Kenmore 38517526590 Owner’s Manual

OWNER'S MANUAL

MODEL 385. 17526

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.

Dear Customer:

You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine,

please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate and care for your machine.

Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.

Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store.

Please remember, ifyou have questions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention

the model number and serial number when you inquire.

Kenmore Sewing, Machine

Record in space provided below the model number and serial number of this appliance. The model number and serial number are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 4 of this booklet.

Model No. 385. Serial No, Retain these numbers for future reterence.

THIS MODEL 1S A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE.

iMPORTANT SAFETY

INSTRUCTIONS

Your sewing machine is designed and constructed only for HOUSEHOLD use. Read all instruction before using this sewing machine.

DANGER- o reduce the risk ot electric shock:

An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always

unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and

betore cleaning.

Always unplug before refamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts.

Do not reach for the appliance that has tallen into water. Unplug immediately.

Do not place or store appliance where it can tall or be pulled into a tub or sink. Do not place in or drop into water or other liquid.

WA RNING- Toreduce the risk ot burns, fire, electric shock,

or injury to persons.

Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this appliance is used by or near children.

Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked. Keep

ventilation openings of the sewing machine and toot controller free from

accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

Do not use outdoors.

Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

To disconnect, turn all controls to the off I"0") position, then remove plug

trom outlet.

9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.

10. Keep fingers away trom all moving pads. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.

11.

Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

t2.

Do not use bent needles.

13.

Do not pull or push labric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.

14_

Switch the sewing machine off ("0") when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading

bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like.

15.

Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other adjustments

mentioned in the instruction manual.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center torexamination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

SECTION

1. KNOW THE MACHINE

A Portable Case or Cabinet is Avaiatble .................................. 3

Locate and Identify the Parts .............................................. 3 - 4

identify the Accessories ............................................................ 5

2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine .......................................................... 6 - 10

Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power .................... 6

Foot Control Use .................................................................. 6

,= Set the Pressure Dial ........................................................... 7

o Adiust the Presser Foot Lever .............................................. 8

Thread Cutter ....................................................................... 8

o Accessories Storage Box ..................................................... 9

o Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension

Table ............................................................................. 9 - 10

Know What the Presser Feet Will Do ............................. ! I - 14

o Check the Presser Foot ..................................................... 1t

o Change the Presser Foot ..................................................... 7

= Presser Foot Types .................................................... 12 ~ 14

Choose the Needle and Thread ...................................... 14 - 15

• Check the Needle ............................................................... 14

• Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart ............... 15

o To Change the Needle ....................................................... 15

Prepare the Bobbin ......................................................... t 6 ~ 18

o To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine ................ 16

o Horizontal Spool Pin ........................................................... 16

o Additional Spool Pin ........................................................... 16

o Bobbin Wind ....................................................................... I7

o Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder ........................... I8

Prepare the Top Thread .................................................. 19 ~ 22

• Thread the Needle .............................................................. 19

e Pick Up the Bobbin Thread ................................................ 20

Adjust the Top Thread Tension ...................................... 21 ~ 22

Stitch Selector ......................................................................... 23

Stitch Width Control ................................................................ 24

Stitch Length Control .............................................................. 24

Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ............................................ 24

Reverse Stitch Control ............................................................ 25

Starting To Sew ....................................................................... 25

3. LEARN THE STITCHES

Practical Stitch Chart ...................................................... 26 - 23

Straight Stitches .............................................................. 3t - 35

e Straight Stitch ..................................................................... 31

o Use the Seam Guides ........................................................ 31

o Turn a Square Corner ........................................................ 31

• Topstitching ........................................................................ 32

® Sew in a Zipper ........................................................... 33 ~ 34

Dropping the feed Dogs ..................................................... 35

=0Darning ............................................................................... 35

Zigzag Stitches ................................................................ 36 - 48

e Basic Zigzag ....................................................................... 36

• Monogramming ................................................................... 36

• Satin Stitch .......................................................................... 37

Applique .............................................................................. 38

Bar Tacking ......................................................................... 38

= Embroidery ......................................................................... 39

