Kenmore 3851249380 Owner’s Manual

Kenmor'e

SEWING MACHINE 12493

OWNER'S MA

P/N 648800071

Sears, Roebuck and Co.

Dear Homemaker: You have just invested in a very finezigzag sewing machine.

Before using your new Kenmore machine, please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate and care for your machine.

Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense

for conditions beyond our control. Advice on the operation and care.of your machine is always

available at your nearest Sears Retail Store. Please remember,

if you have questions about your machine, always mention the

model number and serial number when you inquire.

Kenmore Sewing Machine

Record in space provided below the model

number and serial number of this appliance. The model number and serial number are

located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 2 of this booklet.

Model No.385. Serial No.

Retain these numbers for future reference.

....i!,::!i_i!!!i_i:,

TABLE OF CONTENTS

KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE

Machine identification .................... 2

Accessories ........................... 4

Setting spool pins ....................... 5

Installing extension table .................. 5

Pressure regulator, Presser foot lever ........... 6

Presser feet, Speed control plug .............. 7

Light and power switch, Sewing light .......... 8

Foot control, Seam guides, Darning plate ....... 9

Needle, thread and fabric chart .............. 10

Needles, Placement of needle ............... 11

Winding the bobbin ...................... 12

Threading the bobbin case ................. 13

Threading top thread... .................. 14

Picking up bobbin thread .................. 15

Adjusting top thread tensions ............... 16

Adjusting bobbin tensions ................. 16

STARTING TO SEW ..................... 17

SIMPLE SEWING

Straight stitching ....................... 18

Fastening a seam, Turning a square corner

Zigzag stitching ........................ 20

Checking tensions, Overcasting,

Interfacing darts STRETCH AND UTILITY STITCH SEWING

Stretch stitching ........................ 22

Adjusting stretch stitch balance .............. 22

Straight stretch stitching .................. 23

Rick-rack stretch stitching ................. 24

Smocking stretch stitching ................. 25

Overcast stretch stitching .................. 26

Serging or pine leaf stretch stitching ........... 27

Buttonhole making ...................... 28

Adjusting buttonhole stitch balance ........... 30

Shell stitching ......................... 30

Blind hemming ......................... 31

Satin stitching, Appliqueing ................ 32

Zipper application ...................... 33

Mending, Darning ....................... 34

Button sewing, Bar tacking ................. 35

Free-arm sewing ........................ 36

CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS ...... 36

CARING FOR THE MACHINE

Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle .............. 39

Oiling under arm cover plate ................ 40

Oiling underside ........................ 41

Oiling in face cover plate .................. 42

Parts list ........ ..................... 44

USING PORTABLE CASE OR CABINET ....... 45

_KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE L_:

bIACIdlNE IDENTIFICATION

Prbssure Regulator

Upper Thread Guides

Bobbin Winder

Take-up Lever

Face Cover Plate Light and Power Switch

Extension Table

Shuttle Cover

Support Leg

Arm Cover Plate

Buttonhole Stitch Adjustor

Thread Guide

Needle Clamp

Screw

Thread Spool Pins

Hand Wheel

Clutch Knob

Electric Cord Receptacle _/

Thread Guide

Needle Plate

Presser Foot Thumb Screw

Presser Foot

"_. Presser Foot Lever

-__Free Arm

\ Nomenclature Plate

1. Top Thread Tension Control

2, Stitch Selector

3. Stitch Length Control

4, Reverse Stitch Control

ACCESSORI ES

Accessory box

Bobbin

Needle set

Darning plate

Buttonhole opener

Small screw driver

Large screw driver

Thread spool pin Nylon disc

\ /

Buttonhole guide foot

Foot control

Satin stitch foot

Zipper foot

Owner's manual

SETTING SPOOL PINS

Spool Pins are packed in accessory box. Screw thread spool pins in place securely with a screw driver.

Position nylon discs as shown in illustration.

NSTALLING EXTENSION TABLE

For all flat-bed sewing use the extension table provided with the machine. To install the extension table, simply slide the table along the free arm until the two Pins (A) and (B) enter fitting holes in the machine.

Lower the support leg.

To utilize free-arm feature for sewing tubular material, remove the extension table from the machine by pulling it to the left.

PRESSURE REGULATOR

Push down the outer ring of the pressure regulator. This will release the pressure on the

presser foot. (See above). To increase the pressure, push down inner pin until suitable pressure is obtained.

Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric, skipped stitches, or difficulty

in guiding the fabric. If feed dogs or presser foot marks appear on the fabric, reduce the pressure.

When sewing multiple thickness or heavy fabric, reduce the pressure. Increase pressure when sewing lighter weight fabrics.

