is a registered trademark of Lowrance Electronics, Inc.
Marine-Tex is a trademark of Illinois Tool Works Inc.
Lowrance Electronics may find it necessary to change or end our
policies, regulations, and special offers at any time. We reserve the
right to do so without notice. All features and specifications subject to
change without notice. All screens in this manual are simulated.
Warranty and Service Information ..................................... 73
ii
Introduction
Thank you for buying a Lowrance sonar! Your unit is a high-quality,
remarkably-priced color sonar designed for both professional and novice
fishermen. All Lowrance sonars have an automatic mode that finds and
displays the bottom, fish, underwater structure and more – right out of
the box. All you have to do is press the on (
MENU/PWR
) key.
However, if you want to fine-tune your unit, press the
The X67C has several powerful features you can control by scrolling
through easy-to-use menus with the arrow and menu keys.
To get started with your Lowrance sonar, first read the installation section. It contains instructions for mounting the sonar unit, the transducer and any optional accessories, such as a speed sensor.
Following recommended installation practices will pay off in optimum
performance of your X67C. Improper installation can cause problems
down the road, especially if the transducer is badly mounted.
After you've read the installation instructions, install the unit and accessories. Then, read the rest of the manual. The more you know about
your sonar, the better it will work for you.
Take advantage of the Simulator feature. It allows you to practice operating your sonar before you get it in the water. And when you finally
head for your favorite fishing hole, take this manual along for reference.
MENU
key again.
Capabilities and Specifications: X67C
General
Case size:......................... 5.8" H x 4.3" W x 2.5" D (14.7 cm H x 10.8 cm
W x 6.6 cm D) sealed, waterproof; suitable for
saltwater use.
Resolution:...................... 320 pixels (vert.) x 240 pixel (horiz.) resolu-
tion; 153,600 total pixels
Backlighting:.................. Backlit screen and keypad for night use.
Input power:................... 10 to 17 volts DC.
Current drain: ............... 200 ma lights off; 250 ma lights on.
Back-up memory: .......... Built-in memory stores sonar settings when
unit is turned off.
1
Sonar
Frequency:...................... 200 kHz.
Transducers: .................. A model HST-WSU Skimmer
transducer
comes packed with your sonar unit. Operates
at speeds up to 70 mph (61 kts). Optional thruhull, portable and trolling motor transducers
are available.
Transmitter: ................... 800 watts peak-to-peak power (typical); 100
watts RMS power (typical).
Sonar sounding
depth capability: ........... 600 feet (182 meters). Actual capability de-
pends on transducer configuration and installation, bottom composition and water conditions. All sonar units typically read deeper
in fresh water than in salt water.
Depth display:................ Continuous digital readout.
Audible alarms: ............. Deep/shallow/fish.
Automatic ranging:....... Yes, with instant screen updates.
Zoom bottom track: ...... Yes.
Split-screen zoom:......... Yes.
Surface water temp: ..... Yes, built into transducer. Optional addi-
tional temp sensors for live well, bait well,
etc. are available.
Speed/distance log: ....... Yes, with optional speed sensor.
NOTICE!
The storage and operation temperature for your unit is from -4 degrees to +167 degrees Fahrenheit (-20 degrees to +75 degrees Celsius). Extended storage in temperatures higher or lower than specified will damage the liquid crystal display in your unit. This type of
damage is not covered by the warranty. For more information, contact the factory's Customer Service Department; phone numbers
are inside the manual's back cover.
How Sonar Works
Sonar has been around since the 1940s, so if you already know how it
works, skip ahead to the next segment on the typographical conventions
used in this manual. But, if you've never owned a sonar fish finder, this
segment will tell you the underwater basics.
Sonar is an abbreviation for SOund NA
ogy developed during World War II for tracking enemy submarines.
vigation and Ranging, a technol-
2
(Lowrance developed the world's first transistorized sportfishing sonar in
1957.) A sonar consists of a transmitter, transducer, receiver and display. In simple terms, here's how it finds the bottom, or the fish:
The transmitter emits an electrical impulse, which the transducer converts into a sound wave and sends into the water. (The sound frequency
can't be heard by humans or fish.) The sound wave strikes an object
(fish, structure, bottom) and bounces back to the transducer, which
converts the sound back into an electrical signal.
The receiver amplifies this return signal, or echo, and sends it to the
display, where an image of the object appears on the scrolling sonar
chart. The sonar's microprocessor calculates the time lapse between the
transmitted signal and echo return to determine the distance to the
object. The whole process repeats itself several times each second.
