Lowrance electronic DF User Manual
www.lowrance.com
Pub. 988-0156-001
X100C &
X105C DF
Fish-finding & Depth Sounding Sonars
Installation and Operation
Instructions
Copyright © 2004 Lowrance Electronics, Inc.
All rights reserved.
Lowrance
®
is a registered trademark of Lowrance Electronics, Inc.
Lowrance Electronics may find it necessary to change or end our policies,
regulations, and special offers at any time. We reserve the right to do so
without notice. All features and specifications subject to change without
notice. All screens in this manual are simulated. On the cover: X105C DF
shown. Other models covered in the manual are similar.
For free owner's manuals and other information,
visit our web site:
www.lowrance.com
Lowrance Electronics Inc.
12000 E. Skelly Dr.
Tulsa, OK USA 74128-2486
Printed in USA.
Table of Contents
Sec. 1: Read Me First! ...............................................................1
Capabilities and Specifications: X100C, X105C DF.................... 2
How Sonar Works ......................................................................... 3
How to Use this Manual: Typographical Conventions................ 4
Sec. 2: Installation & Accessories .......................................... 5
Preparations.................................................................................. 5
Transducer Installation................................................................ 5
Selecting a Transducer Location.............................................. 6
How Low Should You Go?......................................................... 7
Shoot-Thru-Hull vs. Transom Mounting ................................. 8
Transom Transducer Assembly and Mounting ....................... 9
Trolling Motor Bracket Installation....................................... 15
Transducer Orientation and Fish Arches .............................. 15
Shoot-Thru-Hull Preparation and Installation ..................... 16
Speed/Temperature Sensors ................................................. 20
Power Connections...................................................................... 22
NMEA 2000 Cable Connections ................................................. 25
Connecting to a NMEA 2000 Network................................... 25
NMEA 0183 Cable Connections ................................................. 25
Mounting the Unit: Bracket, in-Dash or Portable .................... 26
Other Accessories........................................................................ 29
Face Cover................................................................................... 30
Sec. 3: Basic Sonar Operation............................................... 31
Keyboard .....................................................................................31
Power/Lights (Turn Unit On and Off) ....................................... 32
Main Menu .................................................................................. 32
Pages ........................................................................................... 34
Basic Sonar Quick Reference ............................................... 37
Sonar Operations ........................................................................ 37
Fish Symbols vs. Full Sonar Chart ........................................ 40
Other Free Training Aids ....................................................... 41
Sec. 4: Sonar Options & Other Features ............................43
ASP (Advanced Signal Processing) ......................................... 43
Alarms ......................................................................................... 44
Depth Alarms .......................................................................... 44
Zone Alarm .............................................................................. 45
Fish Alarm............................................................................... 46
Calibrate Speed........................................................................... 47
Chart Speed................................................................................. 47
ColorLine.................................................................................. 48
Depth Cursor............................................................................... 49
Depth Range - Automatic ........................................................... 50
i
Depth Range - Manual................................................................ 51
Turn Auto Depth Range on Again:......................................... 51
Depth Range - Upper and Lower Limits ................................... 51
FasTrack .................................................................................. 53
Fish I.D. (Fish Symbols & Depths) ......................................... 53
FishTrack ................................................................................. 54
Frequency (Change Transducer Frequency) .............................55
HyperScroll .............................................................................. 56
Noise Rejection............................................................................ 56
Overlay Data ............................................................................... 56
Select Data for Display: .......................................................... 56
Turn Off Displayed Data: ....................................................... 57
Change Displayed Data Font Size: ........................................ 58
Ping Speed & HyperScroll....................................................... 58
Change Ping Speed: ................................................................ 59
Adjust Sensitivity:................................................................... 59
Turn Off HyperScroll: ............................................................. 60
Reset Options .............................................................................. 60
Reset Water Distance ................................................................. 60
Set Keel Offset ............................................................................61
Sensitivity & Auto Sensitivity.................................................... 62
Turn Auto Sensitivity Back on:.............................................. 63
Sonar Color Mode........................................................................ 64
Sonar Page & Sonar Chart Display Options ............................. 64
Full Sonar Chart ..................................................................... 64
Split Zoom Sonar Chart.......................................................... 65
Digital Data/Chart .................................................................. 65
Customizing the Digital Data/Chart Screen...................... 66
FlashGraf ............................................................................. 67
Flasher..................................................................................... 68
Sonar Simulator.......................................................................... 68
Stop Chart ................................................................................... 69
Surface Clarity............................................................................ 69
Upper and Lower Limits ............................................................ 70
Zoom & Zoom Bar ....................................................................... 70
Zoom Pan..................................................................................... 71
Sec. 5: Sonar Troubleshooting..............................................73
Sec. 6: Supplemental Material.............................................. 77
Index........................................................................................... 77
ii
Section 1: Read Me First!
How this manual can get you out on the water, fast!
