Page 1
SPECIFICATIONS
Wingspan:
58 in
[1475mm]
Weight:
Wing
Loading:
6 – 6.75 lb
[2695-3005 g]
22 – 24 oz/sq ft
[66 – 74 g/dm
Radio: 4-5 channel system
w/ 4 std servos (electric),
or 5 std servos (glow)
Engine: .46 –.55 cu in
[ 7.5 – 9cc] two-stroke,
.52 –.70 cu in
2
]
[8.5 – 11.5cc] four-stroke
]
Length:
52 in
[1320 mm]
Motor: RimFire .55 (42-60-480)
w/ APC 13 x 10 E-Prop
Wing Area: 633 sq in
[40.9 dm
2
WARRANTY
Great Planes® Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to
be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the
date of purchase. This warranty does not cover any component
parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great
Planes’ liability exceed the original cost of the purchased kit.
Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this
warranty without notice.
In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or
material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of
the final user-assembled product. By the act of using the
user-assembled product, the user accepts all resulting liability.
If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated
with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return
READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING CONSTRUCTION. IT CONTAINS IMPORTANT
INSTRUCTIONS AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND USE OF THIS MODEL.
this kit immediately in new and unused condition to the
place of purchase.
To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to
Hobby Services at the address below:
Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr. Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822 USA
Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as
much contact information as possible (daytime telephone
number, fax number, e-mail address), a detailed description of
the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon
receipt of the package the problem will be evaluated as quickly
as possible.
Champaign, Illinois
(217) 398-8970, Ext 5
airsupport@greatplanes.com
Entire Contents © Copyright 2009 GPMA1024 Mnl
Page 2
TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION ................................2
AMA .......................................2
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS .........................3
LITHIUM BATTERY HANDLING & USAGE ...........3
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE.....................3
Glow Engine Option & Required Parts.............3
Electric Motor Option & Required Parts ............4
Radio System Recommendations ................4
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED ...................4
Adhesives & Building Supplies...................4
Optional Supplies and Tools.....................4
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES ....................5
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS ......................5
KIT INSPECTION................................5
KIT CONTENTS.................................6
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS ................6
PREPARE FOR ASSEMBLY .......................7
ASSEMBLE THE WINGS..........................7
Aileron Servos & Control Horn Installation..........7
Main Landing Gear Installation .................11
Finish the Wings.............................12
ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE .....................13
Horizontal Stabilizer Installation.................13
Hinge the Elevator & Rudder ...................15
Servo, Pushrod & Control Horn Installation ........17
GLOW ENGINE INSTALLATION...................20
Fuel Tank Installation .........................21
Mount the Engine............................22
Rig the Throttle..............................23
ELECTRIC MOTOR INSTALLATION................25
Mount the Motor & ESC .......................25
Mount the Batteries ..........................27
FINAL ASSEMBLY .............................28
Radio Installation ............................28
Cowl Installation.............................30
Propeller & Spinner Installation .................31
Pilot Installation (Optional) .....................31
Apply the Decals ............................32
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY .................33
Install & Connect the Motor Battery ..............33
Check the Control Directions ...................33
Set the Control Throws........................34
Balance the Model (C.G.)......................34
Balance the Model Laterally....................35
PREFLIGHT ...................................35
Identify Your Model ...........................35
Charge the Radio Batteries ....................36
Balance Propellers...........................36
Ground Check & Range Check .................36
ENGINE & MOTOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS ........36
AMA SAFETY CODE............................37
CHECK LIST ..................................37
FLYING.......................................38
Fuel Mixture Adjustments .....................38
Takeoff ....................................38
Flight .....................................39
Landing ...................................39
Thank you for purchasing the Great Planes Zlin 526
Akrobat ARF! This sport scale model is patterned after the
original Zlin 526 Akrobat which was first seen at airshows
in the 1960’s. The Zlin, along with the famous de Havilland
Chipmunk, paved the road to the modern CAP, Extra, and
Edge aircraft era of today. Like its full-scale counterpart, the
Great Planes Zlin 526 is a good aerobatics trainer and is a
great 3rd airplane choice for a sport pilot who has mastered
the high-wing trainer and the low-wing sport plane.
If you’re a beginner who is a fan of scale airplanes, we
recommend starting with the Hobbico® NexStar™ 46 ARF
trainer (HCAA2025) and then moving on to the Great Planes
Cherokee GP/EP ARF (GPMA1033) sport scale low-wing
airplane before you try the Great Planes Zlin 526. When
you’re ready for another airplane, consider trying a kit. The
Great Planes CAP 232 40 Kit (GPMA0232) is an easy and
enjoyable build that will reward you with excellent flight
characteristics and the ability to perform high-performance
aerobatic maneuvers.
For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the
Zlin 526 Akrobat visit the Great Planes web site at www.
greatplanes.com. Open the “Airplanes” link, and then select
the Zlin 526 Akrobat ARF. If there is new technical information
or changes to this model a “tech notice” box will appear in
the upper left corner of the page.
AMA
Academy of Model Aeronautics If you are not already a
member of the AMA, please join! The AMA is the governing
body of model aviation and membership provides liability
insurance coverage, protects modelers’ rights and interests
and is required to fly at most R/C sites.
Academy of Model Aeronautics
5151 East Memorial Drive
Muncie, IN 47302-9252
Tele. (800) 435-9262
Fax (765) 741-0057
Or via the Internet at:
http://www.modelaircraft.org
IMPORTANT!!! Two of the most important things you can
do to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid
flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or over
groups of people.
2
Page 3
PROTECT YOUR MODEL, YOURSELF
& OTHERS… FOLLOW THESE
IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
LITHIUM BATTERY
HANDLING & USAGE
1. Your Zlin 526 Akrobat should not be considered a toy, but
rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very
much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance
capabilities, the Zlin 526 Akrobat, if not assembled and
operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or
spectators and damage to property.
2. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases
the instructions may differ slightly from the photos. In those
instances the written instructions should be considered as
correct.
3. You must take time to build straight, true and strong.
4. You must use an R/C radio system that is in good condition,
a correctly sized engine or motor, and other components as
specified in this instruction manual. All components must be
correctly installed so that the model operates correctly on
the ground and in the air. You must check the operation of the
model and all components before every flight.
5. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown
this type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for
your first flights. If you’re not a member of a club, your local
hobby shop has information about clubs in your area whose
membership includes experienced pilots.
WARNING!! Read the entire instruction sheet included with
the battery. Failure to follow all instructions could cause
permanent damage to the battery and its surroundings, and
cause bodily harm!
• ONLY use a LiPo approved charger.
• NEVER charge in excess of 4.20V per cell.
• ONLY charge through the “charge” lead. NEVER
charge through the “discharge” lead.
• NEVER charge at currents greater than 1C.
• ALWAYS set charger’s output volts to match
battery volts.
• ALWAYS charge in a fireproof location.
• NEVER trickle charge.
• NEVER allow battery temperature to exceed 150°
F (65° C).
• NEVER disassemble or modify pack wiring in any
way or puncture cells.
• NEVER discharge below 3.0V per cell
• NEVER place on combustible materials or leave
unattended during charge or discharge.
• ALWAYS KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.
6. While this ARF has been flight tested to exceed normal use,
if the plane will be used for extremely high stress flying, such
as racing, or if an engine larger than one in the recommended
range is used, the modeler is responsible for taking steps to
reinforce the high stress points and/or substituting hardware
more suitable for the increased stress.
7. WARNING: The cowl is made of fiberglass, the fibers of
which may cause eye, skin and respiratory tract irritation.
Never blow into or on a part to remove fiberglass dust, as
the dust will blow back into your eyes. Always wear safety
goggles, a particle mask and rubber gloves when grinding,
drilling and sanding fiberglass parts. Vacuum the parts and
the work area thoroughly after working with fiberglass parts.
We, as the kit manufacturer, provide you with a top quality,
thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the
quality and flyability of your finished model depends
on how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model,
and no representations are expressed or implied as to
the performance or safety of your completed model.
Remember: Take your time and follow the instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.
DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE
This is a partial list of items required to finish the Zlin
526 Akrobat that may require planning or decision
making before starting to build. Order numbers are
provided in parentheses.
Glow Engine Option & Required Parts
If you choose to equip your model with a glow engine, you
will need to purchase the items listed below. Either a twostroke or a four-stroke engine can be used. The glow engine
is mounted inverted.
3' [900mm] standard silicone fuel tubing
o
(GPMQ4131)
a suitable propeller per engine manufacturer’s
o
recommendation
®
O.S.
o
3
Needle Valve Extension kit (optional)
(OSMG7290)
Page 4
Two-Stroke Option
O.S. 46 AX two-stroke engine (OSMG0547)
o
O.S. Muffler Extension #873 (for 46AX engine
o
using a standard muffler) (OSMG2578)
OR
J’Tec JT-601 In-Cowl universal inverted muffler
o
(scale muffler) (JTCG7015)
Four-Stroke Option
O.S. FL-70 RC four-stroke engine (OSMG0876)
o
Electric Motor Option & Required Parts
ElectriFly
o
Outrunner motor (GPMG4715)
ElectriFly Medium Motor Mount (GPMG1255)
o
ElectriFly Silver Series 60A Brushless ESC
o
(GPMM1850)
APC 13 x 10 E-Prop (APCQ4140)
o
(2) Great Planes ElectriFly 11.1V, 3200mAh 20C
o
LiPo BP Series (GPMP0727)
OR
(2) Great Planes ElectriFly 11.1V, 3350mAh 25C
o
LiPo Power Series (GPMP0541)
Deans
o
6" [150mm] servo extension (for ESC signal lead)
o
(HCAM2701)
PolyCharge4
o
Equinox
o
12 Volt DC power supply (HCAP0250) (optional)
o
RC Electronics Watt’s Up Watt Meter
o
(RELP0100) (optional)
™
RimFire™ .55 (42-60-480) Brushless
®
Series 2 Male Ultra® adapter (GPMM3143)
™
LiPo battery charger (GPMM3015)
™
1-5 cell LiPo cell balancer (GPMM3160)
Radio System Recommendations
4 channel radio system
o
(4) Futaba
o
(FUTM0004)
Futaba NR4J 4.8V 600mAh Receiver Battery
o
(FUTM1280)
(2) 12" [300mm] servo extension (HCAM2711 for
o
Futaba)
6" Y-harness (FUTM4130)
o
J-Series Switch w/ Charge Plug (FUTM4370)
o
Switch & Charge Jack Mounting Set (GPMM1000)
o
Servo Mounting Screws (Set of 10) (FUTM2550)
o
®
S3004 Standard Ball Bearing Servo
ADDITIONAL ITEMS REQUIRED
To finish this airplane you will need the following items.
