is a registered trademark of Lowrance Electronics, Inc.
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is a registered trademark of Navionics, Inc.
Lowrance Electronics may find it necessary to change or end our
policies, regulations and special offers at any time. We reserve the right
to do so without notice. All features and specifications subject to change
without notice. All screens in this manual are simulated. On the cover:
X98DF shown. Other models covered in the manual are similar.
For free owner's manuals and other information,
visit our web site:
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Lowrance Electronics Inc.
12000 E. Skelly Dr.
Tulsa, OK USA 74128-2486
Table of Contents
Section 1: Read Me First!......................................................... 1
Capabilities and Specifications: X87, X88DF X97, X98DF......... 2
How Sonar Works ......................................................................... 3
How To Use This Manual: Typographical Conventions.............. 4
Section 6: Supplemental Material .......................................85
ii
Section 1: Read Me First!
How this manual can get you out on the water, fast!
Welcome to the exciting world of digital sonar! We know you're anxious
to begin finding fish, but we have a favor to ask. Before you grab your
unit and begin installing it, please give us a moment or two to explain
how our manual can help you get the best performance from your compact, wide-screen, fish finder.
First, we want to thank you for buying a Lowrance sonar. Whether
you're a first time user or a professional fisherman, you'll discover that
your unit is easy to use, yet capable of handling demanding sonar
tasks. You won't find another sonar unit with this much power and this
many features for this price!
Our goal for this book is to get you on the water fast, with a minimum
of fuss. Like you, we'd rather spend more time boating or fishing and
less time reading the manual!
So, we designed our book so that you don't have to read the whole thing
from front to back for the information you want. At the start (or end) of
each segment, we'll tell you what content is coming up next. If it's a
concept you're already familiar with, we'll show you how and where to
skip ahead for the next important topic. We've also made it easy to look
up any tips you may need from time to time. Here's how:
The manual is organized into 6 sections. This first section is an introduction to the sonar unit. It tells you the basics you need to know before you can make the unit look below the surface to find some fish.
Section 2 will help you install your unit and the transducer. We'll also
tell you about some of the available accessories.
Section 3 covers Basic Sonar Operation. It will show you how easy it is
to run your sonar, right out of the box. This section features a one-page
Sonar Quick Reference. (If you've already jumped ahead and fig-
ured out how to install the unit yourself, and you just can't wait
any longer, turn to the Quick Reference on page 38 and head
for the water with your sonar unit!)
After you've gained some experience with your sonar, you'll want to
check out Section 4, which discusses more advanced Sonar Options andOther Features.
When you come to a sonar menu command on the unit's screen, you can
look it up in the manual by skimming over the table of contents, just
1
flipping through Section 3 or scanning through the sonar options in Section 4.
If you're having difficulty with your sonar, you can find an answer to
the most common problems in Section 5, Sonar Troubleshooting.
Finally, in Section 6, we offer Supplemental Material, including a list of
warranty and customer service information.
Now, if you're into the fine details, glance over the next segment on
specifications to see just how much sonar power your unit contains. It's
important to us (and our power users), but, if you don't care how many
watts of power the unit has, skip ahead to important information on how
sonar works, on page 3.
Capabilities and Specifications: X87, X88DF, X97, X98DF
General
Display: ............................. 5.0" (12.7 cm) diagonal high contrast Film
SuperTwist; programmable to viewing preference.
Resolution:...................... 320 pixel x 320 pixel resolution; 102,400 total
pixels. 10-level grayscale definition.
Backlighting:.................. Fluorescent cold cathode screen with multiple
lighting levels; backlit keypad.
Input power:................... 10 to 15 volts DC.
Case size:......................... 5.4" H x 6.9" W x 3.4" D (13.8 x 17.6 x 8.6
cm); sealed and waterproof; suitable for
saltwater use.
Back-up memory: .......... Built-in memory stores sonar records for
decades.
Languages:...................... 10; menu languages selectable by user.
Sonar
Frequency:...................... 50/200 kHz for X88DF and X98DF; 200 kHz
for X87 and X97.
Transducers: .................. a dual-frequency Skimmer
transducer with
built-in temperature sensor is packed with
the X88DF and X98DF. It has 35°/12° cone
angles. a single-frequency with built-in temperature sensor is packed with the X87 and
X97. It has a 20° cone angle. Transducers operate at speeds up to 70 mph (61 kts).
