Husqvarna M7 User Manual

Manual

Read the safety instructions.

Warranty

Logosol offers a two-year
warranty against material and
manufacturing defects. The
company will replace or fix any
faulty parts or constructions
within two years of purchase.

Free technical support

Regardless of where you
bought our equipment, we
offer free technical support by
phone, fax, mail or e-mail.

Regular information

All users of Logosol
equipment receive regular
information about new
products and accessories.
Our homepage is also a
source of up-to-date informa­tion.

Those who haven’t
ordered directly
from Logosol.

Everyone who bought directly
from Logosol in Madison is
already fully registered here.
Those of you who bought the
M7 through dealers must
send in the warranty card
below within thirty days of
purchase in order to benefit
from the warranty, get good
service and receive the right
spare parts.

World service

I have the following equipment:

Sawmill M7
Woodworkers Mill
Husqvarna 395 XP
Log House Moulder
Other:
Other:

Other:

Name:
Address:

Tel:
Mobile:
E-mail:
Where bought:
When bought:

World Service

P.O.Box 660
Madison MS 39130

Metric Parts Sizing Chart Nut, Bolt and Washer Chart

To assist you in the assembly of this mill, we have
detailed the nuts, bolts and washers found on each

M6x30 Bolt Sawmill Bolt Sizes

30 mm

M6 M8 M10

0 1020304050607080

Metric scale in mm

Collar nut Collar bolt Allen head bolt

page in the chart below. The part name and size is
listed to the left and the total number found in the
package listed in the second column. To the right, if
a part is listed on a page in the manual, the number
of that part to be used on that page is entered in the
column for the page. Using this chart, you can lay
out the parts for each page, and work your way
through the assembly with your parts needed for
each page. If you find you are missing any parts,
please call our Toll-Free number and we will ship
them out immediately to you.

Note: You will also notice pages referenced on
the bags themselves. DO NOT USE THE PAGE
NUMBERS ON THE BAGS FOR REFERENCE.
Only use the chart below to determine what bag
is used for the assembly of which page.
You will have extra nuts and bolts after the
assembly of this mill.

BAG 71 BAG 72-73 BAG 74 BAG 75 BAG 76 BAG 77

Total for Page 10 for Page 11 for Page 12 for Page 13-14 for page 15-17 for Page 18

Collar nut M6

Collar nut M8 18 8 10

Locking nut M6 7 43

Locking nut M8 22

Locking nut M10 1 1

Square nut M6 18 6 8 4

Nut M10 22

Collar bolt M6x20 30 16 14

Collar bolt M6x40 88

Bolt M6x16 12 84

Bolt M6x20 12 8 4

Bolt M6x25 1 1

Bolt M6x40 6 42

Bolt M6x60 22

Bolt M10x40 22

Allen head bolt M6x25 44

Allen head bolt M6x30 44

Allen head bolt M8x14 22

Allen head bolt M8x25 88

Allen head bolt M8x30 88

Locking screw M6x8 66

Locking screw M6x10 44

M6 Washer 7 43

M8 Washer 88

M10 Washer 22

64 24 8 8 8

4

Preface

You are now the owner of a
Logosol M7 WoodWorkers
Mill, the result of our collective
experience and dedicated
efforts since 1988. There are
currently more than fifteen
thousand Logosol Sawmill in
use in Sweden and the rest of
the world, making the Logosol
Portable sawmills the top
seller world-wide.

The goal for Logosol’s
development effort is to de­sign smaller and lighter
machines that solve a task
intelligently, but without
lowering the quality of the
finished product. To top it off,
Logosol products must be
affordably priced so as to
make them available to
everyone working with wood.

Logosol produces a large
range of products, enabling a
single person to handle the
entire production chain from
forest felling to finished
product.

In addition to various sized
sawmills, the range includes
such products as a multi­sided planer providing
exellent profiling. For more
information on Logosol
products and accessories,
send for our catalog.

In closing, I wish you much
enjoyment and success with
your future Woodworking
projects.

Bengt-Olov Byström
Precident Logosol

Design and construction of the
M7 WoodWorkers Milll, plus
manual text and pictures:
Mattias Byström.

As LOGOSOL is constantly
developing and improving all
machines and devices, we
must reserve the right to
change the design, technical
characteristics and equipment
of our machines.

Printed on chlorine-free paper
using vegetable-oil based ink.

Manual, part. no.:
9999-000-9999

Copyright 2003 Logosol, Härnö­sand, Sweden

Contents

Safety Rules 6
Description 8
Technical Specifications 8
Assembly 8
Tools Needed 8
M7 Components 9

Assembly: frame 10
Assembly: guide rail 11
Assembly: cross beam 11
Assembly: guide rail strut 11
Assembly: log side-rest 12
Assembly: log bed 12
Assembly: saddle plate 13
Assembly: rachet 13

Assembly:
crank and lifting cable 14
Assembly: edge support 14
Assembly: carriage 15
Assembly: chain guard 16
Assembly: extender nuts 16
Assembly: chain-saw 17
Assembly: spiked log grip 18

Siting 19
Adjustments – log bed 20
Adjustments –guide bar 21
Step-by-step Sawing 22
Sawing Tips 23
Material Drying 24
Trouble-shooting 25
Cutting Equipment 26
Accessories 28
Parts List 29
EU Declaration 30

For us, the most important
consideration is that you are
100% satisfied with your M7
WoodWorkers Mill. If you have
any questions or thoughts
about the sawmill, please do
not hesitate to contact us.

5

Safety rules

There are special
safety rules to
follow and dangers
to be aware of when
working with the
Logosol M7
WoodWorkers Mill.

other than the operator is 8 m
(26 feet) from all sides except
where the logs are rolled in.
The safety distance from this
side is 15 m (50 feet), due to the
danger of the chain being
thrown out if it breaks.

Always wear authorized
personal protective

clothing and equipment.

Close-fitting working overalls
are the appropriate garment –
never wear loose items,
worker’s jackets or the like.

This symbol points to
dangers. However, since
all risks are not marked,
you must read the entire
text.

This symbol calls for
additional attention to the
text.

Read through this whole
manual carefully before using

the M7. Failure to observe these
safety instructions may result in
fatal injury.

