Hale Rear Mount User Manual

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MAINTENANCE MANUMAINTENANCE MANU

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A Hale pump is a quality product; ruggedly designed, accurately machined, carefully assembled and thoroughly tested. In order to maintain the high quality of your pump and to keep it in a ready condition, it is important to follow the instructions on care and operation. Proper use and good preventive maintenance will lengthen the life of your pump.

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Failure to follow the operating, lubrication, and maintenance requirements set forth in the operating and instruction manual may result in serious personal injury and/or damage to equipment.

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HALE PRODUCTS INC. A Unit of IDEX Corporation 700 Spring Mill Avenue 610/825-6300 www.haleproducts.com Rev 1, 6/2002

Fax: 610/825-6440

Fire Suppression Division

Conshohocken, PA 19428

Limited Warranty

EXPRESS WARRANTY: Hale Products Inc. (“Hale”) hereby warrants to the original buyer that products manufactured by it are free of defects in material and workmanship for two (2) years or 2000 hours usage whichever shall first occur. The “Warranty Period” commences on the date the original buyer takes delivery of the product from the manufacturer.

LIMITATIONS: HALE’S obligation is expressly conditioned on the Product being:

• Subjected to normal use and service.

• Properly maintained in accordance with HALE’S Instruction Manual as to recommended services and procedures.

• Not damaged due to abuse, misuse, negligence or accidental causes.

• Not altered, modified, serviced (non-routine) or repaired other than by an Authorized Service Facility.

• Manufactured per design and specifications submitted by the original Buyer.

THE ABOVE EXPRESS LIMITED WARRANTY IS EXCLUSIVE. NO OTHER EXPRESS WARRANTIES ARE MADE. SPECIFICALLY EXCLUDED ARE ANY IMPLIED WARRANTIES INCLUDING, WITHOUT LIMITATIONS, THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE OR USE; QUALITY; COURSE OF DEALING; USAGE OF TRADE; OR PATENT INFRINGEMENT FOR A PRODUCT MANUFACTURED TO ORIGINAL BUYER’S DESIGN AND SPECIFICATIONS.

EXCLUSIVE REMEDIES: If Buyer promptly notifies HALE upon discovery of any such defect (within the War-

ranty Period), the following terms shall apply:

• Any notice to HALE must be in writing, identifying the Product (or component) claimed defective and circumstances surrounding its failure.

• HALE reserves the right to physically inspect the Product and require Buyer to return same to HALE’S plant or other Authorized Service Facility.

• In such event, Buyer must notify HALE for a Returned Goods Authorization number and Buyer must return the Product F.O.B. within (30) days thereof.

• If determined defective, HALE shall, at its option, repair or replace the Product, or refund the purchase price (less allowance for depreciation).

• Absent proper notice within the Warranty Period, HALE shall have no further liability or obligation to Buyer therefore.

THE REMEDIES PROVIDED ARE THE SOLE AND EXCLUSIVE REMEDIES AVAILABLE. IN NO EVENT SHALL HALE BE LIABLE FOR INCIDENTAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGE’ INCLUDING, WITHOUT LIMITATION, LOSS OF LIFE; PERSONAL INJURY; DAMAGE TO REAL OR PERSONAL PROPERTY DUE TO WATER OR FIRE; TRADE OR OTHER COMMERCIAL LOSSES ARISING, DIRECTLY OR INDIRECTLY, OUT OF PRODUCT FAILURE.

Hale Products Inc. • A Unit of IDEX Corporation

700 Spring Mill Avenue • Conshohocken, PA. 19428

Phone: 610-825-6300 • Fax: 610-825-6440

IDEX CORPORATION

www.haleproducts.com

OPERATION

The following instructions apply when the pump is to be put into operation immediately after arrival at the fire. If standing by without pumping, the pump should not be engaged.

