GREAT PLANES Yak 54 36 ARF Instruction Manual

WARRANTY

Great Planes

®

Model Manufacturing Co. guarantees this kit to be free from defects in both material and workmanship at the date of
purchase.This warranty does not cover any component parts damaged by use or modification. In no case shall Great Planes’ liability
exceed the original cost of the purchased kit. Further, Great Planes reserves the right to change or modify this warranty without notice.

In that Great Planes has no control over the final assembly or material used for final assembly, no liability shall be assumed nor
accepted for any damage resulting from the use by the user of the final user-assemb led product.By the act of using the user-assembled
product, the user accepts all resulting liability.

If the buyer is not prepared to accept the liability associated with the use of this product, the buyer is advised to return this
kit immediately in new and unused condition to the place of purchase.

To make a warranty claim send the defective part or item to Hobby Services at the address below:

Hobby Services
3002 N. Apollo Dr., Suite 1
Champaign, IL 61822 USA

Include a letter stating your name, return shipping address, as much contact information as possible (daytime telephone number, fax
number, e-mail address), a detailed description of the problem and a photocopy of the purchase receipt. Upon receipt of the package
the problem will be evaluated as quickly as possible.

READ THROUGH THIS MANUAL BEFORE STARTING
CONSTRUCTION.IT CONT AINS IMPORTANT INSTRUCTIONS
AND WARNINGS CONCERNING THE ASSEMBLY AND
USE OF THIS MODEL.

GPMZ1542 for GPMA1542 V1.0Entire Contents © Copyright 2006

Champaign, Illinois

[phone], Ext 5

[e-mail]

INSTRUCTION MANUAL

Wingspan: 41 in [1040mm]
Wing Area: 356 sq in [23dm2]
Weight: 24 – 27 oz [680 – 765g]
Wing Loading: 9.7 – 10.9 oz/sq ft [30 – 33g/dm2]
Length: 38 in [960mm]
Requires (not included):
Radio: 4-channel with four micro servos, two 6" [152mm] servo

extensions and one Y-harness

Motor: RimFire™35-30-950 out-runner (GPMG4590) or

Ammo™24-33-4040 in-runner brushless motor (GPMG5165)

Gear-Drive: 24mm gear-dr ive with 4.5:1 gear ratio
ESC: 25 amp brushless ESC
Battery: 3-cell 1250 to 2100mAh LiPo battery &

LiPo-compatible charger

™

2

INTRODUCTION..................................................................2

AMA.....................................................................................2

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS....................................................2

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE ..........................................3

Radio Equipment...........................................................3

Motor Recommendations ..............................................3

Propeller ........................................................................3

ESC ...............................................................................3

Battery Pack..................................................................3

Required Adhesive & Building Supplies........................4

Optional Supplies & Tools..............................................4

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES.........................................4

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS .................................4

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS..............................................5

METRIC CONVERSIONS....................................................5

KIT INSPECTION ................................................................6

KIT CONTENTS...................................................................6

PREPARATIONS .................................................................7

ASSEMBLE THE WING PANELS .......................................7

INST ALL THE WING P ANELS.............................................9

ASSEMBLE THE T AIL SECTION......................................10

INSTALL THE TAIL SERVOS & PUSHRODS ...................13

INSTALL THE LANDING GEAR ........................................14

MOUNT THE MOTOR........................................................15

In-runner Brushless Motor with 24mm Gear-Drive......15

Out-runner Brushless Motor........................................16

INSTALL THE RADIO & ESC............................................16

FINAL ASSEMBLY ............................................................19

Apply the Decals..........................................................20

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY ...................................20

Check the Control Directions.......................................20

Set the Control Throws................................................20

Balance the Model (C.G.) ............................................21

Balance the Model Laterally........................................21

PREFLIGHT.......................................................................22

Identify Your Model ......................................................22

Charge the Batteries ...................................................22

Balance Propellers ......................................................22

Range Check ...............................................................22

MOTOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS....................................22

LITHIUM BATTERY HANDLING & USAGE......................22

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)......................................23

CHECK LIST......................................................................23

FLYING...............................................................................24

Takeoff .........................................................................24

Flight............................................................................24

Landing........................................................................24

3D FLYING.........................................................................25

The E Performance Series YAK 54 EP 3D ARF is the
second release in a line of electric, built-up, all out
performance 3D planes.Just like Reactor EP, the YAK 54 EP
3D ARF can perform virtually any aerobatic maneuver with
authority.High-capacity LiPo battery packs will allow you the
convenience of electric flying, combined with the flight
characteristics of planes much larger in size, like the Great
Planes YAK 54 1.60 ARF. In addition to the flight
performance of a large 3D plane in a small package, the
beautiful trim scheme from the YAK 54 1.60 ARF has been
carried down to the YAK 54 EP 3D ARF.

For the latest technical updates or manual corrections to the
YAK 54 EP 3D ARF visit the Great Planes web site at
www.greatplanes.com. Open the “Airplanes” link, then
select the YAK 54 EP 3D ARF. If there is new technical
information or changes to this model a “tech notice” box will
appear in the upper left corner of the page.

We urge you to join the AMA (Academy of Model
Aeronautics) and a local R/C club.The AMA is the governing
body of model aviation and membership is required to fly at
AMA clubs.Though joining the AMA provides many benefits,
one of the primary reasons to join is liability protection.
Coverage is not limited to flying at contests or on the club
field. It even applies to flying at public demonstrations and
air shows. Failure to comply with the Safety Code (excerpts
printed in the back of the manual) may endanger insurance
coverage.Additionally, training programs and instructors are
available at AMA club sites to help you get started the right
way. There are over 2,500 AMA chartered clubs across the
country. Contact the AMA at the address or toll-free phone
number below.

IMPORTANT!!! T w o of the most important things you can do
to preserve the radio controlled aircraft hobby are to avoid
flying near full-scale aircraft and avoid flying near or over
groups of people.

1.Your YAK 54 EP 3D ARF should not be considered a toy,
but rather a sophisticated, working model that functions very
much like a full-size airplane. Because of its performance
capabilities, the YAK 54 EP 3D ARF, if not assembled and
operated correctly, could possibly cause injury to yourself or
spectators and damage to property.

2. You must assemble the model according to the
instructions. Do not alter or modify the model, as doing so
may result in an unsafe or unflyable model. In a few cases
the instructions may differ slightly from the photos.In those
instances the written instructions should be considered
as correct.

PRO TECT YOUR MODEL,Y OURSELF

& OTHERS...FOLLOW THESE

IMPORTANT SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Academy of Model Aeronautics

5151 East Memorial Drive

Muncie, IN 47302

Tele: [phone]

Fax [phone]

Or via the Internet at:

http://www.modelaircraft.org

AMA

INTRODUCTION

TABLE OF CONTENTS

3.You must take time to build straight, true and strong.

4.You must correctly install all R/C and other components so
that the model operates correctly on the ground and in the air .

5.You must check the operation of the model before every
flight to insure that all equipment is operating and that the
model has remained structurally sound. Be sure to check
clevises or other connectors often and replace them if they
show any signs of wear or fatigue.

6. If you are not an experienced pilot or have not flown this
type of model before, we recommend that you get the
assistance of an experienced pilot in your R/C club for your
first flights.If you’re not a member of a club, your local hobb y
shop has information about clubs in your area whose
membership includes experienced pilots.