Welcome to the exciting world of digital sonar! We know you're anxious
to begin finding fish, but we have a favor to ask. Before you grab your
unit and begin installing it, please give us a moment or two to explain
how our manual can help you get the best performance from your compact, wide-screen, fish finder.
First, we want to thank you for buying a Lowrance sonar. Whether
you're a first time user or a professional fisherman, you'll discover that
your unit is easy to use, yet capable of handling demanding sonar
tasks. You won't find another sonar unit with this much power and this
many features for this price!
Our goal for this book is to get you on the water fast, with a minimum
of fuss. Like you, we'd rather spend more time boating or fishing and
less time reading the manual!
So, we designed our book so that you don't have to read the whole thing
from front to back for the information you want. At the start (or end) of
each segment, we'll tell you what content is coming up next. If it's a
concept you're already familiar with, we'll show you how and where to
skip ahead for the next important topic. We've also made it easy to look
up any tips you may need from time to time. Here's how:
The manual is organized into 6 sections. This first section is an introduction to the sonar unit. It tells you the basics you need to know before you can make the unit look below the surface to find some fish.
Section 2 will help you install your unit and the transducer. We'll also
tell you about some of the available accessories.
Section 3 covers Basic Sonar Operation. It will show you how easy it is
to run your sonar, right out of the box. This section features a one-page
Sonar Quick Reference. (If you've already jumped ahead and fig-
ured out how to install the unit yourself, and you just can't wait
any longer, turn to the Quick Reference on page 37 and head
for the water with your sonar unit!)
After you've gained some experience with your sonar, you'll want to
check out Section 4, which discusses more advanced Sonar Options and
Other Features.
When you come to a sonar menu command on the unit's screen, you can
look it up in the manual by skimming over the table of contents or index,
just flipping through Section 3 or scanning through the sonar options in
Section 4.
1
If you're having difficulty with your sonar, you can find an answer to
the most common problems in Section 5, Sonar Troubleshooting.
Finally, in Section 6, we offer Supplemental Material, including a list of
warranty and customer service information.
Now, if you're into the fine details, glance over the next segment on
specifications to see just how much sonar power your unit contains. It's
important to us (and our power users), but, if you don't care how many
watts of power the unit has, skip ahead to important information on how
sonar works, on page 3.
Capabilities and Specifications: X100C, X105C DF
General
Display:............................ 1/4 VGA color, transflective TFT display; 5.0"
(12.7 cm) diagonal viewing area.
Resolution:...................... 320 pixels (vert.) x 240 pixel (horiz.) resolu-
tion; 153,600 total pixels
Backlighting:................... Color backlit screen and keypad for night use.
Input power:................... 10 to 15 volts DC.
Case size:......................... 5.4" H x 6.9" W x 3.4" D (13.8 x 17.6 x 8.6
cm); sealed and waterproof; suitable for
saltwater use.
Back-up memory: ........ Built-in memory stores user settings for
decades.
Languages:...................... 10; menu languages selectable by user.
Sonar
Frequency:........................ 50/200 kHz for X105C DF; 200 kHz for X100C.
Transducers: .................. A dual-frequency Skimmer
transducer with
built-in temperature sensor is packed with
the X105C DF. It has 35°/12° cone angles. A
single-frequency with built-in temperature
sensor is packed with the X100C. It has a 20°
cone angle. Transducers operate at speeds up
to 70 mph (61 kts).
Maximum
transmitter power: ....... X105C DF:
4,000 watts peak-to-peak/500 watts RMS.
X100C:
2,400 watts peak-to-peak/300 watts RMS.
Sonar sounding
depth capability: ........... X105C DF: 2,500 feet (762 meters).
X100C: 900 feet (274 meters).
2
Actual capability depends on transducer
configuration and installation, bottom composition and water conditions. All sonar
units typically read deeper in fresh water
than in salt water.
Depth display:................ Continuous display .
Audible alarms: ............. Deep/shallow/fish/zone.
Automatic ranging:....... Yes, with instant screen updates.
Auto bottom track:........ Yes.
Zoom bottom track: ...... Yes.
Split-screen zoom:......... Yes.
Surface water temp: ..... Yes.
Speed/distance log: ....... Optional (requires optional speed sensor).
NOTICE!
The storage temperature range for your unit is from -4 degrees to +167
degrees Fahrenheit (-20 degrees to +75 degrees Celsius). Extended stor-
age in temperatures higher or lower than specified will damage the liquid crystal display in your unit. This type of damage is not covered by
the warranty. For more information, contact the factory's Customer
Service Department; phone numbers are listed on the last page.
How Sonar Works
Sonar has been around since the 1940s, so if you already know how it
works, skip ahead to the next segment on the typographical conventions
used in this manual. But, if you've never owned a sonar fish finder, this
segment will tell you the under water basics.
Sonar is an abbreviation for SOund NA
ogy developed during World War II for tracking enemy submarines.
