55039
I N.S T R U C T ! O N S
MODEL 68/95/96/1600/1650/1651/1652/1654/1750
ZlG-ZAG SEWING MACHINE
P/N 55039
TABLE OF
CONTENTS
Adjusting for Good Stitches ..................... 38
Adjusting Pressure of Presser Foot ............. 10
Adjusting Tensions ........................... t2 _13
Applique .............................................. 26
Basting ................................................ 11
Biind Stitching ...................................... t9
Buttonholes .................................... 20 - 25
Changing the Presser Foot ....................... 15
Cleaning and Oiling ........................... 31 - 33
Connecting Machine ............................... 4
Darning ............................................... 18
Decorative Stitching ............................... 17
Double Needle ................................. 28 - 29
Fastening a Seam .................................. 15
Feed Dog Control ................................... !5
Identification- Head Parts ...................... 2 - 3
Inserting Bobbin into Bobbin Case ............. 8
inserting Pattern Disc .............................. 16
Inserting and Removing Material ................ 14
Installing Machine Head .......................... 4
Needle and Thread Table ......... '................ 5
Needle Size .......................................... 5
Overcasting ................... '....................... 27
Parts List ........................................ 36 - 37
Picking Lp Bobbin Thread ........................ 10
Placement of Needle ............................... 5
Removing Bobbin Case from Shuttle .......... 6
Reverse Stitching ................................... 11
Replacement of Belt ............................... 31
Setting Stitch Length ............................. 11
Setting Stitch Width ............................... 16
Sewing Light ......................................... 4
Sewing on Buttons ................................. 19
Sewing on Lace ..................................... 26
Sewing on Plastic Films ........................... 30
Sewing on Stretch Fabrics ....................... 27
Sewing with Reverse Pattern Disc .............. 16
Straight or Three- Cornered Tear ............... 26
Synthetics ............................................ 30
Threading Upper Machine ........................ 9
Turning a Corner .................................... 15
What to Do ..................................... 34 - 35
Winding the Bobbin ................................ 7
Writing and Monogramming ............. ,....... 27
FRONT VIEW
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1. Hand Hole Cover Plate
2. Feed Dog
3, Presser Foot
4. Presser Foot Thumb Screw
5, Thread Guides
6. Thread Tension Assembly
7. Thread Guide
8. Face Cover Plate
9. Thread Take.up
10. Arm Cover Plate
11. Bobbin Winder Mechanism
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12. Stitch Width Control Knob
13. Stitch Length Control Lever
14. Light Switch
15. Fead Dog Control Knob
t6. Nomenclature Plate
BACK VIEW
¢
17. Ho_d Wheel
_,. Clutch Knob.
39 _u_tonhole R_verse Stitch
{.ength Control
20. Upper Thread Spool_ Pros
22. Bobbi_ W,_der Tension
_'3. Presser Fo_,_ Kr,_b
24. Upper Thread G_es
_5, Presser Foot L_v_r
26. Ne_dlQ Clornp Sc,ew
27. Threod Cutte_
28, Needle Plato
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INSTALLINGMACHINEHEADIN PORTABLE
ANDCABINET
Loosen the two hinge screws under holes in the rear
edge of the machine bed 11_. Raise hinge pins in the
cabinet cutout _2_. Sllp machine head onto the pins
and tighten hinge screws securely _3 .
Lower machine head to front flap.
Screw spool pins in place. Lay the plastic discs over
the spool pins. Discs and pins are packed in the
accessory box.
SEWINGLIGHT
The sewing light is located inside the face cover plate
as shown. It may be turned on or off by pushing
the light switch. In order to operate the machine
the switch must he on.
To remove bulb, turn light switch off, open the face
cover plate by swinging it open, push bulb in slightly,
turn bulb clockwise, and remove from socket. To
replace, push in new bulb and turn counter clockwise.
See illustration 4.
CONNECTINGMACHINE
Push the plug onto three-prong connector under the
bed plate. Plug machine cord into any 110-120V
wall outlet. See illustration 5.
NEEDLEANDTHREADTABLE
THREAD SIZE NEEDLE FABRIC
Cotton 60-100
Synthetic
Silk A
Cotton 60-80
Mercerized 50
Synthetic
Si_k A
Cotton 40.60
Mercerized 50 16
Mercerized heavy duty
Cotton 30-50
Mercerized heavy duty
SiZE
11
14
18
Sheer cottons, s_JkL and synthetics
i Fine laces
Medium weight cottons
Medium weight Silks
Medium weight synthetics
Light weight woolens
Heavy weight cottons
Medium :_o heavy weight woolens
Heavy drapery fabrics
Heaviest cottons as for men's work c|othes
Heaviest woolen coating
NEEDLESIZE
Use KENMORE 6021 needles. The size of the needle should
conform to the size of the thread and both should be suitable
to the material. The same size thread should be used in the
bobbin as on the upper part of the machine for ordinary
sewing. Never use a bent needle nor one with a blunt point.
