Morso DB15 Installation And Operating Instructions Manual

HIGH-EFFICIENCY - MULTI SOLID FUEL
CENTRAL-HEATING STOVE WITH AUTOMATIC CONTROL
ISSUED - 10/09/2013 (456)
PLEASE LEAVE THIS DOCUMENT WITH THE HOUSEHOLDER
DB15
INSTALLATION AND OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
DB15 INSTALLATION AND OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
The Morso DB15 may be used in smoke control areas strictly in accordance with these instructions, when burning:
THIS APPLIANCE BECOMES
EXTREMELY HOT IN USE.
A fire-guard should be used if children or the infirm are present.
The installer is required to EXACTLY follow these instructions and to completely
comply with all local, national and international standards.
Building rules and regulations are available at www.soliftec.com
UK: Untreated wood logs,
lignite briquettes or authorised smokeless fuels (Exempted from s20 of the Clean Air Act 1993)
RoI: Wood logs, smokeless fuels
or peat briquettes, but not petroleum coke (Control of Atmospheric Pollution Regulations, 1970)
INSTALLING a stove is a ‘controlled service’, the law expects that it is either supervised by a qualified installer or that the building inspector is informed. Check with your local authority. A certificate of installation must be issued by building control or a competent person scheme.
ASBESTOS Your stove does not contain asbestos, but take care to avoid disturbing asbestos in an old installation.
WEIGHT Your stove is heavy (187kg) take great care when moving it and ensure that the intended fireplace can support the weight­consider fitting a load distributing plate.
YOUR FIREPLACE Stoves become VERY hot, the setting must be made entirely of durable non-combustable materials. take care to observe the safe distances to combustibles shown on the back page.
YOUR CHIMNEY Specific rules apply where the flue passes through timber, thatch or other vulnerable materials - take specialist advice. It is not possible to access the chimney for cleaning through the stove, inspection and sweeping access must be provided. The chimney must:
• Generate a draught in use of at least 12Pa (0.05ins wg)
• Be capable of withstanding the temperatures generated.
• Be absolutely incapable of leaking fumes into the dwelling
Several different forms of chimney may be suitable, but they will commonly need to be:
• At least 5m high.
• Terminating at least 1m above any roof ridge.
• Have an internal cross­section equivalent to not less than 150mm dia and not more than 0.14m² (eg 375 x 375mm)
• Be free from even the slightest crack or source of leakage.
• Have no bends sharper than 45º or comply with BS 15 287.
• Be swept and entirely free of obstructions
• Be connected only to this one appliance.
• Be of thick masonry or otherwise adequately insulated.
• Conform to local and national building regulations.
AIR SUPPLY: The stove needs a fresh air supply complying with the requirements of building regulations to operate correctly. Where needed, it is wise to fit an outside vent as close to the fire as possible. Correctly sited and sized, air will only move between the vent and the stove, preventing unpleasant draughts.
An extractor fan, or another flue-using appliance, or an open fireplace or chimney, in the same building, may remove this air.
ON THE PURCHASE
OF YOUR MORSØ DB15
PLEASE READ THESE
INSTRUCTIONS CAREFULLY
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TO FIND A QUALIFIED INSTALLER, FUEL SUPPLIER or CHIMNEY SWEEP, CONTACT:
UK: HETAS Ltd Orchard Business Centre Stoke Orchard, Cheltenham Gloucestershire GL52 7RZ www.hetas.co.uk
RoI:
Irish Nationwide Fireplace Organisation, 162 Capel Street, Dublin 1 Tel:01-801-5959 www.fireplace.ie
DB15 INSTALLATION AND OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
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DB15 INSTALLATION AND OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS
HOW THE DB15 WORKS
The Morsø DB15 is a ‘downburn’ stove where the waste gases pass down through the fire bed and into the ’afterburn’ chamber (A) reaching temperatures of 1000ºC at the back where the smoke is burned away. This system gives very clean combustion and extremely high efficiency on a wide range of fuels.
LIGHTING If lighting after a period of non-use, do check that the flueways and chimney are completely clear. Place two or three firelighters close together, or screwed-up paper covered with dry kindling, at the back of the grate and light them. When they are burning well gently fill the fire with dry fuel. Downburn stoves ignite very quickly, but they begin to burn at the back, so the full flame may not be apparent for a few minutes.
STOKING Don’t fill to the point where fuel touches roof of the stove.