How to use this manual: typographical conventions
Many instructions are listed as numbered steps. The keypad and arrow
"keystrokes" appear as boldface type. So, if you're in a real hurry (or
just need a reminder), you can skim the instructions and pick out what
menu command to use by finding the boldface command text. The following paragraphs explain how to interpret the text formatting for
those commands and other instructions:
Arrow Keys
The arrow keys control a horizontal line depth cursor on the sonar
screen. The arrow keys also help you move around the menus so you
can execute different commands. They are represented by symbols like
these, which denote the down arrow key and the up arrow: ↓ ↑.
Keyboard
The other keys perform a variety of functions. When the text refers to a
key to press, the key is shown in bold, sans serif type. For example, the
"Enter/Pages" key is shown as
as
MENU
.
and the "Menu/Power" key is shown
ENT
Menu Commands
A menu command or a menu option will appear in small capital letters,
in a bold sans serif type like this:
D
EPTH CURSOR
. These indicate that you
are to select this command or option from a menu or take an action of
some kind with the menu item. Text that you may need to enter or file
names you need to select are show in italic type, such as data type.
3
Instructions = Menu Sequences
Most functions you perform with the sonar unit are described as a sequence of key strokes and selecting menu commands. We've written
them in a condensed manner for quick and easy reading.
For example, instructions for turning on the Fish ID feature would
look like this:
1. From the Sonar Page, press
2. Press ↓ to
F
ISH
ID S
YMBOLS
|
ENT|EXIT|EXIT
MENU
|↓ to
S
ONAR FEATURES
.
|
ENT
.
Translated into complete English, step 1 above would mean: "Start on
the Sonar Page. Press the Menu key then repeatedly press (or press and
hold) the down arrow key to scroll down the menu and select (highlight)
the Sonar Features menu command. Then press the Enter key."
Step 2 would mean: "Press the down arrow key to select (highlight) the
Fish ID symbols command. Next, press the Enter key, then press the
Exit key twice."
4
Installation and Accessories
Installation Preparations
You can install the sonar system in some other order if you prefer, but
we recommend this installation sequence:
Caution:
You should read over this entire installation section before drilling any holes in your vessel!
1. Determine the approximate location for the sonar unit, so you can
plan how and where to route the cables for the transducer and power.
This will help you make sure you have enough cable length for the desired configuration.
2. Determine the approximate location for the transducer and its cable
route.
3. Determine the location of your battery or other power connection,
along with the power cable route.
4. Install the transducer and route the transducer cable to the sonar
unit.
5. Install the power cable and route it to the sonar unit.
6. Mount the sonar unit.
Transducer Installation
These instructions will help you install your Skimmer
transom, on a trolling motor or inside a hull.
transducer on a
Your Skimmer transducer typically comes packaged with a one-piece
stainless steel bracket for mounting it to the transom of your boat. The
optional trolling motor mount uses a one-piece plastic bracket with an
adjustable strap. These are "kick-up" mounting brackets. They help prevent damage if the transducer strikes an object while the boat is moving.
If the transducer does "kick-up," the bracket can easily be pushed back
into place without tools.
Read these instructions carefully before attempting the installation.
Determine which of the installation methods is right for your boat.
Remember, the transducer installation is the most critical part
of a sonar installation.
Recommended Tools and supplies
If you prefer the option of routing the cable through the transom, you
will need a drill and a 5/8" drill bit. (If you intend to install an additional
5
speed or temp sensor and route its cable through the same hole in the
transom, you will need a 1" (25.4 mm) drill bit to accommodate all the
cables.) The following installation types also call for these recommended
tools and required supplies (supplies are not included):
Transom installation
Tools include: two adjustable wrenches, drill, #29 (0.136") drill bit, flathead screwdriver. Supplies: high quality, marine grade above- or belowwaterline caulking compound.
Trolling motor installations
Tools: two adjustable wrenches, flat-head screwdriver. Supplies: plastic
cable ties.
Shoot-through hull installations
Tools: these will vary depending on your hull's composition. Consult your
boat dealer or manufacturer. Supplies: 100 grit sandpaper, good quality
epoxy adhesive.
Selecting a Transducer Location
1. The transducer must be placed in a location that has a smooth flow of
water at all times. If the transducer is to be mounted inside the hull,
then the chosen location must be in the water at all times. If the
transducer is not placed in a smooth flow of water, interference
caused by bubbles and turbulence will show on the sonar's display in
the form of random lines or dots whenever the boat is moving.