Make sure that every person
who uses the machine is well
informed of the dangers and
has read the entire manual. The
manual must also be available
to everyone using the sawmill.
This is also necessary if the
machine is sold or loaned out.

Read the manual and safety
rules for the particular sawing
unit used on the M7.

Minors under age 18 should not
be allowed to operate the M7.

Make sure that children and
animals are kept at a safe
distance.

Anyone working with the Logo­sol M7 WoodWorkers Mill must
be well-rested, healthy and in
good physical condition. Take
regular breaks while working
and never operate the machine
while under the influence of
alcohol, other drugs or
medicines that might cause
drowsiness or in-attention.

Work only in when the light is
good – never in darkness, fog or
the like.

Whenever you add extra
equipment to the M7 sawmill,
use products made by Logosol
or specifically approved by
Logosol for the purpose. Other
equipment can cause accidents
and thus should not be used.
Logosol will not accept liability
for personal injury or material
damage incurred while using
unauthorized attachments.

Should a sawing unit weighing
more than 15 kg (33 lbs) be
used, support legs must be
fitted under the guide rail ends in
order to avoid tipping.

Do not wear a neckerchief, tie,
jewellery or other items that can
get caught in the equipment.

Use safety shoes with
high-grip soles and
steel toecaps.

Wear a safety helmet
with hearing protection
and a face shield.

Remember that hearing can

be damaged after relatively
short exposure to the high
frequency sounds from the
motor and the cutting
equipment.

Protective goggles are also
required as a face shield used
alone will not provide sufficient
protection for the eyes.

Wear strong gloves.
There is an injury risk
whenever you handle

the chain and the
cutting equipment can be hot
after sawing .

Never reach over or under the
guide rail during operation. The
cutting equipment can cause
severe injuries.

While the Logosol
WoodWorkers Mill is a one­person machine, be sure that
there are other persons within
hailing distance. The proper
safety distance for persons

6

When using a petrol-driven
chain-saw:

Fire danger – Turn the

motor off before filling with
petrol. Petrol is extremely
flammable! Burns can cause
death! If you spill any fuel, clean
off any parts involved. If you get
fuel on your clothing, change
immediately.

Close the tank lid as tightly as
possible in order to reduce the
risk of it coming loose due to
vibrations during sawing.

Never operate the chain-saw
with the throttle lever locked.
Always operate the throttle
manually.

Do not use a ripping chain

for cross-cuts as this

increases the danger of

kickback.

Before using the M7:

Check the condition of the lifting
lines especially carefully,
replacing them at the slightest
sign of wear. Check that all bolts
and lock nuts on the log bed
lifting unit and the locking sys­tem are tight and that all moving
parts move freely.

Service:

The M7 sawmill must be
checked regularly and
maintained as needed.
Perform only the maintenance
and repairs specified in the
manual. Other repairs must be
done by Logosol or by
authorized Logosol dealers.
Do not make any alterations in
the construction of the sawmill
as this can increase the
accident risk. After service, the
M7 sawmill should be returned
to its original condition.
Logosol accepts no liability for
damage that occurs while
working on an improperly
modified machine.

During operation:

To avoid tipping, never
place the machine at an
angle while operating. The

M7 should be fastened directly
to the floor or be placed on a
bedding of planks in order to
increase the contact surface
(follow the manual).

Hold the crank firmly whenever
raising or lowering a log. If
released, the crank may spin
back and hit your hand.

Do not saw logs that are so
short that they do not extend

0.2 m (app. 10 “) outside each
log bed. A shorter log could fall

when the log beds are raised.

The overall max. load capacity
of the M7 is 500 kg (1100 lbs).
The 2.5 m extension increases
the capacity by 250 kg (550 lbs)
for each extension with a lifting
unit.

Always stand to the right
of the chain-saw while it is
operating. When a chain or

band breaks, it is thrown out
through the chip outlet.
Keep the worksite free of tools,
pieces of wood, chips and other
items you can trip on.
Turn the chain-saw off after
each cut. Do not leave the M7
sawmill unattended where
unauthorized persons might
start it.

To avoid tipping, check that the
M7 stands level and is well
fastened in the bedding.

To avoid chain breaks, check
that the cutting equipment is
correctly assembled.

To avoid kickbacks when star­ting, check that the chain-saw is
correctly positioned on the guide
rail.

Do not place your hand
inside the long leg while
raising or lowering the log.

Should the lifting line snap or the
crank spin, your hand may be
caught.

Logs must always be rolled
on to the sawmill level with the
horizontal beam. Do not lift logs
from ground level directly onto
the sawmill as this can cause
injury if the machine tips or the
log falls.

ALWAYS

REMEMBER that should

any type of problem occur,
stop sawing and turn off the
chain-saw. Most accidents
with dangerous machines
happen when something
goes wrong and the opera­tor attempts to fix it while
the machine is still running.
A stop seldom shows up
on the finished product.

7

Description Assembly

- Because of the high quality
and precision construction,
none of the angles need setting.
The only parts to adjust are the
guide rail and the height of log
bed, in all three bolts.

- All aluminium components are
anodized, creating a wearing
surface as tough as tempered
steel. It has a low friction
coefficient and is easy to keep
free of pitch and chips.

- Adjustable legs make it easy to
compensate for uneven sites.

- The M7 has a double rachet
mechanism enabling a simple
shift by hand between 1/4” (6.25
mm) and 1/8” (3.12 mm)
increments.

- Clear scales show the height
of the log bed. Extra measuring
rods are available as
accessories to show sawing
height settings.

- The knee joint on the front leg
has a non-slip surface that
facilitates log handling. The joint
also has a mounting hole for
ramps, log tables and the like.

- The cross beam between the
short legs is a significant
stabilization factor.

- No maintenance is needed.
The crank axle runs through
maintenance-free bronze
bearings, the slide rails use low­friction plastic that has a
working life of several years
thanks to the superbly smooth
surface anodization.

- The settings for sawing
parallel to the grain of conical
logs are quick and simple.

- All accessories for M7 sawmill
fits the M7 WoodWorkers Mill as
well.

