Changed thermostat. Changed thermostat mounting bracket.
Change to new layout. Added note for “wye configuration”.
Added Overflow Lift Brackets. Added Right False Panel
Weldment used with overflow tube lifter. Added universal False
Panel Weldment for Tempstars. Update Tempstar Top Mount
460V Schematic to revision D. Added “GO*BOX” Kit.
Added schematics and parts for Universal Timers to be used in
Top Mount Control Boxes Only.
Update to current layout. Added phase conversion instructions
and service kits. Changed hood supports and added hood block
spacers. Added numbers for plumbing assemblies. Updated drain
quench assembly drawing. Replaced 05930-121-67-72 with
05930-510-02-79.
i
NOMENCLATURE FOR THE MODELS COVERED IN THIS MANUAL
TEMPSTAR NB
TEMPSTAR = Electrically heated, high temp, hot water sanitizing, with booster heater, door-type dishmachine
TEMPSTAR LT = Electrically heated, low temp, chemical sanitizing, no rinse booster, door-type dishmachine
TEMPSTAR NB = Electrically heated, high temp, hot water sanitizing, no rinse booster, door-type dishmachine
TEMPSTAR S = Steam heated, high temp, hot water sanitizing, door-type dishmachine
TEMPSTAR SDS = Electrically heated, high temp, with solid chemical dispenser, with booster heater, doortype dishmachine
Model:
Serial No.:
Installation Date:
Service Rep. Name:
Phone No.:
ii
TABLE OF CONTENTS
SectionDescriptionPage
I.Specifications
Operating Capacities2
Electrical Requirements3
Dimensions Tempstar/Tempstar LT/Tempstar NB (Side Mounted Control Box)4
Dimensions Tempstar/Tempstar LT/Tempstar NB (Top Mounted Control Box)5
Dimensions Tempstar SDS6
Table Dimensions7
WASH TEMPERATURE (MINIMUM)(°F)150
WASH TEMPERATURE (MINIMUM)(°C)66
RINSE TEMPERATURE (MINIMUM)(°F)180
RINSE TEMPERATURE (MINIMUM)(°C)83
INLET WATER TEMPERATURE:
14KW RINSE HEATER (°C)44
FLOW PRESSURE (PSI)20A5
WATER LINE SIZE (NPT)3/4”
DRAIN LINE SIZE (NPT)1 1/2”
TEMPSTAR LT:
WASH TEMPERATURE (MINIMUM)(°F)130
WASH TEMPERATURE (MINIMUM)(°C)55
RINSE TEMPERATURE (MINIMUM)(°F)130
RINSE TEMPERATURE (MINIMUM)(°C)55
INLET WATER TEMPERATURE (°F)130
INLET WATER TEMPERATURE (°C)55
FLOW PRESSURE (PSI)20A5
WATER LINE SIZE (NPT)3/4”
DRAIN LINE SIZE (NPT)1 1/2”
MINIMUM CHLORINE REQUIRED (PPM)50
ELECTRICAL REQUIREMENTS
WASH MOTOR HP3/4
NOTE: Always refer to the machine data plate for specific
electrical and water requirements. The material provided
on this page is for reference only and may be subject to
change without notice.
WASH TEMPERATURE (MINIMUM)(°F)150
WASH TEMPERATURE (MINIMUM)(°C)66
RINSE TEMPERATURE (MINIMUM)(°F)180
RINSE TEMPERATURE (MINIMUM)(°C)83
INLET WATER TEMPERATURE (°F)180
INLET WATER TEMPERATURE (°C)83
FLOW PRESSURE (PSI)20A5
WATER LINE SIZE (NPT)3/4”
DRAIN LINE SIZE (NPT)1 1/2”
2
SECTION 1: SPECIFICATION INFORMATION
ELECTRICAL REQUIREMENTS
NOTE: Typical Electrical Circuit is based upon (1) 125% of the full amperage load of the machine and (2) typical
fixed-trip circuit breaker sizes as listed in the NEC 2002 Edition. Local codes may require more stringent protection
than what is displayed here. Always verify with your electrical service contractor that your circuit protection is adequate and meets all applicable national and local codes. These numbers are provided in this manual simply for reference and may change without notice at any given time.
