Honda Insight 2000 1.0L Hybrid, Insight 2000 L3 1.0L Workshop Manual

honda :: Honda Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

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Alarm/Immobilizer Control Unit: Locations

Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

44. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory)

50. Right Side of Steering Column

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Alarm/Immobilizer Control Unit: Diagram Information and Instructions

Terminal Numbering System
Terminal Numbering System

The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (orlooking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered,even if they have no wire terminals in them.

NOTE:

Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four endterminals are molded into the corners of the connector face.

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity/terminal shown below is #6.

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

Wire Color Abbreviations

Wires

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

Connectors - "C"

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

Splices

Components

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

Ground - "G"

Terminals - "T"

Shielding

Switches

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

Fuses

Diodes

How to Identify Wiring Color-Coded Insulation

Wire Color

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

Wire Color Coding

Distinct Of Circuit By Wire Base Color

All wires have color-coded insulation.Wires belonging to a system's main harness will have a single color. Wires belonging to a system's sub-circuits will have a colored stripe. Striped wiresuse the codes found in the chart to show wire size and colors.
Abbreviations are used to indicate wire color within a circuit diagram.

Wire Color Abbreviations

The following abbreviations are used to identify wire colors in the circuit schematics:

WHT................................... White

YEL................................... Yellow

BLK................................... Black

BLU................................... Blue

GRN................................... Green

RED................................... Red

ORN................................... Orange

PNK................................... Pink

BRN................................... Brown

GRY................................... Gray

PUR................................... Purple

LT BLU................................... Light Blue

LT GRN................................... Light Green

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

The wire insulation has one color or one color with another color stripe. The second color is the stripe.

How to Identify Connector Terminals

How to Identify Connector Terminals

Cavity Numbering System

The cavities (and wire terminals) in each connector are numbered starting from the upper left, looking at the male terminals from the terminal side (orlooking at the female terminals from the wire side. Both views are in the same direction so the numbers are the same.) All actual cavities are numbered,even if they have no wire terminals in them.

NOTE:

Data Link Connector (DLC) terminals are numbered according to SAE standard J1962, not the Honda standard. The numbers of the four endterminals are molded into the corners of the connector face.

The connector cavity number is listed next to each terminal on the circuit schematic. The cavity / terminal shown is # 6.

Circuit Schematics

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

Circuit Schematics

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Each schematic represents one circuit. A circuit's wires and components are arranged to show current flow from power at the top of the diagram toground at the bottom.

Shared Circuits

Other circuits may share power or ground terminals or wiring with the circuit shown. A wire that connects one circuit to another for example is cut shortand has an arrowhead at the end of it pointing in the direction of current flow. Next to the arrowhead is the name of the circuit or component whichshares that wiring. To quickly check shared wiring check the operation of a component it serves. If that component works you know the shared wiring isOK.

Connectors

All in-line and junction connectors are numbered (C725, C416 etc.). Component connectors are not numbered but are identified either by the name of thecomponent if the component only has one connector or by a capital letter (A, B, C etc.) if the component has more than one connector.

Below most connector numbers and component names are PHOTO and VIEW numbers. The PHOTO number refers to a photo at Shortcuts to PopularInformation/Locations that shows the connector's location on the car. The VIEW number refers to an connector view at Shortcuts to PopularInformation/Connector Views that shows the connector terminals wire colors connector cavity numbers and other details.

The connector cavity numbering sequence begins at the top left corner of the connector as seen from either of the viewpoints shown on diagram [8] .Except for the DLC (data link connector) disregard any numbers molded into the connector housing.

Wires

Wires are identified by the abbreviated names of their colors; the second color is the color of the stripe. Wires are also identified by their location in aconnector. The number "2" next to the male and female wire terminals at C554 for example means those terminals join in cavity 2 of connector C554.

Power Distribution Schematics

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

Power Distribution Schematics

Power Distribution schematics show how power is supplied from the positive battery terminal to various circuits in the car. Refer to the PowerDistribution diagram set to get a more detailed picture of how power is supplied to the circuit you're working on. Individual circuit schematics begin witha fuse. So if Power Distribution shows that an inoperative circuit and another circuit share a fuse, check a component in the other circuit. If it works, youknow the fuse is good and power is available to the inoperative circuit.

Ground Distribution Schematics

Ground Distribution Schematics

This sample Ground Distribution schematic shows all of the components that share the same ground point.