CONTROL Correctly installed (see page 10) this stove will control itself for minimum fuel consumption. The manual control on the top of the door overrides the automatic control. It can be helpfully used when first lighting or
refuelling, but keep it shut, or nearly so, in normal use. The Thermostat Dial on the lower right of the stove controls a device which senses the temperature of water in the boiler and automatically allows air in to make the fire burn more or less fiercely, so that water always leaves the boiler at about 50ºC on the lowest setting to about 90ºC at the highest. Once you have found the most appropriate setting for your house ­usually about midway - it shouldn’t be necessary to adjust it again. To adjust the house temperature, adjust the radiator thermostats (if fitted) or your central room thermostat. These controls will then automatically limit or allow the flow of water through the boiler, which will adjust itself accordingly. Your fire will die down or flare up and the central heating pump go on or off as needed in response to the temperature of rooms and water. When you adjust the central controls, wait an hour or two for the adjustment to ‘stabilise’ ­controls are deliberately made to react slowly to prevent rapid on-off-on-off cycling.
EMPTYING ASHES If you’re using mineral fuels like anthracite or manufactured smokeless fuels - then empty the ash regularly, if it builds up it will severely damage the grates. If you mainly use wood, then do the opposite, let the ash and charcoal build up. To empty the ash agitate the firebed
by using the tool to operate the riddling mechanism on the right-hand side. Use the ashpan tool to remove the ashpan. Remember to let ash cool before disposing in plastic sacks or dustbins. There is no need to empty every last speck, but ash from mineral fuels (coal etc) should never be allowed to build up so that it comes into contact with the underside of the grate
EXTENDED BURNING Allow the fire to burn down to a low, hot firebed. Empty the ash, fully fill with hard fuel such as anthracite and your stove can burn for up to twelve hours without attention.
KEEPING THE WINDOW CLEAN Reduce the risk of staining by using only very dry fuel. Severe stains can be removed when cold with Morsø glass cleaner. DO NOT use proprietary solvent­based stove window cleaners. The window is not glass but a transparent ceramic, when using some solid fuels it may develop tiny hairline surface cracks, these are harmless, and a known characteristic of some mineral fuels.
OPENING THE DOOR This stove is designed to be operated only with the door closed. Open the door very slowly to minimise fume emission and prevent hot fuel falling out.
SUMMER SHUT DOWN Before a long period of non-use, empty fuel and ash and leave all the air controls open and the door slightly ajar to allow ventilation to reduce condensation.
GUARD AGAINST CONDENSATION!
Solid fuels contain water which can condense on cool boiler faces to cause
rapid corrosion and failure. Always fit a device such as a low-level thermostat to
minimise cool water circulating through the boiler. ALLOW FOR OVERHEATING!
This boiler has automatic control, but there must be some way of dissipating
surplus heat - fit a high-level thermostat to override controls and run the central
heating if there is risk of boiling. Follow the rules given in this instruction booklet.
An old-fashioned ‘heat leak’ radiator will not suffice.
LIVING WITH YOUR STOVE Every fuel, chimney and condition of use is different. Only experience will show which are the best settings for you.
FITTING Fit the flue collar to the top of the stove and seal to the chimney using a short length of uninsulated pipe. Two possible ways of doing this are shown below.
Whichever method is used it is imperative that the route for gases from the stove to the chimney terminal is completely air-tight; even the tiniest gap or crack can spoil the updraught. Seal all joins with fireproof cement and/or heatproof rope.
HEATING SYSTEM DESIGN This appliance is for use with an open-vented water heating circuit at a maximum pressure of 2 Bar, equivalent to a static head of 18 metres. Suggested circuit designs are given on page 10 & 11.
IMPORTANT! CHECK THE INSTALLATION! Once installed check that:
1) The route for gases from the stove to the chimney terminal is completely airtight, unobstructed and able to be swept. (access hatches may be required.)
2) The entire fireplace construction is of durable non-combustable materials
3) The flue presents a draught in use of at least 12Pa
5) A CO alarm is fitted
6) Flue data plate is completed and fixed in the fireplace recess or utility cupboard
7) The water system can never exceed 2 Bar pressure, has provision to dissipate or store surplus heat, can accommodate boiling, and has means to minimise the circulation of cool water through the boiler
8) Light stove and ensure it burns controllably and does not emit fumes to the room
9) Demonstrate the operation of the stove to the householder
LIVING WITH YOUR STOVE
Every fuel, chimney and condition of use is different. Only experience will show which are the best settings for you.