• Sew a Button ...................................................................... 40

o Overcasting Stitch .............................................................. 41

o Blind Hemming ................................................................... 42

o Lace Work .......................................................................... 43

e Three-Step Zigzag .............................................................. 44

o Shell Stitching ..................................................................... 45

o Box Stitching ....................................................................... 45

o Fagoting Stitcih ................................................................... 46

,_ Two-Point Shell Stitching ................................................... 46

= Two-Point Box Stitch .......................................................... 47

= Overedging Stitch ............................................................... 47

o Decorate with Geometric Patterns ..................................... 48

Stretch Stitches ............................................................... 49 ~ 53

,=,Straight Stretch ................................................................... 49

• Rick-Ruck Stretch ............................................................... 49

o Overcast Stretch Stitching .................................................. 50

o Smocking ............................................................................ 50

,= Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching .................................. 5t

o Elastic Stretch Stitch .......................................................... 51

o Stretch Patching ................................................................. 52

• Herring Bone Stitch ........................................................... 52

• Decorative Stretch Patterns .............................................. 53

Buttonholes Making ........................................................ 54 - 60

o Learning to Sew Buttonholes ............................................. 54

= Built-in System ............................................................ 55 - 56

• Using Buttonhole Attachment ..................................... 57 ~ 60

Twin Needle Stitching ............................................................. 64

SECTION

SECTION 5. CARE FOR THE MACHINE

PARTS LIST .......................................................................................... 66 - 67

4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART

What to Do When ............................................................ 62 - 63

Replacing the Light Bulb ......................................................... 64

Clean the Bobbin Holder ......................................................... 64

Clean the Hook Race and Feed Dogs .................................... 65

Oiling the Machine .................................................................. 65

SECTION 1. KNOW THE MACHINE

A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available

A full fine ot sewing cabinets is available at your nearest Sears retail store or through our general

catalog.

Another option ..... buy a Carrying Case ..... then

your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored anywhere.

Locate and Identify the Parts

Upper Thread Guide

Take-up Lever

Top Thread Tension Control

;over Plate

Thread Cutter

Needle Plate

Hook Cover Plate

Thread Spool Pin

Bobbin Winding Sptndle

Stitch Width control

Stitch Length Control

Guide Messa_

Hook Cover Plate Release Sutton

Extension Table {Accessory storage box)

SECTION 1. KNOW THE MACHINE

Locate and Identify the Parts (Continued)

Arm Cover Plate

Hand Wheel

Push-Pull Clutch

Stitch Selector

Stretch Stitch Adiuster

Light and

Power Switch

Plug Connector

Carrying Handle

Presser Foot

Thumb Screw

Presser Foot

Thread Guide

Needle

Snap-on Button

Presser Foot Lever

Free Arm

Drop Feed Lever

Nomenclature Plate

Foot Control

identify the Accessories

SECTION 1. KNOW THE MACHINE

Buttonhole opener

Large screw driver

Zipper ioot stitch toot

Buttonhole Attachment

Small screw driver

Straight

Needle set

Additional spool pin

Sliding buttonhole loot

Lint brush

Small spoof holder

Spool pm tell

Larde spool holder

Satin stitch loot

Buttonhole guid_

p_ate ._//

Buttonhole toot

Base plate __

Buttonhole templates

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MAHCINE FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine

o Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power

Power suppiy pIug

Power sw_tch

Plug connecter

NOTE: Before inserting the plug into your

machine, be sure the power switch is OFF_

Check your outlet to be sure it is a 110 to t 20 Volt AC outlet.

Insert the machine plug into the three-prong

outlet, as shown. It will only fit one way.

Insert the power supply plug into the outlet.

Machine plug

Push the power switch to turn on the power and sewing light.

SAFETY FEATURE: Your machine wilt not operate unless the

power switch is turned on. If you are interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the power switch to

prevent injury to children.

• Foot Control Use

E-- -...... ,- < ]

Foot control

Sewing light

........................ power switch j

The foot control regulates the speed at which you sew.

To increase speed, gently press down with the ball of your toot.

To decrease speed, release your loot pres-

sure slightly.

NOTE: The foot control is sensitive and wilt

increase or decrease your sewing speed immediately.

Practice on a scrap of fabric to regulate your sewing speed to your

taste and needs.

