OWNER'S MANUAL
OVERLOCK 3j4
MODEL 385. 564180
Dear Customer:
You have just invested in a very fine overtock. Before using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains
instructions on how to operate and care for your machine.
Specific instructions are gLven on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service
expense tor conditions beyond our control.
Advtce on tile operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store. Please remember, if you have questions about your machine
or need parts and service, always mention the model number and serial number when you inquire.
Safety Cautions:
e Be sure that the electrical voltage of the wall outlet (wall receptacle) is the same as the rated voltage of the motor.
e Disconnect the power supply plug from the wall outlet when changing needles, presser foot or needle plate, or when leaving the machine unattended.
This efiminates the possibility of sta_ing the machine by accidentally pressing the foot control.
e All covers must be closed when operating the machine.
e Do not pull the fabric while you are stitching as this may deflect the needle, causing it to break.
e Before cleaning your machine, disconnect the power supply plug from the walt outlet.
e Do not attempt to adjust the motor belt. Contact your nearest Service Center should any adjustment be required.
e Handle the foot control with care and avoid dropping it on the floor. Be sure not to place anything on top of it.
e Closely watch the area being sewn to avoid injuries from needles and knives.
e Use only the handle to lift and move the machine,
Kenmore Overiock
Record in space provided below the model number and serial
number of this appliance. The model number and serial number
are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 3 of
this booklet.
Model No, 385, Serial No.
Retain these numbers for future reference.
TABLE OFCONTENTS
SECTION
SECT! ON
SECTION
1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE
Locate and Identify the Parts ............... 3_4
Identify the Accessories ..................... 4
2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING
Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power .... 5
Foot Control Use .... ...................... 5
How to Turn Hand Wheel ....................... 6
Opemng and Closing the Side Cover ................ 6
Opening and Closing the Looper Cover ............. 6
The Position of Thread Guide Bar ............... 7
Attaching the Spool Cap and Net ............... 7
Raising or Lowering the Presser Foot ............... 8
Threading the Machine ..................... 9_17
e Threading the Lower Looper ............... t0_11
e Threading the Upper Looper ............. 12"13
e Threading the Needle on the Right ........... 14_15
e Threading the Needle on the Left ............ t6_17
3. LEARN THE STITCHES
Starting Sewing ........................ 18
Finishing Sewing ........................... !8
Sewing Continuously ........................ 18
Securing Ends ........................... 19_20
Thread Tension (4 threads) ................... 21"_23
Threading the Machine (3 threads) ................ 24
Thread Tension (3 threads) ................... 24_25
Adjustment of Stitch Length ................... 26
Adjustment of Foot Pressure ................... 26
Removing the Presser Foot ..................... 27
Attaching the Presser Foot .................... 27
Changing Needle ........................... 28
To Disengage the Upper Knife .................. 29
To Engage the Upper Knife ...................... 29
Types of Needle Plates ....................... 30
Changing the Needle Plate ..................... 30
Thread and Needle Chart ................... 31
Rolled Hemming, Picot Edging and
Narrow Hemming ........................ 32_34
Decorative Overedging .................. 35
Pin Tucking .............................. 36
SECTION 4. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE
Cleaning Upper Knife Area .................. 37
Cleaning the Feed Dog ..................... 37
Replacing the Light Bulb .................... 38
Oiling the Machine .......................... 39
Replacing the Upper Knife ................... 40
SECTION 5. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART
What to Do When ........................ 4t
PARTS LIST ........................................ 42
INDEX ............................................ 43
Specification of the Machine .............................. 44
Carrying handle
Thread guide bar
Face plate
Thread take-up lever
thread gude
Let[ needle
thread tension dia!
Need le
thread guide
Rigilt needle
tllread guide
Side cover
Upper looper
thread guide (t)
Upper looper thread
tension dial
Lower looper
thread gude (1)
Right needle
thread tension dial
-Stitch tength
dial
Thread guide
\
Spool pin
Spool holder
Spool stand
NomencLature plate
Plug
connector
Power switch
Hand wheel
Lower looper thread
tension dial
Looper cover
Looper thread
guide
Foot control
Needle clamp screws
Upper knife
Needle ptate
Presser foot
Needle plate set screw
Knife holder
knife
Lower looper
thread guide 14)
Lower looper
thread guide (3}
Thread cutter
Presser foot
lifter
Presser bar
Foot holder
set screw
Needle bar thread guide
Needle clamp
Foot holder
Upper looper
Upper looper thread guide
Lower looper
Upper looper
thread guide (2)
"!_ Lower looper
thread guide (2)
Needle bar
/
Screwdr _vers
QQ
QQ
Spool caps
Set of
need les
Nets
/
Tweezers
Looper threader
Rolled hemming
needle plate
0
Lint brush
Lower looper
thread gutde (5}
Upper
knife knob
Accessory box
_r _IU_ _ i_ _ _ i_ _M a chrin_ _a _d Swit_ h _ _ _t_ _ J_w_ _ _ _
Power supply plug
supply
conneCtOr
Power
switch
NOTE: Before inserting the plug into your
machine, be sure the power switch is
OFF,
1, Check your outlet to be sure it is a 110to 120
Volt AC out_et.
