This section provides procedures for the checkout and replacement of the various parts used within the fryer. Before replacing any parts, refer to the Troubleshooting section. It will aid
you in determining the cause of the malfunction.
This section is arranged in groupings of the components that
work together within the fryer. The general groups are listed
below.
Removing the Control Panel
Probe
Electrical Components
1. You may want to use a multimeter to check the electric
components.
2. When the manual refers to the circuit being closed, the
multimeter should read zero unless otherwise noted.
3. When the manual refers to the circuit being open, the
multimeter will read infinity.
Control Board
Pressure System
Moving the cookpot with hot shortening in the cookpot
or filter pan is not recommended. Hot shortening can
splash out. Severe burns could result.
4. The weights can be removed from the frame to easily
access the rear of cooker.
This high temperature control is a manual reset control which
senses the temperature of the shortening. If the shortening
temperature exceeds 420°F (215”C), this control switch will
open and shut off the heat to the eookpot. When the
temperature of the shortening drops to a safe operation limit,
the control must be manually reset. The reset button is located
above the filter knob in the front of the cooker. This will allow
heat to be supplied to the cookpot.
Before replacing a high temperature limit control, check to
see that its circuit is closed.
The shortening temperature must be below 380°F
(193°C) to accurately perform this check.
1. Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer.
Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer by
unplugging the unit, or by turning off the wall circuit
breaker or electrical shock could result.
2. Remove the control panel.
3. Remove the two electrical wires from the high
temperature limit control.
4. Manually reset the control, then check for continuity
between the two terminals after resetting the control. If
the circuit is open, replace the control, then continue with
this procedure. (If the circuit is closed, the high limit is
not defective. Reconnect the two electrical wires.)
Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer by
unplugging the unit, or by turning off the wall circuit
breaker or electrical shock could result.
1. If the tube is broken or cracked, the control will open, shutting off electrical power. The control cannot be reset.
2. Drain shortening from the eookpot and discard. A
substance in the tube could contaminate the shortening.
3. Remove control panel.
4. Loosen small inside screw nut on capillary tube.
5. Remove capillary bulb from bulb holder inside the cookpot.
6. Straighten the capillary tube.
7. Remove larger outside nut that threads into pot wall.
8. Remove the two nuts securing the high limit bracket at
the front of the fryer, and remove bracket.
9. Remove the two screws that secure high limit to the high
limit bracket.
10. Remove defective control from control panel area.
11. Insert new control and replace screws.
12. Uncoil capillary line, starting at capillary tube, and insert
through cookpot wall.
To avoid electrical shock or other injury, the capillary
line must run under and away from all electrical power
wires and terminals. The tube must NEVER be in such
a position where it could accidentally touch the electrical power terminals.
13. Carefully bend the capillary tube as shown in photo and
place into bulb brackets.
14. Pull excess capillary line from pot and tighten nut into
cookpot wall.
Be sure capillary bulb of high limit is positioned as not
to interfere with carrier or when cleaning the cookpot
wall, or damage to capillary tube could result.
15. With excess capillary line pulled out, tighten smaller nut.
16. Replace front panel.
17. Refill with shortening.
The Power/Pump Switch is a three way rocker switch with
a center “OFF“ position. With the switch in the POWER
position the fryer will operate. With the switch in the PUMP
position the filter pump will operate, but the heating unit will
not.
Remove electrical power suppled to the fryer by unplugging the unit, or turning off the wall circuit breaker
or electrical shock could result.
1. Remove Control Panel.
2. “OFF” Position - should be open circuit anywhere on the
switch.
3. “Power” Position
Check from:
#5 to #6 closed circuit
#l to #2 closed circuit
4. “Pump” Position
Check from:
#4 to #5 closed circuit
#3 to #2 closed circuit
Check across the jumpers on the wires of the
Power/Pump Switch. These jumpers have resistors and
capacitors which may be faulty.
1. With control panel removed and wires off of the switch,
push in on tabs on the switch to remove from the panel.
2. Replace with new switch, and reconnect wires to switch
following the wiring diagram.
3. Replace the control panel.
The Temperature Probe relays the actual shortening
temperature to the control. If it becomes disabled, PROB will
show in the display. Also, if the temperature is out of calibration more than 10°F or C”, the probe should be replaced as
follows:
1. Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer.
Place the Power Switch to the “OFF” position, and
unplug the power cord or turn the wall circuit breaker
off or electrical shock could result.