(Lowrance developed the world's first transistorized sportfishing sonar in
1957.) A sonar consists of a transmitter, transducer, receiver and display. In simple terms, here's how it finds the bottom, or the fish:
The transmitter emits an electrical impulse, which the transducer converts into a sound wave and sends into the water. (The sound frequency
can't be heard by humans or fish.) The sound wave strikes an object
(fish, structure, bottom) and bounces back to the transducer, which
converts the sound back into an electrical signal.
The receiver amplifies this return signal, or echo, and sends it to the
display, where an image of the object appears on the scrolling sonar
chart. The sonar's microprocessor calculates the time lapse between the
transmitted signal and echo return to determine the distance to the
object. The whole process repeats itself several times each second.
vigation and Ranging, a technol-
3
How to use this manual: typographical conventions
Many instructions are listed as numbered steps. The keypad and arrow
"keystrokes" appear as boldface type. So, if you're in a real hurry (or
just need a reminder), you can skim the instructions and pick out what
menu command to use by finding the boldface command text. The following paragraphs explain how to interpret the text formatting for
those commands and other instructions:
Arrow Keys
The arrow keys control a horizontal line depth cursor on the sonar
screen. The arrow keys also help you move around the menus so you
can execute different commands. They are represented by symbols like
these, which denote the down arrow key, the up arrow, the left arrow
and the right arrow: ↓ ↑ ← →.
Keyboard
The other keys perform a variety of functions. When the text refers to a
key to press, the key is shown in bold, sans serif type. For example, the
"Enter" key is shown as
Menu Commands
A menu command or a menu option will appear in small capital letters,
in a bold sans serif type like this:
are to select this command or option from a menu or take an action of
some kind with the menu item. Text that you may need to enter or file
names you need to select are show in italic type, such as data type.
ENT and the "Menu" key is shown as MENU.
DEPTH CURSOR. These indicate that you
Instructions = Menu Sequences
Most functions you perform with the sonar unit are described as a sequence of key strokes and selecting menu commands. We've written
them in a condensed manner for quick and easy reading.
For example, instructions for turning on the Fish ID feature would
look like this:
1. From the Sonar Page, press
2. Press ↓ to
FISH SYMBOLS|ENT|EXIT|EXIT.
MENU|↓ to SONAR FEATURES|ENT.
Translated into complete English, step 1 above would mean: "Start on
the Sonar Page. Press the Menu key then repeatedly press (or press and
hold) the down arrow key to scroll down the menu and select (highlight)
the Sonar Features menu command. Then press the Enter key."
Step 2 would mean: "Press the down arrow key to select (highlight) the
Fish ID symbols command. Next, press the Enter key, then press the
Exit key twice."
4
Section 2:
Installation & Accessories
Preparations
You can install the sonar system in some other order if you prefer, but
we recommend this installation sequence:
Caution:
You should read over this entire installation section before drilling any holes in your vessel!
1. Determine the approximate location for the sonar unit, so you can
plan how and where to route the cables for the transducer and power.
This will help you make sure you have enough cable length for the desired configuration.
2. Determine the approximate location for the transducer and its
cable route.
3. Determine the location of your battery or other power connection,
along with the power cable route.
4. Install the transducer and route the transducer cable to the sonar unit.
5. Install the power cable and route it to the sonar unit.
6. Mount the sonar unit.
Transducer Installation
These instructions will help you install your Skimmer
transom, on a trolling motor or inside a hull. These instructions cover
both single- and dual-frequency Skimmer transducers. Please read all
instructions before proceeding with any installation.
transducer on a
The smaller single-frequency Skimmers typically use a one-piece,
stainless steel mounting bracket. The larger dual-frequency Skimmers
typically use a two-piece, plastic mounting bracket. The trolling motor
mount uses a one-piece plastic bracket with an adjustable strap.
These are all "kick-up" mounting brackets. They help prevent damage if
the transducer strikes an object while the boat is moving. If the transducer does "kick-up," the bracket can easily be pushed back into place
without tools.
Read these instructions carefully before attempting the installation.
Determine which of the mounting positions is right for your boat. Re-
member, the transducer installation is the most critical part of a
sonar installation.
5
NOTE:
The following installation types also call for these recommended
tools and required supplies that you must provide (supplies listed
here are not included):
Single-frequency transom installations
Tools include: two adjustable wrenches, drill, #29 (0.136") drill bit, flathead screwdriver. Supplies: high quality, marine grade above- or belowwaterline sealant/adhesive compound.
Dual-frequency transom installations
Tools: two adjustable wrenches, drill, #20 (0.161") drill bit, flat-head
screwdriver. Supplies: four, 1" long, #12 stainless steel slotted wood screws,
high quality, marine grade above- or below-waterline sealant/adhesive
compound.