HOW THE DB15 WORKS: The Morso DB15 is a 'downburn' stove where the waste gases pass down through the hot fire and into an 'afterburn' chamber (A) at the back where even smoke is burned away. This system gives very clean combustion and extremely high efficiency on a wide range of fuels. LIGHTING If lighting after a period of non-use, do check that the flueways and chimney are completely clear. Empty the ashes if need be. Place two or three firelighters close together, or screwed- up paper covered with dry sticks, at the back of the grate and light
them. When they are burning well gently fill the fire with dry fuel. Downburn stoves ignite very quickly, but they begin to burn at the back, so the full flame may not be apparent for a few minutes. FILLING: (C) Don't fill to the point where fuel touches roof of the stove. CONTROL. Correctly installed (see separate sheet) this stove will control itself f or minimum fuel consumption. The manual control on the top of the door overrides the automatic control. It can be helpfully used
fuel and ash and leave all the air controls open to allow ventilation to reduce condensation.
FUELS
The Morso DB15 is one of very few stoves which can burn almost any solid fuel. But there is no 'perfect' fuel, so we strongly recommend that you try a selection of fuels (or mixtures) to find which suits you best. Do avoid dusty materials like sawdust, they can burn far to violently.
SMOKE CONTROL: In certain areas special rules apply to reduce smoke nuisance. Check with your local authority. WOOD only emits as much carbon to the atmosphere as the tree took in when growing, so wood is considered the 'carbon neutral' fuel. When wood is cut down its cells are full of water. Burning such wet or 'green' wood wastes heat in making steam and produces flammable, acidic tars which will cling to, and rapidly damage, your stove and chimney. Split logs will typically take two years to become reasonably dry, round logs very much longer. Cracks in the ends, a hollow sound when tapped and bark falling away are all signs that a log may be ready for use. The fine, white residue produced when wood burns is not ash, but the remains of cell walls which can burn if kept hot enough, so don't de-ash the fire until absolutely necessary when using wood. For best performance, and always for low smoke emission:
Split logs lengthways for drying
Use logs no bigger than about 100mm x 250mm
fuel and ash and leave all the air controls open to allow ventilation to reduce condensation.
FUELS
The Morso DB15 is one of very few stoves which can burn almost any solid fuel. But there is no 'perfect' fuel, so we strongly recommend that you try a selection of fuels (or mixtures) to find which suits you best. Do avoid dusty materials like sawdust, they can burn far to violently.
SMOKE CONTROL: In certain areas special rules apply to reduce smoke nuisance. Check with your local authority. WOOD only emits as much carbon to the atmosphere as the tree took in when growing, so wood is considered the 'carbon neutral' fuel. When wood is cut down its cells are full of water. Burning such wet or 'green' wood wastes heat in making steam and produces flammable, acidic tars which will cling to, and rapidly damage, your stove and chimney. Split logs will typically take two years to become reasonably dry, round logs very much longer. Cracks in the ends, a hollow sound when tapped and bark falling away are all signs that a log may be ready for use. The fine, white residue produced when wood burns is not ash, but the remains of cell walls which can burn if kept hot enough, so don't de-ash the fire until absolutely necessary when using wood. For best performance, and always for low smoke emission:
Split logs lengthways for drying
Use logs no bigger than about 100mm x 250mm
Ensure logs are absolutely dry (less than 20% moisture)
Fill the stove loosely, so air can circulate between logs.
Fill 'little and often'
When first lighting, or reviving a fire from embers, use only very small, thin, dry, sticks.
Keep a constant, deep, bed of charcoal and wood ash beneath the burning logs. This may need several firings to build up.
JOINERY WASTE Dry wood offcuts will burn well, but don't expect softwood waste to burn as cleanly or for as long as hardwood logs.
PEAT: Sod turf must be thoroughly dry. LIGNITE or BROWN COAL is a natural mineral, between peat
and coal. It lights easily and burns well, but produces much ash. BITUMINOUS COAL (Sold as 'Housecoal' or 'Polish') (does NOT burn smokelessly, and is not permitted in smoke control areas of the UK and RoI) is raw, natural coal containing a high proportion of bitumen. The DB15 is one of very few stoves which
Use radiator or
room thermostats to
control the system, not the controls on
the stove
150mm dia and not more than 0.14m² (eg 375 x 375mm)
Be free from even the slightest crack or source of leakage.
