18 metres. Suggested circuit
designs are given on page 10 & 11.
IMPORTANT! CHECK THE INSTALLATION!
Once installed check that:
1) The route for gases from the stove to the chimney terminal is completely airtight,
unobstructed and able to be swept. (access hatches may be required.)
2) The entire fireplace construction is of durable non-combustable materials
3) The flue presents a draught in use of at least 12Pa
5) A CO alarm is fitted
6) Flue data plate is completed and fixed in the fireplace recess or utility cupboard
7) The water system can never exceed 2 Bar pressure, has provision to dissipate or store
surplus heat, can accommodate boiling, and has means to minimise the circulation of cool
water through the boiler
8) Light stove and ensure it burns controllably and does not emit fumes to the room
9) Demonstrate the operation of the stove to the householder
LIVING WITH YOUR STOVE
Every fuel, chimney and condition of use is different. Only
experience will show which are the best settings for you.
HOW THE DB15 WORKS: The Morso DB15 is a 'downburn' stove
where the waste gases pass down through the hot fire and into an
'afterburn' chamber (A) at the back where even smoke is burned
away. This system gives very clean combustion and extremely
high efficiency on a wide range of fuels.
LIGHTING If lighting after a period of non-use, do check that the
flueways and chimney are completely clear. Empty the ashes if
need be. Place two or three firelighters close together, or screwed-
up paper covered with dry sticks, at the back of the grate and light
them. When they are burning well
gently fill the fire with dry fuel.
Downburn stoves ignite very
quickly, but they begin to burn at
the back, so the full flame may not
be apparent for a few minutes.
FILLING: (C) Don't fill to the point
where fuel touches roof of the
stove.
CONTROL. Correctly installed
(see separate sheet) this stove
will control itself f or minimum fuel
consumption.
The manual control on the top of
the door overrides the automatic
control. It can be helpfully used
fuel and ash and leave all the air controls open to allow ventilation
to reduce condensation.
FUELS
The Morso DB15 is one of very few stoves which can burn almost
any solid fuel. But there is no 'perfect' fuel, so we strongly
recommend that you try a selection of fuels (or mixtures) to find
which suits you best. Do avoid dusty materials like sawdust, they
can burn far to violently.
SMOKE CONTROL: In certain
areas special rules apply to
reduce smoke nuisance. Check
with your local authority.
WOOD only emits as much
carbon to the atmosphere as the
tree took in when growing, so wood is considered the 'carbon
neutral' fuel. When wood is cut down its cells are full of water.
Burning such wet or 'green' wood wastes heat in making steam
and produces flammable, acidic tars which will cling to, and rapidly
damage, your stove and chimney. Split logs will typically take two
years to become reasonably dry, round logs very much longer.
Cracks in the ends, a hollow sound when tapped and bark falling
away are all signs that a log may be ready for use. The fine, white
residue produced when wood burns is not ash, but the remains of
cell walls which can burn if kept hot enough, so don't de-ash the
fire until absolutely necessary when using wood.
For best performance, and always for low smoke emission:
●Split logs lengthways for drying
●Use logs no bigger than about 100mm x 250mm
fuel and ash and leave all the air controls open to allow ventilation
to reduce condensation.
FUELS
The Morso DB15 is one of very few stoves which can burn almost
any solid fuel. But there is no 'perfect' fuel, so we strongly
recommend that you try a selection of fuels (or mixtures) to find
which suits you best. Do avoid dusty materials like sawdust, they
can burn far to violently.
SMOKE CONTROL: In certain
areas special rules apply to
reduce smoke nuisance. Check
with your local authority.
WOOD only emits as much
carbon to the atmosphere as the
tree took in when growing, so wood is considered the 'carbon
neutral' fuel. When wood is cut down its cells are full of water.
Burning such wet or 'green' wood wastes heat in making steam
and produces flammable, acidic tars which will cling to, and rapidly
damage, your stove and chimney. Split logs will typically take two
years to become reasonably dry, round logs very much longer.
Cracks in the ends, a hollow sound when tapped and bark falling
away are all signs that a log may be ready for use. The fine, white
residue produced when wood burns is not ash, but the remains of
cell walls which can burn if kept hot enough, so don't de-ash the
fire until absolutely necessary when using wood.
For best performance, and always for low smoke emission:
●Split logs lengthways for drying
●Use logs no bigger than about 100mm x 250mm
●Ensure logs are absolutely dry (less than 20% moisture)
●Fill the stove loosely, so air can circulate between logs.
●Fill 'little and often'
●When first lighting, or reviving a fire from embers, use only very
small, thin, dry, sticks.
●Keep a constant, deep, bed of charcoal and wood ash beneath
the burning logs. This may need several firings to build up.
JOINERY WASTE Dry wood offcuts will burn well, but don't expect
softwood waste to burn as cleanly or for as long as hardwood logs.
PEAT: Sod turf must be thoroughly dry.