Single-frequency trolling motor installations
Tools: two adjustable wrenches, flat-head screwdriver. Supplies: plastic
cable ties.
Shoot-through hull installations
Tools: these will vary depending on your hull's composition. Consult your
boat dealer or manufacturer. Other tools are a wooden craft stick or
similar tool for stirring and applying epoxy, and a paper plate or piece
of cardboard to mix the epoxy on. Supplies: rubbing alcohol, 100 grit
sandpaper, specially formulated epoxy adhesive available from LEI (see
ordering information on the inside back cover). A sandwich hull also
requires polyester resin.
Selecting a Transducer Location
1. The location must be in the water at all times, at all operating speeds.
2. The transducer must be placed in a location that has a smooth flow of
water at all times. If the transducer is not placed in a smooth flow of
water, interference caused by bubbles and turbulence will show on
the sonar's display in the form of random lines or dots whenever the
boat is moving.
NOTE:
Some aluminum boats with strakes or ribs on the outside of the
hull create large amounts of turbulence at high speed. These boats
typically have large outboard motors capable of propelling the boat
at speeds faster than 35 mph. Typically, a good transom location on
aluminum boats is between the ribs closest to the engine.
3. The transducer should be installed with its face pointing straight
down, if possible. For shoot-thru applications: Many popular fishing
6
boat hulls have a flat keel pad that offers a good mounting surface. On
prevent the transducer from
location
Deadrise less than 10
vee hulls, try to place the transducer where the deadrise is 10° or less.
°
Left, vee pad hull; right, vee hull. A pod style transducer is shown
Pad
here, but the principle is the same for Skimmers inside a hull.
Strakes
4. If the transducer is mounted on the transom, make sure it doesn't
interfere with the trailer or hauling of the boat. Also, don't mount it
closer than approximately one foot from the engine's lower unit. This
will prevent cavitation (bubble) interference with propeller operation.
5. If possible, route the transducer cable away from other wiring on the
boat. Electrical noise from engine wiring, bilge pumps and aerators
can be displayed on the sonar's screen. Use caution when routing the
transducer cable around these wires.
CAUTION: Clamp the transducer cable to transom near
the transducer. This will help
entering the boat if it is
knocked off at high speed.
Good location
Poor location
Good
Poor angle
Good and poor transducer locations.
Good location
How low should you go?
For most situations, you should install your Skimmer transducer so
that its centerline is level with the bottom of the boat hull. This will
usually give you the best combination of smooth water flow and protection from bangs and bumps.
7
Transom
Transducer
centerline
Hull bottom
Align transducer centerline with hull bottom.
However, there are times when you may need to adjust the transducer
slightly higher or lower. (The slots in the mounting brackets allow you
to loosen the screws and slide the transducer up or down.) If you frequently lose bottom signal lock while running at high speed, the transducer may be coming out of the water as you cross waves or wakes.
Move the transducer a little lower to help prevent this.
If you cruise or fish around lots of structure and cover, your transducer
may be frequently kicking up from object strikes. If you wish, you may
move the transducer a little higher for more protection.
There are two extremes you should avoid. Never let the edge of the
mounting bracket extend below the bottom of the hull. Never let the
bottom – the face – of the transducer rise above the bottom of the hull.
Shoot-thru-hull vs. Transom Mounting
In a shoot-thru-hull installation, the transducer is bonded to the inside
of the hull with epoxy. The sonar "ping" signal actually passes through
the hull and into the water. This differs from a bolt-thru-hull installation (often called simply "thru-hull"). In that case, a hole is cut in the
hull and a specially designed transducer is mounted through the hull
with a threaded shaft and nut. This puts the transducer in direct contact
with the water.
Typically, shoot-thru-hull installations give excellent high speed operation and good to excellent depth capability. There is no possibility of
transducer damage from floating objects, as there is with a transommounted transducer. A transducer mounted inside the hull can't be
knocked off when docking or loading on a trailer.
However, the shoot-thru-hull installation does have its drawbacks.
First, some loss of sensitivity does occur, even on the best hulls. This
varies from hull to hull, even from different installations on the same
hull. This is caused by differences in hull lay-up and construction.
Second, the transducer angle cannot be adjusted for the best fish arches
on your sonar display. (This is not an issue for flasher-style sonars.)
8
Lack of angle adjustment can be particularly troublesome on hulls that
sit with the bow high when at rest or at slow trolling speeds.
Third, a transducer CAN NOT shoot through wood and metal hulls.
Those hulls require either a transom mount or a thru-hull installation.
Fourth, if your Skimmer transducer has a built in temp sensor, it will
only show the temperature of the bilge, not the water surface temp.
Follow the testing procedures listed in the shoot-thru-hull installation
section at the end of this lesson to determine if you can satisfactorily
shoot through the hull.
TRANSOM TRANSDUCER ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING
The best way to install these transducers is to loosely assemble all of the
parts first, place the transducer's bracket against the transom and see if
you can move the transducer so that it's parallel with the ground.