PRESSER FOOT LEVER

To aid you in the placement of heavy

fabrics under the presser foot, the lever

can raise foot beyond the normal "up" position. This is also an aid in changing

your presser feet,

PRESSER FEET

To change the various presser feet, raise the presser bar to its highest position by

lifting the presser foot lever. Loosen the presser foot thumb screw, choose the proper foot, insert from the bottom.

Tighten the screw using the large screw driver to make certain the foot is secure.

SPEED CONTROL PLUG

Push the speed control plug onto three prong connector.

Plug machine cord into any 110 _ 120 volt wall outlet.

LIGHT AND POWER SWITCH

Turn on power by pushing light and power switch.

Important safety feature

Your machine will not operate unless the light/power switch is turned on. Turning

on the power automatically illuminates

the whole stitching area. If you're inter-

rupted or stop sewing, turn off light/ power switch.

SL_#tklG LiGH

The sewing light is located in the face cover as shown. To replace the bulb,

turn the light off and open the face cover, Push the bulb up and turn the bulb counter-clockwise and remove it

from the socket. Push a new bulb in and turn it clockwise.

NOTE:

First, unplug the machine prior to re-

moving and replacing the bulb. Be awar,e that the light bulb may be warm.

Coiner ng Gu de

FOOTCONTROL

Step on this control to start to sew. The harder you press on the control, the

faster the machine will sew. Slow down

by reducing foot pressure on the control. You may want to practice your speed at different levels when you first use the

machine.

SEAM _"_d[DES

Seam guides are printed on either side of the needle plate to aid you in guiding your fabric. THE GUIDE LINE EX-

TENDING ALONG THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE NEEDLE PLATE IS THE "ALL

IMPORTANT" 5/8" SEAM LINE.

The cornering guides are convenient when turning a square corner 5/8" from the fabric edge. See next section of this book

for directions.

DARN!NG PLATE

There are a few times when you want to

control the feeding of the fabric yourself.

Raise needle to its highest position and

raise presser foot, Place darning plate over needle plate aligning two pins of darning plate with holes of needle plate.

Your may then determine the movement

of the fabric yourself. See page 35 for

button sewing application.

NEEDLE_THREADAND FABRIC CHART

12 stitches

per inch

10 to 12 stitches

per inch

8 to 10 stitches

per inch

8 stitches

oer inch

6 stitches

per inch

10 for Regular

6 for Stretch

Stitches

NEEDLES

Use KENMORE needles, The size of the needle should conform with the size of the thread and both should suit the fabric. Kenmore needles are color-coded

by size for your convenience (See chart on facing page).

Never use a bent needle or one with a dull point.

The exact length of your needle is shown

at left. Be sure you never use one in

your machine that is not this exact

length.

You will find among your accessories a

Q NEEDLEr"with blue shank.This special

needle is to be used when sewing knits

and certain difficult synthetic fabrics. If

you experience skipped stitches in any of

your sewing, use Q NEEDLE TM and

Q FOOT'" *

* Available at most Sears retail stores and

catalog.

PLACEMENT OF NEEDtE

Raise needle bar to its highest position by

turnir_g the hand wheel toward you.

Loosen the needle clamp screw. Holding the needle with the flat side away from you, slip the needle into the needle bar. When it is in as far as it will go, tighten the needle clamp screw with small screw- driver provided in the accessory box.

WINDING THE BOBBIN

1. Release clutch by turning clutch knob toward you.

2. Draw thread from spool through

bobbin winder tension disc as shown.

3. Pull end of thread through hole in

bobbin as shown.

4. Place bobbin onto bobbin winder shaft with end of thread coming from

the top of the bobbin. Push bobbin

winder shaft to the right until it clicks.

Holding onto end of thread, start machine. When bobbin is slightly

filled, snip off end of thread.

5, Wind thread until winder stops.

Remove bobbitl. Clip thread.

6. Tighten clutch knob.

1. Remove the extension table from the machine by pulling it to the left.

Open the shuttle cover by pulling

down the embossed part on the left side of the cover.

2. Raise needle to its highest position by rotating hand wheel toward you.

3. To remove bobbin case from shuttle, pull open latch of bobbin case.

Pull bobbin case straight out of shuttle.

4. Insert bobbin into bobbin case making sure thread is coming from bobbin as

shown.

5. Pull thread through slot of case as

shown. Pull thread under tension spring.

6. Holding latch open, position case into

shuttle, and release latch. Case should lock into place when latch is released.

THREADING TOP THREAD

' I "_'f

Place spool on spool pin as shown, with thread coming from the back of the spool.