Have no bends sharper than 45º.
Be swept and entirely free of obstructions
Be connected only to this one appliance.
Be of thick masonry or otherwise adequately insulated.
Conform to local building regulations. Special rules apply where the flue passes through timber, thatch or other vulnerable materials- take specialist advice. It is not possible to access the chimney for cleaning through the fire, fit hatches to provide access. YOUR FIREPLACE: Stoves become VERY hot, the setting must be made entirely of durable fireproof materials. take care to observe the safe distances to combustibles shown on the front page. AIR SUPPLY: Your stove needs fresh air from outside to breathe - the air inlets should equ al about 550mm² for each kW of nominal output. This degree of air can often be provided by leakage around door frames etc, especially in older buildings. It must be a matter for the judgement of the installer as to whether an extra permanent air vent is required. Where is needed, it is wise to fit an outside vent as close to the fire as possible. Correctly sited and sized, air will only move between the vent and the stove, preventing unpleasant draughts. An extractor fan, or another fuel-using appliance, or an open fireplace or chimney, in the same building, can remove this air.
Whichever method is used it is imperative that the route for gases from the stove to the chimney terminal is completely air-tight; even the tiniest gap or crack can spoil the updraught. Seal all joins with fireproof cement and/or heatproof rope.
Adjusting the thermostat: Check the thermostat on the side of the stove before fitting! With the fire cold, the
Building rules and regulations are available at www.soliftec.com
INSTALLING a stove is a 'controlled service', the law expects that it is either supervised by a qualified installer or that the building inspector is informed. Check with your local authority. ASBESTOS: Your stove does not contain asbestos, but take care to avoid disturbing asbestos in an old installation. WEIGHT: Your stove is heavy (182kg) take great care when moving it and ensure that the intended fireplace can support the weight- consider fitting a load distributing plate. YOUR CHIMNEY, by becoming warm, makes the gas inside it rise, pulling fresh air into the stove to make it work. It must:
Generate a draught in use of at least 12Pa (0.05ins wg)
Be capable of withstanding the temperatures generated.
Be absolutely incapable of leaking fumes into the dwelling Several different forms of chimney may be suitable, but they will commonly need to be:
At least 5m high.
Terminating at least 1m above any roof ridge.
Have an internal cross-section equivalent to not less than
150mm dia and not more than 0.14m² (eg 375 x 375mm)
Be free from even the slightest crack or source of leakage.
Have no bends sharper than 45º.
Be swept and entirely free of obstructions
Be connected only to this one appliance.
Be of thick masonry or otherwise adequately insulated.
Conform to local building regulations. Special rules apply where the flue passes through timber, thatch or other vulnerable materials- take specialist advice. It is not possible to access the chimney for cleaning through the fire, fit hatches to provide access. YOUR FIREPLACE: Stoves become VERY hot, the setting must be made entirely of durable fireproof materials. take care to observe the safe distances to combustibles shown on the front page. AIR SUPPLY: Your stove needs fresh air from outside to breathe - the air inlets should equ al about 550mm² for each kW of nominal output. This degree of air can often be provided by leakage around door frames etc, especially in older buildings. It must be a matter for the judgement of the installer as to whether an extra permanent air vent is required. Where is needed, it is wise to fit an outside vent as close to the fire as possible. Correctly sited and sized, air will only move between the vent and the stove, preventing unpleasant draughts. An extractor fan, or another fuel-using appliance, or an open fireplace or chimney, in the same building, can remove this air.
FITTING
Fasten the flue outlet to the top of the stove and seal to the chimney using a short (up to about 0.5m) length of uninsulated pipe. Two possible ways of doing this are shown.
Whichever method is used it is imperative that the route for gases from the stove to the chimney terminal is completely air-tight; even the tiniest gap or crack can spoil the updraught. Seal all joins with fireproof cement and/or heatproof rope.
Adjusting the thermostat: Check the thermostat on the side of the stove before fitting! With the fire cold, the
THIS APPLIANCE BECOMES EXTREMELY HOT
AND CAN PRODUCE POISONOUS GASES.
A fire-guard should be used if children or the infirm are
present. The installer is required to EXACTLY follow these instructions and to completely comply with all
local, national and international standards.
A register plate of at least 1.5mm thick rust protective steel
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