Technical specifications

Length: 2.75 m (9 ft)
Width: 1.25 m (4 ft)
Width of log bed:0.5 m (1ft 8 in)
Weightwithout saw:38.5 kg (85
lbs)
Max. rec. log diam.: 0.6 m (2 ft)
Max. rec. log length (standard
design): 2.35 m (8 ft)
Max.logweight: 500 kg (1 100
lbs)

The M7 is designed for simple
assembly and adjustment,
mainly because there are fewer
parts and assembly steps than
were needed in earlier models.
Most of the aluminium parts are
anodized making it easier to
force the bolts through the
profile holes. Assemble the M7
on a surface that will not
scratch the surface treatment.

Save time by reading the

entire assembly instruction
before beginning to work. Then
follow the instructions step by
step.

Whenever this symbol

appears, tighten bolt loosely
to allow some movement.
When there is no symbol,
tighten the bolts well.

Tools needed

(Tools are not supplied with
delivery of the M7
WoodWorkers Mill.)
2 x 10 mm open end wrench
1 x 13 mm open end wrench
1 x 16 mm open end wrench
1 x 17 mm open end wrench
Hexagon socket wrench/Allen
key (metric)
1 x 4 mm open end wrench
1 x 8 mm open end wrench
1 x Try square

- The Logosol M7
WoodWorkers Mill will not rust.
Springs are stainless steel and
all steel parts are thoroughly
galvanized.

8

Assembly will be facilitated with
a battery-driven drill or
screwdriver with a 10 mm
hexagon socket and a ratchet
key with 10 and 13 mm hexagon
sockets.

M7 WoodWorkers Mill components

What follows is a brief description of the M7
components to assist in identifying them during
assembly. A more complete listing is found at the end
of the manual.

1

12

13

10

8

7

2

1 Guide rail
2 Long leg
3 Horizontal beam
4 Short leg
5 Cross beam
6 Edge support
7 Log bed

9

8 Guide rail strut
9 Foot
10 Log rest
11 Knee joint
12 Carriage
13 Log grip
14 Lifting beam
15 Ratchet bar
16 Ratchet bar stop plate
17 Saddle plate
18 Ratchet Cam

Cam Axle

19 Ratchet handle

Ratchet neutral plate
Turning spring

20 Crank

Lockring
Lockring with line attachment

21 Plastic slide rail on log bed

Indicator
22 Angle fitting
23 Line pulleys

14

6

11

3

5

4

21

15

20

18

17

19

22

23

16

9

Assembly: frame

2

A

1

3

4

The right and left leg units of the
frame are assembled in the
same way. The bolts listed

below are for one leg unit.

(1) Fit the horizontal beam to

the short leg using the corner
fitting. Be careful not to damage
the bevelled faces before
assembly. (4 x M6x20 bolts, 4 x
M6 collar nuts)

(2) Fit the horizontal beam to
the long leg. The scale plate is
fitted to the long leg using the
two lower bolts.

4

Tighten all four bolts
loosely to allow the beams

to move somewhat in relation to
each other. (4 x M6x20 collar
bolts, 4 x M6 collar nuts)

(3) Fit the angle fitting to the
long leg and to the underside of
the horizontal beam. First
tighten the four bolts on the
angle fitting loosely, gradually
tightening them all the way. In
this way the frame will be set at
exactly 90°. (4 x M6x20 collar
bolts, 4 x M6 collar nuts)

Finally tighten the bolts between
the horizontal beam and the
long leg. (2)

(4) Fit the sawmill feet, turning
them so that the holes in the
foot and the leg form a cross
and that they lie correctly in the
leg tracks. (4 x M8x25 allen
head bolts, 4 x M8 nuts, 4 x M8
washers)

(A) Assemble the pulley, see
picture. (1x M6 collar nut)

10

Assembly: guide rail, guide rail strut, cross beam

B

6

5

C

(5) Place the guide rail on the
long legs, pressing the guide rail
down while the bolts are tighte­ned. (4 x M6x20 collar bolts, 4 x
M6 collar nuts)

Check that the angle
between the guide rail and

the long leg is 90°.

7

(6) Fit the strut to the inside (D)
of the guide rail flanges with the
oval hole up. (4 x M6x20 collar
bolts, 4 x M6 collar nuts)

(7) Fit the cross beam. In each
leg there are six holes. The
inner ones are used for the
standard M7 unit (C), while the
others are used when the M7 is
extended and an additional
cross beam is fitted on either
side. (6 x M6x20 collar bolts, 6 x
M6 square nuts)

11

Assembly: log side-rest

Assembly: log bed

(7) Fit the log side-rest. make

sure that the measuring scales
are both facing in torwards the
center of the mill so that
operator can read both scales
from the center position.(2 x
M6x20 bolts, 2 x M6 collar nuts)

7

(8) Place the plastic slide rail on
the log bed. Fit the longer (A)
scale against the plastic rail on
the right log bed and the shorter
(B) against the side of the left
log bed. Do not tighten the bolts
all the way. (2 x M6x30 allen
head bolts, 2 x M6 collar nuts)

(9) Fit the ratchet bar stop plate
under the lifting beam. (2 x
M6x25 allen head bolts)

12

8

A

C

11

B

12

8

10

9

D

(10) Fit the line pulleys. (1 x
M6x60 self-tapping bolt) Apply
some pressure while driving it
in.

(11) Fit the log support on the
lifting beam. As the bolts will be
hard to screw through the holes,
use an Allen wrench to pull the
log support down to the lifting
beam. After app. 20 hours of

use, these bolts will need to
be retightened. (4 x M8x30

self-tapping allen head bolts, 4 x
M8 collar nuts)
(C) Fit the bolt for extra support
(M8x16 allen head bolt, 1xM8
collar nut)

(12) Fit the rachet bar by
threading the adjustment bolt
(D) through the ratchet bar stop
plate and screwing on the nut.
Do not tighten. Place the bar in
the track of the lifting beam and
tighten the adjusting nut on the
bar. (1 x M10x40 bolt, 1 x M10
nut)

Assembly: saddle plate

(13) Thread the lifting line

through the hole in the lower
part of the saddle plate and
make the knot shown (A).

A

14

13

Assembly: rachet mechanism

15

16

B

Leave a 1 cm (3/8”) end
after the knot.

(14) Press the steel sleeves into
the holes in the plastic glides.
Place the plastic glides (B) on
each side of the lifting beam and
fit the saddle plate over these.
(4 x M6x40 collar bolts, 4 x M6
collar nuts)

B

(15) The ends of the ratchet
cam axle are different. Insert
the one that has the recess
nearest the tip through the lower
hole in the long leg.