Actual capability depends on transducer configuration and installation, bottom composition and water conditions. All sonar units
typically read deeper in fresh water than in
salt water.
The storage temperature range for your unit is from -4 degrees to +167
degrees Fahrenheit (-20 degrees to +75 degrees Celsius). Extended stor-
age in temperatures higher or lower than specified will damage the liquid crystal display in your unit. This type of damage is not covered by
the warranty. For more information, contact the factory's Customer
Service Department; phone numbers are listed on the last page.
How Sonar Works
Sonar has been around since the 1940s, so if you already know how it
works, skip ahead to the next segment on the typographical conventions
used in this manual. But, if you've never owned a sonar fish finder, this
segment will tell you the under water basics.
Sonar is an abbreviation for SOund NA
ogy developed during World War II for tracking enemy submarines.
(Lowrance developed the world's first transistorized sportfishing sonar in
1957.) A sonar consists of a transmitter, transducer, receiver and display. In simple terms, here's how it finds the bottom, or the fish:
vigation and Ranging, a technol-
3
The transmitter emits an electrical impulse, which the transducer converts into a sound wave and sends into the water. (The sound frequency
can't be heard by humans or fish.) The sound wave strikes an object
(fish, structure, bottom) and bounces back to the transducer, which
converts the sound back into an electrical signal.
The receiver amplifies this return signal, or echo, and sends it to the
display, where an image of the object appears on the scrolling sonar
chart. The sonar's microprocessor calculates the time lapse between the
transmitted signal and echo return to determine the distance to the
object. The whole process repeats itself several times each second.
How to use this manual: typographical conventions
Many instructions are listed as numbered steps. The keypad and arrow
"keystrokes" appear as boldface type. So, if you're in a real hurry (or
just need a reminder), you can skim the instructions and pick out what
menu command to use by finding the boldface command text. The following paragraphs explain how to interpret the text formatting for
those commands and other instructions:
Arrow Keys
The arrow keys control a horizontal line depth cursor on the sonar
screen. The arrow keys also help you move around the menus so you
can execute different commands. They are represented by symbols like
these, which denote the down arrow key, the up arrow, the left arrow
and the right arrow: ↓ ↑ ← →.
Keyboard
The other keys perform a variety of functions. When the text refers to a
key to press, the key is shown in bold, sans serif type. For example, the
"Enter/Icons" key is shown as
.
MENU
and the "Menu" key is shown as
ENT
Menu Commands
a menu command or a menu option will appear in small capital letters,
in a bold sans serif type like this:
EPTH CURSOR
D
. These indicate that you
are to select this command or option from a menu or take an action of
some kind with the menu item. Text that you may need to enter or file
names you need to select are show in italic type, such as data type.
Instructions = Menu Sequences
Most functions you perform with the sonar unit are described as a sequence of key strokes and selecting menu commands. We've written
them in a condensed manner for quick and easy reading.
4
For example, instructions for turning on the Fish ID feature would
look like this:
1. From the Sonar Page, press
2. Press → or → ↓ to
F
ISH
ID S
YMBOLS
|↓ to
MENU
|
ENT|EXIT|EXIT
ONAR FEATURES
S
.
|
ENT
.
Translated into complete English, step 1 above would mean: "Start on
the Sonar Page. Press the Menu key then repeatedly press (or press and
hold) the down arrow key to scroll down the menu and select (highlight)
the Sonar Features menu command. Then press the Enter key."
Step 2 would mean: "Press the right arrow key (for dual-frequency
units) or press the right arrow key followed by the down arrow key (for
single-frequency units) to select (highlight) the Fish ID symbols command. Next, press the Enter key, then press the Exit key twice."
5
Notes
6
Section 2:
Installation & Accessories
Preparations
You can install the sonar system in some other order if you prefer, but
we recommend this installation sequence:
Caution:
You should read over this entire installation section before drilling any holes in your vessel!
1. Determine the approximate location for the sonar unit, so you can
plan how and where to route the cables for the transducer and power.
This will help you make sure you have enough cable length for the desired configuration.
2. Determine the approximate location for the transducer and its cable
route.
3. Determine the location of your battery or other power connection,
along with the power cable route.
4. Install the transducer and route the transducer cable to the sonar
unit.
