Kenmope
SEWING MACHINE 16951
OWNER'S MANU
Seal Canada Inc.
Dear" Homemaker:
You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine.
Before using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a
momenl and carefully read this booklet which contains
instructtons on how to operate and care for your machine.
Specific instructions are given on threading, tension
adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain
the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense
for conditions beyond our control.
Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always
available at your nearest Sears Retail Store. Please remember,
if you have questions about your machine, always mention the
model number and serial number when you inquire.
Kenmore Sewing Machine
Record in space provided below the model
number and serial number of this appliance.
The model number and serial number are
located on the nomenclature plate, as identified
on Page 2 of this booklet.
Model No,385, Serial No.
Retain these numbers for future reference.
• k
KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE
Machine identification ..................... 2
Accessories ............................ 4
Setting spool pins ....................... 5
Converting to free-arm sewing ............... 5
Pressure regulator, Presser feet lever ........... 6
Presser feet, Speed control plug .............. 7
Light and power switch, Sewing light .......... 8
Foot control, Seam guides, Darning plate ....... 9
Needle, thread and fabric chart .............. 10
Needles, Placement of needle ............... 11
Winding the bobbin ...................... t 2
Threading the bobbin thread ................ 13
Threading top thread ..................... 14
Picking up bobbin thread .................. 15
Adjusting top thread tensions ............... 16
STARTING TO SEW ....................... t 7
SIMPLE SEWING
Straight stitching ....................... 18
Fastening a seam, Turning a square corner
Zigzag stitching .......................... 20
Checking tensions, Overcasting, Interfacing darts
UTILITY AND STRETCH STITCH SEWING
Buttonhole making ...................... 22
Blind hemming .......................... 24
Shell stitching ......................... 25
Box stitching .......................... 26
Fagoting, Two-point shell stitching ........... 27
Satin stitching, Appliqueing ................ 28
Zipper application ...................... 29
Mending, Darning ....................... 30
Button sewing, Bar tacking .................. 31
Stretch stitching ........................ 32
Adjusting stretch stitch balance,
Straight stretch, Rick-rack stretch,
Overcast stretch, Smocking stretch, Serging or
pine leaf stretch, Elastic stretch, Stretch
patching, Herring bone stretch
Free-arm sewing .......................... 40
CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS ...... 41
CARING FOR THE MACHINE
Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle .............. 43
Oiling under arm cover plate ................ 44
Oiling underside ........................ 45
Oiling in face cover plate .................. 46
Parts list ............................. 47
USING PORTABLE CASE OR CABINET ........ 49
KNOW NG YOUR .: =, EWUNG
MACHUNE IDENTtFICAT!ON
Arm Cover Plate
Upper Thread Guide '\\,.
Face Cover Plate
*&
"\
Bobbin Winder
\Pressure Regulato¢ X,
Extension Table/
Presser Foot Thumb Screw
Thread Spool Pins
Stretch Stitch Adjuster_4_
Light and Power Switch_ ._
Electric Cord Receptacle_ ! >'4_':
Thread Guide
Thread Guide
Needle
Clamp Screw
Needle Plate
Bobbin Cover
Plate
Presser Foot Lever
Free Arm
Nomenclature Plate
2
i Top Thread
Tension Control
2. Stitch Width Control
3. Stitch Length Control
\
,\
4, Stitch Selector
5. Reverse Stitch Lever
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3
_ACCESSOR_£S .... _
ACC ESSO R l ES
Accessory box Buttonhole opener
Large screw driver ,.._/
Darning plate
Foot control
Satin stitch foot
_- Buttonhole guide foot
Straight stitch foot
Zipper foot
%
Owner's manual
\
\
4
SETTING SPOOL PINS
Spool Pins are packed in accessory box.
Screw thread spoo! pins in place securely with a screw driver.
Position spool pin discs and felts as shown in illustration.
Spool Pin:;fett
isc
_, Spoo!:.pin
CONVERTING TO FREE-ARM SEWING
To utilize free-arm feature for sewing tubular material, remove the extension table from
the machine.
To return to flat-bed sewing, reposition the extension table inserting tabs of the base into
slot of the machine,
5
PRESSURE REGULATOR
Push down the outer ring of the pressure regulator° This will release the pressure on the
presser foot. (See above)
To increase the pressure, push down inner pin until suitable pressure is obtained.
Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric, skipped stitches, or difficulty in
guiding the fabric, if feed dogs or presser foot marks appear on the fabric, reduce the
pressure.
When sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric, reduce the pressure, increase pressure
when sewing lighter weight fabrics.
PRESSER FOOT LEVER
To aid you in the placement of heavy
fabrics under the presser foot, the lever
can raise foot beyond the normal "up'"
position, This is also an aid in changing
your presser feet,
6
PR ESSER FEET
To change the various presser feet, raise
the presser bar to its highest position by
lifting the presser foot lever. Loosen the
presser foot thumb screw, choose the
proper foot, insert from the bottom.
Tighten the screw using the large screw
driver to make certain the foot is secure.
SPEED CONTROL PLUG
insert the foot control plug onto the
three prong connector as shown at the
left. Connect the cord plug into any
1 !0 "" 120 volt AC wall outlet.