7.While this kit has been flight tested to exceed normal use,
if the plane will be used for extremely high-stress flying,
such as racing, or if a motor larger than one in the
recommended range is used, the modeler is responsible for
taking steps to reinforce the high-stress points and/or
substituting hardware more suitable for the increased stress .

Remember:Take your time and follow the instructions to
end up with a well-built model that is straight and true.

This is a partial list of items required to finish the YAK 54 EP
3D ARF that may require planning or decision making before
starting to build. Order numbers are provided in parentheses.

A 4-channel radio system with four micro servos and a micro
receiver are required for this plane.The servos and receiver
shown in the manual are Futaba®S3110 micro servos and
the Futaba R114F micro receiver. Two 6" [150mm] servo
extensions and a Y-harness are also required. Order
numbers for these items are provided below.

• (4) Futaba S3110 Micro High Torque Servo
[7.7g] (FUTM0046)

• Futaba R114F FM Micro Receiver
(Low Band – FUTL0442, High Band – FUTL0443)

• Futaba FM Single Conversion Short Crystal
(Low Band – FUTL62**, High Band – FUTL63**)

• (2) Futaba C-25 Extension Slim Wire
6" [152mm] (FUTM4506)

• Futaba 6" [152mm] Dual Servo Extension
J (FUTM4130)

The YAK 54 EP 3D ARF comes with a mounting box that will
accommodate either a brushless in-runner motor with gear­drive or a brushless out-runner motor.The motors that have
been tested and perform well in this plane are listed below.
If using the in-runner motor with gear-drive, be sure to install
the 11T pinion that is included with the gear-drive to achieve
a gear ratio of 4.5:1.

• Great Planes Ammo™24-33-4040kV Brushless
In-runner Motor (GPMG5165)
Great Planes Gear-Drive 24mm Motors (GPMG0505)

• Great Planes RimFire™35-30-950kV Brushless
Out-runner Motor (GPMG4590)

Note: Motors from other manufacturers may work with the
YAK 54 EP 3D ARF. However, the included firewall pieces
are designed to work specifically with the Great Planes
motors listed.

If using the Ammo Brushless In-runner motor with 4.5:1
gearbox or the RimFire Brushless Out-runner motor, y ou will
need a 11x4.5 Slo-Flyer Electric Propeller (GPMQ6695).

A Brushless ESC (electronic speed control) is required for
this plane. We recommend using the Great Planes Silver
Series 25A Brushless ESC 5V/2A BEC (GPMM1820).

The YAK 54 EP 3D ARF has been tested with 11.1V LiPo
packs ranging from 1250mAh to 2100mAh. Order numbers
are provided for packs of this size. The lighter 1250mAh
pack is suggested for maximum performance. A 20C
discharge pack is necessary for best performance.

• Great Planes LiPo 1250mAh 11.1V 20C Discharge
w/Balance (GPMP0609)

• Great Planes LiPo 1500mAh 11.1V 20C Discharge
w/Balance (GPMP0613)

Battery Pack

ESC

Propeller

Motor Recommendations

Radio Equipment

DECISIONS YOU MUST MAKE

We, as the kit manuf acturer, provide you with a top quality ,
thoroughly tested kit and instructions, but ultimately the
quality and flyability of your finished model depends on
how you build it; therefore, we cannot in any way
guarantee the performance of your completed model, and
no representations are expressed or implied as to the
performance or safety of your completed model.

3

• Great Planes LiPo 2100mAh 11.1V 20C Discharge
w/Balance (GPMP0617)

Note: Do not use Great Planes LiPo 1500mAh 11.1V 3S 8C
Discharge (GPMP0831).This battery pack is not capable of
supporting the current draw of the recommended
power systems.

This is the list of adhesive and building supplies required to
finish the YAK 54 EP 3D ARF. Order numbers are provided
in parentheses.

❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Thin Pro

™

CA (GPMR6001)

❏ 1/2 oz. [15g] Medium Pro CA+ (GPMR6007)
❏ Pro 30-minute epoxy (GPMR6047)
❏ Denatured alcohol
❏ Drill bits: 5/64" [2mm], 1/8" [3mm]
❏ #1 Hobby knife (HCAR0105)
❏ #11 blades (5-pack, HCAR0211)
❏ Hobbico

®

Steel T-Pins 1" [25mm] (100, HCAR5100)

❏ Great Planes Pro Threadlocker (GPMR6060)
❏ Great Planes Double-Sided Servo Tape

1" [25mm] (GPMQ4442)

❏ CA applicator tips (HCAR3780)
❏ Small spring clamps
❏ 220-grit Sandpaper

Here is a list of optional tools mentioned in the manual that
will help you build the YAK 54 EP ARF.

❏ 21st Century

®

sealing iron (COVR2700)

❏ 21st Century iron cover (COVR2702)
❏ 2 oz. [57g] Spray CA activator (GPMR6035)
❏ 4 oz. [113g] Aerosol CA activator (GPMR634)
❏ CA debonder (GPMR6039)
❏ Epoxy brushes (6, GPMR8060)
❏ Mixing sticks (50, GPMR8055)
❏ Mixing cups (GPMR8056)
❏ Hobbico Duster

™

can of compressed air (HCAR5500)

❏ Panel Line Pen (TOPQ2510)
❏ Rotary tool such as Dremel

®

❏ Hobbico flexible 18" [457mm] ruler stainless

steel (HCAR0460)

• When you see the term

test fit

in the instructions, it
means that you should first position the part on the
assembly without using any glue, then slightly modify or

custom fit

the part as necessar y for the best fit.

• Whenever the term

glue

is written you should rely upon

your experience to decide what type of glue to use.When a

specific type of adhesive works best for that step, the
instructions will make a recommendation.

• Whenever just

epoxy

is specified you may use either
30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy or 6-minute epoxy. When
30-minute epoxy is specified it is highly recommended that
you use only 30-minute (or 45-minute) epoxy, because you
will need the working time and/or the additional strength.

•

Photos

and

sketches

are placed before the step they
refer to. Frequently you can study photos in following steps
to get another view of the same parts.

• The stabilizer and wing incidences and motor thrust
angles have been factory-built into this model. However,
some technically-minded modelers may wish to check these
measurements anyway.To vie w this inf ormation visit the web
site at www.greatplanes.com and click on “Technical Data.”
Due to manufacturing tolerances which will have little or no
effect on the way your model will fly, please expect slight
deviations between your model and the published values.

Replacement parts for the Great Planes YAK EP 3D ARF are
available using the order numbers in the Replacement Parts
List that follows.The fastest, most economical service can be
provided by your hobby dealer or mail-order company.

To locate a hobby dealer, visit the Hobbico web site at
www.hobbico.com. Choose “Where to Buy” at the bottom
of the menu on the left side of the page. Follow the
instructions provided on the page to locate a U.S., Canadian
or International dealer.

Parts may also be ordered directly from Hobby Services by
calling [phone], or via facsimile at [phone],
but full retail prices and shipping and handling charges will
apply. Illinois and Nevada residents will also be charged
sales tax. If order ing via fax, include a Visa®or MasterCard

®

number and expiration date for payment.
Mail parts orders and payments by personal check to:

Hobby Services

3002 N Apollo Drive, Suite 1

Champaign IL 61822

Be certain to specify the order number exactly as listed in
the Replacement Parts List. Payment by credit card or
personal check only; no C.O.D.

If additional assistance is required for any reason contact Product
Support by e-mail at [e-mail],
or by telephone at [phone].

