Page 1
OWNER'S MANUAL
SEWING MACHINE
MODELS 385. 11607
385. 12614
Page 2
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO.
Dear Customer:
You have just invested in a very fine zigzag sewing machine. Before using your new Kenmore machine,
please pause for a moment and carefully read this booklet which contains instructions on how to operate
and care for your machine.
Specific instructions are given on threading, tension adjustments, cleaning, oiling, etc. This will help you
obtain the best sewing results and avoid unnecessary service expense for conditions beyond our control.
Advice on the operation and care of your machine is always available at your nearest Sears Retail Store.
Please remember, if you have questions about your machine or need parts and service, always mention
the model number and serial number when you inquire.
Kenmore Sewing Machine
Record in space provided below the model number and serial
number of this appliance. The model number and serial number
are located on the nomenclature plate, as identified on Page 4 of
this booklet.
Model No. 385._
Retain these numbers for future reference.
THIS MODEL IS A CENTER NEEDLE, LOW BAR SEWING MACHINE.
Serial No..
Page 3
IMPORTANT SAFETY
INSTRUCTIONS
Your sewing machine is designed and constructed only for HOUSEHOLD use.
Read all instruction before using this sewing machine.
DANGER
An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always
1.
unplug this appliance from the electric outlet immediately after using
and before cleaning.
2. Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated
15 Watts.
3. Do not reach for the appliance that has fallen into water. Unplug
immediately.
4. Do not place or store appliance where it can fall or be pulled into a tub
or sink. Do not place in or drop into water or other liquid.
WARNING
or injury to persons.
1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this
appliance is used by or near children.
2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this manual.
Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in
this manual.
3. Never operate this appliance if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not
working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into
water. Return the appliance to the nearest authorized dealer or service
center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
■ To reduce the risk of electric shock:
■To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock.
4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked. Keep
ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from
accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
6. Do not use outdoors.
7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where
oxygen is being administered.
8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (“O") position, then remove
plug from outlet.
9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the
cord.
10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required
around the sewing machine needle.
11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the
needle to break.
12. Do not use bent needles.
13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching.
It may deflect the needle causing it to break.
14. Switch the sewing machine off ("O") when making any adjustment in
the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading
bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like.
15. Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when
removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other adjustments
mentioned in the instruction manual.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
Page 4
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SECTION 1.
KNOW THE MACHINE
A Portable Case or Cabinet is Avaialble............................................................. 3
Locate and Identify the Parts........................................................................ 3~4
Identify the Accessories........................................................................................4
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine.......................................................................................... 5~7
» Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power ............................................... 5
• Foot Control Use.....................................................................
• Setting Spool Pins.......................................................................................... 6
• Adjust the Presser Foot Lever
• Thread Cutter ................................................................................................. 6
• Free Arm Sewing: the Removable Extension Table ... 7
® Accessories Storage Box.................................................................................. 7
» Change the Presser Foot................................................................................. 7
Choose the Needle and Thread ...................................................................... 7~8
® To Change the Needle...................................................................................... 7
• Check the Needle........................................................................................... 8
® Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart
Prepare the Bobbin......................................................................................... 9~10
® To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine
e Wind the Bobbin
® Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case
Prepare the Top Thread................................................................................11~12
» Thread the Needle ......................................................................................... 11
® Pick Up the Bobbin Thread
Adjust the Top Thread Tension.....................................................................13~14
Reverse Stitch Control........................................................................................ 14
Stitch Selector................................................................................................... 15
Stitch Length Control.......................................................................................... 16
Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance (Model 12614 only) ... 16
Starting To Sew................................................................................................. 17
.........................................................................................
......................................................................
.........................................................................
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES
Straight Stitches.............................................................................................18~22
• Straight Stitch
® Use the Seam Guides.................................................................................... 18
® Turn a Square Corner.................................................................................. 18
® Topstitching..................................................................................................... 19
® Left Needle Position
® Sew in a Zipper
.............................................................................................
..............................................................................
....................................................................................
.....................
............................................
............................
.......................................................
...............
...
20~21
9~10
. 19
10
12
18
® Use the Darning Plate.................................................................................. 22
* Darning ........................................................................................................ 22
Zigzag Stitches..............................................................................................23~30
Basic Zigzag................................................................................................. 23
Satin Stitch.................................................................................................... 24
Applique....................................................................................................... 25
Bar Tacking................................................................................................... 25
Sew a Button................................................................................................. 26
Overcasting Stitch......................................................................................... 27
5
6
8
9
Three-Step Zigzag........................................................................................ 28
Lace Work..................................................................................................... 28
Blind Hemming
Shell Stitching............................................................................................... 30
Box Stitching................................................................................................. 30
Stretch Stitches (Model 12614 only) .............................................................31~33
Straight Stretch
Rick-Ruck Stretch ....................................................................................... 31
Smocking...................................................................................................... 32
Overcast Stretch Stitching ........................................................................... 32
Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching......................................................... 33
» Elastic Stretch Stitch.................................................................................... 33
Buttonholes....................................................................................................34~35
............................................................................................
............................................................................................
29
31
SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART
What to Do When
36-37
SECTION 5. CARE FOR THE MACHINE
Replacing the Light Bulb..................................................................................... 38
Cleaning the Machine
• Clean the Feed Dogs........................................................................................ 38
® Clean the Shuttle Race .................................................................................. 39
Oiling the Machine.............................................................................................. 40
» Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and Under
Arm Cover Plate............................................................................................ 40
® Oil the Underside............................................................................................. 40
.................................................................................
38—39
PARTS LIST.................................................................................................................... 41
INDEX ................................................................................................................ 42
2
Page 5
SECTION 1. KNOW THE MACHINE
A Portable Case or Cabinet is Available
A full line of sewing cabinets is available at your
nearest Sears retail store or through our general
catalog.