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Alarm/Immobilizer Control Unit: Diagnostic Aids

Five-Step Troubleshooting
Five-Step Troubleshooting

1. Verify The Complaint

Turn on all the components in the problem circuit to check the accuracy of the customer complaint. Note the symptoms. Do not begin disassemblyor testing until you have narrowed down the problem area.

2. Analyze The Schematic

Look up the schematic for the problem circuit. Determine how the circuit is supposed to work by tracing the current paths from the power sourcethrough the circuit components to ground. Also, trace circuits that share wiring with the problem circuit. The names of circuits that share the samefuse, ground, or switch, and so on, are referred to in each circuit schematic. Try to operate any shared circuits you didn't check in step 1. If theshared circuits work, the shared wiring is OK, and the cause must be in the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If several circuits fail at thesame time, the fuse or ground is a likely cause.
Based on the symptoms and your understanding of the circuit's operation, identify one or more possible causes.

3. Isolate The Problem By Testing The Circuit

Make circuit tests to check the diagnosis you made in step 2. Keep in mind that a logical, simple procedure is the key to efficient troubleshooting.Test for the most likely cause of failure first. Try to make tests at points that are easily accessible.

4. Fix The Problem

Once the specific problem is identified, make the repair. Be sure to use proper tools and safe procedures.

5. Make Sure The Circuit Works

Turn on all components in the repaired circuit in all modes to make sure you've fixed the entire problem. If the problem was a blown fuse, be sureto test all of the circuits on that fuse. Make sure no new problems turn up and the original problem does not recur.

Test Equipment
Test Equipment

CAUTION: 10-megaohm

Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a or higher impedance digitalmultimeter. Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.

Test Light and DVOM

12 volt

On circuits without solid-state devices, use a test light to check for voltage. A test light is made up of a bulb with a pair of leads attached. Aftergrounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the circuit where voltage should be present. The bulb will go on if there is voltage at thepoint being tested. If you need to know how much voltage is present, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

Self-Powered Test Light and DVOM

Use a self-powered test light to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a light bulb, battery, and two leads. To test it, touch the leads together: thelight should go on.

Use a self-powered test light only on an unpowered circuit. First, disconnect the battery, or remove the fuse that feeds the circuit you are working on.Select two points in the circuit between which you want to check continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there iscontinuity, the test light's circuit will be completed, and the light will go on.
If, in addition, you need to know exactly how much resistance there is between two points, use a digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM).

In the "OHMS" range, the DVOM will measure resistance between two points along a circuit. Low resistance means good continuity.

Diodes and solid-state devices in a circuit can make a DVOM give a false reading. To check a reading, reverse the leads, and take a second reading. Ifthe readings differ, the component is affecting the measurement.

Jumper Wire

Use a jumper wire to bypass an open circuit. A jumper wire is made up of an in-line fuse holder connected to a set of test leads. It should have a fiveampere fuse. Never connect a jumper wire across a short circuit. The direct battery short will blow the fuse.

Short Finder (Short Circuit Locater)

To order any test equipment shown above, contact your local tool supplier. For a list of suppliers and tool numbers, refer to Honda Required SpecialTools and Equipment Service Bulletin.

Troubleshooting Precautions
Troubleshooting Precautions

Before Troubleshooting

1. Check the main fuse and the fuse box.2. Check the battery for damage, state of charge, and clean and tight connections.

CAUTION:

- Do not quick-charge a battery unless the battery ground cable has been disconnected, or you will damage the alternator diodes.

- Do not attempt to crank the engine with the ground cable disconnected or you will severely damage the wiring.

While You're Working

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

Short finders are available to locate shorts to ground. The short finder creates a pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit which you can follow to thelocation of the short.

1. Make sure connectors are clean, and have no loose terminals or receptacles.

2. Make sure that connectors without wire seals are packed with dielectric (silicone) grease. Part Number: 08798-9001.3. When connecting a connector, push it until it "clicks" into place.

CAUTION:

- Do not pull on the wires when disconnecting a connector. Pull only on the connector housings.

-

10-megaohm

Most circuits include solid-state devices. Test the voltages in these circuits only with a or higher impedance digital multimeter.Never use a test light or analog meter on circuits that contain solid-state devices. Damage to the devices may result.

Troubleshooting Tests
Troubleshooting Tests

Testing for Voltage

When testing for voltage at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connectorfrom the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = anopen).

1. Connect one lead of the test light to a known good ground, or, if you're using a digital volt ohmmeter (DVOM), place it in the appropriate DC
volts range, and connect its negative lead to ground.

2. Connect the other lead of the test light or DVOM to the point you want to check.3. If the test light glows, there is voltage present. If you're using a DVOM, note the voltage reading. It should be within one volt of measured battery
voltage. A loss of more than one volt indicates a problem.

Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present).NOTE:

Testing for Continuity

When testing for continuity at a connector without wire seals, you do not have to separate the two halves of the connector. Instead, probe the connectorfrom the back. Always check both sides of the connector because dirty, corroded, and bent terminals can cause problems (no electrical contact = anopen).

1. Disconnect the negative cable from the car battery. If you're using a DVOM, place it in the lowest OHMS" range.

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or DVOM to one end of the part of the circuit you want to test.3. Connect the other lead to the other end.4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. If you're using a DVOM, a low reading or no reading (zero), means good continuity.

Testing for Voltage Drop

Wires, connectors, and switches are designed to conduct current with a minimum loss of voltage. A voltage drop of more than one volt indicates aproblem.

1. Place the digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) in the appropriate DC volts range. Connect the positive lead to the end of the wire (or to the connector or
switch) closest to the battery.

2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connector or switch).3. Turn on the components in the circuit.4. The DVOM will show the difference in voltage between the two points. A difference, or drop, of more than one volt indicates a problem. Check
the circuit for loose, dirty, or bent terminals.

Testing for a Short with a Test Light or DVOM

1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load.

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

2. Connect a test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM), switched to the appropriate DC volts range, across the fuse terminals to make sure voltage
is present. You might have to turn the ignition switch to ON; check the schematic to see.

3. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM.4. Where the test light goes off, or the DVOM voltage drops to zero, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that point.

Always use a DVOM on high impedance circuits. A test light may not glow (even with battery voltage present).NOTE:

Testing for a Short with a Self-Powered Test Light or DVOM

1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the battery and load.

2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or digital volt/ohmmeter (DVOM) (switched to the lowest "OHMS" range) to the fuse terminal on the
load side.

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

3. Connect the other lead to a known good ground.4. Beginning near the fuse box, wiggle the harness. Continue this at convenient points about six inches apart while watching the test light or DVOM.5. If the self-powered test light goes on or the DVOM displays a low reading or no reading (zero), there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.

Testing for a Short with a Short Circuit Locator (Short Finder)

1. Remove the blown fuse. Leave the battery connected.

2. Connect the short finder across the battery terminals and the load (component) side of the fuse terminal.3. Close all switches in the circuit you're testing.4. Turn on the short finder. This creates a pulsing magnetic field around the wiring between the fuse box and the short.5. Beginning at the fuse box, slowly move the short finder along the circuit wiring. The meter will read current pulses through sheet metal and body
trim. As long as the meter is between the fuse and the short, the needle will move with each current pulse. Once you move the meter past the pointof the short, the needle will stop moving. Check the wiring and connectors in this area to locate the cause of the short.

How to Replace Connector Terminals
HOW TO REPLACE CONNECTOR TERMINALS

The terminal repair kits provide necessary tools and materials (terminals, wire seals, and splice connectors) to repair many damaged or faulty connectorterminals. However, not all terminals for all connectors are available. Refer to the labels on the lids of the repair kits for replacement terminalavailability.

IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION:

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On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wireharnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.

Before you begin, inspect the wire you are about to repair for damage and length. Make sure the wire will be long enough to make a terminal repairwithout stretching it when you reinstall the terminal in the connector. If the wire is too short, or if access to the connector is too restricted to make aterminal repair, you may need to install a pigtail terminal (a short length of wire with a factory-crimped terminal on it). Refer to HOW TO INSTALLPIGTAIL TERMINALS.

Removing the Terminal

Use the tools from Pin Tool Set.

First, check the connector that you are about to repair.

­If it has a secondary terminal lock, go to Connectors With a Secondary Lock. A secondary lock, found on most connectors on some models, is anadditional locking device on the connector housing as a backup for the primary lock on the terminal.

- If the connector does not have a secondary lock, go to Connectors Without a Secondary Lock.

Connectors With a Secondary Lock

All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of the secondary terminal locks; however, the connector youare repairing may vary in size. Identify the connector by the type of secondary lock, not by the number of terminal cavities.

EXAMPLE A:

1. Release the secondary lock.

2. Remove the terminal.3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

EXAMPLE B:

1. Remove the secondary lock from the male terminal half.

2. Remove the secondary lock from the female terminal half.

3. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female).4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.

EXAMPLE C:

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

1. Remove the secondary lock.

2. Remove the terminal from the female half.

3. Remove the terminal from the male half.4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.

EXAMPLE D:

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

1. Remove the secondary locks.

2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female).3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.

