IMPORTANT - PLEASE READ THIS
MANUAL BEFORE INSTALLING UNIT
CAUTION
Before installation, careful consideration must be given to
how this system will operate if connected to any other piece
of mechanical equipment, i.e. a forced air furnace or air
handler, operating at a higher static. After installation, the
compatibility of the two pieces of equipment must be
confirmed by measuring the airflow’s of the Heat Recovery
Ventilator (HRV) or Energy Recovery Ventilator (ERV) by
using the balancing procedure found in this manual.
It is always important to assess how the operation of any
HRV/ERV may interact with vented combustion equipment
(ie. Gas Furnaces, Oil Furnaces, Wood Stoves, etc.).
NEVER install a ventilator in a situation where its normal
operation, lack of operation or partial failure may result
in the backdrafting or improper functioning of vented
combustion equipment!!!
Installing Contractor
Telephone / Contact
Serial Number
Installation DateModel
* LEAVE FOR HOMEOWNER
NOTE: Due to ongoing research and product development, specifications,
ratings and dimensions are subject to change without notice.
A Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV) is designed to
provide fresh air into a building while exhausting an
equal amount of stale air. During the winter
months, the incoming cold fresh air is warmed by
utilizing the heat recovered from the stale air
before it is exhausted to the outdoors. During
summer months when the indoor space is air
conditioned, the Heat Recovery Ventilator will help
in cooling the incoming fresh air with the stale air
that is being exhausted.
ERV - Enthalpic Paper Core
An Energy Recovery Ventilator (ERV) is designed
to provide fresh air into a building while exhausting
an equal amount of stale air. An ERV is designed
for use in warm humid areas with heavy air
conditioning use. The ERV will transfer both
sensible and latent heat from the incoming fresh air
to the outgoing stale air thereby reducing the load
(due to ventilation) on the air conditioning system.
ERVs are not suitable for climates where the
temperature drops below -4˚C (25˚F).
Installation
Installation
• Location
• Mounting the HRV/ERV
• Electrical
• Installing the Drain Line and "P" Trap
Installing Air Ducts .................................................. 19
• Outside Weatherhoods
• Locating the Weatherhoods
•
Installing Ducting from Weatherhoods to the HRV/ERV
• Warmside Ducting
Supply Air Ducting ..................................................... 20
Stale Air Exhaust System .......................................... 20
Dampers and Grilles .................................................. 20
All Heat Recovery Ventilators carry a Lifetime
Warranty on the heat recovery core and a 5 (five)
year replacement parts warranty.
All Energy Recovery Ventilators carry a 5 (five) year
warranty on the energy recovery core and a 5 (five)
year replacement parts warranty.
During the warranty period, if any core experiences a
failure or perforation caused by normal use while
owned by the original purchaser, a replacement core
(FOB our plant) will be supplied at no expense.
Maintenance
Maintenance Routine For HRV .................................. 27
Maintenance Routine For ERV .................................. 28
The core in an HRV (Heat Recovery Ventilator)
transfers heat from one air stream to the other. This is
called sensible heat. The term ERV (Energy Recovery
Ventilator) is usually used to describe a unit with an
enthalpic core that transfers moisture as well as heat
from one air stream to the other. This (moisture
transfer) is called latent heat.
Enthalpic - what does it mean?
Enthalpy is the term used to describe the energy
content of air. This energy is a combination of the
sensible and latent heat. Therefore, a core which
transfers energy is called an enthalpic core.
Is an ERV better than an HRV?
NOT NECESSARILY!! In cold climates such as most
of North America, an HRV works better than an ERV.
This is because the air inside the home during the
winter months will be more humid than the outside air.
An ERV would transfer the latent heat (humidity) from
the exhaust air back into the incoming airstream. This
will aggravate moisture problems in the home and
encourage the growth of mold and mildew. If the air in
the home is too dry for comfort, an ERV will not help. A
humidifier should be used to increase the humidity to
a comfortable level.
and damp situation. In fact, about 2/3 of the energy
used by the air conditioner system is to remove
moisture. Therefore, when ventilating in the summer,
less moisture brought into the home means less work
for the air conditioner, and energy savings for you.
During the winter, an ERV recovers some humidity
from the exhaust air, reducing the need for humidification
if the required ventilation rate would make the home
too dry.
,
What's the difference between this type of
core and a rotary type?
Here's a list of characteristics of the fixed plate core.
1. No rotating parts, so maintenance is easy and the
unit lasts a long time.
2. It is very flexible in terms of installation.
3. The core can easily be changed.
4. Because the supply and exhaust air streams are
completely separate, there is very little cross
leakage of any dust or germs.
Can the core become clogged with dust?
Because the surface of the core is a turbulent flow
area, dust sticks to it easily; however, because the
inside of the element is a laminar flow area, virtually no
dust sticks to it.
Where do you use an ERV instead
of an HRV?
An ERV is recommended for warm, humid areas with
heavy air conditioning use. As there is no defrost in an
ERV it is not recommended for areas where the
temperature drops below -4˚C (25˚F).
Why transfer moisture in the summer
(cooling season)?
The enthalpic core will allow moisture to be transferred
from a humid air flow to a dry air flow. This property is
useful in the cooling season if an air conditioning
system is used to lower the indoor humidity. You will
then have dry, cool air in the exhaust of the ERV, and
warm humid air in the supply stream. With these
conditions, the ERV will be able to transfer the
moisture and heat of the supply air to the exhaust air.
In this way, the ERV will supply to the home air which
is cooler and drier than outside. Remember that an
ERV is not a dehumidifier, and on its own will not take
moisture out of the air.
So why use an ERV?
A properly operating air conditioner will not only lower
the temperature in your house, but will also lower the
humidity level. This prevents an uncomfortable cold
What is the maintenance?
About once a year you should use a vacuum cleaner
to remove the dust from the core's surface. DO NOT
WASH WITH WATER!!
Is an air filter needed?
To prevent clogging of the core, an air filter should
always be installed on the supply and exhaust sides of
the core.
How much ventilation do I need?
During seasons when your windows and doors are
closed, the ERV should operate continuously when
the dwelling is occupied, and either continuously or
intermittently when not occupied.
For most installations the ERV will normally be set to
operate continuously on low speed with the option of
going to high speed as the need arises. For example;
if you are entertaining and there is a large number of
people present (some may be smoking), the unit
should be switched to high speed.
Your ERV may be equipped with automatic or manual
switches, but all ERVs will have a manual speed
control override.