5. Install the power cable and route it to the sonar unit.
6. Mount the sonar unit.
Transducer Installation
These instructions will help you install your Skimmer
transom, on a trolling motor or inside a hull. These instructions cover
both single- and dual-frequency Skimmer transducers. Please read all
instructions before proceeding with any installation.
The smaller single-frequency Skimmers typically use a one-piece,
stainless steel mounting bracket. The larger dual-frequency Skimmers
typically use a two-piece, plastic mounting bracket. The trolling motor
mount uses a one-piece plastic bracket with an adjustable strap.
These are all "kick-up" mounting brackets. They help prevent damage if
the transducer strikes an object while the boat is moving. If the transducer does "kick-up," the bracket can easily be pushed back into place
without tools.
Read these instructions carefully before attempting the installation.
Determine which of the mounting positions is right for your boat. Use
7
transducer on a
extreme care if mounting the transducer inside the hull, because once it
is epoxied into position, the transducer usually cannot be removed.
Remember, the transducer installation is the most critical part
of a sonar installation.
Recommended Tools and supplies
If you prefer the option of routing the cable through the transom, you
will need a 1" drill bit. a transom mount requires use of a high quality,marine grade above- or below-waterline caulking compound. The following installation types also call for these recommended tools and required supplies (supplies are not included):
Tools: two adjustable wrenches, flat-head screwdriver. Supplies: plastic
cable ties.
Shoot-through hull installations
Tools: these will vary depending on your hull's composition. Consult your
boat dealer or manufacturer. Supplies: 100 grit sandpaper, good quality
epoxy adhesive.
Selecting a Transducer Location
1. The transducer must be placed in a location that has a smooth flow of
water at all times. If the transducer is to be mounted inside the hull,
then the chosen location must be in the water at all times. If the
transducer is not placed in a smooth flow of water, interference
caused by bubbles and turbulence will show on the sonar's display in
the form of random lines or dots whenever the boat is moving.
NOTE:
Some aluminum boats with strakes or ribs on the outside of the
hull create large amounts of turbulence at high speed. These boats
typically have large outboard motors capable of propelling the boat
at speeds faster than 35 mph. Typically, a good location on aluminum boats is between the ribs closest to the engine.
2. The transducer should be installed with its face pointing straight
down, if possible.
8
3. If the transducer is mounted on the transom, make sure it doesn't
interfere with the trailer or hauling of the boat. Also, don't mount it
closer than approximately one foot from the engine's lower unit. This
will prevent cavitation (bubble) interference with propeller operation.
4. If possible, route the transducer cable away from other wiring on the
boat. Electrical noise from engine wiring, bilge pumps and aerators
can be displayed on the sonar's screen. Use caution when routing the
transducer cable around these wires.
CAUTION: Clamp the transducer cable to transom near
the transducer. This will help
prevent the transducer from
entering the boat if it is
knocked off at high speed.
Good location
Poor location
Good
location
Poor angle
Good and poor transducer locations.
Good location
How low should you go?
For most situations, you should install your Skimmer transducer so
that its centerline is level with the bottom of the boat hull. This will
usually give you the best combination of smooth water flow and protection from bangs and bumps.
Transducer
centerline
Align transducer centerline with hull bottom.
Transom
Hull bottom
However, there are times when you may need to adjust the transducer
slightly higher or lower. (The slots in the mounting brackets allow you
to loosen the screws and slide the transducer up or down.) If you fre-
9
quently lose bottom signal lock while running at high speed, the transducer may be coming out of the water as you cross waves or wakes.
Move the transducer a little lower to help prevent this.
If you cruise or fish around lots of structure and cover, your transducer
may be frequently kicking up from object strikes. If you wish, you may
move the transducer a little higher for more protection.
There are two extremes you should avoid. Never let the edge of the
mounting bracket extend below the bottom of the hull. Never let the
bottom – the face – of the transducer rise above the bottom of the hull.
Shoot-thru-hull vs. Transom Mounting
Typically, shoot-thru-hull installations give excellent high speed operation and good to excellent depth capability. There is no possibility of
damage from floating objects. It can't be knocked off when docking or
loading on the trailer.
However, the shoot-thru-hull installation does have its drawbacks.
First, some loss of sensitivity does occur, even on the best hulls. This
varies from hull to hull, even from different installations on the same
hull. This is caused by differences in hull lay-up and construction.