Adhesives and Building Supplies
3/8" x 3" Heat Shrink Tubing (GPMM1060)
o
R/C foam rubber 1/4" [6mm] thick (HCAQ1000)
o
Drill bits: 1/16" [1.6mm], 5/64" [2mm], #48
o
1 oz. [30g] Medium Pro
o
1 oz. [30g] Thin Pro CA (GPMR6002)
o
1 oz. [30g] Thin Foam-Safe CA (HOTR1040)
o
CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
o
CA debonder (GPMR6039)
o
Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
o
Epoxy brushes (6, GPMR8060)
o
Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055)
o
Mixing cups (GPMR8056)
o
Threadlocker
o
(GPMR6060)
Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510)
o
#64 rubber bands (1/4 lb [113g] box, HCAQ2020)
o
18" flexible steel rule (HCAR0460)
o
Hobbico Retractable Fabric Tape Measure
o
(HCAR0478)
6-32 tap and drill set (GPMR8102)
o
Tap handle (GPMR8120)
o
Pliers with wire cutter (HCAR0625)
o
Hobbico Heavy Duty Diagonal Cutter 7" (HCAR0627)
o
electric drill
o
Hobbico ball-end hex wrench set – metric
o
(HCAR0521)
Hobbico ball-end hex wrench set – SAE (HCAR0520)
o
(2) 1" [25mm] C-Clamps
o
Excel Small Clamp (EXLR5663)
o
Zona L-Square (ZONR3734)
o
Medium T-pins (100, HCAR5150)
o
Ea sy-To u ch
o
Sandpaper assortment
o
Masking tape (TOPR8018)
o
Electrical tape
o
Toothpicks, round
o
Denatured alcohol (for epoxy clean up)
o
™
thread-locking compound
™
Bar Sander 5.5" (GPMR6169)
™
CA+ (GPMR6008)
Optional Supplies and Tools
st
21
Century® sealing iron (COVR2700)
o
st
21
Century iron cover (COVR2702)
o
Rotary tool such as Dremel
o
Rotary tool reinforced cut-off wheel (GPMR8200)
o
Hobbico Z-bend pliers (HCAR2000)
o
4
®
Page 5
Hobby Heat
o
Dead Center
o
(GPMR 8130 )
Ac c uThr o w
o
CG Machine
o
Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer (TOPQ5700)
o
Robart Super Stand II (ROBP1402)
o
Great Planes 1/5
o
(GPMQ9062), blue (GPMQ9063), or yellow
(GPMQ9064)
™
micro torch (HCAR0755)
™
Engine Mount Hole Locator
™
Deflection Gauge (GPMR2405)
™
(GPMR2400)
th
scale Civilian Pilot (red)
IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES
There are several types of screws used in this kit:
•
instructions for application. Following are the colors used on
this model and order numbers for six foot rolls.
Jet White (TOPQ0204)
Royal Blue (TOPQ0221)
True Red (TOPQ0227)
Charcoal Metallic (TOPQ0407)
The stabilizer and wing incidences and engine thrust
•
angles have been factory-built into this model. However,
some technically-minded modelers may wish to check these
measurements anyway. To view this information visit the web
site at www.greatplanes.com and click on “Technical Data.”
Due to manufacturing tolerances which will have little or no
effect on the way your model will fly, please expect slight
deviations between your model and the published values.
Self-tapping or sheet metal screws
are designated by a number and a
length. For example, #6 x 3/4" [19mm].
Machine screws are designated by a
number, threads per inch, and a length.
For example, 4-40 x 3/4" [19mm].
Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS)
are designated by a number, threads
per inch, and a length. For example,
4-40 x 3/4" [19mm]
When you see the term test fit in the instructions, it
•
means that you should first position the part on the assembly
without using any glue, then slightly modify or custom fit
the part as necessary for the best fit.
Whenever the term glue is written you should rely upon
•
your experience to decide what type of glue to use. When
a specific type of adhesive works best for that step, the
instructions will make a recommendation.
Whenever just epoxy is specified you may use either
•
30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that
you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you
will need the working time and/or the additional strength.
Photos and sketches are placed before the step they
•
refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps
to get another view of the same parts.
COMMON ABBREVIATIONS
Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer
Fin = Vertical Stabilizer
LE = Leading Edge
TE = Trailing Edge
LG = Landing Gear
Ply = Plywood
" = Inches
mm = Millimeters
SHCS = Socket Head Cap Screw
ESC = Electronic Speed Control
LiPo = Lithium Polymer battery
3S = Three cells in series
mAh = Milliamp Hours (refers to the usable
capacity of a battery)
To convert inches to millimeters, multiply inches by 25.4
(25.4mm = 1")
KIT INSPECTION
Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make
sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure they
are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of
acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly,
contact Product Support. When reporting defective or
missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written
in the Kit Contents list.
The Zlin 526 Akrobat is factory-covered with Top Flite®
•
MonoKote® film. Should repairs ever be required, MonoKote
can be patched with additional MonoKote purchased
separately. MonoKote is packaged in six-foot rolls, but
some hobby shops also sell it by the foot. If only a small
piece of MonoKote is needed for a minor patch, perhaps a
fellow modeler would give you some. MonoKote is applied
with a model airplane covering iron, but in an emergency a
regular iron could be used. A roll of MonoKote includes full
Great Planes Product Support
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822
Telephone: (217) 398-8970, ext. 5
Fax: (217) 398-7721
E-mail: airsupport@greatplanes.com
5
Page 6
Order
Number
Description
REPLACEMENT PARTS LIST
How to
purchase
Instruction manual
Missing pieces
Full-size plans
Wing Set Zlin Akrobat
Fuselage Zlin Akrobat
Tail Set Zlin Akrobat
Landing Gear Zlin Akrobat
Cowl Zlin Akrobat
Canopy Hatch Zlin Akrobat
Decals Zlin Akrobat
Wing Tube Zlin Akrobat
GPMA3379
GPMA3380
GPMA3381
GPMA3382
GPMA3383
GPMA3384
GPMA3385
GPMA3386
Contact
Product Support
Not available
Contact your
hobby supplier
to purchase
these items
KIT CONTENTS
2
1
3
8
6
5
9
1 - Cowl
2 - Fuselage & Canopy/Hatch
3 - Rudder
4 - Horizontal Stabilizer w/Elevators
ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS
Replacement parts for the Great Planes Zlin 526 Akrobat
ARF are available using the order numbers in the
Replacement Parts List that follows. The fastest, most
economical service can be provided by your hobby dealer
or mail-order company.
7
4
10
5 - Engine Mount & Spinner
6 - Fuel Tank
9 - Wing Tube
10 - Wing Set
7 - Main Landing Gear
8 - Tail Gear
Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in
the Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card or
personal check only; no C.O.D.
If additional assistance is required for any reason contact
Product Support by e-mail at productsupport@greatplanes.
com, or by telephone at (217) 398-8970.
To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Hobbico web site at www.
hobbico.com. Choose “Where to Buy” at the bottom of the
menu on the left side of the page. Follow the instructions
provided on the page to locate a U.S., Canadian or
International dealer.
Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services by
calling (217) 398-0007, or via facsimile at (217) 398-7721,
but full retail prices and shipping and handling charges will
apply. Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged
sales tax. If ordering via fax, include a Visa or MasterCard
number and expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:
Hobby Services
3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1
Champaign IL 61822
6
Page 7
PREPARE FOR ASSEMBLY
1. Before you begin assembling your model, use a
o
covering iron set to a medium temperature (about 250°
F [121° C]) to tack down any loose or wrinkled covering.
Securely tack down the edges of trim and where seams
are present and around the aileron servo hatch covers. We
recommend using a Coverite™ (COVR2700) covering iron
with a sock (COVR2702).
ASSEMBLE THE WINGS
Aileron Servos & Control
Horn Installation
1. Locate the long servo arm that came with your servo.
o
For Futaba standard servos this is the arm that is already
installed on the servo. For other radio systems, please use
the arm that is at least 5/8" [15.9mm] long from the center
of the shaft to the outermost hole. Center two servos using
your radio. Remove the servo arm screw and reposition the
servo arm on the splined output shaft so that the arm is 90°
(perpendicular) to the servo case side. Clip off the unused
servo arms so that your servos look like those in the photo.
Install the servo arm screw.
2. Check the pre-hinged ailerons for secure attachment.
o
If necessary, add several drops of thin foam-safe CA to
each side of the hinges. Clean up any excess glue that runs
out of the hinge line using a paper towel. Allow the glue to
fully cure.
2. Use a #48 drill bit to drill the outermost servo arm hole
o
on both aileron servos. Install the servo mounting grommets.
