Kenmore 38512514590 Owner’s Manual

OWNER'S MANUAL

SEA/RS

SEWING MACHINE

MODEL 3 4

SEARS, ROEBUCKANDCO.

Dear Customer:

You have just invested in a very fine z_gzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet Which contains instructions on how to operate and care for your machine.

Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.

Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store. Please remember, if you have q,#estions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention the model number and serial number when you inquire.

Kenmore Sewing Machine

Record in space provided below t he model number and serial

number of this appliance. The model number and serial number are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 4 of

this booklet.

Model No. 385. Seria{ No. Retain these numbers lot future reference.

THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE.

IMPORTANT SAFETY

INSTRUCTIONS

Your sewing machine is designed and constructed only for HOUSEHOLD use. Read all instruction before using this sewing machine.

DANGER--toreduce the risk ot electric shock:

1. An appliance should never be left unattended when pluggedin_ Always unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and

before cleaning.

2. Always unplug before relampmg. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts.

3. Do not reach |or the appliance that has fallen into water. Unplug

immediately.

4. Do not place or store appliance where it can fall or be pulled into a tub or sink. Do not place in or drop into water or other liquid.

|AIAI_ l_! I<"L_

vv n , -To reducetheriskofburns,fire,electr,cshock,

or iniury to persons.

1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this appliance is used by or near children.

2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in

this manual.

4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller tree from accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

6. Do not use outdoors.

7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off f'*0"*) position, then remove plug

lrom outlet.

9. De not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.

I0. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around

the sewing machine needle.

11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

12. Do not use bent needles.

13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.

14. Switch the sewing machine off {"0-) when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading

bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like.

15.

Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other adjustments

mentioned in the instruction manual.

SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS

3. Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service center lorexamination, repair, electrical or mechanical adiustment.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

SECTION 1. KNOW THE MACHINE

A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available ................................... 3

Locate and Identify the Parts .............................................. 3 - 4

Identify the Accessories ............................................................ 4

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine ............................................................ 5 - 7

• Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power .................... 5

g Foot Control Use .................................................................. 5

• Setting Spoof Pins ................................................................ 6

• Adjt_st the Presser Foot Lever .............................................. 6

• Thread Cutter ........................................................................ 6

= Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table ............. 7

• Accessories Storage Box ...................................................... 7

• Change the Presser Foot ...................................................... 7

Choose the Needle and Thread .......................................... 7 - 8

• To Change the Needle .......................................................... 7

Check the Needle .................................................................. 8

• Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart .................. 8

Prepare the Bobbin ............................................................ 9 - 10

• To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine .................. 9

• Wind the Bobbin ............................................................ 9 ~ t0

• insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case .............................. 10

Prepare the Top Thread ................................................... 11 - 12

• Thread the Needle ............................................................... ll

• Pick Up the Bobbin Thread ................................................ 12

Adjust the Top Thread Tension ....................................... 13 - 14

Reverse Stitch Control ............................................................. 14

Stitch Selector .......................................................................... 15

Stitch Length Control .............................................................. 16

Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ............................................. 16

Starting To Sew ....................................................................... 17

SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES

Straight Stitches ............................................................... 18 - 22

• Straight Stitch ...................................................................... 18

• Use the Seam Guides ......................................................... 18

= Turn a Square Corner ......................................................... 18

• Topstitching ......................................................................... 19

• Left Needle Position ............................................................ 19

• Sew in a Zipper ............................................................ 20 ~ 21

• Use the Darning Plate ......................................................... 22

• Darning ................................................................................ 22

Zigzag Stitches ................................................................. 23 - 30

• Basic Zigzag ........................................................................ 23

,, Satin Stitch ........................................................................... 24

o Applique ............................................................................... 25

• Bar Tacking .......................................................................... 25

• Sew a Button ....................................................................... 26

o Overcasting Stitch ............................................................... 27

o Three-Step Zigzag ............................................................... 28

• Lace Work ............................................................................ 28

• Blind Hemming .................................................................... 29

• Shell Stitching ...................................................................... 30

e Box Stiching ......................................................................... 30

Stretch Stitches ................................................................ 31 ~ 30

o Straight Stretch .................................................................... 31

• Rick-Ruck Stretch ................................................................ 3t

• Smocking ............................................................................. 32

• Overcast Stretch Stitching ................................................... 32

• Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching ................................... 33

o Elastic Stretch Stitch ........................................................... 33

Buttonholes ...................................................................... 34 - 35

SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART

What to Do When ............................................................. 36 ~ 37

SECTION 5, CARE FOR THE MACHINE

Replacing the Light Bulb .......................................................... 38

Cleaning the Machine ...................................................... 38 - 39

• Clean the Feed Dogs ........................................................... 38

• Clean the Shuttle Race ....................................................... 39

Oiling the Machine ................................................................... 40

o Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and Under

Arm Cover Plate .................................................................. 40

• Oil the Underside ................................................................. 40

PA RTS LIST .................................................................................................. 41

SECTION 1. KNOW THE MACHINE

A.Portable Case or Cabinet is Available

A tulf line ot sewing cabinets is available at your nearest Sears retai lstore or through our general

catalog,

Another option , , , buy a Carrying Case . , then your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored

anywhere.