2, insert the machine plug into the three-prong
plug connector, as shown, _t wilt only fit one
way.
3. |nsert the power supply plug _nto the wall
outlet.
Machine plug
Power switch
4. Push the light and power switch to turn
on the power and sewing light.
SAFETY FEATURE:
Your machine will not operate unless the
light/power switch Is turned on, If you are
interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the
light/power switch to prevent injury to
children.
/
Foot control
J
The foot control regulates the speed at which
you sew,
To increase speed, gently press down with the
ball of your foot.
To "decrease speed, release your foot pressure
stightty.
NOTE: The foot control is sensitive and
wilt increase or decrease your
sewing speed immediately. Practice
on a scrap of fabric to reguiate your
sewing speed to your taste and
needs.
_eel
¸¸,
Side
Looper cover
Alwaysturnhandwheeltowardyou.
To open:
Push the side cover to the left.
To close:
Push the side cover to the right and slightly toward
the mach}ne body,
For Your Safety:
Always close both side and looper covers when the
machine is in use.
To open:
While pushing with the thumb to the right as far as
it will go, pull looper cover toward you.
To close:
Lift looper cover and push against the machine.
The looper cover snaps into the position auto-
matically,
•v ":: :: !=i::_:L•¸": •:i/>;: ?i:¸:! • ••i_•LI/h :¸" _'_•i':'_ ,:i::•j!:j ii:¸ >!:i:: :-:•7_:••:• :•_ _" : •/:=::-•
The Position 0fThread GuideBar
e bar
|Thread gutde i = I I1"_ _! 1
| , lJ?l ]
i _ I H----J o
| i , 11_-I_s,o_4,,
| 1 Jl II V
! , _II fi !
LOI® __.
(_ Pull the thread guide bar up as far as it will go.
Turn the thread guide bar so that the thread
gutdes are right above the spool pins.
Spool cap
Spool pin
u
N
,o
(_ When you use a small thread spool, remove the spool holder from the spool pin. Then place the spool
with its slit side up, and put spool cap on top.
2_ If the thread slips down from the spool during threading and/or sewing, put a net on the spool as
illustrated for preventing)ammlng. The nets are supplied with the machine.
,; Raising.o_ L"_ ;'=_,_:T:_,:_"_;,._o_=_,,:werin=, _,.g _=.,_ =thePresser Foot,_'= :_.._ =,
_feSSer
_oOt Iifter
By raising or lowering the presser foot lifter,
the presser foot goes up and down.
While in operation, keep the presser foot
lowered except for testing stitches,
threading the machine or sewing heavy
weight fabrics.
NOTE: Thread tension will not be released
if the presser foot is raised.
::iI:Th _eadinglthe Mach ine I
I. Green
| 3.Blu e_------___,::2_]IJ ,_'k
p.Orano - I\
f
Threading Chart
(Located behind tooper cover)
For your convenience, your Kenmore ovedock has been pre-threaded. To prepare to sew with your
choice of threads, follow these simple instructions:
- Connect the power supply plug to the wall outlet and turn on the power switch (Page 5in owner's
manual).
-- Raise thread guide bar to highest pos+tion; open side cover and Looper cover (Page 6 in owner's
manual).
-- Untie knot holding threads together.
-- Place a thread cone on far right spool holder+ Securely tie end of thread from cone to thread
farthest on right of thread guide bar (GREEN).
-- Pull thread, guiding knot through tension disc, thread guides and lower looper.
- Place a second thread cone on second spool holder from right. Securely tie end of thread from
cone to thread second from right on thread guide bar (RED).
- Pull thread, guiding knot through tension disc, thread guides and upper looper.