VISUAL INSPECTION: Before installing the unit, check the container and machine for damage. A damaged container is an indi -
cator that there may be some damage to the machine. If there is damage to both the container and machine, do not throw away
the container. The dishmachine has been inspected and packed at the factory and is expected to arrive to you in new, undamaged
condition. However, rough handling by carriers or others may result in there being damage to the unit while in transit. If such a situation occurs, do not return the unit to Jackson; instead, contact the carrier and ask them to send a representative to the site to
inspect the damage to the unit and to complete an inspection report. You must contact the carrier within 48 hours of receiving the
machine. Also, contact the dealer through which you purchased the unit.
UNPACKING THE DISHMACHINE: Once the machine has been removed from the container, ensure that there are no missing
parts from the machine. This may not be obvious at first. If it is discovered that an item is missing, contact Jackson immediately to
have the missing item shipped to you.
LEVEL THE DISHMACHINE: The dishmachine is designed to operate while being level. This is important to prevent any damage
to the machine during operation and to ensure the best results when washing ware. The unit comes with adjustable bullet feet,
which can be turned using a pair of channel locks or by hand if the unit can be raised safely. Ensure that the unit is level from side
to side and from front to back before making any connections.
PLUMBING THE DISHMACHINE: All plumbing connections must comply with all applicable local, state, and national plumbing
codes. The plumber is responsible for ensuring that the incoming water line is thoroughly flushed prior to connecting it to any component of the dishmachine. It is necessary to remove all foreign debris from the water line that may potentially get trapped in the
valves or cause an obstruction. Any valves that are fouled as a result of foreign matter left in the water line, and any expenses
resulting from this fouling, are not the responsibility of the manufacturer.
CONNECTING THE DRAIN LINE: The drain for the Tempstar models covered in this manual are gravity discharge drains. All piping from the 1 1/2” FNPT connection on the wash tank must be pitched (1/4” per foot) to the floor or sink drain. All piping from the
machine to the drain must be a minimum 1 1/2” I.P.S. and shall not be reduced. There must also be an air gap between the machine
drain line and the floor sink or drain. If a grease trap is required by code, it should have a flow capacity of 5 gallons per minute.
WATER SUPPLY CONNECTION: Ensure that you have read the section entitled “PLUMBING THE DISHMACHINE” above before
proceeding. Install the water supply line (3/4” pipe size minimum) to the dishmachine line strainer using copper pipe. It is recom mended that a water shut-off valve be installed in the water line between the main supply and the machine to allow access for service.
The water supply line is to be capable of 20 A5 PSI “flow” pressure at the recommended temperature indicated on the data plate.
In areas where the water pressure fluctuates or is greater than the recommended pressure, it is suggested that a water pressure
regulator be installed. The Tempstar models covered in this manual come with water pressure regulators as standard equipment.
Please notify Jackson immediately if this component is not present on your machine.
Do not confuse static pressure with flow pressure. Static pressure is the line pressure in a “no flow” condition (all valves and services are closed). Flow pressure is the pressure in the fill line when the fill valve is opened during the cycle.
It is also recommended that a shock absorber (not supplied with the Tempstar model) be installed in the incoming water line. This
prevents line hammer (hydraulic shock), induced by the solenoid valve as it operates, from causing damage to the equipment.
STEAM LINE CONNECTION: The steam machines come with lines by which the source steam needs to be connected. Connect
all steam lines to the machine as all applicable codes provide. See machine data plate for information concerning steam flow pressure.
CHEMICAL DISPENSING EQUIPMENT: The Tempstar LT machine requires that a separate chemical feeder be connected to it to
provide the required detergent and sanitizer. This feeder needs to be able to operate against a head of 25 PSI and provide 1.79
ml of a 10% Chlorine sanitizer per minute.
PLUMBING CHECK: Slowly turn on the water supply to the machine after the incoming fill line and the drain line have been
installed. Check for any leaks and repair as required. All leaks must be repaired prior to placing the machine in operation.
ELECTRICAL POWER CONNECTION: Electrical and grounding connections must comply with the applicable portions of the
National Electrical Code ANSI/NFPA 70 (latest edition) and/or other electrical codes.
Disconnect electrical power supply and place a tag at the disconnect switch to indicate that you are working on the circuit.
The dishmachine data plate is located on the right side and to the front of the machine. Refer to the data plate for machine oper-
ating requirements, machine voltage, total amperage load and serial number.