Note: If you don’t have a numbered drill bit set, you may use
a hobby knife to carefully enlarge the servo arm hole. Work
slowly and keep checking the fit using the unthreaded end of
one of the 2-56 pushrods. Minimizing control slop now can
prevent poor flying characteristics (or even flutter) later.
7
Page 8
3. Cut out three 1/2" x 1" [13mm x 25mm] pieces of thin
o o
card stock (not supplied). You may use construction paper,
an old cereal box, or a manila folder for this purpose. Lay the
servo on a flat surface with the arm hanging down over the
edge of your table. Locate two 12 x 8 x 20mm hardwood
blocks. Position the blocks under the servo mounting tabs
and place a piece of card stock in the locations shown.
Holding the blocks and servo in position, use a 1/16" [1.6mm]
drill to drill four holes for the servo mounting screws.
6. Repeat steps 3 through 5 for the other aileron servo.
7. Mix up a small batch of 30-minute epoxy and apply it to
o
the hardwood blocks. Glue each servo block to its servo bay
cover. Use small clamps to hold the hardwood blocks tightly
in position. Position the clamps so that they are clamping the
hardwood directly. The clamps shown here are Excel 3-1/2"
[89mm] plastic clamps (EXLR5663).
4. Install the four servo mounting screws that came
o o
with your servo. Remove the screws and harden each of
the screw holes with thin CA. This will create a durable
screw thread in the wood. Let the CA cure and reinstall
the screws.
5. With the hardwood blocks attached and each servo
o o
arm still centered, position your servo on an aileron servo
bay cover so that the servo arm is centered in the opening
and exiting the opening. Please note: If you are using Futaba
servos, there are two laser-etched rectangles on each servo
bay cover which will help you position your servo.
8. Attach a 12" [305mm] servo lead extension to each
o
aileron servo. Use a piece of 3/8" [9.5mm] diameter heat
shrink tubing (not supplied) to secure the connection.
Route the servo lead through each wing using the supplied
guide string.
9. Route the other end of the servo lead through the hole
o
in the top of each wing.
8
Page 9
10. Find the pre-drilled holes at each corner of each servo
POSITION THE HORN
SO THAT THE HOLES
ARE DIRECTLY ABOVE
THE HINGE LINE.
o
bay cover. Use a T-pin to poke holes though the covering and
fit each servo bay cover to its wing. Use a 1/16" [1.6mm] drill
bit to drill four holes to attach the aileron servo bay covers
to the wing.
11. Locate eight #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] sheet-metal screws
o
and eight #2 flat washers. Thread these into the holes you
drilled. Remove the screws and the servo bay covers and
harden the screw holes with thin CA.
13. Working with one wing now, make a mark using
o o
a felt-tip pen directly behind the aileron servo arm. Use a
builder’s triangle or builder’s square to ensure that you mark
directly behind the servo arm.
12. Reinstall the aileron servo bay covers using the #2
o
screws and washers.
14. Locate one nylon control horn. Discard the
o o
backing plate that is attached to it. Center the horn along
the line you made. Center the horn fore and aft so that the
holes are directly above the hinge line (see sketch above).
Use a 1/16" [1.6mm] drill to drill two 1/2" [13mm] deep holes
for the control horn. Note: Do not drill through the aileron
completely. You may wrap a piece of masking tape around
the drill bit 1/2" [13mm] from the tip to act as a drill stop.
9
Page 10
15. Use two #2 x 1/2" [13mm] sheet-metal screws to
o o
attach the control horn to the aileron. Important: Remove
the screws and harden the holes with thin CA. Reinstall
the screws.
16. Repeat steps 13 through 15 for the other wing.
o
17. Locate the two 2-56 x 12" [305mm] threaded aileron
o
pushrods, two nylon clevises, and two silicone clevis retainers.
Slide a silicone retainer on each pushrod and thread each
clevis on so that at least 1/16" [1.6mm] of thread protrudes
past the clevis barrel.
19. Bend the pushrod 90° at the mark that you made.
o
Connect the pushrod to the outermost hole in the servo
arm. Install a nylon FasLink™ and cut the excess end of the
pushrod. If you use a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel, remove
the nylon FasLink™ before cutting the wire to avoid melting
the plastic. Do this for both wings.
18. Center your aileron servos using your radio. Place
o
a piece of tape across the inboard edge of the ailerons to
hold them in the neutral position during this step. Attach
each pushrod to the outermost hole of each aileron control
horn. Extend the pushrod forward and line it up with the
servo arm hole. Mark the pushrod at the hole.
20. With your radio still on, adjust the length of each
o
pushrod until the control surface is neutral (zero control
throw). You may do this by removing the clevis from the
control horn and rotating it to adjust the length of the pushrod.
Move the ailerons through their full rate of travel and check
for any interference between the linkages and the servo bay
covers. If necessary, trim away the opening in the servo bay
cover. When you’re done, slide the silicone clevis retainer
into position.
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Main Landing Gear Installation
1. Locate the four 4mm wheel collars. Fit two wheel collars
o
and a wheel onto the axles as shown. For each axle, mark
the position of the wheel collars on the axle. Use a fine-point
felt-tip pen and make the mark on the axle though the set
screw hole as shown. Remove the collars and the wheel.
4. Locate eight #4 x 1/2" [13mm] sheet-metal screws.
o
Temporarily install the landing gear hold-down straps using
these screws. Remove the screws and the straps and
harden the holes with one drop thin CA per hole. Note:
Using more than one drop can melt the foam core of the
wing, so be careful.
2. File a 1/8" [3.2mm] wide flat on each axle for each
o
wheel collar’s set screw. A metal file or a Dremel® tool with a
fiber-reinforced cutoff wheel attachment are recommended.
Install the wheels and wheel collars using a drop of threadlocking compound on the set screws. Apply a few drops of
light machine oil to the axles when you’re done.
3. Locate four flat nylon straps. Place these in the cutouts
o
provided on the wing and use a 3/32" [2.4mm] drill to make
two holes for each strap using the strap as a guide.
5. Install a completed landing gear leg into each wing as
o
shown. Install the landing gear hold-down straps and screws.
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Finish the Wings
1. For this section you will be working with epoxy. It is a
o
good idea to have some denatured alcohol and paper towels
on hand to help you clean up. Keep in mind that epoxy must
be cleaned up before it cures. We also recommend that you
have your epoxy brushes, mixing sticks (or toothpicks), and
mixing cups on hand. You can mix small amounts of epoxy
on a scrap sheet of paper.
3. Locate the one 1-3/8" [35mm] long hardwood dowel.
o
Test fit this in the root wing rib of each wing. If necessary,
sand the dowel until it fits. The dowel should protrude 5/8"
[16mm] from each root rib.
2. Locate the two 1-3/16" [30mm] long hardwood
o
dowels. Test fit these into the holes provided in the leading
edge of each wing. Each dowel should protrude 5/8" [16mm]
from the LE of the wing. If a dowel is too tight, wrap a piece
of 150-grit sandpaper around it and rotate the dowel to sand
off material. Sand off a little at a time and recheck the fit.
4. Mix up a batch of 30-minute epoxy. Coat the inside
o
of the two LE dowel holes and the inside of the left wing
anti rotation dowel hole. Coat each dowel with a thin layer of
epoxy. Install the dowels in their proper location. Make sure
that each dowel protrudes 5/8" [16mm]. Wipe up any excess
epoxy with some denatured alcohol and a paper towel. Also,
you may want to apply a thin coat of epoxy on the outer
portion of each LE dowel. Coat the dowel and wipe it off with
a dry paper towel. This leaves an ultra thin coat of epoxy and
makes the dowel more durable.
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5. With the epoxy fully cured, fit the aluminum wing tube
o
into one wing. Fit the other wing to the tube and join the
wings. If you have not done so already, please be sure to
route the servo leads through the hole in the top of the wing.
Note: While it is not necessary, some people may prefer to
permanently join the two wings.
If you want to be able to separate your wings, please skip the
next two steps and proceed to the next section, Assemble
the Fuselage.
7. Locate the two supplied nylon wing bolts and three #64
o
rubber bands (not supplied). Fit the wing bolts in the wing so
that each bolt is centered in the hole. Use two rubber bands
on the wing bolts (one on the top side and one on the bottom)
to draw the wing together. Fit a rubber band between the LE
wing dowels and let the epoxy cure.
ASSEMBLE THE FUSELAGE
Horizontal Stabilizer Installation
Once again, you’ll need to have your epoxy supplies nearby
and ready. You’ll also need a fabric measuring tape or a piece
of Kevlar thread to help you align the horizontal stab. Do not
use a regular string or thread. This will not allow you to obtain
an accurate alignment.
Note: If you are not familiar with the process of installing a
horizontal stabilizer through a slotted fuselage, please read
through the following steps and make sure you understand
what to do. A dry-run may be helpful, as steps 3 through 6
must be accomplished before the epoxy cures.
6. Mix up a generous-sized batch (about 1/4oz [7cc]) of
o
30-minute epoxy. Remove the wing tube and apply a thin
coat of epoxy to the outer surface of the tube. Fit the tube
to one wing. Apply a generous layer of epoxy to each wing
root rib and join the wings. Clean up any excess epoxy using
denatured alcohol and a paper towel.
1. Now that the wing is ready, install it onto the fuselage
o
using the two 1/4-20 nylon wing bolts.
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2. Test fit the horizontal stabilizer in the fuselage. Be
B = B'
B B'
C = C'
C C'
o
careful to install it so that the red, white and blue trim is
facing up. Check to see that the stab is parallel with the
wings. Distance A must equal distance A". If one side of the
stab is slightly higher than the other, try adding a few ounces
of weight to the high side to see if this will make the stab
parallel. If this does not work, gently sand the stabilizer slot
in the fuse using 150-grit sandpaper. Sticking the sandpaper
to a 1/2" [13mm] wide stick is helpful.
