A marine power product is a combination of many machined, honed, polished and lapped surfaces with tolerances that are measured in the ten thousands of an
inch./mm When any product component is serviced, care
and cleanliness are important. Throughout this manual, it
should be understood that proper cleaning, and protection
of machined surfaces and friction areas is a part of the repair procedure. This is considered standard shop practice
even if not specifically stated.
Whenever components are removed for service, they
should be retained in order. At the time of installation, they
should be installed in the same locations and with the same
mating surfaces as when removed.
Before raising or removing and outboard engine from a
boat, the following precautions should be adhered to:
(1) Check that flywheel is secured to end of crankshaft with
a locknut and lifting eye is threaded into flywheel a minimum of 5 turns.
(2) Connect a hoist of suitable strength to the lifting eye.
In addition, personnel should not work on or under an out-
board which is suspended. Outboards should be attached
to work stands, or lowered to ground as soon as possible.
We reserve the right to make changes to this manual without prior notification.
Refer to dealer service bulletins for other pertinent information concerning the products described in this manual.
Section1- General Information & Specifications
Section2- Electrical & Ignition
Part A - Ignition System
Part B - Battery, Charging System &
Starting System
Part C - T iming/Synchronizing &
Adjusting
Part D - Wiring Diagrams
Section3- Fuel Systems
Part A - Carburetion
Part B - Fuel Pump
Part C - Fuel Enrichment
Part D - Oil Injection
Section4- Powerhead
Section5- Mid-Section
Part A - Clamp/Swivel Brackets and
Driveshaft Housing
Part B - Power Trim (Design I)
Part C - Power Trim (Design II)
Part D - Power Trim (Design III)
Part E - Power Trim (Design IV)
Part F - Manual Tilt (Design I, II, III)
Part G - Manual Tilt (Design IV)
Section6- Lower Unit
Part A - Standard Gear Housing
Part B - 60 Big Foot, 60 SeaPro &
Marathon Gear Housing
Part C - Jet Drive
Section7- Outboard Installation/
Attachments
Part A - Ride-Guide Steering -
Throttle/Shift Cables &
Electrical Connections
Part B - Tiller Handle and Co-Pilot
Part C - Rewind Starter
ii
90-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996
Notice
Throughout this publication, “Dangers”, “Warnings” and
“Cautions” (accompanied by the International HAZARD
Symbol) are used to alert the mechanic to special instructions concerning a particular service or operation that
may be hazardous if performed incorrectly or carelessly.
OBSERVE THEM CAREFULLY!
These “Safety Alerts” alone cannot eliminate the hazards
that they signal. Strict compliance to these special instructions when performing the service, plus “Common Sense”
operation, are major accident prevention measures.
! DANGER
DANGER - Immediate hazards which WILL result in severe personal injury or death.
! WARNING
WARNING - Hazards or unsafe practices which COULD
result in severe personal injury or death.
!
Hazards or unsafe practices which could result in minor personal injury or product or property damage.
!
CAUTION
We could not possibly know of and advise the service trade
of all conceivable procedures by which a service might be
performed and of the possible hazards and/or results of
each method. We have not undertaken any such wide evaluation. Therefore, anyone who uses a service procedure
and/or tool, which is not recommended by the manufacturer, first must completely satisfy himself that neither his nor
the products safety will be endangered by the service procedure selected.
All information, illustrations and specifications contained in
this manual are based on the latest product information
available at the time of publication. As required, revisions
to this manual will be sent to all dealers contracted by us
to sell and/or service these products.
It should be kept in mind, while working on the product, that
the electrical system and ignition system are capable of violent and damaging short circuits or severe electrical
shocks. When performing any work where electrical terminals could possibly be grounded or touched by the mechanic, the battery cables should be disconnected at the
battery.
Any time the intake or exhaust openings are exposed during service they should be covered to protect against accidental entrance of foreign material which could enter the
cylinders and cause extensive internal damage when the
engine is started.
Notice to Users of This
Manual
This service manual has been written and published by the
Service Department of Mercury Marine to aid our dealers’
mechanics and company service personnel when servicing the products described herein.
It is assumed that these personnel are familiar with the
servicing procedures of these products, or like or similar
products manufactured and marketed by Mercury Marine,
that they have been trained in the recommended servicing
procedures of these products which includes the use of
mechanics’ common hand tools and the special Mercury
Marine or recommended tools from other suppliers.
It is important to note, during any maintenance procedure
replacement fasteners must have the same measurements and strength as those removed. Numbers on the
heads of the metric bolts and on the surfaces of metric nuts
indicate their strength. American bolts use radial lines for
this purpose, while most American nuts do not have
strength markings. Mismatched or incorrect fasteners can
result in damage or malfunction, or possibly personal injury. Therefore, fasteners removed should be saved for reuse in the same locations whenever possible. Where the
fasteners are not satisfactory for re-use, care should be
taken to select a replacement that matches the original.
1-0 - GENERALINFORMATION and SPECIFICATIONS90-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996
Propeller Information
For in-depth information on marine propellers and boat
performance – written by marine engineers – see your Authorized Dealer for the illustrated “What Y ou Should Know
About Quicksilver Propellers... and Boat Performance Information” (Part No. 90-86144).
How To Use This Manual
SectionSection Heading
1General Information and Specifications
2Electrical & Ignition
3Fuel Systems
4Powerhead
5Mid-Section
6Lower Unit
7Outboard Installation/Attachments
The manual is divided into SECTIONS (shown, right) which
represents major components and systems.
Some SECTIONS are further divided into PARTS. Each
P ART has a title page. A “T able of Contents” for the particular PART is printed on the back of the title page.
SECTIONS and P AR TS are listed on the “Service Manual
Outline” sheet which immediately follows the cover of this
book.
EXAMPLE:
EXAMPLE:
Page Numbering
Two number groups appear at the bottom of each page.
The example, below, is self-explanatory.
90-817643R2 DECEMBER 1996
Revision No. 2
Month of Printing
Year of Printing
LOWER UNIT - 6A-7
Section Description
Section Number
Part of Section Letter
Page Number
GENERAL INFORMATION and SPECIFICATIONS - 1-190-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996
Master Specifications
Model 45 Jet/50/55 Marathon-Seapro/60/60 Marathon-Seapro/60 Bigfoot
HORSEPOWER
(KW)
OUTBOARD
WEIGHT
CYLINDER
BLOCK
STROKELength2.520 in. (64.008mm)
CYLINDER
BORE
PISTONPiston Type
REEDSReed Stand 0pen (Max.)
Model 50
Model 55
Model 60
Model 45 Jet
Electric Start (ELPTO)
(ELO)
Manual Start (ML)
Type
Displacement
Diameter (Std)
Taper/Out of Round Maximum
Bore Type
Standard
0.015 in. (0.381mm) Oversize
0.030 in. (0.762) Oversize
Reed Stop (Max.)
