Heat Wagon HVF210HD, HVF110HD, HVF310HD Installation And Maintenance Manual

C US
342 N. Co. Rd. 400 East
219-464-8818 • Fax 219-462-7985
www.heatwagon.com
Installation and Maintenance Manual
Please retain this manual for future reference.
HVF110, 210, 310, 410HD
Construction Heaters
Revision 12-11
For your safety: Do not use this heater in
a space where gasoline or other liquids
having flammable vapors are stored.
CONSTRUCTION HEATER GENERAL HAZARD WARNING
TECHNICIAN.
WARNING
WARNING
WARNING
We cannot anticipate every use which may be made for our heaters. CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL FIRE SAFETY AUTHORITY IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS ABOUT LOCAL REGULA­TIONS.
Other standards govern the use of fuel gases and heat producing products in specific applica­tions. Your local authority can advise you about these.
FOR YOUR SAFETY
DO NOT USE THIS HEATER IN A SPACE WHERE GASOLINE OR OTHER LIQUIDS HAVING FLAMMABLE VAPORS ARE STORED OR USED.
Installation and Maintenance Manual
Model HVF110, 210, 310, 410HD
Construction Heater
Table of Contents:
Safety and Caution . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Operating Instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .5
Control Board . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7-13
Chimney/Flue Set-up . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
HVF110 Wiring/Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15-21
HVF210 Wiring/Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .22-29
HVF310 Wiring/Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23-24, 30-33
HVF410HD Wiring/Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34-39
Accessories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25
WARRANTY
All new Heat Wagon and Sure Flame heaters and fans are guaranteed against defective materials and work­manship for one (1) year from invoice date.
Warranty repairs may be made only by an authorized, trained and certified Heat Wagon dealer. Warranty repairs by other entities will not be considered. Warranty claims must include model number and serial number.
LIMITATIONS
Warrant claims for service parts (wear parts) such as spark plugs, igniters, flame rods will not be allowed. Diagnostic parts such as voltage meters and pressure gauges are not warrantable.
Evidence of improper fuel usage, fuel pressures outside of manufacturer’s specification, poor fuel quality, and improper electric power, misapplication or evidence of abuse may be cause for rejection of warranty claims.
Travel time, mileage and shipping charges will not be allowed. Minor adjustments of heaters are dealers’ responsibility. Defective parts must be tagged and held for possible return to the factory for 60 days from date of repair. The factory will provide a return goods authorization, (RGA) for defective parts to be returned.
No warranty will be allowed for parts not purchased from Heat Wagon.
342 N. Co. Rd. 400 East • Valparaiso, IN 46383
219-464-8818 • 888-432-8924 • Fax 800-255-7985
www.heatwagon.com
HVF110 HVF210 HVF310 HVF410HD
412/272
1020
3250
94.8
5.73
4.05
0.55-80º W
0.5
0.118
5.9
0.05
17.2
49.3x20x33.3
142
89.5
183.5
.48
1
10.47
7.65
A=3.5, .196
5.9
0.05
27.7
56.5x21.9x38
220
88.0
264.0
2.17
15.37
11.40
174
5.9
0.05
35.7
56.5x21.9x38
297
354/231
2.89/1.86
1,820
20
2.0-80º W
240/120
0.6
1.5
5.90
0.05
57
83x33x48
456
Runs on #1 & #2 diesel, kerosene, JP-8 or Jet A
4
5
Reset Button Room Thermostat Plug
Control Lamp Power Cord
Main Switch
Regulation of Electrodes
HVF110
HVF210
HVF310
HVF410HD
Note: 1/16” = 1.6 mm
6
pg. 6
For additional details see advanced troubleshooting (page 8).
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ADVANCED TROUBLESHOOTING
Motor and transformer do not operate.
auses:
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1. Incorrect or low voltage supplied to the heater.
2. Fuse in heater is blown.
3. Thermostat defective, or not turned up to call for heat.
4. Control board is defective.
5. Reset button has not been reset.
Solutions:
1. Incorrect or low voltage supplied to the heater. Most indirect oil heaters require a minimum of 108 volts to operate properly. A multi-meter set to measure volts can be used to check the amount of voltage at the end of the extension cord(s). If the measured voltage is too low, the length of the extension cord (s) must be shortened or a thicker gauge extension cord must be used.