2. Drain the shortening from the cookpot.
3. Remove the Control Panel.
4. Remove probe connections from PC board.
5. Using a l/2” wrench, remove the nut on the compression
fitting.
6. Remove the probe from the eookpot.
7. Place the nut and new ferrule on the new probe and insert
the probe into the compression fitting until it extends onehalf (l/2) inch (1.3 cm) into the cookpot, 5116 inch (.78 cm)
on gas fryers.
8. Tighten hand tight and then a half turn with wrench.
Excess force will damage probe.
9. Connect new probe to PC board and replace Control Panel.
10. Replace shortening.
11. Turn power
“ON” and check out fryer.
Henny Penny Model 680
5-7 COMPLETE CONTROLShould the Control Panel not operate, replace the panel as follows:
PANEL - HENNY PENNY
1. Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer.
Place the Power/Pump Switch in the “OFF” position, and
unplug the power cord and/or turn off the wall circuit breaker,
or electrical shock could result.
2. Remove the two screws securing the Control Panel and lift
panel up and out.
3. Unplug the connectors going to the Control Board.
4. Install new Control Panel.
When plugging connectors into new Control Panel, be sure
connectors are lined-up correctly, such as, connector is not
plugged in backwards, or damage to the board could result.
5-8 PRESSURE REGULATIONThe Henny Penny Fryer uses pressure as one of the components of
the cooking process. Once the lid is sealed to the cookpot, and the
solenoid valve closes, a deadweight valve maintains the correct
pressure in the cookpot.
The lid has minimal and limited maintenance and repair procedures,
which are addressed in the following sections.
The following is a routine maintenance schedule for the Lid:
Every 90 days
•Clean and reverse lid gasket
Yearly Inspection
•Remove and clean safety relief valve
•Check Lid Gasket for splitting and tears - replace if necessary
•Check Pressure Pads for wear - rotate if necessary
•Check Cam Slide Guides - replace if worn or broken
•Check Lid Rollers - replace if cracked or damaged.
5-6 1005
The Lid Assembly is easily tilted up for cleaning or servicing.
1. Lower the lid assembly.,
2. Turn the Lid Stop Bracket towards the left of the unit.
Do not tilt the lid back when the lid is in the full raised
position. The handle will fall across the flue opening
and will cause severe burns when touched.
3. Carefully allow the lid support to come to rest against the
Lid Stop Bracket.
4. Grasping the lid handle, lift the front of the lid up until
it stops in an upright position.
Be sure the metal arm on the left side of the lid is in
the vertical position holding the lid in the upright
position, or severe injuries could result.
The gray rubber gasket surrounding the inside of the lid is
designed to be reversed. HENNY PENNY RECOMMENDS
THAT THIS BE DONE EVERY 90 DAYS.
Because of heat expansion and the pressure used for the cooking process, the gasket is constantly under extreme stress.
Reversing the lid gasket every 90 days will help to assure that
the fryer will not lose pressure through leakage.
1. Put the lid in the upright position, as previously described.
2. Using a thin blade screwdriver, pry out the gasket at the
corners. Remove the gasket.
Check the gasket for any tears or nicks. If the gasket
is damaged it needs to be replaced.
Be careful that the lid doesn’t fall down while it is in
the upright position, or serious injury could result.
3. Clean the gasket and gasket seat with hot water.
4. Rotate the gasket with the opposite side facing out.
Begin the installation by installing the four corners of
the lid gasket, and smoothing the gasket into place from
the corners.
The Lid Counterweight in the back of the fryer balances the
weight of the lid system to allow easier opening and closing
of the lid. The weight has two cables attached to it, and weighs
about 150 lbs. (67.5 Kg). One cable is centered on the weight
and is the cable being used. The other cable is a safety cable
and is off center. In case the main cable becomes loose or
broken, the safety cable catches the weight and puts the weight
into a bind, not allowing the lid to be opened or closed.
1. Using a 3/8” socket, remove the back shroud of the fryer.
2. With one person holding the weight level, another person
locks the lid down.
3. Unthread the broken cable from the weight and the
bracket attached to the fryer, and remove broken cable.
4. Thread a 5116” nut on each end of the new cable.
5. Screw the new cable into the weight, using a wrench, until
it is tight.
6. Using a l/2” wrench, tighten the nut (already threaded
on the cable) against the weight securing the cable into
the weight.
7. Pull cable over pulley and down behind the weight.
8. Thread the other end of the cable through a 5116” nut on
the underside of the bracket.
9. Tighten the cable up by screwing the cable through the
nut, until the weight becomes level.
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