Reed Thickness
– 45 Jet/50/60
– 55
50 (37)
55 (41)
60 (45)
60 (45)
217.0 lbs. (98.4kg)
213.0 lbs. (96.6kg)
213.0 lbs. (96.6kg)
Two-Stoke Cycle – Loop Charged
51.8 cu. in. (849cc)
2.955 in. (75.057mm)
0.003 in. (0.076mm)
Cast Iron
Aluminum
2.950 in. (74.93 mm)
2.965 in. (75.31 mm)
2.980 in. (75.69 mm)
0.020 in. (0.50mm)
Not Adjustable
0.008 in. (0.203mm)
0.010 in. (0.254mm)
GEAR
HOUSING
FUEL
SYSTEM
50/55/60
Gear Ratio
Gearcase Capacity
Forward Gear - No. of Teeth
Pinion Gear - No. of Teeth
Pinion Height
Forward Gear Backlash
Water Pressure
– @ Idle
– @ WOT
60 SeaPro/Marathon, 60 Bigfoot
Gear Ratio
Gearcase Capacity
Forward Gear - No. of Teeth-Type
Pinion Gear - No. of Teeth-Type
Pinion Height
Forward Gear Backlash
Water Pressure @ RPM
Fuel
Recommended Gasoline
Recommended Oil
Gasoline/Oil Ratio
Fuel Pressure – @ Idle
– @ WOT
1.64:1
11.5 fl. oz. (340ml)
23
14
0.025 in. (0.64mm)
0.013 in. – 0.019 in.
(0.33mm – 0.48mm)
1 – 3 PSI
7 – 12 PSI
2.3:1
22.5 fl. oz. (655ml)
30
13
0.025 in. (0.64mm)
0.012 in. to 0.019 in. (0.30mm to 0.48mm)
10 to 15 PSI (69 to 103 kPa) @ 5250 RPM
Pre-Mixed Gasoline and Oil
Unleaded 87 Octane Minimum
Quicksilver TC-W II or TC-W3 2 Cycle
Outboard Oil
50:1 (25:1 Break-In)
3-1/2 PSI
6 PSI
1-2 - GENERAL INFORMA TION and SPECIFICATIONS90-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996
Model 45 Jet/50/55 Marathon-Seapro/60/60 Marathon-Seapro/60 Bigfoot
STARTING
SYSTEM
IGNITION
SYSTEM
CHARGING
SYSTEM
C
A
R
B
U
R
E
T
O
R
Manual Start – All Models
Electric Start – Optional – All Models
Standard2.950 in.2.955 in.
Piston(74.93 mm)(75.057mm)
0.015 in.2.965 in.2.970 in.
(0.381 mm)(75.31 mm)(75.438 mm)
Oversize
0.030 in.2.980 in.2.985 in.
(0.752 mm)(75.69 mm)(75.819 mm)
Oversize
1-4 - GENERAL INFORMA TION and SPECIFICATIONS90-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996
Cowl Removal
Filling Oil Injection System
Remove fill cap (a) from the oil tank and fill tank with oil. Retighten the fill cap.
a
50553
50554
50552
Use Quicksilver NMMA Certified TC-W3 or TC-WII 2-Cycle
Outboard Oil.
• Quicksilver Certified TC-W3 Outboard Oil is a higher
grade oil that provides increased lubrication and extra
resistance to carbon buildup when used with good or varying grades of gasoline.
• Quicksilver Certified TC-WII Outboard Oil is an industry
leading oil that provides superior outboard lubrication
and resistance to carbon buildup when used with good
grades of gasoline.
Periodically consult with your dealer to get the latest gasoline and oil recommendations. If Quicksilver 2-Cycle Outboard Oil is not available, substitute a 2-Cycle outboard
manufacturers oil that is NMMA Certified TC-W3 or TCWII, or another brand of 2-Cycle outboard oil that is NMMA
Certified TC-W3 or TC-WII. The use of an inferior 2-Cycle
outboard oil can reduce engine durability. Damage from
use of inferior oil may not be covered under the limited warranty .
GENERAL INFORMATION and SPECIFICATIONS - 1-590-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996
Propeller Selection
Propeller Installation
1. Select a propeller that will allow the engine to operate
at or near the top of the recommended full throttle RPM
range (listed in “Specifications,” preceding) with a normal load. Maximum engine speed (RPM) for propeller
selection exists when boat speed is maximum and trim
is minimum for that speed. (High RPM, caused by an
excessive trim angle, should not be used in determining correct propeller.) Normally, there is a 150-350
RPM change between propeller pitches.
2. If full throttle operation is below the recommended
range, the propeller MUST BE changed to one with a
lower pitch to prevent loss of performance and possible engine damage.
3. For better acceleration, such as is needed in water
skiing, changing to a different pitch to increase the
engine speed to 500 RPM above the recommended
range is advised. Continuous operation above the recommended maximum RPM, however, is not permissible.
4. After initial propeller installation, the following common
conditions may require that the propeller be changed
to a lower pitch:
a. Warmer weather and great humidity will cause an
RPM loss.
b. Operating in a higher elevation causes an RPM
loss.
! WARNING
T o avoid accidental starting, which could result in personal injury, remove spark plug leads from spark
plugs before working near propeller. Place a block of
wood between the anti-ventilation plate and propeller
to protect hands from propeller blades while tightening propeller nut.
!
CAUTION
If the propeller moves forward-and-aft on the propeller
shaft (is loose), retighten the propeller nut. Operation
with a loose propeller could cause damage to the
thrust hub and gear housing during acceleration, deceleration or when shifting gears.
IMPORTANT: To assure that the propeller remains secure on the shaft during the season, periodically
check propeller shaft nut for tightness.
1. To aid in future removal of the propeller, liberally coat
the propeller shaft spline with one of the following
Quicksilver lubricants:
– Anti-Corrosion Grease
– 2-4-C Marine Lubricant
– Special Lubricant 101
2. Place forward thrust hub on propeller shaft.
c. Operating with a damaged propeller or a dirty boat
bottom or gear housing will cause an RPM loss.
d. Operation with an increased load (additional pas-
sengers, equipment, pulling skiers, etc.).
a - Thrust Hub
b - Propeller Shaft
a
b
50551
1-6 - GENERAL INFORMA TION and SPECIFICATIONS90-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996
3. While aligning splines, place Quicksilver propeller and
tab washer on propeller shaft in this order.
4. T o prevent propeller from rotating, place a flat block of
wood between the anti-ventilation plate and the
propeller.
5. Thread propeller nut on propeller shaft, tighten securely with wrench [minimum of 55 lb. ft. (74.5 N·m) of
torque] and bend on tab washer to secure propeller
nut.
6. After first use, bend the tab straight, retighten propeller
nut [minimum of 55 lb. ft. (74.5 N⋅m) of torque] and
again bend tab washer to secure nut. Check propeller
periodically for tightness.
c
Water test the boat not using the trim adjustment pin. If undesirable and/or unsafe steering conditions are experienced (boat runs with nose down), install trim adjustment
pin in proper hole to prevent unsafe handling characteristics.
a
d
51119
c - Tab Washer
d - Propeller Nut
Installing and Removing Propeller
Trim “In” Angle Adjustment
! WARNING
Operating some boats with outboard trimmed to the
full “in” trim angle [not using trim adjustment bolt (a)]
at planing speed will cause undesirable and/or unsafe
steering conditions. Each boat must be water tested
for handling characteristics after outboard installation
and after any trim adjustments.
