Kenmore 38512514590 Owner’s Manual
OWNER'S MANUAL
SEA/RS
SEWING MACHINE
MODEL 3 4
SEARS, ROEBUCKANDCO.
Dear Customer:
You have just invested in a very fine z_gzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine,
please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet Which contains instructions on how to operate
and care for your machine.
Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you
obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.
Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store.
Please remember, if you have q,#estions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention
the model number and serial number when you inquire.
Kenmore Sewing Machine
Record in space provided below t he model number and serial
number of this appliance. The model number and serial number
are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 4 of
this booklet.
Model No. 385. Seria{ No.
Retain these numbers lot future reference.
THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE.
IMPORTANT SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS
Your sewing machine is designed and constructed only for HOUSEHOLD use.
Read all instruction before using this sewing machine.
DANGER--toreduce the risk ot electric shock:
1. An appliance should never be left unattended when pluggedin_ Always
unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using and
before cleaning.
2. Always unplug before relampmg. Replace bulb with same type rated 15
Watts.
3. Do not reach |or the appliance that has fallen into water. Unplug
immediately.
4. Do not place or store appliance where it can fall or be pulled into a tub or
sink. Do not place in or drop into water or other liquid.
|AIAI_ l_! I<"L_
vv n , -To reducetheriskofburns,fire,electr,cshock,
or iniury to persons.
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this
appliance is used by or near children.
2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this manual.
Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in
this manual.
4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked. Keep
ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller tree from
accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where
oxygen is being administered.
8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off f'*0"*) position, then remove plug
lrom outlet.
9. De not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
I0. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around
the sewing machine needle.
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the
needle to break.
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching.
It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14. Switch the sewing machine off {"0-) when making any adjustment in the
needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading
bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like.
15.
Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when
removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other adjustments
mentioned in the instruction manual.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
3. Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not
working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into
water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service
center lorexamination, repair, electrical or mechanical adiustment.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION 1. KNOW THE MACHINE
A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available ................................... 3
Locate and Identify the Parts .............................................. 3 - 4
Identify the Accessories ............................................................ 4
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine ............................................................ 5 - 7
• Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power .................... 5
g Foot Control Use .................................................................. 5
• Setting Spoof Pins ................................................................ 6
• Adjt_st the Presser Foot Lever .............................................. 6
• Thread Cutter ........................................................................ 6
= Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table ............. 7
• Accessories Storage Box ...................................................... 7
• Change the Presser Foot ...................................................... 7
Choose the Needle and Thread .......................................... 7 - 8
• To Change the Needle .......................................................... 7
Check the Needle .................................................................. 8
• Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart .................. 8
Prepare the Bobbin ............................................................ 9 - 10
• To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine .................. 9
• Wind the Bobbin ............................................................ 9 ~ t0
• insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case .............................. 10
Prepare the Top Thread ................................................... 11 - 12
• Thread the Needle ............................................................... ll
• Pick Up the Bobbin Thread ................................................ 12
Adjust the Top Thread Tension ....................................... 13 - 14
Reverse Stitch Control ............................................................. 14
Stitch Selector .......................................................................... 15
Stitch Length Control .............................................................. 16
Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance ............................................. 16
Starting To Sew ....................................................................... 17
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES
Straight Stitches ............................................................... 18 - 22
• Straight Stitch ...................................................................... 18
• Use the Seam Guides ......................................................... 18
= Turn a Square Corner ......................................................... 18
• Topstitching ......................................................................... 19
• Left Needle Position ............................................................ 19
• Sew in a Zipper ............................................................ 20 ~ 21
• Use the Darning Plate ......................................................... 22
• Darning ................................................................................ 22
Zigzag Stitches ................................................................. 23 - 30
• Basic Zigzag ........................................................................ 23
,, Satin Stitch ........................................................................... 24
o Applique ............................................................................... 25
• Bar Tacking .......................................................................... 25
• Sew a Button ....................................................................... 26
o Overcasting Stitch ............................................................... 27
o Three-Step Zigzag ............................................................... 28
• Lace Work ............................................................................ 28
• Blind Hemming .................................................................... 29
• Shell Stitching ...................................................................... 30
e Box Stiching ......................................................................... 30
Stretch Stitches ................................................................ 31 ~ 30
o Straight Stretch .................................................................... 31
• Rick-Ruck Stretch ................................................................ 3t
• Smocking ............................................................................. 32
• Overcast Stretch Stitching ................................................... 32
• Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching ................................... 33
o Elastic Stretch Stitch ........................................................... 33
Buttonholes ...................................................................... 34 - 35
SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART
What to Do When ............................................................. 36 ~ 37
SECTION 5, CARE FOR THE MACHINE
Replacing the Light Bulb .......................................................... 38
Cleaning the Machine ...................................................... 38 - 39
• Clean the Feed Dogs ........................................................... 38
• Clean the Shuttle Race ....................................................... 39
Oiling the Machine ................................................................... 40
o Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and Under
Arm Cover Plate .................................................................. 40
• Oil the Underside ................................................................. 40
PA RTS LIST .................................................................................................. 41
SECTION 1. KNOW THE MACHINE
A.Portable Case or Cabinet is Available
A tulf line ot sewing cabinets is available at your
nearest Sears retai lstore or through our general
catalog,
Another option , , , buy a Carrying Case . , then
your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored
anywhere.