(16) Thread the short end of the
spring through the scale
selector’s spring holder and slip
both over the cam axle inside
the long leg.
Now thread the axle through the
first flange of the sadle plate.
Thread the ratchet cam on in
front of the opening in the sadle
plate, placing an O-ring on both
sides. Turn the axle so that the
cam locking screw (M6x10)
lines up with the recess. Screw
the locking screw into the
recess.
Screw the cam axle handle
locking screw (M6x10) in the
other recess.

Use protective gloves for

the following steps (B): Pull

the long end of the spring aro­und to fasten it in the spring
holder on the scale selector
fitting.

13

Assembly: crank and lifting cable

17

A

(17) Thread the lifting line under
the outside pulley on the lifting
beam, straight up and around
the pulley on the cross beam
(A) and then down again to the
inner pulley on the lifting beam.

Fit the crank rod through the
upper hole in the long leg and
through the bushing on the
middle flange.
Place the lifting line in the
locking collar recess. Thread
the collar bushing with the line
and the other collar bushing, on
the crank rod.(collars facing out)
Push the crank rod through until
app. 1/8” extends beyond the
outer saddle plate bushing.
Screw the locking screw
(M6x8)on the locking collars into
the recesses on the crank rod.
Then tighten the locking screw
(M8x8) that’s holding the lifting
line.

Assembly: edge support

A

18

(18) Slide the edge support onto
the log bed.

(A) Attach crank handle to the
crank rod. Insert an allen
wrench into the end of the
threads on the handle and tight
it with an m8 locking nut.

14

Assembly: saw carriage

21

19

20

(19) Insert bolts through the
holes along the sides of both the
chain-saw bed (pylon) and the
spool holder plate. Turn the
square nuts a few times. (8x
M6x16 bolts, 8 x M6 square
nuts)

(20) Insert the square nuts into
the slide rail track, moving the
spool holder plate and the
chain-saw bed to opposite ends
of the slide rails. Tighten the
bolts.

(21) Thread the line spool over
the spool holder arm and tighten
the nut. (1 x M10 locking nut)

15

Assembly: chain guard

(22) Fit the chain guard on the

support and bolt. (2 x M6x40
collar bolts, 2 x M6 locking nuts)

22

Assembly: extender nuts

24

Remove the two bolts holding
the guide bar and remove the
guide bar cover.

(23) Remove the bark grips,
leaving the bolts and
retightening the nuts.

23

(24) Refit the guide bar cover,
replacing the guide bar bolts
with the two extender nuts. The
guide bar nuts will be used to
fasten the chain-saw to the
carriage.

Only CE-approved chain-

saws with two guide bar
nuts may be used with the M7
sawmill.

16

Assembly: chain-saw

26

25

(25) Fit the Logosol extender
nuts through the chain-saw
plate using the front hole. (For
some chain-saw models the
rear hole has to be used to

(27) Push the assembled
carriage onto the guide rail with
the guide bar facing the log
beds.

Check that the carriage

moves easily on the guide
rail. If not, loosen the eight bolts
holding the sliding rails, move
the carriage back and forth and
retighten the eight bolts. If this is
insufficient, check the plastic
slide rails for damage.

ensure that the saw cover will
not extend too far. However, this
is relatively unusual.) Screw the
chain-saw’s guide bar nuts onto
the Logosol extender nuts under
the plate and tighten.

(26) Fit the chain guard support
on the two arms of the chain­saw plate so that the chain
guard sits app. 4 cm (1 1/2”)
from the tip of the guide bar. (2 x
M6x40 bolts, 2 x M6 collar nuts)

27

17

Assembly: spiked log grip with guard

31

32

28

29

30

30

(28) Screw the handle with a
washer on the threaded rod for
the log grip carriage. (1 x M6
washer)

(29) Insert the bolts and screw
on square nuts in the same way
as when the chain-saw carriage
was assembled (see page 17).
(4 x M6x16 bolts, 4 x M6 square
nuts)

29

(30) Fit the sliding rails under
the plate so that the square nuts
fit into the slide rail tracks.

(31) Center the guard, log grip
and plastic spacer over the
holes in the plate. The spacer
should be turned so it extends
as far as possible behind the
grip. Thread the bolts through
the holes and tighten. (2 x
M6x40 bolts, 2 x M6 washers, 2
x M6 nuts)

(32) Thread the chain-saw feed
line holder bolt through the
spacer and fit on the plate. (1 x
M6x25 bolt, 1 x M6 nut)
The holder bolt can be fitted in
one of two holes depending on
whether a petrol or an electric
saw is being used. The picture
illustrates set-up for a petrol
saw. Make a loop on the feed
line and place it over the spacer.

18

Siting

Min. 0.5 m (1.6 ft)

M

7

The M7 WoodWorkers Mill

may not tilt more than 5 °

from the horizontal in any

direction.

The saw may tip over if

the tilt is greater. The unit

may not be operated

unless the feet are faste-

ned to the floor.

The carriage may slide

off the guide rail if the tilt

is greater.

While the goal is to have the M7
WoodWorkers Mill fully level,
any tilt, however slight, must not
be away from the operator as
this can cause the logs to slide
off or lie at an angle.

When setting up the M7
directly on the ground:

The surface must firm and

level enough that driving a
normal car on it would not be a
problem.

Fit a board under each pair

of legs using two M6 bolts
for each foot. The boards must
be of good quality, at least
50x150 mm (2”x 6”) and at least
2 m (6.5 ft) long. The boards

must extend at least 0.5 m
(1.5 ft) beyond the long legs.

When bolting the M7 to a

concrete floor, asphalt
surface or similar, rigid surface,
a rubber underlay should be
placed under each foot in order
to prevent vibration damage to
the sawmill. Use a reliable

fastening system between
the feet and the surface.

19

Adjustments – log bed

B

D

A

(A) Check that when the log bed
is cranked down, it moves
easily through the saddle plate
driven by its own weight. If this
is not the case:

- Stop the log bed in the position
that you judge to be the sticki­est. If it is equally hard in all
positions, place it in its upper­most position.