2. Fuse in heater is blown. Locate and remove the in-line fuse of the heater. Set a multi-meter to measure ohms of resistance. Place a multi-meter probe on each end of the fuse. The multi-meter should read zero ohms (continuity) or the fuse is blown. If a new fuse blows immediately, check for possible causes. Check for incorrect voltage to the heater. Make sure the total amperage draw of all equipment running on the circuit is not too great. If the supplied voltage and total amperage draw are correct, check the wiring in the heater for correctness and possible shorts.
3. Thermostat is defective or not turned up to call for heat. Turn the thermostat up to the highest possible setting and try to start the heater. Next set a multi-meter to measure voltage coming out of the thermostat. If approximately 120 volts is not measured, the thermostat is defective.
4. Control board is defective. Using a multi-meter set for volts, check the hot and neutral wires which bring voltage into the control board. If proper voltage is reaching the board then the control board is defective.
5. Reset button has not been reset. Push the reset button and try to start the heater.
Motor does not start, but ignition spark is present
Causes:
1. Control board is defective.
2. Motor is defective.
3. Motor start capacitor is defective.
4. Fuel pump seized
Solutions:
1. Control board is defective.Locate the terminals of the control board that connect to the motor wires. Use a multi-meter set to read voltage and check for approximately 120 volts to the motor when the heater is turned on. If no voltage is observed the control board is defective.
2. Motor is defective. If the control board and the motor start capacitor check ok and the fuel pump is not seized, the motor is defective.
3. Motor start capacitor is defective. The capacitor may be tested using a multi-meter set to the lowest possible ohm range. First “short” the capaci­tor by momentarily placing a screwdriver across the two capacitor terminals. Then place the multi-meter probes on the two capacitor terminals. The multi-meter should read close to zero ohms (continuity) first, then slowly move to infinity on the multi-meter. If not then the capacitor is defective.
4. Fuel pump seized. With the heater unplugged, stand behind the heater and attempt to turn the fan blade clockwise by hand. If the fan blade is difficult to turn, undo the connection between the motor shaft and the pump shaft. Attempt turning the fan blade again. If the motor now turns freely, the pump has seized up. If the fan blade is still difficult to turn, the motor is defective.
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Motor runs, spark is present, but there is no fuel spray
Causes:
1. Spray nozzle clogged. . Fuel pump is defective/or broken pump coupling
2
3. Air entering the fuel pump thru the inlet line.
4. Solenoid valve is defective.
5. Control board is defective.
6. Fuel filter is dirty.
7. Safety thermostat defective or tripped or improper ducting.
8. Air proving switch defective.
Solutions:
1. Spray nozzle clogged. Remove and inspect the spray nozzle. Clean or replace as needed. Do not clean the nozzle orifice with anything metal
as this may enlarge the orifice.
2. Fuel pump is defective. The output pressure of the fuel pump can be checked by placing a high pressure fuel gauge into the gauge port of the
fuel pump. Use a gauge with enough capacity to measure the high pressure your particular heater can produce. Use the adjustment on the pump to set the pump pressure to the manufacturer’s specification. If you do not have a fuel gauge, you may slightly loosen the pump’s output line con­nection and place a rag there. Run the heater briefly and see if fuel reaches the rag. If no fuel is pumped, check the connection between the motor and the fuel pump to make sure the motor can turn the pump. Also check the external and internal fuel filters for blockage, and clean or replace if necessary. The fuel pumps internal filter is usually located where the fuel inlet line enters the pump. Check to make sure motor is rotating pump.
3. Air entering the fuel pump thru the fuel inlet line. If air enters the pump it will lose its prime and will not maintain adequate pump pressure. First
make sure all fittings, including the fuel filter on the inlet line are tight. If you still suspect air is entering the pump, start eliminating portions of the inlet line until the air leak is found. Start this process at the fuel tank end of the inlet line. It may be necessary to draw fuel from a small container rather than the fuel tank.
4. Solenoid valve is defective. Use a multi-meter set to measure volts. Check for approximately 120 volts at the ends of the two wires that carry
voltage to the solenoid valve. If proper voltage is read, try cleaning the valve if it is dirty. If the valve will not open fully to allow fuel spray, the sole­noid valve is defective. If proper voltage is not read, check for voltage on the control board terminals that the solenoid valve wires connect to. If proper voltage is read, the solenoid valve wires are defective. If voltage is not read on the board terminals, the control board is defective.
5. Control board is defective. Use a multi-meter set to measure voltage. Check for proper voltage on the two board terminals that the solenoid
valve wires connect to. If proper voltage is read, the control board is ok. If proper voltage is not read, the control board is defective.