3
4
Model 95MAX
ENGINEERING DATA
THERMALLY CONDUCTIVE, PATENTED ALUMINUM CORE
The cross-flow heat recovery core transfers heat between the two
airstreams. It is easily removed for cleaning or service.
MOTORS AND BLOWERS
- Each air stream has one centrifugal
blower driven by a common PSC motor. 5 speed fan operation.
120 VAC, .8 Amps.
FILTERS
MOUNTING THE HRV
- Washable air filters in exhaust and supply air streams.
- Four threaded inserts at corners of the
cabinet designed to accept PVC reinforced polyester straps that are
supplied with the unit.
DEFROST
CASE
- Recirculating defrost system.
- Twenty gauge prepainted galvanized steel (G60) for superior
corrosion resistance. Insulated to prevent exterior condensation.
Drain connections 2 - 1/2" (12 mm) OD.
CONTROLS
WEIGHT 52 lbs. (23.6 kg) SHIPPING WEIGHT 56 lbs. (25.4
- ControlAir 15
kg)
DIMENSIONS 95MAX
PERFORMANCE
Net supply airflow in cfm (L/s) against external static pressure
Plugging in the HRV/ERV energizes the unit. A self test
function will be performed every time the HRV/ERV is
energized (refer to “Self Test” for more details). After
the self test has completed successfully the HRV/ERV
will default to Speed 1. This is the factory default
setting. Follow the instructions found on the HRV/ERV
door to select desired mode and speed, or refer to the
instructions found on the following page.
Control Module
Control Pad
ControlAir 15
Exploded view
Self Test
Each time the
test function will automatically initiate. During the self
test the
available (1-5), test the damper motor operation and will
default back to the previous mode/speed selection,
(factory default is Speed 1). Total self test duration is
approximately 1 min. 30 sec.
HRV/ERV
HRV/ERV
is powered/energized the self
will cycle through all the speeds
Automatic Defrost Operation
(Not on all models)
The advanced technology of the digital microprocessor
automatically activates the defrost system only as it is
needed. To be an efficient heat recovery device, the
HRV/ERV must effectively provide for core defrost as well
as providing efficient heat exchange. As outdoor
conditions cool, the temperature sensor (thermistor) tracks
the supply air temperature. The thermistor then sends its
signal to the microprocessor (circuit board) which initiates
only the defrost cycle time required to clear the core. On
recirculating defrost models, the core is defrosted when
the supply air port is automatically blocked off and exhaust
air is redirected back through the HRV/ERV. On damper
defrost models, the core is defrosted when the supply air
port is automatically blocked off and the warm air
surrounding the HRV/ERV is drawn in through the defrost
port. The mode indicator will flash RED during the defrost
cycle. This dramatic advance makes more energy
available for recovery as the unit spends less time in
defrost mode. By optimizing the defrost cycle, the
HRV/ERV combines money saving performance with a
well designed and reliable control system.
Removing and relocating the
Control Pad
The Control Pad can be removed and installed in a
remote location (100’ wire length max). The Control Pad
can be installed in a 2x4 box with a “Decora” type cover
plate or can be installed in the optional “Ventilation
Dehumidistat” or “Air Sentry”. When the Control Pad is
installed in a remote location, all optional controls will still
be wired to the Control Module on the
remotely mounted on its own, the Control Pad is wired to
the Control Module by 3 wire (min. 20 gauge). Connect
the colour coded terminals to the corresponding terminals
on the Control Module. When the Control Pad is remotely
mounted in the Ventilation Dehumidistat or Air Sentry,
refer to optional controls page for wiring requirements.
HRV/ERV
. When
Glossary
DEFROST MODE - to ensure reliable operation during cold
weather, the HRV/ERV will automatically cycle through its
defrost mode as needed. (not on all models)
DEHUMIDISTAT - a control device that senses the amount of
moisture in the air and will activate high speed fan operation
when the air moisture level exceeds the control setting. The
optimum air moisture level (or relative humidity [Rh]) in the
typical home is in the range of 30 to 40% Rh.
RESET - whenever resetting of the HRV/ERV is required,
simply disconnect power for 30 seconds.
STANDBY MODE - the HRV/ERV is energized and waiting for fan
operation to be initiated by a remote device or manual override.
THERMISTOR
measures electrical resistance in a known manner, as
outdoor temperatures fluctuate.
13
- the
HRV/ERV
's temperature sensor which
To select mode of operation for ControlAir 15
Press and hold the fan selection button on the Control Pad. After 5 seconds the control will
begin to cycle each mode holding each for 2 seconds. Release the button when the desired
mode of operation is reached.
Modes of OperationLED Indication
OFFNo LED’s illuminated HRV/ERV is off, no controls will
initiate operation.
Standby / OnSteady Green LED and Yellow LED to indicate speed
HRV/ERV will run at speed selected in ventilation mode.
Standby mode is indicated by no speed indicator
illuminated. Optional remote controls will override standby
or selected speed into high speed.
20 On / 40 OffFlashing Green LED and Yellow LED to indicate speed.
HRV/ERV will operate in ventilation mode at speed selected
for 20 minutes and OFF for 40 minutes.
RecirculationSteady Red LED and Yellow LED to indicate Speed.
*Note: Not available on all models
HRV/ERV
speed. Optional remote controls will override unit into high
speed ventilate mode.
will operate in recirculate mode at the selected
To select speed
Momentarily press fan selection button and release. HRV/ERV will move into next speed.
OFF is indicated by no yellow LED illuminated. Speed 1 is the first yellow LED. Speed five is
indicated by a flashing speed 4 LED.
Automatic Defrost
During cold outdoor conditions the
function, which will prevent ice from forming on the core. Defrost is indicated by a flashing Red
LED indicator.
HRV/ERV
will occasionally go into an automatic defrost
14
ControlAir 15
OPTIONAL REMOTE CONTROLS
PROGRAMMABLE VENTILATION CONTROLLER (PVC)
LOCATION: Hallway, kitchen, office
& work place
(connect 1/unit only)
• Advanced digital remote.
• Digital dehumidistat.
• Full fan speed control.
AIR SENTRY™
•
Recirculation mode (on compatible
•
Air Quality Sensor built-in.
HRV/ERVs).
• 7 day, 24 hour programmable timer.
• Digital display and status lights.
• 100' (30 m) maximum wire length.
PART NO. 99-105
Connects to RED, ORANGE, GREEN and YELLOW terminals.
*NOTE:
This device is NOT compatible with the Air Sentry.
