Henny Penny 581 Operation Manual

This section provides procedures for the checkout and replace­ment of the various parts used within the fryer. Before replac­ing any parts, refer to the Troubleshooting section. It will aid
you in determining the cause of the malfunction.

This section is arranged in groupings of the components that
work together within the fryer. The general groups are listed
below.

Removing the Control Panel
Probe
Electrical Components
Control Board
Pressure System

1. You may want to use a multimeter to check the electric
components.

2. When the manual refers to the circuit being closed, the
multimeter should read zero unless otherwise noted.

3. When the manual refers to the circuit being open, the
multimeter will read infinity.

The complete control panel can be easily removed for repair
on the panel itself, or for access to the area behind the control
panel.

1. Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer.

Place the Cook/Pump Switch in the “OFF” position,
and unplug the power cord and/or turn the wall circuit
breaker off or electrical shock could result.

2. Remove the two screws securing the Control Panel and
lift panel up and out.

3. Unplug the g-pin connector and the probe connection at
the Control Board. Then remove complete panel from unit.

This high temperature control is a manual reset control which
senses the temperature of the shortening. If the shortening
temperature exceeds 420 “F (215 “C), this control switch will
onen and shut off the heat to the cooknot. When the
temperature of the shortening drops to a safe-operation limit,
the control must be manually reset. The reset button is located
above the filter knob in the front of the cooker. This will allow
heat to be supplied to the cookpot.

Before replacing a high temperature limit control, check to
see that its circuit is closed.

The shortening temperature must be below 380°F
(193°C) to accurately perform this check.

1. Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer.

Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer by
unplugging the unit, or by turning off the wall circuit
breaker or electrical shock could result.

2. Remove the control panel.

3. Remove the two electrical wires from the high
temperature limit control.

4. Manually reset the control, then check for continuity
between the two terminals after resetting the control. If
the circuit is open, replace the control, then continue with
this procedure. (If the circuit is closed, the high lmit is not

I

defective. Reconnect the two electrical wires.)

Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer by
unplugging the unit, or by turning off the wall circuit
breaker or electrical shock could result.

1. If the tube is broken or cracked, the control will open, shut­ting off electrical power. The control cannot be reset.

2. Drain shortening from the cookpot and discard. A
substance in the tube could contaminate the shortening.

3. Remove control panel.

4. Loosen small inside screw nut on capillary tube.

5. Remove capillary bulb from bulb holder inside the cookpot.

6. Straighten the capillary tube.

7. Remove larger outside nut that threads into pot wall.

8. Remove the two nuts securing the high limit bracket at
the front of the fryer, and remove bracket.

9. Loosen the three screws that secure high limit to the high
limit bracket.

10. Remove defective control from control panel area.

11. Insert new control and replace screws.

12. Uncoil capillary line, starting at capillary tube, and insert
through cookpot wall.

To avoid electrical shock or other injury, the capillary
line must run under and away from all electrical power
wires and terminals. The tube must NEVER be in such

a position where it could accidentally touch the elec-

trical power terminals.

13. Carefully bend the capillary bulb holder on heating
elements.

14. Slip capillary bulb into bulb holder located on heating
elements. Pull excess capillary line from pot and tighten
nut into cookpot wall.

Be sure capillary bulb of high limit is positioned as not
to interfere with basket or when cleaning the cookpot
wall, or damage to capillary tube could result.

15. With excess capillary line pulled out, tighten smaller nut.

16. Replace front panel.

17. Refill with shortening.

There are two fuse holders on each model of the electric fryers.

Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer by
unplugging the unit, or turning off the wall circuit
breaker or electrical shock could result.

CONTROL PANEL FUSES 3 Phase Check from #54 to #55
and #68 to #69 on fuse assembly, or the fuse can be removed

to check for a closed circuit. If not, replace the fuse (HP#

EFOZ-007).

The Cook/Pump Switch is a three way rocker switch with a
center “OFF” position. With the switch in the “COOK”
position the fryer will operate. With the switch in the “PUMP”
position the filter pump will operate, but the heating unit will
not.

Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer by
unplugging the unit, or turning off the wall circuit
breaker or electrical shock could result.

1. Remove Control Panel.

2. “OFF” Position - should be open circuit anywhere on the
switch.

3. “COOK” Position - Check from:
#5 to #6 closed circuit
#l to #2 closed circuit

4. “PUMP” Position - Check from:
#4 to #5 closed circuit
#3 to #2 closed circuit

Check across the jumpers on the wires of the
Cook/Pump Switch. These jumpers have resistors and
capacitors which may be faulty.

1. With control panel removed and wires off of the switch,
push in on tabs on the switch to remove from the panel.

2. Replace with new switch, and reconnect wires to switch

following the wiring diagram.