Second, the transducer angle cannot be adjusted for the best fish
arches. This can be a problem on some hulls that sit with the bow high
when at rest or at slow trolling speeds. Follow the procedure listed in
the shoot-thru-hull installation section at the end of this lesson to determine if you can satisfactorily shoot through the hull.
TRANSOM TRANSDUCER ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING
The best way to install these transducers is to loosely assemble all of the
parts first, place the transducer's bracket against the transom and see if
you can move the transducer so that it's parallel with the ground.
The following instructions sometimes vary depending on the mounting
bracket that came with your transducer. Single-frequency Skimmers
come with a one-piece stainless steel bracket, while dual-frequency
Skimmers come with a two-piece plastic mounting bracket. Use the set of
instructions that fits your model.
1. Assembling the bracket.
A. One-piece bracket: Press the two small plastic ratchets into the
sides of the metal bracket as shown in the following illustration. Notice
there are letters molded into each ratchet. Place each ratchet into the
bracket with the letter "a" aligned with the dot stamped into the metal
bracket. This position sets the transducer's coarse angle adjustment for a
14° transom. Most outboard and stern-drive transoms have a 14° angle.
10
Dot
Align plastic ratchets in bracket.
B.Two-piece bracket: Locate the four plastic ratchets in the transducer's hardware package. Press two ratchets into the sides of the plastic bracket and two on either side of the transducer as shown in the following illustrations. Notice there are letters molded into each ratchet.
Place the ratchets into the bracket with the letter "a" aligned with the
alignment mark molded into the bracket. Place the ratchets onto the
transducer with the letter "a" aligned with the 12 o'clock position on
the transducer stem. These positions set the transducer's coarse angle
adjustment for a 14° transom. Most outboard and stern-drive transoms have a 14° angle.
Alignment letters
Alignment
positions
Transducer
Transducer bracket
Insert and align ratchets.
11
Transducer
bracket
Transducer
Ratchet
Add ratchets to bracket and transducer.
Ratchet
2. Aligning the transducer on the transom.
A. One-piece bracket: Slide the transducer between the two ratch-
ets. Temporarily slide the bolt though the transducer assembly and
hold it against the transom. Looking at the transducer from the side,
check to see if it will adjust so that its face is parallel to the ground.
If it does, then the "a" position is correct for your hull.
If the transducer's face isn't parallel with the ground, remove the
transducer and ratchets from the bracket. Place the ratchets into the
holes in the bracket with the letter "B" aligned with the dot stamped
in the bracket.
Reassemble the transducer and bracket and place them against the
transom. Again, check to see if you can move the transducer so it's
parallel with the ground. If you can, then go to step 3A. If it doesn't,
repeat step 2A, but use a different alignment letter until you can
place the transducer on the transom correctly.
Ratchets
Insert bolt and check transducer position on transom.
12
B. Two-piece bracket: Assemble the transducer and bracket as shown
in the following figure. Temporarily slide the bolt though the transducer
assembly but don't tighten the nut at this time. Hold the assembled
transducer and bracket against the transom. Looking at the transducer
from the side, check to see if it will adjust so that its face is parallel to
the ground. If it does, then the "a" positions are correct for your hull.
If the transducer's face isn't parallel with the ground, remove and
disassemble the transducer and ratchets. Place the ratchets into the
bracket holes with the letter "B" aligned with the bracket alignment
mark. Place them on the transducer aligned with the 12 o'clock position on the transducer stem.
Reassemble the transducer and bracket and place them against the
transom. Again, check to see if you can move the transducer so it's
parallel with the ground. If you can, then go to step 3B. If it doesn't,
repeat step 2B, but use a different alignment letter until you can
place the transducer on the transom correctly.
Bolt
Flat washer
Assemble transducer and bracket.
Lock washer
Nut
Flat washer
3. Assembling the transducer.
A. One-piece bracket: Once you determine the correct position for
the ratchets, assemble the transducer as shown in the following figure. Don't tighten the lock nut at this time.
Metal
Nut
Rubber
washers
Assemble transducer and bracket.
washer
Metal washer
Bolt
13
B. Two-piece bracket: Once you determine the correct position for
the ratchets, assemble the transducer as shown in the figure in step
2B. Don't tighten the lock nut at this time.