4. Re-center the stab by measuring the distance along
o
the TE from the tip of the stab to the fuselage side. Do this for
both sides of the stab, making B = B'. With the stab centered,
use a felt-tip pen to mark the TE of the stab on both sides.
Proceed to the next step.
3. Mix up a generous-sized batch of epoxy (about the same
o
amount you used when you joined your wings). Thoroughly
coat the uncovered center section of the stabilizer with
epoxy. Paying attention to the trim scheme, carefully slide
the stabilizer into the slot in the fuselage. Slide the stab past
center and re-coat the top and bottom of the stab center
section. Proceed immediately to the next step.
5. Using the marks you made to keep the TE of the stab
o
centered, measure from the tip of the stab to the TE of the
wing (not the aileron). Adjust the position of the stab until
distance C = C'. Check to see that your stab is properly
leveled and parallel with the wing, adding weight to the high
side (see step 4 above).
6. Clean up the excess epoxy using denatured alcohol
o
and paper towels. Set the airplane aside and allow the epoxy
to fully cure.
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Hinge the Elevator & Rudder
1. Locate six CA hinges. The hinges have a slit to help
o
the CA wick into them better. Push a T-pin into the center of
the hinge, just slightly away from the slit.
4. Check to see that the LE of each elevator can touch the
o
TE of the stab. If you are having trouble fitting the hinges, run
your hobby knife through the slot backwards so that the dull
side of the knife blade digs out the slot.
2. Test fit the six hinges in the horizontal stabilizer so that
o
the slit is perpendicular to the hinge line. The T-pin will keep
the hinge from going any deeper into the stab when you fit
the elevators.
3. Test fit the two elevators onto the horizontal stab. Align
o
the tip of each elevator with the tip of the stab.
5. When you’re satisfied with the fit of the elevators,
o
remove the T-pins. Deflect each elevator up and down a few
times while pushing the elevator up against the hinge line.
Apply at least five drops of thin CA to the top and bottom
side of each hinge while you hold the control surface at full
deflection. Use CA debonder applied to a paper towel to
clean up any excess CA. Allow the CA to cure.
6. Locate the tailwheel wire assembly, two 3/32" [2.4mm]
o
wheel collars, two 4-40 set screws, and the tailwheel.
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7. Fit the wheel collars (without the set screws) and the
o
wheel as shown. Mark the position of the wheel collars on
the axle using a felt-tip pen. Remove the wheel collars and
the tailwheel and grind flat spots on the axle.
8. Install the tailwheel using the wheel collars and the 4-40
o
set screws. Apply thread-locking compound to the set screw
threads. Apply a few drops of household oil to the hinge and
to the wheel.
10. With the tailwheel facing aft, test fit the rudder. Check
o
to see that the tailwheel is aligned with the rudder. If the
tailwheel needs adjustment, remove the tailwheel assembly
and bend the tailwheel wire into position. Remove the rudder
and tailwheel assembly. You may leave the hinges in place.
11. Clean the surface of the nylon hinge strap on the
o
tailwheel assembly with alcohol. Mix up a small batch of
30-minute epoxy. Use a toothpick to apply epoxy into the
tailwheel hinge slot on the fuselage. Apply some epoxy to the
nylon hinge strap. Fit the tailwheel assembly to the fuselage
as in step 9.
9. Prepare the three remaining CA hinges with T-pins and
o
fit them to the vertical stabilizer (fin). Fit the tailwheel wire
assembly to the base of the fin by sliding the large nylon
hinge into the slot in the fin.
12. Use a toothpick to apply epoxy in the tailwheel wire
o
hole in the rudder. Fit the rudder first onto the tailwheel wire
and then onto the CA hinges.
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13. Align the tip of the rudder with the tip of the vertical
o
stab. Deflect the rudder both directions a few times while
pushing the rudder forward into the TE of the vertical stab.
Remove the T-pins and apply five drops of thin CA to both
sides of each hinge. Clean up any mess with CA debonder
and allow the CA to cure.
Servo, Pushrod & Control
Horn Installation
3. Use four #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] sheet-metal screws to install
o
the elevator control horns. Remove the horns and carefully
wick one drop of thin CA into the screw holes. Allow the CA
to cure and then reinstall the horns.
4. Locate two 2-56 x 36" [914mm] one-end threaded
o
pushrods. Slide a silicone clevis retainer onto each pushrod
and thread a nylon clevis on so that at least 1/16" [1.6mm] of
thread protrudes past the clevis barrel.
1. Remove the wings and support the model using your
o
building stand. Measure 7/16" [11mm] from the inboard edge
of each elevator and make a mark using a felt-tip pen.
2. Locate two nylon control horns. Center a horn directly
o
over the mark you made, being careful to position the clevis
holes directly above the hinge line. Hold the horn in this
position and drill two 3/8" [9.5mm] deep holes using a 1/16"
[1.6mm] drill. Be careful not to drill through the elevator
completely. Do this for both elevators.
5. Insert the pushrods into the fuselage through the upper
o
pushrod guide tubes at the aft fuselage and connect them to
the outermost hole of each elevator control horn.
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6. Use your radio to center two servos. Remove the servo
o
arms and set one servo aside for now. Fit a long servo
arm to your elevator servo. Choose the spline position that
allows one arm to extend from the left side of the servo case
perpendicular to the case body. Clip off the remaining three
servo arms. Use a #48 drill bit to drill the second to the last
hole outboard on the servo arm (about 1/2" [13mm] from the
center of the output shaft).
9. Identify the left elevator pushrod and make a gentle
o
bend in it at the point shown so that it is parallel with the
other elevator pushrod. Set the right elevator at its neutral
position (zero degrees deflection) and use a felt-tip pen to
mark the point where the pushrod passes over the hole in
the servo arm.
7. Fit the elevator servo to the fuselage servo tray as
o
shown. Align the servo with the two elevator pushrods so
that the pushrods naturally lie over the second to the last
outboard hole on the servo arm. Move the servo left or right
in the tray to achieve this.
8. Use a 1/16" [1.6mm] drill bit to drill four holes to mount
o
the elevator servo. Install the elevator servo using the
mounting screws that came with your servo. Remove the
servo and harden the screw holes with thin CA. Reinstall
the servo.
10. Slide two 5/32" [4mm] wheel collars over both elevator
o
pushrods. Cut the left elevator pushrod 1" [25mm] from
shallow bend you made in the last step. Use a pair of pliers to
bend the other pushrod 90° straight up at the mark that you
made at the servo arm. Install the pushrod onto the elevator
servo using a nylon FasLink™ retainer. Cut off the excess
pushrod wire. Cut the wire about 1/8" [3.2mm] from the
surface of the nylon finger to ensure that the FasLink stays
securely connected. Note: If you removed your servo arm to
install the pushrod and FasLink™, make sure you reinstall the
servo arm retaining screw.
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11. Apply a drop of thread-locking compound to the
o
screws and thread the screws into the wheel collars. Set both
elevators at neutral and tighten the wheel collars securely
using a hex wrench. Don’t worry too much about getting the
left and right elevators perfectly aligned to each other at this
point. Adjusting the elevators at the clevises will give you a
more precise balance.
visible past the clevis barrel. Slide the pushrod into the rudder
pushrod guide tube. This is located on the right fuselage side
just below the elevator pushrod guide tube.
14. Using the rudder pushrod as a guide, make a mark
o
with a felt-tip pen on the right side of the rudder directly
under the pushrod.
12. Use your radio to center the elevator servo. Adjust both
o
elevators at the clevises until they are both at neutral throw.
Set the fuselage on a table and take a few steps back. As
viewed from the rear, both elevators should appear equal. If
they’re not, adjust the left elevator to match the right elevator.
13. Locate a 2-56 x 36" [914mm] pushrod. Measure 24"
o
[610mm] from the threaded end and cut off the unthreaded
side. Fit a silicone clevis retainer onto the pushrod and thread
a clevis onto it so that at least 1/16" [1.6mm] of threads are
15. Center a nylon control horn over the mark you
o
made and position it so the clevis holes are directly above
the hinge line. Use a 1/16" [1.6mm] drill bit to drill two
1/2" [13mm] deep holes for the control horn. Do not drill
completely through the rudder.
16. Use two #2 x 1/2" [12.7mm] sheet-metal screws to
o
attach the control horn to the rudder. Remove the horn and
harden the screw holes with thin CA. Reinstall the control
horn and attach the pushrod clevis to the horn.
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17. Locate your rudder servo and servo arm that you set
o
aside earlier. If you didn’t do so already, center the servo
and remove the arm. Set the servo in the servo bay with the
output shaft facing aft as shown. Fit the servo arm so that
you choose the arm that is 90° to the pushrod. Use a #48
drill bit to drill the outermost hole of the servo arm. Cut off the
unused servo arms.
19. Set the rudder at neutral. Mark the rudder pushrod
o
at the servo arm and bend the rod straight up 90°. Attach
the pushrod to the servo arm using a nylon FasLink. Secure
the servo arm using the attachment screw provided with
your servo.
18. Hold the servo in position so that the rudder pushrod
o
is directly in line with the outermost hole of the servo arm
or about 5/8" [16mm] from the center of the servo output
shaft. Drill four mounting holes using a 1/16" [1.6mm] drill bit.
Install the servo using the screws provided with your servo.
Remove the servo and harden the holes with thin CA.