NEW! VENTILATION DEHUMIDISTAT
LOCATION: Central location in house.
• Dehumidistat activates high speed
VENTILATION
DEHUMIDISTAT
over-ride when humidity level in home
exceeds setting.
• Knockout designed to accept Control
Pad when remotely mounted, giving full
HRV/ERV functionality & control from
remote location.
NEW!
AIR SENTRY™ AIR QUALITY SENSOR
LOCATION: Kitchen, basement,
work place
• Digital Air Quality Monitor.
™
ENTRY
S
IR
A
ENSOR
S
UALITY
Q
IR
A
IGITAL
D
• Status light indicates fan speed.
(connect 1/unit only).
• Increases ventilation to remove
odours and contaminants.
• Among gases detected are
FAN SPEED INDICATOR
cigarette smoke and formaldehyde.
• 100' (30 m) maximum wire length.
• Knockout designed to accept Control
Pad when remotely mounted.
PART NO. 99-109
Connects to RED, GREEN and YELLOW terminals.
*NOTE:
This device is NOT compatible with the PVC.
ControlAir 15
Control Module
Control Pad
• All controls wire to
matching colour on
the Control Module.
• Control Pad can be
removed and mounted
in a remote location.
PART NO. 99-250
Connects to BLACK, RED, GREEN and YELLOW terminals.
*Replaces 99-116 DVC & 99-230 VRD.
*Only compatible with ControlAir 15 electronics.
DIGITAL ELECTRONIC TIMER (DET)
LOCATION: Bathrooms & kitchen
Connect up to 8 on 300
•
If a PVC or Air Sentry is used, connect
•
up to 5 on 300
' wire max.
• Touch pad operation.
• 20/40/60 minute status lights.
• Compact wall mount unit.
• Mounts in 2x4 box.
Shown with “decora” cover plate
•
PART NO. 99-104
Connects to RED, GREEN and YELLOW terminals.
' (91 m) wire max.
(99-107W).
•
Control Pad mounts
in a 2”x 4” box or can
be mounted in the
optional Ventilation
Dehumidistat or
Air Sentry.
• Full fan speed control.
•
Three Modes of Operation
- Standby/ON
- 20 ON / 40 OFF
-
Recirculation
(on compatible HRV/ERVs)
*See individual control instructions for more details.
15
0011
USING THE DEHUMIDISTAT
Some models have a built-in dehumidistat (an
optional remote wall mount dehumidistat can be
installed, see Optional Remote Controls), to
control harmful, excess humidity during theheating season. The dehumidistat operates in
% of RH (relative humidity) with 80 being high
and 20 being low. The average person is
comfortable between 30-45%.
The dehumidistat will overide the ventilator to
high speed when the moisture level in the home
exceeds the set point on the control. Once the
humidity in the house is reduced, the HRV/ERV
will revert back to its previous setting.The
dehumidistat should be set to off for all seasons
except the heating season.
Note: If your HRV/ERV is equipped with an internal
and an external dehumidistat, the internal one can be
turned off and not used.
Internal Dehumidistat with External Control Knob
16
DIMENSIONS 95MAX
inches (mm)
24.5"
(622 mm)
18.5"
(470 mm)
Removably
Heat Recovery
Core
Drain Pan
Drain spout
FRONTTOP
knockout for
side mounting of
EXHAUST return port
6" round collar
converted to oval
minimum
18 inches (459 mm)
required for
service access
SIDE
Hanging
straps (4)
16"
(406 mm)
95 MAX Port Specifications
The 95 Max Heat Recovery Ventilator (HRV) has been
designed to allow the installer to choose between two
possible positions on the cabinet for the INDOOR
EXHAUST (return from building) port. Illustrations in this
manual show standard (side mounted) port location . The
same specifications apply to both 95 Max setups,
regardless of which port position is selected.
In order to make the 95 Max as space efficient as
possible, the INDOOR supply and return ports are
converted from round to oval shape. Overall size of the
port remains the same. Simply bend a standard duct
fitting to the correct shape, and attach to the oval port
using the same method as for a round port.
Threaded
inserts (4)
at corners
SUPPLY
Fresh air
from outside
5" round collar
SUPPLY
Fresh air
to building
6" round
(conv. to oval)
collar
18.5"
(470 mm)
EXHAUST
Stale Air
to outside
5" round collar
EXHAUST
Return air
from building
Choice of port location
Knockouts on top and
side of unit (use 1 only)
6" round (conv. to oval)
collar supplied
¤
HEAT RECOVERY VENTILATORS (HRVs)
HEAT RECOVERY VENTILATORS (HRVs)
¤
SIDE MOUNTED PORT TOP MOUNTED PORT
standard location alternate location
Variable Port Location
Variable Port Location / Installation (Model 95 Max only)
The exhaust return port collar is not factory installed.
Installer may choose either side mounted or alternate topmounted port by simply removing one of the two knock-out
plates and attaching a port collar (supplied). To remove
knock-out plate, insert a utility knife into the knock-out
slits and trace them completely to puncture protective film
underneath. Then, cut the solid tabs between the slits, using
tin snips or side cutters, and remove the knock-out plate. If
any protective film still blocks the opening, remove it now.
(6 inch)
diameter
Same Circumference
Round port bent to oval
95 MAX Air Flow
Stale air enters the FRONT RIGHT side port. The air will
pass down the front half of the core, then up the back half
of the core and out the RIGHT REAR port.
Fresh outdoor air will enter the LEFT REAR port and
pass down the back half of the core. It will then pass up
the front half of the core, and out the LEFT FRONT port.
This unique configuration allows the air to actually travel
through the core twice, making the 95 MAX almost as
efficient as a double core unit.
17
INSTALLATION
Location
The HRV/ERV must be located in a heated space where it will
be possible to conveniently service the unit. Typically the
HRV/ERV would be located in the mechanical room or an
area close to the outside wall where the weatherhoods will be
mounted. If a basement area is not convenient or does not
exist, a utility or laundry room may be used
Attic installations are not normally recommended due to:
A) the complexity of work to install
B) freezing conditions in the attic
C) difficulty of access for service and cleaning
Sufficient clearance at the front of the access door is required
for servicing the air filters and core. A minimum of 25" (635
mm) clearance is recommended so the door can be opened.
Four PVC reinforced polyester hanging straps are provided
for hanging the HRV/ERV from the basement floor joists.