IMPORTANT: Some boat/outboard combinations, that
do not use the trim adjustment pin (a) and are trimmed
to the full “in” trim angle, will not experience any undesirable and/or unsafe steering conditions during planing speed. Thus, not using trim adjustment pin may be
desired. However, some boats with outboard trimmed
to the full “in” trim angle at planing speeds will cause
undesirable and/or unsafe steering conditions. If
these steering conditions are experienced, under no
circumstances should the outboard be operated without the trim adjustment pin and without the pin adjusted in the proper holes to prevent unsafe handling
characteristics.
50157
GENERAL INFORMATION and SPECIFICATIONS - 1-790-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996
Propeller Information Chart
50/55 MODELS
Wide Open Throttle RPM: 5000-5500
Recommended Transom Height: Short Shaft 16-1/2 in. (41.9 cm), Long Shaft 21 in. (53.3 cm)
Right Hand Rotation
Gear Reduction: 1.64:1
Thrust Hub: 73345A 1
Approx.Approx.Speed
No. ofGross BoatBoatRangePropeller
DiameterPitchBladesMaterialWgt. (Lbs.)Length(MPH)Part Number
10″19″3AlumUp to 700Up to 14′48-5548-73146A400
10″17″3AlumUp to 800Up to 15′44-5148-73144A400
10″16″3Steel700-900Up to 15′41-4848-91818A500
10″16″3Alum700-900Up to 15′41-4848-73142A400
10.13″15″3Steel800-110013′ to 15′38-4548-76232A500
10.13″15″3Alum800-110013′ to 15′38-4548-73140A400
10.38″14″3Alum900-130014′ to 16′35-4148-816706A40
10-1/4″14″3Steel900-130014′ to 16′35-4148-76230A500
10.38″13″3Steel1000-150014′ to 17′32-3848-76228A500
10-1/2″13″3Alum1000-150014′ to 17′32-3848-816704A40
10.63″12″3Steel1100-170015′ to 17′28-3448-79792A500
10-3/4″12″3Alum1100-170015′ to 17′28-3448-816702A40
10.88″11″3Alum1200-190016′ to 18′24-3048-85632A400
12″10-1/2″3Alum1400-210016′ +22-2848-42740A100
Wide Open Throttle RPM: 5000-5500
Recommended Transom Height: Short Shaft 16-1/2 in. (41.9 cm), Long Shaft 20 in. (53.3 cm)
Right Hand Rotation
Gear Reduction: 1.64:1
Thrust Hub: 73345A 1
Approx.Approx.Speed
No. ofGross BoatBoatRangePropeller
DiameterPitchBladesMaterialWgt. (Lbs.)Length(MPH)Part Number
10″19″3AlumUp to 8000Up to 14′48-5548-73146A400
10″17″3AlumUp to 1000Up to 15′44-5148-73144A400
10″16″3Steel700-1100Up to 15′41-4848-91818A500
10″16″3Alum700-1100Up to 15′41-4848-73142A400
10.13″15″3Steel800-120013′ to 15′38-4548-76232A500
10.13″15″3Alum800-120013′ to 15′38-4548-73140A400
10.38″14″3Alum900-150014′ to 16′35-4148-816706A40
10-1/4″14″3Steel900-150014′ to 16′35-4148-76230A500
10.38″13″3Steel1200-180015′ to 17′32-3848-76228A500
10-1/2″13″3Alum1200-180015′ to 17′32-3848-816704A40
10.63″12″3Steel1500-210016′ to 18′28-3448-79792A500
10-3/4″12″3Alum1500-210016′ to 18′28-3448-816702A40
10.88″11″3Alum1800-240016′ to 18′24-3048-85632A400
12″10-1/2″3Alum2000-260017′ +22-2848-42740A100
1-8 - GENERAL INFORMA TION and SPECIFICATIONS90-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996
Propeller Information Chart
60 BIG FOOT, 60 SEAPRO/MARATHON MODELS
Wide Open Throttle RPM: 5000-5500
Recommended Transom Height: Short Shaft 16-1/2 in. (41.9 cm), Long Shaft 21 in. (53.3 cm),
Extra Long Shaft 23-1/2 in. (59.7cm)
Right Hand Rotation, 4-1/4 in. Gear Case Torpedo
Gear Reduction: 2.3:1
Thrust Hub : 13191A1
Approx.Approx.Speed
No. ofGross BoatBoatRangePropeller
DiameterPitchBladesMaterialWgt. (Lbs.)Length(MPH)Part Number
12-3/4″26″5SteelUp to 800Up to 15′48-5548-815748A400
13-1/2″26″3SteelUp to 800Up to 15′48-5448-16996A40 0
12-3/4″24″5SteelUp to 1000Up to 15′46-5248-815746A400
13-1/2″24″3SteelUp to 1000Up to 15′46-5248-16994A40 0
12-1/2″23″3Alum700-1100Up to 15′45-5148-77350A4000
12-3/4″22″5Steel700-1100Up to 15′43-4948-815744A400
13-1/2″22″3Steel700-1100Up to 16′43-4948-16992A40
12-3/4″21″3Alum800-120013′ to 16′40-4748-77348A4000
12-3/4″20″5Steel800-120013′ to 16′38-4548-816612A400
13-1/2″20″3Steel800-120013′ to 16′38-4548-16990A40
13″19″3Alum1000-150014′ to 17′35-4248-77346A40 0
13″18″3Steel1000-150014′ to 17′33-4048-16988A 5
13-1/4″17″3Alum1300-180015′ to 18′31-3848-77344A40 0
13-1/8″16″3Steel1300-180015′ to 18′29-3648-16986A 5 0
13-3/4″15″3Alum1600-220016′ to 19′26-3348-77342A40 0
13-3/8″14″3Steel1600-220016′ to 19′23-3148-17314A 500
14″13″3Alum2000-260017′ +20-2848-77340A40 0
14″12″3Steel2000-260017′ +17-2648-17312A 5 0
14″11″3Alum2400 +18′ +1-2248-77338A40 0
14″10″3Steel2800 +19′ +1-2048-17310A 5
0
50-60 MODELS
Stainless Steel Race Propellers – Available from Mercury Performance Products
GENERAL INFORMATION and SPECIFICATIONS - 1-990-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996
Power Trim System
(Models with Power Trim)
GENERAL INFORMATION
NOTE: 50/60 models are not equipped with Trim System
Design I. See chart below.
Trim System Design II
a
Design IDesign IIDesign IIIModel
40 (4cyl)
50/60
XXX
XX
The power trim system is filled at the manufacturer and is
ready for use.
Trim outboard through entire trailering range several times
to remove any air from the system.
The trim system is pressurized and is not externally vented.
The outboard can be raised or lowered manually by loos-
ening the manual release valve 2 to 3 turns counterclockwise.
The trim “out” angle of this outboard is not adjustable. The
trim system has an internal valve which will automatically
stop the outward trim travel at 20° when engine RPM is approximately 2000 RPM or higher; outboard also has to be
in water and in gear.