This is the exact length of the needle to
I + II !
.+ _ ii
I ) I|/
be used in your machine. Comparison with
this illustration will determine whether the
needle you have is the correct one for
your mach_.
PLACEMENTOFNEEDLE
Raise needle bar to its highest po-
sition by turning hand wheel
toward you. Loosen needle clamp
screw+ Hold the needle with If|at
side away from you. Sllp the
needle as far as it will go into the
needle clamp, and tighten the
needle clamp screw.
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Needle at
its highest
position.
Pull bobbin case
straight out.
Pull
out
latch.
REMOVINGBOBBIN
CASEFROMSHUTTLE
WINDING THE BOBBIN
0
Place thread on spool /"-__ _ ..... .....
post. Draw thread as _/_11_-_:,--_
0
Wind thread around
bobbin a few times.
0
Place bobbin onto
bobbin winder shaft.
Push bobbin winder
latch until it clicks.
0
Release clutch by
turning clutch knob
toward you. Start
machine.
0
When bobbin is full,
winding mechanism
stops.
0
Tighten clutch knob
and remove bobbin.
,%,.
,_-, ki.:::
.......................ii!i:__6_..... _i¸i¸
INSERTINGBOBBININTOBOBBINCASE.........CASEINTOSHUTTLE
Guide bobbin onto center pin of bobbin case.
Pull thread through slot.
Pull thread under tension spring.
Holding [atch, position case into shuttle, release latch.
0
0
0
0
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THREADINGUPPERMACHINE
Place thread as illustrated between discs of
the Thread Tension Assembly. Prevent the
spool of thread from turning and by holding
the end ol the thread pull spring wire loop
up and pa_t the top hook until the thread
can be slipped nto the hook. When thread
tension is released, the spring wire loop will
return to pos_t_on as shown with the thread
in proper place. Release spool of thread and
continue to th'ead machine as illustrated.
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i YiL::)] ii_,__
PICKINGUPBOBBINTHREAD
Raise presser foot lever.
Hold needle thread loosely in left band and rotate
hand wheel toward you one complete turn.
Bring bobbin thread up by pulling upper thread.
See illustration.
Place threads back under presser foot.
ADJUSTINGTHEPRESSUREOFTHEPRESSERFOOT-
Push down outer ring of presser foot knob See
illustration). This will release pressure of presser
foot. To increase pressure, push down inner pin
until suitable pressure is obtained.
For ordinary sewing, the inner pin should be about
half way down. When sewing multiple thickness or
heavy material, reduce the pressure, increase it
when sewing sheer fabrics.
Insufficient pressure may cause skipped stitches or
difficulty in guiding the fabric, if feed dog or presser
foot marks appear on the fabric, reduce the pressure.
I0
SETTINGSTITCHLENGTH
The stitch length lever controls the stitch length. Set lever to any desired
stitch length position between 0 and 4 by turning knob until the indicator
is aligned with the stitch length number desired.
The red mark indicates the setting for a satin stitch. This will vary
slightly depending upon the type of material to be sewn. At No. 4 the
longest stitch is obtained. The size of stitch you select will depend on
fabric you are sewing. Straight stitching is done with stitch width control
on 0 setting and by removal of pattern disc.
REVERSESTITCHING
Raise lever for reverse stitching. Lower lever for forward stitching. It
is best to begin and end most seams with reverse stitching often called
back tacking.
BASTING
For accomplishing quicker, more even and firmer basting, we suggest you
regulate the maciline in the following manner; Set stitch length at No. 4
for the longest possible stitch. Machine should be threaded in normal
manner except bypassing the check spring as illustrated. Basting is
easily removed by pulling bottom thread. When basting very sheer fabrics,
use a paper backing.
If you prefer to use pins for basting, your KENMORE will sew over the
pins. Be sure to keep the pins at right angles to the seam and the head
of the pin away from the presser foot. Also reduce pressure on presser
foot.
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Fig. 1
ADJUSTINGTENSIONS
A perfect stitch will have threads locked between the
two layers of fabric with no loops on top or bottom.
(Refer to page 38)
PROBLEM REMEDY
0
O Upper thread too loose
Fig. 3
12
Upper thread too tight
Fig. 2
Decrease Tension
Increase Tension