To install the incoming power lines, open the control box. This will require taking a phillipshead screwdriver and removing the four
(4) screws on the front cover of the control box. Install 3/4” conduit into the pre-punched holes in the back of the control box. Route
power wires and connect to power block and grounding lug. Install the service wires (L1, L2, and L3 (3 phase only)) to the appropriate terminals as they are marked on the terminal block. Install the grounding wire into the lug provided. Tighten the connections.
It is recommended that “DE-OX” or another similar anti-oxidation agent be used on all power connections.
VOLTAGE CHECK: Ensure that the power switch is in the OFF position and apply power to the dishmachine. Check the incoming power at the terminal block and ensure it corresponds to the voltage listed on the data plate. If not, contact a qualified service agency to examine the problem. Do not run the dishmachine if the voltage is too high or too low. Shut off the service breaker and mark it as being for the dishmachine. Advise all proper personnel of any problems and of the location of the service
breaker. Replace the control box cover and tighten down the screws.
PREPARATION: Before proceeding with the start-up of the unit, verify the following:
1. The pan strainer and pump suction strainer are in place and are clean.
2. The overflow tube and o-ring are installed.
3. That the wash and rinse arms are screwed securely into place and that their endcaps are tight. The wash and rinse
arms should rotate freely.
POWER UP: To energize the unit, turn on the power at the service breaker. The voltage should have been previously verified
as being correct. If not, the voltage will have to be verified.
FILLING THE WASH TUB: Ensure that the delime switch is in the NORMAL position, and place the power switch into the ON
position. The Tempstar should fill automatically and shut off when the appropriate level is reached (just below the pan strainer). Verify that the drain stopper is preventing the wash tub water from leaking excessively. There may be some slight leakage
from the drain hole. Verify that there are no other leaks on the unit before proceeding any further. The wash tub must be completely filled before operating the wash pump to prevent damage to the component. Once the wash tub is filled, the unit is ready
for operation.
WARE PREPARATION: Proper preparation of ware will help ensure good results and less re-washes. If not done properly, ware
may not come out clean and the efficiency of the dishmachine will be reduced. It is important to remember that a dishmachine
is not a garbage disposal and that simply throwing unscraped dishes into the machine simply defeats the purpose altogether
of washing the ware. Scraps should be removed from ware prior to being loaded into a rack. Pre-rinsing and pre-soaking are
good ideas, especially for silverware and casserole dishes. Place cups and glasses upside down in racks so that they do not
hold water during the cycle. The dishmachine is meant not only to clean, but to sanitize as well, to destroy all of the bacteria
that could be harmful to human beings. In order to do this, ware must be properly prepared prior to being placed in the machine.
DAILY MACHINE PREPARATION: Refer to the section entitled “PREPARATION” at the top of this page and follow the instructions there. Afterwards, check that all of the chemical levels are correct and/or that there is plenty of detergent available for the
expected workload.
WARM-UP CYCLES: For a typical daily start-up, it may be necessary to run the machine through 3 cycles to ensure that all of
the cold water is out of the system and to verify that the unit is operating correctly. To cycle the machine, ensure that the power
is on and that the tub has filled to the correct level. Lift the doors and the cycle light will illuminate. When the light goes out,
close the doors, the unit will start, run through the cycle, and shut off automatically. Repeat this two more times. The unit should
now be ready to proceed with the washing of ware.
WASHING A RACK OF WARE: To wash a rack, open the doors completely (being careful for hot water that may drip from the
doors) and slide the rack into the unit.
Close the doors and the unit will start automatically. Once the cycle is completed, open the door (again watching for the dripping hot water) and remove the rack of clean ware. Replace with a rack of soiled ware and close the doors. The process will
then repeat itself.
OPERATIONAL INSPECTION: Based upon usage, the pan strainer may become clogged with soil and debris as the workday
progresses. Operators should regularly inspect the pan strainer to ensure it has not become clogged. If the strainer does, it will
reduce the washing capability of the machine. Instruct operators to clean out the pan strainer at regular intervals or as required
by work load.
SHUTDOWN AND CLEANING: At the end of the workday, close the doors. When the unit completes the cycle, turn the power
switch to the OFF position and open the doors. Remove and clean the pan strainer. Remove the drain stopper from the tub and
allow the tub to drain (NOTE: the wash tank water will be hot so caution is advised). Once the wash tub is drained, remove the
pump suction strainer. Remove soil and debris from the strainer and set to the side. Unscrew the wash and rinse arms from
their manifolds. Remove the endcaps and flush the arms with water. Use a brush to clean out the inside of the arms. If the nozzles appear to be clogged, use a toothpick to remove the obstruction. Wipe the inside of the unit out, removing all soil and
scraps. Reassembly the wash and rinse arms and replace them in the unit. The arms only need to be hand tight, do not use
tools to tighten them down. Reinstall the drain stopper and strainers and close the doors.