WORKING FROM HYDRANT

1. Close all discharge valves and drain valves.

2. Open and flush hydrant. Attach hose from pump to hydrant. Open hydrant.

3. Bleed air from supply hose

4. With engine at idle, engage pump.

5. Open discharge valve.

6. Increase engine throttle gradually until desired pressure is reached. If the compound gauge

shows a vacuum before the desired pressure is reached, it is an indication that you are getting all the water the hydrant will supply. In this case, the only way to get more pressure is to reduce flow.

7. Open the valve to the heat exchanger to cool the engine (if so equipped)

8. To maintain the desired pump discharge pressure, set the relief valve or engine governor

according to the instructions on the applicable cross-sectional drawing or manual.

Caution: For the sake of the hydrant water system, it is not good practice to reduce the pressure on the compound gauge below zero. Disregarding this could result in serious damage to the water mains.

Another good guide is to watch the pressure gauge as you open the engine throttle. If the engine speed increases without a corresponding increase in pressure, the pump is “running away” from the water or cavitating. In this case, close the throttle slowly until the pressure begins to drop and the engine speed becomes reasonable. There is nothing to be gained by going beyond this point.

WORKING FROM DRAFT

Get as close to the water as possible. The pump will do better than its rated capacity at its rated vertical lift. As the vertical lift increases, the pump capacity will decrease. This rule applies to all makes and types of pumps.

1. Attach Suction hose to pump, put strainer on the opposite end and submerge strainer in

water. It is very desirable to have two feet or more water over the strainer. Keep the strainer off the bottom and keep sand, leaves or other foreign matter away from strainer. No pump has ever been built which will pump water with foreign matter without causing some damage or excessive wear to the pump. Your Hale pump will handle such water with as little damage resulting to the pump as any fire pump on the market - possibly less damage - but we do not recommend such abuse unless there is no other way to stop a fire. Be sure all suction hose couplings and suction tube caps are tight.

2. Close all discharge valves, drain valves and drain cocks.

3. With engine at idle, engage pump. Keep engine speed below fast idle, not more than

approximately 1000 RPM. Nothing can be gained by running the engine at high speed while priming.

4. Start the priming pump by pulling the priming handle. In 10 to 30 seconds water will enter

the main pump and the pressure will rise. Open the discharge valve slowly and lock in position.

DO NOT RELEASE THE PRIMING HANDLE UNTIL A FULL, STEADY STREAM IS FLOWING THROUGH THE DISCHARGE HOSE. If the

priming pump does not discharge water in 30 seconds, do not continue to run. Stop and look for air leaks.

5. Open throttle gradually until the desired pressure is reached. Regulate valve for

cooling engine and set the pressure governor or relief valve. As the throttle is opened, the pressure should build up as the engine speed increases. Should the engine speed go up without a corresponding increase in pressure, the pump is

cavitating or “running away” from the water. There are two possibilities that can lead to this condition.

a. The first can occur only on high vertical lifts with several short lines. Having large tips and thereby pumping large volumes. The remedy for this is to reduce flow.

b. The second occurs when pumping air with water due to air leaks. Even though primed, air leaks can cause rough operation and an increase of engine speed without a corresponding increase in the pressure. If this is the case, eliminate air leak as described under maintenance.

If a shutdown is needed when working from draft – for changing discharge hose or for any other reason – simply lower the pressure to about 30 Psi and close discharge valves. Closing the discharge valves will prevent pump from losing its water if there are no air leaks. To resume pumping, simply open the discharge valves and throttle. If the pump gets hot from continued churning without flow, open a discharge valve periodically to release hot water or disengage pump.

WORKING FROM BOOSTER TANK

1. Close all pump discharges.

2. Open the valve between the tank and pump suction.

3. With engine at idle, engage pump.

4. Engage priming pump, prime and proceed as described under “Working from Draft”.

5. When pumping from tank, avoid cavitation. Small suction piping will not handle large volumes.

FINAL TEST BEFORE HOUSING PUMPER

After the instructions on maintenance and lubrication have been followed, close all discharge valves booster line valves and drain valves. Tighten suction caps. Engage pump and prime until compound gauge shows about 20 inches of vacuum. If vacuum falls more than 10 inches in 10 minutes, it is an indication of an air leak which must be eliminated before pump can be considered in serviceable condition. Air leaks may often be detected by ear if the engine is stopped.

