Kenmore 38512612090 Owner’s Manual

OWNER'S MANUAL

SEWING MACHINE

MODEL 385. 12612090

OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

"For appliances with a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other)_

To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to fit in a

polarized outlet onty one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way."

"Foot Controller Model YC-482P for use with Sewing Machine Models

385.1148x x x, 385.1158x x x, 385.1168x x x, 385.1258x x x, 385.1268x x x,

385.12612x x x, 385.1278x x x, 385.11607x x x, 385.t2710x x x, 385.12714x x x,

385.12712x x x, 385.17622x x x, 385.11608× × x, 385.12814x x × and 385.12014x x x. xxx - represents numbers 000 through 999_"

(For U.S.A. market only) 100-316-005

IMPORTANT SAFETY

INSTRUCTIONS

Your sewing machine is designed and constructed onty for HOUSEHOLD use.

Read all instruction before using this sewing machine.

DA NGER- Toreduce the risk of electric shock:

An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using

and before cleaning.

Always unplug before relampmg. Replace bulb with same type rated

15 Watts.

Do not reach for the appliance that has fallen into water. Unplug

_mmed_ate|y.

Do not place or store appliance where it can fall or be pulled into a tub

or sink, Do not place _n or drop into water or other liquid.

WAR NING- Toreduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock,

or injury to persons.

1. Do not aNow to be used as a toy, Close attention is necessary when this appliance is used by or near children.

2. Use this appliance only for _ts intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in

this manual.

Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it Is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into

water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or serwce center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked, Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from

accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening,

6.' Do not use outdoors.

7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray} products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off "'O") position, then remove plug from outlet.

9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the

cord.

10. Keep fingers away from ale moving parts, Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.

11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the

needle to break.

12.

Do not use bent needles.

13.

Do not pull or push fabric while stitching.

_t may deflect the needle causing it to break,

14.

Sw_tch the sewing machine off _,"0") when making any adjustment In the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needte, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like.

t5.

A_ways unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when

removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.

SAVE THESE iNSTRUCTIONS

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.

Dear Customer:

You have just invested m a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate and care for your machine.

Specific instructions are gwen on threading, tension adjustments, cleamng, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.

Adwce on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retai| Store, Please remember, if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service, atways mention the model number and serial number when you inqu_re.

Kenmore Sewing Machine

Record _n space provided befow the model number and seNal number of this appliance. The modei number and serlaf number

are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 3 of thts booklet,

Model No. 385. Seriat No.

Retain these numbers for future referencm

THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE.

SECTION

SECTION 3.

1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE

A Portable Case or. Cabinet is Available ............ 2

Locate and Identify the Parts .............. 2_3

Identify the Accessories ........................ 3

PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine ....................... 4_6

• Plug m the Machine and Switch on the Power ....... 4

• Foot Control Use ......................... 4

• Setting Spool Pin .................. 5

o Adjust the Presser Foot Lever ............... 5

• Thread Cutter ........................... 5

Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table .... 6

• Accessory Storage Box .................... 6

e Change the Presser Foot ................. 6

Choose Your NeedEe and Thread ............ 6_7

- To Change Your Needle ................. 6

o Check Your Needle .................... 7

o Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart ..... 7

Prepare the Bobbin ....................... 8_9

• To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine ...... 8

• Wind the Bobbin ..................... 8_9

o Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case ............ 9

Prepare Your Top Thread ............... 10_11

w Thread Your Needle .................... 10

• Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread ............... 11

Adjust the Top Thread Tension .............. 12_13

Stitch Selector ....................... 14

Stitch Length Control ................... 14

Adjusting Stretch Stttch Balance ............ 15

Reverse Stitch Control ..................... 15

Starting To Sew ..................... 16

LEARN THE STITCHES

Straight Stitches .................. 17_18

o Straight St_itch ................... 17

a Use the Seam Guides ................. 17

e Turn a Square Corner .............. 17

Use the Darning PIate .................... 18

• Topstitehing ...................... 18

• Left Needle Position ..................... 18

Darning ........................ I9

Straight Stretch ........................ 19

Zigzag Stitches .......................... 20_26

o Basic Zigzag ......................... 20

• Satin Stitch ....................... 21

• Applique ............................. 22

• Bar Tacking .................... 22

• Sew a Button ........................ 23

Overcasting Stitch .................... 24

• Rick-Rack Stretch ..................... 24

• Overcast Stretch Stitching ................... 25

e Serg]ng or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching ............ 25