NOTE:
Some aluminum boats with strakes or ribs on the outside of the
hull create large amounts of turbulence at high speed. These boats
typically have large outboard motors capable of propelling the boat
at speeds faster than 35 mph. Typically, a good location on aluminum boats is between the ribs closest to the engine.
2. The transducer should be installed with its face pointing straight
down, if possible.
3. If the transducer is mounted on the transom, make sure it doesn't
interfere with the trailer or hauling of the boat. Also, don't mount it
closer than approximately one foot from the engine's lower unit. This
will prevent cavitation (bubble) interference with propeller operation.
4. If possible, route the transducer cable away from other wiring on the
boat. Electrical noise from engine wiring, bilge pumps and aerators
can be displayed on the sonar's screen. Use caution when routing the
transducer cable around these wires.
6
CAUTION: Clamp the transducer cable to transom near
the transducer. This will help
prevent the transducer from
entering the boat if it is
knocked off at high speed.
Good location
Poor location
Good
location
Poor angle
Good and poor transducer locations.
Good location
How low should you go?
For most situations, you should install your Skimmer transducer so
that its centerline is level with the bottom of the boat hull. This will
usually give you the best combination of smooth water flow and protection from bangs and bumps.
Transducer
centerline
Align transducer centerline with hull bottom.
Transom
Hull bottom
However, there are times when you may need to adjust the transducer
slightly higher or lower. (The slots in the mounting brackets allow you
to loosen the screws and slide the transducer up or down.) If you frequently lose bottom signal lock while running at high speed, the transducer may be coming out of the water as you cross waves or wakes.
Move the transducer a little lower to help prevent this.
If you cruise or fish around lots of structure and cover, your transducer
may be frequently kicking up from object strikes. If you wish, you may
move the transducer a little higher for more protection.
There are two extremes you should avoid. Never let the edge of the
mounting bracket extend below the bottom of the hull. Never let the
bottom – the face – of the transducer rise above the bottom of the hull.
7
Shoot-thru-hull vs. Transom Mounting
Typically, shoot-thru-hull installations give excellent high speed operation and good to excellent depth capability. There is no possibility of
damage from floating objects. It can't be knocked off when docking or
loading on the trailer.
However, the shoot-thru-hull installation does have its drawbacks.
First, some loss of sensitivity does occur, even on the best hulls. This
varies from hull to hull, even from different installations on the same
hull. This is caused by differences in hull lay-up and construction.
Second, the transducer angle cannot be adjusted for the best fish
arches. This can be a problem on some hulls that sit with the bow high
when at rest or at slow trolling speeds. Follow the procedure listed in
the shoot-thru-hull installation section at the end of this segment to
determine if you can satisfactorily shoot through the hull.
TRANSOM TRANSDUCER ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING
The best way to install the transducer is to loosely assemble all of the
parts first, place the transducer's bracket against the transom and see if
you can move the transducer so that it's parallel with the ground.
1. Assembling the bracket. Press the two small plastic ratchets into the
sides of the metal bracket as shown in the following illustration. Notice
there are letters molded into each ratchet. Place each ratchet into the
bracket with the letter "A" aligned with the dot stamped into the metal
bracket. This position sets the transducer's coarse angle adjustment for a
14° transom. Most outboard and stern-drive transoms have a 14° angle.
Dot
Align plastic ratchets in bracket.
2. Aligning the transducer on the transom. Slide the transducer
between the two ratchets. Temporarily slide the bolt though the
transducer assembly and hold it against the transom. Looking at the
transducer from the side, check to see if it will adjust so that its face
is parallel to the ground. If it does, then the "A" position is correct for
your hull.
If the transducer's face isn't parallel with the ground, remove the
transducer and ratchets from the bracket. Place the ratchets into the
8
holes in the bracket with the letter "B" aligned with the dot stamped
in the bracket.
Reassemble the transducer and bracket and place them against the
transom. Again, check to see if you can move the transducer so it's
parallel with the ground. If you can, then go to step 3. If it doesn't,
repeat step 2, but use a different alignment letter until you can place
the transducer on the transom correctly.
Ratchets
Insert bolt and check transducer position on transom.
3. Assembling the transducer. Once you determine the correct posi-
tion for the ratchets, assemble the transducer as shown in the following figure. Don't tighten the lock nut at this time.
Metal
Nut
washer
Rubber
washers
Assemble transducer and bracket.