It is advisable to test the suction hose by this same method at frequent intervals. This can be done by attaching the suction hose to the pump and placing suction tube caps on end of suction hose in place of strainer.

If air leaks can not be detected by the above vacuum test, it is advisable to test the pump hydrostatically. To do this, connect the pump to a source of water, such as a hydrant, and look for leaks

NOTES

Air leaks will cause high engine speed in relation to pressure.

Foreign matter in impellers will cause high engine speed and less than normal volume.

When working from draft, do not pump volumes large enough to cause a whirlpool at the strainer. This will allow air to get into the pump and result in rough operation and pulsation. If more water is needed, try to get a better submergence for the strainer.

LUBRICATION

PEDESTAL

The pump shaft bearings are supplied with oil from the pedestal housing. Use a premium grade of multirange SAE EP-90 oil. Fill to oil level plug. Do not use a heavier oil or too much oil. Drain oil and renew every six months.

MAINTENANCE

Except for lubrication, this pump requires very little attention. The little required, however, is important.

During freezing weather, be sure to drain all water out of the pump. This can be done in the following manner:

Open discharge valves, remove suction tube and discharge valve caps. Open all drain valves and cocks (gauge lines, valves and cooling lines, etc.). After the pump is completely drained, all the caps should be replaced and the valves closed. Do not put off closing the drains or valves until later, as forgetting to close them may result in failure to prime the pump when attempting to work from draft.

In some installations, the pump mounting angle may prevent complete draining of the drive unit cooling tube. If the pump cannot be protected from freezing temperatures, it is advisable to install a fitting in the cooling line so that the line can be blown out with air. After pumping salt water, connect the pump to a fresh water hydrant or other source of fresh water and pump for a few minutes to clean out the salt water. If you have been forced to pump water containing sand or other foreign matter, do the same as stated above for salt water, flushing out discharge valves, relief valve, gauge and cooling lines.

GASKETS AND WASHERS

Inspect the suction hose rubber washers and the washers and the washers in suction tube caps frequently. Foreign matter under these washers or faulty washers will cause air leaks which may prevent getting water when working from draft and even if you get water, will cause an irregular pulsating stream.

SEAL REPLACEMENT

RMB (Plate #726); RMC (Plate #725)

TO REPLACE PUMP SEAL

1. Disconnect heat exchanger line tubes (where applicable), priming line tube, and gauge line

tubes.

2. Remove the screws which hold the pump volute body to the pump head and tap casing free

with a soft hammer.

3. Remove cotter pin from impeller lock nut (where applicable).

4. Loosen impeller lock nut or capscrew (where applicable) several rotations. Do not remove it yet.

5. To remove impeller, put a flat pry bar on each side of impeller between it and pump head. The pry bars should bear against impeller disc opposite the impeller vanes. Tap end of shaft with a soft hammer, while maintaining pressure on pry bars, until impeller comes off. Do not put too much pressure on the pry bars. Application of heat may be necessary. Use a torch to slowly heat the impeller hub area until the impeller comes loose. Remove the impeller lock nut (or capscrew and washer) and impeller.

CAUTION: Impeller, nut and shaft may be hot and cause burns. Use proper protective gloves while handling the parts.

6. After the impeller and impeller key have been removed, the seal parts can then be removed for inspection. The seal should be replaced.

7. In replacing the seal, insert the stationary seal seat and the rubber seal with the seal surface toward you into the pump head using pac seal lubricant.

8. Wipe a little pac seal lubricant on the inside of the steel and rubber encased carbon sealing washer. Then, slide this assembly on the shaft with the carbon wearing lip toward the seal seat.

CAUTION: Se sure to keep the seat and sealing washer wearing surfaces clean, and be careful not to damage the lip on the sealing washer.