The outboard can be operated beyond the 20° trim limit for
operating outboard in shallow water if engine RPM is kept
below approximately 2000 RPM.
b
5015850146
Trim System Design III
a
52029
a - Fill Screw (System is Pressurized, DO NOT Open Unless Outboard
is Tilted to Full Up Position)
b - Manual Tilt Release Valve Location
a
52028
1-10 - GENERAL INFORMATION and SPECIFICATIONS90-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996
CHECKING TRIM SYSTEM FLUID LEVEL
IMPORT ANT : This trim system is pressurized. Remove
fill screw when outboard is trimmed to the full “up” position. Retighten fill screw securely.
1. Trim outboard to full “up” position. Engage tilt lock lever
(a). Trim system fluid can only be checked when outboard is in this position.
a
TRIMMING OUTBOARD “OUT” (“UP”) CHARACTERISTICS
! WARNING
Excessive trim “out” also may reduce the stability of
some high speed hulls. To correct instability at high
speed, reduce the power GRADUALLY and trim the
outboard “in” slightly before resuming high speed operation. (Rapid reduction in power will cause a sudden
change of steering torque and may cause additional
momentary boat instability.)
1. Will lift bow of boat, generally increasing top speed.
2. Transfers steering torque harder to left on standard or
slightly elevated transom installation (single outboard).
3. Increases clearance over submerged objects.
4. In excess, can cause porpoising and/or ventilation.
5. If trimmed out beyond the water pickup, reduced water
supply can cause serious overheating.
TRIMMING OUTBOARD “IN” (“DOWN”)
CHARACTERISTICS
50157
2. Remove fill screw and check fluid level. Fluid level
should be to bottom of threads in fill hole (b).
3. If necessary, add Quicksilver Power Trim & Steering
Fluid or; Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) Type F,
FA or Dexron II fluid to trim system.
4. Reinstall fill screw.
Trimming (Models with Power Trim)
NOTE: Because varying hull designs react differently in
various degrees of rough water, it is recommended to experiment with trim positions to determine whether trimming
up or down will improve the ride in rough water.
When trimming your outboard from a mid-trim position (trim
tab in neutral straight fore-and-aft position), you can expect
the following results:
! WARNING
Excessive speed at minimum trim “in” may cause undesirable and/or unsafe steering conditions. Each
boat should be tested for handling characteristics after any adjustment is made to the trim angle (trim adjustment pin relocation).
1. Will help planing off, particularly with a heavy load.
2. Usually improves ride in choppy water.
3. In excess, can cause boat to veer to the left or right
(bow steer).
4. Transfers steering torque harder to right (or less to the
left) on single outboard installations.
5. Improves planing speed acceleration.
GENERAL INFORMATION and SPECIFICATIONS - 1-1190-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996
Trim Tab Adjustment
Boat Performance
1. Check trim tab position as follows:
a. Operate boat at the speed at which it would nor-
mally be operated.
b. If the boat pulls to the right (starboard), the trailing
edge of trim tab must be moved to the right. If the
boat pulls to the left (port), the trailing edge of trim
tab must be moved to the left.
2. If necessary, adjust trim tab as follows:
a. Shift outboard control into neutral and turn ignition
key to “Off” position.
b. Loosen bolt (c) and trim tab (b).
c. If boat pulls to the left, adjust trailing edge of trim
tab to the left. If boat pulls to the right, adjust trailing
edge of trim tab to the right.
d. Tighten trim tab bolt securely.
e. Operate boat per “Check trim tab position as
follows,” to check trim tab setting. If necessary
readjust trim tab.
a
TEST INSTRUCTIONS
! WARNING
A tight grip on the steering wheel/tiller handle is
always advisable and is required when accelerating,
decelerating or when trimming the boat. On models
with Power Trim, upon reaching cruising speed, the
outboard should be trimmed to obtain a balanced
steering condition. While trimming, steering loads will
vary and will pull in one direction until a balanced
condition has been attained. If the outboard is trimmed
past the balanced steering condition, the steering
wheel/tiller handle then will have a tendency to pull in
the opposite direction. Excessive trimming past the
balanced steering position will result in increased
steering loads and, in most boat applications, a
decrease in performance.
!
CAUTION
When trimming boat with dual outboards, both outboards should be at approximately the same tilt angle
and be tilted out (up) simultaneously (to prevent boat
from veering side-to-side) until desired boat attitude is
achieved. Outboards can then be trimmed individually
to precisely adjust boat trim angle and pitch.
1. With boat in water, trim the outboard(s) (trim button in
remote control handle) so that the decal on the side of
cowl is horizontal. This is a typical average setting that
should give reasonable acceleration and top speed.
b
c
a - Anti-Ventilation Plate
b - Adjustable Trim Tab
c - Bolt
50553
2. Go for a short familiarization ride at various throttle and
trim settings BEFORE starting testing.
NOTE: Instruments should be read with eye directly in front
to eliminate any error in reading the instruments.
3. When making either top speed or acceleration runs,
best accuracy will be obtained by running with or
against any wind. Side winds require driving in a constant turn to keep the boat moving straight-ahead. If
winds are 10 MPH (16 km/hr) or greater, it is suggested
that all acceleration runs be made downwind.
4. The top speed WOT (wide-open-throttle) test should
be done with the boat normally loaded (to duplicate
actual running conditions). Operate boat in gear at
WOT and check RPM. Engine RPM must be within the
recommended full throttle RPM range (listed in the
Operation and Maintenance Manual).
NOTE: When performing an acceleration test, it is
recommended that a stop watch be used to improve testing
accuracy. A wrist watch with a second hand may also be
substituted.
1-12 - GENERAL INFORMATION and SPECIFICATIONS90-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996
BOAT TEST CHART (Example)
Propeller
Diameter
and
Pitch
101/8” x
15
1
10
/4” x
WOT
WOT
MPH
RPM
*
5450
57003534
Acceleration
in Seconds
*
Time
7
6
Propeller Break Loose Wind during Run
During
Acceleration
slight
no
During
Turns
no
no
*WOT is wide-open-throttle
5. An acceleration test can also be performed if desired.
Start the test with boat motionless in the water and outboard in neutral. A stop watch should be started as the
throttle is quickly pushed to WOT (wide-open-throttle).
Stop the watch as the speedometer needle sweeps
past 20 MPH (32 km/hr). Several runs should be made
to assure a good average.
6. Prop “break loose” (sudden higher RPM), if not excessive, in some cases can be beneficial during acceleration. If undesirable “break loose” occurs, it can be decreased by trimming the outboard further under. If it
remains excessive with all similar propellers, the outboard must be lowered.
Direction
Air
Temperature
(
°F)
73
73
Comments
MPH
5
5
Water
Condition
3”
chop
7. It is suggested that all applicable data be recorded on
a chart (such as that illustrated, above) and retained
for future reference.
8. After several propellers of different pitch and/or design
have been tried, select one that best serves the general purpose of the boat. The selected propeller should
enable the engine to operate within its recommended
full throttle RPM range, without excessive propeller
“break loose” during acceleration or turns. A second
propeller that would make both a suitable spare or a
special purpose alternate might also be desirable.
NOTE: A higher pitch often gives best top speed, but the
next lower pitch gives adequate top speed with much better
acceleration.