Detergent usage and water hardness are two factors that contribute greatly to how efficiently your dishmachine will operate.
Using detergent in the proper amount can become, in time, a source of substantial savings. A qualified water treatment specialist can tell you what is needed for maximum efficiency from your detergent, but you should still know some basics so you’ll
understand what they are talking about.
First, you must understand that hard water greatly effects the performance of the dishmachine. Water hardness is the amount
of dissolved calcium and magnesium in the water supply. The more dissolved solids in the water, the greater the water hardness. Hard water works against detergent, thereby causing the amount of detergent required for washing to increase. As you
use more detergent, your costs for operating the dishmachine will increase and the results will decrease. The solids in hard
water also may build-up as a scale on wash and rinse heaters, decreasing their ability to heat water. Water temperature is
important in removing soil and sanitizing dishes. If the water cannot get hot enough, your results may not be satisfactory. This
is why Jackson recommends that if you have installed the machine in an area with hard water, that you also install some type
of water treatment equipment to help remove the dissolved solids from the water before it gets to the dishmachine.
Second, hard water may have you adding drying agents to your operating cycle to prevent spotting, when the real problem is
deposited solids on your ware. As the water evaporates off of the ware, the solids will be left behind to form the spotting and
no amount of drying agent will prevent this. Again, using treated water will undoubtedly reduce the occurrences of this problem.
Third, treated water may not be suitable for use in other areas of your operation. For instance, coffee made with soft water may
have an acid or bitter flavor. It may only be feasible to install a small treatment unit for the water going into the dishmachine
itself. Discuss this option with your qualified water treatment specialist.
Even after the water hardness problems have been solved, there still must be proper training of dishmachine operators in how
much detergent is to be used per cycle. Talk with your water treatment specialist and detergent vendor and come up with a
complete training program for operators. Using too much detergent has as detrimental effects as using too little. The proper
amount of detergent must be used for job. It is important to remember that certain menu items may require extra detergent by
their nature and personnel need to be made aware of this. Experience in using the dishmachine under a variety of conditions,
along with good training in the operation of the machine, can go a long way in ensuring your dishmachine operates as effi ciently as possible.
Certain dishmachine models require that chemicals be provided for proper operation and sanitization. Some models even
require the installation of third-party chemical feeders to introduce those chemicals to the machine. Jackson does not recommend or endorse any brand name of chemicals or chemical dispensing equipment. Contact your local chemical distributor for
questions concerning these subjects.
Some dishmachines come equipped with integral solid detergent dispensers. These dispensers are designed to accommodate
detergents in a certain sized container. If you have such a unit, remember to explain this to your chemical distributor upon first
contacting them.
As explained before, water temperature is an important factor in ensuring that your dishmachine functions properly. The data
plate located on each unit details what the minimum temperatures must be for either the incoming water supply, the wash tank
and the rinse tank, depending on what model of dishmachine you have installed. These temperatures may also be followed by
temperatures that Jackson recommends to ensure the highest performance from you dishmachine. However, if the minimum
requirements are not met, the chances are your dishes will not be clean or sanitized. Remember, a dish can look clean, but it
may not be sanitized. Instruct your dishmachine operators to observe the required temperatures and to report when they fall
below the minimum allowed. A loss of temperature can indicate a much larger problem such as a failed heater or it could also
indicate that the hot water heater for your operation is not up to capacity and a larger one may need to be installed.
There are several factors to consider when installing your dishmachine to ensure that you get the best possible results from it
and that it operates at peak efficiency for many years. Discuss your concerns with your local chemical distributor and water
treatment specialist before there is a problem.
The dishmachines covered in this manual are designed to operate with a minimum of interaction with the operator. However,
this does not mean that some items will not wear out in time. Jackson highly recommends that any maintenance and repairs
not specifically discussed in this manual should be performed by QUALIFIED SERVICE PERSONNEL ONLY. Performing maintenance on your dishmachine may void your warranty if it is still in effect, so if you have a question or concern, do not hesitate
to contact one of the QUALIFIED SERVICE AGENCIES listed in the back of this manual.