Lock it using the rachet
cam to prevent it from
falling down.

- Loosen the four bolts on the
saddle plate and place it straight
in relationship to the lifting
beam.

C

- Loosen the plastic slide rail on
the log bed (D) and adjust it so
that it is straight in relation to the
log bed track.

- Lubricate the sliding surfaces
and the T-track of the lifting
beam using silicon or Teflon
spray.

(B) Check the height of the log
bed. Set the rachet in the 1/4”
position. Place the setting block
on the log bed. Move the chain­saw guide bar to right over the
log bed. Move the log bed up to
the notch where the setting
block is nearest to the under­side of the guide bar.

(C) Use the bolt and inside nut
on the rachet bar to move the
log bed up until the setting block
touches the underside of the
guide bar. Should the
adjustment be insufficient or too
much, move the log bed up or
down a notch and adjust again.

Lock using the inside nut.

(D) To adjust the scale indicator,
loosen the two bolts holding it
and the plastic block on the log
bed. Set both indicators of the
scale to 2” in the position where
the setting block touches the
underside of the guide bar.

20

Adjustments –guide bar

A

The guide bar should be
parallel to the log bed. If this

is not so, the guide bar is
probably not straight. Remove
the chain from the guide bar
without removing the guide bar
and move the sawing unit over
the log bed.

Use protective gloves!

(A) Grasp the middle of the
guide bar with both hands as
shown and bend it carefully until
it is parallel to the log bed.
Check using the setting block.

B

(B) How straight the guide bar
mounts varies between chain­saws.

It should only be necessary to
adjust a guide bar once,
provided that it is not bent during
sawing.

If after turning the guide bar you
notice that you need to bend it
again in the same direction as
before, it may be that the guide
bar mount isn’t true. This can be
compensated for by placing one
or more adjustment pieces
between the aluminium sliding
rails and the chain-saw or
electric saw plate. Adjustment
pieces can be ordered from
Logosol, part. no. 4507-001-

1305.

21

Step-by-step sawing instructions

1.1 Roll the log onto the log

bed.

1.2 Fasten the log in place
using the edge support. Place
the edge support arms
backwards and lock the block in
place using the edge support

1

2

side.

1.3 Set the rachet cam on
either 1/4” or 1/8” increments
using the rachet handle. The
normal choice is the larger
measurement.

1.4 Raise the stock so that a
suitable slab size will be cut off.
Normally the top end of the log is
raised 1/4” or 1/2” (one or two
clicks) above the bottom end so
that the cut will parallel the grain.

1.5 Ram the spiked log grip
into the butt end of the log to
keep it from rotating. This should
be done prior to each cut.

For larger logs the log beds might
be set at 7 1/4” or 8 1/4”,
depending on whether a 1” or 2”
board is wanted.

2.3 Cut the slab and perhaps
one more board.

3.1 Rotate the cant 90° and fix
with the edge support arms. Set
the height so that a suitable slab
is sawn. Now lay the top end
somewhat higher than the bottom.

3.2 Raise both log beds the
same distance while retaining the
height differential. Saw out planks
and boards until app. 10 cm (4”)
remain. Do not forget to add 1/4”
to each desired board thickness
to compensate for the kerf.

4.1 Rotate the cant 180° and
place both log beds at the same
height. If a 1” and a 2” board are
to be sawed out at the end, place
the log beds at 3 1/4” (2+1+1/4).

22

3

4

5

1.6. Place the saw feed line on
the bolt with the spacer on the
log grip carriage (not with electric
feed).

1.7 Cut the slab off.

1.8 On larger logs it is

customary to raise the log bed to
cut off another, wane-edged
plank about 2 1/4” thick (nine
clicks) to create a 2” plank. Don’t
forget to knock out the log grip
before raising the log beds.

2.1 Make the saw cut and then
rotate the log 180°.

2.2 Should the log be small,
the block size might now be set
to 6”, for example. The log beds
would be at the same height.

4.2 Place the edge support
arms backwards and lock the
block in place using the edge
support side. Otherwise you may
saw into the arms.

4.3 Cut off the last slab.

4.4 Raise the log bed by 1 1/4”

and saw the 1” board. What you
have left is a 2” board.

5 Place the wane edged
boards on their short end. Lock
them in place with the edge
support arm and trim the wane.
As is usual, adjust the log bed
height for the fact that one edge is
still barked. When you turn the
boards so that the side down is
trimmed, set the log beds to the
same height.

Sawing tips

In the beginning it might serve
you well to make a drawing on
the top end of how you want to
piece the log. Use a thick
marker so that the line
corresponds to the saw kerf.

Remember that:

When the log rests on a bark
surface, the log bed at the
top end is set higher than the
one at the root end.

When a sawn surface faces
down, the log beds are set at
the same height.

Through sawing

At times it can be best to slice
the log entirely into wane-edged
boards. This way it is possible
to get a bit more from each log.
The price for the gain is that it
takes a bit more time because
of the need for after-trimming. If
fine carpentry wood is the aim, it
might be best to trim one side
before drying. The last trim can
be done when you know what
the board will be used for –
everything to allow maximum
use of the wood.
When you are going to slice a

log beds, preventing movement
between cuts and ensuring
even boards.
Turn the log when you approach
the centre.
Figure out the height where you
should start and then saw.
The example shown in the
drawing calls for the first cut
after the log is turned to be at 8
1/4”, calculated as follows:
1+1+1+1+1+2= 7. For each +
add 1/4” to compensate for the
kerf. The total is (5x 1/4) + 7 = 8
1/4”.
In this way the final cut will be
correct and you will have a
minimum of wastage.

Quarter sawing

Compensate for the kerf with
one click (1/4”) whenever the
cut is above the guide bar.

Do not compensate for the
kerf when the cut is below
the guide bar.

The last board may not be
thinner than 2”.

Make sure you do not saw
into the edge support spring
arms.

Many of us here at Logosol can
share long sawing experiences.
As a new Logosoloist, if you
have any questions call us.
We’ll be happy to provide you
useful tips.

log in this way it is best to saw
off a thin slab first and then turn
that side downwards. In this
way the log will rest on an even
surface on at least one of the

Quarter sawing provides you
with the finest material. You
obtain optimal grain direction in
all boards, something that is a
great advantage for carpentry
work and the like. The price is in
time, in difficulty and in that you
obtain several different width
boards. Do not quarter saw
small logs. Begin by halving
andquartering the log. When
sawing the boards out of the
quarters, you turn the log 90°
between each cut. Sometimes it
is best to cut from below as this
allows you to raise the log beds
to the same height throughout.