• Set the Pressure Dia!

The pressure control dial is located inside the race cover plate.

Set the dial aligning the setting mark on the dial with the groove as follows.

3 ...... most sewing

2 ....... applique and Cut-Out work

1 ....... basting, sewing chiffon, tase0 organdy and other lightweight fabrics.

Also tor velours and knits (with more stretch).

0 ...... manual darning and embroidery

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

NOTE: The pressure dial should be rest at 3 after changing pressure, so the

machine is ready tot most normal sewing the next time you use it.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine (Continued)

• Adjust the Presser Foot Lever

The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your presser loot.

You can raise it about I/4- higher than the normal

up position for easy removal of the presser foot or

to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser

loot.

o Thread Cutter

You don't need a pair o| scissors to cut the

thread after you finish sewing. Just use the handy thread cutter.

cull_ __ _._

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Accessory Storage Box

The lid ot the accessory storage box lifts open toward you.

Sewing accessories are conveniently Iocated in the box.

o Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table

To Remove:

To Remove the Extension Table

(for tree-arm sewing) t. Grip the table with your index finger and thumb, as

shown.

2. PuiI gently toward you. The extension table will snap out.

To Attach:

/ Extension _,able

l_Accessory storage box)

Your sewing machine can do tree arm sewing. This feature makes sewing easy for:

* Bar tacking to reiniorce pockets, plackets

and waistlines on ready-made or home-- made garments to avoid tabric bunching

around the needle.

To Attach the Extension Table _for ftat-bed sewing)

1. Fit the tab into the slot, as shown.

2. With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine (Continued)

'* Stitching sleeves, waistbands, pants legs,

or any circular garment area.

_- Darning socks or mending knees, elbows,

or areas ol wear in children's clothes.

'_'Sewing buttons on sleeves, waistbands,

etc.

KnowWhatthe Presser Feet Will Do

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

= Check The Presser Foot

The Presser leer are an important feature this machine. You need to know what each does in order to use them effectively.

Your presser foot is held in place by a Foot Holder. Each presser foot merely snaps on the toot is holder, which is seldom removed.

If you need to remove or attach the toot holder, here is what you do:

To Remove:

,1-

Foot

To Remove: Turn the screw toward the back of

the machine. Use the large screw driver.

To Attach:

Presser I:

To Attach:

1. Match the hole in the toot holder with the thread hole in the

presser bar.

2. Fitthe toot holder screw into the hole.

3. Tighten the screw by turning it toward you.

• Change the Presser Foot

Use the correct presser loot tor the stitch you wish to sew. Consult the Stitch Pattern Chat and the detailed direction tor sewing with the various presser

toot.

To Snap Off:

Snap-on

button

! y,,

To Snap Off the Presser Foot::

t. Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheei

toward you.

2. Raise the presser loot.

3. Press the snap-on button on the back of the toot holder. The presser toot will drop off.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Know What the Presser Feet Will Do (Continued)

g Change the Presser Foot (Continued) • Presser Foot Types

Zigzag Foot

Straight Foot

To Snap On

,- .._

Groove _n_

_ ..... J

To Snap On the Presser Foot:

1. Place the presser loot so the

horizontal pin on the loot lies just

under the groove of the toot holder.

2. Lower the presser toot holder to lock the presser foot in place.

NOTE:

If you do not hear the presser toot snap in place, press down on the presser toot

holder firmly until you hear the snap.

A: Zigzag toot

Use this foot lor both straight and zigzag stitching.

Uses: Zigzag stitching (see page 3_,

Bar tacking (see page 3_, Button sewing (see page 4_,

Overcasting stitch (see page 4_,

Blind hemming (see page 4_2.), Lace work (se page 4_,

Three-step zigzag (see page 4__,

Box stitching {see page 4__, Two-point shell stitching

(see page 4_.6_),

Fagoting (see page 46),

Two-point box stitch (see page 4_Z), Overedging stitch (see page 4_Z),

Rick-rack stretch (see page __), Overcast stretch (see page 50_, Smoking (see page 5_.03,

Elastic stretch (see page 5_.!_), Stretch patching (see page 5_,

Herring bone stretch (see page 53t, Decorative stretch patterns

(see page _._.),

Twin needle stretching (see page 61_.