f
Locate and Identify the Parts
Take-up Lever
Bobbin Winding Tension Disc
Top Thread Tension Control
Face Cover Plate
Thread Cutter
Needle Plate
\
Upper Thread Guide
Thread Spool Pins
Bobbin Winding Spindle
Stitch Length Control
Stitch Selector
Extension Table
(Accessory storage box)
Shutt}e Cover
SECTION 1, KNOW THE MACHINE
Arm Cover Plate
Hand Wheel
Auto Clutch Knob
Identify the Accessories
Carrying Handle
Presser Foot Lever
Ughl and
Power Switch
Plug Connector
Presser Foot
4
i d
Foot Control
le
Clamp Screw
Nomenclature Plate
\
Free Arm
Needle set_
Darning plate /
__ Lint brush
Small screw driver
(__Large screw driver
j.a'o%letooi ' .
Zipper loot
Straight /_
stitch foot
Set Up the Machine
Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power
f
Power supply plug
Power switch
supply
\
COnnector
Machine p}ug
........ J
NOTE: 8etore inserting the plug into your
machine, be sure the power switch is OFF,
t. Check your outlet to be sure it is a 110 to 120 Volt
AC outlet.
2. Insert the machine plug into the three-prong plug
connector, as shown, it will only fit one way.
3. Insert the power supply plug into the outlet.
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
Power swilch
4. Push the power switch to turn on the
power and sewing light.
SAFETY FEATURE:
Your machine will not operate unless the
power switch is turned on. II you are
interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the
power switch to prevent injury to children.
%
= Foot Control Use
f
/
Fool control
% /
The foot control regulates the speed at which
you sew.
To increase speed, gently press down with
the bail ot your toot.
To decrease speed, release your toot pres-
sure slightly.
NOTE: The toot control is sensitive and will
increase or decrease your sewing
speed immediately.
Practice on a scrap of fabric to regu
late your sewing speed to your
taste and needs.
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
= Setting Spool Pin • Adjust the Presser Foot Lever
f -_ f
t
The spool pins are used for holding the
spools ol thread when teeding thread tothe
machine.
To use, puli up the spool pins. Push down for
storage.
The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your
presser toot.
You can raise it about 1/4- higher than the normat
up position tor easy removal of the presser foot or
to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser
toot.
• Thread Cutter
/"
Thread cutter
\
\
lever
You don't need a pair ot scissors to cut the
thread after you finish sewing. Just use the
handy thread cutter.
Pull the threads to lengthen several inches
betore starting the next seam.
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine (Continued)
• Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable
Extension Table
f-
To Remove the Extension Table
(for free-arm sewing)
1. Grip the table with your index finger
and thumb, as shown.
2. Pull gently to the left. The extension
table will snap out.
To Attach the Extension Table
(for flat-bed sewing)
1. Insert the tab and the pin into their
catches.
2. With your thumb and index finger,
gently snap in.
• Accessory Storage Box
r
J
The lld ot the accessory storage
box lifts open toward you.
Sewing accessories are conveni-
ently located in the box.
• Change the Presser Foot
G
J
Use the correct presser toot for
the stitch you wish to sew,
To change the various presser
foot, raise the presser bar to its
highest position by lifting the
presser foot lever.
Loosen the presser foot thumb
screw, choose the proper foot,
insert from the bottom.
Tighten the screw using the
large screw driver to make
certain the loot is secure.
Choose the Needle and Thread
• To Change the Needle
i t
Fla! l[
s_e [l
away II
J
_rom 1t
You _.
NOTE: Raise the needle bar to its highest
position by turning the hand wheel
toward you.
Loosen the needle clamp screw by
turning it toward you.
2.
Remove the needle by pulling it
downward.
3. Insert the new needle into the needle
clamp with the flat side away from you.
4. Push the needle up as far as it will go.
5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly
with the large screwdriver trom the
accessory box.
Needte clamp screw
J
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart
NEEDLE
FABRIC
Lightweight:
Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon,
Silks, Fine Lace, Organza,
Crepe, Talfeta, Voile,
Organdy
SIZE AND
COLOR
11-ORANGE .....
THREAD SIZE
Polyester CoretCotton
Wrap
Fine Mercerized Cotton
Silk A
RECOMMENDED
STITCH LENGTH
SETTING
2
(12 stitches per
inch)
Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are
sewing.
In the needle envelope, you wilt find the toilowing color-coded
needles:
Blue (11) ............ for stretch fabncs.
Orange (11 ) .......... for lightweight fabrics.
Red (14) ............ for medium or medium-heavy weight
fabrics.
Purple (16) ......... for medium-heavy weight fabrics and
decorative topstitching on these
tabrics. (This needle has a larger
thread hole for thicker topstitchlng
thread.)