6. Fuel filter dirty. Check the external and internal fuel filters and clean or replace as necessary. Most fuel pumps contain an internal fuel filter
located where the inlet line enters the fuel pump.
7. Safety thermostat defective or tripped. Also called overheat switch. Some indirect oil heaters have a safety thermostat wired between the con-
trol board and the solenoid valve. If the heater becomes too hot this normally closed switch will open and interrupt power to the solenoid valve. Use a multi-meter set to measure ohms. Place the multi-meter probes on the two male terminals of the safety thermostat. If the multi-meter shows
infinity (no continuity) the safety thermostat is defective. If the switch opens up before the heater becomes hot, the safety thermostat is defective.
8. Air proving switch is defective. Try to start the heater without ducting. Indirect oil heaters have an air proving switch wired between the control board and the solenoid valve. The air proving switch is normally open and requires air from the turning fan blade to close the switch and send power to the solenoid valve. Set a multi-meter to measure voltage. With the fan blade turning, check for voltage coming out of the air proving switch to the solenoid valve. If no voltage is read, next check for voltage at the control board terminals out to the air proving switch. If voltage at the control board is read, the air proving switch is defective. If no voltage is read at the board, the control board is defective.
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Motor runs, fuel sprays, but no spark is observed
Causes:
1. Electrodes damaged or gapped incorrectly.
2. Transformer defective.
3. Control board defective.
Solutions:
1. Electrodes damaged or gapped incorrectly. Inspect the electrode tips for melting. Make sure there are no cracks in the porcelain insulation. Check the electrodes with the manufacturer’s specifications for gapping and spacing. Adjust or replace the electrodes as needed.
2. Transformer defective. Transformers require a ground connection to function properly. Check the transformer’s ground wire or mounting tabs for a good ground connection. Use a multi-meter set to measure voltage. Check the voltage in to the transformer from the control board for approxi­mately 120 volts. Do not attempt to measure the transformer’s output voltage with an ordinary multi-meter. The transformer may also be bench tested for proper output arc.
3. Control board defective. Use a multi-meter set to measure voltage. Take a voltage reading on the control board terminals that send input power to the transformer. If proper voltage is not present, the control board is defective.
Motor runs, fuel sprays, spark is present, but heater will not ignite
Causes:
1. Pump pressure incorrect.
2. Electrodes damaged or gapped incorrectly.
3. Nozzle dirty or worn.
4. Air damper setting is incorrect.
5. Transformer output is weak.
6. Ducting is improper.
7. Venting is improper.
8. Fuel contains water or contaminants.
Solutions:
1. Pump pressure incorrect. Using a high pressure fuel gauge, check the output pressure of the fuel pump. If necessary, use the pump’s adjust­ment to set the pump pressure to the manufacturer’s specifications.
2. Electrodes damaged or gapped incorrectly. Inspect the electrode tips for melting. Make sure there are no cracks in the porcelain insulation. Check the electrodes with the manufacturers specifications for gapping and spacing. Adjust or replace the electrodes as needed.
3. Nozzle dirty or worn. Clean the nozzle using compressed air. Never use anything metal to clean the nozzle as this may enlarge the orifice. With enough use, fuel traveling under high pressure thru the nozzle orifice can enlarge the orifice. This is especially true when diesel fuel is used. Clean or replace the nozzle as needed.
4. Air damper setting is incorrect. Use the manufacturers specifications for the air damper setting and adjust as needed.
5. Transformer output is weak. Remove the transformer and perform a bench test.
6. Ducting is improper. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations concerning maximum duct length and diameter.
7. Venting is improper. Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for venting.
8. Fuel contains water or contaminants. Visually inspect the fuel in the tank for water bubbles or contaminants. Drain, flush, and re-fill tank as needed.
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eater ignites, runs less than one minute and shuts down
H
Causes:
1. Photocell is dirty, misaligned or defective.
2. Control board is defective. . Fuel pump defective.
3
4. Fuel filter dirty.
Solutions:
1. Photocell is dirty, misaligned or defective. Check that the photocell is aimed correctly and is free of dirt. If necessary, clean the photocell “eye”
with a soft, dry cloth. Unfortunately no test exists for the photocell. Attempting to “jumper out” the photocell will not test the function. You must either replace the photocell or borrow a known functioning photocell from an identical heater.
2. Control board is defective. If the heater’s spray and spark are correct, the photocell and control board must work together to recognize the com-
bustion flame has become established. Therefore if a new photocell does not correct this symptom, the control board is defective.