20. With your rudder servo still centered, adjust the
o
rudder clevis so that the rudder is at neutral throw. When
you’re satisfied, slide the silicone retainers into position over
the clevises for the rudder, elevator, ailerons, and throttle.
GLOW ENGINE INSTALLATION
This section describes how to install an O.S. FL-70 fourstroke glow engine. Two and four-stroke engine installations
are similar with the exception of throttle pushrod location.
If you choose to use a two-stroke engine, we recommend
using either the O.S. .46 AX or the O.S. .55 AX. When
installing an engine other than the ones recommended,
choose the throttle pushrod hole in the firewall that best suits
your application.
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Fuel Tank Installation
3/8" [9.5mm]
VENT LINE
1. Locate the parts shown for the fuel tank. Assemble the
o
stopper as shown. Install the two shorter aluminum tubes on
the bottom and the longer tube on the top. Bend the longer
tube up as shown. This will be used as a vent line, so you’ll
need to bend it up far enough to reach the top of the tank.
Install the forward and rear plates and the included screw.
Do not tighten the screw yet.
3. Carefully install the stopper into the tank so that the
o
vent line points up to the top of the tank. You may need to
adjust the bend of the line so it reaches the top of the tank.
A small amount of clearance is desirable. When the stopper
is fully installed, tighten the screw to seal the stopper. Note:
Be careful when installing the stopper. Putting too much
pressure on the fuel line can cause the aluminum tube to cut
a pinhole in the silicone line inside the tank. This will result in
a poor running engine and possibly a dead-stick landing.
2. Cut two pieces of fuel line (GPMQ4131) long enough
o
to achieve the length shown in the photo above. This will
position the two fuel clunks so that they are 3/8" [9.5mm]
from the back of the tank. Note: It is important to allow
enough space for the clunk to move freely. If the clunk binds
it can get stuck and draw air, so please be careful.
4. Locate the plastic pushrod tube supplied with this kit.
o
Cut a section 8" [203mm] long. Sand the last 1/2" [13mm] of
the tube’s outer surface. This helps it to stick to the firewall.
5. Based on the location of the throttle arm on your particular
o
engine, choose a throttle pushrod hole. Fit this in the firewall
hole you chose and slide it back until 1/8" [3.2mm] of the tube
protrudes out past the front of the firewall. Don’t worry about
an exact fit inside the fuselage at this time. You will trim the
tube to the proper length after the throttle servo is installed.
Use 5-minute epoxy to glue the tube to the firewall.
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6. Cut out two 1-3/4" x 4" [44mm x 102mm] pieces of
o
1/4" [6.4mm] thick latex foam rubber. Install the fuel tank
with one piece above the tank and one below the tank. Make
sure that the tank is fully forward and that the foam rubber
is positioned correctly and not bunched up. Note: A specially
cut piece of wood will retain the fuel tank, but we will install
that after the throttle servo is installed.
Mount the Engine
2. Fit the engine to the mount and adjust the width of the
o
engine mount halves. Set the engine aside and center the
engine mount to the vertical firewall centering marks. When
you’re satisfied with the position of the mount, tighten the
four engine mount screws.
3. Fit the engine to the mount and measure the distance
o
from the face of the firewall to the engine’s drive washer.
Adjust the position of the engine fore and aft until the drive
washer is 4-3/4" [121mm] from the firewall. Clamp the
engine to the mount in this position using a pair of steel 1"
[25mm] C-clamps.
1. Locate four 6-32 x 1" [25.4mm] socket head cap
o
screws, four #6 flat washers, and four #6 lock washers. Turn
the fuselage over and loosely fit the engine mount to the
firewall using this hardware. Notice that there are centering
marks molded into each half of the engine mount and that
there are centering marks also on the firewall. Use threadlocking compound on the screw threads.
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4. With the engine still in place, mark the four mounting
o
holes using a pencil or a Great Planes Dead Center™
Engine Mount Hole Locator (GPMR8130) to find the center
of each hole. Remove the engine from the mount and use
a #36 drill bit to drill four holes completely through the
mount. Tap the holes using a Great Planes 6-32 tap and
drill set (GPMR8102).
Rig the Throttle
1. Depending on the side you installed the throttle pushrod
o
tube on, fit your throttle servo in the forward tray as shown.
Drill four holes using a 1/16" [1.6mm] drill bit. Screw the
servo to the tray with the servo’s output shaft facing forward
as shown. Harden the screw holes with thin CA.
5. Install three pieces of medium-sized (standard) silicone
o
fuel line to your fuel tank lines (GPMQ4131). Install the
engine to the mount using four 6-32 x 3/4" [19.1mm] SHCS,
four #6 flat washers, and four #6 lock washers. Connect your
fuel feed line to the carburetor and the tank’s pressure line
to the muffler. Trim the fuel lines to the proper length, but
leave the tank pressure line a little long until you position the
muffler later.
6. Connect a fuel line plug (fuel dot) to the fill line. Leave
o
this line about 9" [229mm] long. It will need to exit the cowl
out of the cooling air hole in the bottom of the cowl.
2. Dry-fit the fuel tank mounting stick. Slide the mounting
o
stick onto the throttle pushrod tube first and then into the
slots in the fuselage. The side of the stick opposite the
pushrod support goes in first. Place a small piece of foam
rubber between the stick and the fuel tank if you wish. Cut
the plastic pushrod support tube about 1/2" [13mm] aft of the
mounting stick. Glue the fuel tank mounting stick in place with
a drop of medium CA on each side of the stick. If you need
to remove the fuel tank later, use CA debonder (GPMR6039)
to dissolve the glue and remove the stick.
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3. Locate a 2-56 x 36" threaded pushrod, one nylon
NO YES 90
˚
90
˚
CUT OFF THE
UNUSED ARMS
o
clevis, and one silicone retainer. If you are using a twostroke engine, position the silicone retainer on the pushrod
and thread the clevis onto the pushrod so that at least 1/16"
[1.6mm] of thread is visible past the barrel of the clevis. If you
are using a four-stroke engine with the carburetor mounted
near the firewall, you will need to make a Z-bend in the
unthreaded end of the wire. Use a pair of pliers or a set of
Hobbico Z-bend pliers (HCAR2000) to do this. Remove the
engine’s throttle arm and fit it to the pushrod.
4. Apply thread-locking compound to the throttle arm
o
screw and install the throttle arm. Slide the pushrod into the
pushrod tube and attach the throttle arm to the carburetor.
If your throttle arm included a lock washer, don’t forget to
install it too. Note: You may have to bend the pushrod slightly
to get it to line up with the throttle arm.
5. Fit a short servo arm to your throttle servo. Use
o
your radio to determine where to position the arm on the
splined output shaft. Pick the arm that will be 90° to the
servo case side when your throttle stick is exactly centered
(half-throttle). Cut off the remaining arms. Fit a screw-lock
pushrod connector to the arm and use a nylon retainer to
secure it. Partially thread a 4-40 x 1/8" [3.2mm] SHCS into
the pushrod connector.
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6. Use your radio to set the servo to full throttle (you may
90
˚
THROTTLE
SERVO
CARBURETOR
FULL
THROTTLE
HALF
THROTTLE
IDLE
o
have to reverse the travel direction of your servo). Install the
servo arm onto the pushrod and then onto the splined servo
shaft. Position the throttle arm (on the carb) to full throttle
and then tighten the set screw at the servo arm. Test the
operation of your throttle linkage. With the throttle at half
throttle, the throttle arm should be 90° to the thrust line and
the servo arm should be 90° to the servo case. You may
need to set your radio’s sub-trim and end-points to fine-tune
the idle and full-throttle positions. Don’t forget to install the
servo arm retaining screw and be sure to use thread-locking
compound on the screw-lock pushrod connector set screw.
better than average aerobatic performance as well as flight
times of about 8 to 10 minutes depending on your flying
style. Other motors may be used, but some modifications
may be necessary.
This setup uses a 6S LiPo battery setup. That means that you
will have to use two 3-cell LiPo packs to make a 6S or 6 cells
in series. The Great Planes series connector (GPMM3143)
is used to connect the two batteries in series. Please refer
to the Battery Precautions on page 33 and the Electric
Motor Option & Required Parts section on page 4 for the
power system parts required.
Mount the Motor & ESC
Double check your engine and throttle installation.
When you’re satisfied, proceed to the section titled:
Final Assembly.
ELECTRIC MOTOR INSTALLATION
This section will cover the installation of the ElectriFly
RimFire .55 (42-60-480) motor. The motor, prop, ESC,
and battery combination listed was tested extensively and
performs very well. You can expect a brisk flying pace and
1. Remove the x-mount from the back of your motor.
o
Remove the set screws from the locations shown in the
picture and reinstall them using a drop of thread-locking
compound on the screw threads. Install the prop adapter
using thread-locking compound on the four screws. If you
have a new motor, remove the female bullet connectors.
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2. To mount the required RimFire brushless motor, you
o
will need to purchase a Great Planes medium motor mount
(GPMG1255). Disassemble your motor mount and set aside
the pieces. Attach your motor to the forward frame of the
mount using the four 3mm x 10mm pan-head screws supplied
with the motor mount set. Apply thread-locking compound to
all screws.
in the locations shown. Be sure to use washers under the
heads of the bolts and a drop of thread-locking compound
on all screw threads.
5. Locate the wood ESC tray. Press three 4-40 blind nuts
o
into the holes as shown. Locate the two 40mm pieces of
triangle stock. Mix up some 5-minute epoxy and glue the
triangle stock to the ESC tray as shown. Proceed immediately
to the next step before the epoxy sets.
3. Bolt the rear frame of the motor mount to the firewall
o
as shown using four 6-32 x 3/4" [19.1mm] SHCS bolts, four
#6 lock washers, and four #6 washers. Use a drop of thread
locking compound on the screw threads.
