NOTE: Your boat may have a pre-existing wiring channel or
conduit that you can use for the transducer cable.
1. Unplug the other end of the transducer cable from the
control head. Make sure that the cable is long enough to
accommodate the planned route by running the cable over the
transom.
CAUTION! Do not cut or shorten the transducer cable, and try not
to damage the cable insulation. Route the cable as far as possible
from any VHF radio antenna cables or tachometer cables to reduce
the possibility of interference. If the cable is too short, extension
cables are available to extend the transducer cable up to a total
of 50' (15 m). For assistance, contact the Customer Resource
Center at www.humminbird.com or call 1-800-633-1468 for more
information.
NOTE: Since the transducer may need to pivot up to 90 degrees in
the bracket if it strikes an object, make sure there is sufficient cable
slack to accommodate this motion. It is best to route the cable to
the side of the transducer so the cable will not be damaged by the
rotation of the transducer.
2. If you will be routing the cable through a hole in the transom,
drill a
⁵⁄₈
" diameter (16 mm) hole above the waterline (Figure
23). Route the cable through this hole, then fill the hole with
marine-grade silicone sealant and proceed to the next step
immediately.
3. Place the escutcheon plate over the cable hole and use it as a
guide to mark the two escutcheon plate mounting holes.
Remove the plate, drill two
⁹⁄₆₄
” (3.6 mm) holes, then fill both
holes with marine-grade silicone sealant. Place the escutcheon
plate over the cable hole and attach with two #8 x
⁵⁄₈
" (16 mm)
wood screws.
4. Route and secure the cable by attaching the cable clamp to the
transom; drill one
⁹⁄₆₄
" dia. (3.5 mm) x
⁵⁄₈
" deep (16 mm) hole,
then fill hole with marine-grade silicone sealant, then attach
the cable clamp using a #8 x
⁵⁄₈
" (16 mm) screw.
5. Plug the other end of the transducer cable back into the
control head connection holder.
Assemble the Transducer
1. Attach the pivot to the transducer body as shown in Figure 18,
using the two
¹⁄₄
"-20 x
⁵⁄₈
" (16 mm) machine screws, toothed
washers, and square nuts. The toothed washers must fit on the
inside of the transducer ears, between the pivot and the ears. The
square nuts will be prevented from rotating by the pocket in the
back of the pivot. An Allen wrench is provided which fits all the
¹⁄₄
"-20 screws, but do not fully tighten the screws at this time.
Mount the Transducer Assembly to the Transom
1. Slide the assembled transducer into the metal bracket from the
bottom, aligning the large hole at the top of the bracket with the
hole in the pivot as shown in Figure 19.
2. Insert the headed pin through the pivot holes in the bracket
and pivot. The headed pin can be inserted from either side of
the bracket.
3. Place the nylon washer over the opposite end of the headed pin.
Place the stainless washer over the
¹⁄₄
"-20 x
⁵⁄₈
" (0.016 mm)
screw threads, then insert into the opposite end of the headed
pin and finger tighten only. The screw has a thread locking
compound on the threads to prevent loosening, and should not
be fully tightened until all adjustments are made.
NOTE: The running position of the transducer is now
completely adjustable. Subsequent adjustment may be
necessary to tweak the installation after high speed testing.
The metal bracket allows height and tilt adjustment, the pivot
screws allow angle adjustment.
Adjust the Running Position of the Transducer
The transducer mounting bracket allows height and tilt adjustment,
while the pivot bolt allows angular adjustment. These adjustments
will help reduce cavitation (Figures 20 and 21). Initially, adjust the
transducer as described in the following paragraphs. Further
5.
4.
3.
3. Mix an ample quantity of two-part slow cure epoxy slowly and
thoroughly. Avoid trapping air bubbles.
4. Coat the face of the transducer and the inside of the hull with
epoxy (Figure 26).
5. Press the transducer into place with a slight twisting motion
to purge any trapped air from underneath, keeping the
pointed end of the transducer body pointed forward, towards
the bow (Figures 24 and 27).
NOTE: Proper operation requires the pointed end of the transducer body to face towards the bow.
6. Weight the transducer so that it will not move while the epoxy is curing.
NOTE: When the epoxy cures, no water is necessary inside the hull.
7. If you unplugged the transducer cable at the beginning of this procedure, plug it back into the
control head.