GENERAL INFORMATION and SPECIFICATIONS - 1-1390-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996
Lubrication Points
1
1
1
Item
No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
*
Description
Throttle/Shift
Linkage
Pivot Points
Upper
Shift
Shaft
Swivel Pin
Ride Guide
Steering
Cable
Tilt Tube
Steering
Link Rod
Pivot Points
Propeller
Shaft
Starter Motor
Pinion Gear
Gear
Housing
Bearing
Carrier
Type of
Lubricant
Quicksilver
2-4-C w/Te-
flon
Marine
Lubricant
SAE 30W
Motor Oil
Quicksilver
-Anti-Corrosion Grease
SAE 30W
Motor Oil
Quicksilver
2-4-C w/Te-
flon
Marine
Lubricant
Fresh Water
Frequency
Every
60 Days
Every
60 Days
Once in
Season
Once in
Season
Salt Water
Frequency
Every
30 Days
Every
30 Days
Every
60 Days
Every
60 Days
After first 20
Hours, then
once in
season
1
1
1 - Throttle/Shift Linkage Pivot Point Lubrication
1
1
1
50554
Check and fill
after first 10
days, then
every 30 days
10
Gear
Housing
◊
Engine
Crankshaft
Splines to
∆
Drive Shaft
Splines
* Refer to lubrication instructions outlined in “Salt Water Corrosion -
Gear Housing Bearing Carrier and Cover Nut” of this section (see
“Table of Contents”).
Quicksilver
Gear Lube
Quicksilver
2-4-C w/Te-
flon
Marine
Lubricant
Drain and re-
fill after 1st 25
hours, then
after every
100 hours, or
once a year
before storing
Once in
Season
Check and fill
after first 10
days, then
every 30 days
Drain and re-
fill after 1st 25
hours, then
after every
100 hours, or
once a year
before storing
Once in
Season
◊ Refer to “Gear Housing Lubrication” of this section (see “Table of
Contents”).
∆ Refer to “Gear Housing Removal and Installation” (Section 5).
2
2 - Upper Shift Shaft Lubrication
2
51122
1-14 - GENERAL INFORMATION and SPECIFICATIONS90-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996
7
3
50551
7 - Propeller Shaft Lubrication (a)
50157
3 - Swivel Pin Grease Fittings
RIDE GUIDE STEERING CABLE and PIVOT POINTS
LUBRICATION
! WARNING
Core of steering cable (transom end) must be fully
retracted into cable housing before lubricating cable.
If cable is lubricated while extended, hydraulic lock of
cable could occur.
With core of Ride Guide Steering cable (transom end) fully
retracted, lubricate transom end of steering cable thru
grease fitting and exposed portion of cable end with Quicksilver 2-4-C Marine Lubricant. Lubricate all pivot points with
SAE 30W engine oil.
6
4
8
51118
8 - Rotate Starter Motor Pinion Gear To Expose Shaft and Lubricate
5
4 - Ride Guide Steering Grease Fitting
5 - Tilt Tube Grease Fitting
6 - Steering Link Rod Pivot Point Lubrication
50334
Gear Housing Lubrication
GENERAL INFORMATION and SPECIFICATIONS - 1-1590-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996
10
9
50558
GEAR HOUSING LUBRICATION
NOTE: Refer to “Specifications,” for gear housing lubricant
capacity .
! WARNING
If gear housing is installed on outboard, to avoid accidental starting, disconnect (and isolate) spark plug
leads from spark plugs before working near the propeller.
5. Note color of gear lubricant. White or cream color indicates presence of water in lubricant. Gear lubricant
which has been drained from a gear housing recently
in operation will have a yellowish color due to lubricant
agitation/aeration. This is normal and should not be
confused with the presence of water.
6. Presence of water in gear lubricant indicates the need
for disassembly and inspection of oil seals, seal surfaces, O-rings, water pump gaskets as well as gear
housing components for damage.
!
CAUTION
Do not use automotive grease in the gear housing. Use
only Quicksilver Gear Lube or Quicksilver Super-Duty
Lower Unit Lubricant.
1. Tilt outboard so that lubricant in gear housing will drain
toward front of housing, out fill hole and into clean container.
IMPORT ANT: Inspect FILL and VENT plug washers for
damage. Use new washer as needed.
2. Remove lubricant fill plug and washer. Note amount of
metal particles on magnetic fill plug.
3. Remove VENT plugs and washers (a and c) and allow
all lubricant to drain.
c
a
b
IMPORTANT: Never add lubricant to gear housing
without first removing VENT plugs, as trapped air will
prevent housing from being filled. Fill gear housing
only when outboard is in operating position.
7. With outboard in operating position, insert lubricant
tube into fill hole.
8. Fill gear housing until excess lubricant flows from forward VENT hole.
9. Install VENT plug and washer (a).
10. Continue to fill gear housing until lubricant flows from
VENT hole.
11. Install VENT plug and washer (c).
12. Clean magnet on FILL plug and install FILL plug and
washer (b).
SALT WATER CORROSION - GEAR HOUSING
BEARING CARRIER and COVER NUT
Salt water corrosion buildup can be sufficient to split a gear
housing and destroy an entire lower unit. T o protect against
such damage, therefore, it is recommended that the gear
housing bearing carrier be lubricated on a regular basis, as
follows:
Service first at the 20-hour inspection, then on an annual
basis. Remove the entire bearing carrier to adequately
clean corrosive deposits and dried-up lubricant from both
ends of the bearing carrier, as well as the gear housing.
Apply a liberal amount of 2-4-C w/Teflon Marine Lubricant
to the 2 ends of the bearing carrier, then reassemble and
torque to specifications. Refer to gear housing disassembly and reassembly (Section 6A).
50558
a - Lubricant VENT Plug/Washer
b - Lubricant Fill Plug/Washer
c - Lubricant VENT Plug/Washer
4. Inspect gear lubricant for metal particles (lubricant will
have a “metal flake” appearance). Presence of fine
metal particles (resembling powder) on the FILL plug
bar magnet indicates normal wear. The presence of
metal chips on the drain plug bar magnet indicates the
need for gear housing disassembly and components
inspection.
1-16 - GENERAL INFORMATION and SPECIFICATIONS90-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996
Periodic Inspection
Flushing Outboard Cooling System
Conduct a periodic, systematic inspection to uncover and
correct a failure before it can cause inconvenience or mechanical damage. Inspection interval is based on average
operating conditions in recreation service. Under severe
conditions, the inspection interval should be shortened. Inspection includes:
1. Clean entire unit thoroughly, including all accessible
powerhead parts.
2. Check entire unit for loose, damaged or missing parts.
Tighten or replace as required.
3. Lubricate gear housing.
4. Lubricate other points as indicated, previously.
5. Lubricate starter motor shaft with light film of SAE 10W
motor oil. Do not over-lubricate.
6. Service spark plugs. Inspect spark plug leads and
electrical leads for damage or deterioration, as explained in Section 2 “Electrical and Ignition”.
7. Inspect fuel lines for damage or deterioration and service fuel filters as indicated in Section 3 “Fuel System
and Carburetion.”
8. Remove propeller and inspect. Trim nicks and burrs
with a file, being careful not to remove more metal than
absolutely necessary. Inspect for cracks, damage or
bent condition. If condition is doubtful, refer to authorized Quicksilver Propeller Repair Station facilities.