4. Drilling mounting holes.
Hold the transducer and bracket assembly against the transom. The
transducer should be roughly parallel to the ground. The transducer's centerline should be in line with the bottom of the hull. Don't
let the bracket extend below the hull!
Mark the center of each slot for the mounting screw pilot holes. You
will drill one hole in the center of each slot.
Drill the holes. For the one-piece bracket, use the #29 bit (for the #10
screws). For the two-piece bracket, use the #20 bit (for the #12 screws).
Transom
Transom
Position transducer mount on transom and mark mounting holes.
Side view shown at left and seen from above at right.
5. Attaching transducer to transom.
A. One-piece bracket: Remove the transducer from the bracket and
re-assemble it with the cable passing through the bracket over the
bolt as shown in the following figures.
For single-frequency Skimmer, route cable over bolt and through
bracket. Side view shown at left and seen from above at right.
14
Both bracket types: Attach the transducer to the transom. Slide the
transducer up or down until it's aligned properly with the bottom of
the hull as shown in the preceding and following figures. Tighten the
bracket's mounting screws, sealing them with the caulking compound.
Adjust the transducer so that it's parallel to the ground and tighten
the nut until it touches the outer washer, then add 1/4 turn. Don'tover tighten the lock nut! If you do, the transducer won't "kick-up" if
it strikes an object in the water.
Bottom
of
hull
Flat-bottom hullDeep-"vee" hull
Align transducer centerline with hull bottom and attach transducer to
transom. Rear view of dual-frequency Skimmer shown.
6. Route the transducer cable through or over the transom to the sonar
unit. Make sure to leave some slack in the cable at the transducer. If
possible, route the transducer cable away from other wiring on the
boat. Electrical noise from the engine's wiring, bilge pumps, VHF radio
wires and cables, and aerators can be picked up by the sonar. Use caution when routing the transducer cable around these wires.
WARNING:
Clamp the transducer cable to the transom close to the
transducer. This can prevent the transducer from entering the boat if it is knocked off at high speed.
If you need to drill a hole in the transom to pass the connector through,
the required hole size will be 1".
Caution:
If you drill a hole in the transom for the cable, make sure it is located above the waterline. After installation, be sure to seal the
hole with the same marine grade above- or below-waterline sealant used for the mounting screws.
15
7. Make a test run to determine the results. If the bottom is lost at
high speed, or if noise appears on the display, try sliding the transducer bracket down. This puts the transducer deeper into the water,
hopefully below the turbulence causing the noise. Don't allow the
transducer bracket to go below the bottom of the hull!
TROLLING MOTOR BRACKET INSTALLATION
(single-frequency only)
1. Attach the optional TMB-S bracket to the transducer as shown in the
following figure, using the hardware supplied with the transducer.
(Note: The internal tooth washer is supplied with the TMB-S.)
TMB-S bracket
Bolt
Internal tooth washer
Nut
Flat washer
Attach motor mounting bracket to transducer.
2. Slide the adjustable strap supplied with the TMB-S through the slot
in the transducer bracket and wrap it around the trolling motor. Position the transducer to aim straight down when the motor is in the
water. Tighten the strap securely.
3. Route the transducer cable alongside the trolling motor shaft. Use
plastic ties (not included) to attach the transducer cable to the trolling motor shaft. Make sure there is enough slack in the cable for the
motor to turn freely. Route the cable to the sonar unit and the transducer is ready for use.
Transducer mounted on trolling motor, side view.
16
TRANSDUCER ORIENTATION AND FISH ARCHES
If you do not get good fish arches on your display, it could be because
the transducer is not parallel with the ground when the boat is at rest
in the water or at slow trolling speeds.
Partial fish arches
Transducer aimed
too far back
Transducer aimed
too far forward
Full fish arch
Proper transducer angle
Transducer angles and their effects on fish arches.
If the arch slopes up – but not back down – then the front of the transducer is too high and needs to be lowered. If only the back half of the
arch is printed, then the nose of the transducer is angled too far down
and needs to be raised.
NOTE:
Periodically wash the transducer's face with soap and water to remove any oil film. Oil and dirt on the face will reduce the sensitivity
or may even prevent operation.
SHOOT-THRU-HULL PREPARATION
The transducer installation inside a fiberglass hull must be in an area
that does not have air bubbles in the resin or separated fiberglass layers. The sonar signal must pass through solid fiberglass. a successful
17
transducer installation can be made on hulls with flotation materials
(such as plywood, balsa wood or foam) between layers of fiberglass if
the material is removed from the chosen area.