o Three-Step Zigzag ......................... 26

Lace Work ....................... 26

Blind Hemming .......................... 27

Buttonholes ........................... 28_29

Sew in a Zipper ........................ 30"-31

Shell Stitching ......................... 32

Smocking ............................ 32

Elastic Stretch Stitch .................. 33

8ox Stitching .......................... 33

SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART

What to Do When .................. 34_35

SECTION

PARTS LIST ............................... 39

5. CARE FOR YOUR MACHINE

Replacing the Light Bulb ................. 36

Cleaning the Machine ................... 36_37

• Clean the Feed Dogs .................... 36

Clean the Shuttle Race .................. 37

Oiling the Machine ....................... 38

o Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and under the

Arm Cover Plate .................... 38

• Oil the Underside .................... 38

INDEX ................................ 40

SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE

A Portable Caseor Cabinet is Available

A full line of sewing cabinets are available at your nearest Sears retail store or through our general

catalog. Another option . . _ buy a Carrying Case.. then

your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any- where,

Locate and Identify the Parts

Take-up Lever

Bobbin Winding Tension Disc

Top Thread Tension Controt

Face Cover Plate

Thread Cutter

Needle Plate

Upper Thread Guide

Thread Spoo! Pin

Bobbin Winding Spindle

Stitch Length Control

Reverse Stitch Control

Stitch Selector

Extension Table

{Accessory storage box)

Shuttle Cover

SECTION 1. KNOW YOUR MACHINE

Arm Cover Plate

Hand Wheel

Auto Clutch Knob

Light and Power Switch

Connecto£

Carrying Handte

_,Nomenciature Plate

Presser Foot Lever

Free Arm

Identify the Accessories

Bobbin / Lint brush

_ Buttonhole opener

_La[_e screw driver

Darning p_

_Small screw d rwer

Straight

stitch toot

Foot Control

Satinstitchtoo___! _

Needle Clamp Screw

buttonhole toot /

Zipper toot

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine

• Pluginthe MachineandSwitchon the Power

Power supply pIug

Push the light and power switch to turn

Machine plug

................... 4

NOTE:

Before inserting the plug into your machine, be sure the power switch ts

OFF,

Check your outtetto be sure it is a 110to120 Volt AC outlet,

2. Insert the machine plug into the three-prong plug connector, as shown, tt will only fit one way.

3. insert the power supply plug into the outfet.

on the power and sewing light.

SAFETY FEATURE: Your machine will not operate unless the

light/power switch is turned on. If you are interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the

llght/power switch to prevent injury to children.

Foot Control Use

light

Foot contro_

Power switch

The foot control regulates the speed at

which you sew. To increase speed, gently press down with

the ball of your foot. To decrease speed, release your foot pres-

sure slightly.

NOTE: The foot control is sensltive and

wilt increase or decrease your

sewing speed immediately. Practice on a scrap of fabric to

regulate your sewing speed to your taste and needs.

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING

Setting Spool Pin

Spool pin

The spool pm Js used for hotding the spool of thread in order to feed thread to the

machine, To use, pull up the spool pin. Push down

for storage.

Adjust the Presser Foot Lever

Normal up

poslT_on

High posiUor

position

Presserfoot

lever

The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your presser foot,

You can raise it about 1/4" higher than the normal up position for easy removal of the presser foot or to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser

foot.

• Thread Cutter

You don't need a pair of scissors to cut the thread after you finish sewing. Just use the handy thread cutter.

Pull the threads to lengthen several inches before starting the next seam.

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine (Continued)

• Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable o Accessory Storage Box

Extension Table

To Remove the Extension Table The lid of the accessory storage (for free-arm sewing) box lifts open toward you,

I. Grip the table with your index finger Sewing accessories are conveni*

and thumb, as shown.

2. Pu_t gently to the left. The extension table will snap out.

To Attach the Extension Tabfe (for fiat-bed sewing)

1, insert the tab and the pin into their

catches.

2. With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in.

ently located in the box.

• Change the Presser Foot

Use the correct presser foot for

the stitch you wish to sew,

To change the various presser feet, raise the presser bar to its

highest position by lifting the presser foot lever,

Loosen the presser foot thumb

screw, choose the proper foot, insert from the bottom.

Tighten the screw using the large screw driver to make

certain the foot is secure.

Choose Your Needle and Thread = To Change Your Needle

Needle clamp screw

Fiat

side

away

from

you

NOTE: Raise the needle bar to its highest

position by turning the hand wheel

toward you.

1. Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it toward you.

2. Remove the needle by pulling it down-

ward.

3. Insert the new needle into the needle clamp with the flat side away from you.

4. Push the needle up as far as it will go.

5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly

with the large screwdriver from your

accessory box.

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING

Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart

Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are sewing.

In your needle envelope, you will find the following color-coded

needles:

Blue (11 ) ........ for stretch fabrics.

Orange (11 } ........ for lightweight fabrics.

Red (14) ........ for medium or medium-heavy

weight fabrics.

Purple (16} ........ for medium-heavy weight fabrics

and decorative topstitching on these fabrics. {This needle has a larger thread hole for thicker topstitching

thread.)