NOTE: Neither water, spilled gasoline, nor oil will affect the performance of the transducer.
TROLLING MOTOR TRANSDUCER INSTALLATION
Several styles of the transducer are compatible with trolling motor
mounting. (Figure 28). If you have a trolling motor bracket, refer to
the separate installation instructions that are included with the
bracket.
NOTE: After trolling motor transducer installation, please perform
the final testing and then finalize the installation (see Test and
Finish the Installation).
TROLLING MOTOR TRANSDUCER OPTIONS
If you don’t have a trolling motor transducer, there are several options:
• You may purchase a Trolling Motor Adapter kit that will allow you to mount the transducer on
the trolling motor.
• You may also exchange your NEW and UNASSEMBLED transducer (with mounting hardware
included) for a trolling motor transducer.
There are also several transducer switches available that support the following configurations:
• Two control heads with one transducer or two transducers with one Control Head.
adjustment may be necessary to refine the installation after highspeed testing.
1. First, adjust the pivot angle of the transducer body, so it is
parallel with the length of the hull of the boat.
2. Fully tighten the two pivot screws, using the supplied Allen
wrench. Access to the pivot screws is provided by the lower
holes in the side of the mounting bracket. It may be
necessary to re-tighten the pivot bolt after initial use as the
plastic may still be conforming to the pressure from the lock
washers (Figure 22).
3. Adjust the height of the assembly so the face of the
transducer is
¹₈
” (3 mm) to
¹₄
” (6 mm) beneath the bottom
of the transom, and fully tighten the three mounting screws
(Figure 22).
4. In order to gain access to the mounting screws, the
transducer assembly must be pivoted up in the bracket as
shown. Be careful not to alter the running angle as some
force is necessary to pivot the assembly (Figure 22).
5. If access to the top mounting hole is not possible due to the
selected height of the transducer, fully tighten the two
lower screws, then simply remove the headed pivot pin and
the transducer assembly, and tighten the top screw, then
reassemble.
6. Confirm that the pivot angle has not changed and that all
mounting screws are fully tightened.
Route the Transducer Cable
The transducer cable has a low profile connector that must be routed
to the point where the control head is mounted. There are several
ways to route the transducer cable to the area where the control
head will be installed. The most common procedure routes the cable
through the transom into the boat.
6.
You are now ready to install the transducer. Find the section that
refers to your transducer type.
TRANSOM TRANSDUCER
INSTALLATION
Determine Transducer Mounting Location
NOTE: If transom mounting is not possible because of a
stepped hull or cavitation noise, and you have a single layer
fiberglass hull, In-hull installation is an option. See Inside the
Hull Transducer Installation for more information.
1. First, determine the best location on the transom to install the
transducer. Consider the following to find the best location:
• It is very important to locate the transducer in an area which is
relatively free of turbulent water. As a boat moves through the
water, turbulence is generated by the weight of the boat, and the
thrust of the propeller(s) - either clockwise or counter-clockwise.
This turbulent water is normally confined to areas immediately
aft of ribs, strakes or rows of rivets on the bottom of the boat, and
in the immediate area of the propeller(s) (Figure 14). Clockwise
propellers create more turbulence on the port side. On outboard
or inboard/outboard boats, it is best to locate the transducer at
least 15" (380 mm) to the side of the propeller(s).
• The best way to locate turbulence-free water is to view the transom
while the boat is moving. This method is recommended if
maximum high-speed operation is a high priority. If this is not
possible, select a location on the transom where the hull forward of
this location is smooth, flat and free of protrusions or ribs.
• The hydrodynamic shape of your transducer allows it to point
straight down without deadrise adjustment (Figure 15) as long
as the deadrise does not exceed 15 degrees. If the deadrise is
greater than about 15 degrees it will be necessary to angle the
transducer slightly. While this does not significantly degrade
performance, you must keep in mind that the area you are
viewing on the control head screen may be somewhat to one
side of the boat, not directly in the center.
1.
top of the mounting bracket (Figure 7). Using needle-nose
pliers, break out the tabs on the rear of the mounting base
(Figure 8). Place the Hole Cover over the mounting surface
hole, then use it to mark the position of the two mounting
screws. Remove the Hole Cover, drill the two mounting holes
using a
⁹⁄₆₄
" (3.5 mm) bit, fill them with marine-grade silicone,
then replace the Hole Cover and insert the #8 Phillips
countersink wood screws. Hand-tighten only.