3. Replace the control panel.

The electric fryer requires two switching co&actors:

a primary
contactor and a heat contactor. The primary contactor
energizes (contacts close) any time the Cook/Pump Switch
is in the “COOK” position and the temperature of the pot is

below 420°F (215°C). The high limit will cut the power at the
primary contactor if temperatures in the cookpot exceed 420 “F
(215°C). The primary contactor supplies power to one side of
the heat eontactors.

The heat contactor (mercury contactor) is controlled by the
computer controller. When the controller calls for heat, the
heat contactor applies power to one side of the heating
elements. When the heat contactor and the primary eontac­tor are energized (contacts closed), the electric heating
elements heat the shortening.

1. Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer.

Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer by
unplugging the unit, or turning off the wall circuit
breaker or electrical shock could result.

2. Remove the control panel.

3. Perform a check on both contactors as follows:

Open Circuit
Open Circuit
Open Circuit

4. Check across the coil terminals:
Standard Contactor - 415 ohms

Mercury Contactor - 1500 ohms

The following checks are performed with the wall cir­cuit breaker on, and the Cook/Pump Switch in the

“COOK” position. Extreme caution should be taken.
Make connections before applying power, take reading,
and remove power by unplugging the power cord, or
by turning off the wall circuit breaker, before remov­ing meter leads or electrical shock could result.

5. With power re-applied and in a heat-up mode, check the
power going to both contactor coils. This is to be sure
power is going to the contactors.

If no voltage is found going into the coils, check wiring, high­limit, and drain switch for the primary contactor. (See
Maintenance Section). For the heat contactor, check wiring
and connection at the P.C. Board.

If either contactor is defective it must be replaced as follows:

Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer by
unplugging power cord or turning off the wall circuit
breaker, or electrical shock could result.

1. Remove only those wires directly connected to the con­tactor being replaced. Label the wires.

2. Remove the two mounting nuts on the base plate and
remove standard contactor (primary), proceed to step 5,
if this is the contactor to be replaced.

3. Remove the two mounting nuts securing the mercury con­tactor bracket to the base plate and remove bracket.

4. Remove the two screws securing the mercury contactor

to the bracket and remove contactor.

5. Install new contactor in reverse order of previous steps.

6. Install control panel.

7. Reconnect power to fryer and test the fryer for proper
operation.

Each electric fryer uses two heating elements.

Heating elements are available for 208 or 220/240,380
and 415 voltage. Check the data plate on the right side
panel of unit to determine the correct voltage.

If the shortening’s temperature recovery is very slow, or at
a slower rate than required, this may indicate defective heating
element(s). A multimeter will quickly indicate if the elements
are shorted or open.

1. Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer.

Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer by
unplugging the unit, or turning off the wall circuit
breaker or electrical shock could result.

2. Remove the Control Panel.

The following checks are performed with the wall
circuit breaker closed and the Cook/Pump switch in the

“COOK” position. Extreme caution should be taken.
Make connections before applying power, take reading,
and remove power by unplugging the power cord, or
by turning off the wall circuit breaker, before remov­ing meter leads, or electrical shock could result.

3. Perform an amp check on one heating element at a time
with the wires connected to the contactors. The two
heaters actually have three small heating elements on the
inside of the outer plate. It is important to check between
the correct wires to obtain an accurate amp reading. The
wires are labelled for your convenience.

8500 W
L3 - L2 8500 w
L2 - Ll 8500 W
Ll - L2 8500 W
L3 - L2 8500 W.

I LZ-Ll 8500 W

208 V
208 V
208 V
240 V
240 V
240 V

48
48
48
40
40
40

1. Drain the shortening.

2. Remove the high limit bulb holder from the heating
element.

3. Remove the Control Panel.

4. Disconnect the heating element wires from the contactors.

5. Loosen the screws on the element spreaders.

6. Slide the element spreaders to the back of the heating
elements.

7. Pull wires through insulation and bend insulation down,
out of the way.

8. Remove the brass nuts and washers which secure the ends
of the elements through the cookpot.

9. Remove the heating elements from the cookpot as a group
by lifting the far end and sliding them up and out toward
the rear of the cookpot.

Always install new rubber “0” rings when installing
heater elements.

10. Install new heating elements with new rubber “0” rings
mounted in the center of the stacked elements.

11. Replace the heating elements, terminal ends first at
approximately 45” angle, slipping the terminal ends
through the front wall of the cookpot.

12. Replace the brass nuts and washers on the heating element
terminals.

13. Move the element spreaders from the back of the elements
into a position which will spread each element apart evenly
on all four sides, and tighten.

14. Replace the high limit bulb holder on the top element, and

position the bulb above the top element and tighten screws

which hold bulb in place.

15. Reconnect the wires to the appropriate terminals.

16. Replace the front control panel.

17. Connect the power cord to the wall receptacle or turn wall
circuit breaker on.