There are many things that operators can do to prevent catastrophic damage to the dishmachine. One of the major causes of
component failure has to do with prescrapping procedures. A dishmachine is not a garbage disposal; any large pieces of material that are put into the machine shall remain in the machine until they are either broken up (after spreading out on your ware!)
or physically removed. Strainers are installed to help catch debris, but they do no good if they are clogged. Have operators regularly inspect the pan strainers to ensure (1) that they are free of soil and debris and (2) they are laying flat in the tub.
When cleaning out strainers, do NOT beat them on waste cans. The strainers are made of metal and can be forgiving; but once
severe damage is done, it is next to impossible for the strainer to work in the way it was designed to. Wipe out strainers with
a rag and rinse under a faucet if necessary. For stubborn debris, a toothpick should be able to dislodge any obstructions from
the perforations. Always ensure that strainers are placed back in the machine before operation and that they lay flat in the tub.
You may wish to learn more about how your water hardness will effect the performance of your machine. Hard water makes
dishmachines work harder and decreases efficiency.
Again, it is important to remind operators that trying to perform corrective maintenance on the dishmachine could lead to larger problems or even cause harm to the operator. If a problem is discovered; secure the dishmachine using proper shut down
procedures as listed in this manual and contact a QUALIFIED SERVICE AGENCY.
Some problems, however, may having nothing to do with the machine itself and no amount of preventative maintanence is
going to help. A common problem has to do with temperatures being too low. Verify that the water temperatures coming to your
dishmachine match the requirements listed on the machine data plate. There can be a variety of reasons why your water temperature could be too low and you should discuss it with a QUALIFIED SERVICE AGENCY to determine what can be done.
By following the operating and cleaning instructions in this manual, you should get the most efficient results from your machine.
As a reminder, here are some steps to take to ensure that you are using the dishmachine the way it was designed to work:
1. Ensure that the water temperatures match those listed on the machine data plate.
2. Ensure that all strainers are in place before operating the machine.
3. Ensure that all wash and/or rinse arms are secure in the machine before operating.
4. Ensure that drains are closed/sealed before operating.
5. Remove as much soil from dishes by hand as possible before loading into racks.
6. Do not overfill racks.
7. Ensure that glasses are placed upside down in the rack.
8. Ensure that all chemicals being injected to machine have been verified as being at the correct concentrations.
9. Clean out the machine at the end of every workday as per the instructions in the manual.
10. Always contact a QUALIFIED SERVICE AGENCY whenever a serious problem arises.
11. Follow all safety procedures, whether listed in this manual or put forth by local, state or national codes/regulations.
WARNING: Inspection, testing and repair of electrical equipment should only be performed by a qualified
service technician. Many of the tests require that the unit have power to it and live electrical components be
exposed. USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN TESTING THE MACHINE.
Problem: Dishmachine will not fill after the door is close. Power “ON” light is illuminated.
1. Faulty rinse solenoid valve. Repair or replace valve as required.
2. Faulty door switch. Verify the wiring of the switch; if correct, replace the switch.
3. Fouled/faulty high level probe. Clean probe if fouled. If clean, and still not working, replace.
Problem: Dishmachine will not fill after the door is closed. Power “ON” light is not illuminated.
1. Service breaker tripped. Reset. If the breaker trips again, contact an electrician to verify the amp draw of the machine.
2. Machine not connected to power source. Verify that the machine has been properly connected to the power source.
3. Faulty power source. Verify the wiring of the switch; if correct, replace switch.
Problem: Dishmachine will not run after the door is closed. Power “ON” light is illuminated and the unit is filling.
1. Timer motor is faulty. Verify that the timer is rotating. If not, check to see that the motor is receiving power. If so, replace
the motor and/or timer assembly.
2. Wash motor faulty/damaged. Verify that the wash motor is getting power. If so, replace the motor.
3. Wash motor contactor faulty. Check for continuity; if contacts are open, replace the contactor.
Problem: Dishmachine runs continuously in the wash cycle.
1. Machine is in Delime mode. Flip NORMAL/DELIME switch to NORMAL mode.
2. Timer motor is faulty. Verify that the timer is rotating. If not, check to see that the motor is receiving power. If so, replace
the motor and/or timer assembly.