23

Material drying

Generally, once the wood is
sawn it must be dried.
It is possible to use undried
wood in some construction, but
only keeping in mind a 7%
shrinkage in width and height.
While most wood shrinks some

0.4% in length, this amount can
usually be ignored. In order to
avoid rot, you should not
enclose undried wood in a way
that makes it hard for air to
circulate. One further tip is not
to drive two nails into undried
wood next to each other as the
board will probably crack in the
middle when it dries out. Drive
one nail and wait with the
second until the wood has dried.
One example when you ought to
use undried wood is building log
structures. In such a situation, a
heavy wall is a plus, as is the
possibility that the logs still can
be shaped when they are pres­sed against each other.

In most cases, however, the
wood must be dried. If this is not
done, there is a danger it will be
damaged by dry or fungal rot.
The best time for outdoor drying
is in the spring. At that time the
relative humidity in the air is
comparably low meaning that
the wood will dry quicker.
Cut some supportive blocks
(5x5”) in the length that
corresponds to the width of your
pile. Place these at regular
intervals as shown below on
dry, level ground free of growth.
The spacing should not exceed
1 m (app. 1 yd) and should lie
level and in line with each other.
Cut spacers or drying sticks in
the same length as the
supportive blocks. They should
be the same thickness (1x1” or
1x2”) and dry. You can get
material for these by making an
extra cut when trimming your
boards.

Place your first row of boards
on the support logs, leaving
about an inch between them.
Then place a spacer on the
boards above each support log.
It is important to place the
spacers exactly over each other
to keep the boards from warping
or bending.
The higher you pile the boards,
the better pressure there is on
the lower boards. Place roofing
or some material over the top,
but leave the sides and ends
open. Put a weight of some sort
on top of the upper row to put
pressure on those planks as
well.
If the wood is to be used for fine
carpentry it ought to be stored in
a heated facility several weeks
before use or be dried in a kiln
or other kind of wood drier.

24

Trouble-shooting

Reasons for wrong
measurements on an
M7 sawmill.

A. Incorrect adjustment

or set-up.

B. Cutting equipment

misfunction.

C. Tensions in the

wood.

A. Checking the M7

1. Check that all four legs
stand firmly and that the feet do
not sink into the ground when a
heavy log is loaded.

2. Sight over the log beds
and cross beam to check that
the sawmill stands straight.
Check both loaded and
unloaded.

3. Use a square to check
very carefully that the guide rail
is at an exact 90° angle to the
long legs. Even a small devia­tion can lead to large
measurement errors.

4. Set the distance between
log bed and guide bar so that it
is exactly the same to both log
beds. Make sure the guide bar
and the log beds are fully
parallel. Use the setting block
included with the machine.

5. Check that the guide rail
is absolutely straight by sighting
along the guide rail or by running
a line over the guide rail and
using nails or something similar

as spacers between the line
and the guide rail.

6. Check that the guide bar
is straight in relation to the
sawing direction by placing a

1.5 m (5 ft) strip of wood on the
guide bar without the chain.
Sight across the strip to make
sure it is parallel to the guide
rail.
Even factory-new guide bar
mounts can be out of true. This
is discovered if the parallel
relation to the log bed changes
when the guide bar is turned. A
bent guide bar is most easily
straightened by being pressed
up or down while the saw is
mounted on the sawmill (see
page 21). An out of true mount
is corrected for by placing
washers between the carriage
plate and the slide rail.

7. The set-up of the M7 can
be checked by placing a board
with maximum length on the log
beds. First trim off a narrow
strip from one side of the board.
Then turn it, set both log beds to
the same height and remove a
similar strip. Now measure the
width of the board carefully. If
the board is not the same width
along its entire length it can
mean that the log beds are
incorrectly set or that the guide
rail is crooked. It is also possible
that the guide rail has been
depressed by the weight of the
log. When a heavy cutting unit is
used, this problem can even
occur if the support legs are not
on a rigid surface. If a chain­saw is used the same thing can
happen if you extend the guide
rail more than 0.5 m (1.5 ft)
without adding support legs.

B. Checking the

cutting equipment

The guide bar must not cut
upwards or downwards during
sawing. This is most obvious
when the guide bar leaves the
log. If the guide bar does not
simply float out of the log but
springs up or down, problems
can arise. In such cases there
can be something wrong with
the guide bar or the chain.

Reasons for misfunction in the
cutting equipment:

1. One frequent reason for
problems when using the M7 is
that the chain is dull (see page

26).

2. The chain may be
damaged on one side, such as
by metal objects in the log. The
chain may still cut, but pulls up
or down (see page 27).

3. The chain may have been
filed wrong. The cutters may be
filed less on one side than on
the other. To get a more even
result, try to maintain the same
working position when filing the
left and the right sides of the
chain. That individual cutters are
faulty or that some are missing,
such as after sawing through
nails, usually has very small
effect on the function.

4. When precision
diminishes after a period of
fault-free sawing, it is almost
always due to wear on the guide
bar (see page 27).

Continued on the page
following.

25

Tensions in the wood can
sometimes result in similar
symptoms as faults in the
cutting equipment.

C. Tensions in the

wood

The M7 sawmill can only saw
straight. If the wood grain twists
during sawing, precision will be
lost. Tension can cause large
variations in measurement.
Broad leaved trees have greater
tension than do evergreens, but
even the latter can have
problematic tensions. One
example is in trees that have
grown on sharp inclines. In such
cases a whole group of logs
can be hard to saw.

Tensions can also arise in
storage. If the bark and top
segment begin to dry, the whole
surface will begin to shrink. In
such a case, when one side is
trimmed, the log may bend
slightly.