Mounting
The hanging straps should be attached to the unit at the top
end corners (mounting screws are already located on the
HRV/ERV case). Securely fasten the other end of the
straps to the floor joists with wide head nails (not
supplied), making sure the unit is level. The straps are
designed to reduce the possibility of noise, resonance or
harmonics; therefore using the full length of the strap between
the HRV/ERV and the floor joists is recommended.
Connecting Appliances to the HRV/ERV
It is not recommended that any of the following appliances be
connected to the HRV/ERV:
Lint, dust or grease will collect in the HRV/ERV, damaging
the unit.
NOTE:
Installing the Drain Line and P-Trap (not on all models)
When defrosting, the HRV/ERV may produce some
condensation. This water should flow into a nearby drain, or
be taken away by a condensate pump. The HRV/ERV and all
condensate lines must be installed in a space where the
temperature is maintained above the freezing point.
At the bottom of the cabinet there are prepunched hole for the
drain pan connectors (see below). Insert the drain spout
through the hole in the drain pan. Do not forget the “O Ring”
which seals the connector to the pan. REMEMBER TO HANDTIGHTEN ONLY the washer and lock nut which hold the drain
connector in place.
• clothes dryer
• range top
• stovetop fan
• central vacuum system
Connecting any of these to the HRV/ERV will
invalidate your warranty.
Electrical
The HRV/ERV should be plugged into a standard designated
(120VAC) electrical outlet with ground. It is not recommended
that an extension cord be used for this appliance. If further
wiring is required, then a licensed electrician should make all
electrical connections. It is recommended that a separate 15
amp/120 volt circuit be used.
Construct a P-Trap using the plastic tee connector. Cut two
lengths of hose and connect each piece to an end of
fitting, then connect the other ends to the two drain
spouts. Allow the "T" fitting to point upwards, and
connect the drain line. Tape or fasten base to avoid
any kinks. This creates a “trap” which will hold some
condensate and prevent odours from being drawn up
the hose and into the fresh air supply of the HRVERV
WARNING:
In order to prevent electric shock when cleaning or servicing
the HRV/ERV, it is extremely important to confirm the
polarity of the power line that is switched by the safety
(disconnect) switch. The hot line (black) is the proper line to
be switched. To confirm the proper polarity, use a voltmeter
or test lamp to ensure there is no power after the switch
when the door is open. Check between that point and ground
(on the cabinet). This must be done as dwellings are
occasionally wired improperly. Always make sure that the
HRV/ERV is properly grounded.
DRAIN
SPOUT
PRE-PUNCHED HOLES (2)
DRAIN PANDRAIN PAN
T APE
TO DRAIN
Forming the "P" Trap
the “T”
.
DRAIN
SPOUT
TEE
CONNECTOR
18
INSTALLING AIR DUCTS
A well designed and installed ducting system will allow the
HRV/ERV to operate at its maximum efficiency.
Always try to keep duct runs as short and straight as possible.
See Installation Diagrams for various installation options.
Outside Weatherhoods
The fixed covered hoods have a built-in bird screen with a
1/4" (6 mm) mesh to prevent foreign objects from entering
the ductwork.
Locating the Intake
Weatherhood
• Should be located upstream (if there are prevailing winds)
from the exhaust outlet
• At least 6' (2 m) from the exhaust weatherhood
• At least 6' (2 m) away from dryer vents and furnace
exhaust (medium or high efficiency furnaces)
• A minimum of at least 6' (2 m) from driveways, oil fill
pipes, gas meters, or garbage containers
• At least 18" (457 mm) above the ground,
or above the depth of expected snow accumulation
• At least 3' (1 m) from the corner of the building
• Do not locate in a garage, attic or crawl space
To minimize air flow restriction, the flexible insulated duct that
connects the two outside weatherhoods to the HRV/ERV
should be stretched tightly and be as short as possible.
Twisting or folding the duct will severely restrict air flow. See
below for the recommended connection of flexible insulated
ducts to the the outside weatherhoods and the HRV/ERV.
WEATHERHOOD INSTALLATION
BELT OF OUTSIDE WALL
INSULATED FLEXIBLE
HOOD
BIRD
SCREEN
THERMAL COLLAR
1/ Thermal Collar slides over galvanized
sleeve of Weatherhood.
2/ Fasten Thermal Collar to Belt.
3/ Slide the Insulated Flexible Ducting over
the Weatherhood’s galvanized sleeve and
fasten it to the Thermal Collar.
4/ Hood is hinged to allow for easy access
for cleaning of bird screen.
DUCTING
Locating the Exhaust
Weatherhood
• At least 6' (2 m) from the ventilation air intake
• At least 18" (457 mm) above ground or above the depth
of expected snow accumulation
• At least 3' (1m) away from the corner of the building
• Not near a gas meter, electric meter or a walkway
where fog or ice could create a hazard
• Not into a garage, workshop or other unheated space
When installing the weatherhood, its outside perimeter
must be sealed with exterior caulking.
Installing the ducting from the
weatherhoods to the HR V/ER V
The inner and outer liners of the flexible insulated duct must
be clamped to the sleeve of the weatherhoods (as close to
the outside as possible) and the appropriate port on the
HRV/ERV. It is very important that the fresh air intake line
be given special attention to make sure it is well sealed. A
good bead of high quality caulking (preferably acoustical
sealant) will seal the inner flexible duct to both the
HRV/ERV port and the weatherhood prior to clamping.
19
Warmside Ducting
To maximize airflow in the ductwork system, all ducts should
be kept short and have as few bends or elbows as possible.
Forty-five degree elbows are preferred to 90° elbows. Use
“Y” tees instead of 90° elbows whenever possible.
All duct joints must be fastened with screws, rivets or duct
sealant and wrapped with a quality duct tape to prevent
leakage. We recommend aluminum foil duct tape.
Galvanized ducting from the HRV/ERV to the living areas
in the house is recommended whenever possible, although
flexible duct can be used in moderation if necessary.
To avoid possible noise transfer through the ductwork
system, a short length (approximately 12 " or 300 mm) of nonmetallic flexible insulated duct should be connected between
the HRV/ERV and the supply/ exhaust ductwork system.
The main supply and return lines to/from the HRV/ERV
must be 6 inches (150 mm) minimum. Branch lines to the
individual rooms may be as small as 4 inches (100 mm),
but 5 inch (125 mm) lines are preferred .
All ducts running through attics and unheated spaces must
be sealed and insulated to code.