Another option . . . buy a Carrying Case . . . then
your Kenmore goes anywhere, can be stored any
where.
Locate and Identify the Parts
Take-up Lever
Upper Thread Guide
Thread Spool Pins
Page 6
SECTION 1. KNOW THE MACHINE
Arm Cover Plate
Identify the Accessories
Carrying Handle
Bobbin
Needle set
Sliding
buttonhole foot
Zipper foot
Straight
stitch foot
Buttonhole opener
Large screw driver
Small screw driver
Satin stitch
foot
Page 7
Set Up the Machine
• Plug in the Machine and Switch on the Power
machine, be sure the power switch is
OFF.
1. Check your outlet to be sure it is a 110 to 120
Volt AC outlet,
2. Insert the machine plug into the three-prong
plug connector, as shown. It will only fit one
way.
3. Insert the power supply plug into the outlet.
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
SAFETY FEATURE:
Your machine will not operate unless the
light/power switch is turned on. If you are
interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the
light/power switch to prevent injury to
children.
® Foot Control Use
which you sew.
To increase speed, gently press down with
the ball of your foot.
To decrease speed, release your foot pres
sure slightly.
NOTE: The foot control is sensitive and
will increase or decrease your
sewing speed immediately.
Practice on a scrap of fabric to
regulate your sewing speed to
your taste and needs.
Page 8
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
» Setting Spool Pin
The spool pins
spools of thread
machine.
To use, pull up the spool pins. Push down
for storage.
NOTE: Model 11607 has one spool pin.
are used for holding the
when feeding thread to the
» Adjust the Presser Foot Lever
The Presser Foot Lever raises and lowers your
presser foot.
You can raise it about 1 /4" higher than the normal
up position for easy removal of the presser foot or
to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser
foot.
• Thread Cutter
You don't need a pair of scissors to cut the
thread after you finish sewing. Just use the
handy thread cutter.
Pull the threads to lengthen several inches
before starting the next seam.
Page 9
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
Set Up the Machine (Continued)
• Free-Arm Sewing: the Removable
Extension Table
(for free-arm sewing)
1. Grip the table with your index finger
and thumb, as shown.
2. Pull gently to the left. The extension
table will snap out.
To Attach the Extension Table
(for flat-bed sewing)
1. Insert the tab and the pin into their
catches.
2. With your thumb and index finger,
gently snap in.
• Accessory Storage Box
box lifts open toward you.
Sewing accessories are conveni
ently located in the box.
■ Change the Presser Foot
the stitch you wish to sew.
To change the various presser
feet, raise the presser bar to its
highest position by lifting the
presser foot lever.
Loosen the presser foot thumb
screw, choose the proper foot,
insert from the bottom.
Tighten the screw using the
large screw driver to make
certain the foot is secure.
Choose the Needle and Thread
• To Change the Needle
NOTE: Raise the needle bar to its highest
position by turning the hand wheel
toward you.
1. Loosen the needle clamp screw by
turning it toward you.
2. Remove the needle by pulling it down
ward.
3. Insert the new needle into the needle
clamp with the flat side away from you.
4. Push the needle up as far as it will go.
5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly
with the large screwdriver from the
accessory box.
Page 10
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
® Fabric, Needle, Thread and Stitch Length Chart
Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are
sewing.
In the needle envelope, you will find the following color-coded
needles:
Blue (11) .......................................for stretch fabrics.
Orange (11)...................................for lightweight fabrics.
Red (14)
........................................
for medium or medium-heavy
weight fabrics.
Purple (16)
....................................
for medium-heavy weight fabrics
and decorative topstitching on these
fabrics. (This needle has a larger
thread hole for thicker topstitching
thread.)
Green (18) ....................................for heavy weight fabrics and
decorative top-stitching on these
fabrics.
Replacement Kenmore needles are available at your nearest Sears
store.
FABRIC
Lightweight:
Batiste, Dimity, Chiffon,
Silks, Fine Lace, Organza,
Crepe, Taffeta, Voile,
Organdy
Medium Weight:
Cotton, Cotton Blend,
Percale, Gingham,
Shantung, Pique,
Seersucker, Satin, Knit,
Suitings, Linen,
Wool Crepe, Leather
Medium Heavy Weight:
Corduroy, Denim, Wool,
Sailcloth, Wool Flannel,
Gabardine, Velvet,
Leather
Heavy Weight:
Coating, Upholstery
Cotton Duck, Heavy
Twills, Canvas
Decorative top-stitching
on all types of fabric
Stretch Fabric:
Polyester Double Knit,
Nylon Tricot, Jersey,
Stretch Terry, Spandex,
Ciré Tricot
NEEDLE
SIZE AND
COLOR
11-ORANGE
14-RED
14-RED
or
16-PURPLE
18-GREEN
16-PURPLE
18-GREEN
11-BLUE
(STRETCH
FABRIC
NEEDLE)
THREAD SIZE
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Fine Mercerized Cotton
Silk A
50 Mercerized Cotton
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
50 Mercerized Cotton
Mercerized Heavy-Duty
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
Heavy Duty Mercerized
Cotton
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
Silk A
Buttonhole Twist
(Use as top thread only)
Polyester Core/Cotton
Wrap
50 Mercerized Cotton
RECOMMENDED
STITCH LENGTH
SETTING
2
(12 stitches per
inch)
2-2.5
(10-12 stitches
per inch)
2-3
(8-10 stitches
per inch)
3
(8 stitches per
inch)
3-4
(6-8 stitches
per inch)
2-2.5
(10-12 stitches
per inch)
• Check the Needle
1. Look for barbed or blunt point.
2. A damaged needle can cause permanent snags or runs in
knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics.
