This section provides procedures for the checkout and replacement of the various parts used within the fryer. Before replacing any parts, refer to the Troubleshooting section. It will aid
you in determining the cause of the malfunction.
This section is arranged in groupings of the components that
work together within the fryer. The general groups are listed
below.
Removing the Control Panel
Probe
Electrical Components
Control Board
Pressure System
1. You may want to use a multimeter to check the electric
components.
2. When the manual refers to the circuit being closed, the
multimeter should read zero unless otherwise noted.
3. When the manual refers to the circuit being open, the
multimeter will read infinity.
4. The weights can be removed from the frame to easily
access the rear of cooker.
The following electrical components are described in this
section.
1. High Limit
2. Fuse Holders
3. Power/Pump Switch
4. Contactors
5. Heating Elements
6. Temperature Probe
7. Complete Control Panel Henny Penny
This high temperature control is a manual reset control which
senses the temperature of the shortening. If the shortening
temperature exceeds 420°F (215OC), this control switch will
open and shut off the heat to the cookpot. When the
temperature of the shortening drops to a safe operation limit,
the control must be manually reset. The reset button is located
above the filter knob in the front of the cooker. This will allow
heat to be supplied to the cookpot.
Before replacing a high temperature limit control, check to
see that its circuit is closed.
The shortening temperature must be below 380°F
(193°C) to accurately perform this check.
1. Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer.
Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer by
unplugging the unit, or by turning off the wall circuit
breaker or electrical shock could result.
2. Remove the control panel.
3. Remove the two electrical wires from the high
temperature limit control.
4. Manually reset the control, then check for continuity
between the two terminals after resetting the control. If
the circuit is open, replace the control, then continue with
this procedure. (If the circuit is closed, the high limit.is
not defective. Reconnect the two electrical wires.)
Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer by
unplugging the unit, or by turning off the wall circuit
breaker or electrical shock could result.
1. If the tube is broken or cracked, the control will open, shutting off electrical power. The control cannot be reset.
2. Drain shortening from the cookpot and discard. A
substance in the tube could contaminate the shortening.
3. Remove control panel.
4. Loosen small inside screw nut on capillary tube.
5. Remove capillary bulb from bulb holder inside the cookpot.
6. Straighten the capillary tube.
7. Remove larger outside nut that threads into pot wall.
8. Remove the two nuts securing the high limit bracket at
the front of the fryer, and remove bracket.
9. Remove the two screws that secure high limit to the high
limit bracket.
10. Remove defective control from control panel area.
Il. Insert new control and replace screws.
12. Uncoil capillary line, starting at capillary tube, and insert
through cookpot wall.
To avoid electrical shock or other injury, the capillary
line must run under and away from all electrical power
wires and terminals. The tube must NEVER be in such
a position where it could accidentally touch the electrical power terminals.
13. Carefully bend the capillary bulb holder on heating
elements.
14. Slip capillary bulb into bulb holder located on heating
elements. Pull excess capillary line from pot and tighten
nut into cookpot wall.
Be sure capillary bulb of high limit is positioned as not
to interfere with carrier or when cleaning the cookpot
wall, or damage to capillary tube could result.
With excess capillary line pulled out, tighten smaller nut.
15.
16. Replace front panel.
17. Refill with shortening.
There are two fuse holders on each model of the electric fryers.
There are no fuse holder assemblies for the gas models other
than that at the main power source.
Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer by
unplugging the unit, or turning off the wall circuit
breaker or electrical shock could result.
CONTROL PANEL FUSES 3 Phase Check from #54 to #55
and #68 to #69 on fuse assembly, or the fuse can be removed
to check for a closed circuit. If not, replace the fuse (HP#
EF02-007).
The Power/Pump Switch is a three way rocker switch with
a center “OFF“ position. With the switch in the POWER
position the fryer wiil operate. With the switch in the PUMP
position the filter pump will operate, but the heating unit will
not.
1. Remove Control Panel.
Remove electrical power suppled to the fryer by unplugging the unit, or turning off the wall circuit breaker
or electrical shock could result.