Green (18) ....... for heavy weight fabrics and

decorative top-stitching on these fabrics,

Replacement Kenmore needles are avialable at your nearest Sears

stores,

FABRIC

Batlste_ Dimity, Chiffon, Silks, Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe, Taffeta, Voi_e_

Organdy

Medium Weight:

Cotton, Cotton Blends, Percale, Gingham, Shantung, Pique, Seersucker, Satin, Kmts, Vinyl Su_tmgs, Linen, Wool Crepe, Leather

Medium Heavy Weight:

Corduroy, Den=m, Woo!, Sailcloth, Wool Flannel,

_Gabardine_ Velvets,

Leather

Heavy Wmght: Heavy Duty Mercerized

Coatmgs, Upholstery 18-GREEN Polyester Core!Cotton {8 stitches per COttOn Duck, Heavy

Twills, Canvas Wrap inch}

Decorative top-stitching 18-PURPLE Buttonhole Twist (6-8 stitches on all types ot fabric 1B-GREEN IUse as top thread only) per Inch)

Stretch Fabric:

Polyester Doubte Knits, (STRETCH Polyester Core/Cotton 2--2,5

Nylon Tricot, Jersey. FABRIC Wrap (t0-12 stitches Stretch Terry, Spandex, NEEDLE) 50 Mercerized Cotton per mch}

Cire Tricot

NEEDLE

SIZE AND

COLOR

11.ORANGE

!4*RED Polyester Core/Cotton

14-RED Mercerized Heavy-Duty

or Polyester Core/Cotton

16*PURPLE Wrap

11-BLUE

THREAD SIZE

Polyester Core/Cotton

Wrap

Fine Mercerized Cotton

Silk A

50 Mereer=zed Cotton

Wrap Silk A

50 Mercerized Cotton

Silk A

Cotton 3

Silk A

RECOMMENDED

STITCH LENGTH

SETTING

2 (12 stitches per

inch ]

2--2.5

(10-12 st=robes

per mch)

2--3

(8-10 stitches

per inch)

3--4

Check Your Needle

1. Look for barbed or blunt point.

2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics.

Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and be strong, smooth and consistent in thickness.

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING

Prepare the Bobbin

To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine

%............. J

Remove the extension table from

the machine by pulling it to the

left. Open the shuttle cover by

pulling down the embossed part on the left side of the cover.

Raise needle to its highest positron

by rotating hand wheel toward you.

To remove bobbin case from shut- tle, pul! open latch of bobbin case,

Pu|l bobbin case straight out of shuttle,

Wind the Bobbin

Release clutch by turmng the

clutch knob inside the hand wheel toward you to stop the needle from

moving while you winding the bobbin.

• Wind the Bobbin (Continued)

Draw thread from spool through bobbin winding tension disc as shown.

= Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case

Pull end of thread through hole in bobbin as shown.

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING

Place bobbin onto bobbin winding spindle with end of thread coming from the top of the bobbin. Push bobbin winding spindte to the right until it clicks. Holding onto end of thread, start machine. When bobbin is slightly filled, snip off end of thread.

Wind thread until winder stops. Push bobbin winding spindle to the left and clip thread. Remove bobbin.

Turn clutch knob away from you while holding hand wheel for normal

sewing operation.

Place bobbin in bobbin case making sure thread feeds clock- as shown.

wise and _s coming from bobbin as shown.

Pull thread through slot of case

Pull thread under tension spring and through the opening

as shown above. Pull 3 to 4

inches of thread from bobbin.

Holding latch open, position case into shuttle and release

latch.

Case should lock into place when latch is released.

SECTION 2. PREPARE YOUR MACHINE FOR SEWING

Prepare Your Top Thread

= ThreadYour Needle

Raise take-up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you, Raise presser foot lever.

Place spool on spool pin as shown, with thread coming from the back of the spool.

1. Draw thread into thread guide using both hands.

2. While holding thread near spool, draw thread down into the tension area and then around the check spring hofder.

The numbered steps above follow the numbers on the illustrations.

Dotted lines show pfaces where the thread loops and then is pulled tight.

3. Firmly draw thread up and through take-up lever from right to left,

4. Draw thread down and slip it into needle bar thread guide.

5. Thread needle from front to back. NOTE: You may want to cut the end of thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading.

,= Pick Up Your Bobbin Thread

SECTION2. PREPAREYOURMACHINEFORSEWING

Raise presser foot lever. Hold top thread loosely in left hand and rotate handwheet toward you one complete

turn.

If you cannot pick up bobbin thread by following steps given above, then check:

1. is needle threaded from front to back?

2. Is thread tangled around needle.;

3. Are 3 to 4 inches of thread coming from the shuttle?

4. ts thread from shuttle tangled?

5. |s bobbin properly installed in the bobbin case? 6, Is the machine threaded according to the instructions?

2. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling top thread.

3. Pull both threads under and to the

back of the presser foot, leaving 4 to 6 inches of thread clear.

+ 35 hidden pages