ORDERING REPLACEMENT PARTS

IMPORTANT BUILDING NOTES

Optional Supplies & Tools

Required Adhesive & Building Supplies

4

Description How to Purchase

Missing pieces Contact Product Support
Instruction manual Contact Product Support
Full-size plans Not available
Kit parts listed below Hobby Supplier

Replacement Parts List

GPMA2945 ..........Wing Kit

GPMA2946 ..........Fuse Kit

GPMA2947 ..........Tail Set

GPMA2948 ..........Landing Gear

GPMA2949 ..........Wheel Pants

GPMA2950 ..........Cowl

GPMA2951 ..........Canopy

GPMA2952 ..........Hatch

GPMA2953 ..........Decal Sheet

GPMA2954 ..........Hardware Set

Fuse = Fuselage

Stab = Horizontal Stabilizer

Fin = Ver tical Fin

LE = Leading Edge
TE = Trailing Edge
LG = Landing Gear

Ply = Plywood

" = Inches

mm = Millimeters

ESC = Electronic Speed Control

SHCS = Socket Head Cap Screw

1" = 25.4mm (conversion factor)

METRIC CONVERSIONS

COMMON ABBREVIATIONS

5

1/64" = .4mm
1/32" = .8mm
1/16" = 1.6mm
3/32" = 2.4mm

1/8" = 3.2mm
5/32" = 4.0mm
3/16" = 4.8mm

1/4" = 6.4mm

3/8" = 9.5mm

1/2" = 12.7mm

5/8" = 15.9mm

3/4" = 19.0mm

1" = 25.4mm
2" = 50.8mm
3" = 76.2mm

6" = 152.4mm
12" = 304.8mm
18" = 457.2mm
21" = 533.4mm
24" = 609.6mm
30" = 762.0mm
36" = 914.4mm

6

Before starting to build, take an inventory of this kit to make sure it is complete, and inspect the parts to make sure they
are of acceptable quality. If any parts are missing or are not of acceptable quality, or if you need assistance with assembly,
contact Product Support. When repor ting defective or missing parts, use the part names exactly as they are written in
the Kit Contents list.

Great Planes Product Support

3002 N. Apollo Drive, Suite 1

Champaign, IL 61822

Telephone: [phone], ext. 5

Fax: [phone]

E-mail: [e-mail]

KIT INSPECTION

KIT CONTENTS

1

13

14

10

6

3

4

5

2

8

9

1. Cowl

2. Canopy

3. Fuselage

4. Cowl Ring

5. Hook & Loop Material

6. Landing Gear

7. Wheels (2)

8. Horizontal Stabilizer & Elevator Halves

9. Ver tical Fin & Rudder

10. Left Wing Panel

11. Spar Doubler

12. Right Wing Panel

13. Left Aileron

14. Right Aileron

12

Kit Contents

7

11

❏ 1. If you have not done so already, remove the major

parts of the kit from the box and inspect for damage. If any
parts are damaged or missing, contact Product Support at
the address or telephone number listed in the

“Kit

Inspection”

section on page 6.

❏ 2. Carefully remove the tape and separate all the control

surfaces. Use a covering iron with a covering sock on
low/medium heat to tighten the covering if necessary. Apply
pressure over sheeted areas to thoroughl ybond the covering
to the wood.

❏ 1. Use a sharp hobby knife to trim open the hinge slots in

the wing panels and ailerons.Test fit the pre-cut CA hinges
into the slots. If any are difficult to install, enlarge the slots
with your knife.

❏ 2. Inser t the CA hinges halfway into the slots in the wing

panels. Push small T-pins through the middle of the hinges
to keep them centered. Insert the ailerons onto the other
ends of the hinges. Align the outer tips of the ailerons flush
with the wing tips.Pull the ailerons away from the panels far
enough to confirm that the hinges remained perpendicular
with the hinge line. If not, use a hobby knife or small
screwdriver to nudge them straight.

❏ 3. When satisfied, carefully remove the T-pins from the

hinges. Use thin CA glue to secure the ailerons by applying
6 to 7 drops onto both sides of each hinge.

ASSEMBLE THE WING P ANELS

PREPARATIONS

7

❏ 4. Attach a 6" [150mm] servo extension to each aileron

servo and wrap the connection with heat-shrink tubing or
transparent tape.

❏ 5. Trim the covering from the aileron servo bays on the

undersides of the wing panels.

❏ 6.Insert the servo leads into the servo bays and pull them

through the wing ribs.The servos can be installed using the
hardware included with the servos or they can be glued in
place. If gluing the servos in place, slit or puncture the
covering just beneath the servo mounting tabs where they
will contact the wing. This will ensure that the servo will be
glued to the plywood servo bay, not just the covering. Glue
the aileron servos into the servo bays using epoxy or CA
glue with the servo splines facing the LE of the wings. After
the glue has cured, confirm that the servos are properly
secured to the wings and reinforce with extra glue if
necessary.

❏ 7. Locate two double-sided servo arms that fit the output

splines of your aileron servos and four adjustable clevises.

❏ 8. Temporarily connect your aileron servos and battery

pack to your radio and center the servos and trim levers on
the transmitter.Test fit the double-sided servo arms parallel
to the aileron hinge line.If the servo arm does not fit onto the
servo spline parallel to the hinge line, remove it from the
servo and rotate it 180°. Decide which way fits best (closest
to parallel) and cut off the arm that isn’t used. Be sure to
make a left and right servo arm.

❏ 9. Fit two adjustable clevises onto both 5/64" x 3-1/2"

[2mm x 90mm] aileron pushrods.Push one of the clevises
from each pushrod into the outer holes of the servo arms.

8

❏ 10. Locate the aileron double rib that has a rectangular

mounting block at the LE.Using the position of the pushrods
as a guide, cut a slot 3/8" [9.5mm] long perpendicular to the
hinge line just behind the bevel of the LE of the aileron for
each control horn in the center of the mounting block.The
slot only needs to be wide enough to accommodate the
thickness of the control horn backplate tab on the control
horn (approximately 1/16" [1.6mm] thick). Do not cut all the
way through the ailerons! 3/16" to 1/4" [5mm to 6mm] deep
is sufficient.

❏ 11. Trim the control horn backplate tabs to length so that

the control horns seat flat in the slots you made. Confirm
that the holes in the control horn are centered over the hinge
line. When satisfied, coat the backplate tabs with medium
CA and press them into the slots.

❏ 12. Use the position of the control horn to adjust the

length of the pushrods as needed. Remove the servo arms
from the aileron servos. Connect the other adjustable
clevises on the aileron pushrods to the control horns and
reattach the servo arms. Fine tune the length of the
pushrods inside the clevises so that the ailerons are in the
neutral position when the servo arms are parallel to the
hinge line.Lock the clevises onto the pushrods by threading
a 2mm x 4mm screw into each clevis scre w hole and tighten
carefully.The excess rod ends can be cut away.

❏ 1. Use medium or thick CA to glue the anti-rotation

dowels into the wing root ribs. The dowels should protrude

beyond the wing root ribs by 5/16" [8mm]. If the dowels are
slightly loose inside the holes in the wings, try to glue the
dowels as perpendicular to the root ribs as possible.

❏ 2. Before gluing, test fit both wing panels into the fuselage

to confirm a proper fit. The center spar extends into the
fuselage and interlocks with the spar of the other wing panel.