SUPPLY AIR DUCTING
Dampers and Grilles
In homes without a forced air furnace, fresh air should be
supplied to all bedrooms and living areas, excluding
bathrooms, kitchen and utility areas. It should be supplied
from high wall or ceiling locations. Grilles that diffuse the air
comfortably such as the Techgrille™ are recommended.
If the floor is the only option available, then special care
should be taken in locating grilles. Areas such as under
baseboard heaters will help to temper the air. Also optional
inline duct heaters are available for mounting in the supply
duct work to add heat if required.
In homes with a forced air furnace, you may want to connect
the HRV/ERV to the furnace ductwork (see information below).
The use of balancing dampers and/or adjustable grilles to
balance the flow rates into various rooms is recommended.
We suggest TECHGRILLE™ air diffusers.
• The TECHGRILLE™ is available in 4", 5", 6" and 8" (100,
• The TECHGRILLE™ is a round, fully adjustable grille,
Direct Connection to Furnace Ductw ork
Should you wish to hard duct the supply air directly into the
cold air return of the furnace, remember to check the air
flow balance of the HRV/ERV with the furnace fan both
"ON" and "OFF" to determine that it does not imbalance the
unit more than 10%. Also, it is advisable to include a short
length of fabric flex duct or other non-metallic connector in
this hard ducted line in order to keep the HRV/ERV
separately grounded (electrically) from the furnace. This will
avoid a possible shock hazard to service people if a short to
ground develops in one of the devices.
125, 150 and 200 mm) sizes.
which provides superior, quiet air distribution.
AIR FLOW
SUPPLY
AIR FLOW
EXHAUST
Indirect Connection to Ductwork
If permitted by local codes, an indirect connection may be
made between the HRV/ERV supply duct and the furnace
return plenum. The fresh air from the unit may be directed
at a grille installed in the cold air return duct of the furnace.
The fresh air supply outlet from the unit should be no closer
than 4 inches (100 mm) and no more than 12 inches (300
mm) from the grille.
Stale Air Exhaust System
The stale air exhaust system is used to draw air from the
points in the house where the worst air quality problems
occur. It is recommended that return air ducts are installed
in the bathroom, kitchen, and laundry room. Additional
return air ducts from strategic locations (i.e. greenhouse,
atrium, swimming pool, sauna, etc.) may be installed. Also,
the furnace return duct may be used to exhaust from. In this
method, the exhaust air is not ducted back to the HRV/ERV
with "dedicated lines" from bathrooms, kitchens, etc.
Instead, the exhaust air is drawn out of the cold air return of
the forced air furnace. This method has become popular
and provides good ventilation when installed in accordance
with the instructions. The furnace blower must be running
when the unit is operating for this system to
be effective.
Techgrille Air Diffusers
We recommend the use of high mounted wall returns with
grilles. The exhaust air duct from the kitchen should never be
connected to a range hood. Instead, the exhaust grille
should be mounted high on the wall at least 4 feet (1.2 m)
horizontally away from the stove. A "flip-up", 6" X 10" (150 X
250 mm) rectangular kitchen grille with removable grease
filter is available (Part No. 10-002).
Dampers should be located just prior to the HRV/ERV to
balance the stale air exhausted out of the house with a fresh
air supply entering the house.
Kitchen Grille
Removable
filter
20
Installation Diagrams
Example diagram only - duct configuration may
change depending on model
Partially Dedicated System
DIRECT CONNECTION of the SUPPLY AIR STREAM to the FURNACE COLD AIR RETURN
(Stale air drawn from key areas of home)
EXHAUST AIR from various parts of home.
i.e. bathrooms (if required), kitchens (if required).
Outdoors
NOTES:
1. Furnace blower may be required to operate when HRV/ERV is on to provide good air distribution.
2. Weatherhood arrangement is for drawing purposes only. 6' (2 m) minimum separation required.
18" (460 mm) above grade minimum.
3. Due to the differences in pressure between the HRV/ERV and the equipment it is being
connected to, the HRV/ERV's airflow must be confirmed on site, using the balancing
procedure found in the installation manual.
*Unit is normally balanced on HIGH speed
with furnace blower ON.
Return Air
3’ min.
recommended
Cool Air
Return
Forced Air
Furnace
21
Example diagram only - duct configuration
may change depending on model
Simplified Installation
Option 1
(Return/Return Method)
Note: Option 1 is the preferred / recommended method
when doing a simplified installation.
RETURN AIR
Outdoors
DIRECT CONNECTION of both the HRV/ERV SUPPLY AIR STREAM and
EXHAUST AIR STREAM to the FURNACE COLD AIR RETURN
→
40" (1m) MINIMUM
NOTES:
1. Furnace blower may be required to operate when ventilation from HRV/ERV is required.
The furnace should be set to run continuously or interlocked with HRV/ERV.
2. A minimum separation of 40 inches (1 m) is required between the two direct connections.
3. The exhaust air connection should be upstream of the supply air connection to prevent
exhausting any fresh air.
4. Weatherhood arrangement is for drawing purposes only. Six feet (2 m) minimum separation required.
Eighteen inches (460 mm) above grade minimum.
5. Due to the differences in pressure between the HRV/ERV and the equipment it is being
connected to, the HRV/ERV's airflow must be confirmed on site, using the balancing
procedure found in the installation manual.
→
3’ min.
recommended
Cool Air
Return
*Unit is normally balanced on HIGH speed
with furnace blower ON.
Forced Air
Furnace
22
Example diagram only - duct configuration may
change depending on model
Simplified Installation
Option 2
(Supply/Return Method)
RETURN AIR
Outdoors
It may be necessary to
form an elbow in the supply
side ducting as shown
DIRECT CONNECTION of both the HRV/ERV SUPPLY AIR STREAM and
EXHAUST AIR STREAM to the FURNACE COLD AIR RETURN & SUPPLY AIR SIDE
3’ min.
recommended
3’ min.
recommended
Cool Air
Return
Forced Air
Furnace
NOTES:
1. Furnace blower may be required to operate when ventilation from HRV/ERV is required.
The furnace should be set to run continuously or interlocked with HRV/ERV.
2. The exhaust air connection should be upstream of the supply air connection to prevent
exhausting any fresh air.
3. Weatherhood arrangement is for drawing purposes only. Six feet (2 m) minimum separation required.
Eighteen inches (460 mm) above grade minimum.
4. Due to the differences in pressure between the HRV/ERV and the equipment it is being
connected to, the HRV/ERV's airflow must be confirmed on site, using the balancing
procedure found in the installation manual.