Before reinstalling propeller, coat propeller shaft with
Quicksilver Special Lubricant 101, Anti-Corrosion
Grease or 2-4-C w/Teflon Marine Lubricant.
9. Inspect the outboard surface finish for damage or
corrosion. Thoroughly clean damaged or corroded
areas and apply matching paint (Quicksilver Spray
Paints).
10. Check trim tab and galvanic corrosion sacrificial anode
for damage or for deterioration from salt water
operation.
11. Check remote controls and steering. Be sure that all
connections and fittings are in good condition, properly
secured and correctly adjusted.
! WARNING
When flushing, be certain that area in vicinity of propeller is clear and that no person is standing nearby –
to avoid possible injury . It is recommended to remove
propeller as a precautionary measure.
1. Install Quicksilver Flushing Attachment (73971A2) [or
equivalent tool] on the gear housing from the FRONT
side, positioning the rubber cups over the water intake
openings.
b
a
50551
a - Water Hose (1/2 in. [13mm] I.D. or Larger)
b - Flushing Attachment (73971A2)
(Typical Gear Housing)
2. Connect hose (1/2 in. [13mm] I.D. or larger) between
flushing attachment and water tap.
IMPORTANT: To prevent water pump damage, do not
start or run engine unless cooling water is flowing.
3. With the outboard in normal operating position (vertical), partially open water tap (IT MA Y NOT BE NECESSARY to use full water pressure) and adjust water flow
so that there is a significant water loss around the rubber cups.
GENERAL INFORMATION and SPECIFICATIONS - 1-1790-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996
4. Start engine and idle in neutral. Then increase engine
speed, not to exceed 2500 RPM.
SUBMERGED ENGINE (FRESH WATER)
(PLUS SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS)
5. Flush or service engine as required. Be sure adequate
cooling water is provided.
a. Water must be discharged thru “tell-tale outlet.”
IMPORT ANT : Prevent engine overheating. If water flow
is insufficient, stop engine and determine cause before continuing.
b. Flush until discharged water is clear. In saltwater
areas, run outboard 3 to 5 minutes.
c. Stop engine before turning off water.
6. Stop engine, turn water off and remove flushing attachment from gear housing.
IMPORTANT: While and after flushing, keep outboard
in upright position until all water has drained from
drive shaft housing to prevent water from entering the
powerhead via drive shaft housing and exhaust ports.
Following Complete Submersion
Submerged engine treatment is divided into 3 distinct
problem areas. The most critical is submersion in salt
water; the second is submersion while running.
SAL T WATER SUBMERSION (SPECIAL
INSTRUCTIONS)
Due to the corrosive effect of salt water on internal engine
components, complete disassembly is necessary before
any attempt is made to start the engine.
1. Recover engine as quickly as possible.
2. Remove cowling.
3. Flush exterior of outboard with fresh water to remove
mud, weeds, etc. DO NOT attempt to start engine if
sand has entered powerhead, as powerhead will be
severely damaged. Disassemble powerhead if necessary to clean components.
4. Remove spark plugs and get as much water as possible out of powerhead. Most water can be eliminated by
placing engine in a horizontal position (with spark plug
holes down) and rotating flywheel.
5. Pour alcohol into carburetor throat (alcohol will absorb
water). Again rotate flywheel.
6. Turn engine over and pour alcohol into spark plug
openings and again rotate flywheel.
7. Turn engine over (place spark plug openings down)
and pour engine oil into throats of carburetors while
rotating flywheel to distribute oil throughout crankcase.
8. Again turn engine over and pour approximately one
teaspoon of engine oil into each spark plug opening.
Again rotate flywheel to distribute oil in cylinders.
9. Remove and clean carburetors and fuel pump assembly .
10. Reinstall spark plugs, carburetors and fuel pump.
11. Attempt to start engine, using a fresh fuel source. If
engine starts, it should be run for at least one hour to
eliminate any water in engine.
SUBMERGED WHILE RUNNING (SPECIAL
INSTRUCTIONS)
When an engine is submerged while running, the possibility of internal engine damage is greatly increased. If, after
engine is recovered and with spark plugs removed, engine
fails to rotate freely when turning flywheel, the possibility of
internal damage (bent connecting rod and/or bent crankshaft) exists. If this is the case, the powerhead must be
disassembled.
12. If engine fails to start, determine cause (fuel, electrical
or mechanical). Engine should be run within 2 hours
after recovery of outboard from water, as serious internal damage may occur. If unable to start engine in this
period, disassemble engine and clean all parts and
apply oil as soon as possible.
1-18 - GENERAL INFORMATION and SPECIFICATIONS90-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996
Out-of-Season Outboard Storage
! WARNING
As a safety precaution, when boat is in storage,
remove positive (+) battery cable. This will eliminate
possibility of accidental starting of engine and resultant overheating and damage to engine from lack of
water.
In preparing an outboard for out-of-season storage, 2 precautions must be considered: 1) The engine must be protected from physical damage and 2) the engine must be
protected from rust, corrosion and dirt.
1. Remove cowling from engine.
2. Place outboard in water or install Quicksilver Flushing
Attachment over water intake by following instructions
outlined in “Flushing Cooling System” (see “Table of
Contents”).
3. Start engine and allow to warm up. Disconnect fuel
line. When engine starts to stall quickly spray Quicksilver Storage Seal into each carburetor throat. Continue
to spray until engine dies from lack of fuel.
4. Remove spark plugs and inject a 5 second spray of
Quicksilver Storage Seal around the inside of each cylinder. Manually turn engine over several times to distribute Storage Seal throughout cylinders. Reinstall
spark plugs.
5. If engine fuel filter appears to be contaminated, remove and replace. Refer to Section 3 “Fuel System
and Carburetion.”
6. Drain and refill lower unit with Quicksilver Gear Lube,
as explained in “Gear Housing Lubrication” (see “T able
of Contents”).
7. Clean outboard thoroughly, including all accessible
powerhead parts, and spray with Corrosion and Rust
Preventive.
8. Refer to lubrication chart in this section (see “Table of
Contents”) and lubricate all lubrication points.
9. Remove propeller. Apply Quicksilver Special Lubricant
101, Anti-Corrosion Grease or 2-4-C w/Teflon Marine
Lubricant to propeller shaft and reinstall propeller.
Refer to “Propeller Installation” (see “Table of
Contents”).
10. If the water pickup is clogged, the speedometer will be
inoperative. Clean the pickup with a piece of wire or
blow out with compressed air. Before blowing out with
air, disconnect the tubing from the speedometer.
11. To prevent freeze damage, drain the speedometer
system of water completely before storage. Remove
tubing from speedometer fitting and blow thru the
tubing to remove water.
12. Store battery as outlined in “Out-of-Season Battery
Storage,” following.
13. For out-of-season storage information on Autoblend
units, refer to Section 8 in this service manual.
IMPORT ANT: When storing outboard for the winter, be
sure that all water drain holes in gear housing are open
and free so that all water will drain out. If a speedometer is installed in the boat, disconnect the pickup tube
and allow it to drain. Reconnect the tube after draining.