INST ALL THE WING P ANELS

9

❏ 3. Thoroughly coat the root ribs of the wing panels and

the wing pockets in the fuselage with 30-minute epoxy and
slide them into place. Do not put epoxy on the interlocking
spars at this time. Being sure that the wing panels are fully
seated into the wing pockets, use clamps to hold the
interlocking spar halves together while the epoxy on the root
ribs cures to ensure that the wings are glued straight in the
fuse. Clean up any excess epoxy with a paper towel
dampened with denatured alcohol.

❏ 4.Coat one side of each spar doubler with epoxy as well

as the front and back of the spar halves. Position one spar
doubler against the front of the spar halves and one against
the back. Use clamps to hold the spar doublers in place
while the epoxy cures.

❏ 1. Fit the vertical fin into place and use a felt-tip pen to

trace around the fin where it meets the fuse.Remove the fin
from the fuse and trim the covering away 1/16" [1.6mm]
below the line that you made. Be careful not to cut through
the wood as this will weaken it.See the following

Expert Tip

for removing covering.

❏ 2. Wipe away the lines you drew and glue the fin into place.

Use a straightedge to guide the soldering iron at a rate
that will just melt the covering and not burn into the wood.
The hotter the soldering iron, the faster it must travel to
melt a fine cut. Peel off the covering.

HOW TO CUT COVERING FROM BALSA

Use a soldering iron to cut the covering from the fin. The
tip of the soldering iron doesn’t have to be sharp, but a fine
tip does work best. Allow the iron to heat fully.

ASSEMBLE THE T AIL SECTION

10

❏ 3. The elevator halves should be positioned behind the

horizontal stabilizer so that there is a 1/16" [1.6mm] gap

between the ends of the stab and elevators.We cut a piece
of scrap wood 1" [25mm] long and put it between the
elevator halves as shown to properly space them apart.

❏ 4. Center the elevator joiner wire over the elevator halves

and mark its location near the LE of each elevator.

❏ 5. Using a #54 or 5/64" [2mm] bit, drill 7/8" [22mm] deep

holes at the marks you made through the LE of the
elevators .Use a hobby knif e to trim aw a y a bit of the be v eled
LE inside these marks. Test fit the elevator joiner into the
elevator halves.

❏ 6.Lay the elevators on y our work surface and confirm that

they both lay flat. If not, “tweak” or bend the elevator joiner
wire slightly until they do. Do not glue the joiner wire in

place at this time.

❏ 7. Carefully cut a slot for the elevator control horn on the

underside of the left elevator half. The slot should be 1/2"
[13mm] from the inside edge and 3/8" [9.5mm] long.Test fit
the control horn into the slot, being sure that the control horn
holes are positioned over the hinge line.

❏ 8. Trim the covering from the tail of the fuselage for the

horizontal stabilizer. Inser t the elevator joiner wire into the
back of the stab slot.

❏ 9. Position the horizontal stabilizer into the stab saddle,

centering it left and right and making it square to the wings.
Mark the outline where the stab meets the fuse as you did

11

with the vertical fin and remove the covering inside your
marks. Reposition the stab into the fuse and stand back
several feet behind the model and view it from the rear.
Confirm that the stabilizer is parallel with the wing panels. If
not, use tape or a weight to straighten it. Thin CA glue or
epoxy can be used to glue the stabilizer in place.

❏ 10. Use a hobby knife to cut open the hinge slots in the

elevators and horizontal stabilizer. Before gluing, roughen
the elevator joiner wire with sandpaper and clean it off with
alcohol. Prepare the elevators by inserting a CA hinge into
each hinge slot. Use T-pins to keep the hinges centered. Put
a light coating of epoxy or thick CA onto the ends of the
elevator joiner wire. Install the elevators onto the joiner wire
while fitting the CA hinges into their mating slots in the
horizontal stabilizer. As you did with the ailerons, use thin
CA to glue the hinges.

❏ 11. Cut a slot for the rudder control horn 1-1/2" [38mm]

from the bottom of the rudder. Test fit the control horn into
the slot, being sure that the control horn holes are
positioned over the hinge line. Attach the rudder to the
fuselage and fin using three CA hinges.

❏ 12. Insert a control horn into the slot on the underside of the

left elevator. Press a control horn backplate onto the control
horn tab on top of the elevator. Apply a few drops of CA glue
to the control horn and backplate to secure them in place.The
control horn tab can be trimmed flush with the backplate.

❏ 13. Attach a control horn to the right side of the rudder in

the same manner.

12

❏ 1.T rim the covering from the f orward lightening hole in the

cockpit floor as shown. Also trim the covering from the
pushrod exit slots on both sides of the fuselage.

❏ 2. Glue or install the elevator and rudder servos with the

screws included with the radio system to the servo tray with
the splines facing forward. Use your radio system to center
the servos.

❏ 3. Attach adjustable clevises to the elevator and rudder

control horns in the second hole as shown.

❏ 4. As you did with the ailerons, test fit the double-sided

servo arms perpendicular to the ser vo cases. If the servo
arm does not fit onto the servo spline perpendicular to the
servo case, remove it from the servo and rotate it 180°.
Decide which way fits best (closest to perpendicular) and cut
off the arm that isn’t used. Attach an adjustable clevis to the
outer holes of both arms and attach the arms to the ser vos
(in the directions shown) with the servo arm screws .

❏ 5. Slide the 5/64" x 18" [2mm x 462mm] elevator pushrod

through the pushrod exit slot in the fuselage.Be sure that the
pushrod passes through the pushrod holes in the fuselage
formers. Insert the forward end into the clevis attached to the
elevator servo, and the aft end into the clevis attached to the
elevator control horn. Use a small clamp or tape to hold the
elevator in the neutral position.Glue the pushrod to the clevis

INST ALL THE T AIL SERV OS &

PUSHRODS

13

in the servo arm using thin CA. (Do not glue the clevis to the
servo arm!). Confirm that your servo arm is still perpendicular
to the servo case.Install a 2mm x 4mm sheet metal screw into
the clevis on the elevator control horn and carefully tighten it
down. Cut off the excess pushrod beyond the clevises.

❏ 6. Repeat step 5 for the rudder pushrod using the 5/64" x

19" [2mm x 490mm] carbon rod.

❏ 1. Trim the covering from the landing gear slots in

the fuselage.

❏ 2. Measure and mark 1-9/16" [40mm] from the front and

1/4" [6mm] from the bottom of the wheel pants. Drill a 1/8"
[3mm] hole at your marks on each side of both wheel pants.
Accuracy during this step will ensure that your wheels are
positioned straight inside the pants. When drilling the hole,
make a pilot hole with a smaller bit first, then enlarge the
hole to the correct diameter.

❏ 3. Fit the 3mm x 25mm machine screw (axle) through the

hole in the landing gear and through the inside hole in the
pant.Thread a 3mm nut onto the screw f ollo w ed by a wheel.
Apply a drop of thread-locking compound near the base of
the screw and finish tightening the nut. Thread another nut
onto the screw against the wheel, but still allowing the wheel
to rotate freely on the axle. Secure this nut with thread­locking compound. The end of the axle screw will pass
through the outside hole in the pant.

❏ 4. Attach the landing gear to the fuselage using four 3mm

x 8mm machine screws, four 3mm washers, and thread­locking compound.

❏ 5. Glue the tail skid to the underside of the fuselage 1/4"

[6mm] from the aft end. The longest side of the skid goes
against the fuselage.Be sure to remove the covering from the
fuselage where the skid will be glued before you attach it.