23
Example diagram only - duct configuration may
change depending on model
Fully Dedicated System
Please Note: It is the responsibility of the installer to ensure all ductwork is sized and
installed as designed to ensure the system will perform as intended. All air movement
devices have a performance curve. The amount of air (CFM) that an HRV/ERV will deliver is
directly related to the total external static pressure (E.S.P.) of the system. Static pressure is
a measure of resistance imposed on the blower by length of duct work/number of fittings
used in duct work, duct heater etc.
24
PITOT TUBE AIR FLOW BALANCING
It is necessary to have balanced air flows in an HRV/ERV. The volume
of air brought in from the outside must equal the volume of air exhausted
by the unit. If the air flows are not properly balanced, then;
• The HRV/ERV may not operate at its maximum efficiency
• A negative or positive air pressure may occur in the house
• The unit may not defrost properly
• Failure to balance HRV/ERV properly may void warranty
For general balancing it is sufficient to move the pitot tube around in
the duct and take an average or typical reading. Repeat this procedure
in the other (supply or return) duct. Determine which duct has the highest airflow (highest reading on the gauge). Then damper that airflow
back to match the lower reading from the other duct. The flows should
now be balanced. Actual airflow can be determined from the gauge
reading. The value read on the gauge is called the velocity pressure.
The Pitot tube comes with a chart that will give the air flow velocity
Excessive
walls of the building where it may condense (in cold weather) and
degrade structural components. May also cause key holes to freeze up.
positive pressure may drive moist indoor air into the external
based on the velocity pressure indicated by the gauge. This velocity
will be in either feet per minute or metres per second. To determine the
actual airflow, the velocity is multiplied by the cross sectional area of the
duct being measured.
Excessive
In some geographic locations, soil gases such as methane and radon
gas may be drawn into the home through basement/ground contact
areas. Excessive negative pressure may also cause the backdrafting of
vented combustion equipment.
Read the Application Warning on the front of this manual!
Prior to balancing, ensure that:
1. All sealing of the ductwork system has been completed.
All of the HRV/ERV's components are in place and functioning properly.
2.
3. Balancing dampers are fully open.
4. Unit is on HIGH speed.
5. Air flows in branch lines to specific areas of the house should be
negative pressure may have several undesirable effects.
This is an example for determining the airflow in a 6" duct.
The Pitot tube reading was 0.025 inches of water.
From the chart, this is 640 feet per minute.
The 6" duct has a cross sectional area of =
The airflow is then:
640 ft./min.
For your convenience, the cross sectional area of some common
round duct is listed below:
DUCT DIAM. (inches)CROSS SECTION AREA (sq. ft.)
adjusted first prior to balancing the unit. A smoke pencil used at the
grilles is a good indicator of each branch line's relative air flow.
6. After taking readings of both the stale air to the
HRV/ERV
duct and
fresh air to the house duct, the duct with the lower CFM ([L/s]
velocity) reading should be left alone, while the duct with the higher
reading should be dampered back to match the lower reading.
7. Return unit to appropriate fan speed for normal operation
The accuracy of the air flow reading will be affected by how close to
any elbows or bends the readings are taken. Accuracy can be
increased by taking an average of multiple readings as outlined in the
literature supplied with the Pitot tube.
[
3.14 x(6"÷12)
= 0.2 square feet
X
0.2 square feet = 128 cfm
50.14
60.20
70.27
2
]
÷4
BALANCING PROCEDURE
The following is a method of field balancing an
HRV/ERV
using a Pitot tube,
Pitot tube and gauge
advantageous in situations when flow stations are not installed in the ductwork. Procedure should be performed with the
HRV/ERV
The first step is to operate all mechanical systems on high speed,
have an influence on the ventilation system, i.e. the
on high speed.
HRV/ERV
itself and
which
the forced air furnace or air handler if applicable. This will provide the
maximum pressure that the
HRV/ERV
will need to overcome, and allow
for a more accurate balance of the unit.
Drill a small hole in the duct (about 3/16"), three feet downstream of
any elbows or bends, and one foot upstream of any elbows or bends.
These are recommended distances but
the actual installation may limit the
Place pitot tube a minimum of 18" from blower or elbows
amount of straight duct.
The Pitot tube should be connected to a
magnehelic gauge or other manometer
Outdoors
capable of reading from 0 to 0.25 in. (062 Pa) of water, preferably to 3 digits of
resolution. The tube coming out of the
top of the pitot is connected to the high
pressure side of the gauge. The tube
coming out of the side of the pitot is connected to the low pressure or reference
side of the gauge.
Insert the Pitot tube into the duct; pointing the tip into the airflow.
Note: Duct connections may vary,
depending on model.
AIR
FLOW
Pitot tube
Magnehelic gauge
MAGNEHELIC
Pitot
tube
DUCT
Magnehelic
gauge
Pitot Tube Air Flow
Balancing Kit
c/w magnehelic gauge,
Pitot tube, hose and
carry case.
PART NO. 99-167
Magnehelic
gauge
MAGNEHELIC
Pitot
tube
MAGNEHELIC
25
0102
BALANCING COLLAR INSTRUCTIONS
Push and turn with slotted
screwdriver. Damper
automatically locks when
pressure is released.
Hard/Rigid
ducting
Insulated flexible
ducting
Installations where the HRV is ducted directly to
the return of a furnace may require additional
dampening on the fresh air to building duct.
This is due to the high return static pressures
found in some furnace installations.
When connecting ductwork
to the collar, take note where
screws are located. Screws
should be located no further
than 1/2” from outside edge
of collar, so as not to impede
operation of the damper.
1/2”
26
Maintenance Routine for
HRV
(for ERV, see following page)
1. Inspect Exterior Hoods at least once a month.
Make sure exhaust and fresh air supply hoods are not
blocked or restricted by leaves, grass, or snow. In winter, it
is especially important to make sure snow is not blocking
the hoods or that frost has not built up on the wire mesh
(bird screen).
WARNING: Blockage of hoods may cause an imbalance.
2. Clean Air Filters (clean twice a year)
The standard filters equipped with your HRV are removable
and washable.
a) simply open access door and slide core out
b) remove filter clips
c) once clips are removed filters can be taken off the core
to be rinsed with water or a combination of mild soap
and water. Do not clean in the dishwasher
d) to re-assemble, place clean filter(s) (wet or dry) back
into their positions against the core and return clips to
their original position
e) slide core back into its’ original position
8. Cleaning the Fans
Fans may accumulate dirt causing an imbalance and/or
excessive vibration of the HRV. A reduction in the air flow
may also occur. In new construction this may result within
the first year due to heavy dust and may occur periodically
after that over time depending on the outdoor conditions.