9. Spray loctite primer N on the mating surfaces of the shaft and impeller. Allow to dry.

10. Place the seal spring, smaller diameter end, on pilot of sealing washer.

11. Apply loctite #640 to entire mating surface of shaft (where contacts the impeller) and to the threads on the shaft.

12. Insert impeller key into shaft and apply loctite #640.

13. Push impeller onto shaft, making certain the seal spring seats in the spring bore of the impeller.

14. Replace the impeller, lock nut and the 5/32" x 2" cotter pin or the capscrew and washer (where applicable). Follow torquing instructions on appropriate cross-section plate.

15. Using a greased gasket and new sealing capscrews, bolt the Volute body to the pump head.

CLEARANCE RINGS

There are two replaceable clearance rings or wear rings in these pumps. One is pressed into the pump head, and the other is pressed into the pump body.

CHECKING PUMPER PERFORMANCE

Periodic checks should be made to determine if the pumper performance has dropped from its original efficiency. Every fire pump has an underwriters rating as shown:

RATING EXAMPLE

Rated capacity at 150 PSI 750 GPM at 150 PSI Rated capacity at 165 PSI 750 GPM at 165 PSI 70% Capacity at 200 PSI 525 GPM at 200 PSI 50% capacity at 250 PSI 375 GPM at 250 PSI

The current underwriters rated capacities covering all pumps are 500, 750, 1000, 1250, 1500, 1750, 2000, 2500 and 3000 GPM.

GAUGES & LAYOUTS

To accurately test a pumper for performance, a pitot gauge and a pump pressure gauge, both gauges tested for accuracy, are required. Gauge testing can be done with a dead weight gauge tester. Pumpers should be tested from draft at not over a 10 foot lift with 20 feet of suction hose. 1500 GPM and higher rated pumpers frequently require two separate 20 foot lengths of suction hose and larger pumps utilize lower lifts down to 6 feet.

Smooth bore nozzles of accurate size should be used with the pitot gauge. The volume pumped is then determined by referring to tables which show GPM flow in relation to nozzle size and the pitot gauge reading. Nozzles should preferably be used on a siamese deluge gun for greatest accuracy. A stream straightener, just upstream of the nozzle, is advisable.

For the 500 and 750 test, two 2-1/2" lines should preferably be laid from the pumper to the nozzle. Since deluge guns are not always available, other hose layouts may be made such as one 2-1/2" line to a 1-3/8” tip for 500 GPM. In general, the nozzle used on one 2-1/2" hose should not be larger than 1-1/2" for accuracy of measuring GPM. For another example, two separate 2-1/2" lines with a 1-1/4” nozzle on one and a 1-1/2” nozzle on the other would pass 1000 GPM flow. The sum of the flow from both nozzles is, of course, the GPM delivered by the pump. For good pitot gauge accuracy the nozzle pressures should be between 40 and 85 PSI.

Since the underwriters ratings specify both GPM and pressure, it is usually necessary to restrict the flow somewhat in order to build up the pump pressure. In normal pumping, this restriction would be caused by the friction loss in the lines. However, depending on line loss alone would require a large amount of hose for some tests. For example, testing a 500 GPM pumper at 250 GPM and 250 PSI requires 72 PSI nozzle pressure on a 1" tip. To reduce the pressure from 250 PSI at the pump to 72 PSI at the nozzle would require over 1300 feet of 2-1/2" hose. Therefore, it is common practice to use 50 feet or 100 feet of hose and gate the discharge valves as required.

TESTING AT CAPACITY

The pumper should first be tested for capacity, for instance, 750 GPM at 150 PSI. It is best to run at capacity for 20 to 30 minutes to be sure there will be no overheating or loss of power. If the pumper will not reach capacity at the rated pressure, it needs a thorough check-up.

Assuming the pumper does reach capacity, it is then desirable to know how much reserve is available. If there is some reserve at capacity the engine throttle will not have been wide open. Now open the throttle wide. The pump pressure will increase, and the flow will also increase. Gate the discharge valves slightly until the nozzle pressure (and flow) is the same as during the capacity run. A 10% increase in pressure (150 to 165 PSI) indicates that the pumper has reasonable reserve and that the engine is delivering ample power and that the pump is in good condition. No increase, or a one to two percent increase in pressure when the throttle is opened wide may indicate that performance has dropped.