4. Install the front frame and motor assembly as
o
shown. Position the motor and frame so that the motor
measures 4-3/4" [121mm] from the knurled drive washer
por tion of the motor to the firewall. Install the eight bolts
6. Turn the fuselage over and glue the ESC tray in place
o
as shown.
7. Plug a Great Planes series connector into your ESC.
o
Wrap the connection with electrical tape. Connect a 6"
[152mm] servo lead extension (HCAM2701) to the ESC
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signal lead. Be sure to match the orange wire on the ESC
lead to the white wire on the extension. Use a piece of 3/8"
[9.5mm] heat shrink tubing (not included) to secure the
extension to the ESC lead.
8. Install the ESC using three 4-40 x 3/8" [9.5mm] machine
o
screws with three #4 flat washers. Apply a drop of threadlocking compound to the screw threads. Route the battery
leads and the ESC signal lead into the fuselage. Connect the
motor leads to the ESC.
2. Install the strap from the bottom of the fuselage. If you
o
want, you can use medium CA to glue these to the underside
of the battery tray.
Mount the Batteries
IMPORTANT: Before experimenting with different battery
combinations and connecting multiple battery packs with
adapter plugs, refer to the Battery Precautions on page 33.
1. Locate the two 8" [203mm] strips of non-adhesive
o
backed hook-and-loop material. Separate the hook side from
the loop side. Join the hook side to the loop side so that there
is a 2" [51mm] overlap. Make two straps like this.
3. Turn the model over. Mix up a small batch of 5-minute
o
epoxy and brush a thin coat onto the battery tray floor to help
the hook-and-loop material stick. Allow the epoxy to cure.
Locate the 4" [102mm] piece of adhesive backed hook-andloop material and cut it in half so that you have two 2" [51mm]
pieces. Separate the hook side from the loop side and stick
the hook side (coarse side) to your battery tray as shown.
The loop side (fuzzy side) will be used later on your battery
packs later when you balance (C.G.) the airplane. This will
keep them from sliding fore and aft when you’re flying.
4. Test fit your LiPo battery packs and trim the straps
o
down to size.
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5. The electric setup requires additional cooling through
o
the battery compartment. Turn your model over and trim
away the covering from the cooling holes in the sheeting of
the fuselage just behind the trailing edge of the wing. There
are four holes.
FINAL ASSEMBLY
Radio Installation
1. Locate the switch and
o
charge jack plates shown
here. Three options are
provided for you depending
on the type of switch and
charge jack you choose.
3. Tape the mounting plate to the fuselage side and use it
o
as a template to cut the holes with your hobby knife.
4. Glue the wooden mounting plate to the inside of the
o
fuselage aligning it with the holes you just made.
2. Choose a place to mount your switch and charge jack
o
that will not interfere with the servos or radio gear. We chose
to use the Great Planes Switch & Charge Jack Mounting
Set (GPMM1000). A good place to mount this is on the right
hand side of the fuselage to the right of the elevator servo.
5. Install the switch and the charge connector to the mount
o
and install the mount to the fuselage.
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6. Plug a 6" [152mm] Y-harness (FUTM4130) into the
o
aileron channel on your receiver.
7. Locate the two 4-1/2" [114mm] strips of non-adhesive
o
backed hook-and-loop material. Separate the hook side from
the loop side and make two straps to hold down your receiver
and battery. Overlap the two sides by 1" [25mm] as shown.
9. Connect the receiver battery to the switch harness and
o
the harness to the receiver. Use a piece of heat shrink tubing
to secure the receiver battery to the switch harness. If you
are using a 72MHz receiver, route the antenna through the
antenna tube shown. You may have to trim the covering at
the rear left fuselage side to fully extend your antenna.
8. Plug your elevator, throttle (or ESC if electric), and
o
rudder servos into the receiver in their appropriate channels.
Plug in the battery switch lead. Wrap the receiver and battery
in 1/4" [6.4mm] thick latex foam rubber (not included) to
protect them from shock and vibration. Strap them to the
radio tray as shown.
10. If you have set up your model with an electric motor,
o
please follow this step. Read the Lithium Battery Handling
& Usage section and the Battery Precautions section in this
manual before proceeding with this step. If you are using
a Futaba radio system, use the servo reversing feature to
reverse your throttle channel (channel 3) in your transmitter.
With your radio system on, plug in your LiPo batteries and
test the motor. If the motor rotates backwards (clockwise),
reverse any two of the motor leads.
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Cowl Installation
Several spots must be trimmed out on the cowl if using a
glow engine. If you’re using the electric motor, no trimming
is necessary.
1. Cut four pieces of masking tape about 4" [102mm] long.
o
Apply the tape to the fuselage in the locations shown (two
per side) so that they are centered with the hardwood cowl
mounting blocks. Using a ruler, draw a line from the center
of the block back as far as you can. Make a vertical mark at
the center of each cowl mounting block. Measure 1" [25mm]
back and make a second vertical mark.
3. Fit the canopy and hatch assembly to the fuselage.
o
Remove your muffler or anything that will interfere with the
cowl. Fit the cowl. Fit the backplate of the spinner to the
crankshaft of the engine. Slide the cowl back so that there is
at least 1/8" [3.2mm] of clearance between the cowl ring and
the spinner backplate. Wrap tape around the backplate and
the front of the cowl ring so that the cowl stays aligned with
the backplate. Trace the outline of the templates onto the
cowl using a felt-tip pen.
2. Cut several pieces of card stock to shape to use as
o
cowl trimming templates for the cylinder head, needle valve,
glow plug, and muffler. Tape each piece to the fuselage aft
of where the edge of the cowl will be. Trim holes in the card
stock to clear any parts that will interfere with the cowl.
4. With the cowl still in position, align the ruler with the
o
lines you drew and make marks on the cowl that are 1"
[25mm] forward of the vertical marks you drew. Use a 1/16"
[1.6mm] drill bit to drill four holes to mount the cowl. Remove
the cowl and cut out the clearance holes. Refit the cowl and
check your work. Re-trim if necessary.
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5. If you are using a glow engine, an additional cooling
o
hole for the cylinder head is recommended. Cut out a 3/8"
[9.5mm] wide hole.
correctly on the spinner backplate so that the spinner cone
fits without touching the cone. Use the prop washer that
came with your engine / motor. Install the prop nut and any
lock nut included with your engine securely.
2. Test fit the spinner cone to the backplate. Trim the blade
o
openings in the cone at any points that interfere with the
propeller. Attach the cone to the backplate using the screws
supplied with the spinner. Important: The cone must not
touch the propeller.
6. Use four #2 x 3/8" [9.5mm] sheet-metal screws with
o
four #2 flat washers to attach the cowl. Depending on your
particular engine, you may need to install the muffler and
needle valve extension before the cowl is installed. In our
case, we needed to install the cowl first. Don’t forget to hook
up your fuel lines correctly.
Propeller & Spinner Installation
Pilot Installation (Optional)
A pilot is not included with this ARF but we have made
provisions for you to install one if you wish. The Great Planes
1/5th scale Civilian Pilot fits well and can be ordered in red
(GPMQ9062), blue (GPMQ9063), or yellow (GPMQ9064).
1. Fit the spinner backplate to the engine. Use a prop
o
reamer to enlarge the hole if necessary. Install the propeller
recommended for your engine, making sure to align the prop
1. If you are going to install a pilot figure, you’ll have to
o
modify the figure to make it fit the cockpit. The Great Planes
1/5th scale Civilian Pilot shown is fairly tall and needs to be
cut down to fit properly. Cut the figure using a hobby knife
or hobby saw just below the harness buckles. Use a belt
sander or a sanding bar to sand the base of the figure so
that it is flat.
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2. Locate the oval shaped piece of wood supplied in this
o
kit. Use epoxy to glue this into the base of the pilot figure.
3. Position the pilot figure under the canopy and drill at
o
least two holes through the canopy floor and pilot figure base
using a 1/16" [1.6mm] drill bit. Use sheet-metal screws or
servo screws (not included) to attach the pilot figure.
5. Turn over the hatch and glue the filler plate in place.
o
6. Install the canopy / hatch to the fuse first by sliding the
o
two dowels into the holes in the forward former and then
dropping down and sliding back the canopy. The two hooks
under the canopy should engage in the fuselage. Magnets
will keep the hatch back and locked.
4. Glue the two 10 x 70mm plywood support pieces to the
o
bottom of the cockpit floor filler plate as shown.
Apply the Decals
1. Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the decals from
the sheet.
2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily fingerprints
and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket with a mixture
of liquid dish soap and warm water—about one teaspoon of
soap per gallon of water. Submerse the decal in the soap
and water and peel off the paper backing. Note: Even though
the decals have a “sticky-back” and are not the water transfer
type, submersing them in soap & water allows accurate
positioning and reduces air bubbles underneath.
3. Position decal on the model where desired. Holding the
decal down, use a paper towel to wipe most of the water
away.
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4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to squeegee
These are two 3200mAh batteries (one 11.1V
and the other 7.4V). When joined in SERIES,
the result will be a 18.5V, 3200 mAh battery.
It’s okay to connect batteries with different voltages in
series to achieve the new, desired voltage.
This is a SERIES battery
adapter (GPMM3143)
that connects two
batteries in series.
11.1V (3-Cell)
GPMP0613
OKAY
7.4V (2-Cell)
GPMP0613
These two 1500mAh batteries (both 11.1V) are
being joined in PARALLEL. The result will be
one 11.1V, 3000mAh battery.
This is a PARALLEL battery
adapter (GPMM3142) that
connects two batteries in parallel.