Fill with epoxy
Flotation material
Inner hull
Epoxy to hull first
Epoxy the transducer to a solid portion of the hull.
Outer hull
For example, some (but not all) manufacturers use a layer of fiberglass,
then a core of balsa wood, finishing with an outer layer of fiberglass.
Removing the inner layer of fiberglass and the balsa wood core exposes
the outer layer of fiberglass. The transducer can then be epoxied directly to the outer layer of fiberglass. After the epoxy cures, the hull is
watertight and structurally sound. Remember, the sonar signal must
pass through solid fiberglass. Any air bubbles in the fiberglass or the
epoxy will reduce or eliminate the sonar signals.
WARNING:
Do not remove any material from your inner hull unless
you know the hull's composition. Careless grinding or
cutting on your hull can result in damage that could sink
your boat. Contact your boat dealer or manufacturer to
confirm your hull specifications.
To choose the proper location for thru-hull mounting, anchor the boat in
60 feet of water. Add a little water to the sump of the boat. Plug the
transducer into the sonar unit, turn it on, then hold the transducer over
the side of the boat. Adjust the sensitivity and range controls until a second bottom echo is seen on the display. (You will need to turn off both
automatic and ASP.) Don't touch the controls once they've been set.
Next, take the transducer out of the water and place it in the water in
the sump of the boat. Observe the sonar signal to see if there is a noticeable decrease in sensitivity. The second bottom signal may disappear and the bottom signal may decrease in intensity.
Move the transducer around to find the best location. If the sensitivity
control must be increased greatly to compensate, then the transducer
should be mounted on the outside of the hull. If not, then mark the lo-
18
cation that shot through the hull the best and follow the instructions on
the following pages for a shoot-thru-hull mounting.
Transducer location
(high speed)
Shoot-thru-hull transducer locations for
high speed or trolling speed operation.
Transducer location
(trolling speed)
Shoot-thru-hull Installation
1. Make sure the area is clean, dry and free of oil or grease, then sand
both the inside surface of the hull and the face of the transducer with
100 grit sandpaper. The surface of the hull must be flat so the entire
transducer face is in contact with the hull prior to bonding.
Spread epoxy here
Sand this surface
Epoxy transducer to hull.
2. Follow the instructions on the epoxy package and mix it thoroughly.
Do not mix it too fast, because it will cause bubbles to form in the epoxy. Apply a small amount on the face of the transducer as shown
above, then spread a small amount onto the sanded area on the hull.
19
Place the transducer into the epoxy, twisting and turning it to force
any air bubbles out from under the transducer face. The face of the
transducer should be parallel with the hull, with a minimum amount
of epoxy between the hull and transducer. After the epoxy dries,
route the cable to the sonar unit.
Speed/Temperature Sensors
This unit accepts up to three temperature sensors which can monitor
surface water, live well, bait well and virtually any other temperature.
If you want to use more than one temperature sensor or a speed sensor,
you must purchase the optional MY-4X adapter cable. You also need to
be careful when purchasing the temperature sensors, because each
temperature sensor has its own fixed electronic "address." The sensors
are labeled "Water," "T-2" (or Temp-2) and "T-3" (or Temp-3).
The first "Water" temperature sensor is built into the transducer. This
is the sensor that measures surface water temperature. If you want two
(or more) temperature readings from other locations, you'll need to use
the proper sensors. For example, you can't use two additional T-3 sensors. The sensors that fit this unit are:
•TS-1XThis sensor will over-ride the temperature sensor
built into the transducer and over-ride the temperature sensor in a ST-TGY combination sensor. (This sensor is not recommended.)
• TS-2XOne sensor for "T-2" temperature display.
• TS-3XOne sensor for "T-3" temperature display.
• SP-XOne speed sensor for "Speed" display.
• ST-TGYThis combination sensor will provide speed and
temperature readings, but the temperature
reading will be displayed as the "Water" temperature because it will over-ride the temperature sensor in the transducer. (This sensor is
not recommended.)
See the wiring diagram on the following page for temperature and
speed sensor combinations.