2. Place the mounting bracket on the mounting surface aligned
with the drilled holes and fill the mounting holes with marine
grade silicone. Insert the four #8 Phillips countersink wood
screws into the mounting holes. Hand-tighten only.
Assembling the Connector Holder
1. Insert both the power and the transducer cable plugs into the
connector holder. The cable plugs are labeled, and there are
corresponding labels on the connector holder (Figure 9). The
slots for the plugs are keyed to prevent reverse installation,
and insertion should be easy - do not force plugs.
2. Carefully pull the excess cable from beneath the mounting
surface so that the connector holder aligns with the mounting
holes on the front of the mounting bracket (Figure 10).
3. Snap the support plate onto the rear of the connector holder
(Figure 11).
4. Insert the connector holder into place and fasten it to the
mounting bracket using the two #6-32 x
³⁄₄
" (19 mm) screws
(Figure 12). Hand-tighten only.
5. Slide the control head onto the mounting bracket until it is
fully seated. To remove the unit, grasp the unit with both
hands, then firmly press the latch on the rear of the unit and
lift (Figure 13).
NOTE: This latch is heavy-duty to withstand marine use, and
significant force must be applied.
5.
NOTE: Make sure that the power cable is not connected to
the control head at the beginning of this procedure.
1a. If a fuse terminal is available, use crimp-on type electrical
connectors (not included) that match the terminal on the fuse
panel. Attach the black wire to ground (-), and the red wire to
positive (+) 12 VDC power (Figure 3).
1b. If you need to wire the control head directly to a battery, obtain
and install an inline fuse holder and a 1 to 3 amp fuse (not
included) for the protection of the unit (Figure 4). Humminbird
is not responsible for over-voltage or over-current failures.
NOTE: In order to minimize the potential for interference
with other marine electronics, a separate power source (such
as a second battery) may be necessary.
Drill the Mounting Bracket Mounting Holes
1. Set the control head mounting bracket in place on the
mounting surface. Mark the four mounting screw locations
with a pencil or punch.
2. Set the mounting bracket aside, and drill the four mounting
screw holes using a
⁹⁄₆₄
" (3.5 mm) bit (Figure 5).
Route the Cables Through the Mounting Bracket
1a. If the cables must pass through a hole directly beneath the
mounting bracket, mark and drill an additional 1" (25 mm)
hole centered between the four mounting holes (Figure 5).
Route the cables through the grommet, then press the
grommet in place around the cables and into the 1"(25 mm)
hole. Pass the cables out of the top of the mounting bracket
(Figure 6).
1b. If the cables cannot be routed directly beneath the mounting
bracket, mark and drill a 1" (25 mm) hole that will allow you to
run the cables close to the bracket. Pass the cables through the
1" (25 mm) hole, through the mounting base, and out of the
4.
3.
CONTROL HEAD INSTALLATION
Determine Where to Mount
Begin the installation by determining where to mount the control head. Consider the following to
determine the best location:
• To check the location planned for the control head, test run the cables for power, transducer and
Temp/Speed accessory (if applicable). See the installation section for your transducer type in
order to plan the location of the transducer.
• There are two ways to route the cables to the unit: through a
hole in the mounting surface underneath the mounting
bracket, or from a hole outside the mounting bracket. Routing
the cables under the mounting bracket provides maximum
weather protection; this may not be feasible, however, if the
area under the control head is inaccessible. In this case, route
the cables through a hole at another location and cover with
the supplied hole cover.
• The mounting surface should be stable enough to protect the
control head from excessive wave shock and vibration, and
should provide visibility while in operation.
• The mounting area should allow sufficient room for the unit to
pivot and swivel freely, and for easy removal and installation
(Figures 1 and 2).
Connect the Power Cable to the Boat
A 6' (2 m) long power cable is included to supply power to the control
head. You may shorten or lengthen the cable using 18 gauge multistranded copper wire.
CAUTION: Some boats have 24 or 36 Volt electric systems, but the
control head MUST be connected to a 12 VDC power supply.
The control head power cable can be connected to the electrical
system of the boat at two places: a fuse panel usually located near
the console, or directly to the battery.
2.
1.
There are three basic installation tasks that you must perform for the Humminbird Fishing System:
• Installing the Humminbird control head
• Installing the transducer
• Testing the complete installation and locking the transducer position.