Test performance should be compared to the performance at the time of delivery. Test records should be on file with the pumper delivery papers. If not, they may be procured from the manufacturer of the apparatus or from the local Underwriters. If the pumper performance has dropped appreciable compared to its original performance, it is in need of service.

TESTING PRESSURE

The pumper should now be checked at 7/10 capacity at 200 PSI, and 1/2 capacity at 250 PSI. If the apparatus fails to pump its required volume at either 200 or 250 PSI, it should be thoroughly checked.

Compare results with performance of the pumper when new. An appreciable drop indicates need for service.

ENGINE SPEED

Engine speed is important on all four tests and should be recorded, and compared to the original speeds at time of delivery. Engine RPM should not exceed the engine manufacturers recommended no load governed speed. Engine speed can, to some extent, be a guide to the condition of the pump.

A substantially higher engine speed on any one of the tests, compared to the speed on the same test when the pumper was new, can indicate air leaks, a restricted suction hose or strainers, foreign matter within the pump, especially impellers, or too high a lift. A low engine speed, together with poor pump performance indicates lack of engine power, worn clearance rings and/or bypassing. Relief valves, booster tank plumbing and valves, and sometimes central drains can all allow bypassing.

MISCELLANEOUS

During the tests the priming system should be checked. See instructions under “Final Test Before Housing Pumper”.

The relief valve should also be checked.

PUMP TEST TROUBLESHOOTING

WHAT IS WRONG IF THE PUMPER DOES NOT MEET ITS CAPACITY AT ANY ONE OF THE FOUR TESTS

1. Low Engine Horsepower. This is especially true when engine speeds tend to be lower than the

original speeds when you are approaching or near, but can not obtain performance at the four test spots. Possible causes of low engine power:

! Throttle linkage or wiring not opening engine throttle fully. ! Ignition timing incorrect. ! Restricted fuel flow due to clogged filter bowl or other restriction. ! Engine running too hot.

The above causes are relatively simple to correct and sometimes can be adjusted immediately so the test can proceed.

These causes are more serious and indicated a thorough engine tune-up or other repairs are necessary:

! Slipping Clutch or lack of transmission lockup ! Exhaust restricted. ! Leaking or sticking valves.

2. Air Leaks. A frequent cause of low performance, recognized by excess motor speed, hose

pulsation and unsteady pressure gauge. Remedy - check pump for holding vacuum, find leaks. Sometimes these leaks are in the booster tank plumbing. Leaks can usually be heard when the motor is stopped. See instructions. Priming will be delayed by an excessively leaking packing gland.

3. Suction obstructions. These cause higher than normal engine speed and reduced capacity.

They also cause fluctuation of the pressure gauge and a high vacuum reading on the compound gauge.

The obstructions may be foreign matter such as grass or leaves on the suction hose strainer or in the pump suction tube strainer. To check the strainers, shut down and open a discharge valve very slightly, letting the water run back down the suction hose slowly. This will prevent the foreign matter from being flushed out so that it can be observed and the cause of the trouble determined.

The obstruction may be caused by a collapsed suction hose lining. Old or defective suction hose may have a loose lining that is pulled inward by a vacuum, substantially reducing the flow through the hose. It is difficult to see because the lining usually goes back into place when the hose is removed. Usually, however, there appears to be a low blister on the lining where it has pulled away from the carcass of the hose.

Remedy - replace the defective hose.

4. Foreign Matter in the impeller. This causes higher than normal engine speed and reduced

capacity. However, it does not cause an abnormally high vacuum on the compound gauge. To clean foreign matter out of the impeller, remove the suction tube and push the obstruction out of the impeller with a rod by hand. When the pump is open, it is well to check the “clearance” or “sealing” rings for abnormal wear. See “Worn Clearance Rings and Impeller Hubs”.