11.1V (3-Cell)
GPMP0613
OKAY
11.1V (3-Cell)
GPMP0613
Different
voltages
PARALLEL
adapter
11.1V (3-Cell)
3200mAh
7.4V (2-Cell)
3200mAh
NO!!!
Different
capacities
11.1V (3-Cell)
3200mAh
NO!!!
11.1V (3-Cell)
1250mAh
remaining water from under the decal. Apply the rest of the
decals the same way.
GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY
Install & Connect the Motor Battery
Before you can power the radio system and set up the controls,
the motor batteries will need to be charged. IMPORTANT:
If using multiple battery packs that are connected with an
adapter, never charge the batteries together through the
adapter. Always charge each battery pack separately. Charge
the batteries, then read the following precautions on how to
connect multiple packs for flying the model:
Battery Precautions:
There are two ways to connect multiple battery packs: In
Series and in Parallel.
NEVER connect battery packs with different Voltages in
Parallel–only combine in Series. Otherwise, the batteries will
try to “equalize” with the larger one trying to “charge” the
smaller one, thus causing heat and likely a fire.
1. Connecting batteries in “Series” means to connect the +’s
to the –’s and the –’s to the +’s. This combines the batteries’
Voltages, but the capacity remains the same.
2. Connecting batteries in “Parallel” means to connect the
+’s to the +’s and the -’s to the -’s. This combines the batteries’
capacities, but the Voltage remains the same.
Also NEVER connect battery packs with different capacities
in Series or in Parallel.
Check the Control Directions
1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the
o
trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from the servos
and reposition them so they are centered. Reinstall the
screws that hold on the servo arms.
2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check
o
all the control surfaces to see if they are centered. If
necessar y, adjust the clevises on the pushrods to center
the control surfaces.
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FULL
THROTTLE
RUDDER
MOVES
RIGHT
ELEVATOR
MOVES DOWN
RIGHT AILERON
MOVES UP
LEFT AILERON
MOVES DOWN
4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP
(STANDARD MODE 2)
NOTE: The throws are measured at the widest part of the
These are the recommended control surface throws:
ELEVATOR
HIGH RATE LOW RATE
1/2"
[12.7mm]
8 deg
Up
1/2"
[12.7mm]
8 deg
Down
7/16"
[11.1mm]
7 deg
Up
7/16"
[11.1mm]
7 deg
Down
RUDDER
2-3/4"
[69.9mm]
23 deg
Right
2-3/4"
[69.9mm]
23 deg
Left
2"
[51mm]
17 deg
Right
2"
[51mm]
17 deg
Left
AILERONS
7/16"
[11.1mm]
10 deg
Up
7/16"
[11.1mm]
10 deg
Down
3/8"
[9.5mm]
8 deg
Up
3/8"
[9.5mm]
8 deg
Down
elevators, rudder and ailerons.
3. Make certain that the control surfaces and the
o
carburetor / motor respond in the correct direction as shown
in the diagram. If any of the controls respond in the wrong
direction, use the servo reversing in the transmitter to reverse
the servos connected to those controls. Be certain the control
surfaces have remained centered. Adjust if necessary.
Set the Control Throws
Use a Great Planes AccuThrow, a ruler, or an inclinometer
to accurately measure and set the control throw of each
control surface as indicated in the chart that follows. While
more control throw is possible and may seem necessary,
this model reacts well to very little throw. For this particular
airplane, we recommend using the high rate rudder only on
the ground when taxiing. Switch to low rate rudder before
initiating your takeoff roll.
Balance the Model (C.G.)
At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly condition
with all of the systems in place including the engine, landing
gear, covering and paint, and the radio system.
1. Locate the two 1/4-20 wing bolts. Connect your
o
aileron servo leads and install the wing. Make sure that
the servo wires do not get caught between the wing saddle
and the wing.
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2. Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8" [3mm]-wide tape to accurately
o
mark the C.G. on the top of the wing on both sides of the
fuselage. The C.G. is located 5-3/8" [136.5mm] back
from the leading edge of the wing at the wing root. Note:
It is permissible to fly the airplane with the C.G. up to 1/2"
[12.7mm] forward or 3/8" [9.5mm] aft of this mark, but for the
first flights set the C.G. for the recommended location. Do not
fly outside of the listed C.G. range!
To ensure a successful first flight, fly your Zlin 526
Akrobat set up only according to the C.G. and control
surface throws specified in this manual. The throws
and C.G. are not arbitrary, but have been determined
through extensive testing and accurate record-keeping.
This provides you with the best chance for success
and enjoyable first flights that should be surprise-free.
Additionally, the throws and C.G. shown are true, real
data which will allow the model to perform in the manner
in which it was intended when flown by a pilot of the skill
level for which it was intended. DO NOT OVERLOOK
THESE IMPORTANT PROCEDURES. A model that
is not properly setup will be dangerous, unstable, and
possibly unflyable.
4. If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy” and the battery
o
pack and/or receiver must be shifted forward or weight must
be added to the nose to balance. If the nose drops, the
model is “nose heavy” and the battery pack and/or receiver
must be shifted aft or weight must be added to the tail to
balance. If possible, relocate the battery pack and receiver
to minimize or eliminate any additional ballast required. If
additional weight is required, nose weight may be easily
added by using a “spinner weight” (GPMQ4645 for the 1 oz.
[28g] weight, or GPMQ4646 for the 2 oz. [57g] weight). If
spinner weight is not practical or is not enough, use Great
Planes (GPMQ4485) “stick-on” lead. A good place to add
stick-on nose weight is to the structure around the firewall
(don’t attach weight to the cowl—it is not intended to support
weight). Begin by placing incrementally increasing amounts
of weight on the bottom of the fuse over the firewall until the
model balances. Once you have determined the amount of
weight required, it can be permanently attached. If required,
tail weight may be added by cutting open the bottom of the
fuse and gluing it permanently inside.
Note: Do not rely upon the adhesive on the back of the lead
weight to permanently hold it in place. Over time, fuel and
exhaust residue may soften the adhesive and cause the
weight to fall off. Use #2 sheet-metal screws or epoxy to
permanently hold the weight in place.
5. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to add any weight,
o
recheck the C.G. after the weight has been installed.
Balance the Model Laterally
1. With the wings level, have an assistant help you lift the
o
model by the engine propeller shaft and the bottom of the
fuse under the TE of the fin. Do this several times.
2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it
o
means that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding
weight to the other wing tip. An airplane that has been
laterally balanced will track better in loops and other
maneuvers.
3. With the wing attached to the fuselage, all parts of the
o
model installed (ready to fly), all batteries (electric), and an
empty fuel tank (glow), place the model upside-down on
a Great Planes CG Machine, or lift it upside-down at the
balance point you marked.
PREFLIGHT
Identify Your Model
No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site
or if you fly somewhere on your own, you should always
have your name, address, telephone number and AMA
number on or inside your model. It is required at all AMA
R/C club flying sites and AMA sanctioned flying events.
Fill out the identification tag on page 39 and place it on
or inside your model.
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Page 36
Charge the Radio Batteries
Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your
radio control system to charge the batteries. You should
always charge your transmitter and receiver batteries the night
before you go flying, and at other times as recommended by
the radio manufacturer.
engine / motor off and once with the engine / motor running
at various speeds. If the control surfaces do not respond
correctly, do not fly! Find and correct the problem first. Look
for loose servo connections or broken wires, corroded wires
on old servo connectors, poor solder joints in your battery
pack or a defective cell, or a damaged receiver crystal from
a previous crash.
CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with your
radio system state differently, the initial charge on new
transmitter and receiver batteries should be done for
15 hours using the slow-charger that came with the
radio system. This will “condition” the batteries so that
the next charge may be done using the fast-charger
of your choice. If the initial charge is done with a fastcharger the batteries may not reach their full capacity
and you may be flying with batteries that are only
partially charged.
Balance Propellers
ENGINE & MOTOR SAFETY
PRECAUTIONS
Failure to follow these safety precautions may result
in severe injury to yourself and others.
Keep all engine fuel in a safe place, away from high heat,
sparks or flames, as fuel is very flammable. Do not smoke
near the engine or fuel; and remember that engine exhaust
gives off a great deal of deadly carbon monoxide. Therefore
do not run the engine in a closed room or garage.
Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to
operate engines.
Use safety glasses when star ting or running engines
and motors.
Do not run the engine or motor in an area of loose gravel
or sand; the propeller may throw such material in your face
or eyes.
Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers
before you fly. An unbalanced prop can be the single
most significant cause of vibration that can damage your
model. Not only will engine mounting screws and bolts
loosen, possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may
also damage your radio receiver and battery. Vibration can
also cause your fuel to foam, which will, in turn, cause your
engine to run hot or quit.
We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer
(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.
Ground Check and Range Check
Run the engine for a few minutes to make sure it idles reliably,
transitions smoothly and maintains full power continuously.
Afterward, shut the engine off and inspect the model closely,
making sure all fasteners, pushrods and connections have
remained tight and the hinges are secure. Always ground
check the operational range of your radio before the first
flight of the day following the manufacturer’s instructions that
came with your radio. This should be done once with the
Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from
the plane of rotation of the propeller as you start and run the
engine or motor.
Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shirt
sleeves, sweater strings, ties, scarves, long hair or loose
objects such as pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of
shirt or jacket pockets into the prop.
Use a “chicken stick” or electric starter to start the engine.
Do not use your fingers to flip the propeller. Make certain the
glow plug clip or connector is secure so that it will not pop off
or otherwise get into the running propeller.
Make all engine adjustments from behind the rotating propeller.
The engine gets hot! Do not touch it during or right after
operation. Make sure fuel lines are in good condition so fuel
will not leak onto a hot engine, causing a fire.