H: Straight toot

Use this exclusively for straight stitching using center needle position only.

Uses: Straight stitching (see page 3_!),

Topstitching (see page 3_,

Straight stretch (see page 4__.

= Presser Foot Types (Continued)

Sliding Buttonhole Foot

f--

Sliding buttonhole toot E; Zigzag toot

Use this for buttonholes of built-in system. It is marked to measure your buttonholes accurately.

Uses: Buttonhole making (see page 54_)

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Zigzag Foot

....... J

This toot can be set sew on each side ot your zipper. The edges of the toot guide the zipper and keep the straight.

Uses: Zipper application (see page 331

Satin Stitch Foot

(_ F: Satin stitch toot

Use this transparent toot for satin stitch and outlining applique.

Uses: Darning (see page 35.),

Monogramming (see page _, Satin stitch (see page 3_Z),

Applique (see page 3__, Shell stitching (see page 4__53, Geometnc decorative stitching

(see page 4_.8),

Twin needle stitching (see page 61).

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

= Presser Foot Types (Continued)

Buttonhole Foot

Buttonhole toot

Use this loot when making buttonholes with buttonhole attachment system.

Uses: Buttonhole making (see page 57)

Choose the Needle and Thread

,,,,,.... .--

Your choice of needle and thread depends on the labric your sewing. In the needle case, you wilt find the tollowing color-coded needles:

Blue (11) .............. tot stretch tabric

Orange (11) ............ tot lightweight fabric

Red (t4) .............. for medium or medium-heavy weight fabrics

Purple(16) ............ lor medium-heavy weight and decorative

topstitching on the these labrics

(This needle has a larger thread hole tor thicker topstitching thread.)

Green (18) ............. for heavy weight tabrics and decorative

topstitching on these fabric

• Check the Needle

1. Look tor a barbed or blunt point.

2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like labrics.

Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and be strong, smooth and consistent in thickness.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

o Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart

NEEDLE

FABRIC SIZE AND THREAD SIZE

COLOR

Lightwe{ght:

Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon, Silks, Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe, Taffeta, Voile,

Organdy

Mediurnweight,

Cotton, Cotton Blend, Percale, Gingham,

Shantung, Pique, Seersucker Satin, Knit, Suitings, Linen,

Wool Crepe, Leather

Medium Heavyweight:

Corduroy, Denim, Wool, Sailcloth, Woof Flannel, Gabardine, Velvet,

Leather

Heavyweight:

Coating, Upholstery. Cotton Duck, Heavy

Twills, Canvas

Decorative top-stitching on all types of fabric

Stretch Fabnc:

Polyester Double Knit, Nylon Tricot, Jersey, Stretch Terry, Spandex,

Cire Tricot

11-ORANGE

14-RED

16-PURPLE

!6-PURPLE

!8-GREEN

16-PU RPLE

18-GREEN

1t-BLUE

(STRETCH

FABRIC

NEEDLE)

Pofyester CoretCotton Wrap

Fine Mercerized Cotton Silk A

50 Mercenzed Cotton Polyester CorelCotton

Wrap Silk A

50 Mercerized Cotton

Mercenzed Heavy-duty Polyester Core/Cotton

Wrap

Silk A

Heavy-duty Mercerized Cotton

PoLyester Core/Cotton Wrap

Silk A

Buttonhole Twist (Use as top thread only)

Polyester Core/Cotton Wrap

50 Mercenzed Cotton

RECOMMENDED

STITCH LENGTH SETTING

(12 stitches per

inch)

2-2.5

(t0-12 stitches per _nch)

2-3 (8-10 stitches

per inch)

(8 stitches per

Inch)

3-4

(6-8 stitches per inch)

2-2.5 (10q2 stitches per inch)

o To Changethe Needle

Needle clamp screw

Flal stde away

ttom You

NOTE:

Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you.

Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it toward you.