EXAMPLE E:

1. Remove the secondary locks.

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

2. Remove the terminal (same procedure for male and female).3. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.

EXAMPLE F:

1. Remove the secondary locks.

2. Remove the terminal from the female half.

3. Remove the terminal from the male half.4. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

Connectors Without a Secondary Lock

All examples are shown with the connector lock facing up. The illustrations are examples of connector terminals without a secondary lock; however, theconnector you are repairing may vary in size and shape.

EXAMPLE A:

1. Remove the terminal.2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.

EXAMPLE B:

1. Remove the terminal.2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.

EXAMPLE C:

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

1. Remove the terminal.2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.

EXAMPLE D:

1. Remove the terminal.2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.

EXAMPLE E:

1. Remove the terminal.2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.

EXAMPLE F:

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

1. Remove the terminal.2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.

EXAMPLE G:

1. Remove the terminal.2. Go to HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS.

How to Install New Terminals
HOW TO INSTALL NEW TERMINALS

1. Carefully match the old terminal with a new one from the terminal repair kit. Choose the correct replacement terminal based on the wire size range
the terminal will accommodate.

NOTE:

If the replacement terminal quantities are low, reorder them by using the terminal part number listed on the inside lid of the terminalrepair kit. Replacement terminals are available through your parts department using normal parts ordering procedures.

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2. Depending on the size of the wire you are repairing, use the proper size slot in the crimping tool.

3. Strip the insulation off the end of the wire so the wire fits in the new terminal as shown. (If the wire has a wire seal, replace it with a new one from
the kit.)

NOTE:

After stripping the end of the wire, make sure you did not cut any wire strands. If you did, cut the wire off even with the insulation, andstrip it again.

4. Position the terminal in the crimping tool slot with the solid portion of the terminal toward the anvil and the open section toward the former.5. Insert the wire in the terminal to the position shown in step 3.

6. Squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.

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7. Crimp the insulation crimp.

-

If you do not have a wire seal, then use the next larger size crimp slot. Position the crimping tool over the insulation crimp section of theterminal, then squeeze the tool with both hands until the stops make contact.

-

If you have a wire seal, position the insulation crimp in the 5.5 crimping slot, then carefully squeeze the crimp closed until its ends aretouching and making a full-circle shape.

8. Inspect the quality of the wire crimp. If it has any of the following NO GOOD crimps, cut it off and start over.9. Insert the terminal into the connector. Make sure the wire seals are pushed all the way into the connector. Lightly pull on the wires to make sure
the terminal is locked into place.

10. Close or insert the secondary terminal lock, if applicable, and reconnect the connector.

How to Install Pigtail Terminals
HOW TO INSTALL PIGTAIL TERMINALS

Pigtail terminals (short pieces of wire with a factory crimped terminal) are used when the wire is too short or when access to the connector is toorestricted to make a terminal repair.

To replace just a connector terminal, go to How to Replace Connector Terminals.NOTE:

IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION:

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On some models, the SRS wires are in a separate harness. If the SRS harness is damaged, replace the harness; do not repair it. On other models, wireharnesses include yellow SRS wires. If any SRS wire is damaged, replace the entire harness; do not repair it.

1. Remove the damaged or faulty terminal from the connector. Use the proper removal tool from Pin Tool Set.

2. Cut off the wire about an inch back from where it connects to the damaged or faulty terminal, then strip about half of the insulation off that piece.
This will be used to size the wire end of the replacement pigtail terminal.

If you are not sure of the wire size, start with a large enough hole on the stripper that will not nick or cut off any strands of wires.NOTE:

3. Select a pigtail terminal that matches the original wire at both ends (same kind of terminal and same diameter bare wire).4. Select the smallest splice connector (yellow, pink, or blue) that will fit onto the stripped end of the original wire.

5. Insert the pigtail terminal into the connector cavity; push it in until it locks in place.6. Lay the pigtail and the original wire side-by-side, and cut off both ends at once. If you are making more than one splice, do not cut each pigtail at

the same location; the resulting "lump" of splice connectors would interfere with rewrapping the harness. Instead, cut the first pigtail close enoughto the terminal so you will have room to make each remaining cut about farther down on the next pigtail.20 mm (3/4 inch)

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7. If you are using a yellow splice connector, strip about of insulation off the ends of both wires. If you are using a pink or blue6 mm (1/4 inch)
splice connector, strip off about of insulation.8 mm (5/16 inch)

If you nick or cut off any strands of wire, try again with the next larger size hole on the stripper.NOTE:

8. Put the splice connector in the proper size slot in the Crimper Tool, slide it to one end (where the flare begins), and close the crimper handles far
enough to hold it in place. To release the ratchet mechanism at any point after the first click, squeeze the handles slightly and push the releaselever, then let the handles open.