Always buy a good quality thread. It should resist tangling and
be strong, smooth and consistent in thickness.
8
Page 11
Prepare the Bobbin
• To Remove the Bobbin Case from the Machine
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
Wind the Bobbin
the machine by pulling it to the
left. Open the shuttle cover by
pulling down the embossed part on
the left side of the cover.
Raise needle to its highest position
by rotating hand wheel toward you.
tie, pull open latch of bobbin case.
Pull bobbin case straight out of
shuttle.
moving
bobbin.
NOTE: The bobbin winder stopper can be adjusted for the amount of thread needed
on the bobbin (example 1/ 2 full or full etc.). To make the adjustment use
your large screw driver and loosen the screw one turn or less. This will allow
you to adjust the position of bobbin winder stopper. Do not take screw all
the wayout.
while you wind the
Page 12
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
• Wind the Bobbin (Continued)
bobbin winding tension disc as shown. bobbin as shown.
Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case
r
Place bobbin in bobbin case
making sure thread feeds clock
wise and is coming from
bobbin as shown.
Pull thread through slot of case
as shown.
10
spindle with end of thread coming
from the top of the bobbin. Push
bobbin winding spindle to the right
until it clicks. Holding onto end of
thread, start machine. When bobbin is
slightly filled, snip off end of thread.
Pull thread under tension
spring and through the opening
as shown above. Pull 3 to 4
inches of thread from bobbin.
Push bobbin winding spindle to the
left and clip thread. Remove bobbin.
Turn clutch knob away from you
while holding hand wheel for normal
sewing operation.
Holding latch open, position
case into shuttle and release
latch.
Case should lock into place
when latch is released.
Page 13
Prepare the Top Thread
• Thread the Needle
The numbered steps above follow the numbers
on the illustrations.
Dotted lines show places where the thread
loops and then is pulled tight.
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
2. While holding thread near spool, draw thread down into the tension area and then around the
check spring holder.
3. Firmly draw thread up and through take-up lever from right to left.
4. Draw thread down and slip it into left side needle bar thread guide.
5. Thread needle from front to back.
NOTE: You may want to cut the end of thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading.
11
Page 14
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
• Pick Up the Bobbin Thread
handwheel toward you one complete
turn.
If you cannot pick up bobbin thread by following steps given above, then check;
1. Is needle threaded from front to back?
2. Is thread tangled around needle?
3. Are 3 to 4 inches of thread coming from the shuttle?
4. Is thread from shuttle tangled?
5. Is bobbin properly installed in the bobbin case?
6. Is the machine threaded according to the instructions?
back of the presser foot, leaving 4
to 6 inches of thread clear.
12
Page 15
Adjust the Top Thread Tension
For Straight Stitch
The ideal straight stitch will have threads locked between the two layers of
fabric, as shown above, magnified to show detail.
If you look at the stitch, front and back, you will notice that there are no
gaps, that each stitch is smooth and even.
When adjusting top thread tension, the higher the number, the tighter the top
thread.
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
Choose the Correct Tension:
The best tension will depend on;
---------------
---------------
---------------
the stiffness and thickness of the fabric
the number of fabric layers
the type of stitch
The top thread shows through the The bobbin thread will come through
bottom of the fabric. The bottom side the top of the fabric. The top side of
of the stitch will feel bumpy. the stitch will feel bumpy.
13
Page 16
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
For Zigzag Stitch
In a correct zigzag stitch, the bobbin threads will not show on the top side
of fabric and the top threads will show slightly on the bottom side. See
below for the correct appearance. To match this appearance, adjust the top
tension.
Reverse Stitch Control
Top tension
Too Tight
Bottom side of Fabric
Too Tight:
-----
Corner of each
zigzag will pull
together on the
top side of fabrics.
Top tension
Too Loose
Bottom side of Fabric
Too Loose:
-----
The top thread
will loop through
bottom side of
fabric and will be
pulled almost
together.
Just Right
Bottom side of Fabric
Just Right:
Minimize the amount
of top thread visible on
the bottom side of
fabric without causing
excessive puckering or
causing the bobbin
thread to show on the
top side. Results vary
with fabric, thread and
sewing conditions.
Release to sew forward again.
14
Page 17
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
Stitch Selector
The stitch selector control not only determines the stitch you select, but also regulates the stitch width for
regular zigzag.
The different types of stitches are designated by color.
Straight, Zigzag and Utility Stitches are red.
Stretch Stitches are brown. (Model 12614 only)
Buttonhole Settings are blue.
NOTE: To avoid needle or fabric damage, be sure your needle is up and out of fabric when adjusting this control.
15
Page 18
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
Stitch Length Control
The higher the number, the longer the stich.
"0" means no feed.
Depending upon your fabric or your own preference in buttonholes, you may alter the
buttonhole stitch density within the blue buttonhole range on the stitch length control.
Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance (Model 12614 only)
position.
In stretch stitch sewing. Stitch Length Control should
be in the detent position between Sand L ('^position)
for most materials. Depending upon the type of fabric
used, you may need to adjust this control to match
forward stitches of stretch sewing with reverse motion
stitches.
To shorten stretch stitches, turn the control slightly
toward "S". To lengthen, turn toward "L".
16
Page 19
SECTION 2. PREPARE THE MACHINE FOR SEWING
Starting To Sew
Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new
Kenmore sewing machine. Below are some good habits to follow each time you sit down to sew:
1. Inspect the needle. It should be straight, properly set and sharp on the point. It should be the correct size for the fabric and thread being used. Do not be
afraid to change your needle frequently. Many of the new fabrics made of synthetic blends tend to dull the needles more easily than fabrics made of natural
fibers.