Remove the needle by pulling it downward. Insert the new needle into the needle clamp with

the flat side away trom you. Push the needle up as tar as it will go. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly with the

large screwdriver from your accessory storage box.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Prepare the Bobbin

• To Remove the Bobbin from the Machine

(_ Remove the cover plate by (_ Take out the bobbin,

sliding the hook cover plate

release button the right.

o Horizontal Spool Pin

Ordinary Spool

.-.,,

Small Spool

Additional Spool Pin

Tilt up spool pin. Place the spool of thread

on spool pin with the thread coming off the spool as shown.

Attach the large spool holder pressing it firmly against the thread spool.

o The small spool holder is used with

narrow or small thread spools.

The additional spool pin is used to wind extra

bobbins without unthreadhg the machine.

To use, insert the additional spool pin in the

hole. Place the and the spioot on the pin.

Bobbin Wind

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Horizontal Spool Pin

Additional Spool Pin

(_ Pull the clutch knob away trom the machine to disengage clutch. (_ Draw the thread from the spool, (_ Guide the thread around the bobbin winder thread guide. (_ Insert the thread through the hole in the bobbin, threading lrom the inside to the outside. (_) Put the bobbin on the bobbin winding spindle, and push it to the right. (_ With the free end ol the thread held in your hand, depress the loot control. (_ Stop the mach=ne when it has made a few turns, and cut the thread close to the bobbin.

Depress the toot control again. When the bobbin Jstully wound, it wilt stop automatically. Return the bobbin winder to its original position by moving the spindle to the left, and cut the thread as

shown.

(_ Push in the clutch knob to engage clutch.

_" The machine witl not sew until the clutch knob is pushed in.

®@

(_)0 ,,,,A

NOTE:

The bobbin winder stopper can be adjusted for the amount of thread needed on the bobbin

(example t/2 tuli or tult etc.). To make the

adiustment use your large screw driver and loosen the screw one turn or less, This will

a!low you to adjust t he position of bobbin winder stopper. Do not take screw all the wayout.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Prepare the Bobbin (Continued)

e Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Holder

I. Put the bobbin into the bobbin 2. Pult about 4 inches of thread

holder so that the thread reeds toward you through the tension counter-clockwise (left). slot @.

3. Then pull the thread clockwise toward the back of the machine

through the slot 1_).

4. PuJEout about t5 cm (6"') ot thread and attach the hook cover plate.

Preparethe Top Thread

o Thread the Needle

The numbered steps above follow the numbers

on the illustrations. Dotted lines show places where the thread

loops and then is pulled tight.

SECTION

2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Raise take-up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you, Raise presser toot lever,

Place the spool on the spool pin as shown, with thread coming lrom the back of the spool.

tl.

Draw thread into thread guide using both hands.

While holding thread near spool, draw thread down into the tension area and then around the check spring holder.

Firmly draw thread up and through take-up lever from right to left.

Draw thread down and slip it through the thread guide.

Thread then is slipped into needle bar thread guide.

Thread needle from front to back.

NOTE:

Cut the end of the thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Prepare the Top Thread (continued)

• Pick Up the Bobbin Thread

k.. ........... ",-._ J

1. Raise presser toot fever, Hold needle thread loosely in left hand

and rotate hand wheel toward you one complete turn.

2. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling 3. Pull both threads under and to the top thread, back of the presser toot, leaving 4

to 6 inches of thread clear.

o Adjust the Top Thread Tension

Top side o! labnc

Selling mark

Loosen_

Tighfen _ _

For Straight Stitch

The ideal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers ot

tabric, as shown above, magnified to show detail. Ifyou look at the stitch, trent and back, you will notice that there are no gaps,

that each stitch is smooth and even. When adjusting top thread tension, the higher the number, the tighter the top

thread.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Choose the Correct Tension:

The best tension will depend on;

the stiffness and thickness el the fabric the number o! fabric layers

the type el stitch

The top thread is 1oo loose.

Top side

of fabr,c __

The top thread appears on the

underside el the tabnc.

The top lhread is 1oo tight.

The bobbin thread

appears on the upper surtace o! the

labric.

Tension is too loose: The top thread shows through the

bottom el the tabric. The bottom side of the stitch will reel bumpy.

Tension is too tight: The bobbin thread will come through

the top of the fabric. The top side el the stitch will feel bumpy.

+ 53 hidden pages