7
L_GHT AND POWER SW_TCH
Turn on power by pushing light and
power switch,
important safety featu re
Your machine will not operate unless the
:] :;
light/power switch is turned on, Turning
on the power automatically illuminates
the whole stitching area. If you're inter-
rupted or stop sewing, turn off light/
power switch.
SEWING LIGHT
The sewing light is located in the face
cover as shown, To replace the bulb,
turn the light off and open the face
cover. Push the bulb up and turn the
bulb counter-clockwise and remove it
from the socket.
Push a new bulb in and turn it clockwise.
NOTE:
First, unplug the machine prior to re-
moving and replacing the bulb, Be aware
that the light bulb may be warm.
8
FOOT CONTROL
Step on this control to start to sew. The
harder you press on the control, the
faster the machine will sew. Slow down
by reducing pressure on the control,
You may want to practice your speed at
different levels when you first use the
machine,
SEAM GUIDES
Seam guides are printed on either side of
the needle plate to aid you in guiding
your fabric. THE GUIDE LINE EXTEND-
ING ALONG THE RIGHTSIDE OF THE
NEEDLE PLATE 1S THE "ALL IM-
PORTANT" 5/8" SEAM LINE,
The cornering guides are convenient when
turning a square corner 5/8" from the
fabric edge. See next section of this book
for directions°
DARNING PLATE
There are a few times when you want to
control the feeding of the fabric yourself,
Raise needle to its highest position and
raise presser foot. Place darning plate
over needle plate aligning two pins of
darning plate with holes of needle plate.
You may then determine the movement
of the fabric yourself. See page 31 for
button sewing application,
9
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NEEDLE, THREAD !::_l',,tDFABRIC CHART
:::::=::::SIZE AND THREAD SIZE
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Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
: Fine Mercerized Cotton
i Silk A
50 MerCerized Cotton
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
RECOMMENDED
STITCH LENGTH
SETTING
12 stitches
per inch
10 to 12 stitches
per inch
:::::::::::::::::::::::: Buttonhole Twist
l_i!_:ii_i_i_!_!_:_}_!_!i(_:;i!i_iii!:!: :::::::::::::::::::::8:GREEN :::::1 :(Use as top thread only}
FABR iC::NEED LE-
6 stitches
per inch
10 to 12 stitches
per inch
10
NEEDLES
Use KENMORE needles. The size of the
C
! il 1
needle should conform with the size of
the thread and both should suit the
fabric. Kenmore needles are color-coded
by size for your convenience (See chart
on facing page).
Never use a bent needle or one with a dull
point,
The exact length of your needle is shown
at left, Be sure you never use one in
your machine that is not this exact
length,
PLACEMENT OF NEEDLE
Raise needle bar to its highest position by
turning the hand wheel toward you°
Loosen the needle clamp screw. Holding
the needle with the flat side away from
you, slip the needle into the needle bar.
When it is in as far as it will go, tighten
the needle clamp screw with small screw-
driver provided in the accessory box.
11
WGND_NG THE BOBBIN
1. Pull Push-pull Clutch away from
machine to disengage clutch.
2, Draw thread from spool through
bobbin winder tension disc as shown.
30 Pull end of thread through hole in
bobbin as shown.
4. Place bobbin onto bobbin winder shaft
with end of thread coming from the
top of the bobbin. Push bobbin
12
winder shaft to the right until it clicks.
Holding onto et_d of thread, start
machine. When bobbin is slightly
filled, snip off end of thread.
5. Wind thread until winder stops.
Remove bobbin. Clip thread.
6. Push in Push-pull Clutch to engage
clutch.
THREADING "THE BOBBIN THREi-_,D
t_ Remove the extension table.
2. Remove the bobbin cover plate by
pulling it toward you while pushing it
down slightly.
3. Insert bobbin into shuttle making sure
bobbin rotates counter clockwise.
4. Pull 4-inches of thread through tension
slot of bobbin case and toward back of
machine as shown.
5. Close the bobbin cover plate allowing
thread to emerge through slot in
needle plate.
13
THREADING TOP THREAD
Raise thread take-up lever to its highest
position by turning hand wheel toward
you. Raise presser foot lever, Place spool
on spool pin as shown, with thread
coming from the back of the spool,
!. Draw thread through thread guide,
2, Draw thread into threading channel
toward you.
3. Draw thread down channel and around
the spring wire as shown,
14
4. Draw thread up & through take-up
lever.
5o Draw thread down and into thread
guide.
6. Thread then is slipped into needle bar
thread guide.
7. Thread needle from front to back.
@
P_CKfNG UP BOBBIH THREAD
1. Raise presser foot lever. Hold needle
thread loosely in left hand and rotate
handwheel toward you one complete
turn,
2, Bring bobbin thread up by pulling
upper thread,
\
\
3, Pull both threads under and to the
back of the presser foot, leaving 3 to
4 inches of thread clear°
If you cannot pick up bottom thread by
following steps given above, then
check:
1, is needle threaded from front to
back?
2. Is thread tangled around needle?
3. Is there 3 to 4 inches of thread coming
from the shuttle?
4. Is thread from shuttle tangled?
15