Locate and Identify the Parts

Take-up Lever

Bobbin Winding Tension Disc

Top Thread Tension Control

Face Cover Plate

Thread Cutter

Needle Plate

Upper Thread Guide

Thread Spool Pins

Bobbin Winding Spindle

Stitch Length Control

Stitch Selector

Extension Table (Accessory storage box)

Shutt}e Cover

SECTION 1, KNOW THE MACHINE

Arm Cover Plate

Hand Wheel

Auto Clutch Knob

Identify the Accessories

Carrying Handle

Presser Foot Lever

Ughl and Power Switch

Plug Connector

Presser Foot

i d

Foot Control

Clamp Screw

Nomenclature Plate

Free Arm

Needle set_

Darning plate /

__ Lint brush

Small screw driver

(__Large screw driver

j.a'o%letooi ' .

Zipper loot

Straight /_

stitch foot

Set Up the Machine

Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power

Power supply plug

Power switch

supply

COnnector

Machine p}ug

........ J

NOTE: 8etore inserting the plug into your

machine, be sure the power switch is OFF,

t. Check your outlet to be sure it is a 110 to 120 Volt

AC outlet.

2. Insert the machine plug into the three-prong plug connector, as shown, it will only fit one way.

3. Insert the power supply plug into the outlet.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Power swilch

4. Push the power switch to turn on the power and sewing light.

SAFETY FEATURE:

Your machine will not operate unless the power switch is turned on. II you are

interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the power switch to prevent injury to children.

= Foot Control Use

Fool control

% /

The foot control regulates the speed at which you sew.

To increase speed, gently press down with the bail ot your toot.

To decrease speed, release your toot pres- sure slightly.

NOTE: The toot control is sensitive and will

increase or decrease your sewing speed immediately. Practice on a scrap of fabric to regu late your sewing speed to your

taste and needs.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

= Setting Spool Pin • Adjust the Presser Foot Lever

f -_ f

The spool pins are used for holding the spools ol thread when teeding thread tothe

machine. To use, puli up the spool pins. Push down for

storage.

The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your

presser toot. You can raise it about 1/4- higher than the normat

up position tor easy removal of the presser foot or to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser

toot.

• Thread Cutter

Thread cutter

lever

You don't need a pair ot scissors to cut the thread after you finish sewing. Just use the

handy thread cutter. Pull the threads to lengthen several inches

betore starting the next seam.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Set Up the Machine (Continued)

• Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable

Extension Table

To Remove the Extension Table

(for free-arm sewing)

1. Grip the table with your index finger and thumb, as shown.

2. Pull gently to the left. The extension table will snap out.

To Attach the Extension Table

(for flat-bed sewing)

1. Insert the tab and the pin into their catches.

2. With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in.

• Accessory Storage Box

The lld ot the accessory storage box lifts open toward you.

Sewing accessories are conveni- ently located in the box.

• Change the Presser Foot

Use the correct presser toot for

the stitch you wish to sew,

To change the various presser foot, raise the presser bar to its

highest position by lifting the

presser foot lever.

Loosen the presser foot thumb

screw, choose the proper foot,

insert from the bottom.

Tighten the screw using the

large screw driver to make

certain the loot is secure.

Choose the Needle and Thread

• To Change the Needle

i t

Fla! l[

s_e [l

away II

_rom 1t

You _.

NOTE: Raise the needle bar to its highest

position by turning the hand wheel

toward you. Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it toward you.

Remove the needle by pulling it

downward.

3. Insert the new needle into the needle clamp with the flat side away from you.

4. Push the needle up as far as it will go.

5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly with the large screwdriver trom the

accessory box.

Needte clamp screw

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart

NEEDLE

FABRIC

Lightweight:

Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon, Silks, Fine Lace, Organza, Crepe, Talfeta, Voile, Organdy

SIZE AND

COLOR

11-ORANGE .....

THREAD SIZE

Polyester CoretCotton Wrap

Fine Mercerized Cotton Silk A

RECOMMENDED

STITCH LENGTH

SETTING

(12 stitches per inch)

Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are sewing.

In the needle envelope, you wilt find the toilowing color-coded needles:

Blue (11) ............ for stretch fabncs.

Orange (11 ) .......... for lightweight fabrics.

Red (14) ............ for medium or medium-heavy weight

fabrics.

Purple (16) ......... for medium-heavy weight fabrics and

decorative topstitching on these

tabrics. (This needle has a larger

thread hole for thicker topstitchlng

thread.)