2. Before placing the material on the machine, see that the ends of the threads have been drawn about 4 inches to the rear of the machine. Hold on to threads
during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches of the seam.
3. Test the machine stitch on a scrap of the fabric you plan to use. The fabric should be double thickness. Adjust the machine for the length of stitch and
tension suitable to the fabric.
4. Fabric should be placed under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and the right edge of the material placed on the 5/8"
seam marking on the needle plate when making a simple seam.
5. Run the machine at a slow even speed. The more pressure you put on the foot control, the faster the machine will sew.
6. Fasten each seam by back tacking sewing a few stitches in reverse.
7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point.
8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle. Never pull or hold the fabric in such a way that the normal feeding is altered.
9. When turning the hand wheel manually, always turn it toward you.
17
Page 20
SECTIONS. LEARN THE STITCHES
Straight Stitches
• Straight Stitch
Set the Machine
• Use the Seam Guides
Stitch
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
TU
0
Straight foot Zigzag foot
18
Stitch selector
{Model 126U)
_
__
i_
(Model 11607)
Stitch length
control red
zone
-3-
1. Raise the presser foot.
2. Raise the needle to its highest
position.
3. Place the edge of the fabric next
to a stitching guide line on the
needle plate (5/8" is most
common).
4. Draw the threads towards the
back and lower the presser foot.
5. Press the foot control.
6. Hold the fabric loosely and gently
guide it along the guide line, so
that it feeds naturally.
Do not force the fabric or try to
pull it tight.
7. At the end of the seam, you may
want to reverse to lock the stitch.
8. Raise the presser foot and remove
the fabric.
9. Cut the threads.
The seam guides on the needle plate
are there to help you measure seam
width. The lines are 1/8" apart, with
the 5/8" and 7/8" lines marked.
• Turn a Square Corner
fabric edge:
Stop stitching and lower the
1.
needle by turning hand wheel
toward you when the fabric edge
facing you lines up with the
cornering guide, as shown.
Raise the presser foot and turn
2.
the fabric to line the edge with
the 5/8" seam guide.
Lower the presser foot and begin
3.
stitching in the new direction.
Page 21
• Topstitching
Set the Machine
Stitch Stitch selector
Top thread tension
control 2 to 6
Straight foot
I
(Model 126U)
(Model 11607)
Stitch length
control red
zone
'3-
Zigzag foot
Here's How
1. Lower the presser foot.
2. Keep the edge of the fabric next
to the right edge of the presser
foot.
3. Evenly guide the fabric along this
edge to produce an even row of
topstitching 3/8" from the edge.
e
Left Needle Position
Stitch selector
(Model 12614)
(Model 11607)
CIO
Hi
cilo
_E_
CpG
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES
The Stitch and Its Uses
Topstitching emphasizes the lines of
your garment and keeps seams and
edges flat and crisp.
Accent suits or blouses with one or
two rows of topstitching around the
outer edges of cuffs, lapels or collars.
Use Left Needle Position for more
control while topstitching or edge
stitching difficult fabrics.
NOTE: Use only zigzag presser
foot for Left Needle
Sewing.
19
Page 22
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES
• Sew in a Zipper
Fabric Preparation:
Put the right sides of the fabric to
gether and sew to the end of the zip
per opening. Use the reverse to lock
the stitches.
Sew the zipper opening with stitch
length at "4" and top thread tension
at “3".
End of opening
Right side
of fabric
Top edge of fabric
Set the Machine
Stitch
Top thread tension
control 3 to 6
mu
E
Zipper foot
Stitch selector
I
Ci3
r!|3
(Model 12614)
_i_
(Model 11607)
Stitch length
control 2
(1/8")
Fold back the left seam allowance
as shown.
2. Turn under the right seam allow
ance to form a 1/8" fold.
3. Place the zipper teeth next to the
1/8" fold and pin in place.
4. To sew the left side of the zipper,
set the zipper foot on the left side
of the needle.
5. Lower the zipper foot on the right
side at the bottom of the zipper
so that the needle pierces the fold
and the zipper tape.
6. Sew through the fold and the zip
per tape to the point where the
slider begins.
7. Lower the needle to hold the fab
ric and raise the presser foot.
20
Page 23
SECTIONS. LEARN THE STITCHES
Lower the presser foot and stitch
the rest of the seam.
INVISIBLE ZIPPER AND CORDING
S..
fabric right side up.
INVISIBLE ZIPPER
Adjust the foot so the needle is sewing through
the center hole of the foot and one groove of
the foot is riding on the teeth of the zipper as
shown. Follow the zipper manufacturer's inst
ructions. After zipper has been inserted, finish
sewing seam by shifting foot to side position
sewing through side notch.
CORDING
Foot can also be used to make cording for slip
covers etc. Cover a cord with a strip of bias
fabric and sew as shown.
NOTE:
Use "Low Bar Sewing Machine ZIPPER FOOT"
(6757) for "invisible zipper" and "cording",
which can be obtained at any Sears retail store.
per, set the zipper foot on the
right side of the needle.
12. Stitch across and below the bot
tom of the zipper.
13. Turn the corner and continue to
guide the foot along the zipper
teeth, as shown.
Stitch through the fabric and
zipper tape.
J
zipper.
15. Lower the needle into the fabric
and raise the presser foot.
16. Remove the basting stitches and
open the zipper.
17. Lower the foot and stitch the rest
of the seam. Make sure the fold is
even.
21
Page 24
SECTIONS. LEARN THE STITCHES
• Use the Darning Plate
Sometimes when you sew, you want
to control the fabric youself.
The Darning Plate covers the feed dogs
so that they do not touch the fabric.
To Put on the Darning Plate:
NOTE: The rectangular holes in the
Darning Plate match the
holes in the needle plate. In
the darning plate, these
holes are slightly to the left
of center.