-- Place a third thread cone on the second from left spool holder. Securely tie end of thread from
cone to thread located second from left on thread guide bar (BLUE)+
- Pull thread, guiding knot through tension disc and thread guides, Before reaching needle, remove
presser foot (Page 27 +n owner's manual). Clip thread on both sides of knot. Pull old thread out
of right needle and thread new thread through needle. Use looper threader or tweezers to make
threading easier. Knife may be lowered to give you more room to work (Page 29 in owner's
manual).
- Place a fourth cone of thread on spool holder at far left. Securely tie end of thread from cone to
thread on far left of thread guide bar (O RANGE),
- Pull thread, guiding knot through tension disc and thread guides. Before reaching needle, clip
thread on both sides of knot. Pull old thread out of left needle and thread new thread through
needle.
+ Pull both sides of thread firmly between each tension disc (Pages 11, 13, 15, 17 in owner's
manual),
- Refer to threading chart behind looper cover to check threading paths.
- Gently pull all four thread ends towards back of machine.
- Replace presser foot (Page 27 in owner's manual). Return knife to up position (Page 29 in owner's
manual). Close side cover and looper cover (Page 6 in owner's manual).
- Turn hand wheel toward you to chain off three or four stitches.
- Place fabric under the toe of the presser foot; it is not necessary to raise the foot, YOU ARE
NOW READY TO BEGIN SERGING!
9
e Threading the Lower Looper
®
Thread guide
\
(9
_ ....................... J
(_) Draw the thread through
the right side thread guide
from back to front.
How to Thread the Lower Looper
Looper thread gutde
1
Thread guide
plate
4
® ®
(_ Pass the thread through (_) Pass the thread through the
holes on the right side of right side of thread guide
thread guide plate as iliu- sliding the thread from left
strated, to right.
Cut the both needle threads as shown in the figure and remove
them from the needles.
Thread the lower looper and then re-thread the needles.
Open the looper and side covers.
Loosen screw and remove presser foot assembly.
Place the spool of thread on the right side spool pin.
i * Points to thread for lower looper are marked
10 [ in green.
._- looperIk-k%._-___ I
g_,deI_l 31_ EL;xT..-LooperI
" ,..oooo,
/ _ Lower ! //
| _ looper thread I
(_) Insert the thread between tension (_) Pass the thread through the thread gutde (2}. (_ Turn the hand wheel toward (_ Putt the threader to pass the
discs from the right Then pull _) Pass the thread through the looper thread you until the Iower looper thread through the hote of
both sides of the thread firmly take-up lever (lower). comes to the left, pass the lower looper thread guide (5}.
between tension discs, threader through hole on lower Remove the thread from the
(_) Pass the thread through lower f3) and I4). Hook the end of thread on the through the hole on lower
looper thread guide (1), threader, looper 10 cm (4"') or more
Thread _
[
* Make sure that the thread is between
the tenston discs.
0 ,deI41 I\IIhl I\ /, I
(_) Pass the thread through the thread guides tooperthread guide (5). threader, and draw the thread
Lower looper Looper li_read w
/
Tension discs
threader __ __
with a pair of tweezers.
How to Thread Woolly NylonlPolyester Thread
d
* To pass the woolly nylon/polyester thread shown above is one of the
* Use the same method for the upper looper,
Lower looper
Ordinary WoolIy nyion/pio!yester thread
thread
easiest ways to do so.
11
e Threading the Upper Looper
Place the spool of thread on the spool pm second
from the right.
Thread
guide
p_ate
C) Draw the thread through (_) Pass the thread through the (_ Pass the thread through the
the thread guide second holes in the second row left side of thread guide
from the right from back to from the right of thread sliding the thread from right
front, guide plate as illustrated, to left,
How to Thread the Upper Looper
Turn the hand wheel toward you until the
Lower looper
threa#
Upper looper
upper looper comes to the middle point of its
travel, and unhook the thread of the lower
looper from the upper looper.
Thread the upper looper.
thread
guide
i./
&
I * Points to thread for upper Iooper are
12
marked in red,
Loope_
threader_
/Uppe_ fooper
-,_ toope_thread
_(_ _ ,ens,on dia,
the thread between
Insert tension discs from
the right, Then pufl both sides of thread.
_) Pass the thread through upper looper thread
guide (1).
lhread
J
(_ Pass the thread through upper looper thread
guJde (2).
(_ Pass the thread through the looper thread take-
up lever (upper).
(_ Pass the thread through upper looper thread
gu _de.
Pass the threader through the hole on the upper
looper, Then hook the end of thread on the
threader. Pull out the threader to pass the
thread through the hole. Remove the thread
from threader, and draw the free end of thread
10 cm (4"} or more.
13