INSTALL THE LANDING GEAR

14

The Yak 54 EP ARF includes motor mount parts for both the
Great Planes brushless C35-30-950 out-runner motor and
the brushless B24-33-4040 in-runner equipped with the
Great Planes 24mm gear drive.Other motors may be able to
be installed; however, modification to one of the mounting
box firewalls would be necessary to suit the size and mount
pattern of your equipment.

❏ 1. Locate the four pieces that make up the motor

mounting box. Attach the front piece to the motor gearbox

using three 3mm x 6mm machine screws (included with
gearbox), three 3mm washers, and thread-locking
compound. Assemble the box as shown with medium CA
glue (the longer side piece being on the left of the box).The
front piece is installed in the forward slots.

❏ 2. Slide the assembly over the box already attached to the

fuselage.Trace around the motor onto the fuselage. This area
will need to be cut away in order for the motor to fit through.

❏ 3. When satisfied, thoroughly glue the mounting box

assembly to the fuselage, being sure that the box is flat
against the fuselage firewall.

In-runner Brushless Motor with

24mm Gear Drive

MOUNT THE MOTOR

15

❏ 1. Locate the four pieces that make up the motor

mounting box and the four blind nut doublers.Install 3mm

blind nuts into each of the four blind nut doublers. Glue the
doublers to the back of the front piece of the mounting box.
The holes in the front piece are slightly off-center to
accommodate the motor right thrust. When gluing the
doublers to the front piece, be sure that the blind nuts are
closer to right side when the mounting box is glued together.
Assemble the box as shown with medium CA glue (the

longer side piece being on the left of the box). The front
piece is installed in the aft slots.

❏ 2. Attach the aluminum adapter to the back of the out-

runner using the screws supplied with the motor.Attach the
motor to the mounting box with four 3mm x 6mm machine
screws, four 3mm washers, and thread-locking compound.

❏ 3. Thoroughly glue the mounting box assembly to the

fuselage by sliding it on the box already attached to the
fuselage. Be sure that the box is flat against the
fuselage firewall.

❏ 1. The ESC and receiver will be secured inside the plane

with double-sided servo tape (not included). For better
adhesion of the tape, brush on a light coating of epoxy to the
fuselage former above the landing gear and the back of the
wing spar as shown.

INSTALL THE RADIO & ESC

Out-runner Brushless Motor

16

❏ 2. Connect the servo leads to the receiver.If you are using

a 4-channel receiver , you will also need a dual servo e xtension
or Y-harness for the aileron servos. Feed the motor leads on
your ESC through the bottom of the firewall mounting box.
Connect the ESC to the motor and to the receiver.

❏ 3. Cut pieces of double-sided servo tape (not included) to

secure the receiver and ESC where you applied epoxy in
step #1.

❏ 4. Route the receiver antenna out of the battery hatch and

down the underside of the fuselage.Use clear tape to hold the

antenna in place. For a cleaner look, we ran the receiver
antenna through the inside of the fuselage to the back. The
antenna exits from a small hole drilled in the location shown.

❏ 5. Make a battery strap out of the supplied hook and loop

material 8" [200mm] long by overlapping two pieces and
cutting it to length. Feed it through the battery tray in the
location shown.The battery strap can be glued to the batter y
tray with medium CA to keep it in place.

❏ 6. Test fit your battery into place and adjust the battery

strap as necessary.When you balance the model, the exact
position of the battery pack will be determined. When you
know where the pack will need to be to balance the airplane,
mark its position onto the battery tray and put a piece of
adhesive-backed hook and loop material onto the pack and
battery tray to help hold it in place during flight.

17

❏ 7.Install two 2.4mm x 8mm flat head self-tapping screws into

the pre-drilled holes in the battery hatch blocks. Glue two
magnets into the battery hatch with medium CA as shown.

❏ 8. Locate the two plywood battery hatch retainers. Glue

the two pieces together using CA. Draw a line on the back
former of the battery hatch that continues the shape of the
lightening hole arc across the webbing.Glue the battery hatch
retainer to the back former as shown at the line you drew.

❏ 9. Trim the covering between the spars at the back of the

battery hatch for cool air exits.

❏ 10. Test fit the battery hatch onto the fuselage. Adjust the

height of the flat head screws in the battery hatch blocks
until the hatch attaches to the fuselage securely. When
satisfied, apply a couple drops of thin CA glue to the
exposed threads of the screws.

18

❏ 1.Prepare the inside of the cowlby lightly scuffing it with 220-

grit sandpaper.When satisfied, clean the inside with alcohol.

❏ 2. Glue the three plywood magnet back pieces to the

cowl ring.Glue a magnet into each of the three holes in the
cowl ring by coating the insides of the holes with medium
CA. A light skin coating of thin CA over the magnets that
overlaps onto the cowl ring will help secure the magnets in
place. Let the CA glue cure without accelerator.

❏ 3. Glue three magnets into the holes in the fuselage as

shown. Be sure that the magnets are glued with the
correct polarity facing out! The magnets in the fuselage
must be attracted to the magnets in the cowl ring. As

you did with the cowl ring, apply a light skin coating of thin
CA over the magnets after they have been glued into the
fuselage. Let the CA cure without accelerator.

❏ 4. Magnetically attach the cowl ring onto the fuselage.

Slide the cowl over the cowl ring and onto the fuselage.
Confirm that the spinner backplate properly fits your motor
shaft. If not, ream or drill it to the correct diameter.
Temporarily install the spinner backplate onto the prop shaft.
Adjust the position of the cowl on the fuselage so that the
colors line up with the stripes on the fuselage. The spinner
backplate should be centered in the front cowl opening, and
the backplate should be approximately 3/32" [2.4mm]
beyond the front of the cowl. When satisfied, tack glue the
cowl to the cowl ring in three or four spots by reaching
through the front opening in the cowl. A CA applicator tip is
very useful in this step.

❏ 5.Remove the cowl (and cowl ring) from the fuselage and

apply a fillet of medium or thick CA glue along the front of
the cowl ring where it touches the cowl.

FINAL ASSEMBLY

19

❏ 6. Reattach the cowl to the fuselage. Install the propeller,

prop washer, and prop nut onto the prop shaft. Install the
spinner cone using the included spinner screws.

❏ 7. Finish up the assembly by taping the canopy in

position. Clear tape works fine for this.

1.Use scissors or a sharp hobby knife to cut the decals from
the sheet.

2. Be certain the model is clean and free from oily fingerprints
and dust. Prepare a dishpan or small bucket with a mixture of
liquid dish soap and warm water-about one teaspoon of soap
per gallon of water.Submerse the decal in the soap and water
and peel off the paper backing.Note: Even though the decals
have a “sticky-back” and are not the water transfer type,
submersing them in soap and water allows accurate
positioning and reduces air bubbles underneath.

3. Position decal on the model where desired. Holding the
decal down, use a paper towel to wipe most of the water a wa y.

4. Use a piece of soft balsa or something similar to
squeegee remaining water from under the decal. Apply the
rest of the decals the same way.

❏ 1. Turn on the transmitter and receiver and center the

trims. If necessary, remove the servo arms from the servos
and reposition them so they are centered. Reinstall the
screws that hold on the servo arms.

❏ 2. With the transmitter and receiver still on, check all the

control surfaces to see if they are centered.If necessary, adjust
the clevises on the pushrods to center the control surfaces.

❏ 3. Make certain that the control surfaces and the throttle

respond in the correct direction as shown in the diagram. If
any of the controls respond in the wrong direction, use the
servo reversing in the transmitter to reverse the servos
connected to those controls. Be certain the control surfaces
have remained centered.Adjust if necessary.