3. Cam timer jammed by obstruction. Remove obstruction.
Problem: Wash or rinse heater does not work.
1. Faulty heater element. Check element for continuity; if open, replace the heater.
2. Faulty heater contactor. Replace the contactor.
3. Misadjusted/faulty thermostat(s). Verify operation and setting of thermostats, replace if necessary.
Problem: Dishmachine fill slowly and/or the rinse is weak.
1. Clogged or obstructed rinse arms. Remove and clean the rinse arms.
2. Low incoming water pressure. Adjust the water pressure regulator to ensure that there is 20 A5 PSI flow.
3. Y-strainer is clogged. Clean out the Y-strainer.
Problem: Rinse water not reaching required temperature.
1. Faulty rinse heater. Check element for continuity; if open, replace heater.
2. Misadjusted/faulty thermostat(s). Verify operation and setting of thermostats, replace if necessary.
3. Rinse thermometer is defective. Replace thermometer.
Problem: Wash water is not reaching required temperature.
1. Faulty wash heater. Check element for continuity; if open, relace the heater.
2. Misadjusted/faulty thermostat(s). Verify operation and setting of thermostats, replace if necessary.
3. Wash thermometer is defective. Replace thermometer.
WARNING: Inspection, testing and repair of electrical equipment should only be performed by a qualified
service technician. Many of the tests require that the unit have power to it and live electrical components
be exposed. USE EXTREME CAUTION WHEN TESTING THE MACHINE.
Problem: Doors will not close completely.
1. Improper spring tension. Adjust spring tension as required by loosening (not removing) spring bolt nuts and adjusting the
tension. Tighten nuts back when done.
2. Obstruction in door channel. Remove the obstruction.
3. Doors are not square with frame. Adjust the frame to accommodate the doors.
Problem: Water leaks at the wash pump.
1. Wash pump seal defective. Replace the seal.
2. Petcock or pump drain (if equipped) not shut/tight. Close or tighten.
3. Loose hoses (hose clamps) on the wash pump. Tighten the hose clamps.
Problem: Will not rinse during autocycle.
1. Defective rinse solenoid. Repair or replace the rinse solenoid as required.
2. Faulty fill microswitch. Replace microswitch.
3. No water to the machine. Verify that there is water a 20 A5 PSI connected to the machine.
Problem: Dishes are not coming clean.
1. Machine temperatures are not up to the minimum requirements. Verify that incoming water, rinse water, and wash water
match the required temperatures as listed on the machine data plate.
2. No detergent/too much detergent. Adjust detergent concentration as required for the amount of water held by the machine.
3. Solid dispenser canister is empty. Replace the canister.
These dishmachines are equipped with electrical
solenoid valves to allow for automatic fill and rinse. These
valves are designed to specific tolerances and design aspects
that must be met in order to function properly.
Jackson offers repair kits for replacing some of the
wear items associated with solenoid valves which will allow
you to save money in that replacement of these parts can take
place without removing the solenoid valve from the plumbing
assembly.
The instructions provided here are for maintenance
personnel only. Unauthorized persons should not attempt any
of the steps contained in these instructions.
Warning: many of the instructions and steps
within this document require the use of tools. Only autho rized personnel should ever perform any maintenance
procedure on the dishmachine!
PREPARATION
1. Power must be secured to the unit at the service
breaker. Tag or lock out the service breaker to prevent accidental or unauthorized energizing of the machine.
2. Ensure that incoming water to the machine is
secured either by use of a shut-off valve or disconnecting the
incoming water line.
TOOLS REQUIRED
STEPS
1. Remove the top screw with the 5/16” nutdriver. Remove the
screw and the data plate and set to the side.
Removing the top screw
2. With the top screw and data plate removed, grasp the solenoid coil and gently pull up. The coil should slide up, allowing
you to remove it from the valve bonnet. If you are wanting to
replace the coil, continue on with Step 3. If you are wanting to
replace some of the internal components of the valve, proceed to step 12.
The following tools will be needed to perform this
maintenance evolution:
1. Small flathead screwdriver
2. Medium flathead screwdriver
2. Needle nose pliers
3. 5/16” nutdriver
4. Channel locks
5. 12” pipe wrench
TIME REQUIRED
It is estimated that it will take (1) person twenty min utes to perform this task, not including all of the items indicated in the section entitled “PREPARATION”.