Position the darning plate with
1.
the 3 pins on the bottom.
Fit the darning plate pins into the
2.
needle plate holes. The feed dogs
will show through the darning
plate holes.
Use the darning plate in the following
ways: Darning (P. 22)
Button Sewing (P. 26)
Darning
Set the Machine
Stitch Stitch selector
(Model 12614)
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
(Model 11607)
Stitch length
control any number
(not necessary to
adjust)
No presser
foot
Darning plate
___
‘I’
c'S?
-3-
II
L
Here's How
I
1. Put the darning plate on the needle plate
(see p. 22).
2. Remove presser foot and stretch fabric
between embroidery hoops with hole
centered.
3. Draw the bobbin thread up through the
fabric by holding the top thread and taking
one stitch at the spot where you wish to
start darning.
4. Lower the presser bar and sew at a slow
speed.
5. Move the fabric back and forth slowly until
you have covered the darning area.
6. Turn the fabric a half turn and sew another
layer of stitching over the first layer.
NOTE: If your fabric is thin or badly
damaged, use a separate piece of fabric
under the hole to reinforce it.
22
7. When you finish darning, remove the darning
plate.
Page 25
Zigzag Stitches
• Basic Zigzag
The zigzag stitch is one of the most
common and most versatile stitches on
your machine. It can be a utility stitch
for sewing buttons, buttonholes, hem
ming, overcasting, mending and darn
ing. It can also be used to decorate
with trims, appliques and cut-out work
or as a decorative stitch.
SECTIONS. LEARN THE STITCHES
Here's How
There are many ways to sew a zigzag stitch.
Consult the specific variations for detailed directions.
Satin Stitch p. 24
Applique Work p. 25
Bar Tacking p. 25
Button Sewing p. 26
Overcasting p. T]^
Three-step zigzag p. 28
Rick-rack stretch p. ^
Overcast stretch p. 32
Serging p. 33
23
Page 26
SECTIONS. LEARN THE STITCHES
• Satin Stitch
The Satin stitch is a versatile and often
used decorative stitch, but it can also
be used to overcast a raw edge (for ex
ample, blankets, linens, tablecloths
and napkins).
The Satin stitch is especially attractive
in applique.
Close to 0
Stitch
length:
Here's How
Once your machine is set up to stitch, you may want to experiment on a scrap of
the fabric you are planning to use. Too tight a satin stitch may pucker some light
weight fabrics.
Zigzag width :
24
Page 27
Zigzag Stitches (Continued)
• Applique
Set the Machine
Stitch Stitch selector
(Model 12614)
,
___
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
(Model 11607)
Stitch length
control 0.5 to 1
Zigzag foot
: IIIHi
i_
: Hill,
Baste (or fuse with iron-on fabric
joiner) applique pieces on the fabric.
Stitch around the applique making
sure the needle falls along the outer
edge of the applique.
When sewing corners, lower the needle
down into the fabric. Raise the presser
foot and pivot the fabric to the right
or left.
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES
• Bar Tacking
This stitch is similar to a very short
satin stitch and is used to reinforce
points of strain such as corners or
pockets and straps on lingerie.
Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.
25
Page 28
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES
• Sew a Button
Set the Machine
Stitch
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
Zigzag foot
Stitch selector
iimtiiii
(Model 12614)
J_
Diluii«
(Model 11607)
Stitch length control
any number (not
necessary to adjust)
-3-
Darning plate
Use the darning plate for button sewing (see p. 22).
1.
Set the stitch selector at " ci3
2.
Align both holes of the button with the slot of the foot and place the left
hole of the button just below the needle point.
Lower the foot and turn the stitch selector to zigzag until the needle point
comes just above the right hole of the button.
4.
Sew about five stitches and raise needle.
5.
Set the stitch selector at " c'o ” again and sew a few stitches to lock thread.
To strengthen the shank, cut the
threads leaving a 20 cm (8") tail. Bring
the needle thread down through the
hole in the button and wind it around
the shank.
Draw the thread to the bottom side
and knot.
26
Page 29
Zigzag Stitches (Continued)
» Overcasting Stitch
SECTIONS. LEARN THE STITCHES
This zigzag variation is very useful in
garment construction and in finishing
raw edges of any sewing project.
27
Page 30
SECTIONS. LEARN THE STITCHES
Zigzag Stitches (Continued)
e Three-Step Zigzag
Set the Machine
Stitch Stitch selector
(Model 12614)
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
(Model 11607)
Stitch length
control 0.5 to 1
Zigzag foot
r
* Lace Work
Seam Finishing
Place the fabric under the presser foot
so that the edge will be slightly inside
the right hand side of the presser foot.
Guide the work so the right hand
stitches fall at the edge of the fabric.
The Stitch and Its Uses
The three-step zigzag is a combination
zigzag and straight stitch. You may use
the three-step zigzag everywhere you
would use the basic zigzag stitch. It
has more strength, elasticity, and is
flatter than a regular zigzag.
The three-step zigzag stitch is especial
ly useful for:
— mending
— sewing patches smoothly and
securely.
— repairing straight tears.
— finishing seams.
28
Turn raw edge of fabric under at least
1/2". Place lace underneath and topstitch using stretch blind hem stitch.
Trim excess fabric close to stitching.
Mending
Position the tear under the needle so
that the stitching will catch both sides.
Page 31
s
Blind Hemming
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES
29
Page 32
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES
Shell Stitching
Set the Machine
Stitch
Top thread tension
control 3 to 9
mi
Stitch selector
_JL_
(Model 12614)
(Model 11607)
Stitch length
control 1 to 2
HI
Zigzag foot
The Stitch and Its Uses
The Shell Stitch is fornned by sewing a
blind hem over folded fabric. Several
rows of shell stitching are called shell
tucks.