3. Clean Core Twice a Year
a) open access door.
b) carefully grip ends of core and pull evenly outward.
Core may be snug, but will slide out of the channel
c) once removed from the cabinet remove filters
d) wash core in warm soapy water (do not use dishwasher)
e) install the clean filters
f) install clean core
Note: Core installation label on the outer end of the core.
To install the clean core:
a) first mount the bottom flange of the core guide into the
bottom H channel approximately 1/4” (6mm)
b) mount the left or right side flange of the core guide
approximately 1/4” (6mm) followed by the other side
c) mount the top flange of the core guide into the top H
channel approximately 1/4” (6mm).
d) with all four corners in place and the core straight and
even, push hard in the centre of the core until the core
stops on the back of the cabinet.
NOTE: Core will appear to stick out from cabinet
approximately 1/8” (3mm). This is designed this way so
that the access door will fit tight against the core.
Before attempting this task, thought should be given
to having a qualified service technician complete the
service work.
6. Clean Duct Work if Required
The duct work running to and from the HRV may
accumulate dirt. Wipe and vacuum the duct once every
year. You may wish to contact a Heating/Ventilation
company to do this.
7. General Maintenance - Twice a Year
Wipe down the inside of the cabinet with a damp cloth to
remove dirt, bugs and debris that may be present.
• unplug the HRV and open the service door
• remove the core
• remove ducting (metal and/or flexible insulated type)
from the red and/or blue ports which are connected
immediately inline with the fan assembly
• use a small brush, such as an old toothbrush or pipe
cleaner, and insert first
(a) through the large opening of the fan
assembly and then
(b) through the smaller opening in the end
of the fan assembly.
• scrub individual fan blades until clean. Avoid
moving or damaging balancing flat weight, clip is
usually found on one or more of the fan blades
• vacuum and wipe
• reassemble making sure ducting is reattached firmly
and insulation and moisture barrier are sealed
and taped
4. Motors - Maintenance Free
5. Drain (condensate) Line - Clean once a year
Inspect drain line, drain spout and “P” trap for blockage,
mould or kinks. Flush with warm soapy water and replace
if worn, bent or unable to clean.
27
Maintenance Routine for
1.
Inspect Exterior Hoods at least once a month
Make sure exhaust and fresh air supply hoods are not
blocked up or restricted by leaves, grass, or dirt.
WARNING: Blockage of hoods may cause an imbalance.
5. Clean Duct Work if Required
The duct work running to and from the ERV may
accumulate dirt. Wipe and vacuum the duct once every
year. You may wish to contact a Heating/Ventilation
company to do this.
ERV
(for HRV, see previous page)
2. Clean Air Filters Four Times a Year
The standard filters equipped with your ERV are
removable and washable.
a) simply open access door and slide core out
b) remove filter clips.
c) once clips are removed filters can be taken off the core to
be rinsed with water or a combination of soap and water.
d) to assemble, place clean dry filters back into their positions.
e) install core to its original position
3. Clean Core Twice a Year
a) open access door
b) carefully grip ends of core and pull evenly outward
Core may be snug, but will slide out of the channel
c) once removed from the cabinet remove filters
d) vacuum core to remove dust from core surface.
DO NOT WASH!!
re) install the clean, dry filters
r f) install clean core
NOTE: Core installation label on the outer end of the core.
To install the clean core:
a) first mount the bottom flange of the core guide into the
bottom H channel approximately 1/4" (6 mm)
b) mount the left or right side flange of the core guide
approximately 1/4" (6 mm) followed by the other side
c) mount the top flange of the core guide into the top H
channel approximately 1/4" (6 mm)
d) with all four corners in place and the core straight and
even, push hard in the center of the core until the
core stops on the back of the cabinet.
NOTE: Core will appear to stick out from cabinet approximately
1/8" (3 mm). This is designed this way so that the access door
will fit tight against the core.
6. General Maintenance - Twice a Year
Wipe down the inside of the cabinet with a damp cloth to
remove dirt, bugs and debris that may be present.
7. Cleaning the Fans
Fans may accumulate dirt causing an imbalance and/or
excessive vibration of the ERV. A reduction in the air flow
may also occur. In new construction this may result within
the first year due to heavy dust and may occur periodically
after that over time depending on the outdoor conditions.
• unplug the ERV and open the service door
• remove the core
• remove ducting (metal and/or flexible insulated type)
from the red and/or blue ports which are connected
immediately inline with the fan assembly
• use a small brush, such as an old toothbrush or pipe
cleaner, and insert first
(a) through the large opening of the fan
assembly and then
(b) through the smaller opening in the end
of the fan assembly.
• scrub individual fan blades until clean. Avoid
moving or damaging balancing flat weight, clip is
usually found on one or more of the fan blades
• vacuum and wipe
• reassemble making sure ducting is reattached firmly
and insulation and moisture barrier are sealed
and taped
Before attempting this task, thought should be given
to having a qualified service technician complete the
service work.
4. Motors - MAINTENANCE FREE
28
TROUBLESHOOTING YOUR HRV/ERV SYSTEM
SYMPTOMCAUSESOLUTION
Poor Air Flows
Supply air feels cold
Dehumidistat is not Operating
Humidity Levels are too High
Condensation is appearing on the windows
• 1/4” (6 mm) mesh on the outside hoods is plugged
• filters plugged
• core obstructed
• house grilles closed or blocked
• dampers are closed if installed
• poor power supply at site
• ductwork is restricting HRV/ERV
• improper speed control setting
• HRV/ERV airflow improperly balanced
• poor location of supply grilles, the airflow may irritate
the occupant
• outdoor temperature extremely cold
• improper low voltage connection
• external low voltage is shortened out by a staple or nail
• check dehumidistat setting it may be on OFF
• dehumidistat is set too high
• HRV/ERV is undersized to handle a hot tub, indoor pool, etc.