3. Fuel pump is defective. If the fuel pump will not achieve or maintain proper output pressure, the fuel pump is defective. Check the pump’s output
pressure with a gauge.
4. Fuel filter dirty. Inspect the internal and external fuel filters and clean or replace as needed.
Heater ignites, runs several minutes, then shuts down.
Causes:
1. Fuel pump is defective.
2. Solenoid valve is defective.
3. Overheat thermostat is defective.
4. Ducting is improper.
5. Venting is improper.
6. Nozzle is dirty.
7. Fuel filter is dirty.
8. Control board is defective.
9. Fuel contains water or contaminants.
Solutions:
1. Fuel pump is defective. If the fuel pump will not achieve or maintain proper output pressure, the pump is defective. Check the fuel pump output
pressure with a gauge.
2. Solenoid valve is defective. Use a multi-meter set to measure voltage. Check for proper voltage at the solenoid valve. If proper voltage is read
and the solenoid valve will not stay open and allow fuel spray, the solenoid valve is defective.
3. Overheat thermostat is defective. Also called a safety thermostat or limit switch. Some heaters are equipped with this. Set a multi-meter to mea-
sure ohms of resistance. Perform this test immediately after the heater shuts down and the overheat thermostat is still hot. Place the multi-meter probes on the two male terminals of the safety thermostat. If the multi-meter reads infinity (no continuity) the safety thermostat is defective. Remember that if the heater is over firing due to high pump pressure, worn nozzle, or is improperly ducted or vented, the safety thermostat will heat enough to shut the heater off.
4. Ducting is improper. Always follow the manufacturer’s recommendations
regarding maximum duct length and diameter. Failure to do so can result in heat building up in the heater until the safety thermostat contacts open and shut the heater off.
11
5. Venting is improper. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations concerning proper venting. Failure to do so can result in heat building up in the eater until the safety thermostat contacts open and shut the heater off.
h
6. Nozzle is dirty. If dirt reaches the nozzle, the spray can be adversely affected and cause a shut down. If possible observe the spray pattern and
clean the nozzle as needed.
. Fuel filter dirty. Check the internal and external fuel filters. Clean or replace as needed.
7
8. Control board is defective. For the heater to function, the control board must send proper voltage to three components: motor, transformer and
solenoid valve. Using a multi-meter set to measure voltage, check the appropriate control board terminals for proper voltage out to these three components. If proper voltage to any of these three components is not observed, the control board is defective.
9. Fuel contains water or contaminants. Visually inspect the fuel in the tank for water bubbles or contaminants. Drain, flush, and re-fill as needed.
Heater ignites, but combustion is poor or uneven
Causes:
1. Fuel pump pressure is incorrect.
2. Nozzle dirty or worn.
3. Electrodes damaged or gapped incorrectly.
4. Fuel filter is dirty.
5. Air damper setting incorrect.
6. Whirl disk dirty or mis-aligned.
7. Ducting is improper.
8. Venting is improper.
9. Fuel contains water or contaminants.
Solutions:
1. Fuel pump pressure is incorrect. The output pressure of the fuel pump can be checked by placing a high pressure fuel gauge into the gauge port
of the fuel pump. Use a gauge with enough capacity to measure the high pressure your particular heater can produce. Use the adjustment on the pump to set the pump pressure to the manufacturer’s specifications.
2. Nozzle dirty or worn. Clean the nozzle using compressed air. Never use anything metal to clean the nozzle as this may enlarge the orifice. With
enough use, fuel traveling under high pressure thru the nozzle orifice can enlarge the orifice. This is especially true when diesel fuel is used. Clean or replace the nozzle as needed.
3. Electrodes damaged or gapped incorrectly. Inspect the electrode tips for melting. Make sure there are no cracks in the porcelain insulation.
Check the electrodes with the manufacturer’s specifications for gapping and spacing. Adjust or replace the electrodes as needed (page 5/17).
4. Fuel filter is dirty. Inspect the internal and external fuel filters and clean or replace as needed.
5. Air damper setting incorrect. Use the manufacturer’s specifications for the air damper setting and adjust as needed. (see Diagram B, page 17)
6. Whirl disk dirty or mis-aligned. Inspect the whirl disk and clean if necessary. If the disk is warped or mis-aligned, replace or adjust as needed.
7. Ducting is improper. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations concerning maximum duct length and diameter.
8. Venting is improper. Follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for venting.
9. Fuel contains water or contaminants. Visually inspect the fuel in the tank for water or contaminants. Drain, flush, and re-fill tank as needed.
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