Metal washer
Bolt
4. Drilling mounting holes. Hold the transducer and bracket assembly
against the transom. The transducer should be roughly parallel to the
ground. The transducer's centerline should be in line with the bottom
of the hull. Don't let the bracket extend below the hull!
Mark the center of each slot for the mounting screw pilot holes. You
will drill one hole in the center of each slot.
Drill the holes using the #29 bit (for the #10 screws).
9
Transom
Transom
Position transducer mount on transom and mark mounting holes.
Side view shown at left and seen from above at right.
5. Attaching transducer to transom. Remove the transducer from
the bracket and re-assemble it with the cable passing through the
bracket over the bolt as shown in the following figures.
Route cable over bolt and through bracket. Side view shown at left and
seen from above at right.
Attach the transducer to the transom. Slide the transducer up or
down until it's aligned properly with the bottom of the hull as shown
in the preceding and following figures. Tighten the bracket's mounting screws, sealing them with the caulking compound.
Adjust the transducer so that it's parallel to the ground and tighten
the nut until it touches the outer washer, then add 1/4 turn. Don'tover tighten the lock nut! If you do, the transducer won't "kick-up" if
it strikes an object in the water.
Bottom
of
hull
Flat-bottom hull
Align transducer centerline with hull bottom and attach to transom.
Deep-"vee" hull
10
6. Route the transducer cable through or over the transom to
the sonar unit. Make sure to leave some slack in the cable at the
transducer. If possible, route the transducer cable away from other
wiring on the boat. Electrical noise from the engine's wiring, bilge
pumps, VHF radio wires and cables, and aerators can be picked up by
the sonar. Use caution when routing the transducer cable around
these wires.
WARNING:
Clamp the transducer cable to the transom close to the
transducer. This can prevent the transducer from entering the boat if it is knocked off at high speed.
If you need to drill a hole in the transom to pass the connector through,
the required hole size is 5/8". (If you intend to route an additional speed
or temp sensor cable through the same hole, you will need a 1" (25.4 mm)
drill bit instead.)
Caution:
If you drill a hole in the transom for the cable, make sure it is located above the waterline. After installation, be sure to seal the
hole with the same marine grade above- or below-waterline sealant used for the mounting screws.
7. Make a test run to determine the results. If the bottom is lost at
high speed, or if noise appears on the display, try sliding the transducer bracket down. This puts the transducer deeper into the water,
hopefully below the turbulence causing the noise. Don't allow the
transducer bracket to go below the bottom of the hull!
TROLLING MOTOR BRACKET INSTALLATION
1. Attach the optional TMB-S bracket to the transducer as shown in the
following figure, using the hardware supplied with the transducer.
(Note: The internal tooth washer is supplied with the TMB-S.)
Bolt
Internal tooth washer
Nut
TMB-S bracket
Flat washer
Attach motor mounting bracket to transducer.
2. Slide the adjustable strap supplied with the TMB-S through the slot
in the transducer bracket and wrap it around the trolling motor. Position the transducer to aim straight down when the motor is in the
water. Tighten the strap securely.
11
3. Route the transducer cable alongside the trolling motor shaft. Use
plastic ties (not included) to attach the transducer cable to the trolling motor shaft. Make sure there is enough slack in the cable for the
motor to turn freely. Route the cable to the sonar unit and the transducer is ready for use.
Transducer mounted on trolling motor, side view.
TRANSDUCER ORIENTATION AND FISH ARCHES
If you do not get good fish arches on your display, it could be because
the transducer is not parallel with the ground when the boat is at rest
in the water or at slow trolling speeds.
Transducer aimed
too far back
Full fish arch
Transducer angles and their effects on fish arches.
Partial fish arches
Proper transducer angle
12
Transducer aimed
too far forward
If the arch slopes up – but not back down – then the front of the transducer is too high and needs to be lowered. If only the back half of the
arch is printed, then the nose of the transducer is angled too far down
and needs to be raised.
NOTE:
Periodically wash the transducer's face with soap and water to remove any oil film. Oil and dirt on the face will reduce the sensitivity
or may even prevent operation.
SHOOT-THRU-HULL PREPARATION
The transducer installation inside a fiberglass hull must be in an area
that does not have air bubbles in the resin or separated fiberglass layers. The sonar signal must pass through solid fiberglass. A successful
transducer installation can be made on hulls with flotation materials
(such as plywood, balsa wood or foam) between layers of fiberglass if
the material is removed from the chosen area.
Fill with epoxy
Flotation material
Inner hull
Epoxy to hull first
Epoxy the transducer to a solid portion of the hull.