• lifestyle of the occupants
• moisture coming into the home from an unvented or
unheated crawl space
• moisture is remaining in the washroom and kitchen areas
• condensation seems to form in the spring and fall
• HRV/ERV is set at too low a speed
• clean exterior hoods or vents
• remove and clean filter
• remove and clean core
• check and open grilles
• open and adjust dampers
• have electrician check supply voltage at house
• check duct installation
• increase the speed of the HRV/ERV
• have contractor balance HRV/ERV
• locate the grilles high on the walls or under the baseboards,
install ceiling mounted diffuser or grilles so as not to directly
spill the supply air on the occupant (eg. over a sofa)
• turn down the HRV/ERV supply speed. A small duct heater
(1kw) could be used to temper the supply air
• placement of furniture or closed doors is restricting the
movement of air in the home
• if supply air is ducted into furnace return, the furnace fan
may need to run continuously to distribute ventilation
air comfortably
• check that the correct terminals have been used
• check external wiring for a short
• set the dehumidistat at the desired setting
• set dehumidistat lower
• cover pools, hot tubs when they are not in use
• avoid hanging clothes to dry, storing wood and venting clothes
dryer inside. Heating wood may have to be moved outside
• vent crawl space and place a vapour barrier on the floor
of the crawl space
• ducts from the washroom should be sized to remove moist
air as effectively as possible, use of a bathroom fan for
short periods will remove additional moisture
• on humid days, as the seasons change, some condensation
may appear but the homes air quality will remain high with
some HRV/ERV use
• increase speed of the HRV/ERV
Humidity Levels are too Low
HRV/ERV and / or Ducts Frosting up
Condensation or Ice Build Up in Insulated Duct to
the Outside
Water in the bottom of the HRV/ERV
• dehumidistat control set too low
• blower speed of HRV/ERV is too high
• lifestyle of occupants
• HRV/ERV air flows may be improperly balanced
• HRV/ERV air flows are improperly balanced
• malfunction of the HRV/ERV defrost system
• incomplete vapour barrier around insulated duct
• a hole or tear in outer duct covering
• drain pans plugged
• improper connection of HRV/ERVs drain lines
• HRV/ERV is not level
• drain lines are obstructed
• HRV/ERV heat exchange core is not properly installed
• set dehumidistat higher
• decrease HRV/ERV blower speed
• humidity may have to be added through the use of humidifiers
• have a contractor balance HRV/ERV airflows
• Note: minimal frost build-up is expected on cores before
unit initiates defrost cycle functions
• have HVAC contractor balance the HRV/ERV
• using the self-test feature at the Base Module, press the fan
control symbol, the damper defrost unit should cycle its full
travel when working properly.
• tape and seal all joints
• tape any holes or tears made in the outer duct covering
• ensure that the vapour barrier is completely sealed
• ensure O-Ring on drain nozzle sits properly
• look for kinks in line
• check water drain connections
• make sure water drains properly from pan
29
Technical Bulletin
When using the ControlAir 15 relay contacts to initiate blower operation on a
furnace, certain thermostats will initiate the outdoor cooling condenser when
R and G are closed.
Use this wiring configuration to stop the ControlAir15 relay contacts from initializing
the condenser unit. This problem can occur at the thermostat because the Y
is connected to the G terminal internal to the stat. When R and G are closed at the furnace (by dehumidistat or relay) 24 Volts is sent to G at thermostat. 24 Volts is then
sent through Y which will initiate outdoor condenser.
terminal
MICRO PROCESSOR BOARD
TO DISABLE
RECIRCULATION
REMOVE SEL2
REMOVE SEL1
FOR R-2000
CONTACT
WARNING
750 ma
MAX FUSE
P6
1
2
T5
T4
T3
GROUND
SEL2
SEL1
DRY
CHASSIS
FAN O/P
P1
LINE
P3
NEUTRAL
P4
P2
P5
T1
N/C
T2
COMMON
T6
N/O
T7
T8
T15
T9
T10
T11
T12
T13
T14
THERMIST0R
INTERNAL
DEHUMIDISTAT
CONTROLAIR 15
YEL
GRN
ORN
RED
BLK
LEGEND
HIGH VOLTAGE
12V LOW VOLTAGE
FIELD INSTALLED
LOW VOLTAGE
30
GWYC
R
Furnace
GWY
R
Thermostat
TB-102-NE
0009
RESIDENTIAL WIRING DIAGRAM
MICRO PROCESSOR BOARD
TO DISABLE
RECIRCULATION
REMOVE SEL2
REMOVE SEL1
WARNING
750 ma
MAX FUSE
P6
1
2
T5
T4
T3
FOR R-2000
GROUND
SEL2
SEL1
DRY
CONTACT
CHASSIS
FAN O/P
P1
LINE
P3
NEUTRAL
P4
P2
P5
T1
N/C
T2
COMMON
T6
N/O
SEE
DEFROST
DETAIL
T7
THERMIST0R
INTERNAL
DEHUMIDISTAT
DOOR SWITCH
BLK
CONTROLAIR 15
120V
POWER SUPPLY
CORD
YEL
GRN
ORN
RED
BLK
Note:
All control connections
are labeled by colour.
Connect to corresponding
colour with low voltage wire
( 20 gauge minimum).
A dry contact closure
between red & black will
initiate high speed override.
T8
T15
AUTOTRANS
FORMER
T9
T10
T11
T12
T13
WHITE
BLACK
GRN
T14
SEE MOTOR DETAIL
LEGEND
HIGH VOLTAGE
12V LOW VOLTAGE
FIELD INSTALLED
12V LOW VOLTAGE
IMPORTANT: Control Low Voltage is 12VAC
DO NOT CONNECT EXTERNAL POWER SOURCES TO UNIT
DEFROST DETAILS
PCB PLUG - IN
PLUG IN
CONNECTOR
ORANGE
BI-DIRECTIONAL
DAMPER MOTOR
RED
BLK
BLK
ORANGE
RED
P1
3
PIN 1 - BLACK
PIN 2 - ORANGE
PIN 3 - RED
PIN 4 - SPARE
FAN MOTOR DETAILS
T12
T13
WHITE
BLK
GRN
WHITE
ORG
Note:
CAPACITOR
RED
YEL
If any of the original
wire as supplied with
the unit must be replaced,
FAN MOTOR
use only TEW certified wire
DIRECT MOUNTED CAPACITOR
AUTO-TRANSFORMER DETAIL
PLUG IN CONNECTOR
95 MAX ONLY
21
P1
4
PCB PLUG - IN
1
2
P1
4
3
PIN 1 - RED
PIN 2 - ORANGE
PIN 3 - BLACK
PIN 4 - SPARE
P5
4
5
6
PIN 1 - BLUE PIN 4 - RED
PIN 2 - YELLOW PIN 5 - WHITE
PIN 3 - BROWN PIN 6 - BLACK