LIGNITE or BROWN COAL is a natural mineral, between peat
and coal. It lights easily and burns well, but produces much ash.
BITUMINOUS COAL (Sold as 'Housecoal' or 'Polish') (does
NOT burn smokelessly, and is not permitted in smoke control
areas of the UK and RoI) is raw, natural coal containing a high
proportion of bitumen. The DB15 is one of very few stoves which
control the system,
not the controls on
150mm dia and not more than 0.14m² (eg 375 x 375mm)
●Be free from even the slightest crack or source of leakage.
●Have no bends sharper than 45º.
●Be swept and entirely free of obstructions
●Be connected only to this one appliance.
●Be of thick masonry or otherwise adequately insulated.
●Conform to local building regulations.
Special rules apply where the flue passes through timber, thatch or
other vulnerable materials- take specialist advice.
It is not possible to access the chimney for cleaning through the
fire, fit hatches to provide access.
YOUR FIREPLACE: Stoves become VERY hot, the setting must
be made entirely of durable fireproof materials. take care to
observe the safe distances to combustibles shown on the front
page.
AIR SUPPLY: Your stove needs fresh air from outside to breathe -
the air inlets should equ al about 550mm² for each kW of nominal
output.
This degree of air can often be provided by leakage around door
frames etc, especially in older buildings. It must be a matter for the
judgement of the installer as to whether an extra permanent air
vent is required. Where is needed, it is wise to fit an outside vent
as close to the fire as possible. Correctly sited and sized, air will
only move between the vent and the stove, preventing unpleasant
draughts.
An extractor fan, or another fuel-using appliance, or an open
fireplace or chimney, in the same building, can remove this air.
Whichever method is used it is imperative that the route for
gases from the stove to the chimney terminal is completely
air-tight; even the tiniest gap or crack can spoil the updraught.
Seal all joins with fireproof cement and/or heatproof rope.
Adjusting the thermostat: Check the thermostat on the
side of the stove before fitting! With the fire cold, the
Building rules and regulations are available at www.soliftec.com
INSTALLING a stove is a 'controlled service', the law expects that
it is either supervised by a qualified installer or that the building
inspector is informed. Check with your local authority.
ASBESTOS: Your stove does not contain asbestos, but take care
to avoid disturbing asbestos in an old installation.
WEIGHT: Your stove is heavy (182kg) take great care when
moving it and ensure that the intended fireplace can support the
weight- consider fitting a load distributing plate.
YOUR CHIMNEY, by becoming warm, makes the gas inside it
rise, pulling fresh air into the stove to make it work. It must:
●Generate a draught in use of at least 12Pa (0.05ins wg)
●Be capable of withstanding the temperatures generated.
●Be absolutely incapable of leaking fumes into the dwelling
Several different forms of chimney may be suitable, but they will
commonly need to be:
●At least 5m high.
●Terminating at least 1m above any roof ridge.
●Have an internal cross-section equivalent to not less than
150mm dia and not more than 0.14m² (eg 375 x 375mm)
●Be free from even the slightest crack or source of leakage.
●Have no bends sharper than 45º.
●Be swept and entirely free of obstructions
●Be connected only to this one appliance.
●Be of thick masonry or otherwise adequately insulated.
●Conform to local building regulations.
Special rules apply where the flue passes through timber, thatch or
other vulnerable materials- take specialist advice.
It is not possible to access the chimney for cleaning through the
fire, fit hatches to provide access.
YOUR FIREPLACE: Stoves become VERY hot, the setting must
be made entirely of durable fireproof materials. take care to
observe the safe distances to combustibles shown on the front
page.
AIR SUPPLY: Your stove needs fresh air from outside to breathe -
the air inlets should equ al about 550mm² for each kW of nominal
output.
This degree of air can often be provided by leakage around door
frames etc, especially in older buildings. It must be a matter for the
judgement of the installer as to whether an extra permanent air
vent is required. Where is needed, it is wise to fit an outside vent
as close to the fire as possible. Correctly sited and sized, air will
only move between the vent and the stove, preventing unpleasant
draughts.
An extractor fan, or another fuel-using appliance, or an open
fireplace or chimney, in the same building, can remove this air.
FITTING
Fasten the flue outlet to the top of the stove and seal to the chimney using a short (up to about 0.5m) length of uninsulated pipe. Two
possible ways of doing this are shown.
Whichever method is used it is imperative that the route for
gases from the stove to the chimney terminal is completely
air-tight; even the tiniest gap or crack can spoil the updraught.
Seal all joins with fireproof cement and/or heatproof rope.
Adjusting the thermostat: Check the thermostat on the
side of the stove before fitting! With the fire cold, the
THIS APPLIANCE BECOMES EXTREMELY HOT
AND CAN PRODUCE POISONOUS GASES.
A fire-guard should be used if children or the infirm are
present. The installer is required to EXACTLY follow
these instructions and to completely comply with all
local, national and international standards.
A register plate
of at least 1.5mm
thick rust protective
steel