Green (18) ........... for heavy weight fabrics and decora

five top-stitching on these fabrics.

Replacement Kenmore needles are available at your nearest Sears store.

• Check the Needle

1. Look for a barbed or blunt point. 2, A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in

knits, fine silks and silkqike fabrics.

Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and be strong, smooth and consistent in thickness,

Medium weight:

Cotton, Cotton Blend, Percale, Gingham, Shantung, Pique, Seersucker Satin, Knit,

Suitings, Linen,

Woot Crepe, Leather

Medium Heavy weight:

Corduroy, Denim, Wool, Sailcloth, Wool Flannel Gabardine, Velvet,

Leather

Heavy weight:

Coating, Upholstery Cotton Duck, Heavy

Twills, Canvas

Decorative top-stitching on all types of fabric

Stretch Fabric:

Polyester Double Knit, Nylon Tricot, Jersey, Stretch Terry, Spandex,

Cire Tricot

14-RED

16-PURPLE

18-GREEN

16-PURPLE

18-GREEN

1I-BLUE

(STRETCH

FABRIC

NEEDLE)

50 Mercerized Cotton Polyester CorelCotton

Wrap Silk A

50 Mercerized Cotton

Mercenzed Heavy-duty Polyester CorelCotton

Wrap

Silk A

Heavy-duty Mercerized Cotton

Polyester CoretCotton

Wrap

Silk A Buttonhole Twist

(Use as top thread only)

Polyester CoretCotton Wrap

50 Mercerized Cotton

2-2.5 (10 12 stitches

per inch)

2-3 (8-10 stitches

per inch)

3 {8 stitches per

inch)

3_4

16-8 stitches per inch)

2-2.5

(10-12 stitches

per inch)

Prepare the Bobbin

= To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine

Remove the extension tabte from the machine by pulling itto the left.

Open the shuttIe cover by pulling down the embossed part on the left side of the cover.

To remove bobbin case from shuF

tie, pull open latch of bobbin_case, Pul] bobbin case straight out ol

shuttle

o Wind the Bobbin

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Release clutch by turning the clutch

knob inside the hand wheel toward you to stop the needle trom moving

while you wind the bobbin.

Raise needle to its highest position

by rotating hand whee! toward you.

k. NOTE:

The bobbin winder stopper can be adjusted lor the amount of thread needed on the bobbin (example 1/2 full or full etc.). To make the adjustment use your

large screw driver and loosen the screw one turn or less. This will allow you to adjust the position of bobbin winder stopper. Do not take screw all the

wayout.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

= Wind the Bobbin {Continued) f

Draw thread from spool through bobbin

winding tension disc as shown.

Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case

Pull end ol thread through bobbin as shown.

hole in

Place bobbin onto bobbin winding

spindle with end of thread coming from the top ot the bobbin. Push bobbin

winding spindle to the right until it clicks.

Holding onto end of thread, start machine. When bobbin is sfightly filled,

Wind thread until winder stops. Push bobbin winding spindle to the left and clip thread. Remove bobbin. Turn clutch knob away trom you while holding hand wheel tor normal sewing operation.

snip off end of thread.

Place bobbin in bobbin case making sure thread leeds

clockwise and is coming from bobbin as shown.

Pull thread through slot of case as shown.

Pull thread under tension spring and through the opening

as shown above. Pull 3 to 4 inches of thread trom bobbin.

Holding latch open, position case into shuttle and release

latch.

%.. J

Case should lock into place

when latch is released.

Prepare the Top Thread

• Thread the Needle

The numbered steps above tollow the numbers

on the illustrations.

Dotted lines show places where the thread loops

and then is pulled tight.

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

Raise take-up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you, Raise presser toot lever,

Place spool on spool pin as shown, with thread coming from the back ot the spool,

(_ Draw thread into thread guide using both hands. (_ While holding thread near spool, draw thread down into the tension area and then around the check

spring holder, Firmly draw thread up and through take-up lever from right to left.

4(4(QDraw thread down and slip it into left side needle bar thread guide, (_) Thread needle trom front to back,

NOTE: You may want to cut the end of thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading,

SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING

• Pick Up the Bobbin Thread

1. Raise presser foot Iever. Held top threadloosely in left hand and rotate handwhee] toward you one complete

turn.

If you cannot pick up bobbin thread by following steps given above, then check:

1. Is needle threaded lrom front to back?

2, Is thread tangled around needle?

3. Are 3 to 4 inches of thread coming from the shuttle?

4, Is thread lrom shuttle tangled?

5. Is bobbin property installed in the bobbin case?

6, ls the machine threaded according to the instructions?

2, Bring bobbin thread up by pulling top

thread.

3. Pull both threads under and to the back of the presser toot, leaving 4 to 6

inches of thread clear.

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