2. “OFF” Position - should be open circuit anywhere on the
switch.
3. “Power” Position
Check from:
-5 to -6 closed circuit
-1 to -2 closed circuit
4. “Pump” Position
Check from:
#4 to #5 closed circuit
#3 to #2 closed circuit
Check across the jumpers on the wires of the
Power/Pump Switch. These jumpers have resistors and
capacitors which may be faulty.
1. With control panel removed and wires off of the switch,
push in on tabs on the switch to remove from the panel.
2. Replace with new switch, and reconnect wires to switch
following the wiring diagram.
3. Replace the control panel.
Primary
The electric fryer requires two switching contactors:
a primary
contactor and a heat contactor. The primary contactor
energizes (contacts close) any time the Power/Pump Switch
is in the “Power” position and the temperature of the pot is
below 420°F (215OC). The hi limit will cut the power at the
primary contactor if temperatures in the cookpot exceed 420° F
(215O 6). The primary contactor supplies power to one side of
the heat contactors.
The heat contactor is controlled by the computer controller.
en the controller calls for heat, the heat contactor applies
power to one side of the heating elements. When the heat
contactor and the primary contactor are energized (contacts
closed), the electric heating elements heat the shortening.
Heat
1. Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer.
Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer by
unplugging the unit, or turning off the wall circuit
breaker or electrical shock could result.
2. Remove the control panel.
3. Perform a check on both contactors as follows:
E?SL
L3 - L3
L2 - L2
Ll - Ll
Its
Open Circuit
Open Circuit
Open Circuit
4. Check across the coil terminals:
Standard Contactor - 415 ohms
Mercury Contactor - 1500 ohms
The following checks, are performed with the wall
circuit breaker on, and the Power/Pump Switch in the
ower” position. Extreme caution should be taken.
ake connections before applying power, take reading,
and remove power by unplugging the power cord, or
by turning off the wall circuit breaker, before removing meter leads or electrical shock could result.
ith power re-applied and in a heat-up mode, check the
5.
power going to both contactor coils. This is to be sure
power is going to the contactors.
If no voltage is found going into the coils, the
and drain switch for the primary contactor.
Section.) For the heat contactor, check wi
If either contactor is defective it must be replaced as follows:
Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer by
unplugging power cord or turning off the wall circuit
breaker, or electrical shock could result.
emove only those wires directly connected to the
contactor being replaced. Label the wires.
2. Remove the two mounting screws on the base plate and
remove standard contactor (primary). Proceed to step 5.
3. Remove the two nuts securing the mercury contactor
bracket to the base plate and remove bracket.
4. move the two screws securing the mercury contactor
the bracket and remove contactor.
5. Install new contactor in reverse order of previous steps.
nstall control panel.
econnect power to fryer and test the fryer for proper
Each electric fryer uses two heating elements.
Heating elements are available for 208 or 220/240,380
and 415 voltage. Check the data plate on the right side
panel of unit to determine the correct voltage.
If the shortening’s temperature recovery is very slow, or at
a slower rate than required, this may indicate defective heating
element(s). A multimeter will quickly indicate if the elements
are shorted or open.
1. Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer.
Remove electrical power supplied to the fryer by
unplugging the unit, or turning off the wall circuit
breaker or electrical shock could result.
2. Remove the Control Panel.
The following checks are performed with the wall
circuit breaker closed and the Power/Pump switch in
“Power” position. Extreme caution should be taken.
Make connections before applying power, take reading,
and remove power by unplugging the power cord, or
by turning off the wall circuit breaker, before removing meter leads, or electrical shock could result.
3. Perform an amp check on one heating element at a time
with the wires connected to the contactors. The two
heaters actually have three small heating elements on the
inside of the outer plate. It is important to check between
the correct wires to obtain an accurate amp reading. The
wires are labelled for your convenience.
ower
47.3
47.9
48.0
39.4
40.1
39.9
L3 - L2
L2 - Ll
Ll - L2
L3 - L2
L2 - Ll
8500 w
8500 w
8500 w
8500 w
8500 w
8500 w
203 v
208 v
208 V
240 V
240 V
240 V
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