Use a Great Planes AccuThrow (or a ruler) to accurately
measure and set the control throw of each control surface as
indicated in the chart that follows.If your radio does not hav e
dual rates, we recommend setting the throws for your first
few flights at the low rate setting.

Note: The throws are measured at the widest part of the
elevators, rudder and ailerons.

Set the Control Throws

Check the Control Directions

GET THE MODEL READY TO FLY

Apply the Decals

20

4-CHANNEL RADIO SETUP

(STANDARD MODE 2)

4-CHANNEL

ELEVATOR MOVES UP

RIGHT AILERON MOVES UP

LEFT AILERON MOVES DOWN

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

RUDDER MOVES RIGHT

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

4-CHANNEL

TRANSMITTER

FULL THROTTLE

At this stage the model should be in ready-to-fly condition
with all of the systems in place including the motor, landing
gear, battery pack, and the radio system.

❏ 1.Use a felt-tip pen or 1/8" [3mm]-wide tape to accurately

mark the C.G. on the top of the wing on both sides of the
fuselage. The C.G. is located 3-1/8" [79mm] back from the
LE of the wing.

❏ 2. With all par ts of the model installed (ready to fly) and

the battery pack installed, place the model upside-down on
a Great Planes CG Machine™, or lift it at the balance point
you marked .

❏ 3.If the tail drops, the model is “tail heavy”and the battery

pack and/or receiver must be shifted to balance. If the nose
drops, the model is “nose heavy” and the battery pack
and/or receiver must be shifted aft to balance. If possible,
move the battery pack and receiver to minimize or eliminate
any additional ballast required.

❏ 4. IMPORTANT: If you found it necessary to move the

battery pack or receiver for the Yak 54 EP ARF to balance,
recheck the C.G.after this has been done.

❏ 1. With the wing level, have an assistant help you lift the

model by the motor propeller shaft and the bottom of the
fuse under the TE of the fin.Do this several times.

❏ 2. If one wing always drops when you lift the model, it means

that side is heavy. Balance the airplane by adding weight to the
other wing tip. An airplane that has been laterally balanced

will track better in loops and other maneuvers.

Balance the Model Laterally

This is where your model should balance for the first
flights. Later, you may wish to experiment by shifting the
C.G. up to 1/2" [13mm] forward or 1/2" [13mm] back to
change the flying characteristics. Moving the C.G. forward
may improve the smoothness and stability, but the model
may then require more speed for tak eoff and mak e it more
difficult to slow for landing.Moving the C.G.aft makes the
model more maneuverable, but could also cause it to
become too difficult to control. In any case, start at the
recommended balance point and do not at any time
balance the model outside the specified range.

More than any other factor, the C.G. (balance point) can
have the greatest effect on how a model flies, and may
determine whether or not your first flight will be
successful. If you value this model and wish to enjoy it for
many flights, DO NOT OVERLOOK THIS IMPORTANT
PROCEDURE. A model that is not proper ly balanced will
be unstable and possibly unflyable.

Balance the Model (C.G.)

IMPORTANT: The Yak 54 EP ARF has been extensively

flown and tested to arrive at the throws at which it flies
best. Flying your model at these throws will provide you
with the greatest chance for successful first flights.If, after
you have become accustomed to the way the Yak 54 EP
ARF flies, you would like to change the throws to suit your
taste, that is fine. However, too much control throw could
make the model difficult to control, so remember, “more is
not always better.”

These are the recommended control surface throws:

High Rate Low Rate

ELEVATOR: 1-1/8" [28mm] up 5/8" [16mm] up

1-1/8" [28mm] down 5/8" [16mm] down

RUDDER: 2-1/2" [64mm] right 1-1/4" [32mm] right

2-1/2" [64mm] left 1-1/4" [32mm] left

AILERONS: 7/8" [22mm] up 1/2" [13mm] up

7/8" [22mm] down 1/2" [13mm] down

3D RATES

3D ELEVATOR: 2" [51mm] up

2" [51mm] down

3D RUDDER: 3-1/2" [89mm] right

3-1/2" [89mm] left

3D AILERONS: 1-1/2" [38mm] up

1-1/2" [38mm] down

21

No matter if you fly at an AMA sanctioned R/C club site or if you
fly somewhere on your own, y ou should always ha ve your name,
address, telephone number and AMA number on or inside your
model. It is required at all AMA R/C club flying sites and AMA
sanctioned flying events .Fill out the identification tag on page 27
and place it on or inside your model.

Follow the battery charging instructions that came with your
radio control system to charge the batteries.You should always
charge your transmitter battery the night before you go flying,
and at other times as recommended by the radio manuf acturer.

Carefully balance your propeller and spare propellers before
you fly. An unbalanced prop can be the single most
significant cause of vibration that can damage your model.
Not only will motor mounting screws and bolts loosen,
possibly with disastrous effect, but vibration may also
damage your radio receiver and battery.

We use a Top Flite Precision Magnetic Prop Balancer

™

(TOPQ5700) in the workshop and keep a Great Planes
Fingertip Prop Balancer (GPMQ5000) in our flight box.

Ground check the operational range of your r adio before the
first flight of the day. With the transmitter antenna collapsed
and the receiver and transmitter on, you should be able to
walk at least 100 feet away from the model and still have
control. Have an assistant stand by your model and, while
you work the controls, tell you what the control surfaces are
doing. Repeat this test with the motor running at various
speeds with an assistant holding the model, using hand
signals to show you what is happening. If the control
surfaces do not respond correctly, do not fly! Find and
correct the problem first.Look for loose servo connections or
broken wires, corroded wires on old servo connectors, poor
solder joints in your battery pack or a defective cell, or a
damaged receiver crystal from a previous crash.

Get help from an experienced pilot when learning to operate
electric motors.

Use safety glasses when running electric motors.
Do not operate the motor in an area of loose gravel or sand;

the propeller may throw such material in your face or eyes.
Keep your face and body as well as all spectators away from

the plane of rotation of the propeller as you operate the motor.
Keep these items away from the prop: loose clothing, shir t

sleeves, ties, scarfs, long hair or loose objects such as
pencils or screwdrivers that may fall out of shirt or jacket
pockets into the prop.

The motor gets hot! Do not touch it during or right
after operation.

WARNING!! Read the entire instruction sheet included
with your battery. Failure to follow all instructions could
cause permanent damage to the battery and its
surroundings, and cause bodily harm!

• ONLY use a LiPo approved charger. NEVER use a
NiCd/NiMH peak charger!

• NEVER charge in excess of 4.20V per cell.

• ONLY charge through the “charge” lead. NEVER charge
through the “discharge” lead.

• NEVER charge at currents greater than 1C.

LITHIUM BATTER Y HANDLING & USAGE

Failure to follow these safety precautions may result
in severe injury to yourself and others.

MOTOR SAFETY PRECAUTIONS

Range Check

Balance the Propellers

CAUTION: Unless the instructions that came with your

radio system state differently, the initial charge on new
transmitter batteries should be done for 15 hours using
the slow-charger that came with the radio system.This
will “condition” the batter ies so that the next charge may
be done using the fast-charger of your choice.If the initial
charge is done with a fast-charger the batteries may not
reach their full capacity and you may be flying with
batteries that are only partially charged.

Charge the Batteries

Identify Y our Model

PREFLIGHT

22

• ALWAYS set charger’s output volts to match battery volts.

• ALWAYS charge in a fireproof location.

• NEVER trickle charge.

• NEVER allow the battery temperature to exceed 150° F
[65° C].