Shell stitching can be used to finish
hems, sleeve and neck openings.
Shell tucking can be used to create
scalloped tucks on blouses and
lingerie.
Box Stitching
Here's How
1. For best effect:
— set the stitch length as you
desire.
— you may need to tighten the
top thread tension slightly.
— allow the needle to just
clear the folded edge of the
fabric when it zigzags.
2. If you sew rows of shell stitches,
space the rows 1/2" apart.
You can sew Shell Stitch on knits or
soft silky wovens in any direction.
30
Page 33
Stretch Stitches (Model 12614 only)
® Straight Stretch (Model 12614 only)
SECTIONS. LEARN THE STITCHES
Rick-Rack Stretch (Model 12614 only)
This stitch is the stretch variation of
the straight stitch, especially develop
ed for knits and stretch fabrics.
Stretch stitch can be used on other
fabrics as well. It works well on
curved seams and on any garments
that will receive a great deal of strain
(ie. children's clothes).
(sometimes called a "reverse
action" stitch), so that it will
give when the fabric stretches
instead of breaking. This stitch
can also be used for topstitching
on all fabrics.
31
Page 34
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES
• Smocking (Model 12614 only)
across the area to be smocked.
Knot the threads along one edge. Pull
the bobbin threads and distribute the
gathers evenly. Secure the threads at
the other end. Sew the decorative
stitch between the gathering stitches.
Pull out the gathering stitches.
NOTE: Loosen the top thread
tension to make gathering
easier.
Overcast Stretch Stitching (Model 12614 only)
Set the Machine
Stitch Stitch selector
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
Stitch length
control brown
stretch stitch
position
1_I
Zigzag foot
The Stitch and Its Uses
This stitch can be used for sewing a
seam with an overcast finish.
The seam is formed and finished in
one operation. It can be used when
you are making swimwear, ski pants
and other garments that require
stretch.
Here's How
Place the raw edge of the fabric to
the LEFT of the needle as shown.
Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric
just short of the outside edge.
Or, place your fabric to allow a 5/8"
seam, then trim seam allowance
after.
Raw or worn edges of older garments
can be overcast to prevent further
raveling.
NOTE: Use a blue stretch fabric
needle, which effectively
prevents skipped stitches.
32
Page 35
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES
® Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching (Model 12614 only)
Set the Machine
Stitch
Top thread tension
control 1 to 4
- 2
Zigzag foot
The Stitch and Its Uses
Use this stitch when you want a
narrow seam that you do not need to
press Ofjen flat. It is ideal for 1/4"
seams on knits or on medium to
heavyweight woven fabrics where you
want a narrow seam. It is also great
for making elastic swim wear.
Stitch selector
Stitch length
control brown
stretch stitch
position
. f.
Here's How
Place the fabric under the presser
foot so that the stitches are made
over the edge.
Or, place your fabric to allow a 5/8"
seam, then trim seam allowance
after.
NOTE: When using stretch knit
fabric, use a blue stretch
fabric needle which
effectively prevents
skipped stitches.
» Elastic Stretch Stitch (Model 12614 only)
garments.
1. Mark the elastic into quarters and
match these to the center front,
center back and side seams.
2. Place the middle of the elastic
under the center of the presser
foot and stitch into place, making
sure the fabric is evenly distri
buted.
33
Page 36
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES
Buttonholes
Set the Machine
Stitch
Stitch selector
D
Top thread tension
control 1 to 5
B
Stitch length control
blue zone i=a
m
Sliding buttonhole foot
Adjusting the Stitch Density
Depending upon your fabric or your
own preference in buttonholes, you
may alter the buttonhole stitch
density within the blue buttonhole
range on the stitch length dial.
® For more density, turn the dial
toward "0".
(2) For less density, turn the dial
toward "1".
NOTE: Always make a practice but
tonhole on a scrap of fabric
you plan to use to find the
34
more suitable stitch length.
a. Carefully mark the buttonhole
length on your garment.
b. Change to the sliding buttonhole
foot.
c. Insert the garment under the
foot with the buttonhole mark
ing running toward you.
Coarse
stitches
for heavy
fabrics
2. a. Move the slider (A) toward you
so that the top mark (C) on the
slider meets the start mark (B).
b. Line up the markings on the
foot with the top mark on your
garment.
c. Lower the presser foot.
NOTE: The markings on the slider
are engraved in centimeters.
front marking of your button
hole.
c. Stop sewing at the left stitch.
Page 37
SECTION 3. LEARN THE STITCHES
c. Stop sewing at the right stitch.
NOTE:
When sewing at the edge of fabric, set
sliding buttonhole foot as illustrated
and sew in reverse
marking of the buttonhole,
c. Stop sewing at the right stitch.
c. Stop sewing at the left stitch.
35
Page 38
SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART
What to Do When
PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE
Skipping Stitches
Breaking Upper Thread
Breaking Bobbin Thread
Fabric not Moving
Machine Jamming Knocking Noise
Incorrect size needle.
Bent or blunt needle.
Incorrect setting of needle.
Tight upper thread tension.
Starting to stitch too fast.
Improper threading.
Tight upper thread tension.
Incorrect size needle.
Sharp eye in needle.
Nicks or burrs on shuttle.
Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate.
Improper bobbin case threading.
Lint in bobbin case or shuttle.
Darning plate in place.
Stitch Length set at 0.
Thread knotted under fabric.
Thread caught in shuttle.
Lint in bobbin case or shuttle.
CORRECTION
Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Insert new needle.
Reset needle.
Loosen upper thread tension.
Start to stitch at a medium speed.
Rethread machine.
Loosen upper thread tension.
Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Insert new needle.
Replace shuttle, or polish off burrs completely.
Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.
Check bobbin case threading.
Clean bobbin case and shuttle.
Remove darning plate.
Adjust Stitch Length Control.
Place both threads back under presser foot before beginning
to stitch.
Disassemble and clean shuttle.
Clean bobbin case and shuttle.
36
Page 39
What to Do When (Continued)
SECTION 4. PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS CHART
Irregular Stitches
Breaking Needle
Bunching of Thread
Puckering
PROBLEM
PROBABLE CAUSE
Incorrect size needle.
Improper threading.
Loose upper thread tension.
Pulling fabric.
Loose presser foot.
Unevenly wound bobbin,
Nicks or burrs at hole of needle plate.
Pulling fabric.
Incorrect size needle.
Incorrect setting of needle.
Loose presser foot.
Upper and lower threads not drawn back
under presser foot before starting seam.
Incorrect thread tension(s).
Using two different sizes or kinds of thread.
Bent or blunt needle.
Loose presser foot.
Fabric very sheer or very soft.
CORRECTION
Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Rethread machine.
Tighten upper thread tension.
Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
Reset presser foot.
Rewind bobbin.
Replace needle plate, or polish off burrs completely.
Do not pull fabric; guide it gently.
Choose correct size needle for thread and fabric.
Reset needle.
Reset presser foot.
When starting a seam be sure to draw both threads under and
back of presser foot about 4" and hold until a few stitchs are
formed.
Reset thread tension(s).
Upper thread and bobbin thread should be same size and kind.
Insert new needle.
Reset presser foot.
Use underlay of tissue paper.
37
Page 40
SECTION 5. CARE FOR THE MACHINE
Replacing the Light Bulb
1. Unplug the machine and open the
face cover.
CAUTION! The light bulb could be
HOT. Protect your
fingers when you handle
it.
2. Push the bulb up and turn the
bulb counter-clockwise to remove
it.
3. Put the new bulb in by pushing it
up and turning it clockwise.
Cleaning the Machine
To insure that your machine operates at its best, you need to keep the essential parts clean at all times.
The feed dogs and shuttle race areas can attract dust and lint. Your machine can become sluggish or knock loudly if a thread
is caught.
Check and clean those areas about every three months under normal use.
If you sew frequently, clean more often.
Clean the Feed Dogs
1. Unplug the machine,
presser foot and needle.
Using a screw driver,
needle plate.
Remove 2.
remove
Use a lint brush to clean the feed
dogs.
3. Replace needle plate.
38
Page 41
• Clean the Shuttle Race
This area must be kept free of dust, lint and occasional tangled thread. Clean the shuttle race area
about every three months.
SECTIONS. CARE FOR THE MACHINE
1. Raise the needle bar to its highest
point and remove the bobbin case.
2. Push shuttle race levers aside. Lift
shuttle race cover and take shuttle out.
3. Clean the shuttle race with a lint
brush.
4. Put a drop of oil on the center pin of
the shuttle and shuttle race. Do not
over-oil.
1. Position shuttle race as illustrated so that shuttle
driver is forming half moon on the left side of the
machine.
2. Hold shuttle by center pin and position shuttle so as
to form a half moon on the right side. Pointed hook
will be on the bottom.
3. Place shuttle race cover into place over shuttle
assembly.
4. Snap the levers back into the original position.
39
Page 42
SECTION 5. CARE FOR THE MACHINE
Oiling the Machine
Oil the machine in all areas shown on this page at least once a year; otherwise the machine can become sluggish or will knock loudly. If you use the machine
frequently, oil the machine under the top cover about every three months. In case machine is not used for an extended time, oil it before sewing. Use good quality
sewing machine oil. One or two drops of oil is sufficient. Remove excess oil, otherwise it may stain fabric.
Kenmore sewing machine oil is available at your nearest Sears retail store.
NOTE: Unplug the machine before oiling. Remove needle and put needle bar in full down position,
e Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and under the Arm Cover Plate • Oil the Underside
Open face cover plate and/or remove arm cover plate by loosening top screw to oil points
in illustration.
Use only a drop of oil; do not over-oil.
40
Open the shuttle cover by pulling down the embossed part on
the left side of the cover. Tilt the machine head back and
remove bottom cover. Oil points in illustration.
Page 43
PARTS LIST
All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears store or service center.
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING
INFORMATION:
1. PART NUMBER
3. MODEL NUMBER
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically
transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center for expedited handling.
2. PART DESCRIPTION
4. NAME OF ITEM
Ref. No.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
Part No.
532096007
647515006
*102869004
647018004
813404013
647814020
647814031
647814042
647814053
801506008
648801108
650802014
735503018
647807008
593401008
*941800000
647112009
Shuttle
Bobbin case
10 bobbins
Bobbin winder rubber ring
No. 11 Stretch fabric needles (BLU)
No. 11 Single needles (ORG)
No. 14 Single needles (RED)
No. 16 Single needles (PUR)
No. 18 Single needles (GRN)
Needle clamp with screw
Sliding buttonhole foot
Straight stitch foot ,
Standard zigzag foot
Satin stitch foot
Zipper foot
Concealed zipper foot
Thumb screw
*784805004
000009803
647808009
802424004
820832005
647803004
*131402005 Oil
735801008
*200012104
*214872000
*941450000
*941460000
*941620000
Needle threader
Light bulb
Buttonhole opener
Lint brush
Large screw driver
Small screw driver
Darning plate
Hemmer foot
Walking foot
Pin-tuck foot
Gathering foot
Ruffler
Description
* These items are not furnished with the machine, but may be ordered per
instructions above.