The following instructions sometimes vary depending on the mounting
bracket that came with your transducer. Single-frequency Skimmers
come with a one-piece stainless steel bracket, while dual-frequency
Skimmers come with a two-piece plastic mounting bracket. Use the set of
instructions that fits your model.
1. Assembling the bracket.
A. One-piece bracket: Press the two small plastic ratchets into the
sides of the metal bracket as shown in the following illustration. Notice
there are letters molded into each ratchet. Place each ratchet into the
bracket with the letter "A" aligned with the dot stamped into the metal
bracket. This position sets the transducer's coarse angle adjustment for a
14° transom. Most outboard and stern-drive transoms have a 14° angle.
Dot
Align plastic ratchets in bracket.
B. Two-piece bracket: Locate the four plastic ratchets in the transducer's hardware package. Press two ratchets into the sides of the plastic bracket and two on either side of the transducer as shown in the following illustrations. Notice there are letters molded into each ratchet.
9
Place the ratchets into the bracket with the letter "A" aligned with the
alignment mark molded into the bracket. Place the ratchets onto the
transducer with the letter "A" aligned with the 12 o'clock position on
the transducer stem. These positions set the transducer's coarse angle
adjustment for a 14° transom. Most outboard and stern-drive transoms have a 14° angle.
Alignment letters
Alignment
positions
Transducer
Transducer bracket
Transducer
Insert and align ratchets.
bracket
Transducer
Ratchet
Add ratchets to bracket and transducer.
Ratchet
2. Aligning the transducer on the transom.
A. One-piece bracket: Slide the transducer between the two ratch-
ets. Temporarily slide the bolt though the transducer assembly and
hold it against the transom. Looking at the transducer from the side,
check to see if it will adjust so that its face is parallel to the ground.
If it does, then the "A" position is correct for your hull.
10
If the transducer's face isn't parallel with the ground, remove the
transducer and ratchets from the bracket. Place the ratchets into the
holes in the bracket with the letter "B" aligned with the dot stamped
in the bracket.
Reassemble the transducer and bracket and place them against the
transom. Again, check to see if you can move the transducer so it's
parallel with the ground. If you can, then go to step 3A. If it doesn't,
repeat step 2A, but use a different alignment letter until you can
place the transducer on the transom correctly.
Ratchets
Insert bolt and check transducer position on transom.
B. Two-piece bracket: Assemble the transducer and bracket as shown
in the following figure. Temporarily slide the bolt though the transducer
assembly but don't tighten the nut at this time. Hold the assembled
transducer and bracket against the transom. Looking at the transducer
from the side, check to see if it will adjust so that its face is parallel to
the ground. If it does, then the "A" positions are correct for your hull.
If the transducer's face isn't parallel with the ground, remove and
disassemble the transducer and ratchets. Place the ratchets into the
bracket holes with the letter "B" aligned with the bracket alignment
mark. Place them on the transducer aligned with the 12 o'clock position on the transducer stem.
Reassemble the transducer and bracket and place them against the
transom. Again, check to see if you can move the transducer so it's
parallel with the ground. If you can, then go to step 3B. If it doesn't,
repeat step 2B, but use a different alignment letter until you can
place the transducer on the transom correctly.
11
Flat washer
Bolt
Flat washer
Assemble transducer and bracket.
Lock washer
Nut
3. Assembling the transducer.
A. One-piece bracket: Once you determine the correct position for
the ratchets, assemble the transducer as shown in the following figure. Don't tighten the lock nut at this time.
Metal
Nut
Rubber
washers
Assemble transducer and bracket.
washer
Metal washer
Bolt
B. Two-piece bracket: Once you determine the correct position for
the ratchets, assemble the transducer as shown in the figure in step
2B. Don't tighten the lock nut at this time.
4. Drilling mounting holes.
Hold the transducer and bracket assembly against the transom. The
transducer should be roughly parallel to the ground. The transducer's centerline should be in line with the bottom of the hull. Don't
let the bracket extend below the hull!
Mark the center of each slot for the mounting screw pilot holes. You
will drill one hole in the center of each slot.
Drill the holes. For the one-piece bracket, use the #29 bit (for the #10
screws). For the two-piece bracket, use the #20 bit (for the #12 screws).
12
Transom
Transom
Position transducer mount on transom and mark mounting holes.
Side view shown at left and seen from above at right.
5. Attaching transducer to transom.
A. One-piece bracket: Remove the transducer from the bracket and
re-assemble it with the cable passing through the bracket over the
bolt as shown in the following figures.
For single-frequency Skimmer, route cable over bolt and through
bracket. Side view shown at left and seen from above at right.
Both bracket types: Attach the transducer to the transom. Slide the
transducer up or down until it's aligned properly with the bottom of
the hull as shown in the preceding and following figures. Tighten the
bracket's mounting screws, sealing them with the sealant.