The transducer can either be installed inside the hull, on the transom of the boat, or onto a trolling
motor, depending on your transducer type. You will want to install the included Temperature/Speed
accessory, using the separate installation instructions included with the accessory.
NOTE: If the included transducer will not work for your application, you may exchange it, NEW
and UNASSEMBLED, with mounting hardware included, for a transducer appropriate for your
application - often at very little or no charge depending on the transducer. Call the
Humminbird Customer Resource Center (1-800-633-1468) for details and pricing, or visit
www.humminbird.com, Product Support/Transducer Exchange for more information.
NOTE: Due to the wide variety of hulls, only general instructions are presented in this installation
guide. Each boat hull represents a unique set of requirements that should be evaluated prior to
installation. In addition to the parts supplied, you will need a powered hand drill with various bits,
Phillips and flat-head screwdrivers, a ruler or measuring tape, pen or pencil, and marine-grade
silicone sealant.
NOTE: Please read all instructions carefully and completely before beginning the installation
process.
NOTE: When drilling holes in fiberglass hulls, it is best to start with a smaller bit and use
progressively larger drill bits to reduce the chance of chipping or flaking the outer coating.
• On boats with stepped hulls, it may be possible to mount the
transducer on the step. Do not mount the transducer on
the transom behind a step to avoid popping the transducer
out of the water at higher speeds; the transducer must
remain in the water for the control head to maintain the
sonar signal (Figure 16).
• If the transom is behind the propeller(s), it may be impossible
to find an area clear from turbulence, and a different
mounting technique or transducer type should be considered
(see Inside the Hull Transducer Installation).
Mounting the Bracket
1. Remove the transducer mounting template from this sheet.
2. Hold the template on the transom of the boat in the location
where the transducer will be installed. Align the template
vertically, making sure that the lower edge of the transom on
either side of the template falls within the horizontal lines on
the template. If not, tilt the template slightly so that the lower
edge of the transom on both sides of the template falls within
the allowable range. (Figure 17)
3. Using a pencil or punch, mark the three mounting holes on the
transom. Do not mark or drill any other holes at this time.
4. Using a
⁵⁄₃₂
" (4.0 mm) bit, drill the three holes to a depth of
approximately 1" (25 mm). On fiberglass hulls, it is best to use
progressively larger drill bits to reduce the chance of chipping
or flaking the outer coating. Use a marine-grade silicone
sealant to fill the drilled holes.
5. Align the metal mounting bracket with the mounting holes.
The center slot should be above the two outer slots. (This
bracket and all other hardware supplied is top quality
stainless steel for maximum strength and corrosion
protection.) Insert the three 1” (25 mm) flat head wood
screws into the drilled holes, but do not completely tighten.
(Figure 17)
2.
HUMMINBIRD INSTALLATION GUIDE
531340-1_A
Final Testing
After transom transducer installation, please perform the final testing and then finalize the installation
(see Test and Finish the Installation).
INSIDE THE HULL TRANSDUCER INSTALLATION
In-hull mounting generally produces good results in single thickness fiberglass-hulled boats.
Humminbird cannot guarantee depth performance when transmitting and receiving through the hull
of the boat, since some signal loss occurs. The amount of loss depends on hull construction and
thickness, as well as the installation position and process.
This installation requires slow-cure two-part epoxy. Do not use silicone or any other soft adhesive to
install the transducer, as this material reduces the sensitivity of the unit. Do not use five-minute epoxy,
as it has a tendency to cure before all the air bubbles can be purged, thus reducing signal strength.
NOTE: In-hull mounting requires an installed and operational control head.
Determine the Transducer Mounting Location
Decide where to install the transducer on the inside of the hull.
Consider the following to find the best location:
• Observe the outside of the boat hull to find the areas that are
mostly free from turbulent water. Avoid ribs, strakes and other
protrusions, as these create turbulence (Figure 14).
• As a general rule, the faster the boat can travel, the further aft
and closer to the centerline of the hull the transducer has to be
located in order to remain in contact with the water at high
speeds (Figure 25).
Trial Installation
You will not be able to adjust the mounting after an inside the hull
transducer is installed. It is best, therefore, to perform a trial
installation first that includes running the boat at various speeds, in
order to determine the best mounting area before permanently
mounting the transducer.