It is easy to discover tension in
logs that leads to measurement
errors. Each time you pull the
saw back, you can read what is
happening in the log. As long as
the guide bar continues to lie
just above the newly sawn
surface, the log has not bent.
However, if a spaces show up
between the guide bar and the
sawn surface or if the guide bar
is pressed upwards, it is time to
plan how the next cut will go to
reduce the tensions.
When sawing from the top
towards the bottom, the wood
has a tendency to sink at the
ends pulled by its own weight.
This is especially true if there is
large root-end growth. If this is

true, then it would be best to
turn the log after passing
through the centre and saw the
rest of the material from the
other side.

Some tips for avoiding the
effects of wood tensions.

1. Cut wood with tension in
as short lengths as possible.

2. Work around the log,
sawing all sides in order.

3. Special arrangements
may be needed in order to get a
perfect measurement on the
last board of a log. One effective
way is to saw the last cuts
using a recently sawn board as
support.

Demands on precision

We are convinced that the M7
Wood Workers Mill provides as
good or better results as other
sawing methods. A large
number of users of the Logosol
sawmills have reported that they
have never had better wood
products than those they have
sawn themselves with their
Logosol mill.
However, it is natural that we
also meet customers who want
to improve on the precision. By
now we know that variations in
sawing results can have many
explanations. The choice of raw
material is vital. Cutting good
boards from short, sturdy logs
is considerably easier than
getting the same results with
thin, long ones. Tensions
caused by storage or place of
growth can cause problems.
Some tree types cause more
problems than others. The

reasons are many, including
how much time is available.
Sawyers with unlimited time
have a greater chance to
succeed than those whose time
is short.

The precision requirements also
vary. A result that is satisfactory
for someone sawing boards for
rustic fence posts may not be
good enough for someone
sawing boards to be used in
construction without being
planed.
If you have gone through the
various steps for adjusting the
M7 sawmill, checked the cutting
equipment and observed the
effects of tensions in the
wood,but still do not get the
sawing results you expect,
contact us at Logosol. We have
years of experience and can
always help you find solutions to
problems you may have.

Cutting equipment

The Logosol PMX chain pro­vides for rapid ripping with a
narrow kerf. But it is more
sensitive than normal chains.
Still, if you keep the cutting
equipment in trim, you will get
the right measurements, the
sawing will be quicker and the
cutting equipment will last
longer.

File before it slows down

You will sense that the chain is
loosing its edge by the fact that
the sawing slows down, the
guide bar gets hot and the feed
is harder. Stop sawing at once!
At this point it’s really too late to
file. Sawing with a dull chain
exposes the sawing equipment
to great wear and tear. You

26

must learn to file before the
chain gets dull.

File comfortably

Both hand and electrical chain
filing can give good results. The
electrical is faster and simpler.
For hand filing, we recommend
a double file with a built-in filing
gauge. (Pferd 4 mm, part. no.
9999-000-0400).
It is much easier to sharpen the
chain if you have a proper work
place. Fasten the guide bar in a
screw vice or a saw clamp.
Best is to build a table next to
the sawmill for filing and other
chain-saw maintenance. If you
have an electric saw, you will
need a file block (part. no. 9999­000-0620) to hold the chain
during filing.
Avoid chain breaks
If you saw too long with a dull
chain, it can break under the
cutter where the material is
worn.
If, on the other hand, a drive link
breaks the reason can be that
the chain and the sprocket are
not matched. For best results
you should alternate five chains
on one sprocket. When the
chains are worn out, replace the
entire set, including the
sprocket. A new chain placed
on a worn down sprocket can
break during the first few minu­tes.
It is not good to drive a normal
3/8” chain and a PMX chain with
the same sprocket.

The guide bar can pull
askew

If the chain has been damaged
on one side or filed unevenly,
the guide bar can steer askew.
The guide bar will be pressed
up or down or jumps when it

leaves the log. This way the
chain wears more on one bar
rail and if you continue to saw,
the guide bar will be worn
lopsidedly. Even if you change
the chain, a worn down guide
bar can steer wrong and the
new chain can be worn down.
A lopsided guide bar can be
fixed. File the bar rails until they
are even, using a tool like a UKF
file (part. no. 9999-000-0450).
Another, more common reason
that the guide bar pulls askew is
that it is so worn out that the
drive link bottoms in the bar
groove and the chain looses its
support from the guide bar
walls. This can be seen on the
chain in that the tip of the drive
link becomes worn.

The best chain oil

In order for the chain oil to work
well it must be viscous and
thready. When you place a drop
between the thumb and the
index finger and then open
them, long threads should form.

Edge in the chromium layer

The cutter on a chain-saw chain
is covered with a very thin
chromium layer, giving a very
sharp and durable edge.
As long as the edge is in the
chromium layer, your chain will
have perfect sharpness.
However, after between 50 and
100 cuts with the M7, the edge
in the chromium layer will be
worn down. At that point it is
time to file the chain. If you are
really sensitive, you will notice
that the chain slows up, the
guide bar heats up and the feed
pressure must be increased. If
you file as soon as you sense
that the chain is no longer
perfectly sharp, you will need

only a few, light pulls with the
file.
If you always file before the
chain becomes dull, wear on
the guide bar and chain will be
minimal.
However, if you make 5-10 cuts
after the edge has left the
chromium layer, the chain will
be so dull it will be difficult to
saw. The sawing speed will be
low and the feed pressure high.
The guide bar and chain will
easily overheat. It is still
possible to saw, but the
equipment will wear out very
quickly.
When you file a chain, there is a
real danger that you won’t reach
the chromium layer. The chain
may feel sharp, but because it
isn’t in the chromium layer, it will
become dull again very quickly.
If you don’t file in time, you will
have to remove a lot of the
cutter to get it sharp. The
working life of the chain will be
short. And if a lot of the sawing
is done with a dull chain, you will
need a high feed pressure, with
consequent rapid guide bar
wear and a high risk for chain
breaks.
In conclusion, file before the
chain is dull so that you avoid
getting into a vicious circle
where the wear on the sawing
equipment increases and the
sawing result goes down.

Regular chain sharpening
is especially important if
you are sawing wood that
is aggressive to the chain,
such as dry material, hard
wood or wood with sand or
earth in the bark.

27

Accessories

Logosol offers a great range of extensions, special tools and other accessories for the M7 Wood
Workers Mill. Simple extensions can be bought in 0.5 lengths (1.6 ft). It is also possible to extend the
Wood Workers mill to the M7Logosol Sawmill.