Adjust the transducer so that it's parallel to the ground and tighten
the nut until it touches the outer washer, then add 1/4 turn. Don't
over tighten the lock nut! If you do, the transducer won't "kick-up" if
it strikes an object in the water.
13
Flat-bottom hull
Bottom
of
hull
Deep-"vee" hull
Align transducer centerline with hull bottom and attach transducer to
transom. Rear view of dual-frequency Skimmer shown.
6. Route the transducer cable through or over the transom to the sonar
unit. Make sure to leave some slack in the cable at the transducer. If
possible, route the transducer cable away from other wiring on the
boat. Electrical noise from the engine's wiring, bilge pumps, VHF radio
wires and cables, and aerators can be picked up by the sonar. Use caution when routing the transducer cable around these wires.
WARNING:
Clamp the transducer cable to the transom close to the
transducer. This can prevent the transducer from entering the boat if it is knocked off at high speed.
If you need to drill a hole in the transom to pass the connector through,
the required hole size be 1".
Caution:
If you drill a hole in the transom for the cable, make sure it is located above the waterline. After installation, be sure to seal the
hole with the same marine grade above- or below-waterline sealant used for the mounting screws.
7. Make a test run to determine the results. If the bottom is lost at
high speed, or if noise appears on the display, try sliding the transducer bracket down. This puts the transducer deeper into the water,
hopefully below the turbulence causing the noise. Don't allow the
transducer bracket to go below the bottom of the hull!
14
TROLLING MOTOR BRACKET INSTALLATION
Flat washer
(single-frequency only)
1. Attach the optional TMB-S bracket to the transducer as shown in the
following figure, using the hardware supplied with the transducer.
(Note: The internal tooth washer is supplied with the TMB-S.)
TMB-S bracket
Bolt
Internal tooth washer
Nut
Attach motor mounting bracket to transducer.
2. Slide the adjustable strap supplied with the TMB-S through the slot
in the transducer bracket and wrap it around the trolling motor. Position the transducer to aim straight down when the motor is in the
water. Tighten the strap securely.
3. Route the transducer cable alongside the trolling motor shaft. Use
plastic ties (not included) to attach the transducer cable to the trolling motor shaft. Make sure there is enough slack in the cable for the
motor to turn freely. Route the cable to the sonar unit and the transducer is ready for use.
Transducer mounted on trolling motor, side view.
TRANSDUCER ORIENTATION AND FISH ARCHES
If you do not get good fish arches on your display, it could be because
the transducer is not parallel with the ground when the boat is at rest
in the water or at slow trolling speeds.
15
Partial fish arches
Transducer aimed
too far back
Full fish arch
Proper transducer angle
Transducer angles and their effects on fish arches.
Transducer aimed
too far forward
If the arch slopes up – but not back down – then the front of the transducer is too high and needs to be lowered. If only the back half of the
arch is printed, then the nose of the transducer is angled too far down
and needs to be raised.
NOTE:
Periodically wash the transducer's face with soap and water to remove any oil film. Oil and dirt on the face will reduce the sensitivity
or may even prevent operation.
SHOOT-THRU-HULL PREPARATION
Hulls With Floatation Materials
The transducer installation inside a fiberglass hull must be in an area
that does not have air bubbles in the resin or separated fiberglass layers. The sonar signal must pass through solid fiberglass. A successful
transducer installation can be made on hulls with flotation materials
(such as plywood, balsa wood or foam) between layers of fiberglass if
the material is removed from the chosen area. See the following figure.
16
WARNING:
Do not remove any material from your inner hull unless
you know the hull's composition. Careless grinding or
cutting on your hull can result in damage that could sink
your boat. Contact your boat dealer or manufacturer to
confirm your hull specifications.
Fill with polyester resin
Flotation material
Inner hull
Epoxy to hull first
Epoxy the transducer to a solid portion of the hull.
Outer hull
For example, some (but not all) manufacturers use a layer of fiberglass,
then a core of balsa wood, finishing with an outer layer of fiberglass.
Removing the inner layer of fiberglass and the balsa wood core exposes
the outer layer of fiberglass. The transducer can then be epoxied directly to the outer layer of fiberglass. After the epoxy cures for 24
hours, fill the remaining space with polyester resin. When the job is
finished, the hull is watertight and structurally sound. Remember, the
sonar signal must pass through solid fiberglass. Any air bubbles in the
fiberglass or the epoxy will reduce or eliminate the sonar signals.
Testing Determines Best Location
Ideally, the shoot-thru transducer should be installed as close to the
transom as possible, close to the centerline. This will give you the best
performance during high-speed maneuvers.
Transducer location
(high speed)
Transducer location
(trolling speed)
Shoot-thru-hull transducer locations for
high speed or trolling speed operation.