To stop a glow engine, cut off the fuel supply by closing
off the fuel line or following the engine manufacturer’s
recommendations. Do not use hands, fingers or any other
body part to try to stop the engine. To stop a gasoline powered
engine an on/off switch should be connected to the engine
coil or igniter unit. Do not throw anything into the propeller of
a running engine or motor.
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Page 37
Always keep your radio on when plugging the motor
batteries into the ESC. Stay clear of the propeller at
all times: Some ESC units do not have safety arming
features, so any movement of the throttle stick may cause
the propeller to turn.
Always check your motor and battery setup using a watt
meter. We recommend the RC Electronics Watt’s Up meter
(RELP0101). Make sure that your setup does not exceed the
capabilities of the battery, speed control, or motor.
Make sure that all electrical connections are soldered
properly. Run the motor for a few minutes and then check the
wires and connections for excessive heat. Hot connections
may indicate poor solder joints.
the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the flight line.
Intentional flying behind the flight line is prohibited.
4) I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies
currently allowed by the Federal Communications Commission.
5) I will not knowingly operate my model within three
miles of any pre-existing flying site except in accordance
with the frequency sharing agreement listed [in the
complete AMA Safety Code].
9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person
touch a powered model in flight; nor should any part of the
model other than the landing gear, intentionally touch
the ground, except while landing.
AMA SAFETY CODE (EXCERPTS)
Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academy
of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. For the complete Safety
Code refer to Model Aviation magazine, the AMA web site or
the Code that came with your AMA license.
General
1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events,
air shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has
been proven to be airworthy by having been previously,
successfully flight tested.
2) I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator. I will give right-of-way and avoid flying in the
proximity of full-scale aircraft. Where necessary, an observer
shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid having models fly
in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.
3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the
flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.
5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name
and address or AMA number, on or in the model. Note: This
does not apply to models while being flown indoors.
7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device
that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).
Radio Control
1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground
check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.
2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of spectators
until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted by an
experienced helper.
3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be
established in front of which all flying takes place with the
other side for spectators. Only personnel involved with flying
CHECK LIST
During the last few moments of preparation your mind
may be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the first
flight. Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook
certain checks and procedures that should be performed
before the model is flown. To help avoid this, a check list
is provided to make sure these important areas are not
overlooked. Many are covered in the instruction manual,
so where appropriate, refer to the manual for complete
instructions. Be sure to check the items off as they are
completed (that’s why it’s called a check list!).
1. Fuelproof all areas exposed to fuel or exhaust residue.
o
2. Check the C.G. according to the measurements
o
provided in the manual.
3. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely
o
mounted in the fuse. Simply stuffing them into place with
foam rubber is not sufficient.
4. Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it has a
o
strain relief inside the fuselage to keep tension off the solder
joint inside the receiver.
5. Balance your model laterally as explained in
o
the instructions.
6. Use thread-locking compound to secure critical
o
fasteners such as the set screws that hold the wheel axles to
the struts, screws that hold the carburetor arm (if applicable),
screw-lock pushrod connectors, etc.
7. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will
o
turn freely.
8. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.
o
9. Reinforce holes for wood screws with thin CA where
o
appropriate (servo mounting screws, cowl mounting
screws, etc.).
10. Confirm that all controls operate in the correct direction
o
and the throws are set up according to the manual.
11. Set up and check a throttle cutoff on your radio.
o
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12. Make sure there are silicone retainers on all the
o
clevises and that all servo arms are secured to the servos
with the screws included with your radio.
13. Tighten all jam nuts against the threaded clevises on
o
your control surfaces.
14. Secure connections between servo wires and
o
Y-connectors or servo extensions, and the connection
between your battery pack(s) and the on/off switch with
vinyl tape, heat shrink tubing or special clips suitable for
that purpose.
15. Make sure any servo extension cords you may have
o
used do not interfere with other systems (servo arms,
pushrods, etc.).
16. Secure the pressure tap (if used) to the muffler with high
o
temp RTV silicone, thread-locking compound or J.B. Weld.
17. Make sure the fuel lines are connected and are
o
not kinked.
18. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
o
19. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.
o
20. Place your name, address, AMA number and
o
telephone number on or inside your model.
21. Cycle your receiver battery pack (if necessary) and
o
make sure it is fully charged.
22. Range-check your radio at the field at the start of each
o
flying day. Check it with the engine/motor operating.
CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES):
If, while flying, you notice an alarming or unusual
sound such as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate
control surface flutter. Flutter occurs when a control
surface (such as an aileron or elevator) or a flying
surface (such as a wing or stab) rapidly vibrates up
and down (thus causing the noise). In extreme cases,
if not detected immediately, flutter can actually cause
the control surface to detach or the flying surface to fail,
thus causing loss of control followed by an impending
crash. The best thing to do when flutter is detected is to
slow the model immediately by reducing power, then
land as soon as safely possible. Identify which surface
fluttered (so the problem may be resolved) by checking
all the servo grommets for deterioration or signs of
vibration. Make certain all pushrod linkages are secure
and free of play. If it fluttered once, under similar
circumstances it will probably flutter again unless the
problem is fixed. Some things which can cause flutter
are; Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting control horns
solidly; Poor fit of clevis pin in horn; Side-play of wire
pushrods caused by large bends; Excessive free play
in servo gears; Insecure servo mounting; and one of
the most prevalent causes of flutter; Flying an overpowered model at excessive speeds.
F LYI N G
The Zlin 526 Akrobat is a great-flying model that flies smoothly
and predictably. The Zlin 526 Akrobat does not, however,
possess the self-recovery characteristics of a primary R/C
trainer and should be flown only by experienced R/C pilots.
Fuel Mixture Adjustments
A fully cowled engine may run at a higher temperature than
an un-cowled engine. For this reason, the fuel mixture should
be richened so the engine runs at about 200 rpm below
peak speed. By running the engine slightly rich, you will help
prevent dead-stick landings caused by overheating. Keep
in mind also that an engine runs more rich on the ground.
Leaning to peak rpm on the ground can cause overheating
in the air.
Takeoff
Before you get ready to take off, see how the model handles
on the ground by doing a few practice runs at low speeds
on the runway. Hold “up” elevator to keep the tail wheel on
the ground. If necessary, adjust the tail wheel so the model
will roll straight down the runway. If you need to calm your
nerves before the maiden flight, shut the engine down and
bring the model back into the pits. Top off the fuel, then check
all fasteners and control linkages.
Remember to takeoff into the wind. When you’re ready, point
the model straight down the runway, hold a bit of up elevator
to keep the tail on the ground to maintain tail wheel steering,
and then gradually advance the throttle. As the model gains
speed, decrease up elevator, allowing the tail to come off
the ground naturally. One of the most important things to
remember with a tail dragger is to always be ready to apply
right rudder to counteract engine torque. Gain as much
speed as your runway and flying site will practically allow
before gently applying up elevator, lifting the model into the
air. At this moment it is likely that you will need to apply more
right rudder to counteract engine torque. Be smooth on the
elevator stick, allowing the model to establish a gentle climb
to a safe altitude before turning into the traffic pattern.
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Flight
For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffic, it is a
good idea to have an assistant on the flight line with you. Tell
him to remind you to throttle back once the plane gets to a
comfortable altitude. While full throttle is usually desirable for
takeoff, most models fly more smoothly at reduced speeds.
loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction (anticipating
rudder corrections that will be required to maintain heading),
remember to throttle back at the top, and make certain you
are on the desired rates (high/low rates). A flight plan greatly
reduces the chances of crashing your model just because of
poor planning and impulsive moves. Remember to think.
Take it easy with your airplane for the first few flights, gradually
getting acquainted with it as you gain confidence. Adjust the
trims to maintain straight and level flight. After flying around
for a while, and while still at a safe altitude with plenty of fuel,
practice slow flight and execute practice landing approaches
by reducing the throttle to see how the model handles at
slower speeds. Make a few more runs minding your field’s
current traffic pattern and try executing a few straight-ahead
stalls. Add power to see how she climbs as well. Continue to
fly around, executing various maneuvers and making mental
notes (or having your assistant write them down) of what trim
or C.G. changes may be required to fine tune the model so
it flies the way you like. Mind your fuel level or batteries, but
use this first flight to become familiar with your model before
landing.
Landing
To initiate a landing approach, lower the throttle while on the
downwind leg. Allow the nose of the model to pitch downward
to gradually bleed off altitude. Continue to lose altitude, but
maintain airspeed by keeping the nose down as you turn onto
the crosswind leg. Make your final turn toward the runway
(into the wind) keeping the nose down to maintain airspeed
and control. Level the attitude when the model reaches the
runway threshold, modulating the throttle as necessary to
maintain your glide path and airspeed. If you are going to
overshoot, smoothly advance the throttle (always ready on
the right rudder to counteract torque) and climb out to make
another attempt. When you’re ready to make your landing
flare and the model is a foot or so off the deck, smoothly
increase up elevator until it gently touches down. Once the
model is on the runway and has lost flying speed, hold up
elevator to place the tail on the ground, regaining tail wheel
control.
HAVE A BALL!
But always stay in control
and fly in a safe manner.
GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!
One final note about flying your model. Have a goal or flight
plan in mind for every flight. This can be learning a new
maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) you already know,
or learning how the model behaves in certain conditions
(such as on high or low rates). This is not necessarily to
improve your skills (though it is never a bad idea!), but more
importantly so you do not surprise yourself by impulsively
attempting a maneuver and suddenly finding that you’ve run
out of time, altitude, or airspeed. Every maneuver should be
deliberate, not impulsive. For example, if you’re going to do a
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