Draw thread through top thread guides. Holding spool stationary with right hand,

pull the end of the thread between the tension discs as shown above (_.

Pull the end of the thread taut with left hand. This will pull the spring wire up

and past the end of the hook. The thread

will then slip into the hook when the

spring is released as in (_ .

Release spool of thread and thread

machine through take-up lever (_ and thread guide (6) as shown above. Thread

then passes through guides (_ and (_. Thread needle _ from front to rear.

-,ING bi :_ BOBBIN THREAD

1. Raise presser foot lever. Hold needle thread loosely in left hand and rotate handwheel toward you one complete

turn.

2. Bring bobbin thread up by pulling

upper thread.

3. Pull both threads under and to the back of the presser foot, leaving 3 to

4 inches of thread clear.

If you cannot pick up bottom thread by

following steps given above, then check:

1. Is needle threaded from front to back?

2. Is thread tangled around needle?

3. Is there 3 to 4 inches of thread coming from the bobbin case?

4. Is thread from bobbin case tangled?

ADJUSTING TOP THREAD

TENSIONS

Probably the most important control on your machine is this one that regulates your top thread tension.

There are many reasons for having to

reset your tension. The best tension for

one fabric may not be correct for another.

The required tension depends upon the stiffness of the fabric, thickness of the

fabric, numbers of layers of fabric being

se,wn, as well as the type of stitch you are

making.

It is best to test the stitching on a scrap of the fabric you are using before starting to make a garment. Use the straight stitch

function as shown at the right.

i!ilii!

ADJUSTING BOBBIN

TENSIOH_

Bobbin tension requires adjusting less

frequently than the upper thread tension.

If the stitch is satisfactory but the seam is puckered, it may be necessary to loosen

the tension on both the top and bottom

threads. Be sure to balance them.

When adjusting the tension on the bobbin

case, make slight adjustments with a ..........

screw driver.

........... !!if{( _ ...........

....ART N( TO SEW

Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing machine. Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew:

1. Test the needle it should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. It should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be afraid to change your needle frequently. Many of the new fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural fibers.

2. Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine. Hold on to threads during the sewing

of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam.

3. Test the machine stitch on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. The fabric should be double thickness. Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and tension suitable to

your fabric.

4. Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8" seam marking on the needle plate when making a simple seam.

5. Run the machine at a slow even speed. The more pressure you put on the foot control, the faster the machine will sew.

6. Fasten each seam by back tacking at the beginning and end of the seam.

7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point.

8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle. Never pull or hold the fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered.

9. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you.

SIMPLE SEWING ...........

STRAIGHT STITCHI IC

Top thread tension control 3 to 6 Stitch selector

Presser foot

Stitch length control

12 to6

You will find in garment construction that you are doing two types of sewing-temporary and permanent.

1. Temporary stitching-Usually the longest stitch possible and often done on a single layer of fabric. The various types of temporary stitching are:

Basting

Stay stitching

Guide line marking

2. Permanent stitching. This is the actual stitching that holds the garment together. Much of this stitching is visible on the outside of the garment and therefore must be good

looking.

The best length stitch to use for medium weight fabrics is 10-12 stitches per inch. This is in the middle range of the Stitch Length Control.

You must remember to lengthen the stitch for heavier fabrics, multiple layers of fabric and thicker seams. Some of these seams are:

Common two layer seams Curved two layer seams

Top stitched three layer seams Top stitched four layer seams

When you have two seams crossing each other with considerable thickness, sew slowly and carefully so the seam will be as strong as possible in this area.

i ; }i

FASTENING A SEAM

Be sure both threads are drawn back under the presser foot. Lower needle into fabric about 1/2 inch from begin-

ning of seam. Turn thereverse stitch control clockwise and stitch in reverse

until needle reaches beginning of seam.

Release control and complete seam.

When you reach the end, turn the con- trol clockwise and sew back over 1/2

inch of completed seam.

TURNING A SQUARE CORNER

To turn a square corner 5/8" from the fabric edge, stop stitching with the needle tip piercing the fabric, when reaching the cornering guide as shown. Raise the

presser fopt, turn fabric. New stitching

line will align with 5/8" seam guide on

side of needle plate. Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in new direction.

ZIGZAG STITCHING

Top thread tension

control 0 to 4 Stitch selector

Presser foot

This type of stitching greatly expands the use of your machine. This is the feature that enables you to overcast seams, applique and sew on buttons. Using the range of widths as

indicated on the central dial, you can sew any width you desire. Since this is a range, you may set the dial between the illustrated widths.

The following pages will give you directions for utilizing your machine to its greatest potential.