Trapped water may freeze and expand, thus cracking
gear housing and/or water pump housing. Check and
refill gear housing with Quicksilver Gear Lube before
storage to protect against possible water leakage into
gear housing which is caused by loose lubricant vent
plug or loose grease fill plug. Inspect gaskets under
lubricant vent and fill plugs, replacing any damaged
gaskets, before reinstalling plugs.
Out-of-Season Battery Storage
1. Remove battery as soon as possible and remove all
grease, sulfate and dirt from top surface.
2. Cover PLA TES with distilled water, but not over 3/16 in.
(5mm) above perforated baffles.
3. Cover terminal bolts well with grease.
4. Store battery in a COOL, DRY place in a dry carton or
box.
5. Remove battery from storage every 60 days. Check
water level and place on charge for 5 to 6 hours at 6
amperes. DO NOT fast charge.
!
CAUTION
A discharged battery can be damaged by freezing.
GENERAL INFORMATION and SPECIFICATIONS - 1-1990-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996
How Weather Affects Engine
Performance
Summer Conditions of high temperature, low barometric
pressure and high humidity all combine to reduce the
engine power. This, in turn, is reflected in decreased boat
speeds--as much as 2 or 3 miles-per-hour (3 or 5 Km
per-hour) in some cases. (Refer to previous chart.) Nothing
will regain this speed for the boater, but the coming of cool,
dry weather.
In pointing out the practical consequences of weather
effects, an engine--running on a hot, humid summer
day--may encounter a loss of as much as 14% of the
horsepower it would produce on a dry, brisk spring or fall
day . The horsepower , that any internal combustion engine
produces, depends upon the density of the air that it
consumes and, in turn, this density is dependent upon the
temperature of the air, its barometric pressure and water
vapor (or humidity) content.
Accompanying this weather-inspired loss of power is a
second but more subtle loss. At rigging time in early spring,
the engine was equipped with a propeller that allowed the
engine to turn within its recommended RPM range at full
throttle. With the coming of the summer weather and the
consequent drop in available horsepower, this propeller
will, in effect, become too large. Consequently , the engine
operates at less than its recommended RPM.
It is a known fact that weather conditions exert a profound
effect on power output of internal combustion engines.
Therefore, established horsepower ratings refer to the
power that the engine will produce at its rated RPM under
a specific combination of weather conditions.
Corporations internationally have settled on adoption of
I.S.O. (International Standards Organization) engine test
standards, as set forth in I.S.O. 3046 standardizing the
computation of horsepower from data obtained on the dynamometer, correcting all values to the power that the engine will produce at sea level, at 30% relative humidity at
77° F (25° C) temperature and a barometric pressure of
29.61 inches of mercury.
Due to the horsepower/RPM characteristics of an engine,
this will result in further loss of horsepower at the propeller
with another decrease in boat speed. This secondary loss,
however, can be regained by switching to a smaller pitch
propeller that allows the engine to again run at recommended RPM.
For boaters to realize optimum engine performance under
changing weather conditions, it is essential that the engine
have the proper propeller to allow it to operate at or near
the top end of the recommended maximum RPM range at
wide-open-throttle with a normal boat load.
Not only does this allow the engine to develop full power,
but equally important is the fact that the engine also will be
operating in an RPM range that discourages damaging
detonation. This, of course, enhances overall reliability and
durability of the engine.
1-20 - GENERAL INFORMATION and SPECIFICATIONS90-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996
Conditions Affecting Operation
1. Proper positioning of the weight inside the boat (persons and gear) has a significant effect on the boat’s
performance, for example:
a. Shifting weight to the rear (stern)
(1) Generally increases top speed.
(2) If in excess, can cause the boat to porpoise.
(3) Can make the bow bounce excessively in
choppy water.
(4) Will increase the danger of the following -
wave splashing into the boat when coming off
plane.
b. Shifting weight to the front (bow)
(1) Improves ease of planing off.
(2) Generally improves rough water ride.
(3) If excessive, can make the boat veer left and
right (bow steer).
2. Boat Bottom: For maximum speed, a boat bottom
should be nearly a flat plane where it contacts the
water and particularly straight and smooth in fore-andaft direction.
a. Hook: Exists when bottom is concave in fore-and-
aft direction when viewed from the side. When
boat is planing, “hook” causes more lift on bottom
near transom and allows bow to drop, thus greatly
increasing wetted surface and reducing boat
speed. “Hook” frequently is caused by supporting
boat too far ahead of transom while hauling on a
trailer or during storage.
Detonation generally is thought of as spontaneous ignition,
but it is best described as a noisy explosion in an unburned
portion of the fuel/air charge after the spark plug has fired.
Detonation creates severe, untimely, shock waves in the
engine, and these shock waves often find or create a weakness: The dome of a piston, piston rings or piston ring
lands, piston pin and roller bearings.
While there are many causes for detonation in a 2-cycle
engine, emphasis is placed on those causes which are
most common in marine 2-cycle application. A few, which
are not commonly understood, are:
1. Over-advanced ignition timing.
2. Use of low octane gasoline.
3. Propeller pitch too high (engine RPM below recommended maximum range).
4. Lean fuel mixture at or near wide-open-throttle.
5. Spark plugs (heat range too hot - incorrect reach
7. Combustion chamber/piston deposits (result in
higher compression ratio).
Detonation usually can be prevented, provided that 1) the
engine is correctly set up and 2) diligent maintenance is
applied to combat the detonation causes, listed, preceding.
b. Rocker: The reverse of hook and much less com-
mon. “Rocker” exists if bottom is convex in foreand-aft direction when viewed from the side, and
boat has strong tendency to porpoise.
c. Surface Roughness: Moss, barnacles, etc., on
boat or corrosion of outboard’s gear housing increase skin friction and cause speed loss. Clean
surfaces when necessary.
3. Gear Housing: If unit is left in the water , marine vegetation may accumulate over a period of time in certain
types of water. This growth must be removed from unit
before operation, as it may clog the water inlet holes in
the gear housing and cause the engine to overheat.
Detonation: Causes and Prevention
Detonation in a 2-cycle engine somewhat resembles the
“pinging” heard in an automobile engine. It can be otherwise described as a tin-link “rattling” or “pinging” sound.
511 15
Damaged Piston Resulting from Detonation
Compression Check
1. Remove spark plugs.
2. Install compression gauge (a) in spark plug hole.
3. Hold throttle plates at W.O.T.
GENERAL INFORMATION and SPECIFICATIONS - 1-2190-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996
4. Crank engine thru at least 4 compression strokes to
obtain highest possible reading.
5. Check and record compression of each cylinder.
Variation of more than 15 psi. (103.5 kPa) between
cylinders indicates that lower compression cylinder is
in some way defective, such as worn or sticking piston
rings and/or scored piston and cylinder.
6. Compression check is important because an engine
with low or uneven compression cannot be tuned
successfully to give peak performance. It is essential,
therefore, that improper compression be corrected
before proceeding with an engine tuneup.
7. Cylinder scoring: If powerhead shows any indication of
overheating, such as discolored or scorched paint,
visually inspect cylinders for scoring or other damage
as outlined in Section 4 “Powerhead.”
Water Pressure Check
NOTE: T o perform these checks, a Water Pressure Gauge
Kit, P/N 91-79250A2 is recommended.