IMPORTANT NOTES
1. Read these instructions thoroughly before
attempting this maintenance evolution. Become familiar with
the parts and what actions need to be taken. This will save
time in the long run!
2. The procedures demonstrated in this manual are
shown being performed on an AJ-44CE rack conveyor dishmachine. The actual maintenance steps, however, apply to
any Parker style solenoid valve found on a Jackson dishmachine.
Removing the coil
3. NOTE: Replacing the solenoid coil requires working with
the wiring of your machine. It is important that all wiring maintenance be performed by qualified personnel. Always verify
the wiring steps presented in this instruction with the schematic that shipped with the unit. A current schematic can also be
found in the unit’s installation manual. Before beginning any
step that involves working with wiring, ensure that the steps
located in the section entitled “Preparation” have been performed. Power must be secured to the machine at the service
breaker. Failure to do so could result in severe injury to maintenance personnel.
4. When replacing the coil, ensure that when removing the coil
wire cover that care is taken not to damage the wires inside.
Using the medium flathead screwdriver, gently use it to open
the cover enough to where it could be pulled off.
Straightening the wires
5. Once the coil wire cover has been removed and set to the
side, take the internal wires and pull them out straight.
Loosening the conduit nut
7. Using a pair of channel locks, gently loosen the conduit
retaining ring for the conduit nut. Once it is loosened, use your
fingers to unscrew and remove it.
8. Pull the conduit away and discard the bad coil. Take the
new coil and attach the conduit, reinstall & tighten the conduit
nut, and pull the wires through so that you will be able to wire
the valve back up.
9. Reconnect the wires from the conduit to the wires from the
solenoid as they had been connected previously. Ensure that
the wire nuts are on tight.
10. Slide the coil wire cover back on, taking care not to damage the wires.
11. If you are done performing maintenance on the valve, continue on to step 23. Otherwise, please go on to step 12.L
Removing the wire nuts
6. Remove the wire nuts from the wires and separate them.
12. To remove the valve bonnet, grasp it with the jaws of the
pipe wrench and turn to the left. Note: on some models you
may have to remove the valve in order to perform this and any
further steps. Be careful not to damage the plumbing assembly. Only use the pipe wrench enough to where you can spin
the valve bonnet off with your hand.
20
SECTION 5: SERVICE PROCEDURES
RINSE SOLENOID VALVE REPAIR PARTS KIT (CONTINUED)
Removing the valve bonnet
13. Slowly remove the valve bonnet. Note: The spring for the
plunger is located directly under the bonnet and may come
free if you are not careful. Remove the plunger, spring and
valve bonnet and place to the side.
Removing the diaphragm
17. Remove the diaphragm retainer and then the diaphragm
itself. Many problems associated with a solenoid valve can be
traced to a clogged pilot port in the diaphragm.
Removing the O-ring
14. Remove the O-ring and inspect it. If it has any tears or cuts
or excessive flat spaces, it should be replaced.
15. Examine the threads for the valve bonnet. Check them for
scoring or signs of damage. Take a cloth and clean them out
to remove any foreign particles that might get lodged in the
threads and cause a leak. Severely damage threads should
not be repaired; instead it is recommended that the entire
valve should be replaced. These instructions do not provide
information on replacing the solenoid valve.
16. Note: Even though an O-ring may not appear damaged, it
is a good idea to go ahead and replace it if you have a new
one. This will help ensure that your valve remains leak-free in
the future!
18. As indicated in the photo above, the extension hole can
become clogged. If it is difficult to clean out, you can use a
heated straight pin to push through the hole. The center hole,
the pilot port, must also be clear. If the diaphragm is torn or
bent in any way, it must be replaced.
1
2
Diaphragm showing (1) pilot port and (2) extension hole
21
SECTION 5: SERVICE PROCEDURES
RINSE SOLENOID VALVE REPAIR PARTS KIT (CONTINUED)
21. With the mesh screen removed, look down into the valve
and verify it is not clogged. Remove any foreign objects from
the valve body that would obstruct flow.
22. Reassemble the valve, reversing the steps needed to take
it apart. Replace defective replacement parts with new parts
from ordered kits. Ensure that components are sufficiently
tightened to prevent leakage.
AFTER MAINTENANCE ACTIONS
Removing the screen retainer
19. Using the small flathead screwdriver, lift out the screen
retainer. Verify that the holes in it are free of clogs and debris.