Green (18) ........... for heavy weight fabrics and decora
five top-stitching on these fabrics.
Replacement Kenmore needles are available at your nearest
Sears store.
• Check the Needle
1. Look for a barbed or blunt point.
2, A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in
knits, fine silks and silkqike fabrics.
Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and be
strong, smooth and consistent in thickness,
Medium weight:
Cotton, Cotton Blend,
Percale, Gingham,
Shantung, Pique,
Seersucker Satin, Knit,
Suitings, Linen,
Woot Crepe, Leather
Medium Heavy weight:
Corduroy, Denim, Wool,
Sailcloth, Wool Flannel
Gabardine, Velvet,
Leather
Heavy weight:
Coating, Upholstery
Cotton Duck, Heavy
Twills, Canvas
Decorative top-stitching
on all types of fabric
Stretch Fabric:
Polyester Double Knit,
Nylon Tricot, Jersey,
Stretch Terry, Spandex,
Cire Tricot
14-RED
14-RED
or
16-PURPLE
18-GREEN
16-PURPLE
18-GREEN
1I-BLUE
(STRETCH
FABRIC
NEEDLE)
50 Mercerized Cotton
Polyester CorelCotton
Wrap
Silk A
50 Mercerized Cotton
Mercenzed Heavy-duty
Polyester CorelCotton
Wrap
Silk A
Heavy-duty Mercerized
Cotton
Polyester CoretCotton
Wrap
Silk A
Buttonhole Twist
(Use as top thread only)
Polyester CoretCotton
Wrap
50 Mercerized Cotton
2-2.5
(10 12 stitches
per inch)
2-3
(8-10 stitches
per inch)
3
{8 stitches per
inch)
3_4
16-8 stitches
per inch)
2-2.5
(10-12 stitches
per inch)
Prepare the Bobbin
= To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine
Remove the extension tabte from
the machine by pulling itto the left.
Open the shuttIe cover by pulling
down the embossed part on the left
side of the cover.
To remove bobbin case from shuF
tie, pull open latch of bobbin_case,
Pul] bobbin case straight out ol
shuttle
o Wind the Bobbin
J
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
Release clutch by turning the clutch
knob inside the hand wheel toward
you to stop the needle trom moving
while you wind the bobbin.
fJ
Raise needle to its highest position
by rotating hand whee! toward you.
k.
NOTE:
\
The bobbin winder stopper can be adjusted lor the amount of thread needed
on the bobbin (example 1/2 full or full etc.). To make the adjustment use your
large screw driver and loosen the screw one turn or less. This will allow you
to adjust the position of bobbin winder stopper. Do not take screw all the
wayout.
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
= Wind the Bobbin {Continued)
f
Draw thread from spool through bobbin
winding tension disc as shown.
Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case
f
Pull end ol thread through
bobbin as shown.
7
hole in
J
Place bobbin onto bobbin winding
spindle with end of thread coming from
the top ot the bobbin. Push bobbin
winding spindle to the right until it clicks.
Holding onto end of thread, start
machine. When bobbin is sfightly filled,
J
Wind thread until winder stops.
Push bobbin winding spindle to the left
and clip thread. Remove bobbin.
Turn clutch knob away trom you while
holding hand wheel tor normal sewing
operation.
snip off end of thread.
f
f
Place bobbin in bobbin case
making sure thread leeds
clockwise and is coming from
bobbin as shown.
10
Pull thread through slot of case
as shown.
Pull thread under tension
spring and through the opening
as shown above. Pull 3 to 4
inches of thread trom bobbin.
Holding latch open, position
case into shuttle and release
latch.
%.. J
Case should lock into place
when latch is released.
Prepare the Top Thread
• Thread the Needle
The numbered steps above tollow the numbers
on the illustrations.
Dotted lines show places where the thread loops
and then is pulled tight.
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
Raise take-up lever to its highest position by turning hand wheel toward you,
Raise presser toot lever,
Place spool on spool pin as shown, with thread coming from the back ot the spool,
(_ Draw thread into thread guide using both hands.
(_ While holding thread near spool, draw thread down into the tension area and then around the check
spring holder,
Firmly draw thread up and through take-up lever from right to left.
4(4(QDraw thread down and slip it into left side needle bar thread guide,
(_) Thread needle trom front to back,
NOTE: You may want to cut the end of thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading,
11
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
• Pick Up the Bobbin Thread
T
1. Raise presser foot Iever. Held top
threadloosely in left hand and rotate
handwhee] toward you one complete
turn.
If you cannot pick up bobbin thread by following steps given above, then check:
1. Is needle threaded lrom front to back?
2, Is thread tangled around needle?
3. Are 3 to 4 inches of thread coming from the shuttle?
4, Is thread lrom shuttle tangled?
5. Is bobbin property installed in the bobbin case?
6, ls the machine threaded according to the instructions?
12
2, Bring bobbin thread up by pulling top
thread.
3. Pull both threads under and to the back
of the presser toot, leaving 4 to 6
inches of thread clear.
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