41
Page 44
A
Accessory storage box.........................................................3, 7
Adjusting stretch stitch balance
Applique.................................................................................. 25
Arm cover plate
B
Bar tacking
Basic zigzag........................................................................... 23
Blind hemming
Bobbin...............................................................4, 9~10, 41
Bobbin case................................................... 9~10, 39, 41
Bobbin thread....................................................................12~13
Bobbin winding................................................................... 9~10
Bobbin winding tension disc
Bobbin winding spindle
Box stitching........................................................................... 30
Buttonhole.........................................................................34~35
Buttonhole opener..........................................................4,35,41
Button sewing......................................................................... 26
C
Cabinet......................................................................................3
Carrying handle.........................................................................4
Changing needle...................................................................... 7
Changing presser foot ............................................................. 7
Cleaning feed dogs and shuttle race . . . . 38~39
Clutch knob
Cording ................................................................................. 21
Cornering guide...................................................................... 18
D
Darning .................................................................................. 22
Darning plate
E
Elastic stretch stitch
Extension table ...................................................................3, 7
F
Fabric, needle, thread and stitch
length chart............................................................................... 8
42
...................................................................
.............................................................................
.......................................................................
......................................................................
....................................................
...............................................................
.............................................
...............................................
.......................................................
4, 22, 26, 41
4, 40
3, 10
3, 10
4,9,10
33
16
25
29
INDEX
Face cover plate...............................................................3, 40
Feed dogs............................................................................... 38
Foot control
Free arm sewing....................................................................... 7
H
Hand wheel
Invisible zipper....................................................................... 21
L
Lace work............................................................................... 28
Large screw driver
Light and power switch
Light bulb.................................................................5, 38, 41
Lint brush.................................................................4, 38, 41
N
Needle..................................................................4, 7~8, 41
Needle clamp screw...................................................4, 7, 41
Needle plate .....................................................................3, 38
Needle, thread and fabric chart.................................................8
..........................................................................
........................................................................
.............................................................
.........................................................
4~5
4, 17
4, 41
4~5
O
Oiling....................................................................................... 40
Overcasting stitch................................................................... 27
Overcast stretch stitching....................................................... 32
P
Parts list
.................................................................................
Performance problems chart.............................................36~37
Pine leaf stretch stitching
Plug connector.......................................................................4~5
Portable case.............................................................................3
Power switch............................................................................. 5
Presser foot
Presser foot lever
R
Replacing bobbin case....................................................... 9~10
Reverse stitch control
Rick rack stretch ................................................................... 31
...............................................................................
.......................................................
..................................................................
........................................................
41
33
4,6
3, 14
S
Satin stitch foot........................................................4, 24, 41
Satin stitch
Seam guides........................................................................... 18
Serging.................................................................................... 33
Sewing light
Shell stitching ......................................................................... 30
Shuttle................................................................................39,41
Shuttle cover.........................................................................3, 9
Shuttle race............................................................................. 39
Sliding buttonhole foot
Small screw driver
Smocking.............................................................................. 32
Spool pin ..............................................................................3, 6
Stitch length control
Stitch selector....................................................................3,15
Straight stitch
Straight stitch foot
Straight stretch ...................................................................... 31
..............................................................................
..............................................................................
...................................
...............................................................
..........................................................
................................................................
..........................................
4, 34~35,41
3, 16
18~22
4, 18~19, 31
24
5
4,41
T
Thread cutter
Thread guide............................................................................. 3
Thread take-up lever.........................................................3, 11
Thread tensions.................................................................13~14
Three-step zigzag .................................................................. 28
Topstitching
Top thread
Top thread tension
Top thread tension control.........................................................3
Turn a square corner.............................................................. 18
Z
Zigzag foot...................................18~19, 23, 25~33, 41
Zigzag stitches...................................................................23~30
Zipper application
Zipper foot.................................................................4,20~21,41
4
..........................................................................
...........................................................................
........................................................................
............................................................
............................................................
3,6
19
11~14
13~14
20~21
Page 45
\
WARRANTY
\
\
{
V
\
\
\
\
\
\
\
\
\
\
\
\
FULL 25-YEAR WARRANTY ON SEWING MACHINE HEAD
For 25 years from the date of purchase, Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which appear
in the mechanical components of the sewing machine head.
FULL TWO YEAR WARRANTY ON ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT OF SEWING MACHINE
For two years from the date of purchase. Sears will, free of charge, repair defects in material or workmanship which
appear in the electrical equipment of the sewing machine, including electronic components, motor, wiring, switch and
speed control.
FULL 90-DAY WARRANTY ON ALL PARTS AND MECHANICAL ADJUSTMENTS
For 90 days from the date of purchase. Sears will, free of charge, replace any parts and provide mechanical service
necessary for proper operation of the sewing machine, except for normal maintenance.
WARRANTY SERVICE IS AVAILABLE BY RETURNING THE SEWING MACHINE TO THE NEAREST SEARS SERVICE
CENTER/DEPARTMENT IN THE UNITED STATES.
This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and you may also have other rights which vary from state to state.
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Dept. 731 CR-W, Sears Tower, Chicago, IL 60684
L.
'"Ih 'III' 'III' '
'III- Mil 'Mil'
Page 46
SEWING MACHINE
Now that you have purchased your Kenmore Sewing Machine, should a need ever exist for repair parts
or service, simply contact your nearest Sears Service Center. Be sure to provide all pertinent facts when
you call or visit.
The model number of your Sewing Machine will be shown on your nomenclature plate on the back of
your Sewing Machine. See page 4 for location.
WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION:
*PART NUMBER *PART DESCR IPTION *MODEL NUMBER *NAME OF ITEM
If the parts you need are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears
Repair Parts Distribution Center for handling.
SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL60684 U.S.A.
S-385
Printed in Taiwan
Part No. 735800627(74)
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