Outer hull
For example, some (but not all) manufacturers use a layer of fiberglass,
then a core of balsa wood, finishing with an outer layer of fiberglass.
Removing the inner layer of fiberglass and the balsa wood core exposes
the outer layer of fiberglass. The transducer can then be epoxied directly to the outer layer of fiberglass. After the epoxy cures, the hull is
watertight and structurally sound. Remember, the sonar signal must
pass through solid fiberglass. Any air bubbles in the fiberglass or the
epoxy will reduce or eliminate the sonar signals.
WARNING:
Do not remove any material from your inner hull unless
you know the hull's composition. Careless grinding or
cutting on your hull can result in damage that could sink
your boat. Contact your boat dealer or manufacturer to
confirm your hull specifications.
To choose the proper location for thru-hull mounting, anchor the boat in 60
feet of water. Add a little water to the sump of the boat. Plug the transducer into the sonar unit, turn it on, then hold the transducer over the side
13
of the boat. Adjust the sensitivity and range controls until a second bottom
echo is seen on the display. (You will need to turn off both Automatic Sensitivity and ASP.) Don't touch the controls once they've been set.
Next, take the transducer out of the water and place it in the water in
the sump of the boat. Observe the sonar signal to see if there is a noticeable decrease in sensitivity. The second bottom signal may disappear and the bottom signal may decrease in intensity.
Move the transducer around to find the best location. If the sensitivity
control must be increased greatly to compensate, then the transducer
should be mounted on the outside of the hull. If not, then mark the location that shot through the hull the best and follow the instructions on
the following pages for a shoot-thru-hull mounting.
Transducer location
(high speed)
Shoot-thru-hull transducer locations for
high speed or trolling speed operation.
Transducer location
(trolling speed)
Shoot-thru-hull Installation
1. Make sure the area is clean, dry and free of oil or grease, then sand
both the inside surface of the hull and the face of the transducer with
100 grit sandpaper. The surface of the hull must be flat so the entire
transducer face is in contact with the hull prior to bonding.
2. Follow the instructions on the epoxy package and mix it thoroughly.
Do not mix it too fast, because it will cause bubbles to form in the epoxy. Apply a small amount on the face of the transducer as shown
above, then spread a small amount onto the sanded area on the hull.
14
Spread epoxy here
Sand this surface
Epoxy transducer to hull.
Place the transducer into the epoxy, twisting and turning it to force
any air bubbles out from under the transducer face. The face of the
transducer should be parallel with the hull, with a minimum amount
of epoxy between the hull and transducer. After the epoxy dries, remember to fill in the area around the transducer with more epoxy
and route the cable to the sonar unit.
Speed/Temperature Sensors
The X67C can accept as many as two temperature sensors, which can be
used to monitor the temperature of surface water, a live well or some
other location. These units can accept an optional speed sensor for showing speed and distance traveled. However, you can only use one accessory
at a time. If you would like to use a speed sensor and a secondary temperature sensor at the same time, you will need a combination device.
NOTE:
If a second temp sensor is used, it must be the model TS-2U. This
model has a fixed electronic "address" which designates it as the
second of two temp sensors.
15
Primary temp sensor
built into transducer
TS-2U secondary
external temp sensor
shown as T2
Full Chart page showing dual temperature display.
See the following charts for sample sensor combinations and cable connections.
Sonar unit
rear view
ST-TU combination
speed and temperature
sensor
3-amp fuse
12-volt battery
Power/transducer cable
Sonar unit with external combination speed and temperature sensor.
Primary temp sensor is built into the transducer.
Temperature sensor
built into transducer
HST-WSU
16
Sonar unit
rear view
TS-2U
temperature
sensor
3-amp fuse
12-volt battery
Power/transducer cable
Sonar unit with secondary external temperature sensor. Primary temp
Temperature sensor
built into transducer
sensor is built into the transducer.
Sonar unit
rear view
HST-WSU
Power/transducer cable
The temperature sensor is built into the transducer.
SP-U speed only
sensor
3-amp fuse
12-volt battery
12-volt battery
Temperature sensor
built into transducer
HST-WSU
Sonar unit with external speed sensor.
17
Speed Sensor Installation
If you wish to purchase an optional sensor for your unit, refer to the
accessory ordering information inside the back cover of this manual.
The following instructions describe how to install the speed sensor.