Removing the mesh strainer screen
20. Again using the small flathead screwdriver, carefully
remove the mesh screen from inside the valve body. The
screen should be taken and rinsed out to remove any debris
fouling it.
Reconnect the incoming water (if disconnected) and
turn on. Then restore power to the unit. Run the unit for at
least 10 minutes to ensure there are no leaks. If any problems
arise please contact your Jackson representative.
These dishmachines are equipped with vacuum
breakers to serve as back-flow prevention devices. ASSE
requirements specify what type of back-flow prevention is necessary on dishmachines. Vacuum breakers, unlike air gaps,
have certain parts that have specific tolerances and design
aspects that must be met in order to function properly.
Jackson offers repair kits for replacing some of the
wear items associated with vacuum breakers which will allow
you to save money in that replacement of these parts can take
place without removing the vacuum breaker from the plumbing assembly.
The instructions provided here are for maintenance
personnel only. Unauthorized persons should not attempt any
of the steps contained in these instructions.
Warning: many of the instructions and steps
within this document require the use of tools. Only autho rized personnel should ever perform any maintenance
procedure on the dishmachine!
PREPARATION
1. Power must be secured to the unit at the service
breaker. Tag or lock out the service breaker to prevent accidental or unauthorized energizing of the machine.
2. Ensure that incoming water to the machine is
secured either by use of a shut-off valve or disconnecting the
incoming water line.
TOOLS REQUIRED
STEPS
1. Note: These instructions only apply to vacuum breakers
(1/2” NPT and 3/4” NPT) as pictured below. The repair kits
indicated in these instructions will only work on those style of
back-flow preventers. If you have a machine with a different
style of vacuum breaker, contact your Jackson representative
about replacement components.
Vacuum breaker
2. Note: Even though the photos in these instructions show a
vacuum breaker that has been removed from the plumbing
assembly, these maintenance steps could be performed with
it installed so long as the requirements in the section entitled
“PREPARATION” have been met.
3. Remove the top cap by gripping firmly and turning to the
left. The cap should come off after a few turns.
The following tools will be needed to perform this
maintenance evolution:
1. Small flathead screwdriver
2. Needle nose pliers
TIME REQUIRED
It is estimated that it will take (1) person twenty min utes to perform this task, not including all of the items indicated in the section entitled “PREPARATION”.
IMPORTANT NOTES
1. Read these instructions thoroughly before
attempting this maintenance evolution. Become familiar with
the parts and what actions need to be taken. This will save
time in the long run!
Removing the cap
4. Set the cap to the side.
5. Using the needle nose pliers, gently lift out the plunger and
set to the side. Examine the brass seating surface inside the
vacuum breaker. The plunger is required to sit flat on this surface so it must be free of defects, imperfections and the like.
If there is debris, remove it. If it is chipped or cracked then the
vacuum breaker must be replaced. Failure to do so may result
in the vacuum breaker not working according to its design and
could result in damage to the dishmachine.
6. Your repair kit comes with a new plunger. Examine the old
one and ensure that the mating surface is not damaged or cut.
Also inspect the rubber seal on the top of the plunger to
ensure it is in good condition and not torn.
7. If any of these conditions are present, replace the old
plunger with the new one from your kit. Verify that the new
plunger is also free from defects. If it is not, contact your
Jackson representative immediately.
8. The plunger should drop into the vacuum breaker and seat.
Ensure it is not flipped upside down (the orange seal ring
should be up towards the top of the vacuum breaker).
9. Pick up the cap and examine it. With a soft towel, remove
any grit, grime or debris that may have gotten caught in the
threads of both the cap retainer or the vacuum breaker body.
There is an O-ring that should be present on the cap retainer
as well. Regardless of the condition of the plunger, this O-ring
should be replaced once the cap is removed. Using a small
flathead screwdriver, remove the old O-ring.
Examining the seal ring on the plunger
Examining the plunger seating surface
Replacing the O-ring
10. With the new O-ring in place, screw the cap back on the
vacuum breaker body. The cap needs to only be hand tight
(snug).
AFTER MAINTENANCE ACTIONS
1. Reconnect the incoming water (if disconnected)
and turn on. Then restore power to the unit. Run the unit for
at least 10 minutes to ensure there are no leaks. If any problems arise please contact your Jackson representative.
SPECIAL PARTS
To order the kit with components and instructions:
Components of 1/2” Repair Kit