The product catalog is available at no cost. Just order it.

Cutting equipment Part number

Guide bar - 16” (40 cm), 1.3 picco 3003-000-6313
Ripping chain for guide bar above, 60 DL 3961-000-0060
Guide bar - 25” (63 cm), 1.3 picco 3003-000-5531
Ripping chain for guide bar above, 84 DL 3961-000-0084
To Stihl 064 / 066:
Chain drive sprocket, picco 1122-640-2006
To E 5000:
Star drive, picco 1207-642-1310

Filing equipment

File block to hold the chain steady while filing 9999-000-0620
Pferd file gauge, files cutter and drive link together 9999-000-0400
4 mm round file for Pferd file gauge 9999-000-0401

Extensions

End extension 0.5 m (1.6 ft) 4510-720-6602
M7 Sawmill upgade kit (9 ft) 4517-000-1020

Aids

Measuring rod to check saw height setting 4507-001-1300
Board shoe to fasten a 2x5” in the knee joint 4507-001-1304
Log steps to load logs over 20” (50 cm), 2 items 4507-001-1302
Edge support with spring-loaded arm 4507-001-1025
Loading ramp to simplify control of saw on an M7 9999-000-0920
Accessory for rounding logs, saws 16 sides 9999-000-1100
Adjustable log support, a universal tool 4510-720-6202
Log roller, to move logs sideways 9999-000-1420
Hearing protection with face shield 0000-884-0503
Stainless steel knife, Logosol 9922-140-0000
Folding rule 2 m, Logosol 9922-130-0000
Cap, Logosol 9922-120-0000

Electrical sawing unit

E 5000, high capacity 3-phase saw, incl. support leg 9999-011-0003
Feed for E 5000, stepless in both directions 6600-000-1000

Moulders

Electrical log molder, 3-phase 7600-000-0230
Logosol SH230 planer, size and profile planing 7200-000-0230
Logosol PH 260 4-side planer moulder 7502-000-0260

28

Article list

43

53

50, 51

17

35-41

1

18

2

4

9

44-47,52

48, 49

54, 55

10

7

3

This list includes items that are not
part of the standard construction.

The items are ordered one at a time.
The number listed in the table

5

6

12-14

indicates the number usually
included.

24

28
29
32

16

15

42

27

30
31

33

No. Article number # Description

1. 4507-001-1000 2 Guide rail, 2.75 m (9 ft)

2. 4507-001-1015 2 Guide railstrut

3. 4517-001-1009 1 Cross beam

4. 4507-001-1030 2 Long leg

5. 4507-001-1035 2 Short leg

6. 4507-001-1040 4 Foot

7. 4507-001-1200 2 Horizontal beam

8. 4507-001-1045 2 Knee fitting

9. 4507-001-1050 2 Log bed

10. 4507-001-1025 2 Edge support

11. 4510-723-3900 6 Line pulley

12. 4507-001-1190 2 Setting block for log bed

13. 4507-001-1165 2 Short indicator

14. 4507-001-1170 2 Long indicator

15. 4507-001-1055 2 Rachet Cam Nuetral plate

16. 4507-001-1060 2 Angle fitting

17. 4507-001-1075 2 Log support

18. 4507-001-1070 4 Scale

19. 4507-001-1065 2 Lifting beam

20. 4507-001-1080 2 Lifting line, 2.05 m (6’9”)

21. 4507-001-1085 2 Saddle Plate, compl.

22. 4507-001-1090 4 Plastic slide rail, plate clamp

23. 4507-001-1095 8 Spacer

24. 4507-001-1101 2 Handle crank rod

25. 4507-001-1105 2 Stop ring, track

26. 4507-001-1106 2 Stop ring

27. 4507-001-1150 2 Rachet Axle

28. 4507-001-1115 2 Step chooser

29. 4507-001-1120 2 Turn spring

30. 4507-001-1125 2 Rachet Cam

31. 4507-001-1130 4 O-ring

32. 4507-001-1020 2 Rachet handle

33. 4507-001-1185 2 Rachet bar stop plate

34. 4507-001-1205 2 Line pulley holder

35. 4507-001-7600 1 Log grip, compl.

36. 4510-723-2905 2 Plastic slide rail, log grip *

37. 4510-723-2511 1 Spacer *

38. 4510-723-4806 1 Log grip guard *

39. 4510-723-5100 1 Threaded rod *

40. 4510-723-4902 1 Adjustable handle, log grip *

41. 4510-723-4403 1 Log grip spikes 9-points *

42. 4507-001-1110 2 Rachet axle

43. 6600-000-1100 1 Carriage, complete

44. 4510-723-2002 1 Chain-saw feed line *

45. 4510-723-6010 1 Electric saw feed line *

46. 6600-001-2121 1 Line for electric feed 7mm*

47. 4510-723-3402 1 Line spool *

48. 9999-000-1030 2 Carriage slide rail, complete *

49. 4510-723-2904 2 Plastic slide rail, carriage *

50. 4510-723-4809 1 Chain guard *

51. 4510-720-3000 1 Chain guard mount *

52. 4510-720-2800 1 Spool holder *

53. 4510-720-2900 1 Pylon carriage plate *

54. 4510-723-3402 2 Logosol chainsaw nut

55. 4507-001-1305 2 Adjusting plate 0.5 mm *

* Articles that are part of another article number, but can be ordered as a spare part or accessory.

8

19

21-26

20

34

11

29

EU Declaration

Product: Logosol M7 portable sawmill
Manufacturer: Logosol KB, Industrigatan 13

SE-871 53 Härnösand

Tel. [phone]
The company hereby certifies that the Logosol M7 portable sawmill is manufactured in accord
with the specifications in Machine Directive 89/392/EEC, as amended, and in accord with the
following harmonised standard: EN 292.
The M7 portable sawmill may only be used in combination with Logosol’s sawing units E 5000, E
3000 and BS 320 or with a chain-saw that satisfies the specifications in Machine Directive 89/
392/EEC, as amended, and is fitted with two guide bar nuts for fastening to the carriage. In
combination with an electric saw unit, the M7 portable sawmill satisfies the specifications in EMC
Directive 89/336/EEC, as amended, and the low-tension directive 73/23/EEG.

Härnösand 950101

Bengt-Olov Byström, Managing Director