• NEVER disassemble or modify pack wiring in any wa y or
puncture cells.

• NEVER discharge below 2.5V per cell.

• NEVER place on combustible materials or leave
unattended during charge or discharge.

• ALWAYS KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHILDREN.

Read and abide by the following excerpts from the Academy
of Model Aeronautics Safety Code.For the complete Safety
Code refer to

Model Aviation

magazine, the AMA web site or

the Code that came with your AMA license.

1) I will not fly my model aircraft in sanctioned events, air

shows, or model flying demonstrations until it has been
proven to be airworthy by having been previously,
successfully flight tested.

2) I will not fly my model aircraft higher than approximately

400 feet within 3 miles of an airport without notifying the
airport operator.I will give right-of-way and avoid flying in the
proximity of full-scale aircraft.Where necessary, an observer
shall be utilized to supervise flying to avoid having models
fly in the proximity of full-scale aircraft.

3) Where established, I will abide by the safety rules for the

flying site I use, and I will not willfully and deliberately fly my
models in a careless, reckless and/or dangerous manner.

5) I will not fly my model unless it is identified with my name

and address or AMA number, on or in the model.Note: This
does not apply to models while being flown indoors.

7) I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any device

that explodes, burns, or propels a projectile of any kind).

1) I will have completed a successful radio equipment ground

check before the first flight of a new or repaired model.

2) I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence of

spectators until I become a qualified flier, unless assisted b y
an experienced helper.

3) At all flying sites a straight or curved line(s) must be

established in front of which all flying takes place with the
other side for spectators.Only personnel involv ed with flying

the aircraft are allowed at or in the front of the flight line.
Intentional flying behind the flight line is prohibited.

4) I will operate my model using only radio control frequencies
currently allowed by the F ederal Communications Commission.

5) I will not knowingly operate my model within three

miles of any pre-existing flying site except in
accordance with the frequency sharing agreement
listed (in the complete AMA Safety Code).

9) Under no circumstances may a pilot or other person touch
a powered model in flight; nor should any part of the

model other than the landing gear, intentionally touch
the ground, except while landing.

❏ 1. Check the C.G. according to the measurements

provided in the manual.

❏ 2. Be certain the battery and receiver are securely

mounted in the fuse. Simply stuffing them into place
with foam rubber is not sufficient.

❏ 3. Extend your receiver antenna and make sure it has a

strain relief inside the fuselage to keep tension off the
solder joint inside the receiver.

❏ 4. Balance your model

laterally

as explained in

the instructions.

❏ 5. Add a drop of oil to the axles so the wheels will turn freely.
❏ 6. Make sure all hinges are securely glued in place.
❏ 7. Confirm that all controls operate in the correct direction

and the throws are set up according to the manual.

❏ 8. Make sure that all servo arms are secured to the

servos with the screws included with your radio.

❏ 9. Secure connections between servo wires and

Y-connectors or servo extensions, and the connection
between your battery pack and the on/off switch with
vinyl tape, heat-shrink tubing or special clips suitable
for that purpose.

❏ 10. Balance your propeller (and spare propellers).
❏ 11. Tighten the propeller nut and spinner.
❏ 12.Place your name, address, AMA number and

telephone number on or inside your model.

❏ 13. If you wish to photograph your model, do so before

your first flight.

❏ 14. Range check your radio when you get to the flying field.

During the last few moments of preparation your mind may
be elsewhere anticipating the excitement of the first flight.
Because of this, you may be more likely to overlook certain
checks and procedures that should be performed before the
model is flown.To help avoid this, a check list is provided to
make sure these important areas are not overlooked. Many
are covered in the instruction manual, so where appropriate,
refer to the manual for complete instructions. Be sure to
check the items off as they are completed.

CHECK LIST

Radio Control

General

AMA SAFETY CODE (excerpts)

23

The Yak 54 EP ARF is a great-flying model that flies
smoothly and predictably. The Yak 54 EP ARF does not,
however, possess the self-recovery characteristics of a
primary R/C trainer and should be flown only by experienced
R/C pilots.

If you have access to a smooth, paved runway, we suggest
using it to takeoff, especially f or the first f ew flights .Position the
Yak 54 EP ARF onto the runway pointed into the wind.Slowly
advance the throttle stick to half throttle leaving the elevator in
the neutral position. As the tail rises off the ground, slowly
increase throttle and apply a bit of up elevator to lift the model
into the air. As you become accustomed to the takeoff
characteristics of the Yak 54 EP ARF, they can be performed
quickly, only requiring five to ten feet of runway until the model
is airborne.

If you do not have access to a smooth runwa y, the Yak 54 EP
ARF can be hand launched. For the first flight, it is a good
idea to have someone launch the airplane for you. This
allows you to keep your hands on the radio sticks and
correct any trim problems that are present.

Have the person launching the Yak 54 EP ARF hold the plane
by the fuselage just below the canopy.Throttle up to full power,
and have your helper give the plane a gentle underhanded
toss at about 30° angle upward into the wind.The high thrust

to weight ratio will allow the plane to accelerate to flying speed
almost instantly. Climb to a comfortable altitude and throttle
back to a lower power setting.

For reassurance and to keep an eye on other traffic, it is a
good idea to have an assistant on the flight line with you.Tell
him to remind you to throttle back once the plane gets to a
comfortable altitude.While full throttle is usually desirable for
takeoff, most models fly more smoothly at reduced speeds.

Take it easy with the Yak 54 EP ARF for the first few flights,
gradually getting acquainted with it as you gain confidence.
Adjust the trims to maintain straight and level flight. After
flying around for a while, and while still at a saf e altitude with
plenty of battery charge, practice slow flight and execute
practice landing approaches by reducing the throttle to see
how the model handles at slower speeds.Add power to see
how she climbs as well. Continue to fly around, executing
various maneuvers and making mental notes (or having
your assistant write them down) of what trim or C.G.
changes may be required to fine tune the model so it flies
the way you like.

To initiate a landing approach, lower the throttle while on the
downwind leg. Allow the nose of the model to pitch
downward to gradually bleed off altitude. Continue to lose
altitude, but maintain airspeed by k eeping the nose down as
you turn onto the crosswind leg.Make your final turn toward
the runway (into the wind) keeping the nose down to
maintain airspeed and control. Level the attitude when the
model reaches the runway threshold, modulating the throttle
as necessary to maintain your glide path and airspeed. If
you are going to overshoot, smoothly advance the throttle
(always ready on the right rudder to counteract torque) and
climb out to make another attempt. When you’re ready to
make your landing flare and the model is a foot or so off the
deck, smoothly increase up elevator until it gently touches
down. Once the model is on the runway and has lost flying
speed, hold up elevator to place the tail on the ground,
regaining tail wheel control.