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To choose the proper location for shoot-thru-hull mounting, follow these
Second bottom
True bottom
testing procedures: (You may need a helper to complete these steps.)
1. Anchor the boat in about 30 feet of water. Add a little water to the
sump of the boat. Plug the transducer into the sonar unit, turn it on,
then hold the transducer over the side of the boat in the water. Adjust
the sensitivity and range controls until a second bottom echo is seen on
the display. (You'll need to turn off Auto Sensitivity, Auto Depth Range
and ASP. Try a range setting that is two to three times the water
depth. The harder (more rocky) the bottom, the easier it will be to get a
second bottom signal.) Don't touch the controls once they've been set.
Manual range setting
Example of a second bottom signal. Unit is in 30 feet of water, with
range set at 80 feet and sensitivity set at 87 percent.
2. Next, take the transducer out of the water and place it in the water in
the sump of the boat, face down. (The transducer face is shown in the
figure on the following page.) Notice how the signal strength decreases. The second bottom signal will probably disappear and the bottom signal intensity will likely decrease.
3. Now move the transducer around to find the best location with the
strongest possible bottom signal. If you find a spot with an acceptable
bottom signal, mark the location and move on to step 4.
If you can't get an acceptable bottom signal, try turning up the sensitivity by three or five keystrokes and then move the transducer around
once more. If you find a spot that works, mark it and move on to step 4.
If you have to turn up sensitivity by more than five keystrokes to get a
good signal, the transducer should be mounted on the outside of the
hull. This is especially true if you have to turn sensitivity all the way
up to get a decent bottom signal.
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4. Most people can get good results by following steps 1 through 3, so this
step is optional. If you want to make an extra effort to be absolutely sure
that your selected location will work under all conditions, make a test
run with the boat on plane and observe the bottom signal. You'll need to
figure some way to prop the transducer into position while you make
your test run. (A brick or two might be sufficient to hold it in place.)
5. When you're satisfied with a location, mark it and proceed with
the installation.
Shoot-thru-hull Installation
If you are installing the transducer on a hull with floatation material
sandwiched within the hull, refer to the text "Hulls With Flotation Materials" beginning on page 16.
1. Make sure the area is clean, dry and free of oil or grease, then sand
both the inside surface of the hull and the face of the transducer with
100 grit sandpaper. The sanded hull area should be about 1-1/2 times
the diameter of the transducer. The surface of the hull must be flat
so the entire transducer face is in contact with the hull prior to
bonding. After sanding, clean the hull and transducer with rubbing
alcohol to remove any sanding debris.
Spread epoxy here
Sand this surface
Epoxy transducer to hull.
WARNING:
Use only the epoxy available from LEI. It has been for-
mulated to work with these installation procedures.
Other epoxy types may be too thin or may not cure to the
right consistency for optimum transducer performance.
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2. The epoxy consists of the epoxy itself and a hardener. Remove the
two compounds from the package and place them on the paper plate.
Thoroughly stir the two compounds together until the mixture has a
uniform color and consistency. Do not mix too fast or bubbles will
form in the epoxy. After mixing, you have 20 minutes to complete the
installation before the epoxy becomes unworkable.
Spread a thin layer of epoxy (about 1/16" or 1.5 mm thick) on the face
of the transducer as shown in the previous figure. Make sure there
are no air pockets in the epoxy layer! Then, apply the remaining epoxy to the sanded area on the hull.
3. Press the transducer into the epoxy, twisting and turning it to force
any air bubbles out from under the transducer face. Stop pressing
when you bottom out on the hull. When you're finished, the face of
the transducer should be parallel with the hull, with a minimum
amount of epoxy between the hull and transducer.
4. Apply a weight, such as a brick, to hold the transducer in place while
the epoxy cures. Be careful not to bump the transducer while the epoxy is wet. Leave the weight in place for a minimum of three hours.
Allow the epoxy to cure for 24 hours before moving the boat.
5. After the epoxy has cured, route the cable to the sonar unit and it's
ready to use.
Speed/Temperature Sensors
Optional Temperature Sensor
All the units in this series can display water temperature from a single
analog sensor. Your unit comes packed with a transducer with a temp
sensor built into it. If you wish to purchase an optional additional sensor for your unit, refer to the accessory ordering information inside the
back cover of this manual. These units use the TS-1BL temp sensor.
However, please note that the Sonar socket on your unit is designed to
read only one temp sensor. Since your transducer contains a built-in
temp sensor, attaching the TS-1BL to your unit's Sonar socket will override the temperature information provided by the transducer's temp sensor. Your unit will only display the temperature provided by the TS-1BL.
Optional Speed Sensor Installation
All the units in this series can display speed and distance traveled, but
only the X105C DF comes packed with a speed sensor. If you wish to
purchase an optional additional sensor for your unit, refer to the accessory ordering information inside the back cover of this manual. The
following instructions describe how to install the SP-BL speed sensor.