Recommended tools for this job include: drill, 5/8" drill bit, 1/8" drill bit for
pilot holes, screwdriver. Required supplies for this job include: four #8
stainless steel wood screws (3/4" long), high quality, marine grade aboveor below-waterline caulking compound. (If you intend to route the sensor
cable through the same hole as the transducer cable, you will need a 1"
(25.4 mm) drill bit instead of the 5/8" drill bit.)
First find a location on the boat's transom where the water flow is smoothest. Don't mount the sensor behind strakes or ribs. These will disturb the
water flow to the speed sensor. Make sure the sensor will remain in the
water when the boat is on plane. Also make sure the location doesn't interfere with the boat's trailer. Typically, the sensor is mounted about one foot
to the side of the transom's centerline.
Once you've determined the proper location for the unit, place the sensor on the transom. The bottom of the bracket should be flush with the
hull's bottom. Using the sensor as a template, mark the hull for the
screws' pilot holes. Drill four 1/8" holes, one in each end of the slots.
Mount the sensor to the hull using #8 stainless steel wood screws (not
included). Use a high quality, marine grade above- or below-waterline
caulking compound to seal the screws. Make sure the sensor is flush
with the bottom of the hull and tighten the screws.
Good location
Stern view showing good location for mounting sensor on transom.
18
Transom
Bottom of hull
Speed sensor mounting configuration:
side view (left) and rear view (right.)
Bottom of hull
If the base of the transom has a radius, fill the gap between the transom and the sensor with the caulking compound. This will help ensure
a smooth water flow.
Route the sensor's cable through or over the transom to the sonar unit.
If you need to drill a hole in the transom to pass the connector through,
the required hole size is 5/8". (The hole is 1" (25.4 mm) if you intend to
route the sensor cable through the same hole as the transducer cable.)
Caution:
If you drill a hole in the transom for the cable, make sure it is located above the waterline. After installation, be sure to seal the
hole with the same marine grade above- or below-waterline sealant used for the screws.
The sensor is now ready for use. Connect the sensor to the accessory
socket on the back of the unit. If you have any questions concerning the
installation of the sensor, please contact your local boat dealer.
POWER CONNECTIONS
The unit works from a 12-volt battery system. You can attach the
power cable to your boat's accessory or power buss or directly to the
battery. If you use an accessory buss but have problems with electrical
interference, attach the power cable directly to the battery. If the cable
is not long enough, splice #18 gauge wire onto it.
CAUTION:
When using the unit in a saltwater environment, we strongly recommend that you shut off the power supply to the power cable when
the unit is not in use. When the unit is turned off but still connected
to a power supply, electrolysis can occur in the power cable plug.
This may result in corrosion of the plug body along with the electrical contacts in the cable and the unit's power socket.
In saltwater environments we recommend you connect the power
cable to the auxiliary power switch included in most boat designs.
19
If that results in electrical interference, or if such a switch is not
available, we recommend connecting direct to the battery and installing an inline switch. This will let you shut off power to the
power cable when the unit is not in use. When you are not using
the unit, you should always shut off power to the power cable, especially when the power cable is disconnected from the unit.
To unit
Black wire
Power and transducer connections for the X67C sonar
unit (direct battery connection shown).
Optional power off switch
for saltwater installations
12 volt
battery
Red wire with
3 amp fuse
If possible, keep the power cable away from other boat wiring, especially the engine's wires. This will provide the best isolation from electrical noise. The power cable has two wires, red and black. Red is the
positive lead, black is negative or ground. Make sure to attach the inline fuse holder to the red lead as close to the power source as possible.
For example, if you have to extend the power cable to the battery or
power buss, attach one end of the fuse holder directly to the battery or
power buss. This will protect both the unit and the power cable in the
event of a short. It uses a 3-amp fuse.
CAUTION:
Do not use this product without a 3-amp fuse wired into the
power cable! Failure to use a 3-amp fuse will void your warranty.
NOTE:
For more corrosion protection in saltwater or high humidity environments, apply a thin layer of electrical-grade grease to each end
of the fuse before installing it in the fuse holder.
This unit has reverse polarity protection. No damage will occur if the
power wires are reversed. However, the unit will not work until the
wires are attached correctly.
MOUNTING THE SONAR UNIT: In-Dash, Bracket or Portable
You can install the sonar unit on the top of a dash with the supplied
bracket. At the time of this printing, we do not produce an in-dash
mounting kit for the X67C. If you wish to check on the future availabil-
20
Loading...
+ 56 hidden pages
You need points to download manuals.
1 point = 1 manual.
You can buy points or you can get point for every manual you upload.