Stitch length control 24 to 6

CHECKING TENSIONS

The easiest way to check tensions is to sew a medium zigzag stitch on the fabric UNDESIRABLE DESIRABLE

you will be using. •.... ::::;::';_::,.-;_ ;i::::::;:;,':t:;::;..

Use the appropriate type of thread and ........ "" ....

needle. Use different colors of thread on "'_::;:"":'°.........." "'"'"'" "'°i ..............

the bobbin and upper spool. ........ " ...........

...."..... "..... i i: !iii

Sew a line of medium zig-zag stitches. "':-'_'_:' ":'::::-': ....................

The bobbin thread should not show on 1,:;::::o .-':::::,:

the top of the fabric. °.... ' .... ""::":;"

Adjust the top tension if necessary to ._'_",:':;_., ._. ....

achieve the stitch formation mentioned ii;:;:': ": ":"::::

above. _: ....... "..... ,_;

TOP SIDE OF FABRIC

OVERCASTING

Fig. 1

Fig. 2

I /

t /

I I

This is one of the more frequently used zigzag stitches in garment construction. You may want to overcast along the raw edge of each seam allowance or fold the raw edge toward the garment and stitch.

Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished. Fig. 2 illustrates the folded edge stitched.

Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just short of the outside edge. Raw or

worn edges of older garments can be overcast to prevent further raveling.

INTERFACING DARTS

To reduce bulk of interfacing darts, cut interfacing down center between dart lines. Overlap cut edges, matching dart

lines. Zigzag stitch along marking line from point to wide end of dart. Trim

'both raw edges close to stitching.

STRETCH AND UTILITY STITCH SEWING .......

STRETCH STITCHING

The stitches shown below are all for use with stretch and.knit fabrics. These are special stitches built in to the machine for your quick selection.

@ ®@

/\/

\/\

/\/

\/\

/\/

\/\

/\/

\/\

/\/

\/\

./\/

1. Straight Stretch

2. Rickrack Stretch

3. Overcast Stretch

4. Smocking Stretch

5. Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch

ADJUSTING STRETCH STITCH BALANCE

In stretch stitch sewing, Stitch Length Control should be in the detent position between S and L ( • position) for most materials. Depending upon the type of fabric used, you may need to adjust this

control to match forward stitches of stretch sewing with reverse motion

stitches. To shorten stretch stitches, turn

the control slightly toward "S". To

lengthen, turn toward "L".

R ECO _/!_/1EN D A,T ION

1. It is recommended that the "Q" needle and "Q" foot be used for

sewing knits and synthetic fabrics.

2. It may be necessary to use a backing with very soft fabrics. Tissue paper

is usually available. It can be torn

away from seam after sewing.

STRAIGHT STRETCI4 STITCHING

Top thread tension control 3 to 6

Stitch selector

Presser foot

Stitch length control

Use this stretch stitch with knitted fabric

and other fabrics that stretch. Sew as you do with regular straight stitch seaming. The seam may be pressed open

as with any regular seam, but will stretch

if necessary. This is also a good stitch to use on curved

seams regardless of the type of fabric.

Any seam that will receive a great deal of

strain when worn should be sewn with the stretch stitch. Use in children's shorts

and slacks as well as adult sports clothes.

OVERCAST STRETCH

5 rSTCHING

Top thread tension control 0 to 4

Stitch selector

Presser foot

Stitch length control

This is the same type of stitch used by the garment industry in making sports-

wear. It is used for seams of 3/8" to

1/4". The seam is formed and finished in

one operation. It must be used when you are making swimwear, ski pants and other

garments that require stretch.

Fig. 1 shows the raw edge finished.

Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just

short of the outside edge.

Raw or worn edges of older garments can

be overcast to prevent further raveling.

8ERGING OR PINE LEAF STRETCiI STtt 6i-_tt,_

Top thread tension control 0 to 4

Stitch selector

Presser foot

Stitch length control

The ser_ling or pine leaf stretch stitch is

equally useful with woven and knitted fabrics. This stitch can be used in making elastic swimwear, as well as overcasting a

neat edge on the seams.

BUTTONHOLE MAKING

Top thread tension control 0 to 4

Stitch selector

Presser foot

Stitch length control

Carefully mark the buttonhole length on your garment. Place the fabric with the buttonhole marked under the

buttonhole foot. Pull the guide foot

(A) all the way forward so that the

index mark (B) is aligned with the graduation (C), with thread to rear.

(Reproduction of the identical size

buttonholes is facilitated with the aid of the graduations on the left side of

the buttonhole guide foot. These gra- duations are 1/5" apart. Graduations

act as reference mark.)

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