One final note about flying your model. Have a goal or flight
plan in mind for every flight. This can be learning a new
maneuver(s), improving a maneuver(s) y ou already kno w, or
learning how the model behaves in certain conditions (such
as on high or low rates). This is not necessarily to improve
your skills

(though it is never a bad idea!),

but more
importantly so you do not surprise yourself by impulsively
attempting a maneuver and suddenly finding that you’v e run
out of time, altitude or airspeed. Every maneuver should be
deliberate, not impulsive.For example, if you’re going to do
a loop, check your altitude, mind the wind direction
(anticipating rudder corrections that will be required to
maintain heading), remember to throttle back at the top, and

Landing

Flight

Takeoff

CAUTION (THIS APPLIES TO ALL R/C AIRPLANES): If,

while flying, you notice an alarming or unusual sound
such as a low-pitched “buzz,” this may indicate control
surface

flutter

.Flutter occurs when a control surface (such
as an aileron or elevator) or a flying surface (such as a
wing or stab) rapidly vibrates up and down (thus causing
the noise). In extreme cases, if not detected immediately,
flutter can actually cause the control surface to detach or
the flying surface to fail, thus causing loss of control
followed by an impending crash. The best thing to do
when flutter is detected is to slow the model immediately
by reducing power, then land as soon as safely possible.
Identify which surface fluttered (so the problem may be
resolved) by checking all the servo grommets for
deterioration or signs of vibration. Make certain all
pushrod linkages are secure and free of play. If it fluttered
once, under similar circumstances it will probably flutter
again unless the problem is fixed.Some things which can
cause flutter are; Excessive hinge gap; Not mounting
control horns solidly; Poor fit of clevis pin in horn; Side­play of wire pushrods caused by large bends; Excessive
free play in servo gears; Insecure servo mounting; and
one of the most prevalent causes of flutter;Flying an over­powered model at excessive speeds.

FLYING

24

make certain you are on the desired rates (high/low rates).
A flight plan greatly reduces the chances of crashing your
model just because of poor planning and impulsive moves.

Remember to think.

Because of the power to weight ratio on 3D planes, straight
and level flight should be at a reduced throttle and full po wer
should only be used when the airplane is “loaded” during a
maneuver. Learn to manage the throttle and experiment
while in the maneuver .The power needed will depend on the
maneuver being performed. C.G. also plays a large role in
the 3D capability of models as well. Experiment a little, but
keep in mind that being tail heavy is not always the best way
to go.

Propeller thrust and thrust vectoring need to be considered
for 3D aerobatics.A large diameter prop with a low pitch will
provide a lot of pull for the aircraft but will not offer enough
air moving across the tail surfaces (thrust vectoring) for 3D.
Due to the large number of factors involved, some
experimentation will be necessary to find the right propeller
pitch and diameter for your model. If you feel that the
effectiveness of the tail surfaces is not enough, try a smaller
propeller with a higher pitch.

Another thing to remember is that maximum control throw is
not necessary for all 3D maneuvers.Occasionally, too much
throw can place the model too far into a stall causing the
model to become uncontrollable. Practice your maneuvers
at a higher altitude while you become accustomed to your
particular plane’s stall characteristics.

With the model pointing straight up (almost in a hover), push
full down elevator and full throttle. As the model rotates and
begins to point downwards, reduce the throttle (to keep the
model from being pulled downwards). As the model flattens
out, add power back in to pull the model around. A lot of
models will require a little bit of rudder correction (usually

right rudder) during this maneuver.Some planes will require
a little aileron correction to keep the wings level as well.

Pull the nose up slightly and slowly decrease power. As the
model slows down to a fe w mph, slo wly add in full left rudder
and power. Next, start adding in up elevator as needed to
keep the model flat in the spin. Most air planes will require
some aileron as well to keep the wings level.This is one of
the maneuvers to experiment on;try different C.G. positions
and different amounts of throw and pow er to see how flat the
spin will go. It is possible to get the flat spin without falling
and it is also possible to climb during the spin.

This is the same as the up-right flat spin except most planes
like to spin in the opposite direction, for example: right
rudder and down elevator.

Fly straight across the field at a moderate speed and simply
pull full up until vertical. Adjust the power as necessary to
maintain a hover.

This is an impressive looking maneuver that really isn’t as
difficult as it looks.(Before learning this maneuver you must be
able to confidently Snap and Tumble your plane and stop the
aircraft exactly, without over rotating.) Fly the model Knife Edge
from the right at full throttle so the model has reasonable
airspeed, using just enough rudder to maintain Knife Edge, not
climbing or diving. Perform one full right negative Tumble by
maintaining your rudder setting while applying full throttle, full
down elevator, and full right aileron, releasing in time to end
again flying Knife Edge to the right.Note that you may need to
use some positive elevator and/or left aileron to stop the
Tumble at exactly Knife Edge.This maneuver is easier to the
right because torque helps stop the Tumble and it can be done
at varied airspeeds with proper throttle and rudder modulation.

Knife Edge Tumble

The Wall

Inverted Flat Spins

Upright Flat Spins

Waterfalls

3D FLYING

25

Fly a straight pass across the field at 75 feet high and 100 f eet
out and pull the model vertical. Roll the model until the top of it
is facing you and slowly begin to reduce power. As the model
begins to slow down to 10 mph or so, slowly add a little bit of
power back in.You will have to adjust the throttle as needed,
but make your adjustments smooth.Some right aileron may be
needed to keep the model from torque rolling. Use the rudder
and elevator to keep the nose pointing straight up. Be patient
as this maneuver will take a while to learn.

This is the same as the vertical hover but without the use of
right aileron to keep the model from rolling. If needed, you
can use a little left aileron to speed the roll up.As the model
rotates around, the controls will appear to be reversed to
you but only the orientation of the model has changed.

The harrier is nothing more than a high angle of attack flying
stall. Check the stall characteristics of your plane before
proceeding with this maneuver. Bring your plane across the
field at 75 feet high and 100 feet out a wa y from yourself .Slowly
pull back on the elevator while reducing throttle. The nose of
the plane should come up.Depending on the plane/setup, you
may have to make constant aileron (wing walking) and rudder
corrections for this maneuver. As the nose of the plane comes
up, start adding in a little bit of power to help maintain airspeed.

The rudder is now used to turn the model. This maneuver will
take some practice as there are a lot of small corrections made
to keep most planes in the maneuver.

This is one maneuver where less control is needed. Too
much elevator and the model goes into an uncontrollable
stall. The C.G. of the plane will have a large effect on the
stability of the model during this maneuver. Some planes
perform better with more elevator deflection and a farther
forward C.G. while other planes prefer a further aft C.G. and
less elevator deflection.Elevator to flap mixing can be used
on airplanes with marginal wing area, and some planes
won’t stall so elevator to spolieron mixing will be needed.

Once you get comfortable with the up-right harrier, it’s time
to work rolls into the mix.From an up-right harrier, add in left
aileron and change from up elevator to down elevator when
inverted.If you are comfortable with four point rolls and slow
rolls, inputting rudder on the knife edges can improve the
maneuver considerably. To tur n the model, simply input the
elevator or rudder a little earlier. It’s all a matter of timing.

Climb vertically and bring the model to a hanger, but do not
stop long enough to let the torque pull the model around
(climbing or sliding slightly will not be noticeable to spectators
but will keep air flowing over the ailerons and provide you roll
authority to stop the torque).When the model is hanging, rock
the plane left with rudder, then apply full throttle and full right
rudder and hold both, completing 3/4s of a VERY tight Knife
Edge Loop and flying out Knife Edge. When done correctly,
the plane pivots around the wing tip in a very small area.This
maneuver can be done either direction.

Pinwheel

Rolling Harrier

Harrier

Torque Roll

Vertical Hover

26

Have a ball! But always stay in control and fly in a safe
manner.

GOOD LUCK AND GREAT FLYING!

Make a copy of this identification tag and put it on or
inside your model.

27

BUILDING NOTES

Kit Purchased Date: _______________________

Where Purchased: _________________________

Date Construction Started: __________________

Date Construction Finished: _________________

Finished Weight: __________________________

Date of First Flight: ________________________

FLIGHT LOG