2.
1.
7.
1. Plug the transducer into the control head, then power up the control head. When the control
head detects a functioning transducer, it will automatically enter Normal operating mode.
2. View the sonar signal at its best by holding the transducer over the side, immersed in the water,
so that it is pointing straight down over a known flat bottom. Use the display to benchmark
against the sonar signal that will be detected once the transducer is placed in the hull.
3. Place the transducer body face down at the identified mounting location inside the hull, with the
pointed end towards the bow (Figure 24).
4. Fill the hull with enough water to submerge the transducer body. Use a sand-filled bag or other
heavy object to hold the transducer in position. The transducer cannot transmit through air, and
the water purges any air from between the transducer and the hull, and fills any voids in the
coarse fibergalss surface.
5. View the sonar signal on the display and compare against what was observed in Step 2, making
sure that the boat is in the same location as it was during your observations in Step 2. If the
results are comparable, move on to Step 6. Otherwise, locate a new position in the hull and
repeat Steps 3 through 5.
6. Run the boat at various speeds and water depths while observing the screen on the control head.
If depth performance is required, test the transducer in water at the desired depth. If the
performance is acceptable, move on to Step 7. If the performance is not acceptable, repeat Steps
3 through 6.
7. Once you have determined the best mounting location using the above steps, mark the position
of the transducer.
Route the Cable
1. Once the mounting location is determined and you have marked the position of the transducer,
route the cable from the transducer to the control head.
Permanently Mount the Transducer
1. Make sure the position of the transducer is marked.
2. Remove the water from inside the hull and thoroughly dry the
mounting surface. If the surface is excessively rough, it may be
necessary to sand the area to provide a smooth mounting
surface.
4.
3.
WARNING: Disassembly and repair of this electronic unit should only be performed by authorized
service personnel. Any modification of the serial number or attempt to repair the original
equipment or accessories by unauthorized individuals will void the warranty. Handling and/or
opening this unit may result in exposure to lead, in the form of solder.
WARNING: This product contains lead, a chemical known to the State of California to cause
cancer and birth defects and other reproductive harm.
WARNING! Do not touch an active transducer during operation, as this may cause physical
discomfort and may result in personal injury in the form of tissue damage. Handle the transducer
only when the power to the control head is off.
NOTE: Call the Humminbird Customer Resource Center (1-800-633-1468) for details and pricing, or
visit www.humminbird.com for more information.
TEST AND FINISH THE INSTALLATION
When you have installed both the control head and either the transom or the trolling motor
transducer, and have routed all the cables, you must perform a final test before locking the
transducer in place. Testing should be performed with the boat in the water, although you can
initially confirm basic operation with the boat out of the water.
NOTE: If you have installed an in-hull mount transducer, this procedure does not apply, as the
transducer is already locked in place.
1. Press POWER once to turn the control head on. There will be an audible chirp when the
button is pressed correctly. If the unit does not power-up, make sure that the Connector
Holder is fully seated in the receptacle and that power is available.
2. If all connections are correct and power is available, the Humminbird control head will enter
Normal operation. If no transducer is detected (or one is not connected), the unit will go into
Simulator mode and will indicate this by displaying the word Simulator on the control head
display.
NOTE: The transducer must be submerged in water for reliable transducer detection.
3. If the bottom is visible on-screen with a digital depth readout, the unit is working properly.
Make sure that the boat is in water greater than 2' but less than the depth capability of the unit,
and that the transducer is fully submerged, since the sonar signal cannot pass through air.
4. If the unit is working properly, gradually increase the boat speed to test high-speed
performance. If the unit functions well at low speeds but begins to skip or miss the bottom
at higher speeds, the transducer requires adjustment. Angling the rear of the transducer
downward and/or lowering the transducer farther into the water will help achieve depth
readings at high speeds.
NOTE: It is often necessary to make several incremental transducer adjustments before
optimum high speed performance is achieved. Due to the wide variety of boat hulls, however,
it is not always possible to obtain high speed depth readings.
Once you have reached a consistently good sonar signal at the desired speeds, you are ready to lock
down the transducer settings.
5. Mark the transducer bracket location on the transom with a pencil, then pop up the bracket
to reveal the mounting screws. Tighten the stainless steel mounting brackets screws to
secure in place. Hand-tighten only.
Figure 2
Figure 1