20
MY-4X
Cable
Three-temperature
sensor installation
Sensor Chart
Sonar unit
rear view
Two-temperature
sensor installation
Temperature
sensor built into
transducer
TS-2X
temperature sensor
TS-3X
temperature sensor
Three-temperature sensor
installation with speed
SP-X speed sensor
21
Optional Speed Sensor Installation
All the units in this series can display speed and distance traveled, but
only the X88DF and X98DF come packed with a speed sensor. If you
wish to purchase an optional additional sensor for your unit, refer to
the accessory ordering information inside the back cover of this manual. The following instructions describe how to install the speed sensor.
Recommended tools for this job include: drill, 7/8" drill bit, 1/8" drill bit for
pilot holes, screwdriver. Required supplies for this job include: four #8
stainless steel wood screws (3/4" long), high quality, marine grade aboveor below-waterline caulking compound.
First find a location on the boat's transom where the water flow is smoothest. Don't mount the sensor behind strakes or ribs. These will disturb the
water flow to the speed sensor. Make sure the sensor will remain in the
water when the boat is on plane. Also make sure the location doesn't interfere with the boat's trailer. Typically, the sensor is mounted about one foot
to the side of the transom's centerline.
Once you've determined the proper location for the unit, place the sensor on the transom. The bottom of the bracket should be flush with the
hull's bottom. Using the sensor as a template, mark the hull for the
screws' pilot holes. Drill four 1/8" holes, one in each end of the slots.
Mount the sensor to the hull using #8 stainless steel wood screws (not
included). Use a high quality, marine grade above- or below-waterline
caulking compound to seal the screws. Make sure the sensor is flush
with the bottom of the hull and tighten the screws.
Good location
Stern view showing good location for mounting sensor on transom.
Transom
Bottom of hull
Speed sensor mounting configuration:
side view (left) and rear view (right.)
Bottom of hull
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If the base of the transom has a radius, fill the gap between the transom and the sensor with the caulking compound. This will help ensure
a smooth water flow.
Route the sensor's cable through or over the transom to the sonar unit.
If you need to drill a hole in the transom to pass the connector through,
the required hole size is 7/8".
Caution:
If you drill a hole in the transom for the cable, make sure it is located above the waterline. After installation, be sure to seal the
hole with the same marine grade above- or below-waterline sealant used for the screws.
The sensor is now ready for use. Connect the sensor to the in-line connector on the MY-4X adapter cable. If you have any questions concerning the installation of the sensor, please contact your local boat dealer.
Power Connections
The unit works from a 12-volt battery system. For the best results, attach the power cable directly to the battery. You can attach the power
cable to an accessory or power buss, however you may have problems
with electrical interference. Therefore, it's safer to go ahead and attach
the power cable directly to the battery.
CAUTION:
When using the unit in a saltwater environment, we strongly recommend that you shut off the power supply to the power cable when
the unit is not in use. When the unit is turned off but still connected
to a power supply, electrolysis can occur in the power cable plug.
This may result in corrosion of the plug body along with the electrical contacts in the cable and the unit's power socket.
In saltwater environments we recommend you connect the power
cable to the auxiliary power switch included in most boat designs.
If that results in electrical interference, or if such a switch is not
available, we recommend connecting direct to the battery and installing an inline switch. This will let you shut off power to the
power cable when the unit is not in use. When you are not using
the unit, you should always shut off power to the power cable, especially when the power cable is disconnected from the unit.
If possible, keep the power cable away from other boat wiring, especially the engine's wires. This will provide the best isolation from electrical noise. If the cable is not long enough, splice #18 gauge wire onto
it. The power cable has two wires, red and black. Red is the positive
23
lead, black is negative or ground. Make sure to attach the in-line fuse
p
holder to the red lead as close to the power source as possible.
For example, if you have to extend the power cable to the battery or
power buss, attach one end of the fuse holder directly to the battery or
power buss. This will protect both the unit and the power cable in the
event of a short. It uses a 3-amp fuse.
Optional power off switch for
saltwater installations
To unit
Black wire
12 volt
battery
Power connections for the sonar unit.
Red wire with
3 am
fuse
CAUTION:
Do not use this product without a 3-amp fuse wired into the power
cable! Failure to use a 3-amp fuse will void your warranty.
This unit has reverse polarity protection. No damage will occur if the
power wires are reversed. However, the unit will not work until the
wires are attached correctly.
An optional 8-foot, CA-4 external power cable with a cigarette lighter
adapter is available from Lowrance.
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