5. Lift too High. This will cause high engine speed, high vacuum, pump roughness and a pulsating

pressure gauge. Remedy - do not test at over 10 feet lift, with not more than 20 feet of suction hose.

NOTE: Larger pumps are rated at 6 feet of lift. Check pump rating chart.

6. By-Passing Around Pump. Recognized by reduced capacity and greater than normal throttle

opening.

Cause - relief valve control set at too low a pressure allowing main relief valve to bypass. Remedy: Reset control so relief valve closes. Booster tank fill line open. (Close this). Leaking valves in plumbing.

7. Worn Clearance Rings and Impeller Hubs. Since clearance ring replacement requires pump

disassembly, it is advisable to thoroughly check other possible causes of low-performance before assuming that clearance ring wear is the cause.

Clearance rings or “sealing” rings allow a negligible amount the internal bypass of water from the discharge side of the pump back to the suction. The radial clearance between the impeller hub and the clearance rings is only a few thousandths of an inch when new, effectively preventing a large bypass. In clear water they continue to effectively seal for hundreds of hours of pumping. In dirty or sandy water, the impeller hub and clearance ring will wear faster than in clean water. The more they wear the greater the bypass and the lower the performance. Also,

the greater the pressure at which the pump is operating, the larger will be the bypass and the more the performance will be reduced. When new, the clearance between the impeller hubs and the ring is approximately five to nine thousandths of an inch per side (.005-.009). Any increase will allow more bypass and lower performance, but when the pump is adequately powered, it should not be necessary to replace clearance rings and impellers until the average radial clearance reaches 15 to 20 thousandths or more.

If the clearance rings wear faster than the impeller hubs, it is necessary to replace only the clearance rings. This will largely reduce the bypass and restore the pump to near original performance. A complete restoration requires that the impellers also be replaced. Undersize clearance rings and replacement impellers are available through Hale Service Department.

SERVICE – PARTS – INFORMATION

If you have any questions concerning the pump or require service or replacement parts, contact the apparatus manufacturer or Hale Products, Conshohocken, Pennsylvania, 19428, telephone 610-825-6300, web address: www.haleproducts.com. Be sure to include the pump serial number which is recorded on the face of this manual. It is also stamped on the name plate attached to the drive unit.

ADDITIONAL TROUBLESHOOTING CHARTS

Table 4-1 lists the symptoms of some common problems and possible corrective measures. Before calling Hale or a Hale authorized parts service center for assistance, eliminate problem causes using Table 4-1. If you cannot correct a problem, please have the following information ready prior to calling the Hale Customer Service Technician Department for assistance. Customer Service Number: 610-825-6300.

q Pump Model and Serial Number q Pump Configuration Information q Observed Symptoms and Under What Conditions The Symptoms Occur

TABLE 1. HALE MIDSHIP PUMP TROUBLE ANALYSIS

CONDITION POSSIBLE CAUSE SUGGESTED CORRECTION PUMP WILL NOT ENGAGE

Standard transmission with Manual Pump Shift

Automatic Transmission with Manual Pump Shift Standard Transmission with Power Shift System

Clutch not fully disengaged or malfunction in shift linkage

Automatic transmission not in neutral position

Insufficient air supply in shift system

Check clutch disengagement. Drive shaft must come to a complete stop before attempting pump shift

Repeat recommended shift procedures with transmission in neutral position

Repeat recommended shift procedures.

Automatic Transmission With Power Shift System

Automatic transmission not in neutral position

Pump shift attempted before vehicle was completely stopped

Premature application of parking brake system (before truck comes to a complete stop

Insufficient air in shift system

Check system for loss of air supply.

Turn the engine off and employ shift override procedures as follows:

1. Hole is provided in shift shaft to

accomplish emergency shifting.

2. Complete shift of control in cab to neutral

and proceed to complete shift of lower

control manually. Repeat recommended shift procedures with transmission in neutral position.

Release braking system momentarily. Then reset and repeat recommended shifting procedures.