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Recommended tools for this job include: drill, 7/8" drill bit, 1/8" drill bit
for pilot holes, screwdriver. Required supplies for this job include: four
#8 stainless steel wood screws (3/4" long), high quality, marine grade
above- or below-waterline sealant.
First find a location on the boat's transom where the water flow is
smoothest. Don't mount the sensor behind strakes or ribs. These will
disturb the water flow to the speed sensor. Make sure the sensor will
remain in the water when the boat is on plane. Also make sure the location doesn't interfere with the boat's trailer. Typically, the sensor is
mounted about one foot to the side of the transom's centerline.
Once you've determined the proper location for the unit, place the sensor on the transom. The bottom of the bracket should be flush with the
hull's bottom. Using the sensor as a template, mark the hull for the
screws' pilot holes. Drill four 1/8" holes, one in each end of the slots.
Mount the sensor to the hull using #8 stainless steel wood screws (not
included). Use a high quality, marine grade above- or below-waterline
sealant to seal the screws. Make sure the sensor is flush with the bottom of the hull and tighten the screws.
Good location
Stern view showing good location for mounting sensor on transom.
Transom
Bottom of hull
Speed sensor mounting configuration:
side view (left) and rear view (right.)
Bottom of hull
If the base of the transom has a radius, fill the gap between the transom and the sensor with the sealant. This will help ensure a smooth
water flow.
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Route the sensor's cable through or over the transom to the sonar unit.
If you need to drill a hole in the transom to pass the connector through,
the required hole size is 7/8".
CAUTION:
If you drill a hole in the transom for the cable, make sure it is located above the waterline. After installation, be sure to seal the
hole with the same marine grade above- or below-waterline sealant used for the screws.
The sensor is now ready for use. Connect the sensor to the sonar socket
on the back of your unit and connect the transducer to the speed sensor's socket. If you have any questions concerning the installation of the
sensor, please contact your local boat dealer.
Power Connections
Your unit comes with a power/data cable that splits into three ends,
each with several exposed wires (shown in the following figure). The
end with 4 wires (blue, yellow, orange and shield) is a Data cable that
connects to a NMEA 0183 interface. The end with three wires (red,
black and shield) is a power cable that supports a NMEA 2000 buss.
The thicker three-wire cable (red, black and white) is the Power Supply
for your unit (and optional external speaker connection for some units).
Power Supply wires:
red, black and white
To unit
NMEA 2000 Power wires:
red, black and shield
Data Cable wires: blue,
yellow, orange and shield
The Power/Data cable for this unit.
Depending on your configuration, you may not use all of these wires.
(For example, many units cannot operate an optional external speaker,
so the white wire on the Power Supply cable isn't functional.) The following segments include instructions for installing all the wires that
you will use with this unit.
Powering a NMEA 2000 Buss
(NMEA 2000 Power cable)
A NMEA 2000 buss must be connected to a power source to operate. If
you have a pre-existing NMEA 2000 installation, it may already be
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connected to another power source. If your NMEA 2000 buss is already
powered, you can ignore the NMEA 2000 Power cable. Never attach
two power sources to a single NMEA 2000 buss.
If you do need to power your NMEA 2000 buss, attach the NMEA 2000
Power cable to your boat's battery just as indicated in the following
segment for connecting your unit's Power Supply cable. The NMEA
2000 Power cable's red wire should be attached (with provided 3-amp
fuse) to the boat battery's positive terminal, and the NMEA 2000 Power
cable's black and shield wires should both be attached to the battery's
negative terminal.
Powering Your Unit
(Power Supply cable – red and black wires)
The unit works from a 12-volt battery system. For the best results, attach the power cable directly to the battery. You can attach the power
cable to an accessory or power buss, however you may have problems
with electrical interference. Therefore, it's safer to go ahead and attach
the power cable directly to the battery.
CAUTION:
When using the unit in a saltwater environment, we strongly recommend that you shut off the power supply to the power cable when
the unit is not in use. When the unit is turned off but still connected
to a power supply, electrolysis can occur in the power cable plug.
This may result in corrosion of the plug body along with the electrical contacts in the cable and the unit's power socket.
In saltwater environments we recommend you connect the power
cable to the auxiliary power switch included in most boat designs.
If that results in electrical interference, or if such a switch is not
available, we recommend connecting direct to the battery and installing an inline switch. This will let you shut off power to the
power cable when the unit is not in use. When you are not using
the unit, you should always shut off power to the power cable, especially when the power cable is disconnected from the unit.
If possible, keep the power cable away from other boat wiring, especially
the engine's wires. This will provide the best isolation from electrical
noise. If the cable is not long enough, splice #18 gauge wire onto it. The
power cable has two wires, red and black. Red is the positive lead, black
is negative or ground. (There is also a white wire to power an optional
external speaker for some units.) Make sure to attach the in-line fuse
holder to the red lead as close to the power source as possible.
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