9. Insert one of the bare wires into the splice connector end that is in the crimper jaws. Push the wire all the way into the splice connector, and
squeeze the crimper handles. Keep squeezing until the jaws touch, and hold it at that position until the ratchet clicks again.

10. Crimp the other wire in the same way into the other end of the splice connector.11. After crimping, gently pull on the wires in the opposite directions to make sure they are secure in the connector.

12. Separate the other wires in the harness from the repaired wire(s), and shield them with nonflammable material.

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13. Plug in the heat gun, and turn it on. Start at the middle of the splice connector, and move the gun toward the ends as the tube shrinks. Apply heat
evenly by rotating the curved heat spreader around the splice connector. Shrinking is complete when a small amount of sealant appears at each endof the tube.

Be careful when working with the high heat produced by the heat gun.NOTE:

Pigtail Terminal Selection Chart

PIGTAIL TERMINAL SELECTION CHART

Select the proper size pigtail terminal by matching the replacement terminal part number and the wire size being repaired to the corresponding pigtailterminal part number. Then use the color (size) splice connector listed. In some instances you may also have to match the wire seal style to select theproper pigtail terminal. Pigtail terminals are available through your parts department, in quantities of 10, using normal parts ordering procedures.

Checking For Poor Fit of Terminals
CHECKING FOR POOR FIT OF TERMINALS

Loose terminal fit can cause a number of intermittent problems in electrical circuits. By using the Terminal Inspection Feeler Tool Set you can inspectthe terminal fit between the two matching connectors without removing the terminals from the connector body.

1. Find the terminal tool that best matches the male terminal in the mating connector.

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

2. Insert the terminal tool into the female terminal, and then remove the terminal tool.

NOTE:

Make sure you do not select a terminal tool that is larger than the mating male terminal because it would spread the female terminal andcause a loose fit.

3. Compare the drag to the other terminals in the connector. If the drag is less, replace the terminal with a replacement terminal from the appropriate
terminal repair kit.

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Alarm/Immobilizer Control Unit: Connector Views

115. Immobilizer Receiver Unit

181. Security Control Unit (Honda Accessory)

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and Instructions > Page 42

Immobilizer System Image 132

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Alarm/Immobilizer Control Unit: Description and Operation
How the Immobilizer System Circuit Works

The immobilizer system is designed to prevent the car from being started without the owner's ignition key. If an attempt is made to start the car with anyother key, the immobilizer system will disable the car's fuel supply.

The immobilizer system consists of the ignition key, immobilizer receiver unit, immobilizer system indicator, PGM-FI main relay, fuel pump, fuel cutrelay, and the ECM.

With the ignition switch in ON (II) or START (III), the immobilizer receiver unit and the ECM receive an "ignition on" signal through fuse 7 and the PGM-FI main relay. The ECM then sends power to the ignition key transponder through the immobilizer receiver unit. The transponder then sends acoded signal back to the ECM through the receiver. If the signal is correct, the ECM will enable the car's fuel supply system by grounding the fuel cutrelay. The immobilizer system indicator then flashes a code to indicate that the correct key has been inserted. If the ignition key signal is not correct, theECM will disable the car's fuel supply system by not grounding the fuel cut relay. The immobilizer system indicator then flashes a code to indicate thatan incorrect key has been inserted.
Refer to the Body Electrical System for specific tests and troubleshooting procedures.

> Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Ignition Shut Down Relay (For Antitheft) > Component Information > Locations

Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard

> Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Keyless Entry Module > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations

Keyless Entry Module: Component Locations

38. Under Left Side of Dash

43. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory)

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43. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory)

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156. Keyless Door Lock Control Unit

> Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Door Lock Relay > Component Information > Locations

44. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory)

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180. Unlock Relay (Honda Accessory)

> Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Keyless Entry Module > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations

Keyless Entry Module: Component Locations

38. Under Left Side of Dash

43. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory)

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43. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory)

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156. Keyless Door Lock Control Unit

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Power Door Lock Control Module: Component Locations

Relay And Control Unit Locations - Dashboard

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Insight L3-1.0L Hybrid (2000)

Power Door Locks - Component Location Index

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38. Under Left Side of Dash

43. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory)

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43. Under Left Side of Dash (Honda Accessory)