1. Water pressure at idle, in neutral, is 1-3 psi (7-21 kPa).
2. Water pressure should increase, then drop to 4-6 psi
(21-35 kPa) prior to 2500 RPM (due to poppet valve
opening.)
3. At 2500 RPM, water pressure should not exceed 12 psi
(83 kPa). Readings above 12 psi at 2500 RPM may indicate a stuck poppet valve.
a
51046
a - Compression Gauge (P/N 91-29287)
Serial Number Location
The engine serial number is located on the starboard side
of the swivel bracket (as on all Mariner/Mercury models)
and also on the cylinder head (a).
4. Static test (boat stationary - operate in forward gear
with a cut down “ smaller diameter” propeller) at 5000
RPM or above is 7-12 psi (48-83 kPa).
!
CAUTION
A MODIFIED PROPELLER OR LOW PITCH PROPELLER IS REQUIRED TO PERFORM THE ABOVE ST ATIC
TEST. STATIC TEST REQUIRES THE BOAT BE STATIONARY IN THE WATER SECURED TO A DOCK OR
TRAILER AND RUN IN FORW ARD GEAR. DO NOT USE
A FLUSHING DEVICE FOR THIS TEST.
a
51139
1-22 - GENERAL INFORMATION and SPECIFICATIONS90-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996
Painting Procedures
3. Sand blistered area with 3M 180 grit sandpaper
or P180 Gold Film Disc to remove paint blisters
only. Feather edge all broken paint edges.
Avoid serious injury from flying debris. A void serious injury from airborne particles. Use eye and
breathing protection with proper ventilation.
PROPELLERS
1. Sand the entire area to be painted with 3M 120
Regalite Polycut or coarse Scotch-Brite, disc or
belts.
2. Feather edges of all broken paint edges. Try not
to sand through the primer.
3. Clean the surface to be painted using PPG
Industries DX330 Wax and Grease Remover or
equivalent (Xylene or M.E.K.).
4. If bare metal has been exposed, use Quicksilver’s Light Gray Primer.
5. Allow a minimum of 1 hour dry time and no more
than 1 week before applying the finish coat.
6. Apply the finish coat using Quicksilver’s EDP
Propeller Black.
GEAR HOUSINGS
The following procedures should be used in refinishing gear housings. This procedure will provide the
most durable paint system available in the field. The
materials recommended are of high quality and
approximate marine requirements. The following
procedure will provide a repaint job that compares
with a properly applied factory paint finish. It is recommended that the listed materials be purchased
from a local Ditzler Automotive Finish Supply Outlet.
The minimum package quantity of each material
shown following is sufficient to refinish several gear
housings.
Procedure:
4. Clean gear housing thoroughly with (DX-330)
wax and grease remover.
5. Spot repair surfaces where bare metal is exposed with (DX-503) alodine treatment.
IMPORTANT: Do not use any type of aerosol
spray paints as the paint will not properly adhere
to the surface nor will the coating be sufficiently
thick to resist future paint blistering.
6. Mix epoxy chromate primer (DP-40) with equal
part catalyst (DP-401) per manufacturers
instructions, allowing proper induction period for
permeation of the epoxy primer and catalyst.
7. Allow a minimum of one hour drying time and no
more than one week before top coating assemblies.
8. Use Ditzler Urethane DU9000 for Mercury Black,
DU34334 for Mariner Grey, and DU35466 for
Force Charcoal, and DU33414M for Sea Ray
White. Catalyze all three colors with Ditzler DU5
catalyst mixed 1:1 ratio. Reduce with solvents
per Ditzler label.
!
CAUTION
Be sure to comply with instructions on the label
for ventilation and respirators. Using a spray gun,
apply one half to one mil even film thickness. Let
dry, flash off for five minutes and apply another
even coat of one half to one mil film thickness.
This urethane paint will dry to the touch in a matter of hours, but will remain sensitive to scratches
and abrasions for a few days.
9. The type of spray gun used will determine the
proper reduction ratio of the paint.
IMPORT ANT: Do not paint sacrificial zinc trim tab
or zinc anode.
10. Cut out a cardboard “plug” for trim tab pocket to
keep paint off of mating surface to maintain good
continuity circuitry between trim tab and gear
housing.
1. Wash gear housing with a muriatic acid base
cleaner to remove any type of marine growth,
and rinse with water, if necessary.
2. Wash gear housing with soap and water, then
rinse.
GENERAL INFORMATION and SPECIFICATIONS - 1-2390-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996
Decal Application
Decal Removal
1. Mark decal location before removal to assure
proper alignment of new decal.
2. Carefully soften decal and decal adhesive with a
heat gun or heat blower while removing old decal.
3. Clean decal contact area with a 1:1 mixture of isopropyl alcohol and water.
4. Thoroughly dry decal contact area and check for
a completely cleaned surface.
DECAL APPLICATION
1
1. Mix
/2 ounce (16 ml) of dish washing liquid in one
gallon (4 l) of cool water to use as wetting solution.
NOTE: Leave protective masking, if present, on the face of
decal until final steps of decal installation. This will ensure
that the vinyl decal keeps it’s shape during installation.
2. Place the decal face down on a clean work surface and remove the paper backing from “adhesive side” of decal.
3. Using a spray bottle, flood the entire “adhesive
side” of the decal with the pre-mixed wetting solution.
4. Flood area where the decal will be positioned with
wetting solution.
Instructions for “Wet” Application
NOTE: The following decal installation instructions are pro-
vided for a “Wet” installation. All decals should be applied
wet.
TOOLS REQUIRED
1. Plastic Squeegee*
2. Stick Pin
3. Dish Washing Liquid/Detergent without am-monia** “Joy” and “Drift” are known to be compatible for this process.
** Automotive Body Filler Squeegee
** Do not use a soap that contains petroleum based
solvents.
SERVICE TIP: Placement of decals using the
“Wet” application will allow time to position decal. Read entire installation instructions on this
technique before proceeding.
TEMPERATURE
5. Position pre-wetted decal on wetted surface and
slide into position.
6. Starting at the center of the decal, “lightly”
squeegee out the air bubbles and wetting solution
with overlapping strokes to the outer edge of the
decal. Continue going over the decal surface until
all wrinkles are gone and adhesive bonds to the
cowl surface.
7. Wipe decal surface with soft paper towel or cloth.
8. Wait 10 - 15 minutes.
9. Starting at one corner, “carefully and slowly” pull
the masking off the decal surface at a 180° angle.
NOTE: T o remove any remaining bubbles, pierce the decal
at one end of the bubble with stick pin and press out the entrapped air or wetting solution with your thumb (moving toward the puncture).
IMPORTANT: Installation of vinyl decals should
not be attempted while in direct sunlight. Air and
surface temperature should be between 60°F
(15°C) and 100°F (38°C) for best application.
SURFACE PREPARATION
IMPORT ANT: Do not use a soap or any petroleum
based solvents to clean application surface.
Clean entire application surface with mild dish washing liquid and water. Rinse surface thoroughly with
clean water.
1-24 - GENERAL INFORMATION and SPECIFICATIONS90-817643R1 DECEMBER 1996